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South Somerset District

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    • Day 28

      More reflections by Bern

      August 28, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      English people are unerringly polite...except if you jump a queue.

      England is the home the big breasted woman.

      Women tend to not wear jeans. They wear slacks. Often red.

      Toast is only waved over the toaster, making it more bread really.

      I love how kids call their parents mummy and daddy not mum and dad and that 12 year old boys hold hands with their dads.

      Public Gardens are used by thousands of families every weekend. Kids roll down hills, splash in the rills. Rain makes no difference.

      English couples, always have a fold up chair. Open up the boot, pour the tea from a thermos and voilà, you have a cafe. If it’s raining, there are always umbrellas.

      I have seen it all. At the Fox Inn there is a dog menu. Dogs rule.i think I have developed an allergy to dog hair.

      No other country can claim ownership of a river named Piddle which runs through Puddletown, which was originally called Piddletown. Confused?
      The towns south of the river didn’t like the connotations of the word piddle in their name, so they changed their name to Puddletown, Tolpuddle etc while towns north of the river kept the piddle in the name, Piddletrenthide and Piddlehinton. Piddle do Puddle, you choose.

      A wonderful country
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    • Day 2

      No Wayford Am I Driving This Car

      May 29, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Newly invigorated by my brand new camera charger with a USB cable which allows me to CHARGE it in the CAR, we headed down toward Wayford to visit St. Michael's Church where Will's parents were married. The first record of the church was in the 13th century, so it is at least 750 years old. It's been around so long that the center aisle is worn down in the middle from centuries of churchgoers walking on it. I tired to take a picture of it while Will was outside, but he walked back in to find me on the floor, and all I have to show for it was a dark, awkwardly angled shot of the stones. I probably won't include that in my exhibit.

      I've heard quite a bit about this church, so I expected it to be old and beautiful. What I did not expect was how small it was. There were only two rows of about 12 pews. A total of about 24 in the whole place. It makes sense that such a small village wouldn't need a huge church, but it surprised me all the same. At one end of the church is a beautiful stained glass window, and at the opposite end is an octagonal font from the 14th (?) century. I wish that I knew more about the church, but for something that's been around for so long, it's surprisingly difficult to find information on.

      Inside the church is a listing of the different gravesites on church ground. The very last name on the list is a Vickery whom William had never heard of. We decided to try to find him. So we walked out of the church, past the old telephone booth that has been converted to a miniature library, and to the end of the road outside of the church. Or it may have been an alley. It's actually very hard to tell the difference. Or they just don't have alleys here. In any case, we did not locate the mysterious Vickery. What we DID locate was a pair of furry pigs. I did not even know those existed but I can honestly say that my life has changed for the better. The first pig we encountered was munching on some grass up the hill from the road. At first he ignored us, but Will started oinking at him, because he is William, and the pig started to venture a little bit closer. We actually thought for a moment that he was oinking back, but then we realized that there was a second pig off to the side who was off in piggy dreamland. He was grunting and snorting just like dogs do when they dream. If my suitcase were not already dangerously close to the weight limit, Charlie may have found himself with a new sibling upon my return. Sadly, it was not to be.

      Let's circle back to the road/alley debacle for a moment. Before leaving on our trip, we discussed my helping with the driving. I was very hesitant because of the exciting combination of standard transmission and driving on the wrong side of the road. I explained this to Will, and said that I could probably drive around town but felt very uncomfortable driving on the highway. He had two bits of feedback there. First, it's called a motorway (imagine me sarcastically waving my hands here). Second, if I were to drive anywhere, I should drive on the motorways and leave the shorter trips to him. That seemed very counterintuitive to me. Everyone knows that you learn to drive in a parking lot, not on a freeway. Excuse me, MOTORway. I did not consider that many of the towns we would be driving through were laid out before America, let alone the advent of motor vehicles. There is no traditional grid pattern. You know that scene in Indiana Jones where he's stuck in a pit of snakes? Really picture those snakes. Imagine you're looking down on them from above. That's the road map for the west country.

