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Georgia Armenia Bicycle Tour
  • Where's Woully Wandering.
  • Where's Woully Wandering.

Georgia Armenia Bicycle Tour

Bicycle touring and discovering while meandering up and over passes. En savoir plus
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  • Début du voyage
    22 août 2026
    Where's Woully Wandering.Georgia Armenia Bicycle TourVoyageur
    1

    But first Belgrade

    22 août, Serbie ☀️ 30 °C

    Air Serbia wet leased a Baltic Air A220 for the flight to Belgrade, unfortunately the flight was delayed enough to miss my connection to Sofia Bulgaria.

    I'm going to betray my dirt bag hostel resident status by saying that the Crowne Plaza, where they put a lot of us up for the night, is quite out of character for me. It's super nice! Thank you Air Serbia for the mini vacation. I'll be back on my planned flight one day later.

    I did an afternoon walking tour of some areas of Belgrade. The Nikola Tesla museum will be worth coming back to Belgrade for. In the evening there was a great festival in the park but on the way there I rolled my ankle on an angle curb and ended up with ice on and foot up in my bed for the rest of the evening. No dancing this time. At least I got to sleep early.    En savoir plus

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  • Where's Woully Wandering.Georgia Armenia Bicycle TourVoyageur

    Ankara

    25 août, Turquie ☀️ 29 °C

    In order to get to Georgia before the cold weather hits the mountain passes I make an intuitive decision to bus quickly through Istanbul to Ankara instead of the planned ferry on the Black Sea.

    I got an unbelievable 8 and 1/2 hours of uninterrupted sleep. The breakfast had a huge variety of Turkish specialties. A noon checkout was perfect to get all my bicycling gear fully sorted out.

    Since I got a flat in the first 17 minutes of riding in Sophia I'll definitely buy a new tube and I could use a few other small items.

    The ride through the city gives me an idea of what life is like here. For the size of the city it's surprisingly livable. There is a huge open space park where an amazing amount of temporary structures are being constructed. A summer festival is already running in another park and this event is theatre and cultural stage meetings for another long weekend in early September.

    There is an enormous amount of construction going on in Ankara same as in Istanbul. A brand new football stadium for 45,000 seats, hotels, apartments, bridges and roads. It's not China, it's Turkey, where are they getting the money from?    En savoir plus

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    Dogu Ekspresi train to Kars

    25 août, Turquie 🌙 25 °C

    The compression of time is noticeable. Last night Ankara, a night in a bus from Sofia, the night before Belgrade, Amsterdam, Arnhem and before that Brussels. That feels like a month ago. I woke up in Ankara and I'm boarding the popular Dogu Ekspresi train on a couchette this evening direction Kars, all of 1300km into the far Eastern reaches of Turkey. From there I'll start cycling, it's grand time.

    The targeted travel time is 27 hrs and now that I'm on the train it is more likely to take 30 plus hours. This must be one of the slowest trains in Turkey as it winds through a few national parks and river canyons. At times we're rolling at 15km p hr. It was a two sunset train ride.    En savoir plus

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    Kars to Çildir Gölü

    27 août, Turquie ☁️ 16 °C

    Sumptuous breakfast followed by a cruise through town and the castle, built in the 1100s. Kars is all about cheese and honey. Tractors too, especially tractors. Tractors line the streets and are shown in shops. Personally I really liked the candy apple red Solis. It's sunny the air is cool it's perfect so I leave late at noon. Kids yell hello, adults honk and three motos from the hotel beep as they fly by. The shepherder yells and it's thumbs up all around. It feels good to be back on the road.

    Thunder and lightning starts up as I ride out of town and I have to ride hard to outpace the clouds. It worked. More thunder cells develop all around me. I chose the slower harder route midway by a river running in a small canyon. It feels primordial with this cool dark weather and the storms all around, a hawk busts out from next to me, birds eat a carcass, farmers are piling up wheat for the winter. Cattle is brought in for the night. It's an early dark feel.

    I end up in a small town where the sun heats the hot water and paradoxically the stove is fired with dung bricks that lay drying in piles everywhere. It's 100% agricultural, ducks, geese, sheep and cattle roam freely.

    In the end I miss all the storms, find a great spot by the lake and get settled in my cozy abode.    En savoir plus

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  • Where's Woully Wandering.Georgia Armenia Bicycle TourVoyageur
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    Akhalts'ikhe in Georgia

    29 août, Turquie ☀️ 14 °C

    Woken up at 4:30am by the Muslim prayer emanating loudly and plaintively from the minaret all the way in town.

