The Power Trip Down Under

October - November 2006
I've wanted to see Australia and New Zealand, since my parents visited there a few years ago. I also wanted to get another continent under my belt, so I managed four weeks off of work to make my dreams come true. Read more
  • 33footprints
  • 3countries
  • 34days
  • 1photos
  • 0videos
  • 21.2kmiles
  • 19.1kmiles
  • Day 24

    A Fungus Among Us

    November 18, 2006 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    Ahhhhhhhhh! I was making a spot of tea this morning, when Kim returned from the shower with a worried look on her face. "Look at this!" She pulled up her shirt to reveal red, welted spots on her stomach. Apparently they are on her back and legs, too. EEEUUUW. She thinks it's ringworm, but I think she stayed too long in the mineral pools in Taupo. Then again, maybe she is trying to manifest an excuse to avoid going on a 4 day hike in the cold, wet rainforest. Hmmm. Stay tuned........Read more

  • Day 24

    Penguins and more penguins

    November 18, 2006 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    After getting over the initial shock of Kim's skin condition, we headed into Christchurch for some shopping. We both purchased polar fleece jackets, anticipating another layer of warmth may be needed on our tramp. The weather is actually sunny'ish today, but rain is forecasted for this afternoon. We had lunch at a Thai take away, following a noon hour interaction with locals.

    By the time we finished lunch, it was almost two, so we sped south to Oamaru, where the penguins can be seen at dusk. We arrive at the Visitors' Centre by 5:35 and Kim is complaining of itching. I've already tried to calm her with Calamine lotion, but she's acting up again. The volunteer at the Visitors' Center informs us that all medical clinics close by 5:30. Bummer. I finally talk her into trying some Benadryl, so we get the address to the local Chemist (pharmacy). Before we leave, we purchase a tour of yellow-eyed penguins for 7pm and blue penguins at 8:30pm.

    I won't go into the pharmacy episode, where Kim is lifting her shirt and flailing about showing the pharmacist what exactly it is that has gotten her; but, he did agree with me, it's not ringworm but some type of allergic reaction.

    The yellow eyed penguins are specific to the southern part of New Zealand and live nowhere else in the world. There are about 26 living in this area, and 18 of them are breeding. We were allowed to get up close to one of the nests and see a grown penguin with its two chicks. They are about two weeks old and already about 6-8 inches tall, having tripled their weight since birth. I snap some photos, but I don't think the light was too good. Did you know that the yellow eyed penguins mate for life? When the parents have chicks, they spend alternating days fishing all day or sitting with the chicks all day, until the chicks can feed themselves. We spent about 45 minutes with the penguin, also seeing others in the area, but they were too far to get a good look.

    By the time we finished, the wind had kicked up, and it was getting very cold. We got back to the campa and put on additional layers before watching the blue penguins. There is an old rock quarry on the coast in Oamaru's downtown area. The penguins come ashore here every night at dusk. We waited and the first raft of them came to shore. They are much smaller than the yellow eyed. The yellow were about 70 cm tall, and these are easily half that, probably smaller. They rolled on shore with the waves, tumbling as the curl broke onto the sand. It looked painful, but they seem unconcerned. They made their way halfway up the shore and just sat around. Did you know that these penguins quack just like ducks? Anyway, it wasn't until the next flotilla came ashore that the first penguins ran up to the bush and into their nests. This happened with the next wave, as well, until all were ashore. Hearing the chicks in the bush, we turned our binoculars to watch the parental penguins feeding their young. Some were so hungry they attacked the parent to get the food, fighting off their sibling for more. We watched for quite a while, then decided it was time to go get warm. As we drove away, penguins were everywhere, all through town. We were very careful not to hit one, but I wasn't able to avoid the hobbit that crossed in front of me. It was just a little bump.
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  • Day 25

    Earth pods

    November 19, 2006 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 50 °F

    We left Oamaru for Moerki. We arrived in less than an hour, due south of Oamaru, on the South Pacific coast. We were there to see some unusual rocks along the beach. The rocks were a ways down from the car park, so we strolled slowly along the water line, looking at the shells and little creatures. We found some fabulous shells and grabbed enough for every student in Ms. Wilks' class. They are small curly ones with vibrant colors. We must have walked about 45 minutes before we came to the rocks. They seem very out of place, as if someone dropped them there from another part of the world. The Maori believe they were food baskets from the great canoe that brought their people here from the original land of Hawaiiki. They are almost perfectly round and made of a hard clay, segmented by a quartz type of material. (I was really wishing I'd paid better attention in Geology class.) As the clay erodes the quartz becomes much more pronounced. Eventually, they break open, and there were several lying about the beach. It's difficult to describe but fascinating to see.

