Mutiny on the Terre de Sel
Yesterday in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Although we have already completed the famous cycling route known as the Loire a Velo from Nevers to St Brevin, our riding was not quite completed. Before we could climb off the bikes for the final time, we still had one more day to complete. Our ride will take us all the way to the little ocean front town of Le Croisic, about another 55km further on.
Before we could begin the ride, we had a huge obstacle in our way - the St Nazaire Bridge. This massive bridge was opened in 1975 and was, at the time the longest cable stayed bridge in the world. At over 3 km in length. Because of its height, it is speed restricted to only 70 kph and there is no way any sane person would consider riding a bike across it. Fortunately we have faced this problem on all our previous trips, and the solution is to transport us and our bikes by motor vehicle across to the northern side.
After meeting in the car park at 8.30 am and checking that Paul had not lost anything overnight, we were ushered into three taxis for the trip to the Gare de Saint Nazaire, the starting point for our final day's ride. As we travelled across the Loire for the final time, I think we were all thinking back over the past few weeks and how much our lives had revolved around this famous waterway. Now we were seeing it for the final time.
Soon we were on the bikes and navigating a very circuitous route. I have to confess something at this point. When we rode this section back in 2019, we noted that there were several places where the route could be shortened by taking a series of carefully executed shortcuts. Was this cheating ? Maybe. This time the team all wanted to do the right thing and ride every km of the set ride. So that is what we did.
Although we were not following a river, this really is a delightful part of France. As we got closer and closer to Brittany (Bretagne), you can see the culture and architecture start to reflect its historic British heritage, You even ride through small hamlets of thatched roof homes. The only thing we didn't see was any place to have a morning tea break.
To recognise that this was the final riding day, all those who had taken a turn in leading the group were given a chance at the front of the peloton. A huge thanks to David, John, Paul and Catriona for their help in this regard.
Our first (and only) opportunity to stop for lunch was at the famous medieval walled city of Guerande, about 13 km from the finish line. We happend to arrive right at noon, with the church bells peeling happily to announce our arrival. There was also a market set up in the centre of the town, selling the usual array of Chinese shoes, cheap spanners and assorted foodstuffs. We took a 90 minute break here to eat and watch how quickly the stall holders dismantled their stands, once the closing signal was given.
The final highlight of our ride was the famous salt flats between Guerande and Le Croisic. These are used to harvest salt from the ocean water by evaporating the water in large shallow pools. The salt is then collected into piles, purified and packaged for sale. The region is known as "Terre de Sel", literally the "Land of Salt". And that is exactly what it is.
As we meandered through the evaporation ponds, we formed a long conga line of cyclists while I shared the benefit of my sparse knowledge about the salt harvesting process. After some time I realised how quiet the group had become. Maybe I had bored them to sleep. I stopped and dismounted, only to find that there was no sign of anyone else. I was standing in the giant salt pan all by myself. That was strange.
I waited for some time, wondering what I should do, before I eventually saw the familiar yellow and pink shirted riders finally appear on the horizon. When they finally arrived they explained that they had stopped to eat handfuls of the free salt. Apparently they didn't know what salt tasted like and had to test it for themselves to see if it was really nice.
With the peloton reformed, we continued the ride the remaining few km to Le Croisic, When I saw the familiar hotel come into view I knew that this time the ride really was over. What had begun so many weeks and so many hundreds of km earlier had now come to an end. It was a time to share hugs and smiles and congratulate each other for their achievement. For some it was the first time they had ever undertaken such a challenge and I reminded them of how proud they should feel at that moment. It is an experience that very few people ever get to share, so I hoped that the moment would last for the rest of their lives.
Our home for the next couple of days is the beautiful Hotel Les Vikings, right on the Atlantic Coast, with ocean views from every room. This region is known as the Cote Sauvage (Savage Coast), but at that moment it didn't look savage. It was almost mirror smooth, without a wave or a breath of wind. It was sort of like every other day of the ride. All that gear we bought along for cold, wet weather riding never did see the light of day.
In the evening we gathered for dinner at the Bistrot de L'Ocean. The views out to the setting sun were spectacular, as was the meal.Read more
Peloton ? What peloton ?
October 2 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Our time spent in Nantes really had been amazing, but of course all gopod things must come to an end. It was time to resume our ride towards the mouth of the Loire. You didn't have to be an Einstein to realise that we were going to be in for another perfect day. There was not a cloud in the sky, only the characteristic airplane vapour trails that are such a feature of the European skies.
Since we had the longest stage of the entire ride ahead of us, I had asked the team to be ready on time for an early start. At the appointed hour of departure, a quick head count indicated that the p[eloton was all present and accounted for. I was just about to lead the group out of the hotel car park, when Paul announced that he had lost his watch. Well you might ask how this could actually happen, but the truth of the matter is that Paul has previous form for losing important items all along the route.
He lifted up his arm to display the patch of bare flesh where his watch should been and then headed back into the hotel to begin the search, So much for our early start. A few minutes later Paul emerged with a somewhat guilty look on his face. he had faced his watch after ll. It turned out that he had already been wearing, although it had somehow relocated to his armpit, rather than his wrist. It is not easy taking geriatric riders on a ride across a continent.
With his watch relocated back to his wrist we were finally underway, but immediately found ourselves in the middle of never ending road works. In several places our route was blocked by security fencing and barriers. Getting out of an unfamiliar big city is never easy, but this really was on another level.
Eventually we finally navigated our way through the island, past Les Machines and onto the bike path. Although we were out of the city, the navigation did not get any easier. There were a never ending series of intersections and turns. It would be so easy to lose one of our riders. And that is what we did. When we finally reached something that resembled a town, the women demanded that we find a toilet. Just as we stopped to look around, I received a phone call from David. He was lost. At the start of the ride David had been delegated the job of being the tail end rider, but now he was telling me that he had lost sight of the peloton, although he insisted that he was still following the designated route. Since we had only been riding slowly, we couldn't understand how he could have got so far behind. It was only after we utilised our combined technological resources that we determined that he was in front of the group. Somehow he had managed to pass out without realising it, and thus turned the peloton upside down and inside out.
While we were trying to reconnect with David, the ladies went in search of a toilet. Apparently they found a lovely one and Libby ventured in first. The only problem was that, when she emerged, she somehow managed to lock the door and prevent the others being able to access it. They then had to ride back and forth around the town looking for an elusive back up toilet.
Finally David reconnected with the group and the ladies somehow found relief. We were on our way again. At around the 40 km mark, the route began to straighten out and we were able to get a good speed up. We joined a series of irrigation canals that I remembered well from my previous rides. At this point I knew we would soon be seeing the huge Estuary of the Loire that would indicate that the Loire a Velo was nearing its end.
Our final stop for the day was at a lovely Boulangerie at the 55 km mark. Their baguettes were some of the best we had eaten for the entire time we had been in France. I really will miss these daily indulgences when I get back home to Melbourne. It was about this time that we also got out first view of the massive bridge that spans the mouth of the Loire and connect St Brevin with Saint Nazaire. For the next 30 minutes we saw the bridge get closer and closer, till we eventually rode right under it. A short distance further on we reached the giant rainbow serpent art installation that officialydesignates the end of the Loire a Velo. It was time for a few group photos and a paddle in the water of the Loire.
