Darling River 2024

February - March 2024

A solo kayak trip down the Darling River starting at Brewarrina NSW and finishing at Renmark SA (if I have the energy) or Wentworth (if I don't). The journey is about 1900 kms and should take about +/- 9 weeks. Read more

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Traveler Darling River 2024
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- Feb 19, 2024, 7:19pm
- ⛅ 35 °C
- Altitude: 88 m
- Australia New South Wales Bourke -30.637569, 144.93933230°38’15” S 144°56’22” E
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Day 12
Day 11
February 19 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C
1285 kms to Wentworth
Next town: Louth

Still very hot and still very quiet. Haven't seen anyone else on the river in nearly 400kms of paddling. Definitely have the river to myself!
Another exhausting 2 hour portage around the Louth weir this morning. Thank goodness the kayak is very robust, having to pull it up the riverbank with a rope. Even still, it has a few battle scars underneath.
Been seeing more and more algae. Not surprising I suppose given the warm water (about 30 degrees), the slow moving current and all the animals along the banks. Interestingly there has been no sign of it for the first 10kms or so downstream of the weir. Increased oxygen levels from the water cascading over the weir maybe. Anyway, I am careful not to take water out of the river for drinking if there is any sign of it.
Saw a few pigs, goats and roos, but also 3 or 4 tortoises (turtles??). They sit on fallen tees just above the surface, then plop into the water when they see you (or maybe hear you). They then just poke their head up to watch you as you go past.
Shindys Inn at Louth tomorrow where I'm going to murder a cold beer. Totally had enough of warm cordial!
MarkRead more
Traveler That really looks very difficult. How many weirs to go?
2/20/24Reply
Traveler Only three that I know of. Tilpa, Wilcannia and Menindee. I am going to email NSW Water with some suggestions!
2/24/24Reply
That tree with exposed roots is amazing - it must have deep and well-anchored roots! [Eileen]
2/26/24Reply
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Traveler Darling River 2024
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- Feb 20, 2024, 5:12pm
- ☁️ 36 °C
- Altitude: 101 m
- Australia New South Wales Bourke Louth -30.539884, 145.11878930°32’24” S 145°7’8” E
3 1
Day 13
Day 12
February 20 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 36 °C
1254 kms to Wentworth
Next town: Tilpa

Made it into Louth for a late lunch at Shindys Inn, a small one room hotel which is the centrepiece of Louth (population 43). It is owned and run by Kathy who has lived in the area all her life and runs the pub by herself. Had some nice fish and chips and Tooheys Old both of which went down well. Was going to stay in Louth tonight but the few potential campsites were strewn with dead carp and broken glass so I have moved down river a bit.
Another weir tomorrow. Groan...
Saw my first other boat on the river today. A couple of blokes in a tinny.
MarkRead more
Traveler UFO?!
2/20/24Reply
Traveler However do you get around that? It looks like it goes across the whole river.
2/20/24Reply
Traveler It was just a matter of weaving and ducking. Luckily the river flow is slow. That makes it easier.
2/24/24Reply
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Traveler Darling River 2024
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- Feb 21, 2024, 5:28pm
- ☁️ 34 °C
- Altitude: 85 m
- Australia New South Wales Bourke -30.662958, 144.91294830°39’47” S 144°54’47” E
1 1
Day 14–17
Day 13
February 21 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C
1216 kms to Wentworth
Next town: Tilpa

Cloudy and a bit cooler today which made the portage around the downstream Louth weir a bit more bearable, but still a 2 hour slog.
I think there are 7 weirs altogether, so 4 down and 3 to go.
Passed Dunlop and Tilby Stations today, both of which were major wool producers in the late 1800's and early 1900's. Unfortunately the river level is 6 or 8 metres below the surrounding countryside so you can't see much.
Algae levels a bit less than the last few days which is good, but still present as a green sheen here and there. No dead fish which is a good sign.
MarkRead more
Traveler Why? Are they using it for cattle?
2/25/24Reply
Traveler 😂
2/25/24Reply
Traveler The weirs don’t look like a big drop but obviously too steep or shallow for you to go through?
2/25/24Reply
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Traveler Darling River 2024
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- Feb 22, 2024, 7:05pm
- ⛅ 27 °C
- Altitude: 39 m
- Australia Victoria Melbourne Flinders Street railway station -37.8159, 144.966937°48’57” S 144°58’1” E
1
Day 15
Day 14
February 22 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
1173 ks to Wentworth
Next town: Tilpa

A nice long, but pleasant day on a very scenic section of the river.
Slightly sore finger joints as I had experienced on the other trips, otherwise all good.
MarkRead more
It IS lovely scenery, and those trees are magnificent. [Eileen]
2/26/24Reply
Hi Mark, enjoying your blog. What a contrast here. Bare river bank and birds. [Kong]
3/1/24Reply
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Traveler Darling River 2024
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- Feb 23, 2024, 5:48pm
- 🌬 33 °C
- Altitude: 89 m
- Australia New South Wales Bourke -30.899326, 144.63555930°53’58” S 144°38’8” E
1 1
Day 16
Day 15
February 23 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 33 °C
1135 kms to Wentworth
Next town: Tilpa

The easterly tailwind has gone and is now a south westerly headwind which has made for slow progress. Hoping to get to Tilpa on Saturday but now it's looking like Sunday. Hoping the Tilpa Hotel is going to be open as I've read it is one of the last true bush pubs in Australia.
No internet in the last few days. I didn't think I would miss it, but it’s not until you don't have it that you realise just how much you rely on it!
MarkRead more
Traveler Ha ha!!!
2/25/24Reply
Traveler Yes that’s lovely and the river looks very pleasant . Are these goats farmed or wild do you think?
2/25/24Reply
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Traveler Darling River 2024
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- Feb 24, 2024, 8:06pm
- 🌙 28 °C
- Altitude: 89 m
- Australia New South Wales Central Darling Tilpa -30.931317, 144.41831330°55’53” S 144°25’6” E
1
Day 17
Day 16
February 24 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 28 °C
1093 kms to Wentworth
Next town: Wilcannia

