• The World on Two Wheels
авг. – окт. 2024

2024 Epic Elbe Adventure

Our plan for this ride is simple - ride from Hamburg to Vienna, following the Elbe, Vltava and Danube Rivers. The 1400 km ride will take us across Germany, Czechia and Austria. Will our team of 20 geriatric riders make the distance ? Time will tell. Читать далее
  • Начало поездки
    26 августа 2024 г.

    Three Months and Counting

    22 мая 2024 г., Австралия ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    It's hard to believe that, in only three months' time, I will be heading back to the airport with another suitcase bulging with clothes, cycling gear and a multitude of electronic gadgets. Only 7 months ago we were heading back from Paris, after our first European rides since Covid shut the world down in 2020. Now I am about to head back for yet another crazy extended ride. Surely at my advanced age I would have finally learnt better. Obviously not.

    Fortunately, at this point (I hope) most of the key planning has been completed. My flights are booked, travel insurance has been purchased, hotels booked and the itinerary has been finalised. All of my paperwork has been carefully filed in a bulging folder. I have even purchased SIM cards for using in my phone while we are traveling. What could possibly go wrong ?

    If you are reading this, then you are invited to share this new ride with me. You might not be able to join me on the plane or the bike, but hopefully my written ramblings might help you get some idea of what we are doing over there each day.
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  • Two Months to Go

    26 июня 2024 г., Австралия ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Now that we have entered the final countdown to departure, it is worth mentioning that this trip almost never got started. After putting together so many overseas cycling trips, it can still be hard to tell whether it will be hard or easy to make each concept into a reality.

    We had previously ridden the Vltava and Elbe Rivers from Prague to Dresden, so I had a little idea of what to expect, however I wanted this ride to go much further than Dresden. I looked at a succession of towns along the Elbe, downstream of Dresden.

    After considering that we could extend the ride as far as Magdeburg, I then started to dream a little larger. If we were going to ride to Magdeburg, why not just follow the Elbe all the way to its mouth ? It sounded simple. It proved to be anything but simple, especially when I also decided that, instead of starting in Prague, we could go the whole hog and start in Vienna instead.

    I started looking seriously to see if any other travel companies offered such a ride. It was soon evident that, if we were to do this ride, we would most likely be the first group to undertake it. There were going to be serious logistical challenges, especially with a group size of around 20 riders.

    For many months I worked with UTRACKS and various European adventure travel operators to find a workable solution. Along the way, the ride direction got reversed. Instead of starting in Vienna and riding through to Hamburg, we would be doing the ride the other way round. This of course meant that we would be riding upstream (and hence uphill), however we would have the assist of the prevailing winds at that time of the year.

    On several occasions the challenge of putting the ride together almost became too great. It was at this time that Jaclyn Lofts got involved. Jaclyn was for many years the Sales Manager for UTRACKS, but had recently moved across to the World Expeditions branch. Although she was no longer directly involved in European rides, her extensive experience in that area helped to get the final hurdles sorted out. We finally had a workable plan, and a local operator who was prepared to make it all work.

    The rest is history. When I conducted the Information Meeting, the initial 16 spaces filled immediately. Somehow the final group has now grown to over 20 riders, so it will be quite a team when we finally start pedaling our way out of Hamburg.

    Since that meeting a year has now passed by. Flights have been booked. Accommodation has been sorted. Excitement has steadily grown. In exactly two months' time I will be in the air on my way to Europe. The dream will have become a reality.
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  • Panic Stations

    9 августа 2024 г., Австралия ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I have found with every previous adventure that the pace of preparation builds to a peak as the departure date draws closer. There are always a vast number of tasks to be completed in the final few weeks. Packing is only one of the tasks, and in some ways it is the easiest. There are a many more tasks that consume a lot more time.

    In particular I have perused our proposed cycling route so many times, that I feel that I am already familiar with many of the roads, hotels and bike trails.

    Germany used to be one of the few countries on Earth that did not allow Google to film their roads for its Streetview function. I discovered a couple of months ago that this has changed. That meant that I could now do a lot of preliminary route planning with this very useful visual aid.

    I have now prepared a potential GPS track for every day of the ride, all the way from Hamburg to Vienna. Although I have now also been supplied with another set of tracks by the local operators, I am not sure which tracks I will end up using. It certainly will not hurt to have options along the way.

    With only two weeks to go until I leave, my house is starting to look like a disaster zone. I have clothing and bike gear in one room and electronic cables, chargers, cameras, etc in another. Over the next few days I will condense all this scattered gear into a single mass and then see how much of my case it will occupy.

    What else do I need ? SIM cards for local European mobile use, power adapters, connecting cables, batteries, a few clothes, cycling gear, helmet, glasses and so on. And yes, I will need cash and credit cards, travel documents, photo ID and.....and.... something else that I can't quite put my finger on.

    Oh, I just remembered what it was - my passport !
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  • Please Say it Ain't So

    18 августа 2024 г., Австралия ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    With only seven days to go till departure, everything should be well and truly sorted by now. All the hard work was done months (even years) ago. By this stage everyone just wants to finally get going.

    And that's how the script read, until a couple of days ago when I received an unexpected, and very unwelcome, email. To my horror our hotel in Litomerice had just cancelled our entire group booking ! No, you read it right - the entire group booking.

    It would not have been so bad if only one or two rooms were affected, but we had booked almost the entire hotel. Now without warning they have made the decision to hold a staff fire training session on that day, leaving us out in the cold.

    This has thrown the local operators into something of a panic. Actually, I will reword that - I should have said "a real panic". I have travelled through this region before and I know that Litomerice is not a large city. It is a modest sized town with an amazing central square, surrounded by whimsical buildings. It is almost like something out of Harry Potter, and I was looking forward to seeing the place again. Now it looks like we might have 22 Ghostriders all sleeping together under the town bridge.

    If travel teaches you anything, it is that panic is completely ineffective. I have found time and time again that there is always a solution to every problem. In a strange way, it often works out that the solution was actually better than the original plan. I sure hope that this is one of those cases.

    So, what is happening now? It is not as bleak as it could have been. We have been able to find another 9 rooms in an alternate hotel, just a short walk from the original hotel. That means that most of our riders will have somewhere to sleep after all. We are now only about 3 rooms short........

    I am sure it will all work out in the end, and we will all have a great story to tell.

    In the meantime I have been watching the weather in Hamburg and discovered that the days are currently fine and warm with a top temperature around the mid 20s. I guess we will put up with that.