Our ride wasn't quite finished yet as we still had to ride another 5 km or so to reach our hotel. The JOA Spa Hotel is a fancy 4 star hotel, situated right on the Atlantic Coast. The rooms were large and luxurious and we were thrilled to discover that we all had rooms with ocean views. It was a delightful reward for riding 70 km from Nantes.
Tomorrow we leave the Loire behind to complete the final stage to Le Croisic, where we will climb off the bikes for the final time.Read more
Images of Nantes
October 1 in France ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Today had some special significance. It was the last scheduled free day in our ride along the Loire a Velo. That meant I was faced with a decision. How was I going to spend it?
The answer is actually quite simple. The first task I had to do was to find the closest Lavarie (laundromat). Although I had been relatively diligent in washing my clothes in the hotel room each day, it is really a poor substitute for a genuine washing machine and hot water. Fortunately I found that there was a modern laundry, just about 5 minutes' walk from the hotel. The walk was quick, but the wait watching the clothes go round and round, first in the washing machine and then in the dryer, seemed to take an eternity.
When the washing was finally complete, I walked back to my room, dropped it off and then went in search of lunch. yesterday I had noticed a lovely little cafe in the Pommeraye Passage, so that is where I headed. Unfortunately, the food was not as good as the decor, and it left me feeling rather disappointed. Oh well, that happens sometimes. At least the owner was friendly and seemed happy to serve me.
I then wandered the city in the region of the hotel for some time. It is worth noting that, although Nantes does have some medieval sections, the region of the city where we are staying is not one of them. The buildings here are modern and cosmopolitan. There are a plethora of high priced clothing stores selling stuff at prices only the rich and famous could afford. The other aspect of Nantes that is worth mentioning is that it has numerous items of a whimsical nature that have been incorporated into its architecture. You can clearly see that the spirit of Jules Verne is evident everywhere.
During my wanderings I did come across something of interest. A large number of police vehicles and heavily armed national police were gathered at an intersection. Although the display of force was impressive, it also seemed to be quite unnecessary. There did not appear to be any major crime in progress, and the police seemed to be happily chatting and laughing together. I got bored waiting for some action to happen and continued my wandering, eventually finishing up at the famous Scottish restaurant, known the world over as MacDonald's. At least their food was plain and easy to eat.
Tomorrow morning we get back on the bikes for the final leg of the Loire a Velo route. It will also be the longest ride of this section of the ride. By the end of the day we will have reached the mouth of the Loire and the end of the Loire a Velo bike ride. We will however still have one more day to ride, but that will take us away from the Loire as we ride through the Pays de La Loire from St Brevin Les Pines to Le Croisic.Read more
What Happened to the Elephant ?
September 30 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Today was the second last day we would be riding the Loire. After starting our journey so many weeks ago at Joigny, it is a little hard to accept that it will soon be coming to an end. Our destination today was Nantes, the last big city we will encounter on our ride to the Atlantic. On the following day we will reach the mouth of the Loire at St Brevin Les Pins, where we will be able to see the Loire emptying into the Atlantic Ocean. The following day will take us away from the Loire as we ride across the Pays de La Loire to Le Croisic. That is where we will finally climb off the bikes for the last time.
There is an old saying that "what goes up, must come down", and that is certainly true of the ride out of Champtoceaux. Yesterday our riders had triumphantly climbed to the hilltop township without raising either a sweat or a heartbeat. Now, as we rode back down to the river, we could retrieve some of that stored energy. Of course I was conscious that fast descents can sometimes bring horrible disasters (eg the Great China Catastrophe of 2007), however we all managed to get to the bottom without any mishaps.
Today Catriona had offered to take the lead, and we got a chance to see what a little pocket rocket she really is. Once she started pedaling, she reminded me of those wonderful giant red firecrackers we used to have so much fun with as children. They certainly used to go off with a bang, and that is exactly what Catriona did. Soon we were hurtling along at the ebike max speed, bouncing over potholes, skidding around corners and even riding through farmer's irrigation sprinklers. For a while it looked like we would arrive in Nantes about 10.30 am, although a lengthy stop for morning tea helped slow the progress.
When I look back on my last time in Nantes, my most vivid memory was of the huge animatronic amusement park known as Les Machines. This place was built as an homage to the famous Science Fiction writer Jules Verne, best known for his fictional novel "20 Leagues Under the Sea". There is no doubt that Verne was the most famous person to come from Nantes, and his memory and legacy is all over the city. The most well-known of the fantastical constructions at Les Machines is the giant mechanised elephant. This huge beast moves around the city, carrying 40 or so passengers and spraying water from its trunk (and something else from its other end).
I could not wait to show the rest of the team just how amazing the machines were. Instead of going to the hotel, we first rode to the site of the machines. "You will want to spend hours here", I explained. "It really is incredible". Well it turned out to be incredible, but for all the wrong reasons. The whole area was in the middle of some sort of major reconstruction. There were no crowds. No ticket lines. And the giant elephant? It was just standing there, doing nothing. What a disappointment.
We wandered about trying to make sense of the lack of action, but it just didn't make sense. The ticket office was closed. Nothing was happening. I had no alternative other than to call the whole visit off and head to the hotel instead.
Our home for the next two nights is the stately Hotel de France, right next to the impressive Opera House in the middle of the city. We are actually so close to the Opera House, that when I looked out of my window, I looked straight into the costume department, where male tailors were busily sewing elaborate costumes. Well, it might not be as exciting as a giant elephant, but it was a sight I had not witnessed before.
Our dinner was at the incredible Le Cigale (The Grasshopper) restaurant, which was just a few metres from our hotel. The most impressive feature of the restaurant is the incredible interior decoration, almost certainly making it the most famous restaurant in Nantes. We were also delighted to find that the service and food was also excellent, especially when we discovered that the drinks were included at no charge.
It really was a memorable evening. Tomorrow is our final rest day for this ride and we have a full day to further explore the place, and maybe see what the elephant is doing.Read more
The Lizard of Champtoceaux
September 29 in France ⋅ 🌧 21 °C
I had been sitting at the scenic lookout in Champtoceaux when my attention was grabbed by a small movement near my feet. When I looked down I saw the most beautiful little lizard I have ever seen. It was covered in bright green spots and was calmy feasting on small insects.
For the next several minutes I was captivated as it scuttled too and fro, seemingly oblivious to my presence. It was one of those special moments that will be forever etched in my memory. I tried my best to let it know that I was not a threat and that it could safely stay as long as it wanted. Way down below me the greatly diminished Loire snaked before me. From this elevated viewpoint, it was clear to see just how far the river had retreated from its normal dimensions. Now there was vastly more sand than river.
Unfortunately the magic moment was brought to an end when a local fellow walked straight toward me. Although I tried to signal to him about my little reptilian friend, he did get the message and stomped right through, sending my friend back into the bushes.
Earlier in the day we had left Montjean in overcast conditions, but not before we had stocked up with provisions for our picnic lunch from the lovely Boulangerie. We then jumped on the bikes to begin the 40 km ride to Champtoceaux. John had volunteered to lead the ride, and he took off like a man on a mission. We quickly formed a conga line of riders flying along at around 26 kph. Since we were all riding ebikes, that is the maximum speed we could ride, before the motor assist cuts out completely. Although most of the early riding was on a public road, the traffic was almost non existent and the surface was smooth.
