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- Day 1
- Wednesday, November 1, 2023 at 10:53 PM
- 🌬 45 °F
- Altitude: 1,381 ft
United StatesCheney Reservoir37°45’4” N 97°49’19” W
Lift off

We got out of Denver without a hitch. As we approached LAX, the sun was setting on the Pacifc, glowing deep orange with a dark red tint stretching across the horizon. I noted to Kim that the next time we see the sun, it will be rising on the beaches of Fiji. It was a pleasant thought that carried me through baggage and out to the curb. It was here that, we entered into the seventh realm hell. We waited for about 15 minutes for a shuttle bus to take us to the international terminal. When it finally arrived, it read “Out of Service” above the front window. Eventually, the next bus finally picked us up but couldn’t take us all the way to the terminal due to construction. We hopped off early and walked tour bags to the entrance. As the automatic doors slid open, we were met with an explosion of noise and gobs of humanity. We waded through crowds of travelers before finding the snake-like queue for Fiji Airways. Time ticked painfully slowly, as we waited to get checked in; but we didn’t realize this was lightening fast compared to TSA. By the time we finally arrived at our gate, it had taken three and a half hours to transit from our domestic arrival to our departure gate. I was comforted by Past Dana’s decision to schedule a long lay-over. So glad my past self made a good decision to set up my future self for success!Read more
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- Day 3
- Friday, November 3, 2023 at 5:06 AM
- 🌙 45 °F
- Altitude: 1,381 ft
United StatesCheney Reservoir37°45’4” N 97°49’19” W
Beach time

We approached the Nadi airport just as the sun was making an appearance in the East. The few high clouds were glowing a faint pink, and the vague outline of islands were coming into view. The airport was a breeze and, after a very large cup of coffee, we grabbed our rental car. Driving on the opposite side of the road isn’t my favorite, and it took a few hours to stop turning on the wipers, when I meant to hit the blinkers. We drove down the coast directly to the beach. Natadola beach stretches along a the coast for quite a ways. Beautiful blue waters meet the white sands with small waves. We ran into the water and looked back to the beach. There were no other tourists and the beach was empty as far as you could see. I thought it was strange that there was no one on the beach and said as much to Kim. Slowly, it dawned on us that it was just 9am and most tourists were probably still having breakfast. Since we’d already been awake for about seven hours, we were thinking it was a bit later. We floated for quite a while, then Kim opted for a massage, while I laid out like a reptile, soaking up the warm South Pacific sun.
Our goal was to get to Suva by 3pm, but the traffic defeated my calculations but not by much. A bit late, we met Mary and her friend, Martha, at the Holiday Inn at Suva. The hotel has a beautiful outdoor cafe that overlooks the water. We enjoyed enthusiastic greetings over cold drinks. Martha has been kind enough to offer her extra bedroom to us, so we’ll be staying with her in Suva for a couple of days. Kim and I were able to finish dinner and spend some time socializing before we ran out of gas.Read more
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- Day 4
- Saturday, November 4, 2023 at 5:30 PM
- ☀️ 52 °F
- Altitude: 709 ft
United StatesLoop41°53’15” N 87°37’54” W
Suva City

What a day! After sleeping in just a bit, we were well-rested and ready for our city tour. Mary picked us up, and we met Peter at the Lazy Bean, a coffee shop in the sports section of the department store. Peter is a local poet, who doubles as a tour guide. His interest in history and love of Fiji make him the perfect person to introduce you to Suva. He infused his descriptions with astute observations and a wicked sense of humor.
We started the tour at the bus terminal, which had its own interesting history. The station was a hub of activity and a short walk to the market. One of my favorite things whenever I travel is to visit the local market. These locations tell so much about an area. I’m always curious to see what fruit and vegetables are sold; what raw goods are available; who is doing the selling. The Suva market didn’t disappoint. There were vegetables and fruits that Mary helped us identify, as well as a variety of unknown spices. I learned that about 38% of the Fijian population is Indian; they were brought in by the British to be used as slaves in the sugar cane industry. These descendants now have a very visible presence on the island. They also suffer a great deal of discrimination from some Fijians, despite having been here for generations. Racism seems to permeate all cultures to some degree and, sadly, Fiji is no exception.
The upper level of the market included numerous vendors selling kava root. Used as a ceremonial drink, its intoxicating effects can be powerful. I recently read about an Australian deputy prime minister who “went cross-eyed” and ended up in the hospital, after drinking a bowl of kava. The aroma of kava was potent and wafted throughout the second floor. In some stalls, the kava was bundled. Mary told us that the bundles are offered, when attending certain social situations.
Peter walked us all over downtown, providing commentary on architecture and Fijian history. We concluded the tour at the parliamentary building, which also houses the judiciary. On the front lawn are two statues. The first is Ratu Seru Cacobau (1815-1883). Although he quelled warring tribes to unite the Fijian kingdom, he also ceded Fiji to the British. The second statue honors Ratu Sir Lala Sakuna (1888-1958) who appears to have been an amazing statesman. He was educated in Britain, and later served the nation of Fiji. One of his greatest accomplishments was to establish the Native Land Trust, ensuring the vast majority of land would be owned by Fijians. He was also central to the preservation of native culture, by recording the history of communities, through songs, dances, stories, etc. Even today, this cultural history provides endless research opportunities.
We wrapped up our day in the city with lunch and a big coffee. It was followed by significant resting before meeting Mary’s family for dinner.Read more

Traveler"Met for coffee in the sports section of a department store" HA! Love it! I'm currently working on my final project, being certification as a water sommelier, enjoying a Fiji water, while reading your Fiji posts - Too cool! Keep your eye out for natural spring waters in your travels!

Abuse your passportI did not know there were water sommeliers. Really? Fiji water tastes even better in Fiji.
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- Day 5
- Sunday, November 5, 2023 at 7:30 PM
- 🌙 75 °F
- Altitude: 2,356 ft
FijiViti Levu18°0’0” S 178°0’0” E
Friends

We had a very social day today. Mary, with Martha in tow, took us to meet her friend, Phyllis, who lives on “the hill.” Phyllis operated a dive shop in Fiji from the mid-1990’s to the mid-2000’s and became part of the local village community. The village granted her land, on a hill, where she built a beautiful home. When we arrived, Mary refused to go up the driveway, which is steep and rugged. I was relieved when she said that Phyllis would drive down and pick us up. Although not long, the driveway has a steep grade up the hill. Once we reached the end of the driveway and piled out of the car. The interior of her home is a dark wood, with decorative weaving, where the ceiling timbers meet. There was little evidence of her American nationality, as the small home was simply decorated with a local influence. I turned to to the right, where her property opens to an incredible ocean view. Her wrap-around deck provided continuous opportunities to take in gorgeous views of the sea below. Had I been asked, I would have suggested we sit on her porch for the whole day and watch the ocean roll in and out. But, there were other plans.
We got changed and headed down the hill to a cove, hidden from anyone’s view. We donned our snorkel gear, but Kim came across an azure-colored starfish before she even stuck her face in the water. A new experience for her, she was delighted in her immediate success. Mary, on the other hand, was not as interested in snorkeling. She’d previously had a bad experience in the ocean and was content to wade in the shallow water. Somehow, Phyllis managed to coax her into using a mask and taking a look. We were all delighted, when Mary shrieked with excitement. She’d come across some colorful fish, “I never knew...” It was fun to see her light up at the possibilities that swam below the surface.
After our snorkeling adventure, Phyllis offered a huge lunch spread. We ate our meal on the deck, overlooking the ocean. I’m pretty sure I could do this everyday. From what I understand, it doesn’t get old.
On the way back to Suva, I had a minor medical emergency. Luckily for me, Mary’s daughter is a physician, and everything was taken care of without too much disturbance to the end of our day. Following the unexpected stop at the pharmacy, Kim and I thanked Martha for her hospitality and drove to Pacific Harbor, where we had rented a bure on the beach.Read more
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- Day 6
- Monday, November 6, 2023 at 9:18 PM
- ☁️ 72 °F
- Altitude: 2,356 ft
FijiViti Levu18°0’0” S 178°0’0” E
Holy Sh....ark!

