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FRENCH CAMINO 2024
  • Paul Wynands
  • Paul Nicholas
  • Paul Wynands
  • Paul Nicholas

FRENCH CAMINO 2024

A 40-day adventure by Paul & Paul Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 29, 2024
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    Departure Day

    August 29, 2024 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    We are on our way! Dropped off at airport by the lovely Jules, who leaves her role at work for greener pastures today. Said our goodbyes to loved ones and entered the cacophony of departure areas. Paul’s first option on getting through that was to head for the bar. And we haven’t even started walking.Read more

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    Landed in Barcelona

    August 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    A long long flight. Three legs, so many airline meals (and drinks) and 30 hours later we arrived in Barcelona. A fellow traveller from Christchurch was heading to Poland and a long planned visit to Auchwitz. Paul W said surely her holiday could only get better.
    We were having a beer close to our hotel when a friendly local suggested we come to her restaurant for dinner. To our suprise the street was closed and a street festival was in full swing. Locals having a lot of fun, dancing in the streets, as we did. Food was great ( our new friend ordered for us) and was good value. Now on the train to Pamplona. The real adventure starts tomorrow.

    We have decided to alternate the reports, so tall Paul [PW] is writing next. Expect flowery and inflated reports.    Read more

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    Two days in one

    September 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Out last night with Jonathon Pereira’s cousin Kishore in Pamplona, an absolutely wonderful city. Regrettably, had a problem with Renfe, the Spanish railway network, that meant that we didn’t arrive in Pamplona till 6pm when we should’ve been there at 1:30pm. Renfe informed us in Spanish that people had to get off for a new train a stop prior to Pamplona. That meant there was a swag of tourists that missed the diversion, and had to get off at a much later stop, After pleading with Renfe officials in broken Spanish, a bus was organised by Renfe to take us into Pamplona. As a result we missed exploring Pamplona and watching the test rugby loss to SA with him. But mostly this meant less time with Kishore, who was a gentle, , generous and erudite host, when he could figure out my accent. True to the Pereira standard of hospitality and welcome. We went to some amazing eateries in the Old Town and tasted quality portions selected by Kishore. It was a sensory overload, amplified by fact that we were already pretty tired. . We tried to tempt Kishore to a walk a part of the Camino with us, but he gracefully declined. He would be great to walk with - knowledgeable about local cuisine and custom and fun to be around. . Both Paul’s are absolutely blown away by the regions various food delicacies, the novel, seriously packed, bars and warmth and hospitality of the Spanish people. . Just wish their train system was a little more efficient. Nevertheless, life here certainly beats NZ on a wet, winters Saturday night. Happy Fathers Day to everyone out there.

    Tomorrow we start our Camino officially. 24 km to Puenta del Reina.. I’m typing this in hostel accomodation, no air conditioning and feels I’m in early twenties heat. Hard to sleep, still a bit jet lagged, but I think daily exercise will solve that. PN doing next post.    Read more

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    Addendum: Culinary time in Pamplona

    September 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I’m not a big foodie, but last night was such an experience that I asked Kishore to list what was served for perpetuity. Last night we started with the salted anchovy with papada ibérica and smoked butter. Then you had the croquette with ham, the steak tartar on wonton, the lamb waffle and the traditional bread crumbs with poached egg.
    We then went to the last bar where you tasted the ajoarriero (the cod with the poached egg), txistorra (navarran sausage), the pastry filled with black pudding and the piquillo red pepper sauce) and the salmon ceviche with guacamole.

    I can definitively say I have never had food like this before. It was a visual and sensory delight. I’m going back to Pamplona.    Read more

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    Day 1 walking

    September 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Our first walking day. 25km from Pamplona to Puente La Reina. A very pleasant wander through rolling hills going from 1 village to the next. Lots of fellow walkers so plenty of chatting. Ideal weather with some light showers and then a sunny afternoon. Bodies holding up well. A great feeling to be on the path at last, especially after the food and drink excesses of Pamplona and Barcelona. The mind goes into neutral as most of the day was spent in that special part of the male brain where nothing happens.Read more

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    Day 2: Puente La Reina to Estella

    September 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    PW. 22km of flat, well managed paths that pass through delightful small villages. Some of these villages are on steep inclines that are a grunt to access. Add to that 27 degrees Celsius of scorching, unrelenting heat . The day wasn’t physically easy requiring lots of water stops, and we glad to reach the albergue, exhausted, after walking 6 hours in depleting sun.

