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Scotland

A make it up as we go along journey through Scotland. Lue lisää
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  • Matkan aloitus
    15. huhtikuuta 2018
    Travel with the WicksScotlandMatkaaja

    Starting Out

    15. huhtikuuta 2018, Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Scotland...a romantic place to visit....perfect for our 40th wedding anniversary.

    We are packing our stuff and supposed to leave in 30 minutes, but we are spending time on less productive things like looking for the selfie stick and arguing (discussing) who was the last person to have it. Rob finally said, “don’t you two have to get going?”

    So we did, obviously Dianne is already making her shopping list.

    Our flight leaves at 18:25 for London arriving at 10am and after a short flight on British Airways we will arrive in Edinburgh shortly after 3 tomorrow afternoon.

    I got through security unmolested, but Miss Perfect rang the bell for further random sniffing. It is an electronic dog that does the sniffing, and it seems Dianne smelled alright because there was no further woofing or bell ringing.    Lue lisää

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    We walked miles and miles

    16. huhtikuuta 2018, Englanti ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We arrived a few minutes early to Heathrow and it was a good thing too. AC parked at Terminal 2; British Airways leaves from Terminal 5. After clearing customs, Tom asked for directions to Terminal 5; he was told simply go thru the doors make a right then left to the train. What they didn’t say it was miles to the train.

    Eventually we made it to terminal 5 and since we sprang for business class tickets on BA we are in the lounge.
    I am such a Prima Donna when it comes to travel now! As we travel standby we had high hopes to be bumped up to business class. Our hopes were dashed when we saw row 38 on our boarding passes. We took our usual seats near the washrooms which didn’t improve my bad mood.

    I knew a couple of the flight attendants who worked the flight to London so of course I was well behaved.    Lue lisää

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    View from our room

    Edinburgh Tram and Scotsman Steps

    16. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    The tram ride into Edinburgh was pleasant enough. Like riding the C-Train in Calgary, but places for your luggage. We arrived at St Andrews Square, got our bearings and headed off to the Scotsman Hotel. Our book said there was an entrance to the hotel off of Market Street. Well that’s easy enough we thought but what we didn’t know was there were 104 steps up to the entrance! The Scotsman Steps, made from different colours of marble. The steps separate old town from new town, and you do step back in time as you ascend. Tom grumbled but offered to carry both our bags up.

    After waiting on Dianne for what seemed like an hour, we headed out to get moneyed up, scout train schedules and find a pub to eat in. First two on the list, not that tough, and you would think that finding a pub with good eats wouldn’t be a challenge, but we sometimes have difficulty agreeing on what would be a good place to eat. First it has to have people in it and appear popular. It can’t be too highbrow. One place was populated with what Dianne describes as “old geezers” and she felt we would not fit in. We walked up and down stairs and hills around the neighbourhood and finally settled on a pub just a few steps from the Scotsman. When we found it, Dianne pointed out that she liked this place from the time we passed by it on our way to the hotel.

    The Doric Tavern is the oldest gastro pub (whatever that means) in town. The mood was subdued,and the surroundings old and creaky. We had fish and chips with no ketchup. I wasn’t sure I could pronounce ketchup in Scottish so we went without. When Dianne ordered her wine she asked how big a serving it was. Our server replied “it’s a turd of a bottle”.    Lue lisää

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    Entrance to Palace of Holyroodhouse
    Edinburgh Parliament BuildingsSt. Giles CathedralA little fun!

    Train Tickets and the Royal Mile

    17. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Needing transportation to Fort William and beyond, we stopped at Waverly station to get tickets. I remember the Scots as having a reputation of being frugal, and our ticket agent did not disappoint us. He suggested a rail pass that would meet our needs, but we would be required to have passport style pictures of ourselves for the pass identification. Further he suggested that we could save some money on the pictures by going to the photo booth outside Marks and Spencers and quickly switch places while it was taking our photos. We both loved the idea of saving some money while performing a Chinese fire drill in the photo booth. This particular booth is more complicated than I remember them being. There is an array of options to choose from and we ended up doing the seat changing fire drill, but spending more than twice what we wanted and having about 11 non flattering pictures of ourselves. One was portrait size of a very stern looking Dianne. I see the humour in it now but nobody was smiling then. The ticket agent was amused.