    This may be the last update from Australia. I hope the airlines hasn't cancelled by flight without telling anyone.
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  • A Few Days Makes a Difference

    25 августа 2024 г., Австралия ⋅ 🌩️ 19 °C

    Just a few short days ago I received an unexpected message that our accommodation in Litomerice had been cancelled by our hotel. Potentially that left 22 Ghostriders without a room for that night. This was not the turn of events that anyone would want on the cusp of departure.

    Fortunately there has been a flurry of activity since then and, apparently, the problem has now been resolved. I have been reassured that none of our team members will be sleeping under the town bridge after all. That left me feeling a little less anxious.

    Over the past couple of days I have been working on packing and weighing my luggage. There is an old adage that "half of what you pack you will never use". While that is undoubtedly true, the problem is that you can never be sure which is the half you will not need.

    My bags are now downstairs and sitting near my front door. Tomorrow morning I will be heading off to the airport for another crazy cycling adventure. The big question is whether or not my ageing body will be able to last the distance.

    About three weeks I suddenly developed an extremely painful left heel, making it impossible to put any weight on it. While it did not seem to affect my riding, it certainly made walking seriously painful. Since then it has gradually subsided, but I still find energetic walking impossible. How will if limit me in Europe ? I guess time will tell. In the meantime I have equipped my shoes with a padded insole, to help cushion each impact.

    This will be the last update from within Australia. The next footprint will be (hopefully) from the Marriott Hotel in Hamburg. By this time tomorrow I will be in the air and on my way.

    Our team will meet together for the first time at our welcome dinner on the 31st August. That is going to be an exciting time.
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  • Hello Hamburg

    27 августа 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    I guess there is no easy way to travel half-way round the world. The earth is a big place and, even travelling at the speed of a modern jumbo jet, it takes about 24 hours of sitting in a tiny metal cylinder, feeling imaginary clots floating up and down your extremities. And yet, I am here.

    The long journey began with a customary drive to Tullamarine Airport, Fortunately at 10.30 am in the morning, the traffic on the Monash Freeway was uncharacteristically sparse. At least the first part of the long journey went by without too much stress.

    The lack of traffic meant that we arrived the airport a little earlier than anticipated. The check in counter was not yet open. I did what any sensible person would do in such a situation - went in search of a coffee shop to enjoy a coffee and a last rest before the real challenge started.

    Soon I was watching my luggage disappear into the internals of the mysterious mechanical monster and I was left wondering whether I would ever see it again. Actually before this trip I had invested in two Samsung Smart Tags and had secreted one into my cargo luggage and the other into my cabin luggage. I figured that, if either of them were to go astray, I might have some chance of seeing where they were going.

    My first flight was a relatively modest hop of around 7 hours to Singapore. By watching one movie and playing endless games of Mahjongg, I managed to survive this first challenge with most of my mental faculties intact.

    As soon as I got off the plane at Changi Airport, I loaded my Travel SIM into my phone and checked to see if my luggage had made the same journey. To my relief, the Smart Tags worked perfectly, showing me that indeed my cargo luggage was also in the same airport.

    The second leg was a much more daunting 13 hour endurance flight from Singapore to Copenhagen. I found myself seated next to a young Norwegian fellow who tried to tell me where he was going. Unfortunately, his thick accent combined with my diminished hearing, to the extent that I could not understand a word he was saying.

    As soon as we took off at around midnight, we were served a large (and surprisingly good) meal. As soon as he finished his meal, my new Scandinavian friend closed his eyes and went to sleep. He did not open them until we were about to land some 12 hours later. If there was such a thing as an Olympic sleeping event, he would be a certainty to take gold.

    As for me, I did not fare as well in the sleeping stakes, although I did manage to grab a restless 4 hours or so of slumber. The rest of the time I occupied myself by watching the track of the plane on the screen as it diverted, time and time again to avoid the ever-growing list of world trouble spots.

    Since I had the window seat, and my comatose companion blocked access to the aisle, it was a monumental challenge to maintain bladder control for that length of time. When he even refused to be wakened when they started to serve breakfast, I started to wonder that maybe he was no longer breathing at all. Surely no one sleeps that long, especially on a plane.

    He did finally awaken, just as were landing at Copenhagen. He opened his eyes and casually started getting his stuff sorted, as if nothing was unusual. I suppose for him, the entire flight would have only felt like an hour or two. Lucky guy !

    The plane landed at Copenhagen just after sunrise, and my first impressions of Denmark were very positive. By the same token I was a little anxious that my final flight would be taking off in only 50 minutes time. I first had to get off the flight, walk to the terminal building, and then find my way to the departure gate for my final flight to Hamburg. In the process I would have to face the challenge of a walk from one side of the airport to the other, and also join the huge queue at immigration. It was always going to be tight.

    I managed to do the zombie walk to the immigration counters and then tried to find the shortest queue. For a while the row of people moved forward steadily until one couple brough the entire process to a standstill. For at least ten minutes they were standing at the counter, while all the other queues were moving steadily ahead. I wondered why I had the misfortune to choose the worst line.

    It was at that point that I did the inexcusable - I jumped lines. "My plane leaves in 10 minutes", I explained to the lady that I had just pushed in front of. Fortunately, she did not reply with a torrent of abuse, and we actually had a chat about where each of us was heading to next.

    I finally escaped the inquisition at immigration and managed to arrive at the departure gate, just as the passengers were being herded into a crowded bus. I hoped that my luggage was enjoying a swifter passage to the final flight.

    We were finally squeezed into the waiting plane for the short 50 min flight to Hamburg. I was certainly glad that it was only 50 minutes, as the seats were positively miniature. It was even more of a blessing when I discovered the seat next to me was the only empty seat on the plane.

    About 45 minutes later we were already landing at Hamburg. As soon as the plane stopped, I checked the status of my Smart Tag and was relieved to see that my luggage was not far away from me. Sometimes technology is wonderful.

    About 30 minutes later my familiar blue bag appeared on the carousel and I could finally relax. Or could I ? Back in Australia I had decided that I would book a private transfer from the airport to the hotel. After a long series of flights I did not want the added challenge of trying to negotiate an unfamiliar public transport system.

    I was promised there would be a man with a sign waiting for me. There wasn't anyone in sight with such a sign. I wondered back and forth, up and down escalators and lifts, went looking for an Information Counter (and couldn't find one), and was just about to give up and jump in a taxi, when I finally had an alert on my phone. The driver was looking for me after all.

    A short time later we were united, and I was able to sit down in the back of his brand-new BMW limousine for the 40 min drive to the Marriott Hotel. The driver turned out to be a nice young guy who spoke good English and was very interested in Australia. "You have many very dangerous animals there", he stated. "Too right we do" I answered.

