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Darling River 2024
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Darling River 2024

A solo kayak trip down the Darling River starting at Brewarrina NSW and finishing at Renmark SA (if I have the energy) or Wentworth (if I don't). The journey is about 1900 kms and should take about +/- 9 weeks. Read more
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  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Possibly a bunyip??
    Willy wagtail - always a favourite!Early morning on the river. Best part of the dayHard to see, but I think it's a type of hawk. Lots of them aroundDerelict buildings at Billilla StationThe algae is back in full force

    Day 26

    March 5, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    721 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    A couple of long days paddling. Very quiet with no one around which is situation normal up here. Large numbers of goats, with herds of at least 50 compared to the 20 or so I have seen upstream. The riverbanks are stripped of anything green, and dry and dusty. I'm no farmer, but it looks like they are overstocked to me. It coincided with a big increase in the algae too, so perhaps they are related.
    I have found a station on the map called Nelia Gaari a couple of days downstream. They have camp facilities and showers!! Definitely a stopover.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    This mornings sunrise
    Interesting red riverbanks in this sectionMy pelican escort heading off for their next stage1Still plenty of trees beyond the river. Not bad for an annual rainfall of about 250mm

    Day 27

    March 6, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 37 °C

    684 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    Paddling, paddling and more paddling! This is a long stretch of about 300 kms between Wilcannia and Menindee. Hopefully I'll make it to Nelia Gaari Station tomorrow for a shower and some maintenance on the kayak.
    Just finished listening to Jock Zonfrillo's autobiography on audiobook. A very interesting life to put it mildly, particularly with the Adelaide connection.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    One of the few windmills that are still functional
    1A massive snag. Fortunately enough room to sneak past1My native fishcheat sheetA poor picture of a silver perch

    Day 28

    March 7, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    640 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    This section of the river is under the influence of the Menindee weir, even though it is about 120 km downstream. That means the river level is higher than it would be naturally and that there is minimal current. That made the 44km paddle into Nelia Gaari Station an all day ordeal. Greg, who with Lily runs the station, was very helpful and showed me how to get to the campsites which were a bit further down river, and it was only me and another grey nomad couple camping there. A couple of hours later he came over in his ute with his 3 dogs and gave me an esky with 4 ice cold beers! We had a nice chat for an hour or so. Fantastic country hospitality!
    On another note, I have noticed all the dead fish I have seen (20 - 30 in total maybe) all seem to be the same size, about 40cm, and species. My cheat sheet on native fish shows they could be silver perch?? Maybe their capacity to live in low oxygenated water is not as good as other species. Interestingly the pelicans swim right past them even though they look as though they have just died. For further research...
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    3Sunrise
    1The kayak all pristine againNelia Gaari ablution block14 showers here today!The challenging first hole at Nelia Gaari2Free club hire!1The beautiful campground. Really well planned and executedTonight's beer delivery. Only 2 left!

    Day 29

    March 8, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    640 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    A nice relaxing day at Nelia Gaari Station doing some much needed maintenance on the kayak, clothes washing and sorting out my gear. I also had 4 showers today, making up for lost time after a month without one. It was only water pumped straight from the river, but it felt fantastic!
    The hospitality shown by Greg and Lily was quite extraordinary. Greg dropped an egg and bacon roll into me this morning after I told him how much I enjoyed the one in Wilcannia, more beers were delivered tonight, then a KFC meal which Lily had brought back from her trip to Broken Hill today! All this quite unbidden and highly embarrassing. They only wanted $20 for the 2 nights which was ridiculous. I gave them considerably more than that which they were very reluctant to accept.
    A,great experience in country hospitality, and we agreed to keep in touch.
    3 or 4 more days to Wilcannia, then it's the start of the home stretch.
    Problems with the mobile tower around d here apparently, which is why these posts are delayed.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Sunrise at Nelia Gaari
    1An elaborate staircase. Not sure about the battery..Virtually no riverbank nowSuper clear water.... sort of

    Day 30

    March 9, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    591 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    An early start this morning, up at 6.30 and on the river by 7.30 which worked well as I got 30 kms or so done in the cool of the morning. The only downside is packing up in the semi darkness and warding off the mozzies which don't disappear until after dawn.
    As the topography slopes very gently towards Menindee and the water is basically flat due to the weir, the riverbanks get lower and lower until at Menindee you are in a series of lakes. The slower current also means the water becomes clearer as more soils drop out. Visibility here is about 10cm compared to basically zero up to now.
    Still very hot, 38 or 39 forecast for the next few days.
    No internet for the last few days which has been rather frustrating. First world problem I suppose!
    Hope everyone is well back in the big smoke.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Relatively clear water for the Darling!
    Beautiful cliffs in the early morning lightJust chillin'You can't see them, but hundreds of pelicans soaring on a thermalTandure Lake with its thousands of birdsNow that's a weir!