A big day to get to Tilpa, with 7 hours paddling, 2 hours portaging around the Tilpa weir and 2 hours due diligence at the Tilpa Hotel. Found a camp site at about 7.30pm. Phew!
Tilpa is a tiny settlement on the Darling, and the Tilpa Hotel was terrific. No airs or graces, full of friendly locals and lots of history everywhere you look.
Onwards towards Wilcannia tomorrow. About one third the way to Wentworth.
Glad to get some internet here and catch up on what's happening in the world.
Hope all is well back in the civilisation.
MarkRead more
Traveler That’s made me laugh!!!
2/25/24Reply
Traveler Not much else allowed at Tilpa other than drinking at the pub!! Tank top and things warmly embraced!!
2/25/24Reply
Traveler Yep. Tank tops and thongs are de rigeur up here. I feel totally at home!
2/27/24Reply
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Traveler Darling River 2024
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- Feb 25, 2024, 4:52pm
- ☀️ 35 °C
- Altitude: 84 m
- Australia New South Wales Central Darling -31.081642, 144.33019631°4’54” S 144°19’49” E
Day 18
Day 17
February 25 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C
1060 kms to Wentworth
Next town: Wilcannia
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Traveler Darling River 2024
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- Feb 26, 2024, 4:25pm
- ☀️ 37 °C
- Altitude: 85 m
- Australia New South Wales Central Darling -31.170744, 144.08700631°10’15” S 144°5’13” E
2 2 1
Day 19
Day 18
February 26 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C
1022 kms to Wentworth
Next town: Wilcannia

A nice relaxed days paddling despite the warm conditions. Tilpa is forecast to be 40 degrees plus for the next 4 days which I’m not looking forward to. I try and be up by 7am and leave by 8.30 each morning. I would get up earlier, but the mosquitoes are absolutely ferocious and don't dissipate until the sun is well up, so I stay in the tent until most of them are gone. The flies start getting active at first light so there is no respite!
Food supplies lasting well. I was contemplating getting supplies sent to Tilpa to replenish stocks, but there was no need. Powdered milk instead of long life, couscous and 2 minute noodles means the food volume is kept to a minimum.
Only a bit over 1000kms to go!Read more
Traveler Great picture!
2/29/24Reply
Traveler That’s cool
2/29/24Reply
Traveler So I think you went earlier in the year as you didn’t like the cold in previous years. Now you have the heat. Which is easier?
2/29/24Reply
Traveler Yes, good point. I was cold more than hot on the Murray and Murrumbidgee trips, but they were in late March/April/early May. What I clearly should have realised is that outback NSW is going to be hotter that those 2 southern rivers, and particularly so in February. The positive thing is that theDarling has more flow in summer due to wet season rainfall in south Queensland.
3/2/24Reply
Traveler A conundrum!
3/2/24Reply
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Traveler Darling River 2024
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- Feb 27, 2024, 4:18pm
- ☀️ 39 °C
- Altitude: 91 m
- Australia New South Wales Central Darling -31.348711, 144.0404431°20’55” S 144°2’26” E
Day 20
Day 19
February 27 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 39 °C
980 kms to Wentworth
Next town: Wilcannia

Still very hot and very isolated. Haven't seen anyone since leaving Tilpa.
I may have been lucky with the flow in the river currently being about 2000 ML/day which is up on its normal flow, but the river seems in good health to my untrained eye. Yes, some invasive weeds on the riverbanks and carp in the river and yes, there are isolated sections of algae and many feral pigs, but the number of dead fish I can count on one hand and the river is teeming with birdlife and animals both native and domesticated. I have seen virtually no litter and hardly any water being pumped out except tiny amounts for stock watering. I know water is taken out upstream on the Barwon and Culgoa for cotton farming, but nothing like the amount taken out of the Murray and Murrumbidgee.
Overall I have been really heartened with what I have seen after reading so many articles about environmental degradation and despair for the Darling. Things may yet change I know!Read more
That's encouraging news about the state of the river (except for the pigs and goats). The mosquitoes and flies sound pretty awful though - do you have one of those netted hats? [Eileen]
2/28/24Reply
Traveler I did try a netted hat, but somehow the flies would get inside it. I just use repellent when I have to, but have made mental note to take a fly swat if I ever do a trip like this again!
2/28/24Reply
Traveler Great commentary, Mark!
2/28/24Reply
Traveler Thank you Selwyn.
3/2/24Reply
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Traveler Darling River 2024
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- Feb 28, 2024, 7:27pm
- 🌩️ 40 °C
- Altitude: 84 m
- Australia New South Wales Central Darling -31.446757, 143.84345731°26’48” S 143°50’36” E
Day 21
Day 20
February 28 in Australia ⋅ 🌩️ 40 °C
938 kms to Wentworth
Next town: Wilcannia

Super hot today. I think it reached 44 degrees in Wilcannia and it sure felt like it on the river.
Had a group of 15 to 20 pelicans with me today. I would approach them from behind and they would take flight and settle back on the river a kilometre or so downstream. When I caught up to them ten minutes later, the process was repeated. This happened basically the entire day. I know how much energy big birds like pelicans need to get in the air, but they didn't seem perturbed about the process. It was like having an escort!
So few campsites along the river in this area and was thinking I would have to camp on top of the riverbank. An absolutely perfect one came up about 5.30pm. Phew!
MRead more
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