Suva City

What a day! After sleeping in just a bit, we were well-rested and ready for our city tour. Mary picked us up, and we met Peter at the Lazy Bean, a coffee shop in the sports section of the department store. Peter is a local poet, who doubles as a tour guide. His interest in history and love of Fiji make him the perfect person to introduce you to Suva. He infused his descriptions with astute observations and a wicked sense of humor.

We started the tour at the bus terminal, which had its own interesting history. The station was a hub of activity and a short walk to the market. One of my favorite things whenever I travel is to visit the local market. These locations tell so much about an area. I’m always curious to see what fruit and vegetables are sold; what raw goods are available; who is doing the selling. The Suva market didn’t disappoint. There were vegetables and fruits that Mary helped us identify, as well as a variety of unknown spices. I learned that about 38% of the Fijian population is Indian; they were brought in by the British to be used as slaves in the sugar cane industry. These descendants now have a very visible presence on the island. They also suffer a great deal of discrimination from some Fijians, despite having been here for generations. Racism seems to permeate all cultures to some degree and, sadly, Fiji is no exception.

The upper level of the market included numerous vendors selling kava root. Used as a ceremonial drink, its intoxicating effects can be powerful. I recently read about an Australian deputy prime minister who “went cross-eyed” and ended up in the hospital, after drinking a bowl of kava. The aroma of kava was potent and wafted throughout the second floor. In some stalls, the kava was bundled. Mary told us that the bundles are offered, when attending certain social situations.

Peter walked us all over downtown, providing commentary on architecture and Fijian history. We concluded the tour at the parliamentary building, which also houses the judiciary. On the front lawn are two statues. The first is Ratu Seru Cacobau (1815-1883). Although he quelled warring tribes to unite the Fijian kingdom, he also ceded Fiji to the British. The second statue honors Ratu Sir Lala Sakuna (1888-1958) who appears to have been an amazing statesman. He was educated in Britain, and later served the nation of Fiji. One of his greatest accomplishments was to establish the Native Land Trust, ensuring the vast majority of land would be owned by Fijians. He was also central to the preservation of native culture, by recording the history of communities, through songs, dances, stories, etc. Even today, this cultural history provides endless research opportunities.

We wrapped up our day in the city with lunch and a big coffee. It was followed by significant resting before meeting Mary’s family for dinner.Read more