• Jeremy McCartin
  • Jeremy McCartin

South America and Antarctica

Visiting several South American countries and a cruise to Antarctica and the Falklands with wonderful friends! Read more
  • Trip start
    December 27, 2025

    Exploring Santiago

    December 28, 2025 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Sunday is our only full day in Santiago. Our driver Jorge yesterday suggested we take the funicular up to the Cerro San Cristobal which was a great call. It was a 1 kilometre walk to the start point through a nice residential area. Once we were at the top there were fantastic views of the whole city (which is vast) and the surrounding mountains. In the photo's are the Statue of the Virgin of Immaculate Conception and the quite modest church itself.

    After taking in the views we returned via the funicular and walked to a metro station so we could visit the older part of the city. The destination for us was the Chilean Museum of Pre-Columbian Art, which was very interesting. We looked at a few of the older buildings and caught the metro back to the hotel for a siesta. It has been a warm day in the low 30's.

    Found a bar for (strong) mojito's and then a great dinner at DGANG club with huge portions and excellent cocktails. I think we will sleep well tonight. Off to Lima tomorrow to join the rest of the tour.
    Read more

  • Santiago to Lima

    December 29, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Travel day today. After a morning walk past the Gran Torre Santiago - the tallest building in South America - we headed to the airport for our flight to Lima to join the tour group. Arrived a bit late to crazy crazy traffic (worse than Bogota), checked into the hotel and found a nice local restaurant for dinner. First Pisco Sour of the trip! Early start tomorrow with a Lima city tour, 2 nights here before heading to Cusco.Read more

  • Lima City Tour

    December 30, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today we had an organised tour of the Lima City Centre, stopping on the way at Huaca Pucllana, an archaeological site in Miraflores (near our hotel). It was built by the Lima culture, a pre-Incan indigenous coastal civilisation between 200 CE and 700 CE. It has staggered platforms surrounded by a plaza and large walls.

    We next went to the Plaza Jose de San Martin with the monument to General José de San Martín, the liberator of Peru, Argentina, and Chile. From there we walked up a pedestrianised street towards the main square, stopping at the Basilica de La Merced (late 17th century). Lots of diverse architecture here.

    In the centre of Lima we saw the Plaza de Armas (main square) with buildings around the square being the Government Palace, the Cathedral of Lima, the Archbishop’s Palace of Lima, the Municipal Palace and the Palace of the Union.

    Back to the hotel with free time we walked to the JFK Gardens which includes a cat park! Then we walked in the other direction to the Pacific Ocean - people surf along here although the beach is cut off by a massive 6 lane road. We decided for dinner to go to a "Chinfa" restaurant - there have been Canonese influences in Peru since the 1920s. That would explain the fried rice on offer at breakfast. Tomorrow we fly to Cusco for New Year's Eve.
    Read more

  • Travel to Cusco

    December 31, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    This morning we left Lima and flew to Cusco. There was a giant guinea pig at Lima airport!Our hotel is in a Spanish Colonial building and very charming. Cusco is our guide Ronaldo's home city and we had a brief tour of the main square; there will be lots of partying here later. We will finally get to see our friends and the plan is dinner and watching the festivities. Tomorrow we have a more extensive city tour planned. Happy New Year!Read more

  • Cusco NYE and NYD

    January 1 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    New Years Eve in Cusco and after a drink at the hotel we had a group dinner including alpaca (tastes like beef) and watched some Peruvian dancing. In the main square it was raining heavily so we retreated to the hotel (the midnight firework photo is not mine).

    Today we started with a drive up to the Inca temple of Saqsaywaman with incredible stonework. One of the photos shows a Puma paw - the Condor, Puma and Snake are important parts of the Inca religion.

    After a retail stop we went back to Cusco for a tour of the Koricancha temple remains. The Spanish conquerers built a church over it but some walls remain with trapezoidal doors for strength. The window in the photo lines up with the winter solstice and the holes would have had precious stones. Inside the temple the walls were lined with silver and gold - that all went back to Spain. The seat set in the stone wall was where they placed the mummified Inca Kings so the people could bring offerings.

