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Beach hopping from Fiji to Australia. Keep palm and carry on! Read more
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  • Abuse your passportDon’t worry. Beach happy.
    Day 1

    Lift off

    November 1, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌬 45 °F

    We got out of Denver without a hitch. As we approached LAX, the sun was setting on the Pacifc, glowing deep orange with a dark red tint stretching across the horizon. I noted to Kim that the next time we see the sun, it will be rising on the beaches of Fiji. It was a pleasant thought that carried me through baggage and out to the curb. It was here that, we entered into the seventh realm hell. We waited for about 15 minutes for a shuttle bus to take us to the international terminal. When it finally arrived, it read “Out of Service” above the front window. Eventually, the next bus finally picked us up but couldn’t take us all the way to the terminal due to construction. We hopped off early and walked tour bags to the entrance. As the automatic doors slid open, we were met with an explosion of noise and gobs of humanity. We waded through crowds of travelers before finding the snake-like queue for Fiji Airways. Time ticked painfully slowly, as we waited to get checked in; but we didn’t realize this was lightening fast compared to TSA. By the time we finally arrived at our gate, it had taken three and a half hours to transit from our domestic arrival to our departure gate. I was comforted by Past Dana’s decision to schedule a long lay-over. So glad my past self made a good decision to set up my future self for success!Read more

  • Abuse your passportDon’t worry. Beach happy.
    Day 3

    Beach time

    November 3, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 45 °F

    We approached the Nadi airport just as the sun was making an appearance in the East. The few high clouds were glowing a faint pink, and the vague outline of islands were coming into view. The airport was a breeze and, after a very large cup of coffee, we grabbed our rental car. Driving on the opposite side of the road isn’t my favorite, and it took a few hours to stop turning on the wipers, when I meant to hit the blinkers. We drove down the coast directly to the beach. Natadola beach stretches along a the coast for quite a ways. Beautiful blue waters meet the white sands with small waves. We ran into the water and looked back to the beach. There were no other tourists and the beach was empty as far as you could see. I thought it was strange that there was no one on the beach and said as much to Kim. Slowly, it dawned on us that it was just 9am and most tourists were probably still having breakfast. Since we’d already been awake for about seven hours, we were thinking it was a bit later. We floated for quite a while, then Kim opted for a massage, while I laid out like a reptile, soaking up the warm South Pacific sun.

    Our goal was to get to Suva by 3pm, but the traffic defeated my calculations but not by much. A bit late, we met Mary and her friend, Martha, at the Holiday Inn at Suva. The hotel has a beautiful outdoor cafe that overlooks the water. We enjoyed enthusiastic greetings over cold drinks. Martha has been kind enough to offer her extra bedroom to us, so we’ll be staying with her in Suva for a couple of days. Kim and I were able to finish dinner and spend some time socializing before we ran out of gas.    Read more

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    Day 4

    Suva City

    November 4, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    What a day! After sleeping in just a bit, we were well-rested and ready for our city tour. Mary picked us up, and we met Peter at the Lazy Bean, a coffee shop in the sports section of the department store. Peter is a local poet, who doubles as a tour guide. His interest in history and love of Fiji make him the perfect person to introduce you to Suva. He infused his descriptions with astute observations and a wicked sense of humor.

    We started the tour at the bus terminal, which had its own interesting history. The station was a hub of activity and a short walk to the market. One of my favorite things whenever I travel is to visit the local market. These locations tell so much about an area. I’m always curious to see what fruit and vegetables are sold; what raw goods are available; who is doing the selling. The Suva market didn’t disappoint. There were vegetables and fruits that Mary helped us identify, as well as a variety of unknown spices. I learned that about 38% of the Fijian population is Indian; they were brought in by the British to be used as slaves in the sugar cane industry. These descendants now have a very visible presence on the island. They also suffer a great deal of discrimination from some Fijians, despite having been here for generations. Racism seems to permeate all cultures to some degree and, sadly, Fiji is no exception.

    The upper level of the market included numerous vendors selling kava root. Used as a ceremonial drink, its intoxicating effects can be powerful. I recently read about an Australian deputy prime minister who “went cross-eyed” and ended up in the hospital, after drinking a bowl of kava. The aroma of kava was potent and wafted throughout the second floor. In some stalls, the kava was bundled. Mary told us that the bundles are offered, when attending certain social situations.

