Reiser for tiden
  • Vicky 'n' Will's Travels

Rainboat

Life continuously cruising the canals and rivers of England and Wales. Les mer
  • Blacon, NW of Chester

    4. mars 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    After months of rural bliss on the Llangollen Canal we found we'd reached our fill of the city quite quickly. We cruised on down to Northgate Locks; a triple staircase lock lying in the shadow of the city walls. These locks were deep and as the water emptied you could see the lowest parts were hewn directly from the rock.

    We passed through Chester Canal Basin and earmarked it for mooring on the way back. Before long we were in the suburbs, much of them quite run down and rough around the edges. A lot of rubbish floated in the water and goodness knows how much lay below the surface.

    A tall metal fence and gate with spikes on top closed the towpath for repairs but we cruised on until suddenly there was a sign saying
    'Stop. Canal closed 100m'. With a hard reverse we ground Rainboat to a halt and used the centre rope to haul her back to a point we could moor her to the closed towpath.

    Will keeps a very close eye on canal closures but any planned work on this section was due to have been completed already and there was were no emergency notices to be found online. It being late Sunday afternoon there were no workers around to ask so we just stayed put, moored on the closed towpath. The following morning Will went and talked to the fluorescent vested people arriving on site. It turned out they'd completed the work as planned and the canal was open. They'd just forgotten to take the sign down; could Will do it on his way back?

    We may not have chosen to stay there otherwise, but with the towpath closed there were no passers-bys so we enjoyed the peace and quiet for a second night!
    Les mer

  • Chester

    1. mars 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    A short trip with a couple of locks brought us into central Chester. Concrete banks meant we were limited to official moorings. Vicky walked ahead with Tiger and Leo to scope out potential sites and we settled on a mostly pedestrianised street called Canal Side where we were greeted by a friendly waterways chaplain who just happened to be strolling by. The person from the boat in front of us ignored our attempts to say hi and avoided contact 😏

    With heavy rain we decided our time was best spent nipping in and out of shops. The dogs didn't want to walk so we bundled them up in their bags, got our brollies and wandered into the centre.
    There were plenty of charity shops to peruse on the outskirts while the tall black, white and gilt trimmed tudor buildings further in spoke of Chester's well preserved history. The businesses themselves weren't remarkable but the premises were petite and a good number resided within The Rows; two storeys of galleries set back from the street behind a collonade.

    A couple of small outdoor markets proved enjoyable. We gave way to temptation after sampling handmade cashew 'cheeses' from Wild Roots and gooey vegan peanut butter and chocolate brownies.

    The dogs had had their fill of historic architecture by lunch, so we left them back on Rainboat with lickimats and went in search of our own food. The only pub we could find serving meals was a weatherspoons, so we opted for a bistro café called Atina's that served a yummy a Baba Ganouch salad bowl for Vicky and a Bhaji burger for Will.

    We were almost disappointed we'd already eaten when we discovered the buzzing atmosphere and wide variety of food kiosks at The Exchange indoor market. As well as hot food there was a tiny chinese supermarket, fishmongers, butchers, wool shop and a pet shop. Tables in the middle were accompanied by staging at one end, where younger visitors tended to hang out. After some of the small cities we've visited, it was great to see such vibrant activity in Chester.

    The 'cheese' seller had recommended the Jaunty Goat café and we eventually found it with Google Maps (her directions had been as bad as Vicky's sense of direction 🤪). The cakes weren't anything to write home about but it was worth trying out a local recommendation.

    On our last legs we visited one final shop; Abakhan Fabrics. Vicky recognised the name as she'd previously bought from them online. A two storey cave of creative possibilities, She pulled off an amazing feat of self restraint and we only came away with some waterproof fabric for Will to sew a couple of cushion covers for stern seating.

    As is often the case in Spring, our second day shed not a drop of rain and we were instead bathed in glorious sunshine.

    Walking Chester's city walls was a perfect way to spend the morning. Being lifted level with or above the building tops gave a totally different feel. As we passed the red sandstone towers, the castle, small amphitheatre and regimented roman gardens, nobody was in a hurry and there was a feeling of relaxation and enjoyment. We extended our outing by stopping at the Eastgate Clock where the walls cross the mainstreet for icecream and a delicious hand crafted beer.
    There was still much more to explore but we'd be returning this way before long and felt we'd had our fill for now.
    Les mer

  • The Bridge Inn

    29. februar 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    We set off towards Chester without walking the dogs. Before long we left the muddy towpaths behind and Vicky hopped off onto a dry tarmac surface- heaven! Leo and Tiger raced up and down gleefully as we followed Will along the cut.

    Whilst the walking improved, the people became more guarded and wary of making eye contact as we drew nearer to the city. We moored beside The Bridge Inn on the outskirts, leaving the locks leading into central Chester for another day. There was a little road noise but a lot of dog poo around. Someone had dumped their pasta dinner on the grass by the canal which we needed to drag Leo away from. We've heard of people putting rat poison in such things and didn't want to risk it.

    A small high street with Barbers, a vape shop, Spar, a kebab house and a chippy lay a short distance away so we treated ourselves to a chips for tea. We only stayed the one night as people gathered outside the pub were chatting into the early hours. They weren't being disruptive but Leo could hear them and he made sure we were aware at repeated points through the night.
    Les mer

  • The Shady Oak, Tiverton

    26. februar 2024, England ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    The cruise to The Shady took us down 4 locks, including Beeston Iron Lock. This lock was built out of cast iron in 1828 to replace two original locks that were affected by subsidence.

    The day was sunny but there has been so much rain this month that the towpaths are thick with mud. We moored in as dry a spot as we could find, but were restricted in how far we could walk the dogs in either direction without them having to wade through the stuff.