    Since I arrived at the hotel so early in the morning, I did not expect to be able to get access to my room for several hours. It was here that another miracle occurred. I had just started to walk down the street outside the hotel, when the reception rang me to tell me that my room was ready. It was a perfect ending to the long, long journey.

    Over the next few days, I will be joined by a steady succession of fellow team members. It will be interesting to hear their travel tales as well.
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  • Hobbling Around in the Heat

    28 августа 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Whenever you first set out in an unfamiliar city, especially one as large as Hamburg, everything seems alien and confusing. This is exactly how I felt yesterday afternoon, when I attempted my first walk outside the hotel. Of course I was not exactly in my most astute mental state. After about 40 hours of transit I was in that zombie state where even the simplest tasks take on gargantuan proportions.

    This morning, after about 8 hours of sleep, I thought I would venture out into the unknown again, hopefully with more purpose. Since the weather forecast was for a warm day, with a top temperature of 28C, I thought I would give my feet a break by wearing sandals, instead of shoes. To quote the streaker's defense "It seemed like a good idea at the time".

    So equipped with my wallet, mobile phone and GPS, I headed out the hotel door and into the unknown. I thought that a good place to begin my exploration of Hamburg would be to follow the track we will be following on the first day of our ride. It would have been simple enough in normal conditions, after all Hamburg is a flat city, so walking and navigation cannot be that hard - or can it ?

    My problem is that, about a month ago, I developed a very painful left heel. Whenever I put pressure on the heel, it hurts. In case you were not aware, it is very hard to walk without putting pressure alternately on both heels. Of course, I am not one to let a little pain get in the way of living, so off I walked (actually hobbled).

    I discovered that the route was pretty easy to follow, but the city seemed determined to tear up every street with ongoing massive roadworks. I thought that Melbourne was the only city to simultaneously start construction works everywhere, without ever actually finishing any of them, I was wrong. Everywhere I walked I was confronted by barriers, bollards and blocked roads. I found myself crossing back and forth across the road, trying to keep to my planned route.

    After about 45 minutes I saw the large bridge that told me I had reached the Elbe River. From there I could see the beginning of the cycle path that we would be following all the to Czechia. By that time the heat was getting tiresome, and my foot was complaining loudly. It was time to start heading back to the hotel.

    Rather than follow the same route I had come out on, I decided to deviate a little. It turned out to be a fortunate decision as it led me to the Holy Grail of all travelers - a street with cafes, coffee shops and a huge supermarket. I knew that I would not go hungry over the next few days.

    Enlightened by the new knowledge I had acquired, I headed back to the familiar Marriott Hotel. Just as I was almost back at the hotel door, a momentary lapse of concentration almost had catastrophic consequences. I had just crossed the final road when I somehow managed to trip on a piece of uneven footpath and almost fell forwards onto the road. It was a bit embarrassing, but I was grateful that I managed to stay upright.

    A few minutes later I was back in the familiar sanctuary of my hotel room. I could not wait to take the sandals off and have a rest in the chair. Just as I sat down, I noticed something alarming on the floor. It was a clear set of bloody footprints leading all the way to the chair I was sitting in !

    I wondered what sort of crime might have been committed in the room while I was out, so I decided to take a closer look at the blood. Somehow it looked familiar. It should be familiar as it was my own blood. When I examined my body to determine the source of the flow, I discovered that the end of my big toe was cut. Apparently, the stumble I had made outside the hotel had inflicted a bodily wound. So much for the wisdom of wearing sandals. The next walk I make will be in shoes.

    After a few minutes on my hands and knees, most of the blood was cleaned up and the room was almost back to normal. According to the GPS I had walked around 10 km, so I had not entirely wasted my time. But now it is time for a rest.
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  • The Hamburg Maritime Museum

    29 августа 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    With a predicted top temperature of 32C, I thought I would moderate the challenges I would set myself today. My toe is still suffering from the gash I inflicted on it yesterday, and my heel is still hurting with every footfall. When you combine these new ailments with an ageing body that is just steadily wearing out, there was no point in doing anything too ambitious.

    In reading about Hamburg, I had learned of two places that seemed worthy of a visit. The first of these was the Miniature World (the most popular tourist attraction in Germany), and the second was the famous Maritime Museum. Since I am already booked in to visit the former tomorrow, I thought that it would be logical to visit the latter today. Simples.

    According to Google Maps the distance from my hotel to the Maritime Museum should only be about 2 km. Well, it probably should have been that, and almost certainly would have been that if I had taken the shortest and most intelligent route. Somehow it didn't turn out that way.

    On the screen the route looked relatively simple. Surely I could not get lost? I set out with high hopes, guided by the direction of my shadow on the footpath. I figured that if I kept the shadow direction correct, it would unerringly guide me in the right direction. It was a good plan, but you know what they say about the best laid plans of mice and men? I don't know about the mice, but I did find out that this man definitely did NOT take the best route to the museum.

    After about an hour of hot walking, I figured that I should be getting pretty close to the museum. I had crossed a succession of canals that suggested I was getting closer to the harbour, but it was time to get the phone out and check with Dr Google. I was horrified to discover that somehow I had veered way off course and was actually nearly as far from the museum as I was at the very start. That was not what I wanted to learn. It was also getting HOT.

    Oh well, I had come this far, even if it was mostly in the wrong direction, so it was too late to back out now. I studied the map again and determined not to make the same silly mistake again. About 40 mins later I was finally at the museum. All I had to do was buy a ticket.

    The price board stated that there was a concession price for pensioners. This reduced the price from 17 Euro to only 12 Euro. There is sometimes a benefit to being a certified old fart, to compensate for all the other negative side effects of ageing.

    I walked to the counter and asked for "One concession ticket, please". The lady took my 20 Euro note and handed me 3 Euro change. That was not right. "I wanted a concession ticket", I pleaded, and waved my Seniors Card in her face for added impact. I suspect she could not believe that I was actually any older than about 40, so I was glad I had bought my Old Farts Card for evidence.

    A short time later I was issued the correct ticket, and pocketed my 7 Euro change. The next hour was spent wandering through the extensive exhibits that were on display. It really is worth a visit, although I was feeling too tired to take full advantage of the place. And I was well aware I still had to find my way back to the hotel. In addition, it was now at the hottest time of the day.

    After an iced coffee in the museum kiosk, it was time to face the blazing sun and make my way back to the hotel. This time I was much more diligent with my navigation and made it back without useless deviation. I was certainly glad to stagger into the cool refuge of the hotel foyer and enjoy an ice cold glass of water.

    That will do it for today. According to my calculations, we now have 8 of our team in the city, so I will be able to see some familiar faces around me.