    The royal mile is just around the corner of our hotel. We walked down the hill to Holyrood Palace, stopping in every Christmas store and walked back up the hill towards Edinburgh Castle stopping in every Christmas store we missed on the way down. Mostly Dianne is a browser when it comes to shopping at the stores. I want to buy from the first shop we go into so we can stop looking. We compromised by getting a coffee around halfway.    Lue lisää

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    2Edinburgh Castle entranceMons Meg ammunitionMons Meg

    Edinburgh Castle

    17. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    You can tell by the history recorded at Edinburgh Castle that the English and the Scottish have had some difficulty getting along in the past. The castle is described by Rick Steves as “ an iconic hilltop fort and royal residence, complete with Crown Jewels, Romanesque chapel and a fine military museum.Lue lisää

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    1View of Scott Monument from Princes Garden1Daffodils in bloom

    Ghilley Dhu

    17. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    On the way to our planned eating establishment we walked through Princes Street Garden. It is a nice green space that separates old Edinburgh and new Edinburgh. The park has a good vibe with a great view of the castle. Ghilley Dhu is the name of a pub we researched from home. It is said to be traditional Scottish food and fare. It was Scottish alright, and the food was good, but I can’t confirm that steak is traditional Scot. The servers wore kilts and we were too early for the live music. Adam Morris is the featured artist tonight. I’m pretty sure he isn’t hip hop or rap. We’ll check the reviews tomorrow.Lue lisää

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    1First selfie with new stick!
    1Standing guard!

    Quick visit in Glasgow

    18. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I’m not a big fan of the selfie stick. We have a lot of pictures of ourselves with me and what looks like a fake smile in front of whatever church, castle, monument, boat, shopping centre, or cutout celebrity that is on hand. If I don’t smile enough for Dianne’s satisfaction, we take another pic. That being said, I don’t think I was the last person to have our missing selfie stick.

    We took the train to Glasgow this morning on our way to Fort William. We had enough time in Glasgow to go shopping for a new selfie stick. The last one I purchased in China at the Pearl market. It was very inexpensive. So much so that I thought there was no chance of getting a poorer quality version. I was wrong. We were able to find a shorter, less functional version, making me long for the old stick. We also picked up a couple of sandwiches for the rest of the journey.

    As I write we are training through the Scottish highlands. The scenery is spectacular with hilltops obscured by cloud. Some snow in the higher elevations, and early spring emerging everywhere around us. We fit in with the granola crowd on this train. We have our hiking shoes and layered clothing along with our backpacks and my weathered old man face for a selfie.    Lue lisää

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    We are in the Highlands!

    18. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Just after 4 this afternoon we arrived in Fort William after a scenery filled 4 hour train ride. The country side is beautiful. Along the way some hikers would wave as the train went by. We found the b&b within a 20 minute walk from the train station, which was good because I booked it on line, and you never know for sure until you’re there. Our accommodations are very pleasant and bright. Nice to experience, but boring to talk about.Lue lisää

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    The Hogwarts Express

    19. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Our travelling companions today are a couple from Australia, sitting across from us, and two Scottish couples sitting beside us who keep trying to get us to pay them for the excellent scenery. The train we are on is the Hogwarts Express. The steam engine and railcars are in the Harry Potter movies. Dianne has the window seat and I have the aisle. We sit facing the Aussies, with whom we make good conversation. The Scots beside me have one loud and entertaining lady who keeps their foursome going with a constant commentary about her take on life. She has tried to get me interested in a possible two for one divorce, mentioned when she saw a pretty garden shed that they had a Granny annex, and true to Scot form, berated her husband when he fell asleep. “You paid for the view.”