    We also visited the Cathedral of Cusco in the main square which is a huge Basilica that took over 100 years to construct (no internal photos, sorry). After a rest we caught up with our friends at a brewery and went to the Irish pub for dinner. Sacred Valley tomorrow.
    Read more

  • Sacred Valley

    January 2 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    A busy day with many hours spent in the bus. But it was worth it! We went to the Sacred Valley of the Inca's. At Pisac there are granaries and farming terraces, with temples up high. After lunch in Urubamba we were going to visit Ollantaytambo but it was very crowded so we will return tomorrow on the way to the train station.

    Instead we visited Chincero which is another temple site at 3800 metres elevation. Naturally with these amazing landscapes photo's don't really do them justice. Back to Cusco and we caught up with the crew for a charcoal chicken dinner. Early night as we have an early start on Saturday, travelling to Aguas Calientes by train and Machu Picchu on Sunday.
    Read more

  • Ollantaytambo & Aguas Calientes

    January 3 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Up early, checked out of the hotel in Cusco (leaving suitcases there) we made it to Ollantaytambo which is an Inca town and was the Royal Estate of Emperor Pachacuti. The terraces lead up to the Temple of the Sun, with granaries up on the hills and fountains at ground level. It is a amazing site especially with a living town next door.

    Nearby is the station where we boarded the train to Aguas Calientes, the town closest to Machu Picchu and the only way to get there. The train line runs through the town and past our hotel. We had a free afternoon so did some shopping, had a drink with our friends and the tour group (18 people) had dinner.

    Early start tomorrow, we will arrive at Machu Picchu a bit after 7am.
    Read more

  • Machu Picchu

    January 4 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Another early start but well worth it. Arrived at Machu Picchu about 7:30am. Ronald (our guide) took us around the site, which is nothing short of spectacular, historic, spiritual and photo's don't do it justice. Even the weather was glorious.

    We had around 3 hours at the site, then returned to Aguas Calientes for free time (lunch and shopping) before boarding the train and then a bus back to Cusco. Just an amazing day!
    Read more

  • Last Day in Cusco

    January 5 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today we had a tour of Moray and Maras, an hour north of Cusco. The terraces at Moray were used as an agricultural laboratory, testing different crops at different levels. At Maras are salt evaporation ponds which have produced pink salt since the 12th century. Last stop was a textile centre where we had a demonstration of how the alpaca wool is dyed to make different colours.

    Back to Cusco for a final walk around and dinner with our friends. Very early start tomorrow flying to Lima and then Buenos Aires. Farewell Peru, it has been magical.
    Read more

  • Travel to Argentina

    January 6 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Tuesday was a travel day, we were up really early for the 7:30am flight to Lima from Cusco, then a lunchtime flight to Buenos Aires. They are 2 hours ahead of Peru so it was after 6pm when we landed.

    Some in the tour group (including 6 all of us) were booked in for The Argentine Experience dinner, which involved 16 dishes, making empanada's and chimichuri, drinking wine and mate, a local herbal tea like concoction. We fell into bed at midnight.

    (Thanks for the photo's Heather.)
    Read more

  • Buenos Aires

    January 7 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Our Wednesday in Buenos Aires started with a city bus tour. We visited the Plaza de Mayo with the pink Presidental Office and other grand buildings. There is a real European feel to this city with French and Italian style architecture. Then we went to Caminito Street in the La Boca neighbourhood which is very colourful.

    The tour finished in Recoleta neighbourhood so with Heather and Bruce we went to the cemetery to see the resting place of Eva Peron. The cemetery dates from 1822 and is full of highly decorated (and run down) mausoleums.