    We enjoyed lunch at The Shady - bhaji burgers with a rasberry frangipane for Vicky's desert. We were the only customers save for one guy who came in for a drink towards the end of the meal, but the bar tender was friendly and it had a good feeling about it so we returned the following day for a drink with Leo and Tiger Lilly. They'd been cooped up inside the boat because of the heavy rain, so taking them to the pub at least gave them a change of scenery. We got chatting to two boaters, one of which adored the dogs. They recommended a pub called Telfords Warehouse in Chester that we'll try and visit.

    Perched on an upthrust of rock and surrounded by woodland, Beeston Castle was a prominent feature of the landscape and only 2.6km away via footpaths. We waited for a break in the rain before loading Leo into the Pom pouch and taking the shoulder bag for when Tiger got tired. It was a pleasant walk over fields but when we got to the walls at the base of the hill a volunteer told us it was still on winter opening hours and closed today. She recommended a walk around the walls instead, which turned out to be pleasant enough.
    Les mer

  • Beeston Stone lock

    25. februar 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Keen to explore new waters we turned Rainboat round and headed North West towards Ellesmere Port. It took a long time to leave Nantwich as we needed to fill with diesel, pick up the oils and filters we'd ordered from Nantwich Canal Centre for Rainboat's next service, then fill the near empty water tank and get rid of rubbish and recycling.

    The bright sunshine and unfamiliar warmth of the day made these jobs seem less arduous. We were therefore in good spirits when we passed the junction with the Middlewich Branch, from which we'd emerged early in November. The character of the Shropshire Main Line is markedly different from that of the Llangollen. For one it is wider, with more housing, old industry and roads bordering the towpath. The locks are double width and have little domed brick structures alongside, which may have been something to do with controlling water levels.

    Vicky was pretty low on energy so Will got off with Tiger and worked the Bunbury staircase lock and the one after that. We'd forgotten how much longer the larger locks take and time was ticking on. Towards the end of our journey the blue skies changed to an intense steel grey and it began to hail. The cruise took 6.5 hours in total and we were so knackered we didn't even notice we'd moored under a half fallen tree until the next morning, which brought a beautiful frosty fog with it.
    Les mer

  • Nantwich & the Shropshire Main Line

    20. februar 2024, England ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Having posted our inverter on Monday, Will was optimistic Sterling could repair and return it to us by Friday. We began making our way towards the Nantwich pickup point on Tuesday, planning to moor halfway and break the journey over two days. We were both surprised when Sterling called mid cruise to say it would arrive on Wednesday morning! At 17mph the wind wasn't ideal that afternoon but it would be dangerous to travel in the 40mph gusts forecast for tomorrow so we decided to plough on, completing the nine locks and eight miles between Wrenbury and Nantwich.

    We were all knackered by the time we completed the last of the Hurleston locks and turned right off the Llangollen, rejoining the Shropshire Union main line that we'd left back in November. Whilst it felt good to be moored on the familiar embankment overlooking the town (and to have phone signal and a tarmac towpath again!), we did feel sad about leaving the Llangollen Canal behind. It had been a relaxing and extraordinary place to spend the winter months and already the Shroppie felt decidedly busier and mainstream.

    On Wednesday we had lunch at Ginger and Pickles café and a mooch round the charity shops before finding the newsagents where the inverter had been delivered. Will hadn't been sent a delivery code or barcode and didn't have any photo ID on him but after a while Vicky found a photo of his passport on her phone which the vendor accepted. The package weighed over 20kg and was too large to fit in even our biggest rucksack. Unfortunately it was quite a distance between the shop and canal, not to mention the steep embankment steps. We used the two plastic straps to carry it together, taking frequent breaks, making the journey slowly but surely. Once he had recovered, Will installed the surge protector and we refitted the inverter together (Vicky being able to fit inside the cupboard and take the weight while Will screwed in the fixing brackets).

    We once again had 240v power and when Will connected the generator there wasn't even a small puff of smoke. Yipee!

    With all the boxes still out of the electrics cupboard, Vicky hauled out those stored under the dinette and bed in an effort to redistribute the weight. As Rainboat had been listing to port she moved as many heavy things over the starboard side as possible, making the hull a bit more level.

    We rewarded ourselves for a good day's work with fish, chips and a greek salad from the Welsh Row Fryer. 😋 Having visited the town before we didn't feel the pressure to go and explore and were able just to revisit favourite places and focus on the work behind the everyday living.
    Les mer

  • Wet, wet, Wrenbury

    17. februar 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    With the scheduled maintenance now complete on Poveys and Willimore locks we were able to move on to Wrenbury. The CRT may have improved the condition of the locks but they'd done nothing for the state of the towpaths, long stretches of which were collapsing into the canal and / or boggy with mud.

    We initially pulled in just beyond the electric lift bridge by the wharf at the start of Wrenbury. On closer inspection we decided the ground was too muddy so moved further along. Will was ok on board but Vicky, Tiger and Leo found their way blocked by a massive muddy puddle. Only Leo managed to keep his paws clean.

    Thankfully a shingle path saved us from needing to get mucky every time we stepped off, but even the fields were sodden, limiting the options for dog walking.

    While the familiar sound of church bells drifted through the air, the internet signal did not. The Llangollen Canal in general has poor signal but here it was virtually non existent.

    On Sunday we cleared out the electrical cupboard and removed the 20kg inverter charger from the wall. Will had wombled a sturdy cardboard box from a supermarket and Vicky used this, together with a stanley knife and gaffa tape to package the unit ready for sending back to Sterling on Monday morning. We feared the cost of postage would be exorbitant, but we got away with £22 for 24hr Parcel Force delivery.