    So, tomorrow I will be off to Miniature World. Will I be brave (silly) enough to walk, or will I find a better way to get there ?
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  • A Visit to Lilliput

    30 августа 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A couple of years ago I was pretty proud of myself when I somehow managed to assemble a small Lego model of the Eiffel Tower. That little model still occupies a prominent position in my TV room. The problem is that, after today, my little model seems pretty inconsequential.

    The destination for my Hamburgian travels today was the famous Miniature World, apparently voted as the number 1 tourist attraction in the whole of Germany. When I bought my ticket some months ago, I also decided to pay extra for the so called "VR Experience", even though at the time I had no idea what it meant.

    So today I woke up very early, and looked out the window to see the unfamiliar sight of grey skies and drizzling rain. This was in very big contrast to the hot and sunny weather we have had ever since I arrived here three days ago. So much for my idea of walking to the place. A taxi now seemed like the most sensible option.

    After a chat with the hotel concierge, a taxi was arranged, and I was soon being driven the two or three km to the Miniature World building. Located in the harbour (hafen) precinct of the city, the attraction started 23 years ago. The aim was to build the world's biggest model railway.

    Now 23 years later, they have certainly achieved that aim. With over 16 km of track at a scale of 1:87, it has developed into its own miniature fantasy land of trains, cities, harbours, stadiums, and even a huge airport. Populating this fantasy world are hundreds of thousands of tiny people. All of these have been carefully hand crafted and painted, and are posed in a myriad of different positions.

    When I stepped through the door, I found myself smiling. I couldn't help it. It was a bit like being a kid all over again, such was the wonder of this place. You just had to get closer, and just watch the fascinating variety of what was actually going on.

    Not only were the trains running, but there were also thousands of cars, all with their own headlights and taillights. The emergency vehicles all had the necessary blue flashing lights and the fire brigade were busy putting out a building fire, complete with jets of water. In Rio de Janeiro the Mardi Gras was in full throttle, complete with floats and hundreds of dancing girls. A day in Miniature World is 15 minutes long. When night comes, the place blazes with an untold number of lights.

    If Gulliver discovered the miniature land of Lilliput in his famous travels, he would have felt quite at home here.

    But of course I still had to find out about the VR Experience. I made my way through the maze of displays and finally found myself at something that looked like a portal to a parallel universe. And that is what it turned out to be.

    A small group of nervous participants were ushered into a room where we were fitted with a full body vest, hand and feet bracelets and a huge headset. As soon as the headset was put on my huge head, I found myself grappling with what I was actually seeing and feeling.

    The room was replaced by a whole vast space, complete with sound and motion. At first I did not want to move, but I discovered that we all had to work as a team to get through the course. When I looked down I found that my body was replaced by some weird yellow character. The rest of the team had also changed into similarly weird characters as well.

    What followed next was 30 minutes of terror, wonder, confusion and fun, all rolled into one. It really is possible to find yourself believing the unbelievable. Those obstacles and dangers looked so real that I had to keep telling myself that this is a fabrication. The experience was so immersive that I soon found myself sweating profusely.

    And so we faced dangers, walked tightropes and battled monsters, all against the backdrop of the displays in the building. When we finally reached the end of the challenge and were "returned back to our original size", and the helmets and other gear were removed. The weird feeling continued for some time afterwards.

    The experience had been so real that I found myself starting to ask which was real - the world we had been in, or the familiar world that we live in every day? Maybe we really are living in a matrix after all?

    We were finally shown what the room was really like where all our adventures had taken place. It was just an empty room, with a very small number of real objects that were pivotal to the experience. Another group of adventurers were having their experience, so we could watch and see just how ridiculous we must have looked.

    After exploring some more of the displays, I emerged into the outside world and found the rain had stopped. That meant I would have to walk back to the hotel, since I had no excuse to catch a taxi.

    In the attached images you can see one which shows what my group looked like in the real world, and also how we looked in the fantasy.
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  • The Team is Complete

    31 августа 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    After two years of planning and preparation, I can finally say that our long awaited Epic Elbe Cycling Adventure has now officially started. While some of the team have been steadily gathering in Hamburg over the past few days, today is officially DAY ONE of our adventure.

    Today was punctuated by a steady stream of Australian arrivals at the reception desk. As each person arrived, I could mentally tick them off in my mind. At this point of time there is only one person still in transit, and that is John Blain. John left Melbourne at the unbelievable hour of 5 am and is due to finally touch down at the Hamburg Airport at 7.30 pm.

    Tonight, we are kicking off our group activities with our first group dinner. Unfortunately, John is unlikely to arrive in time to actually eat anything, so I guess we will just have to describe it to him when he finally staggers in the door.

    After dinner we will have our first group briefing, to go through some of the plans for the next few days. Although today is day one, we still have two free days to explore and enjoy Hamburg, before we begin our ride on Tuesday morning.

    Now that our team is (almost) complete, all we have to do now is to safely get them all the way across Europe to Vienna. What a blast it will be !
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  • A Cruise on Hamburg Hafen

    1 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    With the late arrival of John Blain at around 10 pm last night, I can now report that our entire team has safely arrived in Hamburg. Since we knew that John was going to be too late to enjoy the meal he had already paid for, it seemed logical to appoint an honorary replacement for him at the meal table.

    It turns out that Sue's husband Peter is currently at the hotel. He will not be riding with us, but wanted to have the opportunity to get to know the weird people his wife will be sharing the next month. In the interests of not wasting the lovely food that had already been prepared for us, I officially asked Peter to act as John's proxy for the evening, Problem solved.

    This morning I did not feel guilty about enjoying breakfast in the hotel. From now on all our breakfasts have already been paid for in advance, so it would be a sin (and downright stupid) not to enjoy the sumptuous breakfast banquet.

    Although I initially did not have any definite plans for the day, somehow I found my feet walking back towards the harbour (hafen). After a few days in this city, I have found myself getting a little more confident about finding my way around with each passing day. Once you start to recognise familiar landmarks, you start to build a mental map of the place.

    So I walked, walked and then walked some more. I soon found myself in the middle of a multitude of sporty looking people, apparently running a marathon. For a microsecond I was tempted to join them, until I realised how stupid an idea that would be. Walking is hard enough.

    After about three and a half km I arrived at the Hafenrundfahrt. This is an unnecessarily long and fancy name for a ferry terminal. I decided that it might be a good idea to take a cruise around the harbour. Several others in our group had already done it and recommended it as a worthwhile thing to do.

