• River Murray paddle

River Murray paddle

An attempt to paddle from Albury to Goolwa in +/- a couple of months Read more
  • Trip start
    March 5, 2022
  • Campsite 2

    March 7, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Pretty traumatic start yesterday. Not expecting the river to be flowing so fast or have so many snags and gravel bars. Much better today. Slower river flow and getting my sea legs. If things keep improving at this rate I may even start enjoying it!
    Big thank you to Claire and Will who shared the drive to Albury.
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  • Campsite 3

    March 8, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Distance 130/2195
    Next town Corowa
    On schedule

    Much better today. A 43km paddle which I am happy about.
    Restless nights sleep last night with grunting koalas, kangaroos crashing through the undergrowth and loud unexplained splashes in the river. The tent is mosquito proof which is good given this virus which is around at the moment.
    Had a stoush with an ultra aggressive wasp during my lunch stop. It was vigorously attacking me and nearly got into my left ear. I was panicking, swatting at it like crazy, hit myself in the head so hard it knocked me to the ground and now I have a sore ear to boot (from myself not the wasp)!
    Thinking I'm not getting enough calories as burnt out by early afternoon. Into Corowa for a big breakfast in the morning.
    Pics of distance to Murray Mouth sign and typical river view attached.
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  • Day 4

    March 9, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Distance 162 / 2195
    Next town Yarrawonga
    On schedule

    Felt much revived after a bacon and eggs brunch at a Corowa cafe. Interestingly not a mask in sight! Went to Corowa some 30 years ago to visit Jane and Pat F. A lovely little country town.
    Had a lunch stop at a nice spot on the river. Got the chair out and even did a bit of reading for the first time. Had a good chat on the phone with Mum which was nice.
    All going pretty well. Not particularly organised as witnessed by my 2500 steps accumulated packing up camp in an area the size of half a tennis court! Lake Mulwala crossing coming up in a couple of days. Bit nervous about that as I’ve heard some horror stories about kayak crossings in windy weather. Fortunately the weather outlook is for light winds.
    Not likely to be any internet in the next couple of days.
    Photos of Corowa Bridge, lunch spot and camp attached.
    M
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  • Day 5

    March 10, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Distance 190 / 2195
    Next town Yarrawonga
    On schedule

    At Bundalong which is at the upstream end of Lake Mulwala. Seems full of rich kids driving fancy wake boats at excessive speed while pumping out rap music at full volume. A contrast to last night which was unbelievably peaceful. Even heard funny growling noises which (according to Google) is what platypi make. Couldn't actually see them to confirm. Pics of the 2 camps attached.
    The big crossing of Lake Mulwala coming up tomorrow. It's a bit like a mini Lake Alexandrina. Weather forecast good. Fingers crossed!
    M
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  • Day 6

    March 11, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Distance 221 / 2195
    Next town Cobram
    1 day ahead of schedule

    Made it safely across Lake Mulwala. Actually one of the easier days. Not sure what I was worried about.
    Now in Yarrawonga Holiday Park. A caravan park on a mega scale! Forgot this is a long weekend in Victoria so was lucky to get one of the last tent sites. Have done my laundry, restocked at Woolworths and had a nice shower. Into town tonight for a proper meal somewhere.
    The trip today involved a portage using my new little trolley. About 1.2kms escorted by a nice bloke who also took a video!
    M

    PS The unusual headgear is my Bluetooth headphones tethered to my hat.
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  • Day 7

    March 12, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Distance 266 / 2195
    Next town Cobram
    1 day ahead of schedule

    Wall to wall people along the river today. Caravans, tents, jet skis, wake boats motocross bikes, screaming kids, you name it. To be expected I suppose given it's a long weekend in Victoria. Had to push on into the afternoon to find a camp-site. Finally found a perfect one (no road access so no other campers). Currently resting in my camp chair enjoying my own cocktail of home made spiced rum, boiled river water and orange cordial. Strangely appealing but I doubt it will catch on.
    A few pics attached including typical riverbank campers, the kayak (including my Venezuelan good luck charm from Johanna, works perfectly), all the gear to be lugged back and forth each camp and tonight's camp-site.
    M
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  • Day 8

    March 13, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Distance 308 / 2195
    Next town Tocumwal
    1 day ahead of schedule

    Cut myself on the thumb with the pocket knife last night while cutting up a carrot. Not bad enough to need stitches but still a bit nasty. Applied a field dressing (betadine and 2 x bandaids) and seems to be healing OK today. Luckily not on a direct contact point where I hold the paddle.
    Still blown away by the number of people up here. I estimate I passed 5000 today. Hopefully quieter after tomorrow.
    Called into Cobram for lunch and had a chicken pie on their lovely river front park. Saw "Cobram Estate" sign but no olive trees.
    Victorian towns always seem so much bigger, wealthier and better maintained than their SA counterparts. SA inferiority complex maybe??
    Murray cocktail time! 2 minute noodles mixed with a small can of tuna and diced carrot for dinner (again).
    Hope everyone is well.
    M
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  • Day 9