Around 11.30 am we found a delightful location for our picnic lunch. It was complete with tables and toilets and was the most peaceful spot you could imagine. The rain had held off and the sky had now lightened enough to indicate that we were in for a fine afternoon.
Our picnic location even had the unlikely addition of a flying fox, and some of the more adventurous members of our team had a go on it. Since I did not want to run the risk of breaking the overhead cable, I wisely refrained.
Although nearly all of the day's ride was flat, I knew that the final section had a significant sting in its tail. The last time I had ridden this I was riding an analogue bike, and I well remember how hard it was to climb to the township. This time we were all riding ebikes and were actually looking forward to the challenge. And what a difference it made. With the aid of a little electrical assistance, all our riders reached the top of the climb feeling exhilarated. I suspect that some were even a little disappointed that the climb was not longer.
Our home for the night is the very comfortable Hotel Champalud.
Editor's Footnote. I later found out that the probable identity of my little friend was the western green lizard (lacerta bilineata).Read more
The Rains Came
September 28 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
At only 37 km, today's ride should have been a real doddle. Under normal circumstances it would have been, but today was not normal. As I have been reminding the readers over and over again, we have not seen rain since we arrived in France about 6 weeks ago. Well that changed today.
The local weather experts had been predicting that it might rain today, and their predictions were not unfounded. When I looked out of my hotel window in Angers this morning, I was greeted by a really unfamiliar sight - wet roads. "Well I never", I was tempted to think. That was an unfamiliar challenge.
When you are on such a ride, there is no "Plan B" under these circumstances - you just have to buckle down and face the weather head on. On went our wet weather gear and we made our way unsteadily out of the large city of Angers. The addition of water to the streets had made them potentially slippery and dangerous, so we were very conscious of being cautious at every change of surface.
Once out of the city, I was happy to hand over navigational duties to David. He seems to enjoy the job, and I was certainly happy to sit back and follow. The drizzle was not heavy, but it was persistent, slowly working its way into gloves, shoes and cycling shorts. At least it was not cold, and at one stage we stopped to remove our jackets. They quickly went back on again went the rain started to fall more heavily.
Faced with the watery deluge and the fact that just about everything is closed on Mondays, we decided to skip morning tea and just ride straight through to Montjean, The rain kept us company for the entire distance, and I felt sorry for those in the other groups who were facing much longer rides today.
It was a relief to find that our rooms were ready when we arrived, so we were able to quickly check in and get changed. Since Montjean is such a small town, and since today was Monday, our only option for lunch was the tiny kebab shop around the corner from the hotel. The chicken burger, chips and 2 drinks was great value for 12 Euro and, so far, there have been no evil after effects.
This evening we have dinner in the hotel, so we don't have far to walk,
Editor's Note - With the wet weather, there were few pictures taken of the day's ride.Read more
Postcard from Angers
September 27 in France ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
At this stage of an extended ride, the so called "free days" take on a degree of extra importance. It is normal for participants to start to feel the cumulative effects of their exertions over the previous weeks. I have to admit that I am starting to feel a little "leg weary". While I can still ride comfortably, I am finding that every time I have to walk upstairs it feels like gravity has somehow grown stronger.
For that reason, my aspirations for the time spent in Angers were quite modest. First I visited the nearby Laverie to catch up with my laundry, then walked to the Chateau of Angers to explore the immense structure. Guess what I found there ? Stairs. Steep, narrow and very dark stairs. The last time we were in Angers Carol Yates broke her leg, and I had no plans to emulate her achievement. For that reason, every time I faced the challenge of climbing a steep stone staircase, I hobbled up it like a 75 year old man. Come to think of it, I AM a 75 year old man, so maybe it is not so surprising.
I did manage to climb to the highest turret of the chateau and take some time admiring the view down over the Maine River. The river in the picture is not the Loire, but it does flow into the Loire a short distance downstream from the city.
Tomorrow, we get back on the bikes for the next leg (or is it pedal) of the ride to Montjean Sur Loire.Read more
Cool Riding to Angers
September 26 in France ⋅ 🌙 17 °C
Ever since this ride began in Joigny, over 4 weeks and 1000 km ago, we have been presented with an unbelievable succession of identical days. Without exception, every day begins with a cloudless sky and a cool morning. By noon the temperatures have risen to around 30C or so and by mid afternoon it is usually in the low 30s.
Although this has meant that all the wet weather clothing we carefully packed into our luggage has never even seen the light of day, it has been clearly evident just how desperate is the need for rain, and plenty of it. If rivers are the arteries that keep the land healthy, then France (and indeed most of Europe) is very ill indeed. The Loire is just a sad shadow of its normal self, and it seems like the further downstream we ride, the more dire the situation becomes.
When we awoke this morning, I noticed that something was different. The sky was covered with clouds. Now that was a phenomenon we have not seen for weeks. The local weather bureau had predicted a significant drop in temperature, and it looked like they were going to be right. On the other side of the planet, back in Melbourne, things were quite different. It was the day of the AFL Grand Final, with Brisbane and Freemantle battling it out for the 2026 Premiership Cup. I followed the first couple of quarters and was intrigued to see that it had been quite an arm-wrestle, with neither side getting a significant break. Apparently, it was also pouring rain. Now, that would have been a sight to see.
By the time we were ready to ride, the match had entered the final quarter and the scores were still too close to call the result. Thanks to David's Internet connected hearing aid, we were able to receive regular score updates, as they were delivered directly to his brain. When he reported that the Dockers were 17 points up with only a few minutes to go, it looked like the result was finally clear. As it turned out, it wasn't over after all. The Bears went on a last minute scoring spree to land the final 4 goals of the match and thus secure their third flag in a row. It was not the result that most were hoping for. At least it wasn't the poor old Demons who were at the receiving end this time.
In the cool conditions we made great progress. It was amazing to see how we are now able to happily cruise along at 25 kph, with even the less experienced riders quite unperturbed. The ride was mostly quite flat and the smooth surfaces made for effortless progress. After deviating away from the river for the first part of the ride, when we again resumed the passage along the Loire, we were staggered to see it had virtually disappeared. Where there should have been flowing water, there were just vast expanses of dirt and sand. It really was sad to see.
Since the start of this ride we have encountered many unique challenges, however I knew that there was still a surprise or two waiting for our team members. One of these took the form of crossing a murky waterway in a tiny, hand pulled boat (bac). Every time we have reached this point on previous rides, there has been so much laughter that it was hard to get across without depositing ourselves or the bikes (or both) in the fetid water. This time was no different, although the water was even more disgusting than I had ever seen it.
Today's ride was around 60 km, but we managed to easily roll into the outskirts of Angers around 2 pm. The final few km were quite a challenge, with numerous interconnected paths all combining to test our navigational skills. At one stage we found ourselves in the middle of a slate quarry, with massive piles of slate debris. This was a stark reminder of just how important slate is the building industry in France where just about every building is covered in slate tiles.
