One of Jacques Cousteau's Top 10

We were off to the dive shop, bright and early. Got checked in, then called home to wish everybody a happy Thanksgiving. We boarded the Calypso, and sailed out to Poor Knights Islands. They are not sure why Capt. Cook named them Poor Knights, but they have been designated a marine reserve, due to their pristine quality above and below the water. We were fitted with 7 mil wet suits (I'm not a cold water diver, by the way), and a tonnage of lead weights, so as not to float away in the wet suit. Upon donning our gear, we now looked like the penguins and waddled the same way too! As one hits the water on that giant stride, there is an immediate sense of tension, as the body is revolting against the extreme conditions. The water feels like ice, and to my poor uncovered hands, they are expecting to run into a glacier any moment. Amazingly, the wet suit does its job and only my hands and feet suffer much.

We first dive Cave Mao Mao. This is the site that Jacques has rated as one of the top 10 in the world. Our visibility isn't the best, but it is a great dive. Lots of fish I have never seen before and interesting anemones and corals. Upon surfacing, everyone makes for the tea, coffee and hot soup. Our surface interval is spent driving around the islands, in and out of sea caves, and lounging in the sun. It's actually sunny and warm! YEA!!!!! The second dive is down Magic Wall and along the adjacent reef. The growth is spectacular. I cannot believe the life on this volcanic island. Blues, greens, purples, even neon orange. It is truly amazing. Kim has some problems in the cold and surfaces early, then the next couple go up, then the divemaster-in-training surfaces; but I go the distance: 57 minutes of true ecstasy (well, if it was warmer, this was more like true satisfaction). I got to the boat, teeth chattering and body shaking, but smiling. This was a good day.

We sail back to Tutukaka, sitting in the sun the whole way. We drove up to Russell for a day of sailing tomorrow.Read more