• The World on Two Wheels
авг. – окт. 2017

A Feast of French Cycling

In August 2017 a group of Australian cyclists travelled to Europe to complete a series of rides in Germany, France and the Channel Islands Читать далее
  • Начало поездки
    21 августа 2017 г.

    Three weeks to go

    29 июля 2017 г., Австралия ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The final few weeks till any big trip always fly past at breakneck speed, however for Maggie and me, the pace has been a quantum level higher than usual. Our eldest son recently purchased a home in Pakenham and took possession of the keys about 3 weeks ago. Since it needed considerable work before he was ready to move in, we have been spending every day doing our own version of "The Block".

    After 3 weeks of pulling up carpets, jack hammering floor tiles, removing plumbing, repairing kitchen benches, countless hours of painting, hanging blinds, etc we are both exhausted. The finished product has been worth it and he was able to move in a few days ago.

    We can now finally direct our full attention to the preparation for this trip. I have finally got my bag from storage and have started collecting all the items that are required for this type of travel. In three week's we will be heading off from Melbourne to Frankfurt and then on to Mainz for the start of our cycling. I can't wait to finally get underway.
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  • Unexpected News

    4 августа 2017 г., Австралия ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    With only a little over two weeks to go till we head off to Frankfurt to begin our 2017 European rides I thought that everything was pretty much settled. I had typed up the latest itinerary, rechecked the flight details, updated my travel folder and even finally started my packing. Nothing usually changes at this late stage of the process. I was wrong.

    While driving back home from Inverloch to Pakenham I had a incoming call from Dana at UTRACKS. "I have some news about your trip", she started.
    Such calls usually don't end well. I tried to control the rising tension and sound pleasantly surprised.
    "Oh yes" I answered casually.
    "It's good news" Dana added
    I relaxed a little.
    "We will be including some extra dinners at no extra charge to your group"
    Now she really had my attention.
    "How many dinners ?"
    "Quite a few, seven in fact"
    This was starting to sound a little too good to be true, but she went on to explain that we would now be getting restaurant meals for virtually every night of our upcoming rides in France.
    My previous trips in France had already taught me that French food is almost invariably delicious and I could feel my taste buds start to tingle.
    "Are you absolutely sure ?" I asked, thinking that maybe she had us mixed up with some other much wealthier cycling group. "Could you confirm that in writing ?"
    The following day she did exactly that and I was presented with the full updated list of evening restaurants. I kept thinking that there must be some catch. Maybe they were all restaurants that had a terrible reputation who were desperate to drum up some more business.
    I immediately summoned up my old travelling companion - Mr Google and asked him for more information about each of the additional restaurants. To my amazement I discovered that they were all highly rated establishments that had incredible reviews. Some were even Michelin rated !
    At that stage I had to make the difficult decision to share this news with the rest of the group or keep it to myself. To my eternal shame I was even tempted to keep it a secret and then pretend that I had decided to treat everyone to the additional dinners out of my own pocket. My conscience got the better of me and I just had to share this windfall with the rest of the team. They were all just as thrilled as I was - especially Carol who spent the rest of the evening drooling over the Internet images of the meals served up by each establishment.
    If we were looking forward to getting underway before, we are now even more eager to get our wheels rolling and our mouths chewing. Only a few sleeps to go....
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  • I Crack Up Before I Even Start

    13 августа 2017 г., Австралия ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    I always advise my team members that they should take things carefully for the final few days prior to departing on any new adventure. After all the months of preparation and planning, it would be a crime if someone suffered a serious accident or illness at this late stage.

    With little more than a week before we begin the 2017 European rides everything was finally nearly ready. The final travel details were received, my bags were (almost) packed, I had even booked the final few train journeys to complete our travels. All that remained was our final "training ride" before we could pack away our bikes and cycling gear. What could possibly go wrong ?

    When we arrived at the start of the final ride, even the weather was cooperating. The predicted rain was nowhere in sight, the howling wind had abated and all was ideal for a relaxing final few kilometres on the bikes. With 19 riders in attendance it was also a good turnout for a relatively short ride.

    Although Paul Cowen tried his best to have a crash in the first km and Gordon Logan suffered his twentieth puncture in the last couple of months, everything else went smoothly. Maggie and I arrived safely back at the car park, packed our bikes and bade farewell to our cycling friends.

    "See you in a couple of months", I yelled to the others as we pulled out of the car park.

    The only other obligation for the day was our attendance at our grandson's fifth birthday party at Croc's Kids Adventures in Pakenham. Nothing could go wrong there......

    We arrived at the party, feeling rather self conscious in our "super hero" costumes. The little kids had already tanked up with plenty of red cordial and were making more noise than a dozen locomotives. After trying to hear myself think for a little while I went in search of our youngest son and his wife. They are both in their thirties but have no trouble acting like five year olds.

    I found them in the middle of the African adventures, busily throwing soft foam balls at each other. As soon as I entered, I became the prime target. What choice did I have other than to retaliate by trying to throw some back in their general direction. I soon realised that my throwing arm is rubbish and certainly no match for a member of the Australian Dodgeball team. After trying a few more throws I retreated in defeat with a sore shoulder and a stinging right eye. I had been soundly defeated.

    It was only when I awoke the next morning that my stupidity became fully apparent. I found I could not lift my right arm above waist height without severe pain. Obviously my limp armed throws had been sufficient to cause significant damage to my shoulder. Growing old really sucks.

    My newly discovered injury did have some advantages as it meant that I could not hang up the washing on the line and it gave me an excuse for not doing the vacuuming as I had promised. On the other hand (or should I say other arm), I really do not need such an injury so close to the beginning of our big ride. I can only hope that it heals quickly.
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  • The Long Journey Begins

    23 августа 2017 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    There is no doubt that Australia is a LONG way from Europe. No matter which way you try to sugar coat the fact, there is no easy way to get from Melbourne to Mainz without undergoing a significant amount of physical and mental suffering along the way.

    The first step of the long journey began at 10 am on Monday morning when the shuttle bus pulled up outside our house. I was relieved that it was on time and was happier actually moving than just sitting around in the home waiting to get started.

    The driver grabbed our bags and stowed them into the rear compartment and then started on a circuitous route to Tullamarine. It soon became apparent that the bus had some sort of mechanical malfunction that caused it to veer alarmingly to the left every time he applied the brakes. The driver also spent much of his time with his eyes glued to his mobile phone, sending and receiving messages. I assume that the road rules that apply to other drivers do not apply to shuttle drivers.

    The combined effect of the faulty brakes and the divided attention meant that we spent much of our journey wandering dangerously from lane to lane on the freeway. It was not a relaxing way to start the trip, but fortunately the traffic was lighter than expected and we arrived at the airport earlier than anticipated. David and Carol Yates were already there and were waiting to greet us when we rolled our bags into the International Departures section. By now we were starting to feel that another amazing adventure was about to start.

    The lady at the Singapore Airlines check in desk must have had a bad night. Although we were only the second couple to check in, she was already in a bad mood. She looked up without so much as a semblance of a smile and grabbed our passports. In the process Maggie's frequent flyer card fell out and disappeared out of sight. When she asked for it back again she was told that it was "never there". The unhelpful lady was certainly not prepared to look for it and only grunted as she handed back our passports. It was not a great start. We had no alternative than to accept that it was gone and hoped that we would not need it later.