    We both agreed that it was a good day even though we were apprehensive at the start. We only had one way tickets. When we booked, they said that it was the full coming back. Our reserved seats on the way to Mallaig were not together, and I was concerned Dianne would find a new beau. No worries though. We showed up early and they found us seats together and return tickets at a fraction of the price we would pay if we booked a later ride on a different train. To celebrate our good fortune, I splurged for a ride on a small boat that cruised the western islands. It was only two islands in the end. I'll call them seal island and seagull island. You can imagine.

    Malliag and the boat ride remind us of Newfoundland. The rugged coastline and the difficulty discerning what the locals are saying adds to our sentiment.    Lue lisää

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    Fish & Chips and Haggis

    19. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    We didn't have enough time to sit down for lunch after our boat ride, so we got some fish and chips to go. As I sat and spread my feast before me, the loud Scot lady looked at me sternly and said "no food or drink on the train". Her husband chimed "we'll have to confiscate that". We all started to laugh. The ride back was the same scenery in reverse. All good, and when we returned to Fort William put together a loose plan for tomorrow, that is weather and bus schedule dependant.

    The Austrailians had asked us if we had tried Haggis. We admitted we hadn't, but said we would like to. Now was the time and we went into a restaurant on High street and ordered Haggis Neeps and Mash... and a salad to wash it all down. Dianne has some Irish blood according to her family tree, and my Grandma Gillis (nee Griffin) claimed to be Scottish, so it is really no surprise that we both enjoyed the Haggis. It has oatmeal in it with various other meat ingredients like liver, heart, lung and maybe a few other things. Around here it is made from sheep, but it depends on the local favourite. Neeps is mashed turnip and mash is potato.    Lue lisää

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    our Fort William B&B1Tom calls home

    Bus to Glencoe and Inverness

    20. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    We dragged our suitcases from the b&b to the train station where we could store the luggage. We walked at a good pace and the noise of our approaching wheels clattering over the cobblestones struck fear into the older and slower Scotsman we passed. All to no avail as we sit on a broken bus that has an intended destination of Glencoe. We were early for the bus, it was late, now it is getting a few squirts of WD40 so the door will open.

    We get to Glencoe and it is a pretty village with lots of character. We find a hiking trail and start out still dry, but rain threatens. Unfortunately (fortunately) we have no time for shopping because our bus was late. Only a bit of rain for our hike, and the ride back to Fort William is on time. We eat lunch and catch another bus for Inverness.

    There is no train to Inverness that doesn’t go back to Glasgow. That would be about a 10 hour day, so the 2 hour bus ride makes sense. It is raining hard as I write this, the road is narrow and lots of traffic. It seems we are up in the clouds, however Inverness has a sunny forecast so things should get better for our arrival.

    As Tom snoozed part of the way he missed the stunning scenery around him. As we got closer to Inverness everything was green and lush and the sun came out.    Lue lisää

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    Our hike in Glencoe

    20. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C
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    Inverness

    20. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Once again we arrive at the city airport, bus station, train station, you name it, with only a vague idea of where our accommodation is. Dianne’s last word on the subject was “ I want to be near the train station.” We are at the bus station, but I think it’s close. We have the name of the hotel, the Heathmount, and internet access. Dianne’s phone draws a map and mine is used as a compass. We walk through the streets of Inverness staring at our phones. It doesn’t take long before Dianne reminds me that she wanted to be close to the train station. A bit of irony could be noticed here. We just took a bus to Glencoe so we could do some hiking, now we are hiking through the the city and that’s a problem? True, we are dragging all of our precious belongings with us and we don’t exactly know where we are going but whatever.

    It isn’t long before we see a hotel sign Heathmont. Dianne recalls now that she OK’d this hotel before I booked it. As we approach we see a lively sun room that is well attended by the Friday after work crowd. The pub at least is a popular spot. Dragging our bags up the steps we find that reception for this abode is at the bar. Interesting. The last time I checked in at the bar of a hotel was in Malone New York about 27 years ago. Dianne and I had all four kids with us and we were desperate. We are not so desperate now. We both reserve judgment until we see the room. It is newly renovated and quite comfortable. We have coffee and a four poster bed. Might not be too bad.    Lue lisää

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    Here we go!