    Peter walked us all over downtown, providing commentary on architecture and Fijian history. We concluded the tour at the parliamentary building, which also houses the judiciary. On the front lawn are two statues. The first is Ratu Seru Cacobau (1815-1883). Although he quelled warring tribes to unite the Fijian kingdom, he also ceded Fiji to the British. The second statue honors Ratu Sir Lala Sakuna (1888-1958) who appears to have been an amazing statesman. He was educated in Britain, and later served the nation of Fiji. One of his greatest accomplishments was to establish the Native Land Trust, ensuring the vast majority of land would be owned by Fijians. He was also central to the preservation of native culture, by recording the history of communities, through songs, dances, stories, etc. Even today, this cultural history provides endless research opportunities.

    We wrapped up our day in the city with lunch and a big coffee. It was followed by significant resting before meeting Mary’s family for dinner.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportDon’t worry. Beach happy.
    Day 5

    Friends

    November 5, 2023 in Fiji ⋅ 🌙 75 °F

    We had a very social day today. Mary, with Martha in tow, took us to meet her friend, Phyllis, who lives on “the hill.” Phyllis operated a dive shop in Fiji from the mid-1990’s to the mid-2000’s and became part of the local village community. The village granted her land, on a hill, where she built a beautiful home. When we arrived, Mary refused to go up the driveway, which is steep and rugged. I was relieved when she said that Phyllis would drive down and pick us up. Although not long, the driveway has a steep grade up the hill. Once we reached the end of the driveway and piled out of the car. The interior of her home is a dark wood, with decorative weaving, where the ceiling timbers meet. There was little evidence of her American nationality, as the small home was simply decorated with a local influence. I turned to to the right, where her property opens to an incredible ocean view. Her wrap-around deck provided continuous opportunities to take in gorgeous views of the sea below. Had I been asked, I would have suggested we sit on her porch for the whole day and watch the ocean roll in and out. But, there were other plans.

    We got changed and headed down the hill to a cove, hidden from anyone’s view. We donned our snorkel gear, but Kim came across an azure-colored starfish before she even stuck her face in the water. A new experience for her, she was delighted in her immediate success. Mary, on the other hand, was not as interested in snorkeling. She’d previously had a bad experience in the ocean and was content to wade in the shallow water. Somehow, Phyllis managed to coax her into using a mask and taking a look. We were all delighted, when Mary shrieked with excitement. She’d come across some colorful fish, “I never knew...” It was fun to see her light up at the possibilities that swam below the surface.

    After our snorkeling adventure, Phyllis offered a huge lunch spread. We ate our meal on the deck, overlooking the ocean. I’m pretty sure I could do this everyday. From what I understand, it doesn’t get old.

    On the way back to Suva, I had a minor medical emergency. Luckily for me, Mary’s daughter is a physician, and everything was taken care of without too much disturbance to the end of our day. Following the unexpected stop at the pharmacy, Kim and I thanked Martha for her hospitality and drove to Pacific Harbor, where we had rented a bure on the beach.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportDon’t worry. Beach happy.
    Day 6

    Holy Sh....ark!

    November 6, 2023 in Fiji ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Wow, wow, wow.

    Before I left work last week, Carla asked me what I was most looking forward to. The answer was easy: shark dive. Despite a bit of trepidation (which does rhyme with predation), I was really looking forward to diving with sharks. This is no cage dive, this is up close and personal with a lot of teeth. I woke up early, and Kim drove me over to the dive shop. She opted not to go on this dive for some reason. I was excited to see three other divers; more divers, more crowding. The capacity for this dive is 10, so we were small group.

    Before we got on the boat, the shop owner gave us a 30 minute lecture on shark conservation and what to expect. The location was chosen, so that you have your back to a large coral reef; you don’t want those animals sneaking up on you. They also had half a dozen staff, who would be strategically placed to intercept any problems. I later found out that the staff were armed with metal poles shaped like a shepard's’ crook. When a shark got too close, it was given a nudge on the nose to encourage a wider path.

    We were told that eight species of shark frequent the area. Apparently, there is a channel just off Beqa (pronounced Benga) island, where the deeper ocean funnels up nutrients to the shallower waters. The area is protected as a marine reserve, due to the variety of aquatic life and the protection of the sharks. Here and worldwide, there has been a significant loss of sharks in the past few decades. The reduction in numbers has led to a decline in coral reefs, sea grass, and commercial fishing. If sharks go, so does any control over the next layer of predators, who reproduce much more quickly. Basically, without sharks, groupers would eat everything. Or at least that’s what I thought I heard him say.