    Then there are the other pilgrims at we pass and sometimes talk to.. Everyone there for their own reasons., stated or unstated. The Australian mum who had triple negative breast cancer 15 years ago, still around to tell the tale. She watched the movie The Way during her early recovery and said to herself that she’s going to walk the Camino. The South African born, UK based corporate lawyer who retrained as a child and adolescent psychotherapist, and now going through a messy separation in her 30 year marriage. The Spanish gay couple celebrating 20 years of their marriage together.

    There are folk I pass will have physical challenges completing the Camino. Age, body weight, lack of fitness, or experience in walking longer trails. They are grinding it out, one step at a time, one town at at time.. It is both painful and inspiring to watch. I always give these folk a hearty “Buen Camino” when we pass them. With 720km still to go, they are the real heroes.

    Our exceptional culinary experience in Pamplona was followed by the worst meal of our lives at a restaurant in Puente La Reina. Frozen, uncooked pasta shells, seafood marinara with 3 small mussels and tomato sauce in pasta, and packet cappuccino in boiled milk. We had dinner with Catherine, used to eating well in London’s best, who tossed her plate aside and claimed this was, without question, the worst meal of her life. Paul N has a lot to answer for choosing the restaurant.

    We went from the sublime to the ridiculous overnight.

    My first blister on trail being nurtured. Long 28km to Sansol tomorrow.    Read more

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    Day 3. Estella to Sansol. 29.52km

    September 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A long day with thankfully cooler temperatures. Pleasant countryside with few villages. Meet some nice people along the way who were happy to chat. Tall Paul had an interesting talk to an American medical specialist while I was happy to walk by myself. Always a pleasure to encounter our favorite pilgrim, Catherine, who is finishing her El Comino leg tomorrow. She will be back.
    Our accommodation in Sansol has a feet soaking cold water pool. Exactly what our tired feet need. Dinner tonight will be a home cooked Paella with local red wine.
    Not long after leaving Estella there is a free red wine tap. Didn't really appeal at 8:30am.    Read more

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    Day 4: Sansol to Longrono. 22.6 km

    September 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Shortish day to get to Longrono, the centre of the La Rioja wine region. As a result, we walked between many small holding vineyards in overcast and pleasantly cool conditions. Body still getting used to walking kind distances every day ; stiff and sore after each day. People who’ve done previous Caminos say that by second week we’ll be storming. I hope so - there are a lot of kilometres left to do.

    The previous evening we spent in our first full-noise bunk house in Sansol, which was well appointed, but just busy. All kinds of bodily sounds in the night, including my own. Hostel put on a massive paella night for pilgrims, copious La Rioja red wine as well as entertainment. But us old people were too tired to carry on and in our bunk bed by 9pm. Jury is out for us whether we use the bunk rooms as a main place to sleep. We have found places with twin bed room and shower for 10 euro extra which suits us old men fine.

    So right now in Longrono, which has a famous street full of tapas bars and, you guessed it, La Rioja reds. It’s times like this that I knew so something about wines. Small Paul and I heading down there now, where the other pilgrims are gathering.    Read more

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    Day 5. Logrono to Najera. 28.5km.

    September 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Another long day but over easy terrain. Following a major highway but far enough away to feel that you are in the countryside. Lots of grape vines bulging with fruit. Thankfully overcast most of the way with light rain in the morning. I would like more sun but tall Paul prefers the clouds. A number of stunning Cathedrals on the route. The early wealth and power of the catholic church is very obvious. A small nondescript town has a major Cathedral full of ornate wooden panels and statues of every saint. All dripping in gold leaf. No doubt plundered from Spanish colonial conquests.
    Bodies are getting acclimatized to 25+ km days. Tall Paul has a blister but seems to be managing the discomfort. My feet are good which has been a blessing considering my pre departure foot issues. Staying in shared dormitory accommodation tonight, which is not our first choice but all we can get. We are too old to be sharing with strangers. Catherine, our mate from the UK has finished her Comino section and heading home tomorrow. Thanks for the fun times Catherine.
    Tall Paul has bought a new top. The colour was Libby's favorite from years ago.    Read more

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    Camino Moment - PW

    September 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    People on the Camino talk about moments that they attribute to something termed ‘spiritual’. Most people who know me know I am mostly sceptical about these attributions. Good luck or coincidence are probably better terms. However, today I spent time with a lovely Northern Irish woman, Anne, walking to Najera. She was a grandmother of 14, mother of 5, extraordinary wedding cake maker, had a brother involved in the IRA and imprisoned in the Maze, and had a brilliantly sharp mind and wit. We had a few laughs together. Anne then started talking about friends and family who’d passed with cancer. For the first time on trail, I mentioned fleetingly about Libby’s recent breast cancer diagnosis. Topic lasted less than a minute max.