      It's generally enjoyable to be a passenger on those trips. You start out in a little town, a quiet village, if you will. I would imagine that every day in said villages is like the one before. These little towns are filled with little people. Sorry, I'm done. You start in a small town and as you leave the town you enter what is essentially a winding maze. Tiny roads that are barely wide enough for one car, let alone two. There are hedges right along the roadside that are sometimes eight feet tall, which limits maneuverability. This is to help separate the surrounding farms from the road and from each other. I can see how it makes sense; they're fences that largely maintain themselves that won't be damaged if someone goes careening off the road, which seems very likely. There are just a few complications that arise. Visibility in these hedge mazes is very low. The road twists and turns so much that you can often only see 50 feet in front of you. So it's difficult to see whether your turn is coming up until you've nearly (or fully) passed it. When you combine this lack of visibility with the narrow road, you run into a second problem. These are two-way streets. Seeing the issue yet? You can come around a turn and find yourself nose to nose with another car and no room to go around each other. I haven't experienced this exact phenomenon yet. So far, anytime we've rounded a corner to meet another car, they have been far enough away that one of us has a place to pull off the road to allow the other to pass. There are small alcoves, about the size of half of a hatchback, that allow just enough room for one car to duck in and allow another car to squeeze past. Apparently, in situations where two cars meet and there is no alcove between them, one car must reverse back up the road until they reach one.These roads are called B roads, and they are to be respected. I initially said they should be feared, but apparently they can smell that. So, no, I do not want to drive on the B roads.

      I also do not want to drive on the A roads, to be honest. I think I've seen three traffic lights since leaving Texas. They just don't really have them here. You know what they do have? Roundabouts. I can do a roundabout passably on a good day, with an automatic transmission, on the right (in every sense) side of the road, in a city for which I have a preexisting mental map. The roundabouts here check literally none of those boxes. I still look the wrong way when reaching an intersection. I've attempted to get in on the wrong side of the car three times now. Today, we passed a car with a dog in the passenger seat and I truly thought for moment that the dog was driving., I absolutely should not be trusted behind the wheel. I'm a public menace. Someone, please explain this to my chauffeur...er, boyfriend.
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    • Day 2

      Everything: It's What's for Breakfast

      May 29, 2019 in England ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

      I might actually be dying.

      The food was amazing, but there was so much of it. I ate until I was in physical pain and still only ate about half of it. I've learned that I do not enjoy black pudding. I tried, I really did. The taste wasn't even unpleasant, it tasted a bit like Thanksgiving. But the texture put me off and then there's the mental factor of knowing what exactly you are eating and I just couldn't get past it. I gave it a go, but I think my relationship with black pudding may be at its end.

      Another new experience for me was thick British bacon. Not thick because it is British bacon. Thick compared to OTHER British bacon. All the food we have eaten here has been locally sourced, which means that if you want your bacon cut thicker, you just ask your butcher to cut your bacon thicker. The shopkeeper did just that and I learned something new about bacon. There is actually a bacon spectrum. At one end is streaky bacon, what we think of as Americans when we hear the word "bacon." At the other end is back Bacon, what they understand to mean bacon in the UK. For your reference, it's on the left side of my plate in the picture. If you blow right past back bacon and THEN decide to slow down, you'll end up somewhere juuuuust outside of pork chop territory. That's this bacon. It fights back.

      I also already got lost. When I got to the bottom of the stairs, I should have turned left. I did, in fact, NOT do that and as a result nearly ended up behind the bar. Which, although not an inherently bad place to find yourself, is not where respectable young women (I'm talking about me) are located before 9 AM. Hopefully this is a one and done situation.
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    • Day 29

      Barrington Court

      August 29, 2018 in England ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      The trouble with staying in rural Dorset is that you are in rural Dorset.

      The Fox was a good price in a picturesque rural setting with absolutely shitty roads in and out.

      The road rules are:
      Tractors win, you move for them, they just keep going,
      All Audis are driven by women with a death wish and focussed vision
      Any blind corner will have a white van in the middle of the road
      Semi drivers are knights of the road and very patient with obvious tourists

      It was miles and miles of 0.5 lane hedged lanes, tractors, cars, JOGGERS and of course white vans.

      Having asked for best way out of Ansty and the way to Yeovil,the barman's reply was "I don't really really know north Dorset. "
      We were travelling about 12km form where he lives!!!!

