Ariel Ain't Got Nothin' on the Buddha

The day's activities were launched from a nearby bus stop. Although I can’t read Korean, they do use the same Arabic numbers, so all I had to do was get myself onto bus #10 or #11. I was successful and was riding through town by 11am. The bus had a few stops in town, then it went outside the city limits toward Bulguksa Temple: my first destination of the day. When we came to the Bulguksa stop, I could see no temple buildings, just lots of tour buses. "Quick, quick. You want!" the bus driver said pointing to a bus parked across the street.

“Bulguksa?” I asked.

I could not understand her reply, but she again insisted, “Make quick,” and pointed to bus #12. I saw a few other passengers running for bus #12, so I quickly alighted and ran across the street. I stepped into the bus and asked, “Bulguksa?”

The driver gave me a strange look, then said something I didn’t understand. I must have returned the strange look, and he repeated himself. This time I caught the word “grotto” and suddenly realized this was the shuttle up to Seokguram Grotto. Acting as if this is where I wanted to be the whole time, I gave a nod and deposited my won in the change machine. I sat down and took stock of the situation. The original plan had been to visit Bulguksa Temple, then take the 2.2km hike to the Seokguram Grotto. I couldn’t see how touring the grotto first would really make a difference, so I decided to just be happy that I made quick, quick. The drive up to the grotto was at a pretty good incline, at times, and very twisty. I was quickly grateful that I didn’t go with the original plan because that 2.2km would have been a whole lotta hiking uphill.

The Seokguram Grotto and the temple were built about the same time, well over a 1000 years ago (about the mid-700’s). From the parking lot where the shuttle let us off, there was a wide dirt path that meandered through a heavily wooded mountainside. There was an endless variety of trees, and when there was a break in the greenery, the view was magnificent. It was not clear enough today, but I’ve read that the Buddha in the grotto can see all the way to the East Sea. As you approach the grotto area, there is a spring water tap that flows endlessly into a large stone tub. Red plastic dippers hang from two racks, inviting the thirsty hiker to relax. I watched a few people get their drinks first before I marched over and had a taste. From what I gathered, one picks the dipper of choice, rinses it with the spring water, throws the rinse water on the ground, then fills their vessel with a modest amount of water. I was so hot, I took two cupfuls. The heat and humidity are killing me. Anyway, turning left, I climbed the stairs to the grotto. It is a simple building with architecture familiar to other Buddhist temples I have seen. But it’s only the front half of the building. It butts up against a large green mound that protrudes from the mountainside. I entered on the left side and was astounded by the contents. Set back, under a solid granite dome, was a large Buddha carved out of granite. He was surrounded by stone reliefs of other guardians. It was a beautiful shrine with a warm atmosphere. It made me think of my visit to Disneyland this summer, when my nieces got to have lunch at Ariel’s Grotto. Although I’m a big fan of mermaids, I was feeling a little more impressed with this fete of ancient engineering. Not to mention the spiritual overtones.

I left the Grotto area and decided to take the trail DOWN to Bulguksa. As soon as I started hiking I realized how grateful I was for bus lady. I would have been toast if I’d walked up the trail. It was hard enough work just going down! However, it was worth it. The Bulguksa Temple complex was gorgeous. The first scenery you see, as you walk in, is a small pond, with koi, spanned by a stone bridge with weeping willow stretching to the water’s surface. It was a postcard moment. In view behind the bridge is a building with eaves stretching outward and slowly curling toward the sky. The grounds are expansive, and I strolled from one temple building to the next. I finally had to take about 10 minutes and just sit quietly in one of the shrines. The Buddhist nun was humming quietly, and the aroma of incense made me want to stay for the afternoon. Unfortunately, it is a large place, and I felt like I shouldn’t stay too long lest I miss seeing other wonderful things. One of my favorite buildings had a plethora of stacked stones in the back. As I was taking pictures, more stacks piled on the fence caught my eye. Around the end of the building, the whole side was filled with these stacks. But wait, they were stacked on the gate, too. I lifted my camera for a picture, when I saw a gentleman pointing up in a tree. There, in the lowest crotch, were little stacked stones. It was very cool.Read more