    Since we had such a long journey ahead I thought I should follow the classic piece of seniors' advice to "never walk past a toilet". I was somewhat alarmed to hear a concerned female voice right behind me as I was standing at the urinal. Even more alarming was the fact that the voice was warning me of all the myriad of urinary, bladder and impotence issues that can beset men my age. I looked around, wondering if I was being watched by some overhead camera, but came to the conclusion that it was just a recorded message. It seemed a cruel way to taunt someone and a surefire way to initiate a case of bashful bladder. I emerged into the terminal thinking that 1984 really had arrived.

    After checking in the luggage we rejoined David and Carol for lunch before moving to the departure lounge for our flight to Singapore. The time went surprisingly quickly and soon we were taking off and on our way. Seven and a half hours and a couple of movies later we were landing at Changi Airport. The first leg was over, but the big challenge still lay ahead. From Singapore to Frankfurt lay over twelve hours in the metal sarcophagus, 38000 feet above the ground.

    It was while we were entering the departure lounge for this second flight that the second mishap took place. David looked at Carol and asked "where is your luggage ?" It was nowhere to be found. They had obviously left it sitting near the seats somewhere in the airport. David took off with a look of panic on his face and reappeared some time later with the missing luggage. It could have been a disaster, but fortunately all was OK.

    Things actually went comparatively smoothly for most of the next 11 hours. I even managed to grab a few hours of broken sleep before I finally awoke at around 4 am and looked for something to do. I was sick of watching movies and pulled out the in flight magazine to thumb through.

    "Hey Maggie, look at this - they have a crossword we can do". I reached into my bag for my pen and snapped off the lid. Nobody had warned me that this is a dangerous thing to do in a plane. As soon as the cap was removed the entire contents of the pen exploded all over my hands. It was also all over Maggie's hands and the seatbelt. Some had even splashed onto my new trousers. We immediately grabbed for a packet of tissues and struggled to contain the navy blue torrent. All thoughts of the crossword were forgotten and we went straight into damage control mode. I staggered to the toilet, looking like some sort of elderly fool who had disgraced himself (probably because I actually was an elderly fool who had disgraced himself). The only thing I could be grateful for was the fact that it was still dark and most of the passengers were still fast asleep.

    I spent the next ten minutes using about 40 litres of water and a whole container of soap trying to remove the muck from my hands. It was only later that I discovered the damage to the trousers. I just wanted the flight to end, which it did about an hour later.

    We emerged from the plane tired and stressed but still alive. The flight had thrown up its challenges but we had prevailed. I knew from previous experience that the memories of the flight are soon forgotten once the fun part starts. David and Carol emerged from the plane in less than perfect condition. "That was the worst flight I have ever had" Carol explained. "The seats were tiny, the food was rubbish and everyone around us was sick". Well I guess that explained it. David also explained that he had suffered a serious "seniors' moment" when trying to put sugar in his tea. He saw the little packet labelled sugar and tore off the end before emptying the entire contents into his cup. He did not realise that there were actually two sachets in the packet and he had just tipped an entire sachet of pepper into his tea along with the sugar. Of course he had no alternative but to go ahead and drink the entire fetid fluid, or else he would have looked like a blithering old fart. Some days are like that.

    We stumbled our way through the chaos of the airport and somehow emerged with our bags, looking for the train station to catch the train to Mainz. It was very confusing for very old people who had come from the other side of the planet, especially when the employees of the train company also had no idea how to buy the required tickets. They were even more confused than we were.

    After about 20 minutes of frantic button pushing we finally retrieved something that looked like four tickets and struggled to find the correct platform. The first train to pass by was crammed to the doors with a throng of people. Considering the amount of luggage we had I was not looking forward to trying to survive in such conditions, but to our relief our train was only sparsely full and we were able to travel in comfort.

    About twenty minutes later we were at the Mainz Central Station and looking for our hotel. We were still far too early for check in and so decided to sit by the river Rhine instead. We soon discovered a lovely shaded outdoor dining area behind the Hilton Hotel. It was a relief to just sit and chat and relive some of our experiences. At our ages we quickly forget everything and therefore it is wise to share experiences before they are lost forever.

    At 1 pm we walked to the Hotel Havana and checked into our comfortable rooms. The owner has a fascination with all things Cuban (hence the name) and the halls are decorated with large Cuban images.

    We finished the day with a wander through the large market and bought some food for a dinner back at the hotel. With four sets of bloodshot eyes and four sets of drooling teeth we must have looked like a zombie's birthday party as we blindly tried to put food into our mouths. Somehow we battled to stay awake to around 7.30 pm before finally collapsing into our beds in an incoherent heap.
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  • We Take a Wander

    24 августа 2017 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    It is staggering how much difference a few hours sleep makes. Last night we could barely string 2 sensible words together and it took a huge amount of effort just to walk from one hotel room to the one next door. Now, after a good 8 hours rest, we both felt like new people. Unfortunately when we looked in the mirror we found the same old faces staring blankly back at us.

    We had previously arranged with David and Carol and Gordon and Sue to have a late breakfast at the Hilton Hotel on the banks of the Rhine at 9.30 am. When we emerged from our room we saw David happily sitting on the outside veranda. He explained that he had already walked to the supermarket to buy his breakfast. This was something of a surprise considering our previous arrangements, however both David and Carol had obviously completely forgotten what had transpired the previous evening. That is one of the many challenges in taking a group of old people on a European bike ride.

    We tried to refresh their memory about the arrangements that they had previously agreed to and a short time later, the 6 of us were gathered alongside the river and enjoying breakfast. Of course, for two of the group, it was the second breakfast of the morning. During the breakfast we enjoyed some light hearted banter with the Columbian waitress who explained that she had come to Germany to complete her degree.

    After breakfast I explained that I had planned a short walk to help rid us all of the cobwebs of the long flight. I pointed out the route that I had worked out and assured everyone that it "would only be a couple of kilometres". We all formed a walking peloton and trudged off toward the large bridge across the Rhine to Weisbaden. By the time we reached the far side of the river Carol had already pulled up lame. '

    "I have a bone in my leg and can't walk any further", she explained. We had no other alternative than to abandon her by the riverside and continue on without her. And continue we did. The short walk developed into quite a long walk as we meandered along a series of bike paths that wandered in and out of the beautiful large trees. At one stage we had to make a large detour inland to cross the River Main. After about 8 km the other 4 walkers were starting to look at me with mutinous eyes. "I'm hot", Maggie complained. "And I'm thirsty" Sue added. "Not far now", I lied.

    Somehow we finally staggered onto the railway track and found a way to cross back over the Rhine to our side again. All that remained was the final 4 or 5 km back to the hotel. It had developed into quite a expedition, but gave us all a chance to enjoy a long chat and to get our muscles moving again after the prolonged inactivity of the plane. It was probably the very best thing we could have done.

    After a couple of hours we rejoined Carol who was hard at work resting on a seat by the river. She did not seem in the slightest disappointed that she had missed out on our 10 km expedition. The remainder of the day was spent in a much less energetic fashion and in the evening we enjoyed a lovely pizza dinner in a restaurant near the Dom. Later we wandered back to the Rhine to have a coffee in the twilight at the Big Easy Restaurant. A lone saxophone player entertained us with a succession of haunting melodies. The evening was warm and still and we watched the large river cruisers make their way up and down the river. We were quickly starting to develop an affection for this lovely city by the water.

    I decided to do a little research and discovered that the population of Mainz is around 200,000. During the war around 80% of the central city was completely destroyed so I guess that explains why there is comparatively only a small number of genuinely ancient buildings still standing. It certainly is a very clean city and we felt very safe walking the streets after dark.