    Day 31

    March 10, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    546 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    A long, long paddle into the massive Menindee main weir. The river level just kept getting higher and higher approaching the weir until there was no possibility of a campsite, so I just had to keep going until I reached the weir.
    The Menindee Lakes is a man made system built in the 1960’s to provide a secure water supply to Broken Hill as well as the locals. Unfortunately I didn't get to paddle across the bigger lakes (Menindee and Cawndilla) as they are away from the Darling, but from what I could see they are teeming with birdlife. Onto Menindee tomorrow and all the joys of civilisation!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Sunrise at Menindee main weir
    The first Ibis seen so farSeveral of these monitoring stations coming into MenindeeThe first housboatThe bridge for the Orange to Broken Hill railwayMy campsite under the picnic shelter complete with pet goatMaidens HotelThe front bar before it got much much busier!

    Day 32

    March 11, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    520 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Pooncarie

    A portage around the Menindee main weir this morning, then a 25 km or so paddle into Menindee which apparently was the first main town on the Darling River and the town which Burke and Wills stayed at before heading into the outback. I had my dinner (Caesar salad with chicken) at the Maidens Hotel as did Burke and Will's over 150 years before.
    Menindee appears to be a nice, quiet and safe little town, strangely without the fine old buildings that Wilcannia has.
    The Menindee bridge caravan park where I am staying has been let go a little to put it mildly. No-one on the Office, the ablution block very decrepit and a very inquisitive goat who seems very interested in all my gear!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    The resident lawn mower. A,sheep (obviously) not a Goat!
    Really well maintained war memorialOne of the very few noteworthy buildings in Menindee. Built by the pub owners, the Maidens!In case you're not sure what river you're on!!Lots of nice riverside houses downstream from MenindeePretty sure it's a male!Weir 32 downstream of Menindee. The portage was over the rocks on the right (thx NSWWater)

    Day 33

    March 12, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    491 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Pooncarie

    Had a nice chat with the 80 year old bloke who runs the caravan park. Has lived in Menindee since the 1970's and spent most of his working life as a shearer in the area. He had quite thoughtful opinions on many of the challenges up here. Funny how country people sprinkle the conversation with the f word, but somehow it doesn't really seem like swearing!
    Had a tradies breakfast of Farmers Union iced coffee and an egg and bacon roll at the Red sands Cafe which was terrific. Called into the Menindee op shop to try and buy some shoes as I am fed up with slipping and sliding on the muddy banks in crocs or thongs. Sadly nothing in my size.
    Had a portage around the lower Menindee weir this afternoon, which was relatively painless given the assistance of a couple of NSW Water workers who helped carry the kayak.
    The river is flowing nicely in this section, more kangaroos than goats or sheep which makes a change, and the water is still a green colour compared to the brown colour upstream of Menindee weir. I don't think it's algae, it's just more like the River Murray water. When the brown water is clarified with alum the sludge settles to the bottom, when the green water is clarified, the solids float to the top and there is basicallyno brown on the bottom. Organic material maybe?? Quite interesting.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Sunrise
    Amazing watching this goat amble up the near vertical section towards the top of the riverbankBrought back memories of the Murrumbidgee!A shady lunch spot on the green DarlingA very narrow section of river, barely 15m wide, at tonight's camp

    Day 34

    March 13, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 36 °C

    445 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Pooncarie

    A long day's paddle with temperature still in the high thirties. Super isolated with only a couple of homesteads passed on the riverbank. A couple of big flocks of sheep, otherwise mainly kangaroos, emus and a few wallaroos which has been nice to see.
    Still a bit worried about the green water. It doesn't clarify very well with the alum, so I’m sure it won’t be long before the filter blocks up. I had ordered a replacement cartridge and picked it up in Menindee so hopefully that will see me through.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Lots of big sandbanks around here
    Tolarno Station where Kata McBride lives (author of 'Call of the river')View of the river from Tolar o Staton (I climbed the riverbank!)One ofthe millions of carp which infest the riverWas trying to work out what this was. Couldn't work it out...Not sure what this animal was. Slightly bigger than a native water rat

