A Birthday in Champagnole

Champagnole, France Wed Oct 2nd

One of the amazing things about travel is the unexpected treasures and unforgettable experiences that can lie in wait around the next bend. Last night we stayed in a renovated 16th century pub near Flavigny. When we made the booking, we did not know what to expect and it was with some degree of trepidation that we pulled up outside the door at around 5 pm. A tug on the door showed it to be locked tight - not a great sign when you are miles from anywhere and needing a room for the night. After a few more knocks on the door, it was opened by a diminutive gent who exclaimed in a distinctly non-French voice "You must be the Australians". I had not expected to hear a thick Scotch accent in this part of the world but, over the next few hours, we learnt something of his life story.

Andy had been searching the Internet 4 years ago when he saw an advert for a dilapidated pub in rural France. Although he did not speak a word of French at the time, he found himself the owner of the place and then set about a labour of love restoring the place. Although the job is not complete the current state of Le Soleil d'Or is a testimony to what hard work and a vision can achieve. Our room was absolutely delightful and the opportunity to speak English after weeks of struggling with my pidgin French was a real treat.

This morning we said goodbye to Andy (and his noisy donkey) and left him standing by the roadside waving us on our way. We then began the 200 km trip to Champagnole on our way to Switzerland. Much of the way was on one of the mighty toll ways. Sitting at 130 kph on the wrong side of the road is an exciting experience but one that I would not like to see replicated on the Monash Freeway.

The countryside here is green and so lush and beautiful. Some parts reminded me of the Dandenongs, with another 1000 years or so of history thrown in for good measure. Today was Maggie's birthday so we stopped by the roadside for a Birthday Picnic, eating baguettes, French lemonade and patisseries. It was something we will both remember for a long time.

Tomorrow, we continue on our way into Switzerland.Read more