    Buenos Aires is a flat grid and easy to walk around. We visited the El Ateneo bookshop which is in a converted theatre, then had lunch and caught some other sights on the way to the hotel. Free time tonight for dinner and we go to the cruise terminal tomorrow at noon. We stay on the ship at the dock and leave on the 9th of January.
    Read more

  • Transfer to Cruise Ship

    January 8 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    Today we left the hotel and were bussed to the Cruise Terminal to board the Sapphire Princess. The check-in process took a couple of hours. Our cabin is very nice, however Princess have completely fucked up our drinks/wifi package so a lot of time was wasted trying to get that fixed. We had a great dinner and found one of better bars. It's great to be on board!Read more

  • Sail Away from Buenos Aires

    January 9 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Today we left the ship for a bit of a wander around the nearby city and to the older port area, which is a bit like Docklands (struggling restaurants, apartments, not many people).

    We made it back for lunch and waited for the sail away party, with a few drinks as well. It is interesting to feel the ship in motion, might take a few days to get used to it.

    The wifi issue has now been resolved but there is going to be a war over getting a refund. I cannot fucking believe how unprofessional Princess Cruises is... at least the worry is gone for now.

    The link below is for our ship, you can follow our cruise online.
    https://www.cruisemapper.com/?imo=9228186
    Read more

  • Punta Arenas

    January 13 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    After 4 "sail days" we have arrived at Punta Arenas, in Chile. The ship docked offshore and because we had a tour booked we were in town nice and early. It was raining and we visited one of the local museums before heading into the main square. The large statue is of Magellan. Then up the hill for views of the city and coffee and cake.

    The bus dropped us back at the main square where we could do some exploring. Overall a very attractive little town, completely overrun today with tourists as there were 2 cruise ships here. Overnight we sail to Ushuaia.

    Added some photo's from the evening, sailing out the Magellan Strait looked amazing.
    Read more

  • Ushuaia

    January 14 in Argentina ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Sailed overnight through the Magellan Strait and Beagle Channel. Spectacular views of the surrounding Andes. Docked at Ushuaia and went on our tour, which was catching the former convict-built railway into Tierra del Fuego National Park. A bus then took us to Ensenada Bay where there is a post office (closed) and views of the Beagle Channel. The landscape is incredible with glacial mountains, waterfalls and lush forests. Plus we had clear weather.

    Arrived back in Ushuaia and the rain started. Had a late lunch, looked at the prison, checked out the town and had a beer at the Patagonia Brewery. We now sail to Antarctica, the next big challenge is negotiating Drake's Passage.
    Read more

  • Arrived in Antarctica

    January 16, Southern Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    Crossed Drake's Passage after leaving Ushuaia. It was "Drake Lake" - meaning very calm - and after a day at sea have arrived in Antarctica. We started on the Peninsula near Booth Island. The proposed route is through the Bransfield Strait passing various places along the way. Things may change depending on weather. So far it has been wonderful, dry, clear and calm. Photo's do not do this landscape justice.Read more

  • Antarctica Day 2

    January 17, Bransfield Strait ⋅ ☀️ -3 °C

    Today we started near the UK Antarctic Trust base at Port Lockroy. They gave a talk, sold some postcards and stamps and the ship supplied them with pizza! We sailed through the Bransfield Strait with amazing scenery, lots of penguins and tonight we are near Nansen Island.Read more

  • Antarctica Day 3

    January 18, King George Island ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    From Wilhelmina Bay we sailed overnight to Deception Island then a few hours in the relatively open Bransfield Strait to Admiralty Bay on King George Island. In the Bay are glaciers, other cliffs with very little snow and a number of Antarctic bases. We explored the inlets and got very close to a large "Cathedral" iceberg, which then collapsed just after we moved away! The rock on the hill is known as The Lord of the Penguins.Read more

  • Elephant Island (Last day)

    January 19, Elephant Island ⋅ 🌬 3 °C

    Up very early as we had arrived at Elephant Island. First up we saw a small iceberg used by penguins as a stop while out feeding. Also pods of whales. We turned to the northern side of the island and reached Point Wild, where Shackleton and his crew had stayed while waiting for rescue. The is a memorial cross there and two large penguin colonies - the largest we have got close to. You can smell them before you see them.