    We then caught up with Anne’s husband, Eugene, who was walking with small Paul, at a rest place. I sat down and was chatting with the Irish group. Eugene then presented me his hand made Camino momento - see below. He said we hear your wife has been going through some health difficulties and we hope that this will help ease things for her and your family. I don’t recollect Ann chatting with him when she arrived or how he knew this fact. Other Paul didn’t tell him. It was quite spooky. He then told me the history of the memento; that he was a retired shoe repairer in Belfast and that he made only a few of these self stitched leather mementos to pass onto people on the trail who he felt needed or deserved them. I got the last one.

    As soon as that interaction was over, the Irish group left, not to be seen again. Spirits in the night.

    I now have this memento attached to my pack for the rest of the journey. Given Libby’s Irish roots, I carry it with pride.

    How does one attribute an interaction like this one today? Coincidence? Nice people doing nice things? Premonition? All I know was that it was not ordinary.

    Comments please.    Read more

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    Day 6: Najera to Granon. 28.5 km

    September 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Another long day to follow up the two previous 28 km days. Our bodies are just holding up. We’re stiff and sore at days end; I’ve got a throbbing right knee from past patella tendon issues that I’m nursing and the blister by my left big toe is finally healing. No discomfort there, which is great.

    The scenery remains pretty static - vineyards, fields of sunflowers, plowed fields and small villages, with the church at centre on hills. These villages can be a grunt to get to - especially after walking in heat for 6+ hours.

    What’s not changing are the pilgrims on the trail. There are alot of them. We wake up and think who’s bumping into us, what discussions will be had, on today’s 25+ km walk…

    Up there today was the American, apple pie mom living in a 7 member blended family in Cincinnati. Let’s call her Kate. Kate’s first husband became paranoid, controlling and threatening towards during their separation. It gets ugly for Kate. He began telling his workmate that he wanted to be rid of his ex-wife. The workmate detects something strange is going on, becomes concerned and secretly informed the authorities.

    What next happens is that he the FBI do surveillance on her ex. They become really concerned. They ask the workmate to tell her ex that he knows someone to do the job and can arrange a meeting. The meeting goes ahead with an FBI undercover agent, her ex explains on camera that he wants his wife disposed of and hands over $8000. The FBI swoop and long and short is that he gets 10 years for aiding and abetting an attempted homicide. Kate reckons the whole process took three years off her life. She recalls the FBI swooping on her after school pick up and informing her of what’s happened with her ex.

    Kate then takes over the care of her three daughters, meets a new man who has four boys and she gives up her marketing work to be a full time regular American mom, coaching volleyball and doing pick up etc. This is how she presents today

    She now looks back and says that she thought she was more to him than the $8000 offered!

    Camino Moment: During today’s walk I got an email from our albergue to say they’ve overbooked. They’ve given us a welcome upgrade to an apartment: outdoor pool, clean sheets, real towels, washing machine etc. No two person cupboards with shower tonight! After a week on Camino, we need this lift.    Read more

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    Day 7. Granon to Espinosa. 25km

    September 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    A quiet day on the Comino. Almost a through day. Undulating farm country following a major highway. A few very quiet villages on the way with no cafe's so a hungry morning. Normally I can't function without breakfast but the body and head are adapting. Chatted to lots of people over the day from all parts of the world. Showed a few the correct poling technique for which they were very grateful. I'll be interested to see if they maintain the correct way when we see them tomorrow. Today's Comino story. A chap we meet first walked the Comino back in 2015. He was in a group of 5 and somehow a small dog befriended them. They would depart their hostel in the morning and this dog would be waiting outside. Eventually the dog was adopted by the group and stayed with them until Santiago. One of the group took the dog back to Germany and it has enjoyed a fine life ever since . Nice.
    The bodies are finally feeling good. Today, for the first time the legs are not sore and energy levels are good. It's taken 7 days of 25+km to get to this stage. We are well prepared physically for a dreaded section named the Meseta. 200km of flat nothing. This section is all about the mind.
    Tonight we are in a lovely pension run by an elderly German couple. A home cooked meal to be looked forward to.    Read more

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    Espinosa del Camino to Cardenuela. 29km.

