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Heading North on AT from TN

February - April 2024
A 41-day adventure by Lee Read more
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  • TravelerHeading North on AT from TN

    First Day Back on Trail

    February 24 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Jones Meadow (AT Mile Marker 297.1) to Devil’s Fork Gap (311.4).
    Daily Mileage: 14.3

    Flew back down to Asheville, NC yesterday where Shuttler extraordinaire Nate picked me up and dropped me off at the Super 8 in Erwin, TN last night. This will be my home base for the next week as it’s conveniently located in the middle of my initial 80 mile
    segment.

    Nate picked me up this morning at 7am at my hotel and we drove 45 mins south to Jones Meadows trailhead. Jones Meadows is where I left off last Spring. Traversed the Whiterock & Blackstaff Cliffs and quickly made it to Big Firescald Knob (Elev. 4,530 ft.). Somewhat cloudy and 45 degrees, but still beautiful views of the valley below (including the far away cities of Greenville, TN & Newport, TN). Rock scrambled for a few miles downhill and then climbed Big Butt Mtn. A nice, 7.4 mile rambling descent down to Devil’s Fork Gap parking area where I ended my day. 65 degrees and sunny by the end.    Read more

  • TravelerHeading North on AT from TN
    Day 2

    Day 2 of AT in TN NOBO

    February 26 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Devil’s Fork Gap Trailhead (AT Mile 311.4) to Sam’s Gap (320.0).
    Daily Mileage: 8.6

    Beautiful but chilly morning (32 degrees) that warmed up to 50 by pick up time at 1:15pm. Snowed 2 inches last night in the higher elevations which added a fun dimension to the day. Some steeper uphill in the morning with a rolling downhill to finish.Read more

  • TravelerHeading North on AT from TN
    Day 3

    Day 3 of AT in TN NOBO

    February 27 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Sam’s Gap trailhead (AT
    Mile 320.0) to Spivey Gap (333.1)
    Daily Mileage: 13.1

    Lots of variety in today’s trek. Sam’s Gap parking is right next to I-26 which heads either north towards Johnson City, TN or south to Asheville, NC. From the small parking area you head straight uphill 6 miles to the top of Big Bald Mtn (Elev. 5,500 ft). Some of the best 360 degree views on the Southern AT (see video). Was cloudy but still majestic. On the 7 mile decent to Spivey Gap parking lot, I hit the tops of Little Bald (5,100 ft) and High Rocks (4,300 ft). Met a thru hiker named Julia (see pic) and hiked with her the last 3 miles to the Gap. A 60-something gal from NW Pennsylvania and a Harvard grad, she started on Jan 13 from Springer and is averaging about 9 miles a day. We’re ahead of the hiker bubble that’s coming north quickly (but still 2-3 weeks away) and she said I was the first person she’s hiked with. Super sweet person and a lot of fun to talk to. She hiked on today while I’m taking a zero day, so I’ll see her again up the road as we get closer to Roan Mountain.Read more

  • TravelerHeading North on AT from TN
    Day 5

    Day 4 of AT in TN NOBO

    February 29 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Spivey Gap (333.1) to Uncle Johnny’s Hostel (344.5)
    Daily Mileage: 11.4

    A beautiful day! A chilly 26 degree start at 7:30am and started climbing for the first 2.5 miles. Then enjoyable rolling flat to downhill all the way into Erwin. The trail drops you out of the woods right at Uncle Johnny’s Hostel & Outfitter and the rollicking Nolichucky River. Had seen UJ’s for years on everyone’s YouTube videos, so had to stop in. Spoke to “Mountain Drew” in the shop for a while. Just as I was leaving, I saw Julia from 2 days ago who had decided to take a zero day today after the torrential rains of yesterday. She stayed over night at UJ’s last night and will do so again tonight. I will probably hike with her some in the coming days.Read more

  • TravelerHeading North on AT from TN
    Day 6

    Day 5 of AT in TN NOBO

    March 1 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

    Uncle Johnny's Hostel (344.5) to Indian Grave Gap (352.9)
    Daily Mileage: 8.4

    A cloudy and cold (42 degrees all day) start (7:15am) with a mostly uphill 5.5 mile climb from Uncle Johnny’s & the Nolichucky River up to 3,200 ft. Rain/ice starting falling with very strong winds around 9am that continued the rest of the day. Was intentionally a lower mileage day based on the weather and the fact that the next pick up point would’ve made for a 20 mile day in tough conditions. Steve from Unicoi Shuttle picked me up at Indian Grave Gap (1 pm) and brought me back to downtown Erwin to the Steel Rails Coffee House. Man did that hot coffee hit the spot!Read more

  • TravelerHeading North on AT from TN
    Day 8

    Day 6 of AT in TN NOBO

    March 3 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    Indian Grave Gap (352.9) to Iron Mountain Gap (364.9)
    Daily Mileage: 12.0

    Started ascending right out of Indian Grave Gap (3,400 ft) parking lot at 7:30am. 50 degrees and eerie dense fog. You could tell the day would warm up quickly.

    The trail was lined initially with rhododendrons, azaleas, and mountain laurel all the way to Beauty Spot at 4,300 ft.

    Once above the fog level after 45 minutes or so, the cloudless sky was crystal clear and the cloud inversion/fog views of the valley below were nothing short of amazing (see pics & videos).