    March 14, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Distance 353/ 2195
    Next town Barmah
    1 day ahead of schedule

    Called into Tocumwal this morning for fresh water and butane gas (got the last gas cannister in the whole town, phew!).
    The good weather finally finished today with a thunderstorm and rain starting mid afternoon. It's not really a problem when you’re paddling and fortunately it stopped just as I found my camp-site. Otherwise I have been so lucky with the weather with high 20's maximums and light tail winds.
    I have the place to myself again (see photo) with the madding crowds having headed off back to Melbourne. Grumpy old man? Yes, probably...
    Looking forward to seeing the Barmah Forest in the next couple of days. 400 year old river red gums apparently.
    M
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  • Day 10

    March 15, 2022 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    Distance 398 / 2195
    Next town Barmah
    2 days ahead of schedule

    A very pleasant day paddling. Only a few fishermen around the place.
    This section of river is known as the Barmah Choke. The river changed course to here some 25,000 years ago, so being relatively young it is quite narrow and shallow, quite different to what I've seen so far. This means historically, in periods of high flow, the water overtops the low banks and floods the surrounding river gum forests (now a National Park). Now the river flow is controlled by the Hume Dam and to prevent uncontrolled flooding of the forest they limit the flow to 7000ML/day in this section of the river. Hence the term "choke". That's my understanding anyway.
    All going well. Hoping to get to Euchuca by Thursday.
    M
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  • Day 11

    March 16, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Distance 444 / 2195
    Next town Echuca
    2 days ahead of schedule

    Continuous light rain from 6pm last night until 9am this morning. Packing up a soggy camp in the rain including scrambling up and down slippery clay banks was not much fun. Even contemplated a rest day in the tent but glad I didn’t.
    Barmah National Park is very peaceful with tall river red gum forests either side. Saw a couple of horses, deer, kangaroos and a blue wren.
    Another big day tomorrow to get to Echuca. Might have a rest day there to dry out and clean up all the gear.
    M
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  • Day 12

    March 17, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Distance 494 /2195
    Next town Torumbarry weir
    4 days ahead of schedule

    Clocked up 50kms today followed by a 500m portage to the Echuca Caravan Park 😞 . Didn't think to book in advance and got one of the last sites as it's the Hot Rod weekend this weekend 😀. Rest day tomorrow. The river abruptly changed from the "new course" with the low clay banks, back to the high banks and sandy beaches on the inside of the bends typical of the original river course. Quite interesting to observe.
    Had a nice chat to the couple next to me in the caravan park. Turns out he is Carl Dew, ex Port SANFL player and cousin of Stuart Dew. Good to have some human contact!
    M
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  • Day 13

    March 18, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Distance 494 / 2195
    Next town Torumbarry Weir
    3 days ahead of schedule

    Rest day today. Echuca is much bigger than I remember. It is the southernmost part of the river in Victoria and also the closest point to Melbourne which I suppose is why it became a major centre. Some really spectacular buildings here. Went to the Echuca wharf museum which was excellent, and to the hotrod show and shine in Moama across the river. Got into some interesting discussions with the petrolheads re the Tesla!
    Back to paddling tomorrow. Wind and weather forecast looking good for the new course to the north-west.
    M
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  • Day 14

    March 19, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Distance 539 / 2195
    Next town Torumbarry weir
    3 days ahead of schedule

    Very busy on the river today with lots of houseboats, paddle steamers, jet skis and power boats. Gradually getting used to them all, but hopefully they will thin out as I get further away from Echuca.
    First passage through a lock tomorrow at Torrumbarry weir.
    Hope you all got your voting done today. Sounds like it's going to be a close call!
    M
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  • Day 15

    March 20, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Distance 582 / 2195
    Next town Barham
    3 days ahead of schedule

    Thought it was going to be an easy day today so had a sleep in and read my book on the river bank this morning which was nice. Turned out to be a tough day as there was no flow in the river and head winds.
    Went through the Torumbarry Weir lock this afternoon. The Lockmaster was a nice bloke, bringing me out some fresh water and an update on the river flows. The lock is an enormous concrete chamber, dropping you down 6 metres quite quickly, with much associated turbulence which was nerve wracking.
    Downstream of the weir is much better. No boats, no people, lots of wildlife.
    M
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  • Day 16

    March 21, 2022 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    Distance 622 / 2195
    Next town Barham
    3 days ahead of schedule

