Those are some nice boobies

We started our day on Isabella island, making landfall in Urbina Bay. We took a walk through the shrubbery and happened upon a small, giant tortoise. Did you know that tortoises never stop growing in their lifetime? This particular tortoise was probably 35-40 years old, as Gustavo noted that it had not reached sexual maturity yet, and that happens around age 40 in the wild. Although it was a good size, it still had a lot of growing to do. The tortoise politely let us take photos and loiter nearby, while Gustavo talked about the species. They are certainly built to last. A tortoise can live up to a year without water and are not opposed to eating cactus. These giant reptiles can live up to 200 years, which explains why some of them are still a little sore about pirates taking their family members for soup.

Following our walk n’ talk, we dawned our wetsuits and entered the bay from the black sand beach. There were turtles galore, eating their way over the rocks, as if it were a buffet. They didn’t seem to mind the surge, as it sloshed back and forth; their concentration on food was admirable. We kicked our way to an outcropping where we found blue footed boobies. Several of them posed for pictures and didn’t seem to mind our observing them so closely. We floated by them for a bit, then slowly headed back to shore. As we got close, Kim popped her head up and said, “Ray!” Just below the surface, a small eagle ray drifted by. I’ve seen eagle rays before, but this was a little bitty one. Regardless of its size, it is a graceful creature. It slowly moved its “wings” up and down, gliding effortlessly through the water. This one was in no hurry at all. It didn’t seem to be bothered by my swimming close and pointing my GoPro in its direction.

We sailed on to Tagus Cove, where we snorkeled again and took a hike up the side of an old volcano. But first, the crew broke out the kayaks, and we paddled around the shoreline. It was a beautiful day with a lot sunshine and crystal clear water. Cormorants and pelicans dominated the shore, while several turtles swam near, under, and around us. After poking their head up for air, we could see them dive for at least 20 feet in the clear water. Hundreds of species of fish were visible just below the water line, as well. After paddling, we returned to the Bonita, where we squeezed into our damp wetsuits and grabbed our snorkel gear. We confirmed on the snorkel adventure what we saw on the kayak: the cove is home to millions of fish and a whole lot of sea turtles. Not to mention the huge array of sea birds. I was in the water just a couple of minutes, and a cormorant whooshed by, leaving only of trail of bubbles behind. There was no catching him for a photo op. A bit later, Juergen, from Belgium, found a shark lingering under a rock. It was a small shark, maybe three feet, and was in no hurry. I followed it for a while, filming its slow and measured escape. When I got back to the boat, I found the fish identification book and discovered it was a Galápagos bullhead shark. Now, if you’re afraid of sharks, you haven’t met this species. In the book, it describes the animal’s reaction to divers, as follows: “Ignores divers unless molested, which may cause them to move sluggishly away.”

A hot shower preceded our hike up the volcano. Tagus Cove is horseshoe shaped, as it was once a volcano, but the western part of the crater wall collapsed and the ocean has since filled the caldera. We hiked up the side of the volcano, mostly for the exercise and the views. As we increased in altitude, we connected to another old volcano, whose caldera was full of fresh water. Apparently this is the only fresh water in the islands and was once a filling station for pirates and whalers. We continued to walk upwards, until we got to a viewing point. Ironically, as we stood on the volcanic rock formation, you could see some of the Darwin Volcano; the peak was covered in clouds. To the south, on Isabella island, is Alcedo Volcano and to the north is Wolf Volcano. In other words, the views were spectacular, especially with the sun beginning to set.

It was almost dark, as we approached the boat. Its lights shimmered on the water, with the last of the day’s light in the background. It was a busy day, and I was looking forward to a nice meal and a comfortable rest. So far, the Bonita certainly hasn’t disappointed in the food department. Our chef has kept us well fed and happy.Read more