    It was a 30 minute boat ride out to the site. We were instructed to follow very specific directions, when entering the water and descending to the site. I was the first one in the water and immediately spotted a black tip reef shark about 40 feet below. I made way down the line and then followed the staff to the end of the area; the other three divers came in close on my left. We were told to kneel shoulder-to-shoulder, so sharks wouldn’t be tempted to swim between us. When we arrived, there were so many sharks that it was hard to pay attention. I was startled by a bull shark that swam just beyond my reach. I wasn’t scared of the shark, I just wasn’t expecting it to be there.

    Once we were settled on the ocean floor, I spent 30 minutes watching the sharks glide to and fro. They are amazing creatures. It seemed like they could stop on a dime and change directions. Some of the bull sharks were large. Females are bigger than the males, and there were some big ladies. Occasionally, a nurse shark would swim past, close to the bottom and underneath the action. About 20 feet away, an enormous grouper held it’s ground. The thing look like the size of VW Bug. (OK, maybe not quite that big, but huge for a fish.) I later ask the dive master to estimate it’s weight, and he guessed around 800 pounds. Big.

    Our ascent back to the surface was as controlled as our descent. In order, and in tight formation, we went up in a line. We were on the boat for about 60 minutes, before returning for another look. On the second dive, one of he bull sharks came close enough to my head that I instinctively ducked. The staff next to me gave her a tap on the nose, and she changed directions before swimming over me. The sharks were as active and abundant as they’d been on the first dive. There were times that the pectoral fins came within five feet of my mask. It was intense to watch some of them come directly at me, then turn abruptly. At some point, I thought I should be fearful, but I just felt so grateful to witness the grace of these animals. I’m not sure what temporarily broke in my brain, but I felt safe and couldn’t image them wanting to harm me.

    During the two dives, we saw four species of shark. One of he other divers asked what other fish were in the vicinity, and I had no answer. I’d been so enthralled by the sharks that I could not recall what other fish were also on the dive-except for the huge grouper. I told her that I was excited to check out the video on my GoPro, which probably shows all kinds of animals sharing the space. My focus was simply on sharks.

    Kim picked me up from the dive shop, and we made a quick food stop before returning to our bure. Our little accommodations open to a beach and today, it was empty, except for a few stray dogs. One of whom was an exceptional swimmer.    Read more

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    Day 7

    Money Nerd

    November 7, 2023 in Fiji ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Mary has been an incredibly gracious host. We met at a coffee shop this morning and did quite a few things around Suva. Two of my favorite “off-the-beaten-path” activities included food and money. Although we had talked about fish and chips on Saturday, we hadn’t made it to the restaurant, yet. Today was the day. Mary gave us directions that sounded like this: Go up here and take a left, you will pass the National Stadium, and it’ll be right there. I thanked her, hopped in the car, and asked Kim to pull it up on Google maps. Within minutes, Google let us know that we had arrived, but I disagreed. We were at a gas station, next to a two story business complex. I pulled into the parking lot and there it was: Dan’s Fish and Chips. It shared the building with the gas station, of course. We placed our order, and it was filled quickly. It reminded me of Fionnula’s chippy in Derry Girls, and I had a giggle. We settled on a table outside and enjoyed an exquisite plate of fish and chips. I need to remember to leave a 5 on Yelp.

    Our second coup of the day was the National Reserve Bank. I realize this sounds nerdy, but they had a tasteful and informative, historical display of Fijian money in their lobby. It was really interesting to see the aging of the Queen through the decades. Although Fiji declared its independence in 1970, the Queen stayed on their bills until 2012. I also found it interesting that the country uses their money to commentate important events. They will issue special coinage or bills in honor of certain things. In case you are not familiar, Fiji uses the decimal model for money; similar to us, they have $1, $5, $10, $20, etc bills and like coins. My favorite commemorative bills were the $7 bills issued in 2017 and 2020 to honor their national rugby teams’ gold medals in the Olympics. Their 7’s rugby team won gold in 2016 in Brasil and in 2020 in Tokyo. Because the sport was only introduced to the Olympics in 2016, they are the only team that has won the gold. In rugby, Fiji is small but mighty. They have more rugby pros per capita than any other country. It’s actually not surprising, as every playground, park, and school have rugby posts, inviting kids to hone their skills. So I bought a $7 bill.    Read more

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    Day 8

    A day on the water

    November 8, 2023 in Fiji ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    We were up early today to get to the dive shop on time. Kim and I had originally intended on going diving on our own, but Martha discovered that the dive shop runs a snorkel tour simultaneously with the dives. That meant we got to spend one more day with our friends before leaving the island.

