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Martina Bukowska

📍 Nepal Read more
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    • Career breake 2024-2025
      Day 173–175

      🚁First steps in the Himalayas 🏔️

      May 7 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      The last few days were all about preparing for the trek. Most of the time went into planning the route (so far only same finger-on-the-map planning). Then came the shopping. Jackets, pants, hats, thermal layers, gaiters, rented sleeping bags - where we’re going, it will be cold, windy, and often wet. Luckily, Kathmandu is the kingdom of knock-offs. Almost every global outdoor brand is available here - just not quite as original.

      On top of that: medicine, snacks, electronics, insurance, flight tickets, permits. Somehow, everything fit into our backpacks.

      But getting to the trailhead is already part of the adventure. The plan was to fly to Lukla. That meant leaving at 6 a.m. for the airport, picking up our tickets, and then waiting several hours to finally hear the obvious: due to bad weather, no flights today. Tickets rebooked for tomorrow—but with no guarantee that planes would fly then, either.

      A quick search for a hotel near the airport, a soft bed, thoughts drifting toward lunch… when suddenly a call: two last seats on the final helicopter of the day, offered at the same price as the cancelled plane ticket. Grabbed our bags, ran to the terminal, waited another two hours, and finally lifted off.

      The flight over the hills of Nepal was spectacular—small villages, terraced fields, ridgelines lost in mist. Headsets on, joking with the pilot as we climbed higher into the mountains.

      From Lukla, still three more hours on foot to Phakding, partly after sunset. The trail was quiet, cool, and surprisingly crowded. At the end, a warm teahouse, and a long conversation with our Nepali hosts—about weather, the mountains, and Jerzy Kukuczka.

      The trek has officially begun🥳🫣      Read more

    • Career breake 2024-2025
      Day 169

      Monkey Temple (Swayambhunath)

      May 3 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      After a few days of preparing for our upcoming trek, we decided to take a slower day and walk to Swayambhunath – also known as the Monkey Temple. Reaching Swayambhunath, with its stupa overlooking the valley and monkeys jumping between prayer flags, felt like a reward.
      Stepping outside the tourist zone opened up a different side of the city – narrow alleys, quiet courtyards, and an unexpected calm between the chaos. Kathmandu is full of surprises, a place where temples seem to appear around every corner and where the sacred is part of daily life.

      On the way, we met a student who offered to show us a few hidden spots. He led us to some lesser-known shrines, including a small monastery run entirely by female Buddhist practitioners. He explained how religion here blends Hinduism and Buddhism, with shared gods, rituals, and festivals. It’s more fluid than expected – people pray to both Hindu deities and Buddhist icons without thinking much about the boundaries. A day full of new impressions and dusty footsteps.      Read more

    • Career breake 2024-2025
      1
      Day 163

      Patan Darbar after the quake

      April 27 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      The journey continued with a scooter ride to Patan Durbar Square. Patan, also called Lalitpur - “City of Beauty” - is known for its rich history and beautiful Newar architecture. The main square is full of ancient temples, statues, and a royal palace complex. It was nice just to sit on the window and watch the life around - people chatting, kids playing, pigeons everywhere.

      However, not everything is perfect. Stacks of bricks still lie around many corners, a reminder of the powerful earthquake in 2015 that damaged much of the Kathmandu Valley. Restoration works are ongoing, but the scars are still clearly visible.

      Later, a walk through the narrow streets around Patan showed even more of local daily life - small workshops, busy markets, hidden courtyards with shrines. It felt good to get a bit lost between the old buildings and dusty alleyways.      Read more

    • Career breake 2024-2025
      1
      Day 159–163

      Kathmandu 🇳🇵

      April 23 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Finally, we arrived in Nepal - almost the last stop of our journey. The beginning was not perfect, as a bad cold kept us in bed for a few days. After some rest and a lot of tea, it was time to get moving again. A scooter was rented and the first destination was Pashupatinath Temple.

      Pashupatinath, one of the most important Hindu temples dedicated to Shiva, is located by the Bagmati River. It is a place full of history, traditions, and emotions. The funeral ceremonies that happen daily by the riverbank are powerful to watch - open-air cremations with chanting and rituals create a deeply mystical atmosphere.

      Feeling a bit stronger, we decided to escape the city’s constant noise and headed towards Nagarkot, known for its fresh air and views of the Himalayas. The road was bumpy and dusty, and unfortunately, there was a small crash with the scooter. Scraped knees and dusty clothes, but no serious injuries - just another travel memory.