    Day 35

    March 14, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    405 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Pooncarie

    Much cooler today with a maximum of 35, and cooler again tomorrow, unfortunately accompanied by southerly winds which try and blow me backwards! Nice to get some mobile coverage in the middle of nowhere.
    Should be finished in 10 or 11 days if I can keep up the 40km days.
    Despite all my fears of snake bites, sprained ankles, dysentery and other disasters, touch wood there have been no issues whatsoever so far. Feeling very lucky!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    1The start of the Great Darling Anabranch. Currently dry due to low flows in the main riverSome magnificent sandstone cliffs in this sectionHumans! Seemed quite friendly.

    Day 36

    March 15, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    355 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Pooncarie

    Perfect conditions today, low 30's, overcast, not much wind and a light drizzle to keep cool. Managed to get to the 50 km daily distance today which I always hope to achieve at least once each trip. Happy with that!
    I had been thinking my instant coffee sachets that I have each morning had gone off. The milk was separating, and I have had to tip the last few cups out. I have now figured out that I was putting in too much alum when I clarify the water and some was getting through the filter and 'clarifying' the coffee. Reduced the alum back to half a teaspoon and the coffee is now fine! Interesting, if a bit nerdy!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    1
    An old outbuilding at Wicklow StationGood to see asolar powered pumpLots of majestic old river redgums in this section of river

    Day 37

    March 16, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    314 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Pooncarie

    Packed up camp in the rain this morning which is always a bit miserable, but the cooler weather made for a pleasant days paddle.
    Tonight when I opened up the drybag I keep the food in, the contents were saturated. Very odd as the storage compartments in the kayak are pretty watertight. Turns out a full plastic container of cordial had split and saturated everything with cordial. Absolute mess and everything in the bag had to be rinsed in the river and dried. Lesson learnt!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    What a perfect craft for cruising the river!3A native water rat (I think)My first fish. A carp, humanely despatched

    Day 38

    March 17, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    274 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Pooncarie

    Another long but pleasant days paddling, with overcast skies and light rain most of the day. Onto Pooncarie tomorrow with the promise of cold beer, hot food and internet coverage. Missing my daily fix of news and weather. First world problem I know!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Early morning mist on the river
    A classic Darling scene. A wide bend in the river, pelicans in the water, sheep on the bank1Lots of magnificent redgums in this sectionWords of wisdom on the wall of the pub!Bird on a wireMy campsite where the old wharf loading area used to be

    Day 39

    March 18, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    231 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wentworth

    Made it into Pooncarie after a long paddle with the current slowly dropping away to nothing due to the effect of the Pooncarie weir. In fact I went past Pooncarie by a kilometre or so as there was absolutely no visible sign of the town from the river!
    I'm always nervous about pitching the tent in a town and leaving it unattended, but as usual there was no issue, with Pooncarie (population currently 40) being a very pleasant place.
    Went to the pub for dinner and had a couple of beers and a pizza which went down a treat.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    The Port PitstopKatieKatie's Dad and Jack Russell Cross BonnyA trailer load of goats.The Darlin bridge at PooncarieThe weir. The first one with warning buoys

    Day 40

    March 19, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    210 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wentworth

    Went to the Port Pitstop in Pooncarie for breakfast and to top up supplies. As is usual in these small towns, I was the only one there and had a good chat to the Owner, Katie. She has lived in the area all her life and was a great source of information on the bridges and weirs down to Wentworth, blue green algae alerts, drinking water, the price of goats and much more. Her father came in while I was there and as his house was right behind where I was camping, offered to fill my containers with rainwater. Very kind. He too has lived in the area all his life and when we saw a water rat (sorry Pete, 'rakali' ) in the river, said he used to trap them as a lad and get paid one pound per skin!
    Portage around the Pooncarie weir was pretty painless, taking less than an hour. A record!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Nice shack c/w pizza oven!
    Unidentified ducks. I could get quite close to them as if they were domesticated birds which escapedThe old weir. I floated the kayak around the right hand edgeThe road bridge.4Hard to believe the locals,still use this bridge!3Tonight's camp.

