Italy 2022

June 2022
AKA Matt and Katie’s Second Honeymoon
  • 22footprints
  • 2countries
  • 10days
  • 272photos
  • 11videos
  • 5.2kmiles
  • 4.5kmiles
  • Day 1

    Amsterdam Airport

    June 17, 2022 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Quick stop in Amsterdam. Almost didn’t get through customs because Katie didn’t keep quiet as instructed. Thoroughly confused the eager customs agent. Classic.

  • Day 1

    Day 1, Part 1/3— Portait and Sostanza

    June 17, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    WE HAVE ARRIVED!! Once we got to Florence, we checked into our hotel, the Portrait, which is part of the Lungarno collection, owned by Ferragamo. https://www.lungarnocollection.com/portrait-fir… . The toilet paper and toilet brush are housed behind their own little doors in the bathroom. So chic! There’s also a tiny dishwasher, a fridge and a microwave in the room. It’s a whole *now you see it, now you don’t* kitchenette. I’m in love!!

    Immediately after check in, we headed to lunch at Trattoria Sostanza (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g… ) for salty Parma ham with sugar sweet melon, tortellini en brodo, butter chicken (lightly egg battered, cooked in brown butter and finished with lemon— sopping up that sauce with the bread… heaven!!!) and artichoke pie (swirly soft eggs with fresh braised artichoke hearts). It was both delightful and delicious. I did they ordering and it made our waiter highly uncomfortable, in this male dominated culture! He kept checking with Matt to make sure he was ok with everything I ordered and that we were indeed sharing.
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  • Day 1

    Day 1, Part 2/3– Tour highlights

    June 17, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    After lunch, we went back to the hotel to meet our tour guide, Laura, who took us to see some of the highlights of the city including he Galleria Academia (where the David lives), the Piazza de la Signora, and the Ufizi. We filled up our water bottle at a local fountain and learned that they offer both both still AND sparkling water, which is a basic human right here in Italy, She told us only to eat at gelaterias that say “artigianale”, meaning it’s made in site. She also told us that restaurants these days are much better that they were 10-15 years ago bc everyone is chasing those good reviews!!Read more

  • Day 1

    Day 1, Part 3/3— Appertivo & Dinner

    June 17, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 91 °F

    After our tour, we headed back to the hotel to freshen up and have two very serviceable espresso martinis in the hotel bar. What better to help fight the jet lag?? For appertivo they served the BEST little crackers called “Taralli”. I hope to bring a lot home in my suitcase! Matt’s phone stopped working and he completely lost it.

    Next, it was on to an adorable natural wine bar called Vineria Sonora (https://www.vineriasonora.it). This was about a 17 min walk from our hotel, in a much more residential area. The place was incredible and I think we convinced the main server to come do a pop up in Detroit. I bought a tote bag, obvi.

    For dinner, we went to Casa Ciabattini, also off the beaten path. https://casaciabattini.it We had a beautifu octopus salad and stuffed squash blossoms to start, followed by ricotta and spinach gnudi, tagliatelle al ragu, eggplant tortellini with burrata cream (pure eggplant flavor, divine), double cooked pork, and braised beef. We walked home (about 10 miles total, just since 1pm!), showered and hit the sack!
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  • Day 2

    Day 2, Part 1/3— Gucci Garden & Panini

    June 18, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    Today we woke up and had breakfast at the hotel. I mean, what’s better than an Italian “continental” breakfast? Delicious Bellini, charcuterie, fresh bread and pastries— divine! I actually also ate a salad, for health reasons. After breakfast, we walked to Ditta Artigianale, a coffee shop Matt has been talking about for months. He proceeded not to get anything, and then we walked over to Gucci Garden. https://www.gucci.com/it/it/st/stories/inspirat… Gucci Garden is an experience unique to Florence, where Gucci originated. There’s a cafe, a museum and a shop with exclusive items that aren’t sold anywhere else— including THE INTERNET. The museum was VERY cool, taking you behind the scenes of some of the most famous Gucci campaigns of the past 20 years. I found a bag I just HAD to have… see pics and you’ll understand!!

    Today was kind of a double lunch day. We headed over to SandwiChic to try some of Florence’s famous panini. https://m.facebook.com/sandwichic/ There are other places that have lines down the street, and I KNOW there are MANY great sandwiches in Florence but these were UNREAL. We got the salame and pecorino sandwich on “pane”, which is a flatter, almost cakey bread and the prosciutto cotto with truffle spread on the “schiacciata” which looks thick, like a focaccia, but is so light, it melts in your mouth. Nothing like the dense and chewy bread you’d expect from the visual. We walked around the back roads of Florence, dipping in and out of shops and grabbed some gelato at La Strega Nocciola. Yogurt flavor got a 10/10. https://www.lastreganocciola.it/
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  • Day 2

    Day 2, Part 2/3— Cooking Class

    June 18, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    After first lunch, we continued on our walking tour of the Firenze residential streets. We saw so much beautiful architecture. Everywhere you look is something that makes you go, omg! Finally, we made our way back to Ditta Artigianale and Matt got a macchiato fredo, which he loved. The parks along the Arno River have all these kiosks set up that sell wine, beer, cocktails and food. It’s beyond cute, so of course we had to partake as we moseyed our way down to Giglio Cooking School for an all pasta cooking class. Actually, at first we were supposed to make two pastas and a gnocchi… but we mixed the gnocchi in favor of another pasta, which was a great decision. With our fabulous instructor, Isabella, we made garganelli primavera, spinach ricotta ravioli and tagliatelle pesto. I feel ready to open my own pastaficio. Come on down!Read more

