A Night Ride to the Port
4 de outubro, França
🌙 20 °C
One of the most important aims of this ride has been to give everyone a taste of the authentic France experience. It is a complete contrast to what is commonly dished up to tourists on their "all of Europe in 7 days" package tours.
Over the past five weeks we have such a wide range of experiences that at times it feels almost overwhelming. We have stayed in hotels ranging from budget 3 star places to opulent 4 star extravagances. Some of these places have been hundreds of years old, while others are as modern as you could imagine. We have eaten in such a diverse range of restaurants, many of which were open just for us. We have ridden all types of surfaces, through large cities, forests and rural farmlands.
There is one thing that I would like to emphasize, these trips can be tough - physically, mentally and emotionally. They are definitely NOT for cupcakes and snowflakes. On the other hand, for those that come with the right attitude, they can become life changing. I have seen time and time again how people have come to reassess their pre-determined ideas of what they can achieve. At an age where most of their peers are resting in their comfortable retirements, our participants have ridden across France, coping with moving hotels almost every day, handling difficult terrain, battling weariness and illness. But they all have managed to cross the finish line in triumph. I am so proud of every one of them for their amazing achievement. They will leave with a storehouse of memories and probably fitter than they have been for many years.
Today was our final free day of the trip. This gave everyone a chance to walk around the city of Le Croisic and soak up the oceanfront views. This is very much an affluent area for the rich and famous of Paris to have their holiday homes. The place reeks of old money and privilege. During the summer months the beautiful homes are filled with holiday makers, but by this time of the year, the majority are now shuttered and sealed for the coming winter months.
This evening we held our final group dinner for the team. This was at L'Escalade restaurant in the Port of Le Croisic. This would normally have been a 30 minute walk from our hotel, however I had a better idea. Since we still had access to our bikes, I suggested that we complete one last ride and take the bikes instead. They are all equipped with headlights and taillights, so at least we would have some idea of where we were riding. So that is what we did. It turned out to be perfect and very memorable way to end an incredible trip.
Tomorrow morning our team will start to disburse on their various ways. I am sure they have all made new lifelong friendships and will never forget these past weeks we have shared together. Bon Voyage.Leia mais
Group 2 Arrives at Le Croisic
5 de outubro, França
🌙 21 °C
Since this was my last free day in Le Croisic, I was determined to do as little as possible. I think I achieved that aim quite well. For the past 5 weeks it seems like every waking moment was full of activity, so it was a wonderful feeling to finally have so much time, and so little to do with it.
I began the day slowly, finally getting to start the book that I had carried all over France, but not opened yet. Then I took a leisurely walk back towards Batz Sur Mer, hoping to have lunch at the fine Boulangerie I had noticed on my ride into Le Croisic. Well the walk went well, but the lunch not so well. When I arrived at the door of the Boulangerie, it was locked and bolted. I had forgotten that it was Monday, the day that so many places are closed. Oh well, c'est la vie, as the locals say.
Today was the day that Group 2 was due to cross the finish line, so I was determined to be there to witness the event. I was there, but in spite of waving frantically, no one in the group recognised me. I suppose I do look different when I am not wearing my Ghostrider gear, and the floppy sunhat probably made me look more like the proverbial village idiot, than another Ghostrider.
It was still something of a relief to see them all finish the ride, still in one piece and apparently having enjoyed the experience. With two groups now safely completed, there is now only one group still to finish.
In my spare time today, I compiled some statistics of our ride.
Total distance ridden - around 1200 km (for those who rode the Prologue)
Total punctures (Group 1) - Zero
Number of hotels stayed in (so far) - 26
Number of crashes - Zero
What a ride it has been !Leia mais
Hello St Malo
6 de outubro, França
🌧 19 °C
After three nights in beautiful Le Croisic, it was time to move on. My next stop was St Malo, a place I have grown to love from my previous trips to France. Not only was I returning to one of my favourite places, I was also going to stay in my favourite hotel. The Beaufort Hotel is situated right in the waterfront and offers uninterrupted views of the daily spectacle of the huge tides that this place is famous for.
In order to get from Le Croisic to Saint Malo, I had to take three trains, first to Nantes, then another to Rennes and then the final one to Sat Malo. Travelling by train can always be rather stressful as you never know whether they are going to be crowded or empty, or whether they will be stopped completely because of another strike. To my relief all the arrangements worked like clockwork, and by 2 pm I was checked into my familiar room. I felt like I was returning home.
