C-c-c-Close to the Edge

Journey to Machu Picchu

I was going to pretend that Lesley and I set off like Thelma and Louise, driving across the pampas and sierra of the Sacred Valley in our own car. I have a selection of artfully taken photographs to prove it, but disappointingly, it's not true. Juan Fabiancito was 'the man', our very own private chauffeur who picked us up from our hotel at 7 O'Clock on Saturday morning and delivered us, via Pisac, Calca and Urubamba to Ollantaytambo. From there we caught the Inca Express to Aguas Calientes, a decidedly weird 'village', built on either side of the railway line that brings the legions of visitors to the foot of Machu Picchu. Nobody lives in Aguas Calientes. At least I hope nobody is that unlucky. It is in fact just a collection of half-constructed hotels and brash restaurants, most of which are open to the elements, the elements being somewhat cold. The opinion of a rather charming Irishman we met on the steep climb up to the Sun Gate at Machu Picchu perhaps sums it up, so I will quote him here. "It's a shit hole."

The first port of call on our journey was the ruin of the ancient citadel at Pisac, an atmospheric place at such an early time of the day, shrouded in smoky clouds until the sun broke through. This was followed by a whirlwind tour of its modern day tourist market selling the usual array of brightly coloured fabrics, clothes, bags and jewellery. Also on offer, for a price (voluntaria) were the usual photographs with children, in traditional dress, carrying lambs. You have to do it!

The next stop was at the Salineras or Pre-Inca Salt Mines:

"Salt has been harvested from the briny waters of the Salineras spring for thousands of years. There are thousands of salt pans nestled in a canyon, which are used to evaporate water to extract the salt. The salty water is directed to the ponds by an intricate network of channels. Once the pond is filled, the flow of water is cut and it is allowed to dry. Salt precipitates in crystals, and when dry it can be harvested. The salt pan is run on a cooperative system."

I have to quote Wiki Travel at this point because it was at least 12 O'Clock when we arrived here and we only had 30 minutes allocated for the hike down to the site, so we opted to have an alpaca burger with purple chips in the cafe instead - time well spent ;)

Our final stop, from where we caught the Inca Express to Aguas Calientes was Ollantaytambo, a beautiful, authentic, Inca town, former royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti, with a dramatic, steeply terraced, ancient site. Following the compulsory climb and photo session, we retired 'cansadas' to a cafe in the small main square where Lesley drank Coke with a capital C and I drank mate de coca with a small c. You have to deal with the altitude somehow.

The scenery in the Sacred Valley is spectacular. Before Pisac, it is rugged and dotted with small settlements. We spotted a group of teepee-like houses, constructed from clay, wood and thatch which looked like a hippy hamlet or possibly hobbit homes. Approaching Ollantaytambo the landscape changes abruptly; dry, yellow grassland contrasts with deep blue mountains, the open road stretching far ahead. The train from Ollantaytambo initially cuts through rushing rocky gorges before skirting the lush, sub-tropical vegetation nearer Aguas Calientes. An atmosphere of cheerful anticipation was created by the passengers in our carriage who carried out an impromptu rendition of traditional Peruvian songs (complete with conductor) throughout the journey.

That evening, entering my hotel room at Aguas Calientes, I was struck by the sound of rushing water. Luckily it wasn't the plumbing. As I opened the curtains and the door to the balcony, I realised the source; the river canyon we had passed on the train ran (raged) directly beneath my window! All this, and Machu Picchu in the morning :)Weiterlesen