  • Day 2

    Day 2, Pt 3/3– Activities and Dinner

    June 18, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    After the carb fest, we decided we needed a physical challenge. We hiked up to the Piazzale Michaelangelo for the best view of the city. Walking back, we were on the other side of the River most of the way and it was a whole ‘nother vibe, which we loved! We finally made it back and headed to Hosteria Ganino (https://www.hosteriaganino.it) for dinner. One thing I love about Italy is that there’s no rush. They don’t want to let us put in apps when we order cocktails, let alone make us order all at once. How barbaric we are in the States!! They forcibly remove my menu between courses. I love it. Tonight we had Bistecca alla fiorentina and it was one of the best non-pasta meals I’ve ever had. Perfect roasted waxy potatoes, grilled veggies and the most amazing steak, served simply with a pile of rock salt on the board. My only regret is not eating more. After dinner, it was a quick stop at Vineria Sonora and, due to Matt’s chafing, a cab home for bed!Read more

  • Day 3

    Day 3, Part 1/3– Wine Tasting

    June 19, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Woke up to another lovely hotel breakfast. Today I really only ate a DIY caprese… I was getting kind of full! In fact, I couldn’t eat again until about 7:00pm. I guess everyone has their limit! But as I write this, I’m gearing up for dinner. Anywhoo. We met our driver Antonio and set off for Poggio Amorelli, a small, family-run, low intervention winery in the heart of Chianti Classico. https://famigliamazzarrini.it/en/ Chianti Classico is a very small, specific region in Tuscany. Only wines made with at least 80% Sangiovese (though theirs is 100%) and aged in the region, including at least three months aging in the bottle can be called Chianti Classico. These wines will always be marked with a specific picture of a rooster, seen below, so you’ll know you’re getting the real deal. We tried a Vermentino, that they make on the coast, a sparkling rosé, also from their costal vineyards, the Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Reserva, and a super Tuscan, as well as their proprietary olive oil and balsamic vinegars, aged between 10 and 36 years. Of course we sent some bottles home, so you’re all invited over for a tasting in 20-30 business days!Read more

  • Day 3

    Day 3, Part 2/3– Tuscany and Shopping

    June 19, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    After the winery, we took a quick stop in a beautiful Tuscan town called Panzano. There was a lovely open air market, cute shops and more wine. We stopped in an outpost of another Tuscan winery called Vecchie Terre Di Montefili and were treated to a tasting (which we paid for) by a lovely, middle-aged polish gentleman who is just doing a quick jaunt as a wine expert in Tuscany… must be nice! The wine was wonderful. Still ate no food. Again, not hungry since yesterday. Next we headed to the Mall Firenze, an outlet mall of only luxury designer stores. It *was* very cool to see these super intricate pieces up close and even try some on, but overall, I wouldn’t say it was my favorite shopping experience. Matt, however, bought several items, so I am happy about that. From the mall, we drove back into the city, approx 45 min. The drives were the best part of the day, with all the amazing Tuscan scenery. As most basic bitches are, I am totally obsessed with the whole cypress tree/villa situation. It’s so gorgeous. I will never tire of it.Read more

  • Day 3

    Day 3, Part 3/3– Happy Hour and Dinner

    June 19, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    We got back, dropped the bags and of course headed back out for the appertivo hour. We walked across the bridge to get a little different scenery and found several cool new pockets to enjoy. We stumbled up a very cool makers market and got a drink in the Piazza Santo Spirito at Trattoria Borgo Antico (http://www.borgoanticofirenze.com/en). All of the food looked amazing, so we did get one thing— a huge bowl of mussels, clams and langoustine. Sooo good. After a bit more walking, and a quick stop at the hotel for a shower and an espresso martini, it was off to dinner at La Giostra (https://ristorantelagiostra.com/en/). We met a couple named Kevin (half Jewish, very into moon cycles) and Elizabeth (self-made world traveler, from a trailer park, super inspiring) and chatted with them throughout the meal. They actually took home our leftovers, which obviously THRILLED ME. We indulged in a eggplant/zucchini carpaccio, mache salad with oranges and pecorino, rigatoni rosso with fresh mozzarella, a piquant pear and pecorino ravioli and bistecca fiorentina. Oh we also had a tiramisu and warm ricotta cheesecake with red fruit for dessert. The tiramisu was a bit too rich but the cheesecake was unreal. For me, the steak last night was better but I did really enjoy the atmosphere of La Giostra. If I had to pick one, I would go back to Hosteria da Ganino. After a quick exchange of IG handles, and some hugs, it was off to bed! Travel day tomorrow!

    General thoughts on Italy so far:
    -I thought there would be WAY more American tourists. Our driver today assured us that there are plenty, but most of the tourists seem to be Italian!

    -99.9% of the children we’ve seen have been asleep in a stroller. Idk if it’s the heat or what, but it seems like Florentine children sleep about as much as OUR children… maybe more!

    -Florence definitely gets busier on the weekends, but it still doesn’t seem THAT busy. Really only two streets are kind of busy, and even then, not PACKED. Maybe Rome will be different, but it seems like you can pretty much get a seat anywhere you want to go within a reasonable amount of time and it’s just not overly crowded in general. Most of the streets we walk on are more or less empty. Oh, also, there are NO CARS. Pretty much every street is just pedestrians. Apparently that is new since the pandemic, but it’s pretty useless to have a car here. On most of the streets in the city center, only cars with a special license are allowed to drive there. It’s like weird when you actually see a car. In retrospect, us getting a cab last night was an actual divine miracle.

    -I really need to know what time restaurants close here. Tonight was the first time we shut a joint down and it was 12:30. However, we walked by many people who seemed to just be starting their meal on our way home. Like, what’s the latest I can show up?? IS THERE A TIME??
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