Wow, wow, wow.
Before I left work last week, Carla asked me what I was most looking forward to. The answer was easy: shark dive. Despite a bit of trepidation (which does rhyme with predation), I was really looking forward to diving with sharks. This is no cage dive, this is up close and personal with a lot of teeth. I woke up early, and Kim drove me over to the dive shop. She opted not to go on this dive for some reason. I was excited to see three other divers; more divers, more crowding. The capacity for this dive is 10, so we were small group.
Before we got on the boat, the shop owner gave us a 30 minute lecture on shark conservation and what to expect. The location was chosen, so that you have your back to a large coral reef; you don’t want those animals sneaking up on you. They also had half a dozen staff, who would be strategically placed to intercept any problems. I later found out that the staff were armed with metal poles shaped like a shepard's’ crook. When a shark got too close, it was given a nudge on the nose to encourage a wider path.
We were told that eight species of shark frequent the area. Apparently, there is a channel just off Beqa (pronounced Benga) island, where the deeper ocean funnels up nutrients to the shallower waters. The area is protected as a marine reserve, due to the variety of aquatic life and the protection of the sharks. Here and worldwide, there has been a significant loss of sharks in the past few decades. The reduction in numbers has led to a decline in coral reefs, sea grass, and commercial fishing. If sharks go, so does any control over the next layer of predators, who reproduce much more quickly. Basically, without sharks, groupers would eat everything. Or at least that’s what I thought I heard him say.
It was a 30 minute boat ride out to the site. We were instructed to follow very specific directions, when entering the water and descending to the site. I was the first one in the water and immediately spotted a black tip reef shark about 40 feet below. I made way down the line and then followed the staff to the end of the area; the other three divers came in close on my left. We were told to kneel shoulder-to-shoulder, so sharks wouldn’t be tempted to swim between us. When we arrived, there were so many sharks that it was hard to pay attention. I was startled by a bull shark that swam just beyond my reach. I wasn’t scared of the shark, I just wasn’t expecting it to be there.
Once we were settled on the ocean floor, I spent 30 minutes watching the sharks glide to and fro. They are amazing creatures. It seemed like they could stop on a dime and change directions. Some of the bull sharks were large. Females are bigger than the males, and there were some big ladies. Occasionally, a nurse shark would swim past, close to the bottom and underneath the action. About 20 feet away, an enormous grouper held it’s ground. The thing look like the size of VW Bug. (OK, maybe not quite that big, but huge for a fish.) I later ask the dive master to estimate it’s weight, and he guessed around 800 pounds. Big.
Our ascent back to the surface was as controlled as our descent. In order, and in tight formation, we went up in a line. We were on the boat for about 60 minutes, before returning for another look. On the second dive, one of he bull sharks came close enough to my head that I instinctively ducked. The staff next to me gave her a tap on the nose, and she changed directions before swimming over me. The sharks were as active and abundant as they’d been on the first dive. There were times that the pectoral fins came within five feet of my mask. It was intense to watch some of them come directly at me, then turn abruptly. At some point, I thought I should be fearful, but I just felt so grateful to witness the grace of these animals. I’m not sure what temporarily broke in my brain, but I felt safe and couldn’t image them wanting to harm me.
During the two dives, we saw four species of shark. One of he other divers asked what other fish were in the vicinity, and I had no answer. I’d been so enthralled by the sharks that I could not recall what other fish were also on the dive-except for the huge grouper. I told her that I was excited to check out the video on my GoPro, which probably shows all kinds of animals sharing the space. My focus was simply on sharks.
Kim picked me up from the dive shop, and we made a quick food stop before returning to our bure. Our little accommodations open to a beach and today, it was empty, except for a few stray dogs. One of whom was an exceptional swimmer.Read more
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- Day 7
- Tuesday, November 7, 2023 at 8:25 PM
- ☁️ 72 °F
- Altitude: 2,356 ft
FijiViti Levu18°0’0” S 178°0’0” E
Money Nerd

Mary has been an incredibly gracious host. We met at a coffee shop this morning and did quite a few things around Suva. Two of my favorite “off-the-beaten-path” activities included food and money. Although we had talked about fish and chips on Saturday, we hadn’t made it to the restaurant, yet. Today was the day. Mary gave us directions that sounded like this: Go up here and take a left, you will pass the National Stadium, and it’ll be right there. I thanked her, hopped in the car, and asked Kim to pull it up on Google maps. Within minutes, Google let us know that we had arrived, but I disagreed. We were at a gas station, next to a two story business complex. I pulled into the parking lot and there it was: Dan’s Fish and Chips. It shared the building with the gas station, of course. We placed our order, and it was filled quickly. It reminded me of Fionnula’s chippy in Derry Girls, and I had a giggle. We settled on a table outside and enjoyed an exquisite plate of fish and chips. I need to remember to leave a 5 on Yelp.
Our second coup of the day was the National Reserve Bank. I realize this sounds nerdy, but they had a tasteful and informative, historical display of Fijian money in their lobby. It was really interesting to see the aging of the Queen through the decades. Although Fiji declared its independence in 1970, the Queen stayed on their bills until 2012. I also found it interesting that the country uses their money to commentate important events. They will issue special coinage or bills in honor of certain things. In case you are not familiar, Fiji uses the decimal model for money; similar to us, they have $1, $5, $10, $20, etc bills and like coins. My favorite commemorative bills were the $7 bills issued in 2017 and 2020 to honor their national rugby teams’ gold medals in the Olympics. Their 7’s rugby team won gold in 2016 in Brasil and in 2020 in Tokyo. Because the sport was only introduced to the Olympics in 2016, they are the only team that has won the gold. In rugby, Fiji is small but mighty. They have more rugby pros per capita than any other country. It’s actually not surprising, as every playground, park, and school have rugby posts, inviting kids to hone their skills. So I bought a $7 bill.Read more
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- Day 8
- Wednesday, November 8, 2023 at 8:57 PM
- ☁️ 72 °F
- Altitude: 2,356 ft
FijiViti Levu18°0’0” S 178°0’0” E
A day on the water