    With the electrical cupboard empty, Vicky took the opportunity to rearrange boxes from under the bed and dinette. Rainboat had been listing to port so shifting some heavier items to starboard levelled her up a bit. Unfortunately there was quite a bit of damp and mould on the walls in the bedroom cupboard and under the bed. We've managed to increase the air circulation slightly but it will always be a problem storing things directly against cold external walls.

    As a treat we had lunch at the Dusty Miller (great name for a pub!). Unfortunately they'd run oit of many of the dishes on their menu, leaving Vicky with a beyond meat burger with a mushroom on top. Not the best but at least Will enjoyed his battered haloumi burger and pint of the locally brewed Trooper.

    Later that day Sharon and Nici of the Beanie Boat pulled up in front of us. Nici knits some amazing items and creates patterns while Sharon makes a range of soaps. Vicky is currently trying to use up a rather large yarn collection but we were running low on soap so we asked if they had any on board we could buy. The next thing we know Sharon is giving us a huge slab of her charcoal and cedarwood soap, refusing to take any money for it! What a kind gesture!
    https://beanieboat.com/
    Les mer

  • Cath and Paul visit us at Grindley Brook

    13. februar 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Our good friends Cath and Paul had arranged to come and see us and luckily they were keen to help us down the Grindley Brook flight of locks. Cath and Paul had visited us when we were travelling on the continent and we'd holidayed with them in Spain, but this would be the first time they'd see Rainboat.

    Their impending arrival was great motivation for a deep clean so attempts were made to scrub away all the winter mud traipsed in by 2 sets of boots and 12 little paws.

    Grindley Brook doesn't have public parking close by, but we intended to return to the Horse and Jockey for lunch, so the pub were happy for them to leave their car there. After a little tour (there's only so much to see in a space 57 x 6.5ft) we headed off to fill our tummies. We were again impressed with the food and service; the person greeting us even remembered Vicky needed the vegan menu! It's been over a year since we last saw Cath and Paul but we quickly relaxed into each other's company and caught up on the goings-on.

    Rainboat was facing away from the locks so we took a jolly to Whitchurch to turn. Paul and Cath each had a go at the tiller and even if the sun didn't shine, the rain held back and it wasn't too windy.

    Paul used to volunteer for the CRT near their Wollaston home and got back into the swing of things, cranking open the lift bridge at the Whitchurch Arm junction.

    Having extra hands at the staircase of three locks was a real help and hopefully our visitors enjoyed getting stuck in and experiencing our way of travelling. They worked us through a further lock before we moored up and had a well deserved cuppa and a bit of Will's homemade chocolate cake for Cath. Their departure was made easier by arranging to meet up again when we travel down the Shropshire Union, close to Stourbridge, later this year. We were left with a sense of contented happiness after what had been a fun and relaxing day with good friends. Thank you Cath and Paul!

    Over the next few days we took Leo and Tiger to the Lockside Cafe for an afternoon cuppa, cake and fish skin (we'll leave you to work out who had what). It was a sweet little place and Leo revelled in the attention of customers and servers alike.

    On Friday Leo had a very special visitor just for him. We've had him 19 months now and have been working hard on his fearful reactivity. It's clear he's a very troubled little dog and despite time, love, research, positive training and a whole load of management strategies, he's still highly anxious a lot of the time and his fear frequently triggers aggression. We've been bitten countless times and decided we needed some expert advice.

    Caroline of Help at Hand is a behaviourist who specialises in rescue dogs with severe difficulties. She works long term with several foster dogs from the organisation that rehomed Leo; Boycie's Bridge rescue and she helped Will's son and daughter in law with their dog Jake.

    Leo loved her straight away and was overjoyed when she allowed him to lick her face. She spent two hours with us and really seemed to 'get' Leo. His fight or flight automatic nervous system has been engaged so many times in his troubled past. It has kept him alive and despite the threat no longer being there, the trauma and his response is. He isn't thinking when he's reacting, just as you don't think when you jump at a startling noise. We were relieved when she said we'd got further along the road to helping him recover than a great many of her clients and that there was always a way forward. She left us with a few new management strategies to try and a mix of plant extracts in a spray (selected by Leo) that has a visible calming effect on him. We'll continue to liaise online and she may come for future visits. We'll keep you updated.
    Les mer

  • Grindley Brook visitor moorings

    10. februar 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We'd not planned to move on from Whitchurch, but since we discovered we could power the washing machine from the generator instead of having to wait until the engine was running, Vicky has been doing more washing and consequently using more water. Despite the taps still working, our tank level was showing as empty so it wasn't going to be long before we ran out. Our bins were also overflowing as we there hadn't been any refuse points since Ellesmere.

    We did an afternoon journey to Grindley Brook services and what a relief it was to fill up and empty! Turning at the winding hole prior to the first of the locks was difficult due to the wind. We abandoned the canoe and Vicky ended up standing on the towpath holding the bow rope while Will turned the stern. Another boater called Phil saw us and offered an extra pair of hands. We were very grateful and astounded when we saw him walking towards our mooring with our canoe in tow! There are some lovely souls out there!

    Soon after we got settled the sun set over the adjacent arable field and farm while a huge starling murmuration flowed to and fro looking for their nightly roost. Ahh.

    On Sunday we visited the nearby Horse and Jockey for a delicious lunch. Vicky even had a choice of vegan chocolate brownie or waffles for desert!

