Camino Francés 2022

July - September 2022
A 41-day adventure by Laura's Adventures Read more
  • 198footprints
  • 5countries
  • 41days
  • 682photos
  • 7videos
  • 19.6kkilometers
  • 18.0kkilometers
  • Catch up with school friend

    July 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 30 °C

    I was very happy to see A, a friend from high school who lives in Madrid and prefers not to appear on any social media. It was more than 10 years since we last met, lots to catch up on over a walk and pizza!Read more

  • Memories awaken

    July 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    I'd forgotten how Madrid looks so much like Buenos Aires

  • Madrid, day of arrival

    July 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    It was such a full-on day! All flights were on schedule and I arrived at around 11 am. I took a bus to the city centre, and got a little worried: I tried to buy the ticket with my Aussie credit card and it was declined.
    I took this cc specifically for the trip and it was the first attempt to use it. Before leaving home I activated the card, and I notified the bank of my trip.
    So, I paid the bus ticket in cash. I brought some cash but not a lot, as I was planning to use the cc whenever possible.
    I couldn't get in touch with the bank, or get into the app, because there was no wifi access on the bus and I still had to get a local SIM, so I started to think of all the options I had in case I couldn't use my cc to buy the SIM. It's times like this when speaking the local language can make all the difference.
    At the SIM shop, payment didn't go through with the Wave method but it was accepted when I inserted the card in the machine and entered the PIN. That was a relief!
    Next purchase was a sandwich for lunch, and this time the Wave method worked. It has worked ever since. Felt like the card needed to warm up to the idea of being used in another country.

    I got off the airport bus at Atocha station, and from there walked 20 minutes to the hotel. That's when I was reminded of the likeness between Madrid and Buenos Aires, and took some photos.

    Next surprise: I got to the hotel at 1:30. It was very hot outside. The hotel turned out to be on the 1st floor of an old building, and the front door was closed. A bit odd, I thought. Rang the bell, no answer. Called the phone number on the door, no answer. Someone came towards the building, key in hand, and I asked if she was from the hotel. She wasn't, but let me in so I could knock on the door upstairs. There was a cleaner there, who had no idea about bookings, and she rang the person in charge, who had gone out to get lunch. She confirmed she was expecting me and would be there in 5 minutes. I was already in and away from the sun, and happy to wait. I was prepared for some kind of wait, as the usual check in time in most places is 2pm, and I was early.
    Monse arrived soon, she was lovely, showed me to my room, etc. and everything was fine. I had a small but comfortable room, with private bathroom and a fan. I didn't need anything more.
    I had a shower, organised my things, and checked with my friend A about plans for the evening. I bought bus tickets for the next 2 days, then went for a walk and something to eat.
    Later I did another walk with A. I walked about 20k total for the day, and hardly noticed it!
    I went to bed late, almost midnight. Didn't feel jet lagged at all.

    The main thing I really wanted to go according to plan, was the flights. Once here, I have lots of flexibility and I am ready to pivot anytime. The next thing I want to make is the first planned stop on the Camino, at Orisson on Saturday night. This is a small refuge where bookings are essential and hard to get, so I would very much like to make use of my booking and enjoy it.
    Even the bus tickets to get me to the start of the walk, I didn't buy until I got here, in case there were flight delays. Everything after Orisson is totally flexible and I will see how I go day by day until I get to Santiago.
    The next thing I can't miss, is getting to Berlin on 5 September to see my beautiful Evita, a.k.a. Preciosauria ❤.
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  • Leaving Madrid

    July 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    Today I had 2 things to do:
    1. Send my wheelie bag to Santiago, where it will be held for me at the post office near the cathedral, to pick up when I get there within 45 days. I had to get to a post office in Madrid to do this.
    2. Catch a bus to Pamplona, from the bus interchange at Av. America, about 5k from my hotel.

    Last night, the pizza I shared with my friend was huge. I had 2 leftover slices packed to eat today. The hotel cleaning lady put them in a fridge for me.

    I went to bed close to midnight, tossing a few options for how things would go today: which post office to go to (city or bus terminal), how to get to the terminal (uber, metro, or walking), and where to have breakfast.

    I thought I would have plenty of time to decide in the morning, and I was leaning towards walking as much as possible.

    Little did I know, I slept so well, I woke up at 9am! The possibility of going out for breakfast and then coming back to the hotel to pick up my stuff and get on my way, was discarded immediately. No time for that, if I still wanted to walk.

    I got ready and set out to walk towards the bus terminal, carrying the wheelie bag all the way. There were 2 main reasons I decided against the city post office: it was closer, but a bit out of the way; and they opened at 10am (it seemed too late, when I found out last night).