    Day 41

    March 20, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    174 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wentworth

    Windy last night with a strong southerly wind and this morning was the first time this trip I felt cold. I had my beanie on until lunchtime when the sun finally started to shine.
    There seem to be more Stations and shacks in this area, dotted regularly along the riverbank, maybe because it is getting closer to bigger population centres like Mildura and Renmark.
    Two obstacles to navigate today, an old weir and a very low bridge. With the weir, (the 10th so far this trip), I was able to float the kayak around the edge of the weir without having to unload it, and I was able to drag the kayak up the beach, over the road and down the other side. Have a look at the bridge in the photos. Still used regularly by the look of it!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    A fox going for an early morning drink
    Limestone cliffs reminiscent of the Murray becoming more frequent1I have seen lots of these tiny little birds along the riverbank the whole trip. Not sure what specieSpectacular riverbankAnother bridge. Plenty of clearance thankfully1An echidna. Recognised it from the 5 cent piece!Burgundy weir in front of the bridge. No signs, no buoys. Super dangerous!Dragged the kayak around the weir here. Only a 50m portageTonight's excellent campsite

    Day 42

    March 21, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    130 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wentworth

    Another cold night and cool morning which had me shivering while packing up camp. One good thing about cool days is you don't drink as much water, and the 4L of water I make lasts 2 days, saving time on the second day where I was able to breakfast and be on the water in 45 minutes. A record!
    A very nice stretch of river around here despite the navigational challenges. Interesting rock formations, lots of sandy beaches for camping, interesting shacks and lots of birds and animals.
    A couple of bridges to negotiate, both of which were thankfully high enough that I just had to duck my head. Went through Burtundy weir which I think is the final one before Wentworth.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Sunrise this morning
    Another fox.A giant snag I was just able to gather pastA water slide (I think)A very big feral cat.A ram being harassed by 3 tiny feral dogs!5The first swan I've seen

    Day 43

    March 22, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    88 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wentworth

    Cold again last night. Had to get up at 3am this morning to swap my t shirt for a thermal top and woolen socks. It warmed up mid morning though and become a beautiful day.
    More and more civilisation seen today. A few people camping on the bank, buildings at regular intervals and the distant sound of traffic. I think this is a citrus growing area as the river level is controlled by the River Murray weir at Wentworth and doesn't suffer the regular drying up of the river like the rest of the Darling does. Lots more pumps too, presumably to irrigate the orchards.
    The green algae slick is back again, after having been absent since Menindee. Fertiiser runoff maybe?? Interestingly I haven't seen a dead fish since Menindee.
    Hope to make it to Wentworth in 2 days, a day early before my rendezvous with Claire on Tuesday.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    A full width snag I just managed to squeeze throughThe first willow trees seen for the entire tripStill plenty of goatsThis was quite mesmerising to watch. Some sort of filter I think

    Day 44

    March 24, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    45 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wentworth

    A real mixture today of sheep, goats, shacks, nice houses, people fishing in tinnies, lots of big pumps, numerous private property signs on the riverbank and even a couple of houseboats. Looking very much like te Murray! The serenity is well and truly gone.
    A big final 45km push tomorrow with no current and a headwind to get to the finish line at Wentworth.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Interesting trees at last night's camp
    A massive pump station for vineyard irrigationOne of the many spectacular houses coming into WentworthWentworth bridge. The finish line!

    Day 45

    March 24, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Job done. Basically from top to bottom of NSW at 6 km/h!
    It has been a challenging trip being so isolated, but it really is a magnificent river, full of wildlife, birds, and interesting towns and people.
    My worries of snakebites, broken limbs, lost or stolen gear etc were completely unfounded, and everything went remarkably smoothly. It also goes to show you can survive for 6 weeks with only 2 showers, 2 T-shirts, one pair of shorts and sleeping on an inflatable sleeping mat!
    Home tomorrow thanks to Claire who as usual is kindly picking me up.
    Thanks to everyone who has shown interest in my trip. It was always good to have that connection back to civilisation.
    Mark    Read more

    Trip end
    March 26, 2024
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