    Over winter we've been running the generator to charge the batteries each day we don't cruise. The solar panels are beginning to feed in more power as the sun gains height and daylight hours increase but as yet they aren't producing sufficient watts. This time Will fired the genny up and there was a disturbing smell of electrical burning. We turned it off and tried it the next day but the same thing happened. Our inverter battery charger had something very wrong with it. We contacted Lainy the boat builder who called straight back and reviewed what what we were doing. Concluding it was definitely a fault, Will looked online and found it was common for generators to overload the system when there wasn't a surge controller fitted. Fortunately it was still under guarantee so we called Sterling who told us to remove it and post it back to them. We'd need to wait until we were moored near a post office but in the meantime charging via the generator was a no no.
    Les mer

  • Whitchurch Arm

    7. februar 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    The cupboards were bare and so we cruised a little way down the line to Whitchurch. Mooring on the privately run arm gave us good access to Aldi and Sainsburys to refill our supplies. When we stayed here before christmas we took the scenic footpaths into town, but a few months of winter wear had turned these into mud baths. We opted for the pavenent route this time, which was shorter and significantly drier.

    We'd previously placed a few orders on Ebay, which we were able to pick up at the Argos in Sainsburys. We try to get things locally where we can but there are certain things that are difficult to track down, like Leo's 'Keep Calm' oil and a MCT oil for Tiger that will hopefully help the fits caused by her movement disorder.

    Thursday started as a truly grotty day. Near freezing temperature and strong winds brought sleet but we wrapped up warm for our trip to the highstreet and didn't get too wet or cold. Walkers, a shop selling hot pies, looked popular and advertised the fair trade logo on their door. We were directed to the cafe up the narrow switchback stairs. It was in an ancient building and the walls and floors sloped at odd angles. It had a really cosy, homely feel to it and the food was simple and warming. Just the ticket!

    We picked up another parcel from the Post Office, found a pet shop a local fisher had recommended to Will for maggots, revisited the wonderful 'Refill Your Boots' ethical food store and had a good rummage in the charity shops, which held much to tempt us!

    The Whitchurch Arm had a limit of 48 hours and the fuel boat, which was on its way towards us, would find it easier to fill our diesel tank on the mainline. The perfect mooring spot became available just downstream of the junction but because of the angle, boats can only exit the arm upstream. Will did this and turned around at the winding hole a few hundred metres away while Vicky raised the small lift bridge, finally giving Rainboat access to the mooring rings! It was a case of easier said than done!
    Les mer

  • Imbolc on the Prees Branch

    1. februar 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Between Blakemere and the Prees Branch where we intended to stay, lay Colemere; another beautiful lake. With quite a long cruise ahead, Will left Vicky in bed and single handed to near Colemere. We had breakfast then took the dogs all the way round the lake, through woods and over marshland. The paths and boardwalk were well maintained and we met a good number of friendly dog walkers on our circuit. The small boat club at the head of the mere reminded us fondly of the one we used to belong to that sailed on Netherton Reservoir.

    After a little rest we cruised all the way to the Prees Branch, close to Whixhall Moss. It had been frozen over when we'd passed it in the opposite direction. It was fully accessible now, although the towpath was slick with mud. Vicky walked up with Tiger and Leo to open the two lift bridges and Will turned in Whixhall Marina at the end of the branch, mooring between bridges one and two, opposite a field of four horses for Vicky's viewing delight 😉

    That evening we were treated to a beautiful sunset. The days had begun stretching out once again and today was Imbolc; the midway point between the winter solstice and spring equinox.

    Two days of strong gales and one of heavy rain followed. Thankfully there was a nice dog walk along the country lanes whose thick, high sided hedges sheltered us somewhat from the winds. We ventured out without the dogs to visit the bird hide we'd enjoyed so much before. Frustratingly the footpath across the fields was made all but impassable by one farmer who had removed the style and whose field was a mudbath. Fresh earth had been dumped in huge piles and Vicky sunk in up to her knee, having to crawl out. The farmyard itself was ankle deep in s**t and dirty water and we both emerged stinking and filthy.

    The smell followed us into the hide so we were glad to be the only ones in there. The birds, it seemed, had had more sense and hunkered down to wait out the bad weather. A small flock of Teal flew in to save the day and after a while watching these we made our soggy way back to the boat via the lanes. Our spirits were lifted when we spotted our first two lambs of the year gamboling and suckling!
    Les mer

  • Beautiful Blakemere

    26. januar 2024, England ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    From the urban surrounds of Ellesmere we navigated our way through the short Ellesmere tunnel and out the other end, mooring a short distance away at a beautiful lake called Blakemere.

    Blakemere is a privately owned fishing lake and there were signs banning boating, swimming and fires. Access for non club members was only from the towpath side, but in many ways this added to its beauty. The mature native woodland rose up a hillside on the opposite bank and had been left to nature. The tops of old trees had broken off leaving tall bare trunks that stood prominently in the winter light. Birdlife wasn't as abundant as it was around the feeding stations at Ellesmere, but we saw a Tree Creeper, Mallards, a lone Great Crested Grebe diving for fish and we heard owls and a woodpeker.

    Past the end of the mere, to the side of the towpath, the land became swampy, with vines and brambles trailing from branches of submerged trees. It looked really wild, as a knarled, semi-submerged tree wood would suddenly animate and you'd realise it was a crocodile lying in wait 🤣

    One afternoon Will was fishing off the stern when a couple approached and said 'that's a Cain boat isn't it!' It turned out to be the owners of Badger's Rest, built by Cain Narrowboats about a year before Rainboat. We chatted for a while and found out they live in a house nearby and can't travel full time because of work. They stay on Badger's Rest every weekend and holiday they get and are looking forward to a time they can move on board with their two blue staffies and explore more of the waterways.