      Kathmandu itself is a true explosion of life. Narrow alleys, colorful prayer flags, the smell of spices in the air, and sounds of horns and bells everywhere. The food here is absolutely delicious - full of flavor and character. Despite the chaos, it feels welcoming and lively.      Read more

    • Career breake 2024-2025
      Day 158

      Great Wall of China 🧗‍♀️

      April 22 in China ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      To see the famous Great Wall of China, it was necessary to book a tour. The section chosen was Mutianyu, located about 70 km northeast of Beijing. This part of the wall is known for being less crowded than Badaling and for its beautiful restoration work. It was originally built in the mid-6th century during the Northern Qi dynasty, then rebuilt in the Ming dynasty to strengthen the northern defenses.

      The wall follows the ridgeline of steep hills - access would be tough without help, so the decision was to take the cable car up. The slope is serious, and the views from the top are already rewarding. The restored part is impressive: clean, solid, and winding like a stone dragon across the mountains.

      Eventually, the path reached the end of the renovated section. But it didn’t stop there. Through a window in one of the towers, it was possible to climb out onto the unrestored wall. That’s where the real experience started. Crumbled stones, overgrown steps, and silence. No tourists. That part, broken and wild, was somehow more honest. There, the Wall felt less like a monument and more like what it really is – a trace of history left on the land.      Read more

    • Career breake 2024-2025
      Day 156–158

      🐣 Easter in Beijing 🇨🇳

      April 20 in China ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      A short stay in Beijing turned out to be quite active – most of the time was spent on bicycles. Riding around the city was an experience on its own. The streets are massive, often with many lanes, and even the bike lanes are wide and often two-lane themselves. Surrounded by other cyclists and electric scooters, it felt like being part of the city’s rhythm.

      Of all the large cities visited during this trip, Beijing made the strongest impression. Its size is hard to describe – even St. Petersburg felt smaller, with narrower roads. There’s also a very visible level of control: security cameras almost everywhere, along with frequent military or police presence. But despite that, most locals seemed calm, well-organized, and quite content.

      Easter was celebrated in a local style. There was a small Easter breakfast, followed by Peking duck for dinner – a delicious highlight. Walks through the old hutong districts added a slower pace to the visit. The food was excellent throughout – dumplings, noodles, spicy sauces. Mostly, it was a time of rest and quiet moments. Beijing passed in a very Easter mood.      Read more

    • Career breake 2024-2025
      Day 154–156

      Through the Gobi Desert 🛤️

      April 18 in China ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      The train journey across the Gobi Desert to Beijing took 35 hours in total, covering a distance of around 1,500 kilometers. The route went through both Inner and Outer Mongolia-although the second one, despite its name, is fully within Chinese borders. We barely made it on time for the train. Without the help of yet another kind Mongolian, it probably wouldn’t have been possible.

      Outside the window-just desert. A wide, endless emptiness, only broken now and then by distant herds of horses, camels or sheep. Inside the train, a mix of Soviet charm and practical comfort. Fresh sheets in the bunk beds, giant thermoses filled with hot water brought by the staff, and a cheerful group of Mongolians on vacation. Time passed quickly with poker, other games, and long conversations. They introduced us to what they claimed is the best Mongolian music band in the world (The Hu). It actually wasn’t bad at all.

      Despite Maciek’s cold, the ride went by surprisingly fast. There was a strange sense of space (but only outside 😉). It was hard not to feel a bit nostalgic already. Saying goodbye to Mongolia wasn’t easy. There’s something in the way people behave here- direct, and open-that stays in the mind longer than expected.

      P.S. There was a transfer in Hohhot, capital of Inner Mongolia. The last night was on a different train, this time only with Chinese passengers. Much quieter. Slept so well I woke up straight in Beijing😴.      Read more

    • Career breake 2024-2025
      1
      Day 152–155

      🇲🇳Ulaanbataar - capital of the steppe

      April 16 in Mongolia ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

      Almost half of Mongolia’s population lives in Ulaanbaatar, and it’s clear why - despite the chaos, the city has its own rhythm. Fancy cars drive past crumbling Soviet buildings. People walk fast, dressed in a mix of streetwear and tailored coats. There’s a feeling of freedom here - no one stares, no one judges. Just motion.