    The sun is rising after a very wet night. Tent drying will have to wait.

    1000 meters of climbing today and 84km. Forecast for thunder storms by 4pm. Fantastic views over the wide open countryside rolling on forever.

    From the top I'm treated to a 5500 ft plus drop deep into the valley below.

    I still have Turkish Lira left. Lunch just before the border might help use some up. Just as I walk in lighting strikes, thunder claps, rains starts and 3 hours later I'm still sitting there having my third meal. Only 19km to go, mostly downhill. I can wait.

    Beautiful hotel room but I'm the only guest.    En savoir plus

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    Alhalts'ikhe visit

    30 août, Géorgie ⛅ 15 °C

    A short history of Georgia is mind blowing in its complexity over the millennia. https://share.google/hwgxVOOQIjPOe2tc0

    The name of the city stands for 'New Fortress's so named after the old destroyed castle was rebuilt. Again it was demolished and recently rebuilt in 2012 for cultural, historical and tourism reasons. It's a castle like I have never seen before.

    By far the largest breakfast ever was served included with the hotel stay.    En savoir plus

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    Zekari pass

    1 septembre, Géorgie ☁️ 13 °C

    Climbing the dirt road to Zekari pass, as the possible rains held off, clouds rolled around the valleys and only 3 shepherder's cars passed me.

    On top I was greeted by a young boy on a bicycle and an old man selling jars of homemade honey and jam. I bought one of each and I was invited in for coffee and a bite. They live up there with their cattle for four months in summer.

    There was a second summit on top of which I was greeted by two Swiss cyclists who had climbed the 2000 meter vertical from Kutaisi. Some people ..

    The ridge on top was mesmerizing, the sun peaked out, it was pure magic.

    On the way down I visited Sairme hot springs, where I got to relax in a salt room which was a first.    En savoir plus

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  • Where's Woully Wandering.Georgia Armenia Bicycle TourVoyageur
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    Kutaisi

    2 septembre, Géorgie ⛅ 21 °C

    On my way the flat road was actually a bit hilly. I ended up on the wine route. Georgia has been cultivating grapes well before the Romans.

    Known in Ancient Greek history as Aia, Kutaisi was likely the capital of the Kingdom of Colchis during the 13th-1st centuries BC. Kutaisi is famously connected to the myth of Jason and the Argonauts. It is the fourth largest city in Georgia and has retained a smaller feel but plenty grungy in the neighborhoods. The center is a pleasant spot.

    The green bazaar is a stunning display of fruits vegetables and herbs, no wonder Georgia and cuisine is so delicious.

    I'm enjoying good food and excellent places to hang out. The bottom bracket on my bike is getting fixed and I'll set off again.    En savoir plus

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    Tskaltubo & Okatse Canyon

    4 septembre, Géorgie ☀️ 26 °C

    This city is famous for the 20 Soviet built sanatoriums that have gone to waste since the early 90s when they pulled the plug on state funding. Now these buildings are standing empty except for the ones housing the displaced people from the Abkhazia war. Temporary substandard housing that has turned generational. The city is made of parks, it's super relaxing.

    At spring 6, I go for a radon bath. Many people are here on doctor's orders, a long line for a 20 minute dip in water that makes your hair stand up with bubbles. I must be all aglow now.

    Nice lunch of beef heart and liver at Nektari. These prices look ok in Euros, but they are Lari, divide by 3. This is the big meal of the day. Time to get some distance in. Rode a steep climb to reach Okatse canyon skywalk and another 30km into Martvili. Horses, pigs and cattle cross the roads, just normal obstacles in Georgian driving.    En savoir plus

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    Jvari

    5 septembre, Géorgie ☀️ 27 °C

    Martvili canyon is partially closed due to the rain this morning so no boat tour. I get a glimpse of the canyon by the spillover dam.

    In Zinotha there is a little bakery by the side of the road where they bake Lavash in a round clay oven. He slaps the wet dough into the side of the oven and 5 minutes later he peels it off. They also bake a sweet bread with a really nice vanilla type flavor.

    The road goes on through neighborhoods, my legs are heavy, six days straight of riding, tomorrow I just might take a side trip for the day to Zugdidi by bus.
    The sun is out this afternoon and moseying along on tiny country roads through neighborhoods and fields. The final 5km are a surprise dirt road with views of the tall mountains that are too be my next target.