    We found Blakemere to be wonderfully peaceful place with a view you could get lost in, as it that changed with the weather.
    Les mer

  • Just one more day on the Ellesmere Arm

    12. januar 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    When we returned to Ellesmere there just happened to be a mooring spot on the Arm directly behind our good friend Jenny on The Black Cat with her dog Boy and cat Amber.

    With waste and fresh water facilities and easy access to shops, pubs and eateries, many of the boaters we'd got to know along the Llangollen were spending some down-time here. Jenny also introduced us to many of the long term winter moorers. Ellesmere had a really strong feeling of community and we stayed just over the two weeks permitted by CRT.

    We used the small shops but also Will stocked up with bulk items from Tesco at the end of the Arm. Many boaters would wheel shopping trolleys along the paved towpath and load items directly into their boats via a sidehatch.

    We'd often pop over to The Black Cat for a chat and a cuppa. Leo particularly enjoyed going for cuddles with his Aunty Jenny. Boy was so tolerant of him stealing his Mum for half an hour. A real breakthrough happened when Leo allowed Boy to come on board Rainboat when Jenny came over for fish 'n' chips. He's always been agressive towards other dogs who dare set foot on his floating home.

    Directly outside our window was the picnic bench Jenny scattered bird food on each day. We added our grain and mealworms and watched with great enjoyment as the sparrows, dunnocks, tits, robins, magpies, pigeons and even the odd squirrel came and feasted. We even recorded results for the Big Garden Birdwatch.

    We met Jenny's friend Irene one day when we were having a cuppa on The Black Cat. She popped her head in while on a walk with her adorable Scottie dog Hattie. She lives in town and had offered Jenny a lift into Oswestry to get her phone repaired. Vicky tagged along with them and picked up three of her photos she'd had printed at an art shop. Ellesmere Framers did a good job mounting them in their A3 frames and added mirror clips to the sides to secure them firmly to Rainboat's sloping walls. The motorhome didn't really have space for Vicky's photos so it is a real pleasure to have some on the walls once again.

    Irene was so kind to give us a lift and she and Vicky bonded over their creative hobbies. It turned out Irene had trained as a jeweler. Though retired now and despite being busy she was happy to fix a silver ring of Vicky's and tried to refuse any payment. We meet the most wonderful souls on our travels, we really do.

    Will had been racking his brains for some while as to what to do for his 70th birthday. Things couldn't be organised much in advance because we didn't know where we'd be and Rainboat would get crowded quickly if we started inviting people on board to celebrate. Back in Llangollen we'd both really enjoyed the boaters' christmas get-together at Bensons pub so Will invited everyone we knew in Ellesmere to The White Hart pub a few days before his actual birthday. There was no pressure amd it turned into a brilliant evening with just the right number of people (and plenty of dogs). Half a dozen more who had intended to come gave their apologies. We got to know the boating community and Irene better and had a real laugh. The Hart didn't do food but was happy for us to bring in pizzas from the nearby takeaway at Ellesmere Hotel.

    On the big day Vicky managed not to burn the birthday boy's bacon sarnie and we took the dogs for a walk round the shore of The Mere. After burgers at The Red Lion we chilled in the afternoon, opening presents and talking to family and friends before homemade pizza and drinks.

    All feelings of ennui we'd had before arriving in Ellesmere had evaporated. It wasn't the prettiest of places but the feeling of community really boosted our spirits. We'd not intended to stay long but kept finding ourselves saying 'just another day' until our two weeks were up. Thank you Ellesmere 💕
    Les mer

  • The farm at bridge 67

    11. januar 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    We forgot to take a piccie for this one. It was just a short trip and a mooring out in the middle of nowhere a few hundred metres away from a farm on the opposite bank.

    There wasn't much to do on site and the weather was dry and calm so we paddled Little Green the canoe into Ellesmere, about 2.5 miles away and had lunch at Pete's Café. It was a small canteen style setup whose windows were steamed up and whose seats were full with locals. The servers were older and had the place running very efficiently. They knew what they were about and the simple food was good. We bumped into Jenny and Boy but needed to get back so Leo and Tiger Lilly weren't left for too long so we declined her kind offer of a cuppa.

    It felt really relaxing to get a bit of paddling in. We hope to do more as the weather improves.
    Les mer

  • Below New Marton Locks

    8. januar 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    For months we had the goal of reaching Llangollen Basin by Christmas. Juggling planned and unplanned canal closures together with the winter weather. Since our New Year mooring at Froncysyllte we've not had a short term travel goal to keep us moving forwards and we've felt a bit lost without it. We're retracing our steps, seeing sights we've seen before. Don't get us wrong, these sights are beautiful, but we're struggling to transition from a feeling of 'doing' to one of 'just being'.

    We worked our way through two locks and stopped soon after the second on a stretch of towpath which we hoped wouldn't be too muddy. Nici and Sharon with Jackson the Staffy on Delta (aka The Beanie Boat) came past after a while and moored a little further along.
    Les mer

  • The Poachers Pocket

    7. januar 2024, Wales ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    We were thankfull to see the towpath outside The Poachers had very little mud on it and the dogs were very excited, racing up and down. The pub seemed popular and had access directly from the canal so we went in with Leo and Tiger Lilly around 4pm for a drink. The dogs got fussed by customers but when we got to the bar we were apologetically informed they were closed from now on for a month of repairs! What timing! Oh well.

    The nearest shop was 15 min walk away; a Dobbies that had expanded to host a food court and an outlet village selling Wierd Fish and Cotton Traders clothing amongst other brands. It was expensive but we got some flour and arborio rice that we hadn't been able to get on our last few shops. Part of the Llangollen Canal's beauty lies in its rural surroundings but with these come longer trips to services and often more expense.
    Les mer

  • Chirk cutting

    5. januar 2024, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    With the aqueduct closed there wasn't so much to keep us at Froncysyllte. The weather has thankfully become drier so we chugged on, through the Whitehouse Tunnel and over the Chirk Aqueduct into England. From here the canal course leads through a deep cutting before plunging once underground once again. We moored just before the entrance to the Chirk Tunnel, with the town just 10 minutes away.