I now have five nights here to read, walk and relax. Now that is a plan I am really looking forward to following.Leia mais
Who Flicked the Switch ?
7 de outubro, França
🌬 16 °C
I have always maintained that the seasons in Europe change in the blink of an eye. One minute the sun is warm and all the ladies are dressed in their best summer gear. The next day winter has arrived and suddenly all the women switch to their winter wardrobes.
For the past two months we have enjoyed an endless summer of still, sunny days and balmy evenings. Just two days ago people were swimming and sunbathing on the beach at Le Croisic. That all came to an abrupt halt yesterday. During the night I had heard the unfamiliar sound of rain falling outside my hotel room, and I awoke top an overcast sky. And what was that strange sound ? It was wind. Not just any wind, but a true howling gale, right off the ocean. The formerly placid waters on Sillon Beach were now changed into rolling whitecaps.
When I first ventured out of the hotel to walk to the Citadel, I had only made it about 100 metres when I realised I had made a serious mistake. Not only was the wind howling, but it was bitterly cold. I was silly enough to head off in shorts and thongs, and I was already frozen. I abruptly performed a U turn, returned to the room to don long trousers, socks, shoes and woolen beanie. That was more like it.
Even though I was no longer cold, the wind was a frightening adversary. At times it very nearly blew me off my feet. I could imagine the news headlines back home - "Elderly Australian injured when blown over by a puff of wind in St Malo". Believe me it was no "puff", it was quite scary. Other pedestrians were leaning over at extreme angles, just to remain standing. Because I have trouble thinking clearly, i decided to risk life and limb even more by climbing up to the wall on the famous ramparts, just to test if the wind was any stronger up there. It was. I had visions of another headline - "Foolish Australian tourist picked up by the wind and thrown into the Atlantic". Even with my beanie pulled right down to eye level, it felt like it was about to get ripped off.
After a lovely dinner of fish soup (ominously called "Soupe de Poisson" on the menu), I had to make the tortuous walk back to the hotel. On my left the breakers were crashing against the sea wall and spray was filling the air. It was quite a relief when I finally made it to the safety of the hotel.Leia mais
St Malo Walking
8 de outubro, França
☁️ 15 °C
It was something of a relief to awake and find that the wind had significantly abated. Although it was still grey and cold, at least it would be possible to wander the town without getting blown over. So that is what I did.
After breakfast, I headed away from St Malo in the direction of nearby Cancales, most famous for its huge oyster harvest. There are some magnificent homes and hotels on this section of the oceanfront, including the huge and impressive Thermes Hotel. As I walked past I wondered what the rooms would be like in that place, but quickly decided that I have never aspired to hobnob with the rich and famous. I am happy with my little room at the Beaufort. At least I have a beautiful view to the ocean and can observe the spectacular daily procession of the huge tides.
In the afternoon I walked the opposite direction, to the famous Citadel. It is woth pointing out that, although the "old city" of St Malo is certainly impressive, it is largely a reconstruction. Although much of the ramparts are original, around 85% of the buildings inside were blown up or burnt during the Battle of St Malo in 1944. Most of what you see now was built during a massive rebuild in the 1950s. The aim at the time was to rebuild the city "stone by stone". They obviously did a great job, as I am sure that most of the tourists who marvel at the place today while they ride around in the little tourist train, have no idea of the real history of the place.Leia mais
The Tides of St Malo
9 de outubro, França
🌬 17 °C
When talking about Saint Malo, there are two things that come to mind. The first would be the wartime history of the famous Citadel of St Malo, the second one would be the enormous tidal variations.
There are few regions on earth that can lay claim to having daily tidal fluctuations as extreme as those which are witnessed at St Malo. These fluctuations are an amazing 10 metres or more from low to high tide. Once a month the high tide is so enormous that the coast is battered by huge waves that people come from all over the world to witness. Without massive coastal defenses, the damage caused by these tides would be enormous. Over 200 years ago around 3000 oak trunks were set deep into the sand to dissipate the destructive force of the waves. In the early 20th century a very impressive stone seawall almost 2 km long was erected along the most vulnerable parft of the coast.
At the highest tides, the waves come crashing onto the seawall, often sending giant plumes of sea spray into the air and over the walking path. It is a dramatic sight, but just as dramatic is the transformation that takes place at low tides, when the water recedes hundreds of metres, exposing a vast sandy playground that the locals use for a variety of (usually wind based) activities. Our hotel is ideally situated to get a front row view of both of these extremes.Leia mais
Trauma on a Train
11 de outubro, França
⛅ 13 °C
With my time in beautiful St Malo rapidly drawing to a close, I had no desire to walk to the Citadel again (or anywhere else for that matter), Tomorrow morning I would be catching the high speed train back to Paris, and the long journey back to Australia would have begun.