      Eventually got to Barrington Court itself which of course was up a 4 mile lane.

      Amazing place. (Getting sick of that description yet?)

      Built as a great Tudor House built in thr 15502 with a stable block built in 1675. As these it was in very poor state by 1775 and went down from there as a tenanted farm.

      Chickens in the Great Hall, cider barrels stored in the main room and hay in master bedroom, rain and owls on the top floor.

      The newly formed National Trust were asked if the wanted it and they said yes in 1907.

      Then they got the builders report and the roof repair was more that their total assets.

      Enter Colonel Lyle.

      In 1917 he offerd to lease it for 99 years, pay 400 pound a year rent and undertake all repairs.
      It appears we was a multimillion site and spent the equivalent of 5 million pounds on the project.
      His problem was he collected architectural salvage particularly wood panelling and had ton as of the stuff in storage. A few present persons come to mind.
      First he built a house to live in, then he converted stables, then he renovated the Tudor house.
      Then he moved in with all his wall panelling.

      Glad he took it on.

      In 1991 his grandson called it a day and handed it all back to the Trust.
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    • Day 81

      Montacute House

      July 21, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

      Sir Edward Phelips, a member of Parliament and then Speaker of the Houses of Commons, had this house built in 1601 as a statement of his power and wealth. This is one of the best examples of Elizabethan Renaissance architecture in England,

      The original front of the house was on the East side. In 1787, a later Edward Phelips took an ornamental facade from another local 16th century house, and added it to the West side. This made a new front with a corridor inside, so rooms could have their own doors. Before this family and visitors would have to go through each other’s rooms to get from one side of the house to the other.
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    • Day 30

      Montacute

      August 30, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Enormous Elizabethan house.
      I know you are surprised.
      Built by a wool merchant and lawyer who was also an MP and a judge. We are sure he wasn’t status conscious.
      Was involved in the trials of Sir Walter Raleigh and the Guy Fawkes plotters. Knighted for his efforts.
      Very good guide around the property and a lot of the place makes more sense.
      150 years after the place was built the local road had changed so they bought the front from a local manor and stuck on the back to create a new front door!!!!
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    • Day 30

      Lytes Cary Manor

      August 30, 2018 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Not far from Yeovil are four National Trust properties so there is a bit to see.
      In regards to Yeovil even the staff in the hotel keeping saying, “Why would you want to go into Yeovil?”
      Who are we to argue with local knowledge.

      Almost every town has a memorable church, castle, ruin or memorial .

      Still looking for Yeovil’s.

      Lyte family owned the Lytes Cary Manor for 500 years until they got into financial strife the 1700s. It went a bit of a ruin for 150 years until Sir Walter and Lady Flora Jenning bought the place in 1907,because everyone needs a project.
      They spent a few pounds on restoring it and the gardens which they did in the Arts and Crafts style.
      The Chapel attached to the house was built in 1348 replacing an early one! It’s good to have a Chapel.
      Very, very nice.
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    • Day 2

      Dorsettling In

      May 29, 2019 in England ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

      This morning was not awesome. We visited several different shops but still couldn't manage to track down a camera charger. It turned out not to be the worst thing, though, because it was so foggy earlier that we couldn't see more than about 10 meters in front of us. The largest downside to our failed attempts at locating the charger is that it put us behind schedule for lunch. We were meant to pick up William's Granddad and Nan for lunch right at about noon. We didn't end up getting there until 12:10, which, as a result put us ten minutes behind schedule to meet up with the rest of his family. Definitely a faux pas, I know, but I didn't think it to be a catastrophic error.

      I was wrong.

      Being ten minutes late meant that the pub sold out of roast before we could order our food. I did not live through the war, so I never experienced Keep Calm and Carry On in its original form. However. I think I witnessed a very close second when four people in our eight-person party were forced to choose another item from the menu at the last moment. I sank very low in my seat as word spread down the table that we had missed the roast. Will blamed our tardiness on a broken-down lorry on a roundabout which did, in fairness, slow us down. But the ugly truth is that I did it. I made us miss the roast. The truth is out now, and it is a huge burden lifted off my shoulders.