Riding into a city of some 150000 residents is never easy, and the final couple of kilometres to our hotel took a lot of time and care. It was a huge relief to finally reach the Hotel de France, although our relief was a little premature. We were informed that the hotel garage was quite a distance from the hotel itself. When we got there we found that no amount of brute force and determination could get the key to work. We had no alternative than to get all the bikes back to the hotel for the poor, hassled desk clerk to sort out.
The hotel is situated right opposite the imposing Gare d'Angers (the railway station) and the view from my window overlooks the station and the large central fountain. Well it should have been a fountain, however the lack of water now means that it looks like an empty swimming pool.Read more
An Abbaye, The Prime, Troglodytes and a Festival
September 25 in France ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
The prospect of a long, hot day meant that an early start would be the best approach. Our group rolled out of Chinon at 8.30 and planned to get as much distance covered as possible before the heat of the day set in. The first 20 km turned into a delightful ride through cool forests. We even resorted to singing a few favourite songs from Julie Andrews and the Sound of Music. It was that sort of morning.
We were quite surprised when we realised that 20 km of the day's ride had been accomplished by around 10 am. We then had a decision to make. There was an option to head off the main route to the famous Fountevraud Abbay, although this would necessitate a strenuous climb to get there. After some discussion Tim, Mark, John and Jenny opted to continue on the main route while the other five of us headed up the mountain. I did not really know what to expect, but I hoped the effort would be worth it.
About 30 minutes we reached the Abbay, but first found a lovely shaded picnic ground to enjoy our lunches, before entering the Abbay.
At the entrance I started to have second thoughts. Considering the day was really starting to heat up, and considering they wanted another 15 Euro or so as an entry fee, I decided to cut my losses and head back down the mountain instead. By the end of the day I learned that the other four regretted their decision to stay around.
There were two highlights remaining for the day's ride. The first of these was to mark the crossing of the Prime meridian. This is the line that passes through Greenwich and marks the division between the eastern and western hemispheres. With the aid of my GPS I carefully watched the coordinates count down till the actual spot was reached. Then out came my stick of chalk and I carefully drew a wobbly line across the road to mark the spot. The final step was to position my bike with the front half in the west and the back half in the east and then take a picture. I later discovered that the four riders behind me took an alternate route and missed this location entirely.
The final highlight was to ride through the famous Troglodyte centre. It was a great relief to feel the temperature plummet as I entered the underground wonderland, although the feeling that I was being watched by unseen red eyes, peering out from every crevice, meant that I did not wait around for long.
The remainder of the ride to Saumur was achieved without incident and what a pleasant surprise it was to enter the magnificent Anne d'Anjou Hotel. Their service was amazing and the views from my window out over where the Loire would have been, were breathtaking.
We had also arrived just in time for the Annual Festival of the Loire. All over Saumur there were stalls being set up and large stages being erected for outdoor entertainment. It was obviously a big deal in this region, although the only thing missing this year was the river itself.Read more
Maurice Dufresne and Sleeping Beauty
September 24 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
About 6 km from Azay le Rideau there is one of the most amazing sights I have ever seen. From the street, the place looks completely underwhelming. Apart from a rusting old steam engine, there is very little else to encourage anyone passing by to take the time to venture inside.
The first time I was riding this route, back in 2013, we would have done exactly that. The problem was that it was starting to rain and we were looking for somewhere to shelter. You know what they say about "any port in a storm". On that occasion the Musee de Maurice Defresne became our unlikely port. It turned out to be a magnificent, although accidental discovery.
Situated in a vast old mill house, this museum contains the most amazing collection of machines, cars, weapons and just about everything else, you are ever likely to see in one place. Maurice deFresne was a blacksmith who spent a lifetime amassing this vast assemblage. The collection is so vast, that it is hard to imagine how it could be collected in multiple lifetimes, but here it is.
If you take the recommended walking route through the collection, you will be walking for over a kilometre, through one enormous space after another. The variety is staggering, and for many of the items there is a story attached describing the history of the object and how it was discovered. It really is a veritable Aladdin's Cave of unlikely treasures.
This year we had no rain to shelter from, but I did make sure that we stopped for a look inside. The only problem was that we arrived 30 minutes early and had to wait outside for the gates to open. It wasn't exactly a hardship. In the quiet, still morning air it really just felt good to be alive. Two hours later we emerged at the coffee shop and agreed that it really was an amazing place. I was a little surprised that even the women had enjoyed it so much. I had been worried that it was a more a man thing, b ut I was obviously mistaken.
After leaving the museum, it was about time for lunch and we found a very popular cafe by the bike path just a short distance further on. The fact that it was crowded with cyclists is always a good sign. When we received our food, we could quickly see the reason for the crowds. The food was excellent.
Our final stop for the day was the famous Chateau d'Usse. This beautiful castle is most commonly known as the Sleeping Beauty Castle, as it was the inspiration for the famous fairy tale. When you see the place, you can easily see why. It has fairy tale magic written into every stone.
The final few km into Chinon contained quite a few climbs and steep descents. Anyone who thinks that the Loire a Velo is always flat, thinks wrong. There are some real climbs along the way as the route sometimes detours far from the river.
Our home for the next two nights is the Hotel Diderot. This incredible building dates back to the 14th century, about 300 years older than the Clos d'Amboise. I guess that explains why there is no elevator. Manhandling my heavy luggage up the narrow, winding staircase very nearly brought on a medical emergency, but somehow I managed it. By the time I reached my room on the top floor, I was overdue for my afternoon nap. It didn't take long for my eyes to close.Read more
A Postcard from Chinon
September 24 in France ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
Since today was a much appreciated "free day" in Chinon, it gave me a chance to wander the town and marvel at the history embedded in every stone and building.
My wanderings first took me to the fortress, high above the city. Although I was looking for the lift, somehow I missed it and ended up walking the steep path to the clifftop. It was hard work, but I felt that I had deserved the view from the top.
After a couple of hours in the castle, it was time to come back down (this time I did use the lift) and head for lunch in the lovely little city square. I now have the rest of the day free to relax and maybe snatch a nap/Read more
The Grand Monarch Hotel
September 22 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
I thought I would create a separate footprint with some images of the magnificent hotel we stayed in at Azay Le Rideau. We agree that it was probably the finest hotel of the trip so far, and the service we received was magnificent. What a place !Read more
Villandry, Pompiers and Azay le Rideau
September 22 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Whenever you are staying near the centre of a large city like Tours, the first challenge is to successfully navigate your way out of the middle of the city and back on to the relative safety of the bike path.
It is a bit like riding through the middle of Melbourne, however with the added challenges of riding on the wrong side of the road and not knowing where you are going. To up the ante just a little bit further, cyclists and pedestrians seem to be completely except from following road rules or obeying traffic lights. To the visitor, it just looks like chaos.
Somehow we did manage to reach the bike path without having to send anyone to the local ER Department and soon we were happily scooting along towards Azay Le Rideau. I never cease to be amazed at how participants in these extended rides improve so much in bike fitness and bike handling skills. Even our most inexperienced riders are able to ride along for extended periods at 25 kph. And the other challenges of back to front round a bouts? They ride around them as if they had been doing this for years.
Once again the weather was a carbon copy of every other day for the past month. We are greeted every morning with cloudless skies and cool, fresh air. By noon the temperature has risen to the mid 20s and coats are packed away for the rest of the day. We can appreciate how much the local need rain, but these conditions are certainly ideal for riding.