    I saw a sign that said something like "tickets", walked in, handed over 33 Euro and walked out with a piece of paper. The girl spoke no English and could not answer any of my questions about how I should go about finding the boat I had just bought a ticket for. The best she could do was point, and say "200 metres".

    She was obviously a bald-faced liar. It was nothing like 200 metres, at least not with the metres I am familiar with. It must have been at least 500 metres, and the ticket instructions showed a departure time of 11.30am. That was about 5 minutes after I bought the ticket.

    As it turned out, I needn't have worried. When I arrived at the boat, I was one of the first on board. It never actually started until it was full of people, well after 12 noon.

    I must admit that the cruise was visually interesting, however I learnt absolutely nothing about the harbor as the non-stop commentary was only in German. The harbor is absolutely huge with massive docks and loading facilities. I was also surprised at the size of the container ships and ocean cruisers that can be accommodated. The Elbe must really be massive at this point.

    After cruising for 2 hours, the sun started to get quite warm, and I was looking forward to getting back onto dry land again. I still had around 4 km to walk back to the hotel, so I was rather spent when I finally arrived back at my room.

    I have made the mental decision that tomorrow I will do almost nothing, apart from sort all the gear that I will need for the bike. The following day is when we begin the long ride to Vienna.
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  • außenalster

    2 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    There are two large artificial lakes within the city limits of Hamburg, the larger one is called the außenalster. Both of these lakes were formed by the Alster River and now provide a beautiful venue for water sports and outdoor activities.

    Although I did not have any plans for today, once again I found my feet had a mind of their own. I was soon walking along the linear parkland near the hotel and heading towards the lake. It turned out to be a perfect way to spend my last day in Hamburg.

    Once again, the weather was absolutely perfect - sunny with a top temperature of around 25C. This was a huge contrast to the news we have been hearing about the wild weather that has been buffeting the southern states of Australia for the past four days. The weather here could not have been better, and we are all hoping that it will continue for the next 4 weeks.

    Tomorrow we finally get to be acquainted with the bicycles which will be our daily conveyance all the way to Vienna. There is always an air of trepidation when you are waiting to see whether the bikes will be fit for purpose or not.

    This afternoon I went through my luggage, sorting my gear and separating all the items that I will need for the ride. I managed to find everything, except for my cycling gloves. Although I was certain I could remember packing them, they appeared to have just vanished.

    I pulled everything out of my case and started to go through every package, eventually finding that the missing gloves had been packed with my socks. I wonder which moron did that ? Oh, I remember, it was me.
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  • The Best and Worst of Times

    3 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The Worst and Best of Times
    To steal a phrase from the immortal Charles Dickens “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times”. That sums up the last 24 hours pretty accurately.

    Late yesterday afternoon I received the sort of news that no group leader ever wants to hear. One of our group participants – Sue Rose, had suffered a bad fall while exploring Hamburg and had been taken to the emergency hospital by ambulance. Further examination and Xrays showed the she had broken the neck of her femur and would require emergency surgery to repair the break.

    In one moment it meant that her dream of riding the Elbe had been snatched away,

    This was devastating news for Sue, but also for the entire group. After looking forward to the trip for the past year, it was hard to believe that she would not even get to turn the pedals even once.

    This morning the remaining 20 riders checked out of the hotel and met the representatives of Ruckenwind who will be handling the logistics of our mammoth ride. To our rlief the staff were very professional and, when we received the bikes, all agreed that there would be no complaints in that regard. The bikes were brand new quality bikes from Velo de Ville.

    After a protracted time setting the bikes up, packing panniers, etc, we finally got underway at about 10.30am. The first challenge was to navigate out of a major city, safely and without losing any more of our team members.

    After about 30 minutes we finally reached the banks of the Elbe, the mighty river that is to form the theme of most of our ride. We were accompanied by several members of the Ruckenwind team, who made sure that we would be pointed in the right direction, Somewhat confusingly we never followed the track that we had all been given for the first day of the ride. This meant that GPS units were continuously beeping as they had to recalculate the route.

    Following the obligatory group photo shoot, we continued under a hot and cloudless sky. Our destination for the first day was Lauenburg, but it stubbornly refused to get any closer.

    We eventually bounced our way the final km to the hotel over a very uneven cobblestoned road. It had been a challenging first day, but everything feels better after a shower and a good meal.

    No one will have trouble sleeping tonight, that is for sure.

    Pictures to follow
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  • Into East Germany

    4 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Today's ride took us across the old border into East Germany. Although the old days of the Cold War are long gone, there are still some remnants of those awful times, in the form of lookout towers and checkpoint buildings

    Once again we started with a cool morning, but by midday the sun was HOT. This made the challenge of riding around 60 km much harder than it would have been in cooler conditions.

    Today we broke the group into two smaller groups of 10, and this really made for easier logistics throughout the day. We also stayed close to the recommended route, so there was was far less confusion in knowing which path to follow.

    Most of the afternoon ride was along a concrete path on the top of a levee bank. The path seemed endless and the km passed by oh so slowly in the afternoon heat.

    We stopped for two extended breaks along the way, and these were an essential opportunity to rehydate and cool down a little.

    Our destination was the magical town of Hitzacker, full of quaint half timbered houses. The hotel was at the top of an elevated position, so the ebikes were really appreciated at that point.

    It has been hard to upload images because of the poor Internet speed here.
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  • The Head Wind from Hell

    5 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    When I was planning this trip, I was assured that the preferred direction was to ride from Hamburg to Vienna. The reason for this recommendation was because "the prevailing winds all come from the west". We were assured that we would be helped on our way by a friendly tail wind. Even the name of the company that is handling all our logistics is Ruckenwind, meaning tailwind.

    We now know that they all lied. For the first few days of our ride there was no wind at all. We would have welcomed a gentle breeze to help cool us down, but we were stuck in some sort of sweltering doldrum. That all changed this morning.

    At first, we were excited to feel the wind on our faces, although it would have been better to feel it on our backsides. We also were all well aware that it was going to be the longest day of the ride so far. At somewhere between 75 and 80 km, that shouldn't have been too hard. It turned out to be brutal.

    The first few km were not so bad, as we had some shade from the sun and protection from the wind. It was only about the 35 km point that the true nature of our terrible adversary became apparent. It was evil, it was unrelenting, it was soul destroying and battery draining.

    I got my first taste of impending disaster when a big blast of hot wind threw my bike to the ground while we were having lunch. That would not normally have been such a disaster, but the rear pannier contained a large glass bottle, containing my water for the day.

    When I stood the bike up again, someone commented that my pannier was leaking. The bottle had shattered, leaving all my gear soaking wet and covered in broken glass. I had to spend some time going through all the contents, removing the glass and drying out my gear. It was a portent of much worse times to come.