The other important factor to take into account was that this evening would mark the highest tide for the entire month. Since my room had the ideal vantage point from which to observe this marvel of nature, I decided to spend my final night at the hotel.
After sitting on my terrace and watching the massive waves hit the seawall and reflect back into the incoming ones, my watch reminded me that I had booked a tables downstairs in the restaurant for 7 pm. When I arrived I was the only one there, but over the next 30 minutes or so, several others took their seats. It was then that I was witness to an incredible sight. No, I did not see a huge walrus thrown up against the windows by the waves. it was even more remarkable than that.
To my utter amazement I saw Richard and Karen Crawford walk in and take places at the table next to mine. Richard and Karen had been part of Group 2 on the recent ride, and I had already bade them farewell in Le Croisic. Since they are from Hobart, I did not know when, if ever, I would see them again.
After the initial surprise had dissipated, they went on to explain that I had told them about St Malo in one of our phone conversations and they had decided to come and witness it for themselves. Apparently I must have also told them which hotel I was planning to stay at. It certainly was a pleasant surprise to share a chat with them and recall some of the events of the past few weeks.
The next morning I packed my bags for the second last time and prepared for the train trip to Paris. Mark. Tim and I had all booked seats on the high speed TGR train to Paris Montparnasse and we were looking forward to a trouble free transit.
Well it started out pretty good. We all walked the 1.2km to the station and found that we could get on the train about an hour before it was due to leave. Even better was the fact that the carriage was only sparsely filled, and there was plenty of room for our luggage. "This was going to be so easy", I thought. The only scheduled stop was at the large regional centre at Rennes, then the train would fly at breakneck speed al the way to Paris. That was the plan, it was not the actuality.
The train left on time at 12.04 pm. then glided smoothly out of St Malo. It managed to reach Do de Bretagne, and then made an unplanned stop. Nobody seemed to know why, least of all the train staff. Time passed. Nothing happened. We sat and waited, eventually being told to get off the train and stand on the platform. Curiouser and curiouser. At least it wasn't raining. Many of the passengers took the opportunity as a perfect smoking opportunity, so up went clouds of smoke and toxic vapes. in the meantime we waited.
After some time of this ludicrous charade, the train moved out of the station. The somewhat concerning fact was that most of the passengers had left their luggage on the train. Since I am a cautious old man, I had dragged mine off onto the platform with me. After about 15 minutes the train reappeared on a different platform. We all climbed back on board, and it started moving again. We had been delayed ("en retard") for around 2 hours, but at least we were finally heading in the right direction.
The train finally rolled into Montparnasse Station at around 4.15 pm, just in time for peak hour traffic in Paris. We finally found an obliging taxi willing to risk jamming all of our luggage into his modest sized car and safely taking us to the Hotel Andrea in the Marais district.
Hotels in Paris are always something of a lottery, so I was rather relieved to discover that the hotel had a modern foyer, and an elevator. I was even more relieved when they managed to find our bookings on their computer. The relief came to something of an abrupt conclusion when we discovered just how tiny the rooms were. I have often joked about having a room so tiny that you had to go out into the corridor to turn around, except this room was so tiny that it didn't even have a corridor. The lift door virtually opened straight into my Lilliputian sized abode. The bathroom basin was right inside the door and I don't want to tell you how they had squeezed the toilet in. It certainly was not built for comfort. On the other hand, the place was clean, the bed was comfortable, and the location in the Marais was perfect. I only have to survive for 4 nights before I will be climbing onto the Emirates A380 to take me home again.Leia mais
Lunettes Pour Moi
12 de outubro, França
☁️ 18 °C
Back in 2019, when we had completed our 3rd ride along the Loire a Velo, Maggie and I took some extra time to drive around France and discover some regions we had not visited before. Our drive ended in Tours, where we returned our rental car and had a one night stay before making our way to Paris.
As we were walking the town after dinner, we came across a shop with the intriguing name "Lunettes Pour Tous". This translates as "Glasses for You". Further investigation revealed that they were claiming to be able to make a pair of glasses in 10 minutes for a cost of 10 Euro. Now that had my interest. I had always thought that glasses were hugely overpriced in Australia, and this seemed to add evidence to my belief. The information on the shop window and and their website explained that the whole process is computerised, and the savings in both time and money are passed on to the consumer.