    With the arrival of David and Karen Brown our team has now swelled to 12 and more will be arriving tomorrow. Our ride officially starts on Saturday, in the meantime we are determined to enjoy a restful time enjoying the city.
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  • We Discover a Real Genius

    25 августа 2017 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Our time in Mainz has been an absolute delight. It has proven to be the perfect way to recover from the long journey and to prepare for the more demanding schedule once the cycling starts this weekend. After a comparatively late start we walked back to the centre of the old town looking for a place to have breakfast. We settled for a lovely restaurant right near the Dom. Outside the crews were busy assembling a huge stage and overhead tent for some sort of upcoming activity. We later discovered it is some sort of liturgical function to ordain a new bishop (archbishop, cardinal, pope, etc) and that all the media would be there for the event. I couldn't see that happening in Australia. We also noticed that the city was also preparing for another exciting event. All over the town they had raised huge flags with giant bicycle symbols on them. It was obvious that somehow word had got out about the arrival of the famous Ghostriders cycling team and that the town had pulled out all the stops to make us welcome.

    On the way back to the hotel we stopped by at the Gutenburg Museum. Johannes Gutenburg was the most famous son of Mainz and his invention of the movable type printing press in 1459 is recognised as the most important invention of the second millennium. It was his device that began the information revolution, the renaissance, the reformation and the "Age of Enlightenment". I thought we should learn a little more about him. Two hours later we were both so glad that we had taken the time, especially when our great ages qualified both of us for the extra low admission price of only 3 Euros each !

    The story of Gutenburg really is amazing. When he came up with his idea for the printing press he needed a financial backer and borrowed a considerable sum from his brother-in-law. He then not only had to invent the process of printing, but even had to perfect the formula for the ink. Over a period of three years his business was able to produce around 180 copies of the bible. The typesetting and printing process allowed them to print about 200 copies of the same page a day. The pages were set aside to dry while work started on the next page.

    Previously it had taken an expert copier around 3 years to hand copy a complete bible, so Gutenburg's process was a huge improvement. The problem was that he was not such a great businessman. The funds were mismanaged and after the first 180 bibles were printed, old Gutenburg was in trouble. He was taken to court and made bankrupt. The press was closed down and the production of bibles ceased. Although he had worked out a working method to mass produce books, it took many years before the presses started printing again.

    Of the original 180 bibles, only 49 are now accounted for and two of them are now in the Gutenburg Museum. These are stored in a massive vault on the second floor, along with several other priceless examples of early books. The value of these artefacts would be in the order of a 100,000,000 Euros or more, so the security is quite impressive. I learnt this when I lent over the glass case to examine them in more detail. A few seconds later a guard ordered me to "stop touching the glass". I felt suitably humiliated and apologised profusely. "I am just a stupid old Australian who does not know any better", I explained. We soon became friends and the guard then spent quite some time with us answering our questions. It was clearly evident that he felt it was a huge privilege for him to be able to be so close to these special books every day of his life.

    After our time at the museum we returned to our hotel for a short break. One thing that I find interesting about Europe is the ear splitting volume of their emergency vehicles. Unlike in Australia where you can hardly hear them, the vehicles here have sirens that could be clearly heard in the neighbouring countries.

    It was while we were in our room that I could hear a rising cacophony of sirens coming our way. I looked out the window to see a convoy of fire trucks, police vehicles and ambulances speeding past our hotel. They were certainly on a serious mission to get somewhere fast. The sirens faded into the distance, but a couple of minutes later I could hear more coming. The strange thing is that these were coming from the opposite direction. By the time the volume rose to true eardrum bursting levels I was surprised to see it was the same vehicles flying past in the opposite direction. They had obviously been going the wrong way. The faces on the drivers were as red as their fire engines. I just hoped that the fire was only a small one. I was even able to watch the spectacle of further emergency vehicles trying to U turn right outside our room. It brought back memories of those wonderful keystone cops.

    Later in the day we met Paul and Claire Cowen and went back to the town centre to have a drink with them. We noticed a rather dishevelled guy staggering around the square with his backback undone and a glazed look on his face. Hang on, the face looked familiar. It turned out to be Douglas. He had just arrived in Mainz after his harrowing journey from Australia.

    When we pointed out that his zipper was completely undone (his backpack, not his fly) he left his bag with us and retraced his wandering steps to make sure that he had not dropped anything. Fortunately all was OK, although he really did look like he needed a rest (maybe about 4 days would be sufficient). We welcomed him to Mainz and noted that we now had about 13 riders safely in the city.

    A couple of hours later I received an SMS from Bob Andrews (rider 14). Apparently he had just collapsed into the city also. His message read simply "I am in a lather and am heading to the shower". He had apparently forgotten the normal sequence of events and had soaped himself up before getting in the shower. The next 5 weeks will be interesting !

    Maggie and I had decided to have a simple picnic dinner in our room so went to the supermarket for supplies and then carried them back to the room. I could not wait to enjoy the fresh baguettes and fruit we had bought. The only problem was that David and Carol had stolen our butter. It was in their fridge and they were nowhere to be seen. I had to go out in search of another supermarket to buy some butter. I managed to find such a place, just a few short kilometres from our hotel and then staggered back into the room. By now I really was ready for our feast.

    We unpacked our goodies and pulled open the drawer to get the cutlery out. I discovered that the butter was not the only thing that David and Carol had taken - all of our knives, forks, spoons and plates were also in their room as well. I rang David and tried to explain that we were starving, but due to a hearing aid malfunction, he couldn't hear a word I was saying to him.

    After a very late dinner and a coffee by the river we finally collapsed into bed around 10.30 pm. It really had been a great day.
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  • Claire Becomes a Sexagenerian

    26 августа 2017 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Our day began with a group breakfast at the ALEX cafe in the centre of town. The rat pack has now grown to 14 people so we are becoming quite a force in this city. During breakfast Greg announced that he and Andrea had discovered a beautiful ruin of a church and they would love to show it to the rest of us. I could have added that, if I really wanted to see any ruins, all I had to do was look around the table, but somehow Greg convinced the group that it really was worth seeing.

    After finishing the breakfast we formed a walking peloton with Bob Andrews and Douglas Lee staggering along in the rear. After a few hours sleep Bob insisted that he was no longer "in a lather", but I had to admit that young Douglas looked like he was still sleep walking.

    Greg took up the lead position, while the group followed behind. I could only hope that no one would see us, since everyone knows how much I deride such tourist groups. All Greg was lacking was a red umbrella - and a sense of direction. We wandered aimlessly back and forth through the streets. "It's this way", followed by "I think it's up there", finally "I don't know where it is". Talk about stating the bleeding obvious. I looked around and tried to pretend I had nothing to do with the rest of the group.

    Eventually Maggie saw a sign pointing to St Christophe's ruin (or something like this). With renewed vigour Greg set off again and, about 20 minutes later, we finally found the place. It was about 50 metres away from where we had breakfast.

    The women seemed excited and went off exploring the ruin. The men went off to explore the nearby bike shop. Douglas went to sleep standing up. About 30 minutes later we decided it was time to split up. People dispersed in different directions. Douglas staggered along, trying hard to remain vertical. I was starting to worry about the staying power of these young people.

    About 20 minutes later Douglas woke up enough to make a frightening discovery. No, it wasn't that he had had his fly undone the whole morning. It was far worse than that. He had lost his mobile phone. That finally woke him up. With his legs flying he set off back to the ruined church and, to his relief, found that it was still there. It would have been a terrible way to start the trip.

    Maggie and I then spent the rest of the day looking for the wine festival that David and Carol had told us was so amazing. Due to David's directions we never had any real chance of finding it, but did manage to see most of Mainz and much of the surrounding towns in the search. We finally just gave up and decided to sit by the river instead. It was a lovely place to watch the continuous parade of boats going up and down the river.

