Bắc Yên

The cocophony of roosters started singing around 4am. EVERYONE in this neighbourhood must have at least one or two to be able to produce such a reverberating chorus 🤯 A few were trying to out shine their competition with unique laughable sounds, think rubber chicken squeeze toy 🤣

Duvets did their job, as well as the layers of clothing we wore, but the moist chill of the day was waiting to kiss us upon emerging from bed. We donned our riding gear and packed up our waterproof duffles.

S was unsuccessful with what turned out to be an air issue for the motorcycle. He requested a new bike from the Hanoi shop and the pickup driver drove the 3 hours with it during the night. It definitely started better, though all three bikes were grumpy with the 5C cold temperature.

Instant noodle soup with a fried egg and greens for breakfast 😏

We started the ride into the mist. Soon we found ourselves on a narrow concrete track winding between flowering plum orchards on small steep hills around us. We had the trail all to ourselves. Before long the trail ascended a hill and narrowed to just the width of the 12" concrete. Cresting the hill revealed the decent perched along the side of a steep slope. No room for going off the slightly slippery path as we would tumble down the hill 😯

The trail opened up, crossed a road and we did the first of many stream crossings. Good thing we have almost-waterproof boots! We joined a country road (DL43) and took a small ferry across the Da River. We zigzagged along the rivers edge for 23km. Lots of houses, business and people along this road cut into the hillside strip of land.

Lunch was hot and fresh dishes: beef stomach, deep fried spring rolls, greens, water buffalo and rice. Stretching our legs and fueling our bodies felt good.

We continued along the country highway until we got to Đập Suối Sập 3 Weir. We jumped onto offroad track on what seemed to be the maintenance "road" for a high voltage power line. Mud, puddles and fun. A fair number of small homes tucked along this area too.

With some obstruction ahead we cut down the hill on a brand new trail. The jungle had been cleared and the fresh rich soft dirt had been massaged into switchbacks. It felt like a slip and slide, as regular attempts to reduce speed didn't provide grip. A precarious pair of 5" wide boards spanned a 4-foot gap of soil. S got through. J managed to squeeze by but noticed one board kicked out of place. S walked up to adjust the plank for A. Not convinced it was fixed and aware of a possibly painful tumble down a steep slippery slope with the bike, he asked S to ride it across. No luck 💩. He was lucky the front tire jumped off the board towards the hillside, with the fork resting on the wood. All three of us lifted the front tire and carefully pushed it across. 🤡 Disaster adverted!

We crossed a small metal suspension bridge, through a small village and up a nice dirt road. Passed a herd of small goats. Along a mountain ridge elbow, with views to the valleys on both sides. Our day ended with a decent into Bắc Yên.

Today's ride, 5hrs
https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-CAhWJ0IkDb

Our request for accomodations with heat came to fruition at the Paris Hotel 🗼❣️ We closed the open window 🥶 and cranked the mini-split! A's shower started hot, but soon was 20C 🚿😏 Alas, that little unmarked breaker outside the wet bathroom was the hot water tank control. J's shower afterwards was much nicer 😍 with a small tank full of hot water.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/BanegFBkXYbzYXAN6

We took the opportunity to layout our moist clothes, hand wash a couple items and dry them in front of the heater.

Dinner was across the street at a very large, but quiet restaurant. Another unheated experience we were glad for our warm clothes and toques. Hot pot was the dish of the night. Chicken, tender beef, tofu and veggies were cooked on our table by S. We ate the hot soup as the items were cooked through.

We relished the heat upon returning to the hotel room, hoping for a most restful sleep! 😴🤞Read more