    After Moerki, we stopped in Palmerston for lunch. i had the old standby, fish 'n chips. And, as usual, they were great. From Palmerston we drove to Queenstown. Kim slept most of the way. I think the antihistamine is making her a little sleepy. Well, a lot sleepy, since she wasn't awakened by my driving!

    In Queenstown, we got set up at a Holiday Park, then went out and met some nice kiwis. We got home a little late. It is our last night sleeping in the campa, as we turn it in tomorrow. We'll miss the old cruiza. It's been good to us.
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  • Day 26

    Travel Day to Te Anau

    November 20, 2006 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 50 °F

    We left the campa today with a fond farewell. I must say I am looking forward to a mattress tonight! We did a little shopping in the town centre, then boarded the bus for Te Anau. Te Anau is the staging area for the Milford track and the longer Kepler track. We had reservations for the Bella Vista hotel, and the private toilet and bed were a very welcome sight! We visited a Chinese restaurant and ate a great last meal, as tomorrow starts four days of freeze-dried food stuff. I've not felt well all day, so my headache and I hit the pillow early, while Kim stayed up late.Read more

  • Day 27

    Disappointment

    November 21, 2006 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Well, we had to cancel our 4 day trek. I woke up very ill, with a puking, needle in the eye, wish-I-were-dead, migraine. Because the track is so regulated, you must leave on the date and time that you booked. Unfortunately, I could not recover that quickly and we had to make the very painful decision to cancel the whole trek. It was not a pleasant traveling moment, but one I hope I forget quickly. I was really wanting to hike this trail and had booked it in July. I suppose I should be grateful I didn't have a stroke, given that my head felt as though it would explode.

    By the end of the day, I was feeling a little more human, so we did get out and walk the first part of the Milford track. I at least got to go on one of the swing bridges I had hoped to cross on the tramp. Because we now have 4 days to blow in Te Anau (not a big town), we will do a day hike of Kepler track, and take a cruise on Milford Sound tomorrow and Doubtful Sound on Wednesday. It's not what I had planned but not a bad alternative! Oh well, I guess I'll just need to return again some other time to make the trek. Cheers!
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  • Day 28

    Kepler track

    November 22, 2006 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    We took our time getting up this morning. I was feeling better physically but was still a little disappointed about having to cancel yesterday. We had a late breakfast and decided to take a mammoth hike to shake off the bad feelings. We walked the shore of Lake Te Anau. The path leads around the south end, with what appears to be more of an arid bush, then it turns over the dam toward the Kepler Track. We stopped over the dam, admiring the feat of engineering it must have taken, then we were off into the rain forest. The country has fewer animals than Australia, but the bush is incredible. There is moss growing on moss, growing on moss, growing on fungus, growing on trees, growing on the ground...There are just green things continually growing on top of other things in the rain forest. It is so amazing, and then I imagine the things I cannot see. We walked around the southern tip of the lake but not all the way around, as it is about 55 miles long.

    Five hours later, we were tired and hungry. We made pasta, with pesto, played a little poker, and called it a night.
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  • Day 29

    Doubtful and Happy

    November 23, 2006 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    We were up and at 'em early today; caught the coach, with a lot of blue hairs, and rode to Lake Manapouri. It's the fifth largest lake in NZ and the second deepest. The lake wasn't our destination, just a stop on the way. The day looked to be sunny, but we had to cross a mountain range, and they warned it could turn on us. Manapouri was beautiful, and it took about an hour to transit the lake. We got into another coach and had our complimentary visit to the underground power station. Not my idea of fun but interesting none the less. The bus then took us to Doubtful Sound. It is the second longest sound in the Fiords National Park and is also part of the World Heritage Site. We floated through the fiord throughout the day. Unfortunately, the weather was crummy but luckily not totally a waste. The rain was light, and the clouds stayed high enough for us to see the mountain tops (mostly).

    The fiord is still quite remote, and there were very few boats on the water. Because of the access restrictions, there are no residents on the shore, there are no moorings, and there just is no civilization out there. It is truly Gods' country. At one point the captain took us into a cove, turned off the motor, and we sat in complete silence, save for the birds on the shore and wind in the trees. The beauty of the fiords, and as I remember from a similar boat ride in Norway, are the spontaneous waterfalls, which tumble from high above all the way to the sea. Spectacular is an understatement.

