Castles, Abbeys, and two more curbs

Wow! We're we tired. We fell asleep at 7:30 last night and woke up at 11:15 this morning. So much for my plan to get up early and see Kilkenny. We didn't get out of our room until about noon, which put us back about three hours, but, admittedly, I do feel rested. We walked down to the Kilkenny Castle, which used to protect the area from invaders, cattle rustlers, and common thieves. The castle has an enormous park that unrolls along a sleepy river. The grounds now house a soccer field, basketball courts, and picnic areas. Seems like a little less angst than back in the days of thwarting armies with arrows and catapults.

After a couple of tries, we got out of Kilkenny and on the road to Cashel. As you drive into Cashel, the castle, sitting atop the limestone hill, dominates the landscape. Named the Rock of Cashel, it was the home to Munster kings for centuries. It was fought over for many years until the 1100's, when the king gave it to the church, so people would stop attacking. A brilliant strategy. However, I prefer another story of the Rock. According to local myth, the Rock of Cashel originated in the Devil's Bit, a mountain near Cashel. When St. Patrick banished Satan from a cave in the mountain, the Rock landed in Cashel. Regardless of the origin, the rock looks to be the highest point in Cashel and overlooks the Tripperary plains. The structure is imposing, walls rising high in the cathedral. With roofs lost many years ago, plants grow from the stone bricks. In one area, there is an archway that is fashioned with heads all along the arch. The bottom heads are described as "grotesque" but they become more serene as they move up the arch and closer to God.

After the cathedral, we moved out to the graveyard. The guidebook indicated that there are a few more vacant spots for the living; these people were placed on a waiting list by their relatives back in the 1930's. That's some foresight! From the graveyard, you can look down the hill to the Hore Abbey below. With a name like that, we had to visit. Kim was a little apprehensive, as we had to walk through some fenced areas to get there. "I think we're trespassing," she said with great concern. I assured her that Rick Steves had given me the instructions, and this seemed to relieve her a bit (note to self, use this excuse in the future).

The Hore Abbey gets little press but was very interesting. It was a nice size abbey, in its day, with several rooms and worship areas. Outside are the tombstones, which have surrendered to the moss and moisture. Since it's not on the beaten path, it was nice just to stroll along the fallen stones in the quiet cool air, without the disruption of others.

Leaving the abbey, there were several cows hanging out by the abbey walls. I got a little worried when I thought of my friend Bruce and his recent brush with a stampede. One minute they can be chewing cud and the next they can be chasing you. I chose not to tell Kim what I was thinking until we were well out of cow earshot. She was not as amused as I was.

We did our best to drive, without getting lost, from Cashal to the Ballyseede Castle. We arrived safely at 6:30 and arranged dinner for 7:00. It's not often you get to eat in a castle, so I didn't mind paying $100 for a two course meal. Kim had a delightful cod, and I chose the lamb, being in Ireland and all. Our meal came with potatoes cooked four different ways-all delicious. The balance of the evening was spent in the library, taking after dinner tea and enjoying the fire. The Irish wolfhound, Mr. Higgins, mixes gently with the guests. Luckily, he's not overweight, otherwise he could easily knock Kim over, since he comes up to her hips.

Tomorrow we are off to the Dingle peninsula to search for the elusive berry tree.Read more