    The evening was going to be one of the early highlights of the trip, after all it is not every day that someone turns 60. In our group it is much more common for someone to be turning 70 or 80. Claire had previously announced that tonight would be her birthday party and that everyone was invited to come along and bring a present. She had even chosen the venue. It was called the Holy Ghost (Heiliggeist) Restaurant and it was in the middle of a huge converted church. The name certainly seemed appropriate for a group of Ghostriders and, when I found that it was right next door to our hotel, I readily agreed that it was a great idea.

    At 6.45 we were ready. I even put on my good pair of pants and was pleased that we had been able to remove some of the blue ink from the front of my groin. (see the infamous plane incident previously reported). The fine weather had broken and a heavy rain started pouring. We were glad that we only had about 20 metres to walk, while the others would have to walk across the town.

    I had tried to make the booking via the Internet from Australia, but my single word German vocabulary (Nein), did not make the process simple. Fortunately the Maitre D was expecting us and escorted us to our table. With the arrival of Lionel Rex, our group had swollen to 15. It would have been even more if Mary Kinch's flight had not been delayed in Melbourne. The delay had caused her to miss the connecting flight and, the last I heard from her she was stuck in Dubai airport. I felt sorry for her and glad that we had allowed several days to cover such contingencies.

    We took our places at the large table they had prepared for us and soon we were sweating profusely in the stifling humidity. We all made makeshift fans out of anything that was not nailed down (and a few things that had been nailed down as well). After much pleading we succeeded in getting the waiter to open the huge side door. That helped a lot, but I think that they might have been worried that we were about to do a runner.

    The food was very well prepared and the huge servings meant that much was left on the plates. We presented Claire with her presents and she seemed pleased with the sterling silver bicycle necklace we presented her with. A couple of rounds of "Happy Birthday" and some cheers completed the occasion. "But where is my cake ?" she asked. I looked around having to admit that I had not seen that one coming. "It was too large to bring on the plane", was all I could think of. It could have been true.

    While this was happening Bob Andrews had obviously got his second wind (but that is not why we wanted the door opened). He started off on one of his animated political discussions. With arms waving and chest pumping he proceeded to explain to Douglas why our politicians are all rubbish. Douglas responded by closing his eyes completely and wishing he was sitting at the other end of the table.

    An hour later we had finished our dinners, Douglas was still fast asleep under the table and we decided that it was time to retreat to someplace quieter. Douglas staggered off to bed with Bob continuing his political lecture right behind him. The rest of us wandered into town to find a suitable place for coffee. The rain had stopped, leaving the wet cobblestones glistening in the lamplight. This is the real essence of European cities.

    The evening concluded with coffees and another round of Happy Birthday for Claire. It had been a memorable night. Tomorrow we will bid farewell to the city that has been our home for four nights and board our boat for the first leg of our ride.
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  • We Set Sail on the Rhine

    27 августа 2017 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today was the day to formally begin stage one of our adventure. Our home for the next week will be the MS Andante, a large passenger "barge" able to carry around 80 passengers. Our Ghostrider group constitutes about 25% of the total, the rest are mainly German speaking so I don't think that we will be able to do much socialising with them.

    Over the next week we will be moving south along the Rhine till we reach the city of Basel. Each day consists of a mixture of cruiisng the river and riding our bikes. The schedule means that we are always back on the boat for our evening meal.

    Yesterday afternoon the boat cruised from Mainz to Gernshein where we moored for the evening. Today we began with another short cruise to Mannheim. That was the cue to unload the bikes (and it is quite an undertaking to unload around 70 of them) and begin our day's ride.

    The cycling was quite easy with numerous stops along the way. The main stop was the famous city of Heidelberg. Entry to the city was via a huge ornamental gateway. We were very impressed by the beautiful old city centre and arrived to find the entire central square was filled with colourful tables and umbrellas.

    After exploring Heildelberg, we resumed our ride to Speyer, our destination for the day.
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  • We Travel Under the Radar

    28 августа 2017 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We are already up to day three of the Bike/Barge section from Mainz to Basel. Due to almost non existent wifi on the boat I cannot access the Internet until we arrive in Paris in a few days time. In the meantime we are all having an amazing time. The weather has been superb for riding (25 to 28C) and clear blue skies every day. We are so thankful that we did not get the excessive heat that many parts of Europe have been experiencing.

    Last week there was a serious incident on the Rhine where a river cruise boat collided into 3 boats that were triple moored. The police have now banned all multiple moorings on the river and this has caused some confusion in the industry. For us it has just added an extra layer of interest, so we are not greatly concerned.

    We began our cycling by riding into the centre of Speyer. We found a large crowd of American tourists gathered outside the huge cathedral. I somehow let slip a derogoratory comment about Donald Trump and was promptly confronted by one of the Americans who apparently though that Trump was the best thing that had ever happened to his country.

    After cycling to Sonderheim we reboarded the boat to sail to Rastatt-Plittersdorf. The mixture of cycling and cruising is really quite magical and gives ample time to relax and enjoy the varied experiences along the way.
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  • A Visit to Strasbourg

    29 августа 2017 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Up till now we have been travelling in Germany, today was our first chance to cross the border into France. The region of Alsace-Lorraine is officially now part of France, but still retains a typical German character in its culture and architecture. This is especially true in the large city of Strasbourg.

    Many trivia quizzes contain a question about which country Strasbourg lies in. I suspect that many people incorrectly answer that it is in Germany, whereas it is actually situated in France.

    Our group found a beautiful restaurant by the river where we stopped for lunch. It would have been hard to find a more idyllic location. Some of the ladies then went off to buy some Alsatian lace, which the region is famous for.
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  • Lots of Locks

    30 августа 2017 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    The most memorable feature of the day's cruising was passing through several huge locks. It was an impressive feat of boatsmanship to get the large MS Andante safely through each obstacle.

    We are now entering some of the well known wine growing regions and we could see large terraced vineyards on the sides of the nearby hills. The beautiful Black Forest is also not very far away.

    Today's ride and cruise took us to Rhinau-Breisach.
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  • The Beautiful City of Colmar

    31 августа 2017 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The day was spent riding to the town of Colmar and back again. The MS Andante remained moored at Breisach while we cycled. Maggie and I had previously visited Colmar on an earlier trip to France and immediately fell in love with the place. The combination of medieval, half timbered buildings and flower lined canals is the stuff of postcards.

    We spent some time riding and walking around the centre of the town and discovered that the city was just as beautiful as we remembered it to be. Many of the buildings are adorned with collections of flowers, hearts, chairs and just about anything else they could find. Each building is painted a different bright pastel shade and the combined effect is breathtaking. The bridges are also a work of art, some almost completely covered with floral arrangements. This city must certainly rank among the most amazing cities I have ever visited.
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  • We Reach Basel

    1 сентября 2017 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This morning the barge sailed to the small French village of Chalampe. That is where we commenced our last cycling day along the French bank of the Rhine River via Ottmarsheim and across the border to Switzerland..

    Our final destination was the city of Basel, situated where the borders of Germany, France and Switzerland meet. Although the main city is in Switzerland, some of the suburbs are in France and Germany.

    Basel also justifiably calls itself the “City of Gourmet” with more than 20 restaurants appointed a Gault Millau or Michelin rating.

    Our view of Basel was a little jaundiced by the somewhat grubby area that the boat moored at. We found ourselves surrounded by a motley collection of old factories, overgrown paths and a rather weird circus. We never did figure out what this circus was really about as it seemed to be just a group of young dropouts having fun. It was a somewhat strange ending to the first stage of our adventure.