A few km along the path our way was blocked by a group of red suited Pompiers (firefighters). They were all dressed in diving suits and aqualungs. It appeared to be a training exercise for river diving. We stopped and watch for some time before riding on.
The next stop was the Chateau de Villandry, situated not surprisingly in the village of Villandry. This privately owned chateau is best known for its extensive ornamental gardens, which most of our riders chose to visit. Since I have been here several times before, I decided to wait in the outdoor cafe instead. It did not take long to find myself nodding off. I seem to have perfected the art of doing this whenever I am sitting still for longer than about 5 minutes.
When the other returned from their visit to the Chateau, we continued the ride. A gentle tail wind had developed by this stage, and it allowed us to move along almost effortlessly. The combination of smooth surfaces, the tailwind and the glorious scenery certainly made it an afternoon to remember.
All too soon we were rolling into the beautiful small town of Azay Le Rideau. Our home for the evening was the superb 4 star Grand Monarque. We quickly decided that it was probably the best hotel of the trip so far. The place is full of history, but it has also been carefully restored to a very high standard. We were thrilled to see that our beautiful rooms were even served by a lift.
In the evening we walked to the nearby La Credence Restaurant, where we were treated to an exceptional dinner. It was a perfect end to a magical day.Read more
A Walking Tour of Tours
September 21 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
What do you do on a "rest" day in a foreign city ? The answer is simple. First, you do your laundry and then you walk, and walk.
On yet another bright sunny day (just like every other day since we arrived in France over a month ago), i set out from my hotel with a bulging laundry bag. I was a man on a mission. Thanks to the wonders of Google Maps I had discovered a Speed King, a so-called Libre Laverie (self-serve laundromat) just a few minutes' walk away. When I got there it was empty. All I had to do was figure out how to work the high-tech washing machines. To my delight, the controller accepted coins of all denominations. That allowed me to lighten my sagging pockets by about a kilo of assorted coins. A few minutes later my laundry was happily spinning around in the machine. Just as I was feeling smug for having this procedure down pat, I realised that I had forgotten to put detergent in the machine. So, in went a few more coins and out popped a little block of soap. I found something that looked like it could be a receptacle for soap, but it might have been an ashtray and deposited the soap into it.
It seemed to work, and about 45 minutes later I had the clean washing all sorted and stacked in my hotel room. Now I really did feel smug. It was time to go for a walk. I did not have any particular plans in mind. At times like this I just like to start walking and see where my legs take me. Today they really take me on a long walk, and reminded me that walking is actually much harder than cycling.
I enjoyed a delicious Plat du Jour for lunch, served by a not so friendly waiter. It is a real pity that his service was not as good as his food. That seemed a reasonable justification for only leaving a 50 cent tip. At least he didn't manage to spill the food all over me, so I figured I owed him something. And then it was back to walking.
A few hours later I came to the conclusion that Tours would not be a bad place to live. It is pretty and clean and the history is all around you. Like all cities, Tours is not perfect and I could not help but notice that I saw more professional beggars here than it any other place we have visited so far. At least they were not aggressive.
My final stop for the day was a Starbucks Cafe. The coffee was ordinary, but at least there was plenty of it. Another warm evening was settling over the city as I walked back to hotel.Read more
Troglodytes, A Bike Race and a Private Soiree
September 20 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
Today is a perfect example of how the shortest rides can sometimes combine the greatest number of surprises. At only 33 km, today should have been probably the easiest day of the entire ride, but it held more than its fair share of great surprises.
We began by riding out of the Clos d'Amboise and I am sure that we were all feeling a little sad to be leaving this incredible hotel. But we knew that the saga must keep evolving and we had to get to the large city of Tours before we could take another break.
We had only ridden a few km before we started to see many examples of garages, wine stores and even entire homes, that had been built right into the cliff faces. This region is well known for its troglodytes (people who live under the ground) and today we saw the first examples.
It was about then that the road started to climb in earnest, with the first of several significant climbs. Even though I deliberately added to the level of difficulty by leading the peloton up the wrong road, they didn't seem to care too much. It was just a case of let's turn around and try it the right way.
After getting through the climbs we emerged onto a flat plateau and somehow stumbled onto a serious bike race in progress. We did our best to ignore the traffic controllers and join the race, but eventually got the hint that maybe the race was not intended for 70 year old Australians on ebikes. Since we had nothing better to do, we stopped and watched, after all , the rest of the town seemed to be having a Sunday morning sleep in, and had decided to ignore the race entirely. While we were watching, a stubborn and disgruntled driver simply ignored the pleas to stop and just went straight past the road block, much to the chagrin of the traffic controllers. I guess that sums up the French attitude perfectly - obey the rules when they suit you, at all other times just ignore them completely.
Each time the pack of riders came past, we gave them a rousing cheer and some typically Australian words of encouragement (mostly along the lines of "Do Something"). After the group had passed us a few times (it was a circuit race), they also entered into the spirit of the occasion by waving and smiling as they passed. It really was a priceless and completely unscripted moment.
During the ride we even managed to find a superb, modern boulangerie with a nearby clean toilet. I remembered stopping here on our last ride in 2019 and it brought back very vivid memories.
The rest of the ride into Tours went without incident and we stopped on the outskirts of the city for lunch at the tennis club, before continuing to our hotel. Tours really is an impressive city, with glorious stately buildings, wide tree lined boulevards and a great public transit system. We were even more impressed when we entered the Oceania Hotel with its amazing entry foyer, complete with huge staircase and murals over all the walls. I really could get used to this.
In the evening we were treated to a Private Soiree at La Petite Cuisine. We had a similar evening back in 2019 and the group agreed that it was probably the most memorable night of the entire ride. I had been looking forward to sharing the experience with a new group of participants. Once again, the two young French owners treated us like dinner party guests in their own home. And the food ? It was simply divine.
After dinner we walked back to the hotel in the warm summer's evening. The streets were almost deserted and overhead the waxing moon helped show us the way back home. It was the perfect end to a magical day.Read more
Lunch at Leonardo's
September 19 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
One of my favourite buildings in this region is the Clos Luce, the place where that incredible Renaissance man Leonardo Da Vinci lived from 1516 to his death in 1519. Although it is not as grand as the other famous chateaux, it really is beautiful and its more modest dimensions pay a more respectful homage to this great man. One of the most famous features of the Clos Luce is the secret underground tunnel connecting it to the Royal Chateau of Amboise. This tunnel allowed the young King Francois I to visit ageing Leonardo without having to pass through the great unwashed masses of the city. Only the first few metres of the tunnel are now visible, as much has now collapsed over the past 500 years.
The Clos Luce is only a 10 minute walk from our hotel, so I headed off there after breakfast, eager to refresh my memories of this lovely home and (even lovelier) gardens. I managed to get there before the peak tourist crush descended. I was even happier when I found that there was a special discount on the entry price, not because I had my senior's card, but because it was apparently some sort of special day in France. The discount was just enough to pay for my coffee in the kiosk.