    My heart sank as I saw the picture of the apartment building I'm staying in tonight. It looks terrible for starters but then even worse the top floors don't even have windows and those apartments are abandoned.
    The hallway walls are concrete and cinder block, the rebar shows on the treads of the staircase. It's totally basic Soviet style from the 70s built for the workers of the nearby dam that they finished in 1987. Since then 6 of these buildings have been abandoned partially. Apparently the roofs still work, the windows were stolen and put in homes nearby. Now just a few of the apartments are being fixed, and once inside they are really well done, even with a washer for clothes. Comfy inside, noisy outside on this Saturday night. But a very lively and welcoming owner with food in his little market. A study in contrasts in this country of Georgia which is still intertwined with its Soviet past.    En savoir plus

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    Zugdidi

    6 septembre, Géorgie ☀️ 23 °C

    A side trip to the city to rest my cycling legs. It's nice to walk around in the splendid weather. I get the Khinkali for lunch. Beard trim and D3/K2 vits and a visit to Mickey D for a cup of coffee since they have the nicest outside terrace with a view and wifi. I recognized the building without an English sign, talk about good branding.

    This is a relatively new city for Georgia but it is still older than American cities. There is not as much to see either.

    Later I would meet a French couple who met a descendant of Napoleon who had many of his possessions stripped from him and put into a museum by the Russians. The poor man was still trying to live down his ancestors history by being as good a human as he can be.    En savoir plus

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    Khaisi

    7 septembre, Géorgie 🌧 16 °C

    It was going to be a rainy day and I was going to stay inside and putz around on the tablet. But I kept an eye out on the weather, it's clearing up. I'm good for a 10:30 start.

    I'll be coming by the Enguri reservoir that has been dammed up since 1978 when they finished the project. There are five electro generating turbines after a 15 km pipe brings the water further down to increase the pressure. It generates all of the electricity for the entire country. The power station is located in Abkhazia, which is Russian controlled territory belonging to Georgia. I saw a documentary on the building of this dam, it is still the fifth tallest arch dam in the world. The Chinese have built a few taller ones, no surprise. All of the electronics have been updated with the help of German engineers but the work is done by local Georgians, which is superb ownership and in cooperation with the Russian occupiers of Abkhazia.

    The ride is fantastic along the reservoir, the weather is cool and mostly sunny. The hostel is chill and includes dinner and breakfast.    En savoir plus

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    Mestia

    8 septembre, Géorgie ☁️ 8 °C

    The ride started out in a chilly morning air with a warming sun rising fast. The Enguri river is roiling at the confluence with the Nenskra. Many confluences pour into the Enguri along the way up the valley.

    Svaneti is something else, the sights are tremendous, walls of stone rise at 80° from the river in places and you wonder how they ever got a road in here, never mind how the population got around a thousand years ago. The forest is dense and steep. Peaks jut up to 4000m and behind them somewhere is Mt Elbrus at 5600m.

    I'm finally burning up my large breakfast by 1pm and I stop for coffee and later an OJ, then snack on my leftover muesli. The roads are a challenge to maintain, but substantial sections that are safe from subsidence have been freshly repaved. I hang out for a bit with an enthusiastic crew of young guys working on a cave in. It will be all fixed in 5 days they say.

    Mestia is a tourism oriented town, large busses arrive with foreign tourists toting large roller cases. Tomorrow they will be clad in their best hiking gear, walking through town and catching taxis to trailheads. In winter the ski area rises right out of town and I see skis all around, which is an interesting feeling for me coming from a ski town myself.    En savoir plus

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    Mt Ushba

    9 septembre, Géorgie ☀️ 8 °C

    There is a ridge to climb from where it must be possible to see Mt Ushba. It is a prominent peak in the Caucasus range at 4967 meters. Mt Elbrus the highest in the range at 5600m is located out of view further North in Russia.

    It is a 2000 plus meter climb. At the top of the first section I step out of the woods into a sudden view of another range. My jaw dropped, it was so stunning, so sudden, so unexpected. I love surprises like that. There is a viewing platform and hikers that were brought up by 4x4 from town. I stay sitting still just to dry out, staring over this 270 degree display of tectonic lifting work.

    Reaching the lakes is the next section, it's still steep. More people but not busy. There are views all around. The sun is shining, it's just splendid.

    The lakes are just like Paradise Divide in Crested Butte, 4x4s, people taking pictures, enjoying the views.

