• You are not a tree
  • You are not a tree

South America Sojourn

A 64-day adventure by You are not a tree Read more
  • Trip start
    August 27, 2015

    On my way!

    August 27, 2015 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    The adventure begins with an early rise and a nighttime drive to the airport. Of course, I just knew I'd forgotten something. Turns out that something was an ESTA and this is apparently important (read obligatory) for transit it USA. Whoops! Thanks mum and random car salesman for sorting me out. Less thanks to the waiter who cleaned away my breakfast when I stood up to make a panicked phonecall. Guess I'll just need to have second breakfast! (and third on the plane. I could get used to this hobbiting business)Read more

  • Heathrow

    August 27, 2015 in England ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Hooray for long journeys. I've just finished Station Elevenand I've been thinking about it alot for three reasons. The first is because it's a bloody good book (I'd recommend it to everyone) The second because I have man flu and now I can convince myself I might actually be dying. And the third is airports. Now when I look around I keep imagining the apocalypse (not acopolypse Geo) The man beside me with his paperback novel is actually reading poetry and has steel toecap boots. I think I should make a friend...just in case.Read more

  • Atlanta Airport

    August 27, 2015 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Home of the CDC , zombies and quite yummy ginger chunks. Also delay due to a "broken" plane. Guess we should be grateful they discovered this before take off.

  • Welcome to Ecuador!

    August 28, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I'm writing this from the wonderful Cafe Fabiolito in the sunshine in Plaza Grande. They are wonderful due to their yummy bocadillo, amazingly required fruit juice and for perfectly working around my terrible Spanish (despite speaking perfect English) Our Hotel San Francisco de Quito is pretty cute, with cool views from the top veranda (and only 6 flights of stairs to get up there!)Read more

  • Exploring Quito

    August 28, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Lots of churches....like so many churches. And other pretty buildings too. But mostly churches. And museums with signs only in Spanish. My favourite was the little free one, because it actually felt like a church instead of a tourist site.Read more

  • A few thoughts on Quito

    August 29, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    1. The colourful houses make a patchwork quilt covering the mountains.
    2. Large traffic jams are usually due to police check points or taxi drivers who fancy an ice cream.
    3. Local delicases include potato with potato soup and hot toddy type drink with lemon, cinnamon and sugar cane syrup alcohol. It's almost like they knew I have a cold! Oh and everything is served with avocado. Therefore I'm in loveRead more

  • Welcome to the jungle

    August 30, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Today was an early rise and a long (Liam Neeson themed) public bus trip out of Quito, to Tena, then 4x4s to Mishaeuvilla then canoe to our lodge and home for the next few days. We are staying in a community project, run by Kichwa women. They wished to empower themselves and preserve their culture and so started this venture. There are around 50 women working here and they all rotate their jobs regularly. We happened on their fortnightly meeting and got to glimpse the community at its best. It's very nice to see women defining themselves outside of their relationships to men, particularly in the machismo culture of central and south America. Later we were treated to a traditional dance, and then we joined in! And finally, with the help of all the little children we all danced and limboed on the beach. I do love some crazy dancing!Read more

  • Settling In

    August 31, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    Today was jungle day. Tourist jungle, so no animals but still cool to see all the plants, insects and birds. The colourful toucan and kingfishers were winners. As was the magical cure to my cold! It was the bark of one tree, mixed with water then snorted. Burns like hell and for 5 minutes my whole face was streaming water: but after that, I was (and even better remain) completely snot free. Hooray! Then another so far trip highlight as we floated peacefully down the river on tubes. Picture: jungle flora all around, warm turquoise water. blazing sunshine, gentle current and all around birds and crickets. Pretty close to heaven? As I am now, tucked in bed (under my mosquito net therefore completely safe) typing this while outside it is raining gently. Sounds just like those soothing tapes you get to help you sleep. Except real.Read more

  • Carishina

    September 1, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After the downpours of yesterday evening/night we woke up to a lovely cool morning. And I even managed to brave the toilets in the middle of the night. Not a single arachnid in sight! Today we played at being Quechua. We went into the jungle to gather the food we needed for lunch and I learnt a new insult. Carishina. It means "like a man" because in their community the men only hunt, everything else is done by the woman, and therefore to do something like a man means to be rubbish at it. I also learnt how useful a machete is. It is their one tool and they use it for everything. The little girls are very good with them. Then we made chocolate. For real: super easy! You simply cut the plant, remove the beans, dry them, toast them, grind them, add powered milk and sugar, grind again then add some (in our case lemongrass) water and voila! Beautiful chocolate sauce. There is something lovely about growing everything you eat. Want some chili sauce? Go pick the chilies! In the afternoon we continued our experience with panning for gold, shooting blow guns (I was pretty damn good, if I say so myself) and making bracelets. Finally a night walk with lots of flutterbyes (and definitely no spiders... especially not tarantulas or poisonous ones) then goodnight and goodbye to the jungle and our new friends!Read more