    Nice peaceful day going through Gunbower National Park, only a few fishermen and the odd camper about the place. No pump houses, jetties, shacks or other infrastructure which had been lining the banks down from Echuca. You can almost imagine Aboriginals padding along dusty paths on the banks or out in their bark canoes.
    Pretty slow going with not much current again, and head winds :-(
    Running out of food so I might try a spot of fishing. Hoping raw potato may work as bait otherwise might have to try and dig something up out of the bank. My back is still pretty sore, hoping it won't get any worse.
    M
    PS Wondering why there are 2 towns Barham and Barham so close together!
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  • Day 17

    March 22, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Distance 660 / 2195
    Next town Barham
    3 days ahead of schedule

    Another peaceful day on the river with National Parks either side (Gunbower and Koondrook). Pretty much had the river to myself except for a couple of spots where there were access tracks along the river and there were a few campers. Not another single other boat. The land on the NSW side of the river is private land, so all the campers are on the VIC side where there is a 60m strip of Crown land the full length of their section of the river.
    The river banks since Echuca are high and steep clay banks both sides. The nice sand beaches are gone. This means you either have to find a flattish shelf down close to the river (bit risky if the river rises) or lug all your gear up the steep bank to camp at the main riverbank level. Second option tonight.
    30% of the way to Goolwa. A minor milestone but gives me some confidence I can make the distance.
    Hope everyone is well. No mobile coverage around here so not sure when this will upload.
    M
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  • Day 18

    March 23, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Distance 694 / 2195
    Next town Swan Hill
    3 days ahead of schedule

    Stopped at Barham for lunch and to replenish supplies and water. Nice little town. There is a redgum sawmill in Koondrook which is the Victorian town on the other side of the river. Explains all the log trucks I had seen along the forest tracks. Tried fishing with cheese for bait and got a few bites but it was too tempting to eat the small amount of cheese I had! Now trying raw potato with no success yet.Read more

  • Day 19

    March 24, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Distance 835 / 2195
    Next town Swan Hill
    3 days ahead of schedule

    A nice relaxing day on the river with a long lunch break near Murrabit bridge. Lost my first item in the river today. It was my one bar of soap while I was having a swim / wash prior to dinner. Could have been way worse (eg the phone).
    Have been really impressed with the lack of litter along the river. Most of the places I have stopped to camp have been used by lots of people before, and apart from signs of old campfires, there is absolutely no trace of rubbish. Very heartening. Similarly virtually no flotsam on the river.
    M
    PS Can confirm raw potato is of no interest to any living thing in the river!
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  • Day 20

    March 25, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Distance 773 / 2195
    Next town Swan Hill
    3 days ahead of schedule

    Getting into the rhythm and daily routine now. Still requires about 5 to 6 hours of paddling each day, so I do look forward to finding the nights camp and getting the camp chair out.
    Discovered that the Murray splits into the main Murray and an anabranch "Little Murray" forming Pental Island in the middle. The anabranch runs for about 40kms and rejoins the main river at Swan Hill.
    Back pain seems a bit better with the Voltaren but Pat you may yet need to send me those self help instructions!
    M
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  • Day 21

    March 26, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Distance 796 / 2195
    Next town Nyah
    3 days ahead of schedule

    A fairly easy day's paddle of 24kms and made it into Swan Hill caravan park by early afternoon. Will take a break here tomorrow and have a look around. The tourist blurb here says the Swan Hill region is Australias largest producer of table grapes, almonds, olive oil and pistachios, and also produces 25 % of Australia's carrots. Impressive!
    M
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  • Day 22

    March 27, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Distance 695 / 2195
    Next town Nyah
    3 days ahead of schedule

    Rest day in Swan Hill today. Another big Victorian town. Not as prosperous as Echuca but still pretty busy for a Sunday.
    Reprovisioned and did a couple of touristy things. Resisted the impulse to go into the Chinese massage parlour for a deep tissue back massage despite it getting 4.8/5 stars on the Web!
    M
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  • Day 23

    March 28, 2022 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Distance 847 / 2195
    Next town Nyah
    3 days ahead of schedule

    A nice long paddle today with Nurofen on board which together with the Voltarin seems to have things sorted out.
    I do like the caravan park scene, everyone is very friendly and interested in what I'm doing which is nice. Good to be back on the river again though with more wildlife than people.
    M
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  • Day 24

    March 29, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Distance 888 / 2195
    Next town Boundary Bend
    3 days ahead of schedule

    Another peaceful day on the river with only 1 other boat seen all day. Went past Nyah then called into Tooleybuc to replenish fresh water. Not much happening there on a Tuesday afternoon.
    Haven't been able to find the right butane gas cylinder to fit the little cooker, so I’m on strict rations. Only 1 cup of coffee a day and the noodles get whipped off as soon as they're cooked!
    Hopefully I'll get some more at Boundary Bend.
    Interesting that it has apparently been illegal to remove snags from the river since 2001 as they are an important breeding ground for the Murray Cod.
    M
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