    Enjoyed FaceTiming Karina from Beauty Spot so that I could share the beautiful overlooks and scenery.

    North out of Beauty Spot and headed up to the top of Unaka Mountain (5,200 ft Elev.). Halfway up, the landscape changed quickly to a forest of young Eastern/Red Spruce, Hemlocks and immense amounts of moss. I felt right at home.

    The last 6.4 miles of the day was mostly descending ridge-running towards today’s exit point of Iron Mountain Gap. Passed Cherry Gap Shelter on the way. A nice 6-person shelter in an idyllic setting.    Read more

  • TravelerHeading North on AT from TN
    Day 9

    Day 7 of AT in TN NOBO

    March 4 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Iron Mtn Gap (364.9) to Carver’s Gap (380.9)
    Daily Mileage: 16.0

    Dropped off at Iron Mon Gap at 7:15 by G-Man who works for Steve (Unicoi Shuttling). A bluebird day, crisp and clear and 45 degrees to start heading uphill from the Gap.

    Summited Iron Mtn and Little Rock Knob before crossing Hughes Gap to begin the climb up Roan.

    Rustled up 2 grouse halfway up Roan Mtn and did they make quite the scene. They were not happy!

    Quite the climb up Roan Mtn to end the day. The second highest peak (6,285) on the AT after Clingman’s Dome (6,643) in the Smokey Mtns just south of here.

    The last 1.5 hrs of the climb was all jagged rock slab formations and there was ice on the ground in the shady crevices of the trail.

    At the top of Roan Mtn sits the remnants of the legendary Cloudland hotel. Built in 1885 by a Union General, it was a 166 room structure used by the wealthy to get away from the oppressive summertime heat in the lowlands. By 1915, maintenance became too difficult due to the harsh weather and high elevation, so the hotel was abandoned. The only items that remain today are 2 stone fireplaces and the foundation of one wall (see pics).

    Hiked the 2.5 miles down the backside of Roan to the Carver’s Gap parking area.    Read more

  • TravelerHeading North on AT from TN
    1
    Day 10

    Day 8 of AT in TN NOBO

    March 5 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Carver's Gap (380.9) to US 19E Mountain Harbour (395.3).
    Daily Mileage: 14.4

    A totally different hiking experience today vs yesterday, even though it’s just across Carver’s Gap. Roan Mtn was like hiking through a pine forest in the Rocky Mtns out west, and today was trekking up and over steep, treeless balds that looked like something out of The Sound of Music.

    Without trees, and at 5,600 ft, you could see the largest mtns in NC on one side, and the largest in TN on the other. It made for an amazing 360 degree panorama (see pics & video).

    Didn’t see any other hikers yesterday or today. Almost surreal that I had that much beauty all to myself.

    After 9 miles of traversing Little Bald & Big Bald, I had a 5.5 mile descent into the village of Roan Mtn, TN where I was able to walk the 0.2 miles to Mountain Harbour Hostel and B&B. Got in at 5pm right before the forecasted bad rain storm hit.

    As we are ahead of the “hiker bubble” going north, most of these hostels and B&B’s are in the process of opening for the season. There was only 1 other hiker at Mountain Harbour last night and we enjoyed eating dinner together and conversation over a nice Tennessee IPA!    Read more

  • TravelerHeading North on AT from TN
    Day 12

    Day 9 & 10 of AT in TN NOBO

    March 7 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    US 19E Mountain Harbour
    (395.3) to Upper Laurel Fork Tent Area (408.4)
    Daily Mileage: 13.1

    Day 9 was a zero day spent in rainy Roan Mountain, TN

    On Day 10, I left Mountain Harbour at 8:45 and walked 0.2 back up 19E and was back on Trail by 9am.

    At the 4 mike mark, I saw Bob Peoples, Tim (Mountain Squid) and 2 others chainsawing blowdowns on the trail. Bob is an AT Hall of Famer and a true trail legend (see pics & I recommend Googling him. What a life of adventure he’s led!). Had a wonderful conversation with them for 20 minutes. Found out from Bob that Julia was just 20 mins up trail ahead of me.

    Caught up to Julia by mile 6 and then she and I came upon Turbo (@ 62 yrs old) & Tie Dye (@58 yrs old), 2 of Bob’s crew, chainsawing at mile 7. Had a great 20 min conversation with them.

    Tented with Julia along the raging Laurel Fork Creek. Great conversation and to bed by 7:45pm. Wonderful sounds from the creek that was rushing with the last 2 days worth of rains. Put me right to sleep.    Read more

  • TravelerHeading North on AT from TN
    Day 13

    Day 11 of AT in TN NOBO

    March 8 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Upper Laurel Fork
    Tent Area (408.4) to Laurel Falls Trailhead US 321 (423.1)
    Daily Mileage: 14.7

    Left the tent site at 9am right after Cyn City stopped to talk to us for a while as she was walking past and we were breaking down camp. Cyn is a 20-something from Florida who started thru hiking north on Jan. 23rd. I first met her a day or so ago at Mountain Harbour.

    Passed Hardcore Cascades (410.9) at 10:30 (see pic & video). This spot was named after the aforementioned Bob Peoples and his volunteer work group known as the “Hard Core” crew who I met and stopped to talk to yesterday.

    Spent a very rainy night tenting at the Laurel Fork shelter area.    Read more

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