    We soon found ourselves back riding on an elevated levee bank, with the demonic wind right in our faces. It went on and on (and on). At times I found that I could hardly make any headway at all. It was horrible. The worst part was the route map showed that we would be riding into this enemy for the next 35 km.

    The only way to have any hope of success was to stop often, and avail ourselves of every drink/ice cream stop along the way. I watched my battery start to drop 30%, 20%, red lights flashing. Somewhere in my body, my own red light was also flashing. Disaster was looming.

    If the wind was not bad enough, our slow progress was hampered even further by a couple of roadblocks on the bike path, meaning a couple of energy sapping deviations.

    About 8 km from our destination the inevitable happened - my battery failed completely. I battled on with only my own willpower to keep me moving. In my head a little voice kept asking "Why do we do this ? Why do we do this?"

    It was at this point that Neill demonstrated kindness by offering to swap his battery (7% remaining) with my depleted battery 0% remaining). Normally I might have declined such an offer, but what the hell, I was too stuffed to be proud. "I'll take it", I said. And I did.

    Somehow our little peloton made it to the hotel in Wittenberge, and we were delighted to find that the hotel was the best we had stayed in so far. It even had a lift!!

    After a long, glorious shower and a short rest, we were all gathered for dinner outside under the stars. It was a great way to relive the day's challenges and congratulate each other on what we had done. For a group of riders, mostly in their 70s and 80s, I think that they should all be rightly proud. It really had been a challenging day. Just as well we are only riding 18 km tomorrow !
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  • The Easy Day that Wasn't

    6 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today was meant to be an easy day. In fact it was meant to be the easiest day of the entire Epic Elbe Ride. With a distance to be travelled of a measly 20 km, we all anticipated that we could enjoy a late start and a leisurely ride.

    While the late start was enjoyed, it was then that the hotel informed us of a few small problems with our rooms. This necessitated a few late changes of plans, a trip into town to search the pharmacies and supermarkets, and an actual start after 12 noon.

    Although the day was quite warm, to our relief much of the route was shaded by nearby trees, making the ride pleasant and relatively easy. Rather than following the elevated levee which had left us exposed on the past two days, the trees also gave us blessed relief from the unrelenting wind. The forecast is for another two of these hot days, before the sequence finally comes to an end, with temperatures predicted to drop by around 10C.

    Our destination for the day was the resort town of Bad Wilsnack. The hotel was big, clean and comfortable. It even had a lovely lift. The entire hotel was surrounded by a sprawling treed garden, offering a lovely place to enjoy the afternoon.

    Tomorrow is our first designated rest day. This will give us all a chance to recover our energy, wash our clothes, explore the town on foot, or enjoy a spa or massage. It will also give us an excuse to sleep in a little in the morning.
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  • Resting in Bad Wilsnack

    7 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    If I have learnt anything at all from our previous 50 overseas adventures, it is how important it is to include regular rest days. It is not easy moving from place to place every day, especially when you are doing it by bicycle. It is even harder when there is a ferocious head wind trying to fight you every inch of the way.

    I think there was a collective sigh of relief at the prospect of facing a new day, with no definite commitments in it. Everybody is free to pursue their own interests, catch up on correspondence and laundry, or just rest.

    Tomorrow we resume the ride along the Elbe, and the weather forecast is for yet another hot day. At least that looks like it will bring an end to the current heatwave. Our route will also begin to veer to the south, meaning that we might also be less impeded by the winds. Time will tell.
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  • Every Man and His Horse

    8 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    When this trip was originally being put together, we were meant to spend a night in Havelberg. This plan was changed a few months ago, when we were informed that there was going to be a "huge horse event" in Havelberg and all accommodation was booked out.

    Since I had not seen many "huge horses" in my lifetime, I thought that it could actually be quite interesting. I also doubted that it would be possible to book out all the available beds in the town, just because of a visiting large equine. We were to learn otherwise.

    With the prospect of another long and hot day, we left Bad Wilsnack at about 8 am and aimed to complete some distance before the real heat set in. It turned out to be a wise decision. The early morning was delightfully cool and we enjoyed some of the best cycling trails of the trip so far.

    Because it was Sunday morning, everything was deserted. There was not a car or a person in sight, so we had the lovely shaded paths all to ourselves. It was only when we started to near Havelberg that we discovered where all the people had gone.

    The entire town was jammed with visitors, and it appeared that every visitor had come complete with an old caravan. I had never seen so many caravans all crammed together, occupying every square millimetre of available land. There must have been thousands of them. In fact, there were so many caravans and motor homes, it was hard to see the elusive giant horse.

    The central part of the city of Havelberg is situated on an island, surrounded by water (as I guess the majority of islands are). It was a beautiful little city, full of quaint, historic buildings and cobblestoned streets (which were challenging for both both bikes and backsides.

    Luckily we did manage to find a few seats where we were able to rest and enjoy a drink before continuing on our journey. As we made our way along the narrow path out of town, we joined a huge convoy of cars and caravans leaving the event. It took some time before we back on the proverbial road less travelled.

    We had no idea that the event was so huge, but we could now fully understand why the accommodation was non existent. After another stop for lunch, we continued on our way, finally reaching Tangermunde about 3 pm. The computer said we had ridden around 76 km.

    Tomorrow we have the different challenge of a wet and much cooler day. We also have a couple of bikes that need mechanical attention, so that will be something else to contend with.
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  • The Rains Came

    9 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Magdeburg last hit the world's headlines back in 1650 when the ruling mayor Otto Van Guericke, demonstrated the amazing power of air pressure with his famous experiment. Apparently, nothing of interest has happened here in the last 374 years, that is until the arrival of the Ghostriders sent the place into a real frenzy of activity.

    We awoke this morning to the ominous sound of steady (actually torrential) rain falling. After the string of hot and sunny weather we have had ever since we arrived, it was obvious that something had shifted drastically in the meteorological world.

    Of course it was inevitable that we would get rain at some stage. You cannot ride halfway across Europe and expect it to remain dry all the way through. Fortunately the forecast promised that the rain would stop sometime around noon.

    After breakfast we pulled out the remnants of our bikes from the garage and noted the damage that we have been steadily inflicting on them each day. In the carpark I was met by a young man who introduced himself as the head of the tourism board in Magdeburg. He seemed quite excited to hear that the famous Ghostriders would be riding to his town. The word of our epic ride is starting to spread before us.

    The peloton looked quite a different sight with their motley array of wet weather gear as we rode out of Tangermunde. Although it was still raining steadily, it was not exactly heavy rain, it was just enough to be a nuisance. At least the much cooler air meant that we did not have to swelter in the heat while we rode along. Even at this early stage it is also evident that our riders are steadily getting stronger with each passing day, so 75 km did not seem like such a challenge.