  • Toilet Town

    September 2, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Tourist Capital of Ecuador, nestled in mountains and volcanos. Famous for hot springs and extreme sports...we made it famous for dancing. The local Ecuadorians and Cubians taught us salsa until every bar had closed. Spoiler: I'm not very good at salsa, despite the good teachers.Read more

  • La Casa del Arbol

    September 3, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After a breakfast of pancakes we headed to the tree house at the end of the world. Steep climb up and up and up the mountain side to the foot of the currently mildly erupting Tungurahua volcano. Unfortunately clouds obscured our view of the summit but it was a spectacular experience none the less. You do feel like you are flying over the edge of the world.Read more

  • Zip Lines and Hot Pools

    September 4, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Today I experienced proper Baños and made the most of what it's famous for. Morning of zip lining and afternoon of hot pools and my first ever massage! Then another spontaneous evening of Salsa. Bumped into Team Tena! Kayakers are here from the whole of Ecuador for their first ever whitewater competition tomorrow. A little gutted to miss it but glad to meet these cool people. No other photos today though, all taken by others! But a great day none the less.Read more

  • Bye bye Baños

    September 5, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Another early start and a long drive to our next destination (and last in Ecuador) On the way we visited view points, Ingapirca and the Panama Hat factory! Oh and I added another unusual food to my lady for the trip. Larvae, lemon flavored ants and now guinea pig.Read more

  • Cuenca

    September 6, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A very pretty old town, mass in the cathedral, flower market (someone took my beautiful multicoloured rose but I figure they needed it more than me) Oh and shrunken heads.

  • Adiós Ecuador y Hola Peru

    September 7, 2015 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    I do have today's story tucked in my brain. We travelled out of Cuenca (through beautiful scenery, some of which looks surprisingly like) through the far south of Ecuador to cross the border into Perú. I could say that the country already has a very different feel to it, that we'll miss our last guide Jo, or that our fresh grilled fish dinner was delicious or many other things. But I can only think that I'm tucked cosy in bed and all I can hear is the ocean and crickets and my curtains are wide open to catch the sunrise. I'm happy.Read more

  • Beach Day!

    September 8, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    I do love the ocean. And surfing. I love that too. Zorritos also gave us some of the best food of the trip so far. Fresh grilled fish, paella, cheviche, lemonade....so good! Chilling on the beach with a bonfire, stars and local pisco, a really great night.Read more

  • Sipán

    September 10, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    A morning of discovery! Bustling Chiclayo and this Museo. Called the most important recent archeological site in Peru and featuring beautiful and intricate ceramics and golden and silver peices from the Moches civilisation (200-700AD, long before the Inca's) A picture of me! But sadly none inside. Peru already has a very different feel to Ecuador (almost as if it was a different country!) It's not just the sudden change from jungle to desert, the people feel different also. Just as friendly but somehow busier and more extroverted. And there is much more visible poverty.Read more

  • Hueca de la Luna

    September 11, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Temple of the Moon (as named by the Inca's) Another opportunity to experience some of the Moches culture. Used for mainly ceremonies and religion it features beautiful and colourful paintings inside. Interestingly each of the builders marked the blocks they had made with individual symbols. I like the all the other non artistic people with their smiley faces and stick figuresRead more

  • Chan Chan

    September 11, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Capital of the kingdom of Chimor where 30,000 people lived in 20km2 until the Incas conquered them in 1470. The labyrinth of passageways feature perfect carvings. Our guide was super cool and played us great pan pipe music. And he makes cool woodcarvings. He's pretty bad ass.Read more

  • Lima!

    September 13, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Our first overnight bus brought us here. We got to choose our own films on this one, which I appreciated after our last bus gave us Fast and Furious 1-5 (in Spanish) Lima has some beautiful colonial buildings (I do live the colours) and we persuaded our guide that Pisco Sours would improve the walking tour tremendously and enjoyed them in the very building they were invented. Delicious!Read more

  • Nazca

    September 14, 2015 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Famous for the lines. Made by ancient people, aliens, masons, or the Peruvian board of tourism? You decide. I opted for the towers rather than the nausea inducing plane. Not quite such clear views but an awesome time nonetheless. Our taxi driver turned out to be a young tour guide who told us stories and the history, laughed with our terrible jokes and showed us all the sites of nazca, including the farm which makes the local Pisco and later, the karaoke bar. Oh but my camera battery died midsunset, sad times.Read more