    At the mouth of the Sound, where it meets the Tasman Sea, there was a NZ fur seal colony, with the furry little mammals laying on the rocks, bathing in the drizzle. We also saw crown penguins swimming, but none on shore posing for my lens. Dang. The cruise was several hours long, and we did a lot of picture taking.

    We got back into town at about 5pm, made dinner, then walked into town for groceries. We will be cruising Milford Sound tomorrow, which is much different than Doubtful. Stay tuned....
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  • Day 30

    Milford Sound Fiord

    November 24, 2006 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    We were up early today and on the bus without a hitch. Our driver/guide was Alec, and he was a smart one. Loved bashing the Aussies. Apparently that's a national past time here. We took the bus through heavy beech forest, rainforest, and alpine scenery. We drove through the Homer tunnel, a one-way going downhill, which then opened into a picturesque valley leading to the sound. All around us, waterfalls dripped from the rock faces. Some could be traced from their origin at the top, traveling 1500 feet, to their destination at the bottom. We had some sunshine, so we were very happy. We arrived at the wharf and hopped on our boat for the day. After pushing from the dock, a large waterfall immediately came into view around the corner. It was one of many for the day. We floated the south side of the sound first. Stopping at Fairy Falls, where wisps of water flow down a moss encrusted rock face, then we saw a leopard seal (eating machines in March of the Penguins), who was up from the Antarctic for a visit. Next were fiord crested penguins. I think I accidently called them crown penguins before. Sorry about that. We made our way into the Tasman Sea to take a lazy U-turn back into the fiord. Note: a fiord is created by glacial action, which these are, whereas a sound is carved by water, such as a river, which these are not. So the Milford Sound is a misnomer and it should be Milford Fiord, but that would be a huge blow to the postcard industry, so there you have it. Anyway, we came back into the fiord, sailing along the north side of the valley. We saw some New Zealand fur seals and lots more falls. Before we knew it, three hours had passed and it was time to board the bus again. We stopped at Chasm Falls, for a bush walk to the river. The erosion that had created the hole was amazing. Rounded rocks, fallen trees, and beautiful emerald river water. Nice.

    We arrived in Te Anau in time for more Chinese food and a night's sleep.
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  • Day 31

    Bus and plane and car and peds

    November 25, 2006 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Today was a travel day, crossing the length of the country, from southernly Te Anau to northernly Tutukaka. Why on earth would you visit a place called Tutukaka? Some of the best diving in the world, supposedly. We'll see tomorrow.Read more

  • Day 32

    One of Jacques Cousteau's Top 10

    November 26, 2006 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We were off to the dive shop, bright and early. Got checked in, then called home to wish everybody a happy Thanksgiving. We boarded the Calypso, and sailed out to Poor Knights Islands. They are not sure why Capt. Cook named them Poor Knights, but they have been designated a marine reserve, due to their pristine quality above and below the water. We were fitted with 7 mil wet suits (I'm not a cold water diver, by the way), and a tonnage of lead weights, so as not to float away in the wet suit. Upon donning our gear, we now looked like the penguins and waddled the same way too! As one hits the water on that giant stride, there is an immediate sense of tension, as the body is revolting against the extreme conditions. The water feels like ice, and to my poor uncovered hands, they are expecting to run into a glacier any moment. Amazingly, the wet suit does its job and only my hands and feet suffer much.

    We first dive Cave Mao Mao. This is the site that Jacques has rated as one of the top 10 in the world. Our visibility isn't the best, but it is a great dive. Lots of fish I have never seen before and interesting anemones and corals. Upon surfacing, everyone makes for the tea, coffee and hot soup. Our surface interval is spent driving around the islands, in and out of sea caves, and lounging in the sun. It's actually sunny and warm! YEA!!!!! The second dive is down Magic Wall and along the adjacent reef. The growth is spectacular. I cannot believe the life on this volcanic island. Blues, greens, purples, even neon orange. It is truly amazing. Kim has some problems in the cold and surfaces early, then the next couple go up, then the divemaster-in-training surfaces; but I go the distance: 57 minutes of true ecstasy (well, if it was warmer, this was more like true satisfaction). I got to the boat, teeth chattering and body shaking, but smiling. This was a good day.

    We sail back to Tutukaka, sitting in the sun the whole way. We drove up to Russell for a day of sailing tomorrow.
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