The Challenge of Getting Around

I left Gyeongju this morning, taking the express bus across the southern part of the peninsula to Gwangju. It was about a four hour ride to the Gwangju bus station, where I then caught an intercity bus for Mokpo. Mokpo is not a huge tourist destination, which is what appealed to me. It is a large port town that is the gateway to the two places I want to see: Dadohae Haesang Marine National Park and Wolchulsan National Park. The maritime park has over 1700 islands strewn along the coast, which I plan to tour tomorrow. Wolchulsan, on the other hand, is a mountain park somewhat inland that has a spectacular six hour hike that culminates in a steel suspension bridge joining two peaks.

So, let me take a few moments to tell you what it's like getting around Mokpo. I got off the bus and asked three taxi drivers to take me to a hotel. None of them understood me, nor did I understand them. I looked at my guidebook again, and by my estimation, it appeared the hotel was a few blocks from the train station. Practicing the word for train station (gicha yeok) under my breath, I got back in line for the taxi service. I opened the cab door and gave it a whirl, "Gicha yeok?" I said with desperation. A shake of the head and a smile seemed to indicate he understood. I was dropped off at the train station, then followed the map in my book. I wandered up and down the little blocks, noting that “Motel” or “Hotel” was usually in English, then the rest of the name was in Korean. Regardless, I knew the street name but was having no luck finding it. Slowly, and I mean slowly, it dawned on me that the street signs were all the same. I had read that addresses are rarely used in Korea. What I was reading on the sign was the district name (gu) and the neighborhood name (dong). Now here’s the kicker, even though the buildings have a number on them, it is meaningless. Historically, a structure gets a number when it is built; therefore, house #27 can be next to #109, which is next to #76. Ah, what a challenge! Finally, a man and his son came out of their shop and asked if I need help. I’m sure it was the jaw-dropped, wide-eyed look that gave it away. Indeed I needed help. I pointed to the information in the guidebook, which also had the phone number. As he dialed, he asked where I was from, and I said the US. “Are you a Christian?”

Hmm. This is not a question I had foreseen nor had I prepared a safe touristy answer. Thanks to Pastor Dumb Ass, in Florida, there is a warning on the State Department’s website about potential hostilities arising over the whole Koran burning episode. Not that I thought this guy was going to whack me right there, but it’s really amazing how many thoughts can zing through your mind in just a moment. First I thought I should get clarification. Did he mean was I the kinda Christian that is way right wing, using the Bible to outlaw anything that I don’t like and believe my religion should be written into the law of the country, whilst relegating all other religions to second class status? Or did he mean did I believe in the tenets of Christianity espoused by Jesus Christ, who was a loving and noble man? (I realize that Jesus did not espouse Christianity, since he was a Jew, but you know what I mean.)

“No. Buddhist,” came out of my mouth. Not that I am, but it seemed like the safest answer at the time. Korea has a long tradition of Buddhism and about a quarter of the population still identifies themselves as such. Plus, who’s going to bother a peace-loving vegetarian?

“Oh,” was his disinterested response. He finished dialing the hotel, talked briefly, then smiled, “You go two blocks and turn right.” I thanked him profusely and wandered down the road.

Of course you’re probably wondering, why didn’t she just stay at one of the hotels she passed on her walk from the train station toward the ferry terminal? Let me quote the guidebook, “There are countless love motels between the train station and the ferry terminal.” Now, I gotta whole lotta love in me but I’m thinking this is not the place to share it!

Eventually, I found my hotel and got checked in. The Kimho Beach Hotel is not near a beach, but it does overlook the pier. I walked down to the port, where there are several fish markets, and got a good dose of unadulterated Korean culture. I got back to my room as the sun was setting just behind Mt. Yudalsan, where I will be doing some hiking and sightseeing tomorrow.Read more