    It would be easy to just lay in the grass and enjoy the sunshine, the peak I seek is in the clouds anyway. But I did climb the rest of the way and reached the ridge. Nobody else there all day.    En savoir plus

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    Ushguli

    10 septembre, Géorgie ⛅ 11 °C

    A mellow ride with some decent vertical, leading to the UNESCO village known for its towers. A portion of it has been preserved. I'm staying in one of the old towers. The road still has some rough spots but it won't be long until all of it is completely built up. It still has a lot of character. These are rough mountains, it rains a lot and it's a long winter. There are still a few older people in some of the smaller villages at the ends of the valleys who stay year around. The government has to come in with helicopters to provide them with food when they get snowed in.

    There is a small museum showing how life was for centuries before it got modernized.    En savoir plus

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    Mt Shkara & Enguri headwaters

    11 septembre, Géorgie ⛅ 13 °C

    A 9km ride on dirt brings me to a cafe near the base of the Shkara glacier where most people hike to. I intend to discover the headwaters of the Enguri river that fills the reservoir I cycled by a few days ago. At this point the Enguri is just a strong creek, while it was a wild and roiling river before entering the reservoir from where it flows in the Black Sea.

    I get close and on another day I would have climbed all the way, but the body is mildly complaining of fatigue after 5 effortful days. The ankle I rolled in Belgrade is also whispering.

    All in all another splendid day in the mountains with amazing weather, the best they have had all summer apparently, it has been raining a lot here.

    Dinner on the covered deck in the setting sunshine of the day. Met a few Dutch hikers and in the movie Dede which was filmed in Ushguli there were 10 Dutch and later a few Finnish folks. Good for laughs.    En savoir plus

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    Lentheki

    12 septembre, Géorgie ☀️ 15 °C

    Departing Ushguli for the final 500 meters of climbing before 2400 meters descent. A small monastery is on the left at Zagari pass, I decide to climb another 100 meters to go see it. 8 Georgians are having a meal and lively conversation. They wave me over for a glass of white wine that tastes like champagne and offer me an entire Khachkuri with homemade cheese. It's excellent. And just like that they are off to their next destination. David a Canadian decides to jump out of his van rental to hike to Ushguli and we talk about the best routes to get there.

    The descent is a brake burner. But I'm happy I chose my direction for this multi day loop, it's steeper and longer it seems the other way. Not too far from my goal I ran into a French couple cycle touring and they told me 4 Swiss cyclists are right behind them. I tell them I might know them from a few months ago in Montenegro. Sure enough it's them. Totally fun to catch up on each other's adventure and too little time to do it since we're just crossing paths.

    Another splendid day in the saddle but my legs are very much toast. Lucky it was mostly down hill.    En savoir plus

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    Who Knows Where

    13 septembre, Géorgie ☀️ 22 °C

    The first pedal stroke.
    I know, body is broke.
    Luck, nearest town is down.

    Georgian George and his Belgian Marianne want to know.
    'Where do you go?'

    Go this way instead, is what he said. But watch out for bears he mimes, I often see them sometimes. (He really said that🤣)

    Still my way I go, even if slow.
    Up steep twist a road, carry my load.

    In baking sun forever to the sky,
    salty sweat drips in the eye.
    Must do my loop, over bars I stoop.

    This is my way, again I say.
    Parts squealing metal on metal.
    The truth lies in the question after all.

    In my ear I hear, Jerry Jeff, a song so near. "Just lettin' it roll, the high times carry the low, livin' my life easy come easy go."

    "And I still have a long way to go" croons Railroad Earth and I'm feeling no myrth, not yet.

    Then as the Floating Flyer crests the summit, the day is dunnit.    En savoir plus

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    Nice try

    16 septembre, Géorgie ☀️ 20 °C

    Changing up the bicycle for a motorcycle for 5 days of getting into the mountains is a great idea for tired legs.

    I rent a motorcycle at the last minute and I end up with an Indian built Hero 200cc. The weather is not cooperating so I plan a ride to the border with Azerbaijan where there are dry steppe and interesting formations and bubbling mud.

    This bike is not new. The owner says this is the last time he'll rent it out. He says riding the high mountain passes is not recommended since there is no cell service there. He can't come get me there either. Mmmm what am I in for?

    Fully loaded, the old bike has enormous cachet. My first stop is at the Chronicles of Georgia. An older man walks up to me and finally gets me to understand his question, how many miles on this bike? I gesture a 4 2 6 0 0. His eyes pop and he enthusiastically gives thumbs up. Yeah, this bike had seen a lot of action, the engine has been rebuilt twice.

    I get near the Azerbaijani border, a zone of serious contention and it is generally recommended to not get closer than 4km if you do not want to get shot at. But this area is apparently okay because there is a monastery, ok well if you say so...