    In spite of the rain, the route was actually a lovely mix of quiet trails, forests, bridges and a succession of beautiful little towns along the way. The steady rain gradually started to make us feel quite cold, so you could imagine our delight when, at somewhere near the 38 km mark, we stumbled onto a perfect location for a rest and something to eat and drink.

    The place was actually quite huge and even had a 10 pin bowling alley!. It was a perfect chance to warm up and enjoy some really nice coffee and cake. By the time we emerged, the rain had stopped. It stayed away for the rest of the day.

    The final few kilometres into Magdeburg were a real delight, with a long tree lined bike path taking us right into the centre of the town. When we arrived at the hotel, it was a surprise to find a couple of girls with a welcome pack for each of our riders. It had been organised by the guy we had met in the carpark at Tangermunde.

    The city itself was also quite a surprise. Not only was it much bigger than I had anticipated, it was also modern, clean and very cosmopolitan. Right next to our hotel was a major pedestrian thoroughfare, with numerous cafes and regular trams rolling past.

    After a shower and change of clothes, I went in search of a cafe where I could have something to eat and drink. After placing my order, I sat outside and watched the people walking by.

    I had not been there long when I was surprised to find a woman taking the seat opposite me. It was a bit of an invasion of my personal space, especially when there were plenty of empty tables.

    I might have tolerated the invasion of privacy, but when she proceeded to light up a cigarette, that was just too much. Feigning a coughing spell, I pointed at her noxious emissions and sent her on her way.

    I am sure we could have enjoyed some extra time in this city, but that is not to be. Tomorrow, we continue on our way to Dessau, the site of our next pitstop, and also the place where our team will be increased by one extra rider as Pam Coburn joins the team.
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  • What Blows Around, Comes Around

    10 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    None of our team will forget those first few days on the Elbe Bike Path, when we were riding in heatwave conditions and into the mouth of a ferocious headwind. What a difference a few days makes.

    When we headed out of the hotel in Magdeburg this morning, the conditions were as close to perfect as we could ever wish for. Not only was the air sweet and cool, there was also the Holy Grail of cycling - a lovely tail wind.

    After a few initial complications in finding our way out of the city, we were soon coasting along a succession of quiet bike paths. The cycling was effortless and just so much fun.

    Every extended ride has its Queen Stage. This is the day when we cover the longest distance. Depending on which reference we used, today's distance was supposed to be between 70 and 80 km. By the time you add in a few detours and diversions, we had no idea what the final tally would be.

    There is a principal on these rides that, when coffee shops are in such short supply, it is best never to ride past one when you do see it. That is how we found ourselves sitting at a lovely Italian cafe with only 18 km ridden. I decided to order an iced chocolate and cake, mainly because it seemed like a good idea at the time. A few minutes later I was sitting in front of the most decadent chocolate creation I had ever seen. It took all my stamina and discipline to completely consume it.

    After another 30 or so kilometres we found a wonderful cafe, almost hidden from the passing traffic. It had a wonderful, flower lined courtyard that made the place really special. The schnitzel that I ordered was pretty good too. Little did I know at that time, that it would be only meal I would get for the rest of the day.

    The final 10 km into Dessau were along a somewhat neglected bike path, and our initial impressions of the city left a lot to be desired. It certainly was nothing like the beautiful approach into Magdeberg that we had enjoyed so much just 24 hours earlier.

    We followed a rather confusing and circuitous route to the Dormero Hotel, which was to be our home for the next two nights. When I finally managed to find my room, I discovered that none of the lights in the bathroom were working. I had to call for assistance and wait while a man with a hammer and a ladder made a lot of noise and eventually announced that it was fixed.

    I looked forward to a luxurious shower, but found that the soap dispenser was empty. This was not leaving a good first impression at all. But the worst was yet to come.

    We had been told that we were booked in for dinner at 7 pm, however we arrived to find that the restaurant was completely full of raucous Germans, all busily finishing off the remains of the buffet. When I asked the young guy at the desk where we were supposed to eat, he directed us into a seminar room, complete with dirty chairs and tables, and nothing else.

    It got even worse when we went in search of food, There was nothing left. Only cold soup, and a few scraps of salad, No hot food, no dessert, nothing, nada, zilch. I tried to complain to the inept young man at the desk that this was not what we paid for. I would have had a more intelligent conversation talking to a door knob. He just had no idea. Eventually he offered that we could have two free drinks, instead of dinner. Hardly a fair replacement, especially when the guy behind the bar explained that the hotel does not serve ice with any drinks. They must be consumed luke warm.

    Thus we sat on the dirty chairs, looking at the miserable empty space on our plates. In all honesty I had never seen anything like this. It would have been funny if it wasn't so tragic. We were all very hungry after riding 78 km, and this was not how we expected the day to end.

    I thought that maybe I could at least finish my nonexistent meal with a cup of coffee. Guess what ? I was told that the coffee machine had been turned off, and it was still only 7.30pm.

    Faced with impending starvation, a group went out to buy some pizza. They shouldn't have had to, but there was no other option. I took the receipt and handed it to the incompetent behind the desk, and explained that we expected the hotel to pay the bill. He stared at me with an open mouth. I am a patient man, but it does have limits.

    Tomorrow morning I will be speaking to the hotel manager, and maybe I will be able to explain how a decent hotel should be run. This place will certainly stick in our minds for all the wrong reasons. To me it operated like an asylum for the criminally incompetent, rather than anything resembling a quality hotel.
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  • The Dismal Disaster of the Dormero

    11 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After the ridiculous farce at the Dormero Hotel last night, I was actually looking forward to meeting the hotel manager and explaining our shocking experience. Now I can fully understand why this dreadful hotel is in such a shambles.

    To my amazement the inept manager refused to believe that we did not get any dinner. He insisted that there was "plenty of food" on the buffet and that it was "topped up every five minutes". He obviously has no idea at all what is actually happening under the roof of the hotel he is supposedly managing.

    When John and I showed him the photos of the empty buffet, he pointed to the remnants of salad and pronounced "look there is food". He justified his position by saying that, because the hotel was only allowed 20 Euro per person for a dinner, we should have been thankful for any morsels we got.

    In all my travels, and after staying in hundreds of hotels around the world, I had never witnessed such a display of complete denial. It is obvious that the lack of leadership at the top is responsible for the deplorable situation at the hotel.