    September 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A pleasant 7 hour Camino through pine and maple forests that intersect small towns with their ever present and dominant Catholic Church. We started out in cooler conditions, but the sun came out in full force in the afternoon, which didn’t help the grind over the hill and then the road walk to reach our final town - Cardenuela Riopico. The albergue has a cold pool that helped soothe our aching feet. That saying, our bodies are certainly stronger and recovery time has considerably reduced.

    According to Camino folk lore, the first third - 250km - is about physical preparation, second third - 500 km - is all about the mind as we are walking the long, barren paths in the Misetta, and last third - 750km - is about soul as we go through Galicia where it’s wetter and greener and about new life and beginnings.

    I was thinking of a NZ tramping analogy. We have just walked through the low Canterbury foothills for the first 250km for fitness; now we’re moving into Central Otago (without any lake or mountain vistas; just barren walking) for the next 250km; until we end up in the West Coast for the final 250 km.

    Hokitika as the NZ version of Santiago de Compostela!

    We have some concerns about this progression of body, mind, soul. Small Paul doubts he has something resembling a mind and we both doubt the concept of soul. So as we approach the end of the physical juncture in Burgos, we talked about tapping out of the Camino and staying with the physical - hitting the white sand beaches of the Algrave in southern Portugal….or even go full physical climbing in the Pyrenees.

    Let’s see what how we feel after our 25 km walk to and through Burgos tomorrow.

    Buen Camino!    Read more

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    Catedral de Santa Maria XIII - Burgos

    September 9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We’ve come into Burgos - the end of the physical chapter of the Camino. Just before we caught up with Antonio and Rnelio, two quite beautiful Spanish men, who live outside Madrid, we toured Burgos Cathedral. This was a central point for early pilgrims to gather before they went onto the barren Misetta.

    True to form, the Cathedral was overwhelming. I recall Phil and Maree Cave recommending us visit; didn’t think I’d be that blown away! It was another realm and time. Essentially it seemed to be one main cathedral with numerous, decadent side chapels in memory of various saints or archbishops. The craftsmanship and attention to detail was incredible. As with much of these historical buildings, our attention span lasts for an hour and we find we cannot take much more in.

    It was therefore a welcome distraction that we caught up with Antonio and Rnelio for final tapas and drinks in Burgos. They have finished their section to Burgos and are on the train to Madrid this afternoon.

    Adios! Saludos! Antonio and Rnelio. I hope we meet again in another place and time.    Read more

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    Day 9, Cardenuela Riopico to Villalbilla

    Sep 9–13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Day 9, Cardenuela Riopico to Villalbilla, 25.5km.

    After a good sleep at a very nice albergue we set off at 7:20am and soon hit the industrial outskirts of Burgos. A tour of the Caredral de Santa Maria XIII reconfirmed my almost disgust at the power and wealth of the church. See photos and tall Paul's comments.
    We had a drink and tapas with some Spanish friends we met on the trail. A male couple who live just outside Madrid. Really nice guys. We were joined by 2 girls from San Francisco. When Paul mentioned that he had live there in 1987 their reply was 'we weren't born then'. End of conversation.
    Terrain covered today was flat so easy going even though it was hot in the afternoon. Not so easy walking after a glass of wine, followed by a beer. 30km day tomorrow so we will be in bed early    Read more

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    Day 10: Vilabilla to Castrojeriz. 37 km

    September 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    PW: The longest day ever. Started at 7:30am and arrived around 5pm. 7 hours of walking. 5 km per hour. We had a most pleasant night in Vilabilla, which was 5 km short of our destination of Tardajos. Enjoyed a pleasant menu del dia with liquid supplements. So today we had to make up that and then go an additional 32 km.

    Only redeeming feature is that the walking is flat and fast in the Misetta. It is also quite beautiful in a barren, parched windswept kind of way. We were blessed with a hot day and a relieving and cooling north easterly wind on our backs.

    I spent the morning walking with Manolo, a larger than life Galician Spaniard of my age. We had no common language but were pushing each other over the first part of the Misetta. I wished my son, Sam, was with me to help with translation. I was curious about the life he’d lead in Galacia; did he have a family? What was his work? Why was he walking the Camino for the 14th time? In the end it didn’t matter. We gave each other a massive hug at the end of the section because we’d kept each other company, and pushed each other, in a non verbal type of way.