    We needed to stock up, so walked in that afternoon. Chirk has a Spar and a smattering of small shops including a gorgeous quilting and embroidery shop, a proper greengrocers and a pet foods store. About a mile away from our mooring there was a small Co-op and a fish n chip shop that we got takeaway from. The shopkeepers seemed particularly friendly and happy to chat. The pet store owner recommended a visit to Chirk Castle and even gave us an out of date Chirk calendar with photos of the local area.

    A well signed path took us over muddy fields up the hill to Chirk Castle, a National Trust property 1.5 miles away. The gardens were open for anyone to view and it really lifted our spirirts to find a few roses and snowdrops in flower. We don't know whether the castle rooms were open but we enjoy the outdoors more so didn't enquire.

    Although Chirk cutting was an impressive spot, with tall trees arching over its steep slopes. However, it was wet and dark. The towpath was covered in thick mud and decaying leaf litter meaning the dogs didn't want to go out and Leo was up all night each night barking at the owls. Unfortunately the bad outweighed the bad here so we moved on.
    Les mer

  • Froncysyllte

    29. desember 2023, Wales

    Once the festivities were over a few boaters began drifting away from Llangollen basin but most stayed at least a few days to rest and recover. The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct was due to close on 2nd January so those like us who wanted to continue travelling needed to be on the far side by then. We left in what seemed like a mass exodus, directly Paul, Antony and Dexter on Morning Star and Tom, Sharon, Cari and Rocky on Uisce Beo.

    The Sun at Trevor is widely known as a great place to eat and drink. Sitting above the A539 Will had passed it countless times over the years when travelling to Bala in the campervan. We stopped for lunch and weren't disappointed. Greeted with a waggly tail as we stepped inside we chatted with the friendly landlord and took the menus to a table in the bay window overlooking the canal and valley. There were plenty of vegan choices for Vicky and local meat for Will. There was even a special doggy menu! It was a shame not to have the dogs with us, but Leo was still struggling to contain himself from all the festive hype and a trip to the pub wouldn't have helped him.

    Back on our way, the current carried us with it and it didn't seem long before we were swinging hard right at Trevor Basin to face the aqueduct. With calls of encouragement from Jackie, Fleur, Bob, Sharon and Nicci who'd come out for a walk, Will made the turning in one and we were once again crossing the Pontcysyllte. We moored with a group of boaters from the basin just a few hundred yards later at the small village of Froncysyllte.

    The rain poured and poured and poured over the coming days. We had no need to travel, for which we were thankfull but we were starting to get a bit of cabin fever. The towpath was flooded and neither Tiger nor Leo wanted to go out. At least the rain put off revellers from releasing many fireworks on New Years Eve!

    On New Years Day the rain took a break and a flood of people came to visit the aqueduct before it closed. At midday there was a charity tug of war, with opposing teams facing each other over the canal! We made the most of the dry weather with a canoe paddle over the aqueduct. It actually felt more secure than on Rainboat because we wete lower down compared to the edge.
    Les mer

  • Christmas in Llangollen

    21.–29. des. 2023, Wales ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    Our final leg of the journey to Llangollen was delayed slightly due to a tree fallen over the canal, but thankfully the CRT worked quickly and put out a notice that was cleared. The sun shone on the steep slopes of Welsh hills, throwing much of our passage through the valleys into chilly shade.

    Nearing the town there were two sections of 'narrows' where the channel was only a little bit wider than boats. Vicky and Tiger walked ahead with the radio to check there were no oncoming craft. Past a certain point, all moorings, whether on the towpath or in the basin cost £12 a night, but this included electricity and a water point. We spent the first night on the towath, from where we could look down through bare tree branches to to town. The next day we checked out the basin on foot. It has finger moorings with the potential disadvantage that we'd have boats moored either side of us but the grassy area for the dogs to run and the bright, open aspect with views of nearby hills won us over straight away.

    Over the next week we reacquainted ourselves with Llangollen's long mainstreet and lanes off to either side. It has a great many independent stores as well as an Aldi and a Home Sense a short walk out along the Dee. Will picked up his christmas order at the butchers and we enjoyed pastries, including a giant Welsh Oggy from 'The Oggy Shop'. Vicky remembered visiting a craft shop some 15 years previously and was heartened to talk with the lovely couple who were still running it, although now they were winding down stock for a well earned retirement.

    Llangollen basin had been many boaters' destination for christmas and it filled a little more each day. There was a wonderful community spirit and a couple of pub meetups organised. Paul, Antony and their elderly dog Dexter from Narrowboat Life Unlocked moored a couple of pontoons down while Rich, Fran and their two dogs from Floating Our Boat chose the towpath.

    We were overjoyed that Ali came to celebrate Christmas eve and the big day with us. We kept him busy with a walk beyond the basin along the non navigable stretch of canal to the meter house that siphons water from the River Dee at the Horseshoe Falls wier. On the way we explored the famous 'Chain Bridge' and watched kayakers braving the swollen rapids.

    On Christmas Day we hiked up to Castell Dinas Brân, the ruined hill fort above Llangollen. The views were spectacular and the old stone arches framed them beautifully.

    Will outdid himself in the galley and produced three delicious wellingtons with far to many trimmings to mention for Christmas dinner.