We were up early today to get to the dive shop on time. Kim and I had originally intended on going diving on our own, but Martha discovered that the dive shop runs a snorkel tour simultaneously with the dives. That meant we got to spend one more day with our friends before leaving the island.
The dive shop sits near the end of a lazy river that eventually makes its way into the ocean. It’s a great location for loading and unloading the boat, since you don’t have to deal with any undulation from the waves. It also provides a scenic view, as you motor down the river to the sea. The 30 minute ride took us to Yanutha, a small island off the south coast of Viti Levu. The beach stretches across the bay, wrapping its arms around the turquoise blue water. The waves gently lapped at the sand; it was picturesque. The boat moored close to the beach, so Martha, Mary, and their tour guide could hop off. They were immediately greeted on shore by a tiny kitten. Despite being 20 feet from shore, we could hear the meows from the boat. Too bad it couldn’t swim.
We left the snorkelers and dropped down on the Golden Hat. the site is a large coral head with soft corals growing all around, near, and on it. Although there were fish, the main attraction was the soft coral. Fiji is known as the soft coral capital of the world. I haven’t been everywhere, but I’m guessing they may be right. Even at 60 feet, the colors were stunning. We kicked into a swim-through that was fairly large. On the ceiling, the corals hung, swaying with the current. They were think underneath; a variety of colors mixed together: yellow, blue, purple, lavender. We also passed some anemones with their resident clown fish circling around, as well as a variety of other coral types.
Between our dives, we returned to the island to check on the snorkelers and drop off some fresh pineapple. Mary was excited to have seen several fish. She also seemed to have taken a liking to the kitten. As she stood in the water to talk to us, the poor creature meowed a sad cry, calling her back to the shore. Although you couldn’t tell from the beach, apparently the island is sparsely populated on the east side. It did make me feel better to know the cat wasn’t completely abandoned on the island.
Our second dive was named Nepture’s Nest. The site was certainly fit for a god. Again, the soft coral was amazing. It was abundant and in good condition. Large sea fans, some yellow and some purple, protruded from the coral head, adding a little extra extravagance. Some of them were quite large and completely intact. I was also excited to see a nudibranch. These little creatures are the Easter eggs of the sea. They’re hidden all over but hard to find, so when you happen upon one, it’s a special treat.
Following our dives, we stopped back by the island to pick up the snorkel crew. The surface was a bit rough, so it was a bumpy ride back to the mouth of the river. Despite having started out at 8am, it was almost 1:30 by the time we left the dive shop, and we were hungry. We rounded out the afternoon over pizza and sparkling kumquat juice.Read more
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- Day 9
- Thursday, November 9, 2023 at 9:29 PM
- ☁️ 66 °F
- Altitude: 20 ft
AustraliaCockle Bay33°52’17” S 151°12’2” E
Fiji Water

We discovered where Fiji bottled water comes from today: downpours. We felt so grateful that we had almost an entire week of perfect weather that a little rain on our departure date was no big deal. As we packed up, I grabbed my phone and checked email. There, I read that our 2:40pm departure time was delayed to 5:10pm. Luckily, we’re in Fiji, where everything is always OK. I called the car rental, and they were happy to extend our rental a couple of hours at no cost. Although my preference would have been to be on time, the delay now allowed us to drive leisurely to Nadi, stopping anytime we felt compelled to do so.
We left our little bure around 9am and hit the road. The first stop was the auto shop for air in the tires. I hit a Goliath pothole yesterday, and the front tire was looking low. Once we were road worthy, we drove to the cultural arts center to pick up souvenirs. The large complex has a good size pond out front that is covered with water lilies. Half of them were vibrant red and the other half were an unadulterated white. A bridge carried us from the road to the cultural center, and we stopped frequently to look at the lilies. They were so perfect that they could have been mistaken for replicas.
Our drive to Nadi was beautiful. A large portion of the drive is along the coast, where the rode winds along the lush, green hillside that overlooks the crystal blue ocean water below. The dark clouds were thick over the mountains to the north, and I finally understood how large rivers found the water to drain into the ocean. The highest elevation on Viti Levu is over 4,ooo feet, so the rain travels a long way to pass under the frequent bridges that we crossed. In the lower elevations, we were fortunate not to run into rain, despite the cloudy sky.
We eventually arrived at the Nadi airport and returned the car. We debated if we should check-in immediately or have a cup of coffee first. Prudence won out, so we walked to the airline counter to get checked-in. The airport staff examined our passports and tapped at the computer. “Do you have you ETA’s for Australia?” I indicated that I didn’t know what an ETA was. “It’s your visa to get into the country.” Now, a lot of things were going through my head, and I found myself searching my mind for someone or something to blame, but I realized I had ignored an email that the airline sent me a week ago that said something about travel documents. (This is highly unusual for me but in my defense, the pandemic set my traveling skills back. I’m out of practice.) Panic gripped my stomach, and I’m sure my face was flush because I was breaking a sweat. My emotional state must have been obvious, as the customer service guy reassured me. I just needed to get on the app, put my info in, and come back to the desk when I received the confirmation email. He even helped me get on the airport WiFi and find the correct app.
We lugged our bags to the wall, where I plugged in my phone. My battery was running low, and the power cord was giving me fits. I was nervous that I wouldn’t have enough juice to download the app and get the info entered, but it worked. I answered the 50 questions and poked in the necessary information, such as confirming twice that I didn’t currently have tuberculosis. Once I progressed through all the screens, I hit the submit button: “You will receive a response in the next 12 hours.” What??? Are you kidding? I might need to wait 12 hours for a response? I only had two hours before check-in closed. I’m sure my blood pressure rose a bit, but I kept telling myself that the customer service guy didn’t seem too worried. For the moment, I just focused on holding my phone cord at the right angle to ensure electricity continued to flow to the battery. I also realized that being stuck in Fiji wouldn’t be the worst thing in the world. Several tense minutes passed but then the golden ticket appeared in my email box. I opened the email from the Australian government and realized it was simply a confirmation receipt that they received my money and application. Thankfully, the ETA (Electronic Travel Authority) came in a few minutes later. Once Kim’s document followed, we were on our way to Australia.Read more
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- Day 10
- Friday, November 10, 2023 at 10:14 PM
- 🌙 68 °F
- Altitude: 20 ft
AustraliaCockle Bay33°52’17” S 151°12’2” E
The Northern Beaches

Pat and Ron met us at the cafe across from the hotel for breakfast. Across the street is Colloroy Beach, so our morning meal was set to the sound of waves. Ron grew up in this area and was an amazing tour guide. We started with a walk up the beach and around the Long Reef golf course. We stopped to watch some paragliders practice their craft and made several other stops just to take in the view. Returning to the car park, we drove up the coast and into the hills, past Newport and into Palm Beach. The towns have the same vibe as SoCal, with surf shops and cafes dotting the Main Street; enormous homes built into the hillside, off a winding two lane road. The view was incredible, regardless of where the car was pointing.
After lunch and a long walk on the beach, Kim needed a nap, and I threw some ice on my swelling ankle. We later rounded out the night with dinner at the Colloroy Beach Club. The Club is literally on the beach, with floor to ceiling windows for a magnificent view of the crashing waves. Dinner was good but the location was incredible.Read more
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- Day 12
- Sunday, November 12, 2023 at 8:27 PM
- 🌙 72 °F
- Altitude: 43 ft
AustraliaFletcher32°52’31” S 151°38’43” E
Iconic Sydney