    The dive shop sits near the end of a lazy river that eventually makes its way into the ocean. It’s a great location for loading and unloading the boat, since you don’t have to deal with any undulation from the waves. It also provides a scenic view, as you motor down the river to the sea. The 30 minute ride took us to Yanutha, a small island off the south coast of Viti Levu. The beach stretches across the bay, wrapping its arms around the turquoise blue water. The waves gently lapped at the sand; it was picturesque. The boat moored close to the beach, so Martha, Mary, and their tour guide could hop off. They were immediately greeted on shore by a tiny kitten. Despite being 20 feet from shore, we could hear the meows from the boat. Too bad it couldn’t swim.

    We left the snorkelers and dropped down on the Golden Hat. the site is a large coral head with soft corals growing all around, near, and on it. Although there were fish, the main attraction was the soft coral. Fiji is known as the soft coral capital of the world. I haven’t been everywhere, but I’m guessing they may be right. Even at 60 feet, the colors were stunning. We kicked into a swim-through that was fairly large. On the ceiling, the corals hung, swaying with the current. They were think underneath; a variety of colors mixed together: yellow, blue, purple, lavender. We also passed some anemones with their resident clown fish circling around, as well as a variety of other coral types.

    Between our dives, we returned to the island to check on the snorkelers and drop off some fresh pineapple. Mary was excited to have seen several fish. She also seemed to have taken a liking to the kitten. As she stood in the water to talk to us, the poor creature meowed a sad cry, calling her back to the shore. Although you couldn’t tell from the beach, apparently the island is sparsely populated on the east side. It did make me feel better to know the cat wasn’t completely abandoned on the island.

    Our second dive was named Nepture’s Nest. The site was certainly fit for a god. Again, the soft coral was amazing. It was abundant and in good condition. Large sea fans, some yellow and some purple, protruded from the coral head, adding a little extra extravagance. Some of them were quite large and completely intact. I was also excited to see a nudibranch. These little creatures are the Easter eggs of the sea. They’re hidden all over but hard to find, so when you happen upon one, it’s a special treat.

    Following our dives, we stopped back by the island to pick up the snorkel crew. The surface was a bit rough, so it was a bumpy ride back to the mouth of the river. Despite having started out at 8am, it was almost 1:30 by the time we left the dive shop, and we were hungry. We rounded out the afternoon over pizza and sparkling kumquat juice.    Read more

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    Day 9

    Fiji Water

    November 9, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    We discovered where Fiji bottled water comes from today: downpours. We felt so grateful that we had almost an entire week of perfect weather that a little rain on our departure date was no big deal. As we packed up, I grabbed my phone and checked email. There, I read that our 2:40pm departure time was delayed to 5:10pm. Luckily, we’re in Fiji, where everything is always OK. I called the car rental, and they were happy to extend our rental a couple of hours at no cost. Although my preference would have been to be on time, the delay now allowed us to drive leisurely to Nadi, stopping anytime we felt compelled to do so.

    We left our little bure around 9am and hit the road. The first stop was the auto shop for air in the tires. I hit a Goliath pothole yesterday, and the front tire was looking low. Once we were road worthy, we drove to the cultural arts center to pick up souvenirs. The large complex has a good size pond out front that is covered with water lilies. Half of them were vibrant red and the other half were an unadulterated white. A bridge carried us from the road to the cultural center, and we stopped frequently to look at the lilies. They were so perfect that they could have been mistaken for replicas.

    Our drive to Nadi was beautiful. A large portion of the drive is along the coast, where the rode winds along the lush, green hillside that overlooks the crystal blue ocean water below. The dark clouds were thick over the mountains to the north, and I finally understood how large rivers found the water to drain into the ocean. The highest elevation on Viti Levu is over 4,ooo feet, so the rain travels a long way to pass under the frequent bridges that we crossed. In the lower elevations, we were fortunate not to run into rain, despite the cloudy sky.

    We eventually arrived at the Nadi airport and returned the car. We debated if we should check-in immediately or have a cup of coffee first. Prudence won out, so we walked to the airline counter to get checked-in. The airport staff examined our passports and tapped at the computer. “Do you have you ETA’s for Australia?” I indicated that I didn’t know what an ETA was. “It’s your visa to get into the country.” Now, a lot of things were going through my head, and I found myself searching my mind for someone or something to blame, but I realized I had ignored an email that the airline sent me a week ago that said something about travel documents. (This is highly unusual for me but in my defense, the pandemic set my traveling skills back. I’m out of practice.) Panic gripped my stomach, and I’m sure my face was flush because I was breaking a sweat. My emotional state must have been obvious, as the customer service guy reassured me. I just needed to get on the app, put my info in, and come back to the desk when I received the confirmation email. He even helped me get on the airport WiFi and find the correct app.