    21. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    As you can see Tom is excited for our bus tour this morning!, or maybe it’s for our Scottish breakfast. We are off to find the Lock Ness monster; Nessie. I think our chances are good....

    Today is gorgeous, it’s first day we need sunglasses! Our tour leaves on time and the driver/guide has a running commentary that is both interesting and informative. ( if you like that kind of thing)Lue lisää

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    Searching for Nessie!

    21. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We started with a 20 minute bus tour/ride to the boat on Loch Ness. The boat took us on a 30 minute cruise on Loch Ness.The water was calm and the sun was shining, a perfect day for cruis'in!

    And NO we did not see Nessie!Lue lisää

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    Urquhart Castle

    21. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    The castle was originally constructed in 1203 and thrived in the region under various ownership until it was partially destroyed in 1692 to prevent the Jacobites from occupying it. It was the largest and most important castle at the time, but was abandoned and never restored. We liked the castle ruins and could have spent more time there but we had to go to the less important and way more tourist trapish Loch Ness exhibit! That was how the tour was scheduled.Lue lisää

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    More stories from the Castle

    21. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Urquhart Castle occupies a significant place in Scottish history. While at the castle, Dianne and I had the opportunity to listen to fellow who was dressed as a medieval warrior speak eloquently about the castle history and further elaborate on Scottish history. Someone in our group asked about William Wallace and his relationship to the castle. “Oh, I guess you’ve seen Braveheart” he replied. He goes on to explain that the movie Braveheart was not well received in Scotland due to its historical inaccuracy. He went on to debunk everything from plot line, wardrobe, hairstyles and character relationships, to the fake Scottish accents. He had a convincing rebuttal! My impression is that if you managed to screw something up, you should refer to it as a Mel, and if you turned in into a total abomination, that would be doing the full Mel Gibson. So far on this trip I’ve had a few Mels but hopefully I will avoid a full Mel Gibson.Lue lisää

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    a few more pics of Inverness

    21. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
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    Off to Pitlochry!

    22. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Smoked haddock and a poached egg for breakfast. Off by train to Pitlochry. Dianne booked our accommodation in Pitlochry, so I am very interested in how close we are to the train. It seems like a quick trip but we have been riding the rails for almost 2 hours when we arrive. We emailed our arrival time to the hotel and lo and behold a man is there to pick us up. Doesn’t have to be that close when you get a ride.Lue lisää

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    Our castle stay!

    22. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We (I) wanted to stay in a castle hotel. The difficulty was finding one to fit our needs; ie close to the train and to a town....Pitlochry had such a castle Fonab. We have a corner room and it is nice...we soon had our room looking like home...with socks and underwear hanging on the towel warmers.

    The thing is we are seldom in the nice room....we went to town, we went to the spa and swam, hot tubbed, steamed and sauna’d. We had dinner in the restaurant at the hotel....we had a beautiful view from our table.    Lue lisää

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    A small dram of Scotch!

    22. huhtikuuta 2018, Skotlanti ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We arrived earlier than check in time, so we stowed our bags at the hotel and headed off for a tour of the Blair Athol distillery. It is a bit of a walk downstream and over a bridge of the river Tummel. They started legally making whiskey here in 1765. Our guide is a Welshman, but has lived here so long he sounds Scottish. He takes advantage of his heritage by continually reminding those of us on tour, how cheap the Scots are! “Have you ever known a Scot to give something away?” It is a favorite refrain during the tour. He talks of how they sell the mash back to the farmers when they are finished with it, how they sell the casks or repurpose them for furniture when they are no longer useful. To drive this point home, the dream of whiskey that we are promised at the end is what both Dianne and I consider quite small. Dianne drinks hers and mine is put into a tiny container for Dianne to have later. It seems hardly worth it to carry it anywhere.Lue lisää

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