    Tonight will be our final night aboard the MS Andante. Tomorrow we will be catching the train to Paris to begin the next part of our adventure.
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  • Paris - The City of Love

    2 сентября 2017 г., Франция ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    This morning we caught the high speed (Grand Vitesse) train to Paris. It is an amazing feeling silently flying along at 300 kph on a French train. While we flew along the tracks we could see the magnificent rolling Burgundy countryside passing by outside. This is one of our favourite regions of France.

    I remember being fascinated as a child watching Dr Who for the first time. It was beyond my belief that the inside of the Tardis could be so much larger than the outside. Some fifty years later I had my own personal experience with an Inverse Tardis. I had carefully chosen our hotel using the Internet and the pictures of the rooms certainly looked large and luxurious. After a week of Internet starvation on the MS Andante we could not wait to explore the massive rooms we had booked in Paris and enjoy the benefits of unlimited high speed Internet access.

    The Villa des Princes was certainly located in a lovely part of Paris. The left bank is the home of the Latin Quarter, The Sorbonne University, the Musee D'Orsay and many other wonderful old buildings. After our high speed train trip from Basel to Paris Gare de Lyon we stumbled out through the crowds to the taxi stand and proceeded to do battle with the hundreds of others who were also waiting to grab a taxi. Some are obviously more experienced at this form of mortal combat so it took some time before we managed to pile our bags and ourselves into a vehicle and start moving. It took a good while longer for the driver to push his way through the impenetrable tangle of other taxis (all the while with the meter running) and finally emerge into the haphazard street network that makes Paris so bewildering for first time visitors.

    From the outside our hotel looked great. The concierge was even expecting us. "We have a lift" he proudly explained as if it was a brand new invention. We were directed around the corner and found the object he was so excited about. It was about the same size as a bar fridge. Maggie took one look in it and took off up the 3 flights of stairs to our room. I was left with all the luggage. I put one leg into the tiny lift and tried to pull in a suitcase after me. The door wouldn't shut. I squashed my face into the wall and pulled the case tightly against me. I pressed the button, hoping that the damned thing would not trap me inside. The door finally shut and the contraption slowly ground its way upwards. It was not pleasant, but sometime later I fell out onto the third floor landing. I had to repeat the process another two times before we were all reunited again.

    The room itself was good, or at least it would have been perfect if we had both been pygmies about 3 foot tall. It was quite a challenge to get both us and our luggage inside at the same time, but it was clean, the bed was comfortable, the bathroom was excellent and the air conditioning actually worked well. It was our home for three nights.

    After jamming our luggage into the room, we headed off on a short walk to the nearby Luxembourg Gardens. It was a perfect way to begin our short sojourn in Paris.
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  • Paris from the Heights

    3 сентября 2017 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Although we had been to Paris several times before, neither of us had ever been to the top of the Montparnasse Tower. We thought that this could be a suitable time to venture there, after all it is the highest point in the city..

    I was interested in seeing a new view of Paris. Maggie saw the queue and panicked. "I am not doing this" she yelled in my ear. "It's perfectly safe", I tried to reassure her. I felt her fingernails dig right into my palms, almost drawing blood. We shuffled forward and paid our 17 Euro each. Maggie threatened to have a turn, and I really thought that she was going to.

    "It's bigger than the lift in our hotel" I explained, knowing full well that no lift on the planet could possibly be any smaller. Somehow she stayed upright and made it into the lift. A few seconds later we emerged on the 56th floor. Maggie went a nasty shade of pale green, but somehow made it to the window. Amazingly she was soon so distracted that the heights were forgotten. Her camera started clicking and she started looking for the landmarks of the city that we knew so well.

    On the very top of the building is an outdoor observation deck, requiring another couple of flights of steps of climbing. I set off to the top, knowing that Maggie would never follow me. To my surprise, she did. We also met Greg and Andrea, who had also chosen this same time to visit one of the highest points in Paris. Apparently Greg suffers from a fear of heights too, but was also distracted enough to actually enjoy the experience.

    After an hour or so of picture taking and a pretty ordinary coffee, we took the trip back down and returned to our hotel. Later in the day we met up with Bob, Greg and Andrea and Gordon and Sue for a night cruise along the Seine. Although we had done it several times before, it is still a great way to see Paris by night, even if it was starting to drizzle a little.

    All seven of us then walked the riverbank all the way back from the Eiffel Tower to the Louvre. The rain had passed by and the evening was warm and still. A couple of wandering musicians were playing haunting French melodies. We stopped at a lovely Brasserie to enjoy coffee together, as after all we were in Paris and it seemed the appropriate thing to do. By the time we finally tumbled back into our room our feet were tired, but it had been a wonderful day.
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  • A Day to Wander

    4 сентября 2017 г., Франция ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    This morning we joined with David and Carol to have lunch in a lovely little cafe on the Isle St Louis. We had previously eaten here several times and knew that the Plat de Jour lunches were always excellent. We then had a brisk walk to Angelina's Cafe du The on the Rue de Rivoli. This place is one of the most famous tea rooms in Paris and is known as the place where the rich and famous love to be seen. Ten of us stumbled in, dressed in crumpled clothes and tried to look the part. We all failed miserably, especially Bob.

    The hot chocolate is almost enough to instantly clog every artery and the cakes certainly require a huge amount of determination to devour, however we all did our best to do the place justice. Even after the long walk back to our hotel we still felt bloated, so much so that the thought of dinner was enough to make us almost want to puke. Eventually we found the Monoprix Supermarket and bought a couple of punnets of raspberries. It was just about the perfect ending to another long day.
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  • Rambouillet to Chartres

    6 сентября 2017 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Yesterday, on our final morning in Paris we packed our bags, confronted the lift for the final time (it didn't seem quite so small this time) and assembled in the foyer. The concierge had now become our friend and we exchanged a few jokes before catching a taxi and heading to Gare Montparnasse for our train to Rambouilllet. This is where we will resume our cycling adventure to cycle to Mont St Michel. Although we loved Paris dearly, we were keen to get back out onto the paths less travelled and see some more of the real France.

    Rambouillet is a very charming town, situated about 50 km south west of Paris, on the edge of the huge Forest of Rambouillet. It is also famous for being home to the historical Chateau de Rambouillet.

    Our bikes had been left waiting for us at the hotel. On first examination we were all vey impressed. The bikes all looked very new and each one had been neatly labelled with the name of its intended rider. After a short test ride we left them securely behind the hotel and went off to enjoy our dinner.

    It was only when we rolled the bikes out this morning that one of our riders made a most unwelcome discovery. Back in Australia Gordon had already firmly established himself as the undisputed King of Punctures. He seemed capable of getting a puncture on virtually every ride. He had previously experimented with different brands of tyre and tube, but the punctures always continued unabated. It was obviously some sort of special talent that he must have been born with.

    We had all been hoping that Gordon's ability to attract punctures would have been left behind in Australia. After all, these were completely different bikes with different tyres. We were even in a different hemisphere ! What could possibly go wrong ?

    It was only when all the bikes had been lined up outside the hotel that we noticed that one of the bikes had already suffered a puncture. And we hadn't even ridden them yet ! Closer examination revealed that the bike in question was bearing the name tag "Gordon". Typical, but not a great start to the day.

    Fortunately we had been provided with a couple of spare tubes and, about 30 minutes later, we were finally ready to get underway. We hoped that it would be the only such puncture Gordon would suffer during the remainder of the ride to Mont St Michel. (How wrong we were.)

    Our first stop for the day was at the nearby Chateau du Rambouillet. We had to admit that it certainly was impressive and the manicured gardens must require an army of gardeners to maintain. The thick gravel crunched under our wheels as we carefully rode to the front entrance.