    Spent lunch in Hontanas. A charming town. Paul and I getting used to having a beer and Spanish omelette with bread for lunch. Seems to get us through. Lunch was spent talking with a Berlin based German psychotherapist just out of her training; Paul N wandered off looking for other action. The great thing about doing a Camino is that you can reacquaint (or not!) yourself with the pilgrims you meet briefly as you walk the different sections.

    Serious issue of competition of hostel beds. There are LOTS of pilgrims on the trail. Small Paul and I are already competing for accomodation and it will likely get worse the closer we get to Santiago.

    We finally got to the beautiful historic pilgrim town of Castrojeriz late in the day, exhausted. Next day should be shorter - 25 km! - and we are winging it by going into the next town (Fromistra) without any booked accomodation. We are relying on the intercession of the Camino angels…    Read more

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    Day 11, Castrojeriz to Fromista 22km

    September 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Only 22km today which after 37km yesterday was most welcome. Relaxing on our beds at 2:45pm, clothes and bodies all washed. Will have to confess we had a ride on a canal boat for the last 3km. At a cost of €2 it was too tempting. Another very pleasant day on the Meseta. Open rolling plains with great views, easy pathways and occasionally hills to climb. We had read that the Meseta was a boring, soulless section but so far its been a highlight. Weather is just perfect. Not too hot and a cooling breeze on our backs.
    The usual day of meeting new people, have a chat and move on. We met a very nice Spanish guy who works in Brussels. Full of chat with deep insights into the EEC and it's inner workings. A bunch of Aussie girls (60+) were good fun and appreciated my demonstration of poling technique s. Tall Paul finds my keenness to help amusing and hurries ahead to avoid.
    We are staying in a Municipal Albergue for the first time. At €14 it's very good value but with limited bathroom facilities the morning rush to get out will be challenging. Tall Paul has just negotiated to put his mattress on the floor. His height has been causing issues. Low Spanish doorways have resulted in numerous bumps to the head. As far as I can tell there has been no long term damage.
    Rest time now, followed by beer and good value menus del dia. 425km to go. We WILL DO THIS.    Read more

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    Day 12: Fromistra to Carrion de los Cond

    September 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Spent the night in our first official Municipal Albergue in Fromistra, a pretty non de script Spanish town. Both us us spent night tossing and turning as we battled to get to sleep in a dormitory room of 40 plus. Only relief was inserting blue tack in my ears to get some lightweight sleep - thanks Bernard Fanning!

    Next day was a 20 km walk in the park following a path that was next to a main road. Surrounding us was dull farmland scenery. However, along the route we stopped at Villalcazar de Sirga to view the magnificent Santa Maria La Blanca, a gothic church built in the 12th century by the Knights Templar to protect pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land. Guide book stated that this was a church that should not be missed on the Camino - and it wasn’t wrong. I’ve attached photos to give you a sense of the wonder and construction.

    We arrived in Carrion de los Condes without much fatigue. On way into town we met this American guy in the middle of reviving the murals of an abandoned church. He called us in to show us his progress, which was inspiring. To fund this, he holds concerts at the local cathedral. Tonight there is a Spanish guitar rehearsal which Paul and I have been cordially invited to attend. He wants to have a few beers with us after the concert.

    Accomodation is getting tricky but both are winging it. Tonight we’re sleeping in (believe it or not) an operating Catholic convent that has rooms for pilgrims. Catherine Churchman would love this place. It’s functional and has that convent austerity about it.

    Paul and I sharing a room with Manolo, my Galician friend, who’s lying nearby trying to learn English online. A real character.

    I need to say here that of all the nationalities we’ve meet so far, some of the warmest and most effusive have been the Spanish on their trail. From Estella and Pep from Gerona, to Manuel based in Brussels, to Galician Monolo and Antonio and Rnelio near Madrid; they’ve all been genuine people.    Read more

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    Day 13, Carrion de los Condes to

    September 13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    26.8km
    The names of our departure and arrival towns would not fit into today's title space. Spain has a lot of similar place names. The name tells the story.
    Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios. Carrion was a pleasant town while Terradillos is a tiny nothing (pop 80). We are staying at very nice albergue named Jacques de Molay. The village was a stronghold of the Knights Templar and the albergue name was the last Grand Master of the Order.
    Somewhat of a dull day on the trail. Flat path ahead and flat all around us. A long stretch of 17km with no facilities, apart from a welcomed coffee cart. Chatted to some new people and continued conversations with familiar faces. We are a day ahead of our schedule so most of the faces we saw on day 1 are behind us.
    Back to Carrion. We went to a guitar concert last night. Very accomplished musicians playing Spanish and 1 Chinese composition. The last piece was with 4 guitars which is something I had not heard before.
    We have a few more dull days ahead and then into Leon to experience city delights. Terradillos is roughly the half way mark for the pilgrims who started in France. Slightly less than 400km for us.    Read more