After walking through the home and museum, I found refuge in the lovely shady garden. Back home in Melbourne, Hawthorn was playing Brisbane in the preliminary final. The exciting last quarter saw Hawthorn stage a magnificent fightback, only to fall short by 9 points at the final siren. Thanks to the marvels of modern technology, I was then able to have a video call to my grandchildren and show them Leonardo's home. By coincidence, one of them had just been given a Leonardo da Vinci Lego set, so he was especially interested to see what his real house looked like.
All that remained was the short walk back to the hotel. It would have been even shorter if I hadn't missed one of the corners and ended up accidentally walking back into the centre of the town.Read more
Three Strikes and I am Out in Amboise
September 18 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Bash, Ouch. That hurt. Of course I only have myself to blame. One thing that you need to be acutely aware of when you are living in the crawl space above the ceiling of a 300 year old mansion, is that you are likely to knock yourself senseless every time you stand up.
In spite of the ever growing number of concussions I am accumulating (I think the count was about 4 in the first 30 minutes), I do really love this place. It is actually the fourth time I have stayed in the Clos D'Amboise and, although it might be a serious threat to my cranium, it is so much more interesting than the Mercure we spent the previous night in, back in Blois.
The 43km ride from Blois had been accomplished without drama. Thanks to John and David we even found a glorious Boulanger to stock up on cakes. coffee and lunch. Even the big climb after lunch did not constitute a challenge for our seasoned athletes. They got to the summit so easily, I suspect that they were all la little disappointed that it was not a little longer than it was.
The last few km to Amboise are across the top of a large, exposed plateau. On our last ride through here back in 2019, this was the place we were assaulted by a most evil headwind. Back then we were riding analogue bikes, and it really was hard work. Now with the aid of a little electrical assistance, it was quite easy.
After each team member was ushered to their respective rooms, we had time to change into our best gear for a formal dinner. For me that meant putting on my long pants and French cap. I thought it looked OK, but it seemed to be amusing to everyone else. We did all agree that the dinner at the Clos D'Amboise was exceptional. As I retired to my room, I wandered if the famous ghost would keep me company during the night. It may have done, but I was too tired to chat to it.Read more
Free Entry to Chambord and a Head Wind to Blois
September 17 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
It wasn't entirely my fault. I am normally a very law abiding person and would never even steal a grape from the Woolworths fruit section (well not very often anyway). In spite of this, I can sometimes be a victim of circumstances and today was just one of those occasions.
The gigantic Chateau de Chambord was always going to be the standout highlight of today's ride. It is certainly one of the most distinctive and famous castles in a region that is filled with similar giant edifices of opulence. One of the things that gives Chambord extra credence is the fact that it was partially designed by none other than Leonardo da Vinci, although he unfortunately died back in 1519, possibly of a stroke, before the huge castle was completed. It was reported that Leonardo, on his death bed, was remorseful that he had practised his art as diligently as he should have. Considering that he was regarded as a genuine genius in multiple areas of study, he never the less thought that he had not made the most of what he had been given. He was only 67 years old.
Since I had already visited this structure several times before, I was quite content to sit outside and mind the bikes, while the others paid their entry and spent a couple of hours exploring. I did, however, get a little bored waiting and went off on a walk around the outside of the castle. I had not gone far before I spied an interesting brown door on the side of the building. Being a curious soul, I went to have a closer look, only to find that some careless person had left in unlocked. Now I really was intrigued and decided that it wouldn't hurt to see what was inside.
I took a few steps and found myself inside some sort of office, A man walked past and wished me a customary bonjour. At least it wasn't a torrent of abuse. Of course now I was hooked. I walked on further, through a couple more doors and then found myself in the middle of the tourist throng. I ended up wandering the chateau, including climbing up to the rooftop. It was quite special. I got the same experience that everyone else did, except they had all paid 31 Euro for the privilege and I had paid nothing. Although I had entered via the wrong door, I partially atoned by leaving via the correct exit.
By 2 pm we were ready to resume the ride to Blois, but had not ridden far before discovering that a steady head wind had developed. When we last did this ride in 2019, we were riding analogue bikes and this would have been quite a challenge. Now we are all much older and smarter, and are equipped with lovely ebikes instead. At times like this, the added motor assistance was well appreciated.
When we reached the bridge across the Loire at Blois, we stopped to take the obligatory photos. The entrance to this city is one of the most memorable of this entire ride, and I wanted to make sure that no one missed the chance to capture some memories.
Our home for the night was the modern 4 star Mercure Hotel. It was nice to have working lifts, air conditioning and large rooms, but we all agreed that it really lacked the French character and quirkiness that we had come to expect on our journey.Read more
Beautiful Beaugency
September 16 in France ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C
It was certainly a relief to wake up to much cooler conditions. Although there was no sign of rain, the temperature had dropped at least 10 or more degrees from those we had been experiencing for the past few days. Not only had the weather blessed us with more more benign cycling conditions, but today's ride could have been the shortest of the entire trip.
On paper the distance from Orleans to Beaugency is only around 30 km, a mere doddle for hardened cycling athletes like us. However, we we studied the route map, the planners had decided to introduce some extra detours, presumably just to bring the total distance up to a more respectable total. I was somehow reminded of that Grand old Duke of York who apparently gained pleasure from marching his men up and down the same hill, just for sake of it.
Back in 2015 this same ride has now gone down in annals of infamy for being one of the foulest days we have ever spent on our bicycles. On that occasion it rained non stop, the temperatures plummeted to near zero and, just to add some extra misery, we had at least 5 punctures. It was not a pleasant day. When we arrived at the hotel, we were not only frozen and soaked to the skin, but the luggage had not arrived yet, so we had no dry clothes to change into. So what did we do ? You woul dhave to ask one of the participants of that ill fated ride. Needless to say that there is truth in the saying that "desperate times demand desperate measures".
This year it was evident that no such desperate measures would be required. The cycling was absolutely idyllic. The scenery was lovely and the cooler conditions meant that we could cruise along effortlessly. Not only was the cycling amazing, but somehow David managed to find us the best Boulangerie of the entire trip. The place was a veritable cake eater's paradise, complete with a vast array of sweet somethings AND a working coffee machine. To make matters even better, it had a toilet. The elusive trifecta.
Somewhere along we also stopped at another old church to admire the unbelievable acoustics of the place, They certainly did not need microphones and speakers to fill the place with echoing sound.
Tim and I rode into Beaugency around 1pm and enjoyed a lovely lunch at one of the eateries. The rest of the team had stopped about 8 km earlier to visit a castle. After lunch it was only a couple of minutes to our hotel - L'Ecu de Bretagne, a very comfortable place that I remembered well from my previous rides along this route.Read more
C'est Tres Chaud Dans Orleans
September 15 in France ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
The city of Orleans has been continuously inhabited for thousands of years, although it has undergone several changes of name in that time. In Gallic times the city was known as Cenabum, later becoming Aurelianum under the Romans. The modern name of Orleans apparently evolved over hundreds of years from the phonetic spelling of the Roman name.
Whatever it is called, this city has played a prominent role in French history, and for a long time was the second largest city in France, next to Paris, The modern city of Orleans impresses as a prosperous and vibrant city, with a wonderful collection of well maintained buildings and a glorious cathedral. Unlike most of the other cities we have passed through, Orleans has smooth roads and footpaths and a fantastic transit system. The central hub is the large city square, complete with its ornate merry go round and large outdoor eateries. There is also a fountain under the pavement that regularly emits jets of water. In the current heatwave, this feature was extremely popular with people of all ages.