    The rest of the day was spent riding to the city of Chartres. This city is most famous for its huge Gothic Cathedral. We all thought that it resembled the even more famous Cathdral of Notre Dame in Paris.

    Our restaurant for the evening was the L"Esprit de Gourmande", situated right alongside the Cathedral. We had been told that it was a top rated place and so we went in with high expectations, but maybe they were having a bad night. The courses were slow in being served and the time dragged on and on. Although the quality of the food was OK, the staff seemed completely disorganised and had a lot of trouble trying to sort out our drinks bill at the end of the night. It certainly was not what we had been looking forward to.

    After dinner we walked around the Cathedral to see the impressive light show which is projected onto its towering walls from a multitude of different angles. The late summer evening was warm and still, and the visual display was stunning. It had been another superb day (although possibly not so good for Gordon).
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  • Chartres to Illiers Combray

    7 сентября 2017 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    This morning we returned to the Cathedral to explore inside and see the massive stained glass windows. It was then time to get back on the bikes to continue our journey.

    The ride took us along a lovely succession of peaceful country roads. This really was the type of riding that we had been looking forward to, although anyone who had expected a "flat" ride would have another think coming. The road seemed to be always either rising or falling (mostly the former), which meant that it was by no means an easy day in the saddle.

    We arrived at Illiers Combray in the middle of the afternoon and went in search of our hotel - the Hotel Les Aubepines.

    The tiny town is best known for being the home of the French poet Marcel Proust. It has not changed much and has preserved the charm of past times.

    The Church of St. Jacques is the model for the church featured so prominently in the first part of Marcel Proust’s literary masterpiece, À La Recherche du Temps Perdu (Remembrance of Things Past). The church dates back to the 13th century and was rebuilt in 1497, with the aid of Florent d’Illiers, who fought alongside Joan of Arc.
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  • Illiers Combray to Nogent le Rotrou

    8 сентября 2017 г., Франция ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    I have discovered when travelling that it is the unexpected events that are often the most magical. This was true when we reached the little town of Thiron-Gardais and went in search of a place for lunch.

    David decided to ride ahead (as he often does) and we rode after him (about a kilometre behind). None of us had any idea of what was ahead, but we somehow found ourselves outside an obviously ancient church. The garden was overgrown and the walls looked like they were on the verge of collapse. It was just my sort of place.

    We left the bikes and walked around the outside wall, looking for a way to get inside. Once inside, we were fascinated by the antiquity of the place. Ancient wooden pews had obviously been sat on by untold thousands of worshippers over the centuries. Overhead we looked up to see the crumbling timbers that were doing their best to stop the entire roof from collapsing down on us. A rickety ladder led up to the ceiling space, although it looked like it must have been a very long time since anyone would have been game enough to make that journey. You could feel the history in every nook and cranny of the place. It was a delightful, serendipitous discovery that was the highlight of the day's ride.

    We arrived at the town of Nogent le Rotrou and found that the imposing castle was locked and bolted. There was no option but to continue to our hotel.

    Our evening meal was at the L'Alambic Restaurant. This turned out to be too far from our hotel to walk, so we organised a taxi to drive back and forth to ferry us all there. After our less than happy experience at the previous evening's restaurant, this one will be remembered for all the right reasons.

    The food was superb, the waitresses were even choreographed in their movements as they served each course and the young owners were delightful. Everything about the place was amazing. It was easily the best meal of our entire time in France.
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  • Nogent le Rotrou to Belleme

    9 сентября 2017 г., Франция ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Most of today's ride was through beautiful natural forests. The big problem was that the road was always going up and down. It was never horizontal. The undulations were never ending and the women were soon complaining that they all wanted ebikes. That left us with a decision to make.

    When we stopped for lunch at Preaux-du-Perche I looked carefully at the GPS track for the rest of the day's ride. It was then that I made a startling discovery. The route proceeded in a huge loop, before returning almost to the exact spot where we were eating our lunches.

    I suspected that there must have been some good reason why the organisers had wanted us to take such a huge detour. The women were not convinced. After a brief discussion (and a lot of foot stamping tantrums), the women all made the decision to take the 200 metre shortcut, while the men all rode the hilly 30 km diversionary loop.

    I led the reduced peloton up into the mountains. The women sat in the sunshine, waiting for our return. Although I was expecting to bring back news of some amazing sights, what we did find was forests, lots of forests. There were no huge castles, no cathedrals, not even a museum. But there were hills, lots of hills.

    The men pedalled on, wondering why they had been so duped. We puffed our way up hills, then huffed our way up more hills and finally chuffed our way down a short downhill. We finally stopped the bikes in the middle of a lovely treed place and started to talk. It became a great time to share our thoughts, without any interruptions from the women. Although the castles did not eventuate, the "male bonding time" in the forest almost made the hard ride worthwhile.

    Some hours later we made it back to Preaux-du-Perche and rejoined the (well rested) ladies. The reunited group continued the hilly ride to Belleme, where we spent the night in the Normandy Country Club. Unfortunately this was situated on the top of the highest hill in the entire region. The strenuous climb to the hotel consumed what small amount of stamina we had remaining. It had been a long day on the bikes (and much longer for some than others).
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  • Cycling the Voie Verte to Alencon

    10 сентября 2017 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    One of the best features of exploring a country by bicycle is that you never know how each day is going to turn out until you have lived through it. Due to the serendipity of travel, you could actually do the same trip over and over again and every single time would prove to be quite different. This fact was illustrated in yesterday's ride.

    As we rode out of Belleme our legs were all weary because of the hard day of hill climbing we had experienced on the previous day. For some riders it was clear that another hill could be enough to break them into little pieces. We rode out of the Normandy Country Club in the middle of a thick fog and were immediately riding up a long hill. Oh dear. Fortunately the good night's sleep and a big evening dinner had replenished their energy and no one was complaining. At least not yet.

    We stopped for a little while to explore and photograph the beautiful town centre and then pedalled off on our way. Up another big hill ! We soon found ourselves riding through a beautiful beech forest and we were immediately captivated by the sheer beauty of the place. While we stopped at the side of the road a passing van driver pulled over to say hello (or actually Bonjour, since he spoke not one word of English).

    The next ten minutes or so were spent in a wonderful conversation where we told him that we were from Australia and that we were headed to Mont St Michel. All the while his van was parked in the middle of the road, however the traffic was non existent so it made no difference to anyone.

    We finally parted with many smiles and waves and were on our way again. The simple encounter had sent everyone's spirits souring and the hills did not seem to matter any more. Even the light drizzle seemed like a blessing rather than a curse as it made the most peaceful sound as millions of drops gently fell from the branches of the trees to the forest floor.

    The road rose and fell for the next few kilometres until we reached a beautiful village, filled with flowers. We dismounted and entered a wonderful little inn where there was a roaring open fire blazing on the hearth. Around the walls were dozens of antique coffee makers of every possible shape and size. The owner welcomed us warmly and kissed the hands of the ladies. His coffee cost less that $2 a cup and his smiles were free.

    By 1 pm we were ready for lunch and found a delightful picnic spot by a lake. We unpacked our baguettes and made a wonderful feast of ham, cheese and tomato sandwiches. While all this was going on, Gordon's back tyre was quietly going down. This was about the fourth puncture that Gordon had suffered and he was getting a little sick of it.