We did the Sydney thing today and loved it! We started with a ferry ride from Manly into Sydney Harbor. As we approached Circular Quay, the opera house and the harbor bridge came into view. There is a surreal feeling every time I see iconic images with my own eyes. I think about how grateful I am to personally witness the scenes that most people will only see in books and on websites. The day was sunny, and the opera house sails beamed in the light. The building is simply stunning.
Our first order of business was dropping our bags at the luggage storage. Free of baggage, we were liberated to move around more easily. We popped into a Thai restaurant for lunch before walking to the market on George Street. Luckily, I was able to muster up some restraint, and left the market without too many souvenirs.
At 3:25, we reported to our assigned area for our 3:30 opera house tour. Our tour guide, Emily, had certainly found her calling in life. Her enthusiasm and extensive knowledge was impressive. She led us through the building, providing historical context, while noting contemporary issues. The original architect of the building had drawn a breathtaking structure; however, it was an engineering nightmare. Despite enormous challenges and difficulties, the building, which was started in 1959, didn’t open until 1973. Just a few weeks ago, the opera house celebrated its 50th year of operation. We got to get up close and touch the sails. Actually, the white roof is not white. It is checkered with off-white and tannish tiles, each with a rough finish. Apparently, a pure whit roof would have been blinding to look at in the sun (remember, there’s a hole in the ozone above Australia), and the rough finish averts the collection of dirt, so that rains wash away the debris that collects on the outside. About a million tiles cover the sails. The tile were initially sourced from Italy, and somewhere in Australia is a warehouse with a surplus fo the original tiles, so that they have a stash that they can use if a tile needs replaced. The interior of the structure is as impressive as the exterior. The ceilings are concrete, but nowhere are there pillars holding the roof up. Instead, the long concrete horizontal beams holding the roof in place are engineered to support the weight without conventional beams. I’m no engineer, but I can appreciate ingenuity.
Following our tour, we hustled over to The Squire Landing to meet up with Angelique and her husband, Anthony. The google led us to the end of the road at the end of the pier opposite the opera house and just below the harbor bridge. Oddly, I couldn’t see the brewery, but we hadn’t gone far enough. Around the corner, and directly across from the opera house, the brewery rose three stories at the very end of the jetty. We found a table and waited for our friends, while taking in spectacular views of the Sydney Harbor. Once they arrived, we talked until the sun went down, the nightlife picked up, and the lights reflected on the water. I think the opera house might be even more beautiful by night.Read more
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- Day 13
- Monday, November 13, 2023 at 7:21 PM
- ☀️ 66 °F
- Altitude: 43 ft
AustraliaFletcher32°52’31” S 151°38’43” E
Chinese Gardens and High Tea

Last night, when Angelique was describing the poor transportation planning of Australia, she guaranteed us that we would miss a turn, with no easy U-turn to remedy the situation. After picking up our rental car this morning, it took us at least 10 extra minutes to get back to the hotel because of one wrong turn. I’ll be happy when we get out of the traffic cluster that is Sydney.
After running about 25 minutes late, we met Angelique and her son, Mark, at the Chinese Garden of Friendship. The garden is actually larger than it sounds. The three acres were dedicated to celebrate the connection between New South Wales and its sister state, Guangdong, in China. It was recommended to walk the garden in a clockwise direction, so we stepped through the bonsai garden and onto the path lining one of the three water features. Immediately, Mark spied an Australian water dragon. The endemic lizard can grow up to a meter long, but this one was only about 10-12 inches. Similar in appearance to an iguana, but not as beefy, the lizard stared us down, daring us to pass. His red neck stood out against his brownish skin, and I kept waiting to see his lizard tongue. But he just stayed in his pose; rigid and not moving. He apparently didn’t notice that we were no longer admiring him but looking at the koi swimming up and down the pond. There were orange, orange and black, mostly black, and a few lighter color ones, but all were large. These were not small pond koi. They were full size behemoths.
As we came around the corner, the path opened to the whole garden. Straight ahead, and sitting on a hill, was a large pagoda. Next to it, a waterfall dropped into the main pond below. In front of us, the pond sprouted two, large rock formations. We all agreed that one of them was definitely a turtle. The other one was less defined.
We slowly strolled through the garden. Although set in the middle of a bustling urban area, the garden is an oasis of peace and quiet. We found lots fo other water dragons along the way and learned a little bit about the Chinese immigration to Australia. The garden is in Sydeny’s Chinatown neighborhood.
Following the garden, we walked toward the Forgotten Songs public art exhibit in the Central Business District. It looked much closer on the map, so we ended up walking more than intended. We finally got to Martin Place. Like the Chinese Garden, I had found the Forgotten Song exhibit on Atlas Obscura. Despite my affinity for the website, I often have a hard time finding the obscure site, highlighted in the Atlas. I suppose that’s why it’s “obscura.” Well, this was no exception. I was standing at Martin Pace with three followers, who were tired of walking and staring at me for directions. Google was telling me to walk to the left, but there was a line of buildings a block long in both directions. Instinctively, I turned around and walked until I saw an obscured stairway that led down. Having no idea where it might go. I motioned everyone to follow me down. We got to the landing, and there was a small lane straight ahead but no public art. Disappointed, I stepped out of the stairway and turned right. Wow! There was a short, pedestrian lane, maybe 100 feet long, and the installation hung between the buildings that lined the street. Above us, about 50 different bird cages were strung between the buildings. All shapes and sizes filled the air. The exhibit was installed to commemorate the birds that once thrived in this area but have been pushed out or extinguished due to modern development. We stood quietly and could also hear the songs of the birds, which are tastefully played through hidden speakers. Because some of the birds represented were nocturnal, I read that different bird sounds can be heard at different times of the day. The art was originally installed in 2009, as part of a temporary exhibit; however, it was so well received that it has become a permanent part of Angel Place.
We took a shorter route back to the car and drove to Gunners Barracks for high tea. Anthony met us there, and we were seated at a table overlooking Sydney Harbor. The barracks sit atop a high cliff, where the busy, seafaring traffic of Sydney Harbor plays out down below. We passed the whole afternoon with tea, little sandwiches, and treats. We talked until the staff pressured us to leave, in order to make way for the next groups. We had a good laugh at having been kicked out of the tea house, but since we weren’t done talking, we stepped outside and carried on, while looking at the amazing view. The sky was blue, the water was gleaming, and the sun shone down warmly. It was really a wonderful time.
Anthony took our previous passengers, and Kim and I were on our own to get to our next waypoint. We decided to stay in Olympic Park for the evening, so we hopped on the internet and found a hotel. Pushing the address into Google maps, we let the google direct us to the hotel. Tomorrow, we’ll do some exploring of the park.Read more
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- Day 14
- Tuesday, November 14, 2023 at 4:30 PM
- ☁️ 73 °F
- Altitude: 20 ft
AustraliaCockle Bay33°52’17” S 151°12’2” E
Olympic Park