      An interesting thing I've noticed about pubs here is that many of them allow dogs inside, at least in certain areas. Will's Nan brought her dog Sasha in with us, which was new phenomenon for me. Sasha handled the whole thing much better than Charlie would have, in that she only barked twice and spent most of her time sleeping on the floor under a chair. This does explain a lot about dinner last night. A women in the pub for dinner had a black lab with her. I remember thinking that it must be a service dog, right up until she tried to leave and the dog became very distracted by locating potential scraps on the floor. And the bar. And the laps of the patrons. I did think that it was surprising behavior for a service dog. Much less surprising from a civilian dog.

      Aside from the roast snafu, lunch was very nice. I got the chance to spend time with Will's Granddad and Nan, Aunt Kathy and Uncle Brian, and Grandma Marina and Bernard. I've learned that being the butt of nearly every joke is something that happens to William pretty much no matter where he goes or with whom he interacts. So I'm really not sure why he isn't used to it by now! Besides having a nice break from being Will's constant ego control, it was really nice to hear about past visits to the UK and some family history. It was also enjoyable to watch Brian attempt to send texts from Will's "email watch." Sadly, none of them went through because of Will's cellphone plan (or lack thereof), but I'm holding out hope that they will send once we return to Texas.

      Still stuffed from breakfast, I opted for a bacon and brie sandwich, thinking that something lighter would be a good choice. I had obviously forgotten that a single rasher of bacon is enough to fulfill one's meat requirement for a month. I may have committed too thoroughly to eating traditionally while I'm here. The food is delicious, but so heavy. I think the only time all day that I'm fully awake is just before breakfast. Once I've eaten my first meal, half of my body's energy is committed to digesting and my brain is left to do what it can. So if you notice typos of other nonsense in my posts, please know that it isn't the jet lag or me being an idiot (probably). Just blame it on the bacon.

      There are two main reasons that we drove all the way out to Winyard's Gap for lunch. Both of them involve being able to look out over the valley. Instead of a beautiful view of the local farms, I got a beautiful view of traditional English fog. Don't ask for pictures, it's a sore subject. I'm told I missed something spectacular. The view from the pub was a bummer to miss, but I've scene so many beautiful landscapes since I've been here that I don't think I will miss it too much. What I am more sad to have missed is the view of one specific farm. Near to the pub is a farm called Axnoller, which is where Will's Granddad was born. The farm has since become an events center for "weddings 'n' shit" as Will so eloquently puts it, so we couldn't have actually gone onto the farm, but there is apparently a nice view of the land from the hill above. You know, when there isn't apocalyptic fog filling the valley. Adding insult to injury, the fog started to burn off just as we gave up and began our return to Illminster.

      There were two sights that I did get to enjoy during our adventure. The first was trees that were very different from those we had seen so far. I had mentioned to Will earlier in the trip that I had expected the woods to be Disney princess kind of woods and the ones we were experiencing were a little...scrubby. The trees we drove past today changed all that. They grow very, VERY tall and so thick that they are able to join together over the road to form a tunnel of sorts. I've since learned that it makes sense for the landscape and the trees to be outstandingly beautiful, as we were in a region that is classified as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. As far as I understand, an AONB is a bit like a historical district back home. They're beautiful to visit and very unpleasant to living or owning a business in. There are requirements for what materials can be used to complete repairs and what flora and fauna can be interacted with.

      The second lovely sight was Sasha resting her head on my lap on the drive back to Ilminster. She's no Charlie, but she's a pretty decent Bandaid.

      This afternoon, the quest for a camera charger continues this afternoon, followed by a trip to St. Michael's Church and a different The George Pub in a different town. So many Georges, so little time...

      In case you're interested in Axnoller Events Ltd for you wedding and/or shit: https://www.axnoller.co.uk/
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    • Day 2

      By George! Is Incredibly Nonspecific!