    After we left Elephant Island, we did the Shackleton Shuffle around the ship with one of the guides, Rob. Shorts and bare feet encouraged! Then a quick dip in a hot tub.

    Off to Stanley next, it will take a full day of sailing to get there crossing back over Drake's Passage.
    Read more

  • Falkland Islands (found penguins)

    January 21 in Falkland Islands ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    After a sea day on the 20th we arrived at Stanley on the Falkland Islands. We had a private tour booked with Rob, a local who took us to various places. We started at Gypsy Cove and Yorke Bay. Unfortunately, avian flu has decimated penguin populations. Then we went to Cape Pembroke where we saw a sea lion resting in the grass. Huge creature! After that Rob took us to another beach where we saw some more penguins.

    After a bit more touring we explored Stanley and I had a pint of warm beer in an English pub. It really is a British outpost but quite charming. We now sail for 2 days to reach Montevideo in Uruguay.
    Read more

  • Montevideo, Uruguay

    January 24 in Uruguay ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After 2 days at sea we arrived in Montevideo, capital of Uruguay. We started by jumping on a hop on hop off bus to get a feel for the city. It seems broadly similar to Buenos Aires in appearance with European style buildings but is a bit more run down. That is not a criticism - this is a place where people live and work.

    We did jump off at the Centario Stadium which was built in 1929 for the 1930 World Cup. It has a tall art deco spire and is a FIFA Monument to World Football. There is also an outstanding museum there of Uruguay's Football history.

    Back into town we visited some markets (busy), ate an empanada (delicious) and walked up to the downtown (amazing architecture). Then we visited a museum and headed back to the ship - via the markets.

    Tomorrow morning we arrive in Buenos Aires and the end of the cruise - but not the end of the trip!
    Read more

  • End of the Cruise

    January 25 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    We arrived back in Buenos Aires this morning and disembarked about 11.30am. Said farewell to Heather and Bruce and made it to our hotel in the San Telmo neighbourhood. This is one of the oldest parts of the city and is still pretty grungy. Lots of character, though.

    After lunch we checked in and then Sonya and I went for a walk, hoping to visit the nearby National Historical Museum - alas it was closed. We strolled around Lezama Park and I saw an Argentinan Ford Falcon!

    Paul and Kylie had found a market so after a siesta we walked down for dinner. Watched a drumming band on the way. Found a Swiss restaurant and had a litre of beer plus some excellent food. An early night for once after 17 days of excess on the cruise.
    Read more

  • Delta Tigre Cruise

    January 26 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Today we did a boat trip from Buenos Aires to Tigre via the Rio de la Plata and the Delta. The river system is north west of Buenos Aires - some is a national park but there are also many river front homes and holiday homes. We saw many nice properties from the Rio San Antonio and Rio Sarmiento.

    Lunch in Tigre, had a bit of a look around and returned to Buenos Aires. Very warm and didn't feel like much dinner, had churros and beer. Off to Iguatzu Falls early Tuesday.
    Read more

  • Travel to Iguazu

    January 27 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    We had an early start today, leaving from the domestic airport at Buenos Aires for Iguaza. This is an organised trip, they dropped us at the very nice modern hotel and we have a free day to explore the town. It was sunny, warm and humid so after lunch we had a siesta, then a swim in the hotel's rooftop pool after the clouds rolled in.

    This area is where the border's of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay meet - in the Parana and Iguazu Rivers. Just to the left of the bridge in the first picture. There is no handy crossing into Paraguay from where we are - we'd have to go into Brazil. We will be going to the Brazilian side of the falls the day after tomorrow.
    Read more

  • Iguazu Falls - Argentina

    January 28 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    This morning we had a fairy early pick up for Iguazu Falls. It is a very busy place on the Argentinan side. We did a couple of different circuits - one to reach the top of the falls and another one with views from below. Obviously the whole complex is spectacular.

    It was another hot and humid day, so back to the hotel for a quick swim and dinner. Another busy day tomorrow with a visit to the Brazilian side of the falls and a bird park, then returning to Buenos Aires.
    Read more