We spent the night at a hotel in Olympic Park. My parents were in Australia in the mid-90’s, and my mom bought me a tee shirt advertising the Sydney Olympics. As we ate breakfast, I wondered where that tee shirt went. I wore it all the time but think it eventually fell victim to a bad painting job.
The park still houses many of the venues from the 2000 Summer games. It was quiet today, and I imagined what it might have been like during that summer. I’m sure heaps of people swarmed the area to get to their event or enjoy one of the numerous activities. A portion of this area is actually reclaimed from the Homebush Bay. Because it is so close to the water, there are several hectares of mangroves, around which they built an elevated walkway. We put the location into google and started walking to Badu Mangroves. Once again, we were headed out to an Atlas Obscura recommendation and once agin, the walking directions were not clear. We backtracked a couple times but eventually arrived at the mangroves. We immediately came across a black duck with eight ducklings paddling behind. The elevated boardwalk then snaked through the swamp. Below, we saw some fish, and above were several different birds. The birds were vocal, some with sweeter sounds than others. The magpies are enormous here and make the sound of a pained child. I would never have guessed the they were magpies, but Pat had pointed them out earlier in the week.
We chose a more direct path back to the hotel, which included a coffee stop along the way. It provided the right amount of caffeinated energy to get bags backed and lugged down to the car. From Olympic Park, we drove to K-mart to pick up a couple items. I think all the K-marts that closed down in Colorado must have been relocated here. I quick google search revealed four of them within close proximity to our hotel. We didn’t see any blue light specials, but we did get a screaming deal on a watchband.
We finished our afternoon with lunch on the other side of Homebush Bay. Angelique met us for a meal at a restaurant sitting along the Bay. The outdoor dining provided beautiful views fo the Bay and the backside of Olympic Park, including the boundary where the mangroves met the open water. We lingered long on the patio before returning to the road. Our next stop was an Air BnB in Emu Plains, where we’ll be visiting our friend, Lauren, for a few days.Read more
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- Day 15
- Wednesday, November 15, 2023 at 4:53 PM
- ☀️ 72 °F
- Altitude: 20 ft
AustraliaCockle Bay33°52’17” S 151°12’2” E
Arts and Science

We drove to Lauren’s house this morning, and she drove us to Katoomba, in the Blue Mountains. The drive was beautiful and much more relaxing than my driving myself. The slowly winding road gained elevation, as we passed small towns and open spaces.
Arriving in Katoomba, we went to the Lost Bear Gallery. Lauren’s friend was showing some recent art work. We stepped in the gallery, and Jody’s charcoal sketched leapt from the walls. Despite the dark colors, the images were light; several renditions of kangaroos and a serious looking wombat. Mixed in, she had cockatoos, which fly freely all over the place here, as well as landscapes from a recent trip to France. My favorite pieces were in a series fo koalas. They were painted on material that I couldn’t quite identify. Jody Graham happened to be there, so Lauren introduced us. She explained the process by which she made the paper that the koalas were rendered, noting that she had stitched them in places to symbolize the precarious nature of their existence. She was absolutely lovely to speak with and frank about her process. I immediately took a few pictures and sent them to my niece, who’s currently in art school. We wandered around the gallery for quite a while, admiring the works on the walls. (https://jodygraham.com.au/contact/)
As has become our habit, we had lunch on the patio of the Conservation Hut. Since the 1960’s, Blue Mountain Conservation Society members have been meeting here. It has since been rebuilt and serves still as a waypoint but also has a delicious cafe. We ate our lunch overlooking the Blue Mountain range, which extended to the horizon. Years ago, I had read or been told that the blue haze comes from the oil in the eucalyptus trees; however, Lauren corrected me. She indicated that the blue hue floating over the mountains is actually a phenomenon resulting from the color of the eucalyptus leaves. I searched the google and found a variety of answers explaining the science behind the color. Basically, my explanation feels like it makes the most sense: they are the way they are because that’s how they are. Feel free to look into it and get back with me.
We drove out to Lincoln’s Rock, which is a sandstone perch above the Jamison Valley, in the Blue Mountains. The walk was short from the car park, but the views were incredible. It felt as though we were surrounded by bush, stretching endlessly across the undulating mountains. Cliffs dropped precipitously to the valley below, and eucalyptus (gum trees) created a solid canopy across the vista. The area is named for Australian mountaineer Lincoln Hall, who lived in the area for quite a while. It was only named Lincoln’s Rock in 2013. Apparently there’s a book about him and his trek to summit Mt Everest, after which he almost died. Although he survived Everest, he tragically died from asbestos exposure, and the rock was named in his honor. Before that, the overlook had creative names such as Flat Rock, Wedding Rock, and Honeymoon Rock.
We rounded out the night, meeting some of Lauren’s friends over dessert. Not a bad way to end a day.Read more
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- Day 16
- Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 5:23 PM
- ☁️ 72 °F
- Altitude: 20 ft
AustraliaCockle Bay33°52’17” S 151°12’2” E
Hiking the Grand Canyon

Yes, Australia has its very own Grand Canyon. Not quite as grand as our canyon, but incredibly beautiful. Lauren picked us up around 7:30am and we drove about 90 minutes to the trailhead, where we encountered one other car. One. As in 1. If this hike was in Colorado, you’d need a reservation for it.
The trail started with a solid number of stairs going down, down, down. Each step triggered a terrible thought, “You’re going to have to walk back up these.” Despite having had surgery in late May, the recovery for my ankle has been slow, and the hardest challenge in daily life has been stairs. I figured the worst that could happen would be a really slow ascent on the way back. Or a search and rescue helicopter.
We’d been waiting to see black cockatoos, and Lauren pointed one out. I didn’t even know there were such birds, but they are really pretty. Kim tried to get a few pictures, but he was elusive, so she gave up. As we continued to lose altitude, we entered into the dampness. Ferns and mosses were abundant, and water seemed to drip from everything. We caught up to a small waterfall, which I imagine is a large waterfall, when there is rain here, but it’s been dry. I walked gingerly down the wet and slippery stone stairs, trying to stay upright while taking in the views. After traipsing through a small cave with our torches, we rounded a corner to find a wispy waterfall. I named them Schweitzer Falls, since we could walk behind them. Actually, the trail took us around the backside of the falls, and continued to follow the river downward. We came to an information placard that showed the surrounding cliffs. We were actually halfway between the top of the canyon wall and the floor. From this location, rock climbers will gear up and drop to the bottom. The whole area looked like Jurassic Park, with luscious, large green ferns, and deep, menacing looking holes below. We walked just a bit further and decided to turn around, so as not to push my ankle too hard.
As I suspected, the walk back up the canyon was taxing but doable. There was so much to see that stopping regularly was built into the ascent. After passing the falls again, we ran into a a couple who were looking for birds. He had a camera with a serious lens on it, and Lauren struck up a conversation that went something like, “How you going? Looking for the cockies? We saw black cockies on the way down.” “Yeah, we heard them and thought they might be cockies. We’re from Victoria and our cockies sound a little bit different. Our black cockies are smaller than yours.” I will spare you the other 50 ways they used the word cocky, but it was weird to hear that word in the wild.
The trail became more populated on the way up, and we passed several other hikers. As we got to the top, we ran into a couple with their abseil gear on their backs. They were headed down to the very bottom of the canyon; wish I could have seen that GoPro video.
We popped out of the canyon and drove immediately to the little coffee stop we saw on the way in. Kim was delighted to see gluten-free ANZAC cookies. I told her she had to have one, since she was in Australia. ANZAC stands for Australia and New Zealand Army Corps. The story I’ve heard is that the ingredients don’t tend to spoil, so they were easily shipped to the military personnel. I was also told that they are the first things kids learn to cook, since the recipe is fairly easy. I don’t know if any of that is true but they sure are yummy! The coffee place was a tiny trailer parked in a woman’s driveway. Somehow during our conversation with her, she invited us to take a look around her backyard. The well-groomed lawn was adjacent to a healthy vegetable garden and a moderately sized chicken coop, from where she collects butt nuggets. The picture says it all.
We motored down the road to the Three Sisters overlook. The Three Sisters are another rock formation in the area. According to indigenous legend, they represent three sisters who lived in the Jamison Valley as part of the Katoomba tribe. Apparently, the overlook is a popular tourist attraction, as heaps of commercial buses filled the street and car park. We walked around the overlook but decided against the two hour, round trip trail. I was a little too tired for that. Instead, we decided to grab lunch. Lauren navigated through Katoomba to the Glass House. The cafe is in a converted glass greenhouse, surrounded by pine and gum trees. Colorful flowers bloomed on the property, making for a pleasant dining experience.
It felt like a full day, but we arrived back to our Air BnB by 3pm. We ran a couple of loads of laundry and packed up some of our items. We’ll be headed to Long Point for a very relaxing weekend.Read more
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- Day 17
- Friday, November 17, 2023 at 7:43 PM
- ☁️ 70 °F
- Altitude: 1,434 ft
AustraliaKingaroy26°32’43” S 151°50’47” E
Jump for joey