    Ali departed on Boxing Day and we used the last of the good weather to revisit Horseshoe Falls, using the canoe to get there this time. Our final adventure was a 'Mince Pie Special' trip on the Llangollen railway. A steam train chugged along all the way to Corwen. The smell of burning coal, the clunk clunk of wheels turning on the track, the whoosh and whistle as clouds of thick steam shot out the chimney and plumed in quickly evaporating clouds elicited a childhood nostalgia in the passengers and made for a really good journey despite the rain.
    Les mer

  • Ruabon Branch, Trevor, Wales

    16. desember 2023, Wales ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    With little rain and wind, today was a good day to travel. The further we cruised the steeper the terrain around us became, but an embankment kept the canal straight amd level.

    Approaching the small village of Chirk Bank it was time to stop for lunch. We saw the channel ahead narrow so Will pulled over and Vicky walked ahead with Tiger and Leo to see if it widened out. It didn't, so we stayed put. After eating Will popped to the Post Office and little farm shop while Vicky rested.

    Returning from the shops Will was really on edge. Ahead of us lay the towering Chirk and Pontcysyllte Aqueducts and today was the only day there wasn't high winds. Despite feeling knackered, Vicky agreed it was best we tackled them today, so much to Tiger's disappointment we untied the mooring ropes and ploughed on.

    First came Chirk Aqueduct. 220m long, it reaches 21m above the valley and spans the English Welsh border. The nearby viaduct runs even higher and added to the dramatic scenery. Immediately after crossing we turned all the lights on, blasted our horn and plunged into Chirk Tunnel. 421m long, its portals and basin are a Grade II listed structure. A towpath runs throughout but the channel is shallow and only wide enough for one boat. The current was against us and at 2mph it almost cancelled out Rainboat's engine at tickover. It pushed the bow over to one side so we needed to steer her several degrees away from where we wanted to go, moving forward with the boat at an angle. It was very odd but we later watched several boating vlogs that assured us we weren't the only ones!

    Next came Whitehouses Tunnel; similar to Chirk but shorter at 175m. The light had begun to fade as we approached Pontcysyllte Aqueduct but we were both on a high with excitement. As one of the 7 wonders of the canals we'd known about it for some time and were really looking forward to experiencing it. At 307m it is the longest aqueduct in Great Britain. Towering 38m above the roaring River Dee, it is the tallest canal aqueduct in the world. With 18 stone arches it is a Grade I listed structure and part of a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the Seven Wonders of the Waterways.

    Will got the drone set up and Vicky put on all the christmas lights to cross the 'Stream in the Sky'. Cast iron railings guard the towpath side but there is nothing but a 6 inch lip between the channel and the valley below. It was exhilarating! We passed over a meadow and the treeline that separated it from the Dee that had burst its banks and rushed over its uneven bed with white waves. What a special experience.

    Now on Trevor, Will walked ahead to find a mooring spot and radioed Vicky to say there was a quiet spot at the end of the short Ruabon Branch coming directly off the basin at the end of the aqueduct. It took a lot of concentration to steer between the Anglo Welsh boats parked on both sides of the channel and at times Rainboat's hull scraped against theirs on both sides. The peaceful and sheltered pocket park at the end was worth it though. The dogs enjoyed stretching their legs while we moored to bollards. We got the fire lit, closed all the blinds and sunk into the sofa to process and revel in the day's adventures.

    During our stay we walked over and under the aqueduct in the beautiful Dee valley took a hike up the hill to Tesco, enjoying views of even more of the surrounding countryside unfolding beneath us.

    The Thomas Telford pub was close by and obviously popular with locals and visitors alike. They'd gone all out with Christmas decorations but the food wasn't great, with Vicky being offered a brie and cranberry dish and several types of meat and cheese salad as vegan options 😵‍💫 The Duke of Wellington was a bit out of the centre and empty when we first went in but the landlady chatted away to us and knocked up some simple but tasty lunch. A regular came in for their afternoon nip of whisky but otherwise we didn't see anyone. The landlady was on her way out to work at another pub and was talking about calling it a day after New Year. With increased overheads the business just wasn't making enough 😢
    Les mer

  • The Narrowboat Inn

    13. desember 2023, England ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Just after 9am we met Lockie Gareth who helped work us up the 4 Frankton Locks. Will gave him one of his homemade mince pies as thanks and we turned left off the Montgomery Canal and back on to the Llangollen.

    It was about 5°C but it was pretty windy so we didn't cruise much further. Even so, Vicky got chilled standing at the tiller and it took her several hours to get her core temperature warmed up.

    The Narrowboat Inn had its own mooring spot but it was close to an A road so we carried on and found a grassy spot just before a fallen ash tree that blocked the towpath.

    It was Leo's 5th birthday so after we'd had a rest we walked back to the pub with him nestled in Vicky's jacket. Will needed to carry Tiger half the way too because the hedge trimmers had left spikey hawthorn and dog rose sticks accross the path. Elsewhere our boots got sucked into deep mud where the drainage ditches had been overwhelmed. Tiger would have been in it up to her belly!

    A boater we'd passed earlier had asked if we'd seen the fuel boat and Will was just saying how typical it would be if it passed while we were in the pub when we spotted it refueling another boat. We decided to forgoe the drink but when we talked to the driver he said he'd be happy to fill us up while we were in the pub and leave the bill to be paid by BACS! Best of both worlds. We gave him the combination to the lock and asked him to put the bill through the cat flap. It was only £1.12 per litre, a lot cheaper and easier than pulling into a marina.

    The Narrowboat was an unsusual pub with a long saloon of rectangular tables. They'd invested in the theme with traditional canal painting on the placemats, plates and walls, canal scenes in frames and various boat oddments like pipes, knotted rope etc.