    We set to work at the repair and inserted the undersized spare tube into the tyre, pumped it up and started to replace it on the bike. Pfffft - it went down again. Oh dear, no more tubes of that size, but we did have some better ones of the correct size. The only problem was that they had the thicker Shraeder type valves and would not fit the rim. I had a brainwave. Why don't we drill out the hole and make it bigger ? All we need is a man with a drill. Maggie and I picked up the wheel and walked into the nearby town. There seemed to be no one around. The place was deserted. We knocked on a door, no answer.

    We wandered further and eventually found a man fiddling with an ancient motorbike. "Bonjour" we said and then showed him the wheel. He smiled. We seemed in luck. He returned with a battery drill and a rusty collection of about 3 drill bits - none of them the right size. Nevertheless he was keen to help and set about destroying the rim with French enthusiasm. About 10 minutes later he had managed to enlarge the small hole to a ragged giant orifice. We thanked him and his wife profusely before shaking hands, saying Au Revoir and returning to the rest of the group. Soon the bike was reassembled and we were on our way again. Another magic moment.

    Most of the afternoon's ride was on a converted train line - the so called Voie Verte (Green Way). The path took us through the dense forest of the Natural Park of Perche. For many kilometres we were able to ride without meeting any other riders. It was a great time to simply enjoy the experience. Because it was an old train line, there weren't even any hills to worry about.

    Unfortunately the early morning hills had taken their toll on Carol's ebike battery and she ground to a halt with about 10 km still to go. We had no alternative other than to continue without her and then hope to arrange transport for her and her bike.

    The shady Voie Verte bike path seemed to go on forever but eventually we reached Alencon and found our hotel. We explained to the owner what had happened to one of our riders and he offered to go back to collect her. All we had to do was determine where she was. When we managed to contact her on the phone, to our amazement she was only a few hundred metres from the hotel ! Somehow she had used all her powers of determination to ride the heavy bike, without a battery, into the teeth of a rising head wind and arrive only a few minutes behind the main group.

    We were relieved to find our hotel was spacious and comfortable and our evening meal at the Relais D'Alsace was large enough to feed a much larger peloton. On the way back from the restaurant in the dark we had to work very hard to avoid accidentally planting our feet on one of the numerous large dog turds that were scattered liberally over the footpath. I think most of us succeeded. We retired to bed late but wonderfully satisfied.

    We were also greatly buoyed by the fact that tomorrow is a rest day. It will give us a chance to explore Alencon and catch up with our pile of overdue laundry.
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  • Feeling Free in Alencon

    11 сентября 2017 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Rest days are always something to look forward to. After the daily stress of packing your bags and riding from place to place, it is a relief to have a little time to unwind and catch up on the laundry backlog. It is a wonderful feeling to have lots of time available and very little to do with it.

    After a delightful time was spent wandering the city we found a likely looking boulangerie to buy our lunches. The baguette queue was already forming at the counter, indicating that the latest batch was ready from the oven. David somehow managed to push his way to the front of the queue, watched by about 20 startled French men and women.

    He did not seem aware that the guy behind him had his beloved small dog on a lead in the shop. To our horror David planted his size 11 shoe right on the dog's foot, at the same time as he bade a cheerful "Bonjour" to the dog's owner. The dog immediately let out a pained yelp, but David did not hear a thing. He must have had his hearing aid turned off at the time.

    He proceeded to keep his foot firmly planted on the poor animal, the dog continued to cry and the owner just looked on in shock, probably worried about how much the vet would charge him.

    After what seemed like an eternity, David took his baguette and left the counter. The dog finally retrieved what was left of his paw. David put on his most friendly smile and turned away from the owner. We all tried to pretend that David did not belong to us. It had been one of those embarrassing international incidents. In the past wars have started over much less than this.

    When we were safely away from the gathering lynch mob, we tried to explain to David just what he had done. For some reason he didn't believe us.

    The afternoon was spent walking to the nearby river and exploring the attractive centre of the city. After the obligatory visit to the Laverie Libre (coin laundry) we returned to our hotel. Tomorrow we resume our ride to Mont St Michel.

    It was also good to be be reunited with Bob Andrews who had rejoined the team after taking a diversion to explore the WW1 battlefields of northern France. Bob will now be with us for the remainder of the rides.
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  • Cycling to Bagnoles de L'Orne

    12 сентября 2017 г., Франция ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    After initially riding through even more natural park we came across the very imposing Chateau de Carrougues. It was certainly something worthy of further exploration, so we left the road and ventured inside. In the meantime David and Carol had remained behind at our lunch stop to try to put some more charge in Carol's battery. When the battery was finally charged they somehow managed to ride right past the Chateau without even seeing it.

    After walking around the Chateau we resumed our ride to Bagnoles de L'Orne. When we arrived we were somewhat surprised to find that the town was a huge tourist resort, complete with casinos and many large hotels. Our hotel bore the rather strange name of Spa du Beryl, but we were very happy to discover that it was quite a luxury establishment. Maggie and I were even more thrilled to find that our room was one of those that faced the beautiful ornamental lake. The views were spectacular. We could almost pretend that we were wealthy.
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  • The Peloton is in Tatters

    13 сентября 2017 г., Франция

    Day 24 of our 2017 European rides was the day that almost destroyed the peloton. We awoke to black skies and a deluge of freezing rain.. The headwind had strengthened overnight to a force 10 gale. And then the bad weather arrived.

    It was hard to maintain pelotonic enthusiasm when we all knew full well just how big a challenge lay ahead. Not only was the weather abysmal, but this was going to be the longest distance of the entire ride. We began by donning every piece of wet weather gear we could find and still looking for more. I tried to cheer the team by promising them that the rain would soon stop (knowing all along that it was predicted to get even worse).

    We headed out in low spirits and were soon wobbling our way up a succession of hills. The rain started to penetrate every weak point in my wet weather armoury. The hills kept going. The pedals kept spinning. Carol's battery started to fail. Things were not looking great. And they weren't.

    The temperature plummeted as we passed a roadside temperature gauge, 9C and dropping. The hot days of two short weeks ago were nothing more than a distant memory. Somehow we kept battling along for 25 km or so until we found refuge in a small village coffee shop. The owner seemed excited to see us, even though we were dropping water all over his tables and floor. The chocolat chaud was certainly welcome, so we each drank two cups. This boosted the local economy and our spirits, until we emerged and discovered that the weather had gotten even worse. It was positively awful.The rain was continual and the skies as black as coal. This was not the delightful summer cycling we had come so far to spend our kid's inheritances on.

    At least the roads were quiet, or they were until we found ourselves riding along a busy highway with huge trucks barrelling past at 100 kph or more and splashing even more water on us. Surely people our age should be content with nothing more adventurous than a game of barefoot bowls ? Don't you believe it. In a strange way we were all loving the experience. You never really know what you are able to do, until you are put to the limit and this was certainly true today.

    To our relief we finally turned off the road onto the Voie Vert cycle path and joined a lovely old rail trail which would take us all the way to our destination at St Hilaire. In fine conditions this would have been a breeze, but the torrential rain had converted the entire path to soft black mud.

    After 30 km or so we were all completely covered in the muck. Each time we stopped we laughed as we compared who had collected the most muck on themselves, their bikes and their panniers. By this time the hard going had succeeded in draining Carol's battery completely. Surely things couldn't possibly get any worse ? Unfortunately they did.

    A short distance further along we found that Bob had turned around and was heading back in the opposite direction. At first I thought that his ancient mind had cracked completely and that he was trying to ride back to his home at Cockatoo, however he managed to yell that he had lost the GPS from his bike and was looking for it. I reluctantly U turned and headed back with him. After a kilometre or so I had to accept that I was near exhaustion and could not go back any further. In addition, the rain had washed old sunscreen from my helmet into my eyes. They were stinging so badly I could barely see. This really was a ride of biblically bad proportions.