      Mongolians are proud, and that pride shows in everything - from huge monuments of Chinggis Khaan to casual conversations. At its peak, the Mongol Empire reached far beyond China and Russia, all the way to Hungary and even Poland, which was invaded several times in the 13th century. History is alive here, and so is politics - people speak about it openly.

      Locals were unexpectedly warm and helpful. Twice, strangers stopped just to tell us something useful - once about a free circus show nearby, starting in a few minutes. Small moment, but memorable.

      The food is heavy - mostly meat with more meat. Vegetables seem optional at best. Street vendors sell hot dumplings and skewers, and there’s always milk tea somewhere. At Naran Tuul Market, also called the Black Market, everything from boots to saddles is sold. A bit chaotic, very local, and full of energy.

      There are downsides - traffic is constant and slow, and it’s better to keep an eye on your bag. But still, something about Ulaanbaatar sticks. The people, the contrasts, the sky. Already thinking about coming back🥰🥰🥰.      Read more

    • Career breake 2024-2025
      Day 150–152

      Horses of Mongolia 🐎

      April 14 in Mongolia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Flying in from Japan, the view from the plane gave the first taste of how vast and raw Mongolia really is. Below, the endless sands of the Gobi Desert met the sky in soft waves of color. The taxi ride from the airport into Ulaanbaatar only added to the first impressions.

      With the weather on our side, the journey properly began with a horseback ride through the Mongolian steppe. Together with our local guide, Bilgun, we left the city and drove just about an hour before reaching Terelj National Park. The park is known for its rocky formations, open landscapes and nomadic camps scattered across the valleys. At the edge of the park, we met the horse owner. The horses were already saddled—small, sturdy, and calm.

      The route took us through tiny villages, past wooden houses and gers, along a river just beginning to thaw. By late afternoon, we reached our overnight stop—a traditional ger, the round felt-covered dwelling used by nomads. Inside, wooden furniture painted in bright colors, a central stove, and thick blankets. First task: light the fire. Then dinner, tea, and silence, broken only by the wind and the occasional sound from nearby yaks. When the sun disappeared, the temperature dropped fast. Even the yaks looked tired.

      We stayed up talking with Bilgun under a large, silver moon. At some point I dozed off, and when Maciek was ready to sleep too, the fire had already died. No draft, no heat—but eventually the fire came back to life. We slept, wrapped in sleeping bags, heavy with the cold and the stars outside.

      Morning brought a short walk and some unexpected encounters—an adorable Mongolian girl, falcons hunting small animals in the grass, and horses roaming free with yaks, everywhere. It was peaceful and simple. The way back was slow, almost meditative, though the short stirrups and stiff saddles made the knees ache.

      We ended the day with a stop at the massive Chinggis Khaan Statue Complex. The statue is the tallest equestrian monument in the world—40 meters of steel, with Chinggis staring into the east from horseback. Beneath it, a small museum (visited without electricity—no lights, just echoes). A strange but fitting finish to the day.      Read more

    • Career breake 2024-2025
      Day 146

      Akihabara: Game Boy City

      April 10 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

      The day started early and a bit unexpectedly. Our camper van had to be moved - someone had clearly noticed our quiet parking spot, and staying wasn’t an option anymore. Not the best start, and it definitely affected the mood for a while. Still, we had plans.

      Next stop was Akihabara, Tokyo’s famous Electric Town. It’s a place where each building feels like its own little world. Many have six or more floors, each packed with old game consoles, rare electronics, manga, and anime merchandise. Maciek was completely in his element - pointing out Game Boys, cartridges from the ’90s, and forgotten brands. Some shops even let visitors play on retro arcade machines. The mix of neon lights, electronic sounds, and narrow escalators added to the atmosphere.

      From there, we walked to Ueno. Just outside the station, under the railway tracks, there’s a long row of stores selling clothes, bags, sneakers, and souvenirs. This area is known as Ameya-Yokochō, a market that started as a post-war black market. Now it’s full of energy - people bargaining, small bars with only four seats, fruit stands next to shops selling watches. We stopped at a Korean food stall and shared some spicy gimbap🍲.
      In the evening, the idea was to visit Asakusa and walk near the river, but rain started falling hard. Plans changed again. We went instead to the Tokyo Skytree, hoping to see the view from the top. First, a stop at the Ghibli store - full of Totoro and Spirited Away details ♥️. The last chance of the day was the observation deck, but ticket sales had just ended. A bit of a letdown. We returned to our van tired and quiet. Not everything worked out today, but at least it was still Tokyo🔥.      Read more

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