Before I could do any sightseeing, I did have one very important task to do. I went out in search of a nearby laundromat, eventually finding one about 10 minutes from the hotel. It also turned out to be probably the oldest one in the city. With a complete absence of instructions, and also a complete absence of other customers, I had to resort to just pushing each button to see what would happen. About 60 minutes later I left with a large bag of clean and (almost) dry clothing.
It was just too hot for serious exploring, but I did make it to the beautiful and very, very large cathedral. Inside it was relatively cool, so I took some time to just enjoy the serenity and peacefulness of the place. Then I went in search of lunch and noticed a sign advertising the Plat du Jour for only 12 Euro, I still don't know what the plate was, but it was delicious.
The most famous resident of this city was Joan of Arc. Back in 1429 as a teenager she helped lead the French forces to relieve the siege of Orleans. This brought her fame and some degree of adulation, however things did not so well for her in the years that followed. Joan was put on trial for heresy in Rouen on 9 January 1431. She was accused of having blasphemed by wearing men's clothes, of acting upon visions that were demonic, and of refusing to submit her words and deeds to the church because she claimed she would be judged by God alone. At about the age of nineteen, Joan was executed by burning at the stake on 30 May 1431. Now 600 years later her name and images are all over the city.
Although the city really is beautiful and the streets and buildings clean, there is one final comment I would make. As I walked about I could not help but notice the stains on walls and footpaths, caused by locals using them as urinals. I personally witnessed a gentleman "do the deed" in broad daylight, leaving behind his watery trademark for every else to have to walk through. On second thoughts, he was NO gentleman. Nobody else seemed to even bat an eye.Read more
TravelerReading your trip with interest. Say hello to Joan please. I remember her well from when we started riding from Orleans some years ago.
A Hot Ride to Orleans
September 14 in France ⋅ 🌙 21 °C
At just under 60 km, today's ride should not have been all that tough, especially now that our team is bike toughened after many days of cycling. We all found that the long stretch of dry, hot weather that has been plaguing Europe all summer, decided to increase the level of difficulty quite a bit.
As we rode out of Sully Sur Loire, we were quite staggered to see how little water there is in the Loire at this point. If the water level drops any further, they may have to drop the "Sur Loire" from the town's name. All along the bike route we saw huge regions of crops that had been destroyed by the fierce summer heat. It must have been so heartbreaking for the farmers who had worked so hard, only to see their crops come to nothing. Although the dry weather makes our riding simpler, we can all see just how desperate the situation has become. Today's forecast, just like about every day's forecast since we arrived, was for another hot day with a temperature around 34C. There is no rain predicted for as far into the future as the weather forecasters can see.
Although today's route tended to follow the elevated levee bank of the Loire for most of the way, the quality of the surface varied greatly. At times it was beautiful and smooth and at other times it was bone shattering rough cobbles.
About 20 km from the start we made a 3 km detour to visit the famous Germiny des Pres and its ancient church, claimed to one of the oldest in France and dating back to the Knights Templar, It was worth the effort, even though the rising temperature was starting to take its toll on our stamina.
We then resumed the ride, eventually finding refuge in a wonderful Boulangerie in Chateauneuf Sur Loire. The salmon wrap was probably the best I have tasted since arriving in France. The decadent cake was rather special as well.
With our tummies full we resumed the ride for the remaining 25 km or so to Orleans. By this time the sun was beating down fiercely and each km of progress had to fought for. When we found a patch of shade, we stopped to rehydrate and cool down a little. It turned into quite a battle.
When we finally reached the outskirts of Orleans, it was a huge relief, although we still had to navigate our way through the city to our hotel. The final kilometre took us through the beautiful central square with its impressive statue of Joan of Arc, the so called "Maid of Orleans". We could not help but notice how clean and well maintained the city was compared to just about every previous town we had ridden through.
Our home for the next two nights is the comfortable Hotel D'Orleans, ideally situated near the centre of the city. In the evening we walked back to the square for an outdoor dinner in Le Chancellerie, probably the most iconic restaurant in this part of town. It was a beautiful end to a long day. Tomorrow we can take a well earned break from the bikes and explore the city.Read more
Our First Real Chateau
September 13 in France ⋅ 🌙 21 °C
It would have been easy to stay in Briare for a longer time. It is easy to see why it is such a popular holiday location for the French. The combination of lovely waterways, colourful flowers everywhere and historic streets really does make it a treat for the eyes. Unfortunately we were only too aware that our schedule called for us to move on to the next stop - Sully Sur Loire, about 45 km further along the Loire a Velo bike path.
Before we left the town completely, we did have one very important task to do and that was visit the Boulangerie to buy some supplies for our picnic lunch along the way. Once we had our panniers loaded with baguettes, cakes and drinks, it was time to hit the road (or at least the bike path). The very best cycling conditions are in the early mornings, when the air is cool and clean. These benign conditions usually last until around 12 noon, when the sun seems to suddenly get much hotter and the cycling becomes more challenging.
While we were looking for a coffee stop, somewhere near Gien, we somehow managed to get caught up a local fun run. It was a little confusing and somehow, we found ourselves sharing the course with a large number of runners. I don't know how it happened, but I think I may have accidentally come in ninth in the over 70 category.
It was a very pleasant surprise when we stumbled upon a delightful shady picnic location at the Eglise San Gondon. In fact it would have been hard to imagine a more appropriate spot to stop and enjoy our lunches. Soon after we arrived, the nearby church bells peeled the Noon salute, which is such an integral part of European village life. After finishing my baguette, I felt so relaxed I just had to lie on the grass for a few minutes. Somewhat rude fellow riders later told me that I had been snoring, but that is something I could never believe. It could have been one of those famous European Barking Spiders lurking nearby in the bushes.
After our picnic, it was back on the bikes for the remaining modest ride into Sully Sur Loire. This turned into a big surprise as we arrived, right in the middle of some sort of village fair. Someone said it was like Antiques Roadshow only much bigger. Whatever it was, it was huge. Hundreds of cars had parked anywhere they could find a space, including right along the bike path ! In contrast to the succession of completely empty towns we had ridden through since this ride began, this one was busting at the seems. I was surprised that we had been able to get accommodation, as it must have been in short supply.
Our home for the evening was the comfortable Hotel Burgevin. I was pleased to hear that my room was on the ground floor, but this came with one serious problem. Whenever I opened the blind, I was greeted by people walking past in the street, just a metre or so from my bed. I guess you can't have everything. When I tried out the shower, I discovered to my delight that the towels were easily the best we have had so far. They were large and luxuriously fluffy. Bathing heaven.
Later in the afternoon I walked back to the impressive Chateau Sully Sur Loire and the nearby fair. My attention was drawn to the sound of French horns and I found that there was some sort of competition between the best and most brightly dressed horn players of the district. There were 18 contestants and they each took a turn to play the same piece of music. The thing that I found amusing was that, as each one played their piece, they turned their back to the audience. I guess this was because the sound came out at the back. Some combined their musical efforts with body movements that could have had me mistaken that they were playing the famous trouser trumpet, rather than the French Horn. It was another simple and unique insight into the French culture.