    Luck is about to turn as the shift lever comes off and I'm stuck in first gear. It's going to be a long way back, but I manage to get it back on with a rock. Now trust in the old bike is a bit broken especially for reaching up high and deep in to the most serious mountain range Europe can throw at you. I return to the shop in the pouring rain and thunder. Still it was an interesting experience.

    Back in Tbilisi there must be something going on, few hotel rooms remain and I go for the hostel option. I can't find it for an hour, finally the daughter of the owner guides me in. No signs at all. I had already cancelled but checked out the room, it's a small dark bunker, easily the absolute worst hostel I have ever seen. I walked right out and got a decent room.

    You never know what you are going to bump into on these travels, but the breakfast was a great buffet. Dinner too, went back to the restaurant on the river and had another Caesar salad and cheese kinkhali.    En savoir plus

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    Tbilisi

    17 septembre, Géorgie ⛅ 25 °C

    Very late start, crack of noon, yet a mellow morning was called for. I worked on futures trading for a couple of hours so it was actually productive. The rest of the day will be like that too. Today is 'take care of myself' day.

    Some great pictures of street art and a Bitcoin machine as I walked to the top of a cliff above the city and followed a mellow path to the National Botanical garden. It's a nice refuge from this busy bustling city.

    I have an appointment for a private hot sulphur bath and a sports massage. Those quads really hurt when he dug in.

    More rest. I couldn't get the theatre worship tickets so I looked for a nice place to eat. What a view, great food and fireworks to boot.

    Maybe some jazz in the 1984 club to round off a relaxing day. As I am waiting for the bus three kids walk up. I met them camping a few weeks ago. Hey remember us? oh my gosh it's you guys this is great, we talked and connected again. I get the feeling I'll see them again many years from now.

    The jazz club is having an Amy Winehouse tribute. The singer is amazing and obviously Amy is alive and kicking in Tbilisi.

    There is major construction going on on the street and behind the establishment as well and it looks as if they have unearthed and age-old complex that they are trying to save somehow..    En savoir plus

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    Stepansminda

    21 septembre, Géorgie ☁️ 6 °C

    It's chilly and windy out in this northern part of Georgia. Mt Kazbegi at 5000 meters high is in full view out of my window. I think I'll sit here observing it with a cup of coffee in hand.

    The Gergeti Trinity Church stands atop a hill 500 meters above the town. It is the tourist spot, busy but no trinkets. I rode my bicycle up walked around and rode back down, ready for an old man nap.

    Had a nice dinner with a couple from India who speak English with each other since their languages are not the same. They live in Dublin.    En savoir plus

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    Gveleti gorge

    22 septembre, Géorgie ⛅ 10 °C

    I rode the last 15km in Georgia of the fabled military highway, right up to the Russian border. Way back in time there would have been a single track between villages, then a cart track for merchants and somewhere in the early 1900s a road was built. The current post WW2 iteration of the road has two tunnels, is straighter than the old one, but it's not enough. This highway is the only connection between Tbilisi, Armenia and Russia. The truck traffic on this road is substantial and they barely fit when they pass each other, there are no shoulders, but there is a cliff and a mountain wall.

    As a cyclist I am not going to share two tunnels with these trucks. I find a way up an embankment and go along the over grown old military road, hewn into the rock, the truly fabled one. Below me the Chinese, of course, are building the fourth version of this road. Will this be the last? It's super streamlined along the riverbed and through the bottoms of mountains. Up on the old old road it's quiet and I enjoy the special feeling of this venerable road overgrown with bushes and grass, hardly recognizable, in the end nature wins.

    Gveleti gorge is a popular spot for a short hike and there are some people on the trail but I was lucky to have the waterfalls to myself.    En savoir plus

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    Mt Kazbeg Gergeti glacier

    23 septembre, Géorgie ⛅ 11 °C

    Nice hike up from the valley floor about 1700 meters elevation gain.

    Incredible views, a super rough landscape. Moody clouds rolling in and out pushed by a forceful wind.

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    Juta camping

    24 septembre, Géorgie ☁️ 15 °C

    It's an easy spin with heavy legs until the end of the flats and then it's 650 meters up. There is no camping in Juta but above Juta yes, but you can only get there hiking. So I push the bike up the rocky trail. Oh well why not? I'll get to MTB it tomorrow. There is a payback for that effort, time in a lazy hammock at 1550 bar. The tent is set up, there is a hotel bar serving the hikers. Easy to take some time in there with a drink and get on the Wi-Fi.

    Am I really camping?    En savoir plus

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