    I once again U turned and tried to ride towards the destination. We had seen no sign of the missing GPS. Tears were running down my face as I struggled to force the bike through the quagmire. The distance seemed never ending, but finally our group collected on the edge of St Hilaire and looked for our hotel. The mud had destroyed our brakes and the conditions had (almost) destroyed us. But not quite.

    When we found the hotel the owner kindly provided us with a garden hose so that we could hose each other off in the main street. And that's what we did, leaving a stream of muddy water flowing down the gutter. This provided huge merriment to the local teenagers coming home from school. We were cold, we were filthy, we were tired but in a very real way we were really happy. We had done something together that few people our age could have done. It was not the way the original script had been written, but it was what we had been given. In the years ahead I am sure we will all cherish that day we suffered and prevailed.

    After we had all showered and cleaned up ourselves we enjoyed one of the best meals of the entire ride. It was absolutely superb. Yes, really, really delicious. And the weather forecast for tomorrow ? Yep,rain, rain and more rain.

    And yes, Bob's GPS is still lost somewhere along the trail.
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  • We Mount the Mont

    14 сентября 2017 г., Франция ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    In the immortal words of Kenny Rogers, sometimes “you’ve got to know when to hold them, know when to fold them, know when to walk away, know when to run”. If there was ever a time to put this advice to the test, this was it. After the belting we had taken yesterday, the peloton was not in prime shape. Shoes were still wet, washing was still drying, energy reserves were low and the team was looking to me for a brave decision. I did what anyone else would do under these circumstances – look out the window to see what the weather was doing. It was the same as yesterday, still pouring. Considering that we had another 30 or more kilometres to complete along the black quicksand, (otherwise known as the bike trail), it was very unlikely that most of the peloton would be up to the challenge. I certainly wasn’t.

    “Do you really want to ride ?”, I asked.

    “Not really”, was the overwhelming response. They are obviously much more intelligent than they look. But what other option was there ? I decided to ring the travel company to see if they would take pity on a group of pitiful elderly Australians.

    “Bonjour Beatrice”, I began in my best French. “Please help us”, I blabbered, trying hard to hold back the tears (maybe still an after-effect from yesterday’s sunscreen in the eyes). I explained our situation and asked for her to move heaven and earth to save us from another day in the freezing mud.

    “I vill reeng you beck”, Beatrice promised.

    A few minutes later I had the solution I had been hoping for. Apparently they would be able to arrange a taxi and trailer to transport us and our luggage to Mont St Michel, but our bikes would have to wait till the following day. Of course a few Euros would have to quietly change hands to keep the driver happy. All in all, a most agreeable solution.

    I called the group together and outlined the plan. When I told them that they could take off their filthy cycling gear and change back into proper clothes, their faces broke out into huge smiles. Apparently it was the news they had all been hoping for.

    About an hour later we were all packed and changed into warm and dry clothes, waiting for the taxi. It arrived on time and most (but not all of us) were able to climb inside. Maggie and I ended up in the front seat, next to the driver. Although this gave us a great view, it also gave us several near death experiences. Soon after we started moving it became evident that the driver not only spoke not a single word of English, but also had not the foggiest notion where Mont St Michel actually was. He reached for his GPS with his left hand and his mobile phone with his right hand, leaving the steering to take care of itself. While his head was buried in his electronic devices the minibus wandered straight over the double line onto the wrong side of the road. Maggie’s nails dug a deep crater in my right thigh.

    The driver looked up at the last moment and then jerked the wheel to the right, sending us right across the road onto the verge on the right side. We tried to keep his attention on the road, but he kept getting SMS messages, phone calls and emails (maybe from his stockbroker, or possibly his undertaker) while he was driving.

    The circus continued for the entire drive to the outskirts of Mont St Michel. From time to time we caught glimpses of the famous tidal island and the driver seemed just as excited as we were. I suspect he was surprised that he had actually found his way there.

    As we reached the entrance to the main street of Mont St Michel we were stopped by a boom gate. The driver looked mystified. We pulled to a stop. He looked into space, scratched his head, babbled something in French and just sat there. Behind us a huge line of waiting buses and cars started to build up. The driver rang someone on his phone but the call seemed to keep dropping out. The queue behind us grew ever longer, until eventually a driver came up and asked him what he was doing. He scratched his head and finally turned out of the way and did a loop around the block to have another go. The whole charade was repeated a second time, until finally we saw the boom gate on the exit go up. We pointed to it and the driver swerved across the road and entered via the exit, accompanied by a chorus of cheers and clapping from the Ghostriders.

    We found the hotel (thanks to my GPS) and pulled up outside. The driver opened his door and looked out, at the same time accidentally dropping his jacket out the door. He didn’t see it and started to reverse. We yelled at him about his jacket, but he just smiled and laughed. Maybe this was all part of the performance. It certainly was great entertainment. A bystander banged on his window and pointed to his front wheel. He finally showed interest, got out and retrieved the filthy remains of his coat. He seemed quite mystified as to how that could possibly have happened. Such is life in France.

    We bade farewell to the driver, thankful to be both alive and still dry. After dropping our gear at the hotel we set off to explore the famous landmark that is visited by millions of tourists every year. The distinctive towering abbey dates back to obscure beginnings in 708 when Aubert, Bishop of Avranches had a sanctuary built to honour Michael the archangel. For most of its existence it was only possible to reach the island at low tide, but a recent elevated road and walkway now allows the onslaught of tourists to reach it at all hours.

    Although it is possible to travel across by free tourist buses, we chose to walk across instead and experience the visual sensation of seeing the abbey growing in size as we drew nearer and nearer. Carol’s first experience of the famous abbey was not a pleasant one. As soon as she opened her umbrella, the howling wind grabbed it from her fingers and quickly sent it souring into the air and out of sight. I had visions of Carol becoming a modern day Mary Poppins and sailing right over the abbey rooftop, holding onto the handle of her umbrella. Like Bob’s GPS, the umbrella is probably now somewhere over the English Channel.

    We last visited this spot a few years ago and, although it was crowded then, the crowds have now grown to almost unbearable proportions. As soon as we entered the lower parts of the Mont we were surrounded by a crush of tourists that had all been disgorged from their tour buses. A large percentage were holding on to their cursed selfie sticks so that they could photograph themselves in front (and thereby completely obscuring) every nook and cranny. Those that weren’t carrying selfie sticks were sucking on stinking cigarettes, blowing smoke into every else’s face. This is NOT my favourite type of location. After an hour or so of doing battle with the masses we retreated to the quieter outskirts of the abbey and sought some personal space and fresh air.

    For a short time we succeeded, but soon even this refuge was overrun by a line of smokers. I could not help but feel disgusted at the way they tossed their butts straight down onto the ancient paths or flicked them into the ocean. This place might have survived the elements for a 1000 years, but I can’t see it standing up to the battering it is taking from the tourists every day. We were glad to leave the chaos and walk back to our hotel, assisted by a roaring tailwind. We enjoyed this simple pleasure much more than the abbey itself.

    In the evening it was another superb dinner, this time at the Relais du La Roy. Apparently this is the best restaurant in town and the food was superb. I chose the seafood platter for entrée and it would have been enough to serve as a main course at any other restaurant. I somehow managed to spread it all over the tablecloth , my napkin, shirtfront (and even send a spray of something from a squashed prawn onto the adjoining table). I think people suspected that I am not skilled at this sort of thing.

    After dinner we took a final look at the floodlit island and staggered back to our hotel. Tomorrow we move to St Malo.
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