    We lugged our bags to the wall, where I plugged in my phone. My battery was running low, and the power cord was giving me fits. I was nervous that I wouldn’t have enough juice to download the app and get the info entered, but it worked. I answered the 50 questions and poked in the necessary information, such as confirming twice that I didn’t currently have tuberculosis. Once I progressed through all the screens, I hit the submit button: “You will receive a response in the next 12 hours.” What??? Are you kidding? I might need to wait 12 hours for a response? I only had two hours before check-in closed. I’m sure my blood pressure rose a bit, but I kept telling myself that the customer service guy didn’t seem too worried. For the moment, I just focused on holding my phone cord at the right angle to ensure electricity continued to flow to the battery. I also realized that being stuck in Fiji wouldn’t be the worst thing in the world. Several tense minutes passed but then the golden ticket appeared in my email box. I opened the email from the Australian government and realized it was simply a confirmation receipt that they received my money and application. Thankfully, the ETA (Electronic Travel Authority) came in a few minutes later. Once Kim’s document followed, we were on our way to Australia.    Read more

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    Day 10

    The Northern Beaches

    November 10, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    Pat and Ron met us at the cafe across from the hotel for breakfast. Across the street is Colloroy Beach, so our morning meal was set to the sound of waves. Ron grew up in this area and was an amazing tour guide. We started with a walk up the beach and around the Long Reef golf course. We stopped to watch some paragliders practice their craft and made several other stops just to take in the view. Returning to the car park, we drove up the coast and into the hills, past Newport and into Palm Beach. The towns have the same vibe as SoCal, with surf shops and cafes dotting the Main Street; enormous homes built into the hillside, off a winding two lane road. The view was incredible, regardless of where the car was pointing.

    After lunch and a long walk on the beach, Kim needed a nap, and I threw some ice on my swelling ankle. We later rounded out the night with dinner at the Colloroy Beach Club. The Club is literally on the beach, with floor to ceiling windows for a magnificent view of the crashing waves. Dinner was good but the location was incredible.    Read more

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    Day 12

    Iconic Sydney

    November 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 72 °F

    We did the Sydney thing today and loved it! We started with a ferry ride from Manly into Sydney Harbor. As we approached Circular Quay, the opera house and the harbor bridge came into view. There is a surreal feeling every time I see iconic images with my own eyes. I think about how grateful I am to personally witness the scenes that most people will only see in books and on websites. The day was sunny, and the opera house sails beamed in the light. The building is simply stunning.

    Our first order of business was dropping our bags at the luggage storage. Free of baggage, we were liberated to move around more easily. We popped into a Thai restaurant for lunch before walking to the market on George Street. Luckily, I was able to muster up some restraint, and left the market without too many souvenirs.

    At 3:25, we reported to our assigned area for our 3:30 opera house tour. Our tour guide, Emily, had certainly found her calling in life. Her enthusiasm and extensive knowledge was impressive. She led us through the building, providing historical context, while noting contemporary issues. The original architect of the building had drawn a breathtaking structure; however, it was an engineering nightmare. Despite enormous challenges and difficulties, the building, which was started in 1959, didn’t open until 1973. Just a few weeks ago, the opera house celebrated its 50th year of operation. We got to get up close and touch the sails. Actually, the white roof is not white. It is checkered with off-white and tannish tiles, each with a rough finish. Apparently, a pure whit roof would have been blinding to look at in the sun (remember, there’s a hole in the ozone above Australia), and the rough finish averts the collection of dirt, so that rains wash away the debris that collects on the outside. About a million tiles cover the sails. The tile were initially sourced from Italy, and somewhere in Australia is a warehouse with a surplus fo the original tiles, so that they have a stash that they can use if a tile needs replaced. The interior of the structure is as impressive as the exterior. The ceilings are concrete, but nowhere are there pillars holding the roof up. Instead, the long concrete horizontal beams holding the roof in place are engineered to support the weight without conventional beams. I’m no engineer, but I can appreciate ingenuity.

    Following our tour, we hustled over to The Squire Landing to meet up with Angelique and her husband, Anthony. The google led us to the end of the road at the end of the pier opposite the opera house and just below the harbor bridge. Oddly, I couldn’t see the brewery, but we hadn’t gone far enough. Around the corner, and directly across from the opera house, the brewery rose three stories at the very end of the jetty. We found a table and waited for our friends, while taking in spectacular views of the Sydney Harbor. Once they arrived, we talked until the sun went down, the nightlife picked up, and the lights reflected on the water. I think the opera house might be even more beautiful by night.    Read more

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