      May 29, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      As I've mentioned, the Brits seem to really love their Georges. So much so, in fact, that while standing in Ilminster, if you type "The George" into Google Maps, you will get a full page of nonrelated results and none of them will be the pub you're looking for just down the street. Tonight we sampled the wares of another The George. The beer was good and the seating was nice, but the steak and ale pie at The George in Donyatt can dance circles around the steak and ale pie at The George in Crewkerne. Unrelated, I'm starting to feel that I'm either in Wonderland or an episode of Black Mirror...Read more

    • Day 3

      You Are Now Leaving Destination 1

      May 30, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Here is what was supposed to happen this morning:

      6:00 AM - Wake up and have a cup of tea
      6:30 AM - Pack up our bags and load the car
      7:30 AM - Explore St. Mary's
      8:30 AM - Breakfast
      9:00 AM - Checkout and explore Ilminster
      10:00 AM - Tea with Will's Granddad and Nan
      11:00 AM - Leave Ilminster and drive past the house where Will's family used to stay when visiting
      12:30 PM - Arrive in Lyme Regis
      1:00 PM - Meet Will's Grandma for tea

      Can you picture it happening? Neither can I. I don't know what we were thinking. Here's what actually happened:

      8:20 AM - Woke up. We were already off to a really good start. We traded our pajama pants for actual pants and did literally nothing else before going down to breakfast.
      8:35 AM - Arrived at breakfast.You may be thinking, "How did it take 15 minutes to change your pants?" And that's an excellent question to which I do not have an answer.
      9:00 AM - Got dressed in actual clothes and went to explore St. Mary's
      9:30 AM - Packed up and loaded car
      10:00 AM - Checked out and did not explore Ilminster
      10:15 AM - Arrived at Will's Granddad's and Nan's for tea
      11:30 AM - Left Ilminster
      11:45 AM - Attempted to drive past the house where Will's family used to stay when visiting
      1:00 PM - Arrived in Lyme Regis

      Only half an hour behind schedule, which isn't too bad. However, we didn't make it into Ilminster which means that we still have not picked up cash. Thankfully, pretty much everywhere we've been we've been able to use contactless pay, if not our cards. We're moving a little better today than we were yesterday, probably because we dialed it back on breakfast this morning. A full English is not meant for daily consumption I've realized.

      St. Mary's was a nice detour. The church was pretty, but it undergoing renovations so we were unable to go in. What is interesting is that they still seem to be using the graveyard, which makes sense for such a small town, but is not something you commonly see.

      Tea was very nice. We met their friend/neighbor Steve. The first thing he said when we introduced ourselves was "Oh I've met William, don't you remember?" After teasing him a bit for forgetting him, Steve finally explained that he had met William when he was approximately four. If you ask my family, they will explain to you that I am fully capable of recalling memories from that age. I am very impressive when it comes to strength and detail of memory. However, most of the common people cannot recall that far back, so I don't understand why grownups (that is, anyone older than my current age because my current age will never be considered grown up) like to play this game of "Don't you remember me?? I passed your mom once on the street while you were in utero. I can't believe you don't remember!" In any case, we met (or remet) Steve and sat down to have tea.

      The weather was very nice again today, so we were able to have tea outside. Will's Nan brought out several HUGE slices of cake to have with our tea. It turns out my understanding of "teacake" is incorrect. Will and I both nearly finished our slices, but couldn't quite get there after breakfast. We had a nice time chatting, I did not hit my head on a hanging planter (this time) and we took some ipad pictures, which are always excellent. It's unfortunate that we had to leave, since it would have been nice to stay and visit longer.

      On our way out of town, Will wanted to stop by the house they used to visit in, just so that I could see it. He knew that it was in Broadway, he just couldn't remember exactly where. So we turned down a windy hedge maze road into Broadway. And he knew things looked familiar, so he knew we were in the right spot. Several times, he would say a landmark and say "I remember that house!" or "I remember that tree!" only to then realize that it was not the house or the tree he thought he remembered. After several minutes of turning down many different streets and doubling back on ourselves many times, we decided that we were not likely to find the house and decided to drive on to Lyme Regis. As we were turning out of Broadway, we passed a sign for the neighboring town, Horton, at which point will realized "Ohhhh we used to stay in HORTON, not Broadway!" We may never know whether that's true, as we didn't have time for another side trip. We'll give him the benefit of the doubt and say that it was.

      Once we had the Horton/Broadway (mostly) sorted out, we continued our windy hedge maze journey to the sea!
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