We had never thought about getting a pair of new glasses as a souvenir of the trip, but it sounded like it could be quite funny. The only problem was that we had arrived after closing time and the shop was closed.
Our quest for French glasses was not over however, as we discovered that there was also a Lunettes Pour Tous in Les Halles in Paris. That was withing walking distance of our hotel in the Marais, so on our first free day in Paris, we walked to the store. Within minutes our eyes were tested and glasses were ordered. They were ready for pickup about 20 minutes later.
I have now been wearing those glasses for the past 7 years, but unfortunately both my eyes and I are now seven years older. Since I had nothing better to do on my first free day in Pairs, I thought I would go back to the store and get another pair (or two). So that is what I did this afternoon. The place was certainly much busier than it was 7 years ago, but the process was still quick and easy. Both the optician and the young salesgirl spoke excellent English, relieving me of the task of having to use my substandard French. So now I have another reminder of my time in France. They will be the souvenir that goes on giving every time I have to read something or sit at the computer.
As an aside I also heard on the news this morning that a famous Paris historic landmark was burned to the ground during the night. It was called the Marche des Infants Rouges (The Market of the Red Children) and it was over 400 years old. Unfortunately it now lies in ruins. Although it was only 2 km from my hotel, I had not heard the sounds of sirens during the night. That in itself is highly unusual for this city, where sirens are a constant background noise.Leia mais
A Trip Down Memory Lane
13 de outubro, França
☁️ 23 °C
The more time I have spent in Paris over the years, the less I have been interested in seeing yet more famous landmarks or historical old buildings, and the more fascinated I have become with the simple pastime of people watching. Time and time again, I just wander around watching the actions of the people around me. There is no doubt that the Parisians do have a certain unique style and they do love to watch and be watched. In French there is even a name for this, it is called being a flaneur. So today I took on the role of a Parisian flaneur.
As I wandered along the Rue de Rivoli, past the Louvre and the Tuileries, the Place de la Concord and the Grand Palais, not only did it bring back a flood of memories, but it also reminded me that, after 8 weeks of riding and walking, my legs were weary. I am now looking forward to being back home and returning to something like a normal lifestyle.
As I walked the Tuileries I recalled a time when I was here on Bastille Day in 2014. We had just completed challenging rides in Finland and Sweden and had also ridden the famous Coast to Coast route across the UK. After the riding was over, my very good friend Paul Coutts and I decided to spend some time in London and Paris. As Paul and I entered the Tuileries, the first thing we noticed was that just about every Frenchman and his father was wearing some sort of uniform. It appeared to me that every family must have a store of old military uniforms in their attic, just for wearing proudly on Bastille Day. The range of uniforms was astounding, with everything from French Foreign Legion to whimsical Napoleonic garb. I would not have been surprised to see Captain Feathersword from the Wiggles and Captain Kirk from StarFleet in the crowd.
It was the first time either of us had been in Paris on Bastille Day and it provided an interesting insight into the French culture. It seemed that the entire nation was taking pride in the mighty military victories that they might have won if the results had come out differently. We all knew that, since the days of Napoleon, the French had mostly been on the losing side in major conflicts. That didn't seem to matter in the slightest. Any nation that can produce the best bread in the world, can surely hold its communal head high.
After several kilometres of walking, my legs and my will gave up completely. I staggered back to the hotel and collapsed on the tiny bed for an afternoon rest. I awoke shortly afterward to find that a noisy student protest was taking place about 100 metres from the hotel. I went to get a closer look, but decided that most of the students looked like they were partying more than they were protesting. C'est La Vie.Leia mais
Last Tangle in Paris
14 de outubro, França
☁️ 15 °C
The last two months really have been a blast. Riding 1200 km across France, staying in around 30 different hotels, walking so many kilometres my legs ached and easting sumptuous 3 course meals almost every night is not easy. The fact that I have survived so far, even at my great old age of 75 years, gives me some source of pride.
But I am now ready to go home. I am tired of having a hotel room so small that I have to go outside into the street to turn around. I am tired of having to reverse into the toilet because it had been added as some sort of cruel afterthought to the room design, I am tired of not knowing how to control the elaborate plumbing in order to get the shower right (and why is it so different in every hotel?). I am tired of struggling to exercise my limited French every time I need to ask something.