    It was full of a group of around 30 pensioners enjoying a christmas meal. We sat near the bar so Leo could enjoy watching watching people as they passed by and even get a few strokes from admirers. We returned the following day for lunch but were disappointed with canteen type food that seemed to have been frozen and reheated. Still, the landlord was friendly and we had a good time nonetheless.
    Les mer

  • Weston Branch Take 2

    11. desember 2023, England ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    With our return to the Llangollen Canal booked for Wednesday, we had limited time. Today was the only good weather for cruising so we chugged along to the end of the navigable section of The Monty, winded and retraced our route back to the lovely quiet mooring at Weston Branch.

    Coming back up Aston Locks Vicky noticed the bilge pumping water out of the engine bay. Will had noticed it earlier too. There had been a lot of rain which could have drained down, but the the water seemed worryingly clean. When Will was back on board Vicky went to the bedroom where the tank is and listened. Damn, the water pump was on constantly which meant we had a leak in the system. Checking in the little hole Lainy out boat builder had cut for us she found the area under the floor to be dry. The pipes under both of the sinks were also dry right down to the floor and there was no water to be seen around the washing machine. When we eventually moored Will took the top off the engine bay while Vicky flicked the pump on and off. He soon found a jubilee clip that had been knocked off a pipe which was spraying water. It was awkward to get to but he managed to reposition the pipe and tighten the clip, fixing the leak. Phew!
    Les mer

  • Maesbury Marsh

    8. desember 2023, England ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We set out before sunrise in an effort to dodge the strong winds forecast in the afternoon. Despite dreariness of the light and colours it felt fantastic to be on a new canal, travelling between empty fields, watching a large orange winter sun peaking above the horizon through the spindly branches of leafless trees.

    The Monty has a grass towpath most of the way so wellies were best worn at the locks we did. The three Aston locks had a wetland nature reserve running alongside with an information boards by each lock. There were a couple of hides and walkways we would have loved to visit but thought it more important we get to our intended mooring safe and sound.

    There are only 12 boats allowed to visit The Monty at any one time and we're sure that in summer there'll be waiting lists. One advantage of winter cruising is that we didn't see anyone else on the water. We were especially glad of this when squeezing through swathes of rushes that narrowed the channel to one boat width. Despite the recent deluges we found ourselves grounded at several points and even hit submerged rocks / concrete. Rainboat isn't a particularly deep draughted boat either! Many pinch points like bridges were on bends. At some it was near impossible to steer the front of the boat clear of the bank ahead while the stern had so little wiggle room. Despite its beauty and peacefulness Tiger Lilly gave The Monty a definite paws down for all the bumps and scrapes we had.

    Tied up opposite The Navigation Inn was the first leisure boat we'd seen, with 3 more permanent moorings further down. We pulled up and that evening went for a meal. 'The Navvy' is a very homely, welcoming pub. Its small front room was chilly but a log fire was just getting going, warming us up nicely. Mark and Brent run the business but in Covid they had to reduce hours and get other jobs to keep it going. It is only open Thursday- Saturday from 6pm and Sunday from noon. It had a fantastic vegan range and even had a seperate doggy menu! Unfortunately Leo had to stay home because he's been a bit strung out lately. We enjoyed it so much we booked again for Sunday lunch (two people and two dogs). We were really looking forward to it but Vicky's ME got in the way and we had to cancel in the end.

    The weather and Vi's health meant we didn't really get out explore otherwise. A couple we got chatting to in the pub had recommended Canal Central a short walk away that did good cake but it wasn't to be.
    Les mer

  • Montgomery Canal, Weston Branch

    8. desember 2023, England ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Will had booked our entry to the Montgomery Canal between 9am-1pm but we'd had no communication about specific arrangements. A few minutes to 9am Vicky discovered Tiger had peed on the sofa. Neither of the dogs like being outdoors in the cold, wet or wind and we guess yesterday's afternoon cruise had thrown her off kilter. Still, it infused stress and grumpiness into the uncertainty over how the morning would go.

    Lockie Gareth turned up as Vicky was scrubbing the sofa. Will set about untying mooring lines and Leo set about barking his head off. Poor Gareth didn't get the cheeriest of welcomes but he wasn't phased. We soon got into the first of the 4 Frankton Locks and relaxed into a friendly chat. We got the lowdown on where all the services and good pubs were. Knowing we wanted to moor up before the weather front hit, Gareth recommended the Weston Branch, shortly aftert the final lock. A local fisher welcomed us and helped pull Rainboat into the side against the strong wind. Apparently the silt stirred up by boat propellers gets the pike active and biting!

    We could access only around 100m of Weston Branch but the disused part, shallow and clogged with weed, stretched out a lot further. We spent the rest of the day huddling indoors next to the fire as wind and rain blasted the tough little trees, hedges and sodden fields around us.
    Les mer

  • Frankton Junction

    6. desember 2023, England ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Will is in charge of route planning and has never been more on top of the weather forecast. Rain makes cruising miserable and winds make it very difficult. We waited for the worst of the weather to pass and set off from Ellesmere after lunch.

    It was a smooth cruise with no locks or bridges to Frankton Junction, where we turned left and had to break the ice to moor at the top of Frankton Locks on the Montgomery Canal. There was still enough daylight to take the dogs on a short and muddy circular walk around the junction, crossing the two road bridges over the Llangollen and the lock bridge on the Monty.

    This Shrewsbury waterway extends 33 miles to Newtown but was closed in 1936 when the transport of lime and coal was no longer profitable enough to maintain it. Restoration began in phases in 1987 and is ongoing. At present only 7 miles is accessible to narrowboats from the Llangollen and passage must be booked in advance as there is a limit to the number of vessels allowed on at any one time.
    Les mer