    The problem is that we are booked here for another night, and I am worried that the whole sad scenario will be played out again tonight. We have been told that this time we will at least have seating in the restaurant. As to whether we will get any food, well that is the 64 Euro question.

    All I can say is that, if you ever plan to visit Dessau, do NOT stay at the Hotel Dormero.
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  • A Happy Ending in Dessau

    12 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    After the previous evening's famine at the Dormero Hotel and our abortive discussions with the hotel manager, I have to admit that my expectations for dinner on the second night were very low.

    The only message I received during the day was that we should turn up at 7pm and that we would be able to sit in the restaurant section. There was still no apology from the boss.

    A few of us started to gather in the lobby at 6.30 pm to see if the place was going to be as crowded as the previous night. Although it was rapidly filling, there were still some empty tables and, even more remarkably, there was still some hot food on the buffet.

    Rather than risk going hungry for another night , we decided to grab something while there was still something to be grabbed. I ended up with a modest collection of meatballs and something else (origin unknown) on my plate. At least it was a lot better than I had feared.

    The rest of the group arrived and proceeded to follow our example. It was only after most of us had eaten that the young barman mentioned something about a "special meal" for us. To our shock and amazement, the kitchen started bringing out loaded plates with genuine food on them. It looked like someone had finally acted behind the scenes to make atonement for some of the previous mistakes.

    Smiles returned to the faces of our riders as they faced the pleasant challenge of emptying the stacked plates. After dinner, we were happy to chat into the night. It was a happy ending to our experience in Dessau.
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  • Oh What a Beautiful Day!

    12 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    On any long distance ride such as our Epic Elbe, there are always some days that stand out in your memories, long after the ride is over. Sometimes this is for all the wrong reasons - terrible weather, bike crashes, punctures, rough trails, etc. Every once in a while you experience a day where all the stars allign to give you the very best cycling experience possible. That day was today.

    Although our impressions of Dessau were rather poor, the bike path out of the city was absolutely delightful in every way. We found ourselves riding through silent forests along quiet trails that are the real essence of what we all came so far to experience. The early morning air was cool and clean and there was absolutely no wind to hamper our progress.

    About 18 km from the start we arrived at the picture postcard village of Worlitz, complete with medieval half timbered houses, a palatial mansion and a lake. Although we arrived too early for the numerous cafes to be open, we did find a little coffee caravan. The coffee was OK and the poppy seed cake I purchased was excellent.

    It was while we were exploring the town that our attention was grabbed by a loud siren warning. At the same time, every phone started sounding an alarm with a red flashing warning on the screen. This would normally have been enough to induce pure panic, however exactly the same thing happened during our ride last year. Fortunately, it was only a practice drill and not a message of an impending nuclear holocaust.

    After exploring the town, and after being thoroughly castigated for riding our bikes where such a thing is "absoluten verboten", we continued on our way to the highly historic city of Wittenberg, actually this is the second town of that name we have ridden through, but this one is the real deal.

    It was in this city that Martin Luther questioned the authority of the Roman Catholic Church by writing his 95 theses. These relied on the authority of the scriptures, and not the authority of the church. This did not go down well with the existing power structure and Luther was immediately excommunicated from the church.

    Luther was then declared an outlaw at the so-called "Diet of Worms" and his excommunication was still in place when he died almost thirty years later. What Luther's stand did initiate was the start of the Protestant Reformation, one of the most significant events in the history of civilization.

    After we arrived in this beautiful city, I had some time to wander back down the main street to the cathedral where all this took place, just over 500 years ago. The original door where Luther nailed his 95 theses has now been replaced by an impressive bronze one, but groups of people still gather here to reflect on this pivotal point in history.

    I also learned this afternoon, that not only are we walking (and riding) through history, but we are also making history ourselves. While chatting to our contact person at Ruckenwind, I learned that we are the first group of cyclists to attempt such an epic ride. Apparently, most of their trips are from 4 to 7 days. In both the length of the ride and the number of participants, we are boldly going where no cyclist has gone before.

    It is little wonder that the logistical challenge of putting together such a trip almost meant that it was abandoned at several stages along the planning pathway. But, in spite of the challenge, we are actually doing it, and enjoying (almost) every second of it.
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  • Some More Images of Wittenberge

    12 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
  • Cool Riding to Torgau

    13 сентября 2024 г., Германия ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    When we landed in Hamburg, just two and a half weeks ago, we found ourselves in the middle of a late summer heatwave. I well remember walking the streets of Hamburg under a sweltering sun, and eagerly looking forward to returning to the air conditioned sanctuary of my hotel room at the Marriott.

    Although the high temperatures persisted for the first few days of our ride, they were soon replaced with much more moderate weather. Fortunately for us the early head winds were also replaced with either still weather or (on some rare occasions) a tail wind.

    When I checked the forecast for today, it was evident that we would be facing a cold temperature challenge for the first time on this trip. I advised the team that it would be wise to look for some warm layers to add to their regular cycling gear. It turned out to be wise advice.

    Today we knew that it would be a reasonably long ride of something around 70km. There was also the possibility of some afternoon showers. In cycling there is an old saying, that "there is no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing". For that reason I presented at the start of the ride with an extra layer, in the form of my thermal undershirt.

    Although the initial temperature was quite cold (probably around 11C), I must admit that I was quite comfortable. I have always preferred cold weather to hot weather, and was looking forward to completely a full day's ride in cool conditions.

    The country in this region is completely flat, and the combination of smooth bike paths, flat terrain and a (sometimes) tail wind, meant that we made excellent progress. We had been told to expect to see the Pretzsche Castle somewhere near the half way mark. While the promised castle was there, it was not quite what we were expecting. After enjoying a cup of coffee and cake at the café, we did the obvious thing and walked in the front door of the “castle”, only to find that it was actually a functioning school, complete with kids and classrooms. It was a bit embarrassing as we felt that we should not have been there (and maybe we shouldn’t).
    After a brief wander, we returned to our bikes and continued on our wind assisted way to the next town of Dommitzsch. We had been informed that there was food there, and there was. It came in the form of a quaint little café run by an Indian couple. Since it was unlikely that there would be any other opportunity for lunch, we stopped for 45 minutes to fill our stomachs, before the final 20 km to Torgau.
    It was somewhere along the way in this final section that we realized that rain was on its way. It would have been a real travesty of justice to get soaked so close to our destination. I made an announcement “These bikes have a TURBO setting, let’s use it”. And we did.
    If it had not been for the 25 kph speed restriction, we would have made it to the hotel even quicker. As it was, we arrived in Torgau just as the rain was starting. We had ridden over 70 km, and everyone was feeling fresh and strong. That is what riding over 500 km in 8 days can do for you.
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