I am ready to go home. I am ready to enjoy some space and familiarity. I want to see my family again. There is however, one thing that I will REALLY miss - those daily baguettes. To me it is an eternal mystery why we cannot make anything like them in Australia.
So what was I going to do on my last day in Paris ? The answer is - not a lot. The eternal summer was still in full force. The sun was shining brightly so no need for coats and umbrella. It was perfect for yet another walk. I still had a small amount of shopping to complete, but apart from that, my day was free.
The shopping was easier than I thought, so after my goods were safely back at the hotel, I walked down to the bank of the Seine, to bask in the autumn sun and watch people. What else would you do in Paris ? Love it or hate it, there is no doubt that Paris really is unique. Over the past few years, I had observed a huge increase in the number of people speeding the streets on high powered ebikes and scooters. While that has reduced the number of cars battling for space on the streets, it has added a new degree of danger when crossing the roads. Unfortunately the bike and scooter riders seemed to have universally adopted the principle that red lights do not apply to them. Time and time again, I have been about to step out to begin to cross the road, before noticing at the last minute that I was about to become roadkill. This evening I met with Mark and Tim for dinner and Mark shared that he had seen a pedestrian struck by a speeding cyclist. Apparently the rider did not even stop to check on the condition of the person they had just struck.
On the short walk back from the restaurant to the hotel, I noticed a police car and ambulance at the intersection opposite the hotel. It was an intersection I had walked through dozens of times over the past few days. This time there was someone lying motionless on the ground, apparently struck on the pedestrian crossing by an escooter rider. Even with the police presence, I noticed that riders were still happily riding straight through the red lights, much to the anger of the constabulary.
Tomorrow I begin the long journey home. Although the flight time is only around 24 hours, due to the mystical mathematics of time travel, it will take two days before I finally reach my front door. This will be my final update from the trip, The next entry will be when I am back home. I hope I have been able to share something of what we have experienced over the past two months, although these things really need to be experienced, rather than read about. Thanks for reading.Leia mais

ViajanteI have enjoyed reading your journal, it bought back many happy memories. Have a safe trip home. ✈️🛩

ViajanteYes, Christine and I have enjoyed reading your travelogue Dennis, and at our cafe stops on rides in Melbourne others have commented that they too have been enjoying following the ‘Loire a Velo’ tour via the commentary and photos; hope it’s a restful trip home on the wings of the big bird.
Home Again, Home Again
17 de outubro, Austrália
⛅ 25 °C
I am now safely sitting in my living room, listening to the sound of heavy, steady rain on my roof. Now that is a sound I have not heard in a long time. Having just spent two months in a drought-stricken France, it was a treat to the senses to hear that comforting sound of rain again.
Last Saturday I arrived back in Melbourne, after a somewhat long and uneventful flight from Paris. Although the plane arrived right on time, it appeared that a number of other flights must have landed at the same time. The long queue at immigration was quite chaotic, but eventually I was able to insert my passport into the scanner and emerge on the other side. Fortunately, I did not have to wait long for my familiar, but now somewhat tattered, old suitcase made its appearance on the carousel. Once out of the airport, the drive on the Monash Freeway was perhaps the best part of the trip. The traffic was almost nonexistent.
I was soon deposited at my front door and realising that the trip really was now over. After almost two years of planning and anticipation, it was a relief to know that it had gone so smoothly. Now I had to face the familiar problem of jet lag. This is the common feature of all returns to Australia after an extended period overseas.
Now a week has passed by, but I am still awaking in the early morning and falling asleep in the afternoon. Maybe that is because of jetlag, or maybe it is just something you do when you reach my age.
It will take a long time to wade through all my photos. It will take a lifetime to process my memories. I don't have a lot of time to rest, since I now have to resume my planning for next year's European ride from Bruges to Amsterdam. Maybe that will really be the last, but maybe there will be other adventures waiting for me in the years ahead. One thing is sure, life was never meant to be boring.Leia mais





















































































































































ViajanteI've enjoyed traveling along with you all. A great trip.
ViajanteBon voyage. Safe trip as you all head in different directions.