We packed up our things and said goodbye to Penrith. We’re starting our slow drive down south, starting with a weekend retreat in Long Point. But before we get too far, we decided to spend the day at Featherdale Wildlife Park.
I have a vague memory of the park from my visit in 2006. The collection is everything Australian: koalas, kangaroos, wombats, wallabys, Tasmanian devils, etc. We decided to buy the photo with the koala, since we wanted to get close to one. We wandered the park for a couple of hours. I think we could have stayed at the koala section for the entire time. We intently watched a mother with her joey clinging to her back. She didn’t seem bothered by the cling-on and appeared to easily move around with the extra weight. We also saw a little joey in a kangaroo pouch. His hairless tailed poked out of the pocket and made his mother look more like an excited male kangaroo. The joey eventually flipped around and poked his tiny head into the sunlight. We could see little ears for a bit, before he rolled over agin and dove headlong into the pouch; once more, not quite getting his tail to follow. Did you know that a female kangaroo can be dealing with three young at once. It’s possible for the kangaroo to be pregnant, have one in the pouch, and have a third out of the pouch but still nursing. I have a new respect for moms kangaroos.
As we entered another enclosure, we saw an albino wallaby. I suspect they’re probably very rare, and this one certainly looked unusual compared to the others. We moved just up the path and with a cup of kangaroo feed, we held our hands flat and let them eat out of our palms. The little ones were gentle, doing more of a vacuum move, while a large gray kangaroo slobbered all over my hand. Luckily, hand washing stations are thoughtfully placed around the park just for situations like this. During our wandering, we discovered that echidnas are quite fast, Australia has some wickedly weird birds, and wombats sleep a lot.
Our photo session with the koala was a high point. She was very friendly and allowed us to pat her bum. She was as soft and fluffy as any koala looks, and those ears! So cute.
After lunch, we headed to Long Point to meet up with Lauren, Pat, Angelique and others for a relaxing weekend.Read more
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- Day 19
- Sunday, November 19, 2023 at 8:09 PM
- ☁️ 68 °F
- Altitude: 1,434 ft
AustraliaKingaroy26°32’43” S 151°50’47” E
Nowra later

We finished up our retreat with lunch, said our goodbyes, and hopped in the car. Blindly following the directions on Google maps, we headed south along the coast. About an hour into the drive, we came to the sea cliff bridge. Built in the early 2000’s, the bridge moves the road out over the ocean. This then creates a space for rock slides to crash down, without doing any damage to the road. (CDOT should take note for Glenwood Canyon.) It is a surreal experience to be out over the water, as you take a couple of large curves along the coastline. After winding our way around the bridge, we parked and went back to the observation area to take a look at the bridge. I was impressed with the engineering but more taken by the cloudless, blue sky and the whitecaps on the ocean.
Our next stop was the Kiama blowhole. The attraction is found at the very tip of coast that jets out from Kiama, a small beach town. The wind blew hard, but the day was still warm. Atop the cliff sits a tall lighthouse, then the path drops down the rocks into a viewing area. We waited for the spouting water but nothing happened, so we walked along the cliffs. The ocean waves crashed against the coast, shooting white foam high into the air. We were mesmerized by the sights and sounds but eventually walked back toward the blowhole. Just as we arrived, the roar of the underground channel culminated in a shot of water. We stuck around for a while, waiting and watching, but none were as high as the first one. You know, the one when we didn’t have our cameras trained on the hole.
The drive has reminded me of Highway 1 in California. The road is windy and hilly and offers amazing views. There’s also some really nice properties along the way. We finished our drive in Nowra. We stopped in at Woolys (aka Woolworths) to grab some food to take to the hotel. We’re staying at a 1950’s style motor lodge along the coast. It’s super cute and has an actual key with the little keychain thingy with the room number on it. Bill Bryson wrote that Australia is about 50 years behind America, and this is just another example supporting his theory.Read more
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- Day 20
- Monday, November 20, 2023 at 9:59 PM
- ☁️ 72 °F
- Altitude: 20 ft
AustraliaCockle Bay33°52’17” S 151°12’2” E
Princes Highway

We started our day with a hearty breakfast in Nowra, and a cup of coffee to go. In less than an hour, we were parking the car in Jervis Bay and walking down the trail to Hyams Beach. I read that the sand is so white that you can’t look at it on sunny days without sunglasses. Someone this weekend said that the sand is so fine that it squeaks. Well, I was skeptical on both issues and was excited to see for myself.
It was a bit cloudy today, but the sand is definitely a vibrant white. As we stepped off the trail, the sand was more of an off-white but quickly turned to a magnificent, pure white. I’ve never seen sand that color. Of course, pictures don’t quite capture it, but it was unusual. I looked to the left and then to the right, and we were the only ones on the beach. And it is a long beach. As we walked to the water, I noticed an unusual sound and realized that the sand actually does squeak. I’m not sure what science is happening on that beach, but I told Kim I thought it squeaked because it was so clean.
The water is way too cold for swimming, but I dipped my feet before laying out my towel for a little sunbathing. Not long after settling in, Kim noticed a pod of dolphins swimming by. We walked to the water and watched about 8-10 of them frolicking up the coast. They spent about 10 minutes moving to the south, then turned back north before heading away from us. Slowly, their fins fell out of sight, and we returned to our towels. A later venture into beach combing turned up little of interest, so we packed up and continued to drive down the coast. Among our favorite signs today included koala crossing, wombat crossing, and kangaroo crossing.
The drive down the coast continues to be beautiful. In addition to quaint seaside towns, we also passed some farm and pasture land today. We arrived in Batemans Bay in the late afternoon. As if on queue, Diann asked what we did today. When I said we had stopped at Hyams Beach, she said, “Oh, the squeaky beach.” Diann and Zoe live on a cliff overlooking the bay. We had no idea that they were actually on the ocean, so the incredible view was a pleasant surprise. We spent most of the evening on the veranda, with the waves quietly breaking below. Kim and I continually mentioned how beautiful the place was and were very grateful for the opportunity to stay. They even made us a turkey dinner, since we’ll be missing the holiday this week. Can’t wait to see what they have in store for us tomorrow.Read more
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- Day 21
- Tuesday, November 21, 2023 at 10:28 PM
- ☁️ 68 °F
- Altitude: 20 ft
AustraliaCockle Bay33°52’17” S 151°12’2” E
Cap’n Kangaroo