    I thought I'd get my 5k walk in before breakfast, and sit down to eat once at the terminal, as then I would know exactly how much time I had.

    I checked the route on Google Maps, memorised the first few turns, put the phone away, and started walking.

    About 15 minutes in, I was looking out for a theatre, where I had to take a right turn. No sign of it, and my road was coming to an end. I checked the map and, sure enough, I had walked past it a while back. I was off course.

    To get back on track I now had to walk towards Puerta del Sol, where the city post office was. By the time I got there, it was 10:15, so it was open, and I went in. I had to wait in a line, and it was moving slow. Deep breath... it took over half an hour, but that was the first task of the day done. I had just enough time left to walk to the bus.

    I first thought that if I could beat Google's estimated walking time by 25% I could still have some breakfast at the station. I walked past nice cafes and tempting smoothies but stopping there would mean giving up on the rest of the walk, to take a metro or taxi, and I still preferred to keep walking.

    About halfway to the station I realised there was no chance I could beat Google's estimate. I had my full backpack on, and am naturally not too fast. I still had just enough time to get there by 12, and I knew food was not allowed on the bus.

    There's a bus change after the first 2.5 hours, with a 30 minute break between the two, but I'd need to get my breakfast before then. I had only one choice: out came the 2 slices of pizza from the side of my backpack, and I ate them while walking. I made it at 11:55 😅
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  • Pamplona

    July 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After 6 hours in air conditioned buses, it was a pleasant surprise to get off at Pamplona with a cool 23°C outside.
    I did a 15 minute walk to my accommodation for the night: Albergue Plaza Catedral.

    This is a private albergue. Albergues are hostal style places, with dorm rooms, many of which are exclusively for Camino pilgrims. My room has at least 6 sets of bunk beds, almost all occupied. They had booked me for a top bunk, but there was a cancellation and I was lucky that I could take a bottom bunk instead.

    Private albergues generally cost a little more and have better facilities than public ones. This one cost me 16€ including breakfast, and is my first albergue experience, although my Camino hasn't started yet.

    Once I had my bed and left my pack, I went out to explore a bit more of the city. I am staying in the historic centre, and it gets very lively in the evening. I took lots of pics.

    I was also a bit hungry, and I stopped for food on my walk. I'm actually surprised that I lasted that long (until 7pm) with only the 2 leftover slices of pizza that I had for brunch as all my solid food until then.

    I didn't get a chance to talk to anyone at the albergue because by the time I got back, had a shower and was ready to relax, it was close to 10pm and people were already trying to sleep.
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  • Food

    July 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    For my second and last solid meal of the day, I went for a 'tortilla de patatas' (potato omelette). It was my favourite dish as a child. My mum's was better than any others I ever had, including this one. My mum's was crispier, because the potatoes were fried.

    During the walk I passed by a bakery that was the most popular shop in town. I'm sure there's good reason for it (see picture), but I wasn't going to wait in line to prove it.

    Instead, towards the end of the walk I treated myself to a small gelato for dessert. I never saw gelato served this way, like a rose (pictured).
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  • Day 1

    First night in an albergue

    July 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    There were 14 beds in my room - 7 sets of bunks.
    The pic shows the view from my bed in the morning: there's a draw curtain that helps with privacy and the lights that go on and off at any hour as each other guest goes about their business. My backpack added to that. I hung it with an S hook, which I brought based on a tip I read on the Camino forum I've been following.

    I didn't sleep the whole night though but got up at 7 feeling rested enough. Luckily snoring in the room hasn't been too bad. I brought ear plugs but couldn't find them last night. I have to get better organised.

    I got the sleeping bag and liner out, but only needed the liner. It was warm in the room, despite the cool outside.

    The albergue is very clean, the showers and toilets are plentiful and in perfect condition. I will soon make use of the kitchen for the self-service breakfast, and then will have to pack everything up again, hoping to be able to easily find what I need, when I need it.
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  • Day 1

    The most important thing

    July 23, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step"
    Chinese proverb

    This was the single step that started me on this journey. How long it will be, I don't know. How it will all go, we shall see. But I know that nothing could ever happen without that first step.Read more

  • Day 1

    Orisson

    July 23, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    It was a steep climb of about 8k from St Jean to the Orisson refuge. A little hot, but beautiful day and nowhere near the extreme heat of Madrid. The views were lovely!

    When I was getting close, I found a bunch of cows blocking the way. They were not budging, I had to walk around them.Read more