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    Day 14: Terradillos to Calzadilla. 28 km

    September 14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Left Terradillos de los Templarios 20 minutes later than usual. We both had great sleeps in a room away from the main dormitories. Made all the difference. We thought we’d walk alongside the road to Bercianos del Real Camino, but speaking with lovely Bea from Madrid the previous night, redirected ourselves away from the main road and onto an old Roman road for the next 10 km. Now in a very rural Albergue in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, and have a barren 23 km walk out tomorrow towards Mansilla de las Mulas.

    We have a group of very religious Hungarian elderly woman, that we suspect are nuns, walking the Camino alongside us. The surprise today was turning the corner and one of the nuns peeing in full view of all of us. Sometimes you just have to go on the Camino. Small Paul quite appropriately said to turn away and wait until she’d finished. We did this with grace.

    We then went through a major town, Sahagun, walked through a local market and got some baguettes for the trail. Met two Danish young woman and walked with them till we took the alternative route, about half an hour later. Rest of the trail was spent walking 2-3 hours in isolation in hot 24 degree conditions with pretty bland rural and forest land surrounding us.

    We are now in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, relaxing and recovering outside a local bar while locals discuss issues intently and animately. After 28 km on a hot, barren Roman road, give these two men a beer. Tonight we will head onto a local restaurant with other pilgrims to have a €15 menu del dia; not the most exciting food but keeps us sustained with the kilometres we are covering.    Read more

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    11Bea, our Camino Angel

    Day 15. Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

    September 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    23km walked.
    Again there is no room for the full title of our departure village and planned destination. We headed off in half light along a very quiet country road. Beanies were worn for the first time. It's always special to walk pre sunrise. The landscape was flat with irrigated fields of sunflowers and corn. The colors popped as the sun rose. We had a 17km section before the next town. As it was Sunday all was very quiet. No coffee for us in that town. We continued on for another 6km to our planned destination but a brilliant idea was formulated. Our guide book advised catching a bus for the 18km journey into Leon. This will give us 2 nights in Leon and thus a full day to explore the city. Unfortunately we discovered that there would be a 4 hour wait for the next bus but tall Paul managed to negotiate a €30 taxi ride shared with another pilgrim. Now in hotel having a well earned rest. We have covered 410km in 15 days and most certainly in need of a day off.
    Will hit the tapas bars tonight and enjoy a sleep in tomorrow.    Read more

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    Day 15: Kings of Leon

    September 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Paulus Minimus came up with a great plan to have two rest nights in the wonderful city of Leon. Paul Maximus thought this was the best idea ever as we were both knackered.

    Today has been spent very casually with the purpose of resting our bodies. We got up late (not the usual 6:30 am), had a late breakfast and then shifted into a new digs down the road as current booking had no rooms for second night. Now staying in what appears to be a former Franciscan friary, converted into smart twin bed rooms for pilgrims. Church next door if anyone has the compulsion to attend a pilgrims mass at 17:30.

    Afternoon spent wandering around the congested eating streets of Leon. Popped into the Basilica of a San Isidore (thanks Antonio!), which is located on the site of an ancient Roman temple. Its Christian roots can be traced back to the early 10th century when a monastery for Saint John the Baptist was erected on the grounds.

    Next we tried to get into the Musea de Leon for the exhibits on the Camino, but being a Monday in Spain, it was closed! So what now awaits us is a visit to the premier Leon Cathedral, which opens at 4 pm. Meanwhile, I have retreated from the intense 28 degree afternoon heat and just had a siesta in our room. I think I could fit easily into the relaxed Spanish lifestyle, obligatory afternoon siesta, followed by late evening socialising. All complemented by great food, drink and conversation.

    Small Paul is still out there, taking it all in and tolerating the heat. He loves soaking in the atmosphere of a place; noticing how locals do things and where a good inexpensive bar is located.

    We head out to tomorrow by bus to Hospital de Orbigo to avoid walking through industrial Leon. We plan to walk 15 km to Astorga, from where we will make our final push to Santiago de Compestela over the next 12 days.

    Buen Camino everyone!    Read more

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