I woke up to the sunrise on the water. From my bed, I could see a huge orange ball of sun drifting up over the Tasman Sea and then I fell back asleep. It was a day for R&R, so I wasn’t in a hurry to get up. We had a leisurely breakfast and spent the morning on the veranda, simply enjoying the view.
For lunch, Zoe and Diann took us to the Oyster Shed. It’s an old shack, off a dirt road, where the Clyde River meets the ocean waters in Batemans Bay. Zoe noted that the business was a bit dilapidated before they painted it blue and raised their prices. As we waited for our lunch, we noticed that the floor holding the refrigerators was collapsing, and one of the refrigerators was being propped up by a car jack. Why are these kind of dives the ones with the best food? We had oysters and prawns, as well as fresh baked bread, while we sat on the picnic table just off the dock. They literally get their oysters within walking distance, and you could taste the freshness.
We followed up lunch with a long walk on the beach. We started south and then doubled back, and heading to the most northern point. The water here is very clear and transitioned from different hues of blue, getting darker farther away from the beach. There were a few other people on the beach, but it was basically empty. It looked like there might be rain, but we finished our walk without getting wet. Di checked her watch, when we got back to the car, and we had clicked off almost three miles. It felt much shorter, since we spent most of the time chatting and watching the surf.
Kim was clear that her goal for our trip to Australia was to see a kangaroo in the wild. We’ve been here almost two weeks and no kangaroos. Zoe found this unacceptable, so she drove us over toward the golf course. Apparently, kangaroos love golf courses. Within minutes, Zoe made Kim’s dreams come true. A large male, and two smaller kangaroos stared at us from the bush. One hopped away, but the large one stayed with one other. We watched them watch us for a while, then we drove up the hill to find another one, and another one, and another one. Kim was ecstatic about the find and was so very grateful for the opportunity to go kangaroo viewing. I suspect we will be seeing more in the next day or two, as we spend more time in the bush on our way to Melbin (Australian for Melbourne).Read more
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- Day 22
- Wednesday, November 22, 2023 at 8:29 AM
- ⛅ 64 °F
- Altitude: 499 ft
AustraliaAlbury36°4’19” S 146°54’59” E
Koalas and Kangaroos

Today, and the coming days, are mostly driving with an occasional stop. Today, we followed Zoe to Moruya. Now, Moruya is a great example of the constant problem we’re encountering. I say this town as Mo-ru-ya. I learned to read phonetically, so when Zoe and Di said we were going to Maria, I assumed Ma-ri-a. I looked on the map, and there was no Maria to be found nor was there anything that looked like Maria. I found a way to ask again and clearly heard Maria. I feel like there are only so many times that you can ask people to repeat themselves before you look like an idiot, so I decided I would be patient and just read the road signs. Imagine my surprise when I saw “Moruya 26km.” The fun of traveling is that we have these surprises everyday (eg: Kim and Zoe had some confusion with tiebill - table).
Zoe and Di passed us off to Margaret, who hosted lunch for us. She provided several suggestions for sightseeing along the coast but warned us about the mozzies (how is this the word for mosquitos?). She confirmed that Gipsy Point was beautiful, but insect repellent was crucial.
On our way to Gipsy Point, we stopped in Merimbula. There is a wooden boardwalk on a portion of the lake and it was a great refresher, after driving a couple hours. The water was crystal clear and the wooded path moved in and out of the bush and out over the water. It was a beautiful walk.
Lucky for us, the mozzies were minimal, and we had an amazing stay at Gipsy Point. The lodge we booked was in the bush and adjacent to a national park. As we approached the drive, a koala was spotted high in one of the trees. We got registered as quickly as possible, so we could go watch the koala. We spent half an hour with our necks cranked upward, watching a little ball of fuzz stuff his mouth full of eucalyptus leaves. Occasionally, he would stretch to reach more leaves, but he had found the perfect branch; there was a second branch supporting his back, sort of like a koala lazy-boy. As we stood there, we realized there was another koala, a bit higher, is a nearby tree, as well.
We decided to give our necks a break and got settled in our room until dusk. Not surprisingly, when we ventured out, the area had turned into a veritable zoo. We couldn’t see a lot (it was getting dark), but the sounds were intense. We couldn’t believe how active it was; birds were chirping, bats were flapping, and the bush crackled with the steps of strange critters. We could hear the kangaroos jumping about but couldn’t see them, so we headed back to the lodge. Ironically, we walked up on a kangaroo eating the grass in front of the lodge. We watched for a while and then we heard the bouncing of two others coming our way. Shortly, two small kangaroos hopped right by us. Wish we would have thought to stay here for a week. What a gem! We’ll be sure to take a walk tomorrow morning before we leave.Read more
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- Day 23
- Thursday, November 23, 2023 at 6:59 AM
- ☁️ 61 °F
- Altitude: 128 ft
AustraliaFlinders Street railway station37°48’57” S 144°58’1” E
Koalas and Kangaroos, Take Two

Gipsy Point was an amazing place to stay. We awoke to a cacophony of birds. They were difficult to match to their audibles, but we saw some magpies (much prettier than in the US), lorikeets, galahs, and others. We decided to take a walk and check out all the noises but only made it about 50 feet before we were greeted by four kangaroos. We spent a fair amount of time with them before we moved on, only to run into a couple more. I wish I knew more about birds because we came across a wide variety of them, as we walked along.
On our return, we said hello to the kangaroos who were still hanging out by the lodge. We packed up quietly, so as not to disturb them. As we drove away, I was extra cautious about wildlife on the road. We saw wombats, echidnas, and possums splayed out along side the roadway on our way to Paynesville, so they can be a real hazard.
We stopped in Bruthen for lunch. We found the Blue Bee Cafe inviting, so we stepped in to read the menu. The special of the today was chicken schnitzel with gravy and chips. Although Thanksgiving is a day away in the US, it’s Thursday here, so chicken, gravy, and potatoes sounded perfect. What we got was a little different than we imagined. I thought there might be some separation but the fries on the bottom were covered by cheese, which were supporting the cut schnitzel, which was all drown in a thick, brown gravy. It was a rich, delicious lunch but I thought I might fall asleep for the final leg of our drive. Luckily, they sold strong coffee, too.
We came to Paynesville specifically to visit Raymond Island. Back in the 1950’s, about 30 koalas were moved to the island to increase their number. The conversation effort succeeded and now there are about 200 koalas on the island. The island is reached by a five minute ferry ride. We walked off the ferry, which delivered us to the beginning of the “koala trail.” The island has little commercial business and is populated by modest, residential homes. The marked trail leads down different streets and up to a nature path. We did the bonus nature walk that takes you out to the ocean, but it was less exciting as the koala trail. We initially walked a couple of blocks before Kim pointed out a koala sleeping about 12 feet up in a gum tree. He woke briefly to take a look at us, then immediately fell back asleep. We’ve been told by several people that eucalyptus leaves, their main diet, is intoxicating. It’s no wonder they sleep about 20 hours a day. We saw a few other koalas, but they were abundant, when we got to the junction of the nature trail and the koala trail. Trees were dotted with them. We could have stayed there all day just watching them sleep. They are adorable. They are adept at finding the perfect combination of limbs to support them, as they sleep. Some were situated, so they hugged they tree while they slumbered. On our way back to the ferry, we ran into a koala that was actively eating and moving along the branch to find leaves to munch on. At first he caught our attention because he was hanging upside down like a monkey, Once he righted himself, he moved along the tree branch effortlessly.
After leaving Raymond Island, we stopped for some food and returned to our place. Outside, the Southern Cross was visible low in the sky, just off the horizon. A perfect end to a perfect day.Read more
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- Day 24
- Friday, November 24, 2023 at 5:32 PM
- 🌙 34 °F
- Altitude: 1,381 ft
United StatesCheney Reservoir37°45’4” N 97°49’19” W
Penguins!