We had been told that our dinner would be at the nearby Entre Loire et Sologne restaurant. The only problem was that, when I checked their website, it clearly said that they were closed on a Sunday night. A check of my calendar confirmed that this was indeed a Sunday, Curiouser and curiouser.
I formed a walking peloton of our group, not knowing if the door would be locked or unlocked. It turned out that they had opened just for us. We had the large premises all to ourselves. It was a genuine Soiree Prive. The only staff was the chef (and prsumably the owner) and his attractive 17 year old waitress. Although we didn't get a choice of items, the food was well prepared and presented. It was a memorable end to a fun day.Read more
A Briare Bride and Groom
September 12 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
As I mentioned in the earlier footprint, toady we happened to stumble upon a very impressive wedding. These were no ordinary people, as can be seen by the standard of the clothes and uniforms that were being worn,
Dressed in my shorts, sandals and floppy hat, I was certainly the "one who was not like the others".Read more
Free Day in Briare
September 12 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
When designing this ride, I tried to make liberal concessions to the great age of most of our riders. Although I am personally in great shape and could almost certainly ride every day without growing weary, I know that some of our riders need their beauty sleep. That is why I factored in a "free day" for every two or three days of cycling.
On these free days, each person can choose to spend the time doing anything they want. It already seems to have been a popular choice.
I did not have grandiose plans for the day. I am happy just wander and see where I end up. So that is what I did. After walking back towards the dock, a turned left and strolled along one of the canals for a couple of kilometres. In the still, shady conditions it was about as peaceful a walk as you could imagine. The town of Briare would be easy to fall in love with. Not only is it quintessentially French, but the townspeople have made a huge effort to dress every part of the town in colourful floral displays. Although the hot summer had obviously proven difficult for some of the flowers, it was still quite a beautiful sight, or as the French would say "C'est tres jolie et tres propre".
When I realised that I was starting to leave the town behind, I turned around and made my way back to the centre of the city, then joined the banks of the Loire and followed it to the famous aqueduct bridge that we had seen yesterday, It certainly must have been quite an engineering feat when it was built, back in the late 19th Century.
Since I had brought my kindle with me, I sat at the same cafe we had enjoyed those lovely cakes yesterday and decided that it would be an ideal place for lunch.
Bay the time I was back the hotel, my legs were feeling weary, or as the French would say "J'ai la flemme". It really is a useful saying that can sum up a wide variety of situations. A nap was in order.
When I awoke I made my way back to the city centre where the church bells were chiming furiously. This went on for over 30 minutes! I could only imagine how exhausted the poor bell ringer must have been at the end of that chiming marathon. So what was the cause of the cacophony? A wedding, but not just any wedding, it was obviously a wedding of the offspring of some very rich and influential people in the society. The money spent on outfits, hairdos and makeup would have been equivalent to the GDP of some countries. The women had spent even more. It really was quite a sight, although I felt a little underdressed in my shorts, sandals and floppy sun hat, even though I did my best to mingle with the crowd. I even managed to elicit a smile from an older gentleman who was dressed up in a Charles de Gaulle uniform. I don't know what came over me at that moment, and I still don't know if a salute was the correct greeting, but it seemed appropriate somehow.
When the young bride and groom emerged from the church, they were greeted by a cloud of tobacco smoke from their waiting family and friends. It must have been a uniquely French custom. I thought the groom looked like a younger version of Prince William as he stepped into the drivers seat of the waiting sports car. I suspect that car was a wedding present from the parents as it was obviously the first time he had driven it, and I was more than a little concerned that he might have accidentally sent it careering into the milling crowd. Somehow he managed to find the correct foot pedal and the happy couple disappeared with a mighty roar of exhaust.
I have included some images of this spectacle in the next footprint.Read more
The Big Dry
September 11 in France ⋅ 🌙 16 °C
Today's ride had just about everything (and even two of some things). The day began with yet another glorious morning, without a cloud in the sky. Since we arrived in France three weeks ago, this is the weather pattern that we have been greeted with every morning, and the forecast says that it will continue like this for at least the next week.
Since Sancerre is situated right on the top of a mountain, our ride began with an exhilarating descent back down to the riverside. The main highlight of this section was crossing the elevated Viaduc de Saint-Satur. This imposing viaduct was built back in 1893 and now forms part of a dedicated bike path. We spent some time admiring the nearby small village, listening to the church bells and taking pictures, before getting on the bikes to resume the ride.
We had not gone far before the track deteriorated into a rough and loose surface, which demanded full concentration and a white knuckled grip on the handlebars. Just to up the ante even more we came across a steep and potentially dangerous descent that had quite a few of our team walking their bikes.
By the time we finally reached the relative safety of the canalside bike path, we realised that the canal was no longer there. It had dried up almost completely. The prolonged hot and dry weather has taken a terrible toll on Europe's rivers and canals and now we could see the stark evidence for ourselves. On the ride out of Nevers we had ridden alongside the Lateral Canal de la Loire for most of the day and wondered why we had not seen any boats. We were later informed that the canal is currently unnavigable, due to lack of water depth. The mighty Loire is also currently just a shadow of its normal majesty. What a contrast this is to what happened on our last European ride in 2024, when we rode alongside the Elbe and Danube Rivers from Hamburg to Vienna. At that time, massive rainfall in central Europe had sent these rivers into full blown flood and we were forced to shelter in Dresden for 5 days, before we could resume our ride. Two years later we are faced with the opposite extreme.
About 10 km from Sancerre we started to see the two giant cooling towers of the EDF Bellevue Nuclear Power Plant. As we rode closer and closer the incredible scale of these towers steadily became more evident, although we did notice that no steam was being emitted. Since nuclear power stations require enormous quantities of cooling water, we could guess that the plant has been temporarily shut down due to the ongoing water shortage.
It was along this section of the ride that we observed another unexpected spectacle. Turning a curve in the path I noticed a walker in front of me, sporting a tiny mini skirt, a large back tattoo and NOTHING ELSE. I didn't see that one coming. At first I did not know if it was a man or a woman, although the tiny floral mini skirt would suggest the latter. As I rode past I could not help but notice a couple of points that indicated that she was indeed a woman (although we did have some suspicions that she might not always have belonged to that category).
For a time, our new nude French companion seemed determined to become a part of our peloton, as she insisted on walking so rapidly that we found it hard to get away from her. There was probably an interesting story there, but I was much too shy to try to strike up a conversation.
The bike path skirted right around the nuclear plant with its high perimeter fencing liberally adorned with warning signs and many kilometres of razor wire. By this time we were all looking for somewhere to eat and have a coffee, but all the likely places turned out to be locked up.
After riding alongside another sad and empty canal we reached the outskirts of Briare, famous for its aqueduct bridge over the Loire. This 660 metre aqueduct bridge was opened in 1896 and was for many years the longest such canal bridge in the world. The stone and iron work bear the unmistakable input of Gustav Eiffel, who was one of the designers.
Impressive as the aqueduct bridge is, we thought that the nearby cafe was just as impressive. It's collection of cakes and chocolates certainly was eagerly devoured by our hungry team members. After a lengthy cake stop, we only had a very short distance to ride to our hotel in the centre of the town.Read more