The cottage at Paynesville was on an enormous lake, and the view from the living room looked out on the small waves. It’s been windy, so white caps had formed, framed by the swaying trees that stretched from the cabin to the shore.
Before we left today, we called home to wish everyone a happy Thanksgiving. We’ll be returning home in a few days, and I’m filled with trepidation; there’s been a time change since we left and late fall weather has set in. We’ll be coming home to short, cold days. Having been gone all of November, we’ve succeeded in staving off the gloom of winter. It’s not been less than 70 degrees and mostly sunny since touching ground in Fiji. I only wore pants for the first time last night, when we encountered our first heavy rain.
To get to Paynesville, we had to drive a portion of the Great Alpine Road. The name brings to mind pine trees, aspen, mountains, chalets, etc. Although beautiful and sparsely populated, the scenery still included a variety of gum trees, shrubs, and grasses. As we came down into the valleys, ferns provided additional greenery. The drive was gorgeous; there’s been nothing but incredible scenery, since we started down the coast. We stopped in Port Albert for fish and chips, which you would think would be simply. I steeped up to the counter and ordered fish and chips. I think he said, “Gummy.” I panicked, so I asked what her recommended. He hesitated and said, “We have gummy, rock, ling, or blue grenadier.” I have never heard of these fish. He seemed to sense my confusion and offered, “Rock is a nice fish,” so we had rock fish, and he was right; it was good.
We drove into Woolimai to check into our Air BnB and have a rest before moving on to the Nobbies. This overlook, on the southwest point of Phillip Island, is home to hundreds of fur seals, as well as dramatic ocean views, but we enjoyed the drive out to the point more than the destination itself. Much of the island is protected, so our drive was like wandering through a zoo. We found several echidnas (think large hedgehog crossed with a platypus), wallaby, and lots of Cape Barren geese whose bills look the same color as a glow-in-the-dark toy. The overlook was windy and cool but the crashing waves below were mesmerizing to watch. We saw a seal playing with an unlucky fish, tossing it around and diving into the water with it in its mouth. As we stood on the boardwalk, it began to sprinkle, so we loaded into the car to drive to the penguin parade.
The parade was our sole reason for coming to Phillip Island. There is a colony of about 32,000 little penguins (previously known as fairy penguins) that roost here. The sea birds are the smallest penguin and stand no taller than 18 inches high. They are a dark blue on the top half of their body, if you look at them long way from head to tail, and their belly is white. This serves them well in the ocean, making it difficult for raptors in the air to see them on the surface and camouflaging them from ocean predators, looking up from deeper waters. The birds spend about 80% of their time in the ocean, but several of them come ashore each night to feed their young, breed, etc. They usually come to shore in bunches, as there is safety in numbers. We purchased tickets to sit on the bleachers on the beach and watch their transition from sea to land at dusk.
We arrived at the welcome center and the rain picked up, so we stayed indoors as long as possible. By the time we needed to go to the beach, the rain was coming down fairly hard. We were lucky that the Air BnB had an umbrella, and we had also brought some plastic bags to sit on. We plunked down on the first row and watched the rivers of water pour down the stairs. It looked a lot like Red Rocks this summer sans the hail. We hunkered under the umbrella for a while and then, as if on cue, the rain stopped and a penguin appeared. The first one was a brave soul, exiting the water all by himself. As we watched, small batches, 4-8 at a time, waddled up the sand to the bush. We watched the birds for about 30 minutes before Kim asked the ranger a question. After we talked, she suggested where we should walk to get a much better view of the birds. Her instructions did not disappoint. We followed the boardwalk around to the south and found heaps of little penguins. The waddled past us, some heading inland and some climbing the steep hill, heading toward their burrows. There was a fat chick not far from us, who cried every time a penguin went by. Its high-pitched chirping made it sound as if it was starving, but it was clear it hadn’t missed too many regurgitated meals. We lingered until they asked us to leave. We hadn’t’ driven more than a couple kilometers from the penguins and the skies opened up again, pouring water in buckets. We felt very grateful to have had such a fortuitous break from the rain.Read more
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- Day 24
- Friday, November 24, 2023 at 6:13 PM
- ☁️ 34 °F
- Altitude: 709 ft
United StatesLoop41°53’15” N 87°37’54” W
Pit stop in Melbourne

Traffic is awful in the cities. Sydney and Melbourne make Denver traffic look like a walk in the park. Of course, some of it could be the challenge of driving on the left side of the road, but I’m pretty sure traffic is just horrendous here. It was a Saturday, and it made no difference. Regardless, we forged on to downtown Melbourne to see the Queen Victoria Market (QVM). The QVM has been in continuous operation for over 140 years. It started as a place to exchange food products but has grown into 600+ stalls’ worth of stuff. Since I was here in the mid-2000’s, they have added tasty food trucks to the mix. I finally had a meat pie, chicken tandoori specifically. The flaky crust embraced a gooey, spicy mix of spinach, potato, and chicken. Meat pies are a thing here, and you can get them stuffed with about anything. I noticed at the pie shop yesterday that the lamb and rosemary is a hot seller, as it was the only one completely sold out.
We drove from the market to Torquay (pronounced tore-key) to have dinner with a couple of friends. Julie lives in Torquay, which also happens to be the surfing capital of Australia. We spent hours eating, ice creaming, and drinking coffee, enjoying three different establishments. By the time we were done, it was dark and raining again. We’ll be back tomorrow to check out the surfing scene. Maybe you’re a big fan of Point Break (Patrick Swayze and Keanu Reeves)? The final wave scene happens on Bells Beach (although sadly filmed in the US), which also hosts the Rip Curl international pro event every Easter. It is the world’s longest continuously running pro surfing competition. I’m looking forward to seeing the area tomorrow, especially the break called “Boobs.” I’m curious how it got named.Read more
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- Day 26
- Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 4:11 AM
- ☁️ 45 °F
- Altitude: 479 ft
United StatesTarrant32°46’54” N 97°4’58” W
A small, small world

It was our last full day in Australia, so we took it easy. After sleeping in, we drove down to Torquay to shop and visit Bells Beach.
Torquay is an inviting little town and reminds me a bit of Santa Cruz. Surf shops line the main road and laid back cafes dot the town. Bells Beach is just outside of town to the west. There are two boardwalks from the car park; one overlooks the Winki Pop break and the other leads down to Bells Beach. Both are top surfing spots but not today. The tide was out and the wind was unforgiving, but there was a lone surfer out on the waves. We watched him for quite a while, before he rode to the beach and three kite surfers took his place. The kite surfers were traveling so fast on the wind, they made wakes visible to us perched up on the top of the hill.
We were about to leave, when a guy walked by me with a black tee shirt that read, “Football” across the top of the CSU logo and “Colorado State University” right below that. I blurted, “Go Rams!” and he stopped, looked down, and said, “Yeah.” Turns out he’s good friends with the punter’s (Australian Paddy Turner) parents and had recently been to campus in Fort Collins. Oddly, the team was playing Hawaii, as we spoke; Paddy’s parents were there for the game. What are the odds of running into someone wearing a CSU tee shirt at Bells Beach? Go Rams!Read more