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South of America

A new continent to explore. Argentina, Uruguay, Ecuador, Panama, Costa Rica, Mexico, Honduras, Belize, and wherever else works in. Read more
  • More on Pizza

    October 30, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 52 °F

    I mentioned that the oddly named Kentucky restaurant sells pizza, after the theater I walked into one for a slice. After my earlier pizza observation at the market I wasn’t too sure but it worked out fine.
    My slice was the Napolitano which turned out to to be cheese with sliced tomato. It was fair. The onion in white sauce looked better. I might give it another try.
    There was a display of breakfast type foods sold here so I took some photos of the menu. It’s the item called Tostada that confused me but I’ve worked out that it is referring to anything that is stacked on top of each other.
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  • Subte

    October 30, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    In my current life, I get around town on the Subte, it goes from point to point reliably. Most of all, unlike the bus, I don’t have to say anything to the driver about where I am going. Unlike the subte, buses charge by distance and the driver needs to know how far you are going. I have a hard time saying or even knowing where I am going so this single act is really daunting. So… the subte is my transport of choice. And here are the three main points of the Subte (subway). I live near the D line it is Green on a map, the station about 1/2 block from me is Olleros (pronounced Oh, sar-oh) and it goes in two directions one way is into town: that direction is called Cathedral and the other way is NOT home. The name for “not home” is harder to remember so I just go opposite of Cathedral. Basically into downtown and out of downtown. I Scan my sube card at the turnstile, work out which way to go and head down the stairs. There is no more than 5-7 minutes to wait for the next train and each train is about 5-7 cars long. Jump on quick as the doors will shut on you. Find a seat (hopefully) and off you go.
    Watch the sign and get up and off at the right place. Again be fast. At first I had to rely on the printed signs as the words didn’t match what the automatic voice said. Mexican Spanish pronunciation that I learned in school is not the same as Argentina Spanish. I’m getting better at hearing the words and I’m great and hearing left and right for which side the doors will open.
    Last thing is work out how to get up and out of the sube. Some of the stations have several lines and there are corridors that snake around and down to transfer or exit. Then finally, walk straight through the turnstile and back onto the street.
    The fare is the same regardless of how far you ride.
    The trip for Olleros to Cathedral is about 25 minutes but it goes fast as there is usually some form of free onboard entertainment. More on that in another post.
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  • Palacio Borolo

    October 30, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    This very tall building (100 meters which is at least 21 floors), was built by Italian Borolo in 1923, and the building is celebrating 100 years!
    Borolo was a Mason and a lover of Dante’s inferno. Both were design inspiration and elements he incorporated into the building. According to the story there are two levels of hell (the basements said to be filled with Masonic symbols that would give Dan Brown many stories ideas), 12 levels of something else I can’t remember and the other levels are heaven. Obviously, I need to listen better during the tour, and I should probably read Dante. The architecture is really cool. The lower levels are ornate and the upper levels (the heaven part where you have left all earthly possessions behind) are very plain.
    The very top is a lighthouse type structure, complete with a light, that is illuminated at 22:00 (10:00) for 15 minutes. Apparently the light was confusing to ships in the harbor thus the short time of lighting. We climbed to the very top. The view was awesome!!
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  • Dear Uber Driver

    October 31, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 63 °F

    Thanks for picking me up, in the rain, with lightening, and thunder, and a gasoline embargo. And you dropped me off at a mall with a food court and I ate food that tasted like Panda Express (the first Chinese type restaurant I’ve seen) and I was smiling and tipped you 200% of my ride. It’s Tuesday and I’m very Happy to be in Argentina. If that came off sarcastic it isn’t I’m actually seriously happy.Read more

  • Money + Imagination

    November 1, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 63 °F

    If you mix the Winchester Mystery house (in San Jose California) with Walt Disney and add in a splash of Mad King Ludwig you’ll get Campanoplis. Seriously you will. This guy was a supermarket genius in Argentina. In the 1980’s he learned he has cancer and 5 years to live. So he sold everything and started to build his dream town on 250 hectares of land. He used local labor and a ton of recycled materials he bought or found from around the world. His only rule was “no one should ever stay overnight” so the building are really only facades and there aren’t any kitchens or bathrooms or even furniture and definitely no beds. He lived 20 years and died in the 2000’s. So the entire place looks old but is pretty new. He wasn’t and architect nor and engineer but he designed the town to look like his idea of an Italian village. I don’t think it does, instead it comes out like a cross between Harry Potter and Zermatt, Switzerland. A unique place and well off the beaten path for even Argentinians to visit.
    Oh and I made a another new friend Dina from Macedonia. We were the only two people on the tour who didn’t speak Spanish (me who struggles with 1 language and her working on her fourth). Travel is great for new people.
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  • La Estancia = Ahhhhhh

    November 1, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 59 °F

    Tonight I went all crazy for dinner. I went to one of the top restaurants in BA, La Estancia. Starting with dry aged beef, open grill/fired and served on the table in a charcoal fired tiny BBQ = excellent. I’ve eaten at award winning steak restaurants across the globe, several Michelin star locations and many award winning chefs but… nothing compares with a meal starting with excellent beef from great cows. Wow! is all I can say. If you get to BA you must have the steak at La Estancia. I ordered the mini which was plenty and I had the Waldorf salad ( a private homage to my grandmother who used to make her version for me a long time ago). 2 glasses of Argentine Malbec, a bottle of water (I’m still not sure if it’s ok to drink the water) and a desert. Total bill 16,200 pesos about 18.00 usd. So excellent for less than 20.00….
    Waiter hack, If you visit apparently it is ok to say “Señor” at a fairly loud volume to get the attention of your waiter.
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  • Time to pack

    November 2, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    It’s time to pack up and move on to another country. I’m amazed at how few things I actually need. Gives me strength to really reduce when I get back to California. Tomorrow I start my journey towards Ecuador. It’s been a fun 27 days here in Argentina. I will up date on my progress towards my next stop.Read more

  • Good bye….

    November 3, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    And just like I leave Ave Cablido 598 apartment 4C and I’m on my way.
    Observations:
    1. Buenos Aires is a really busy city. 2.Traffic all the time, if you come consider that in your selection of locations to stay. My location was fine but if you are a light sleeper it might have been too much noise.
    3. The theater was great and having 5 in the area would be awesome… if I spoke Spanish better.
    4. If you are a meat eater there is a good restaurant scene. But other options are limited (at least that I found). Beyond the one Chinese takeaway in the mall, my choices were: meat, empanada, pizza, and burgers. I’ve never wanted a salad more than when I can’t find. Oh and the food is surprisingly bland. Not at all spicy. Lastly, sit down type restaurants are open 11-4:00 close from 4-8pm and reopen. Be prepared for late meals.
    5. Every day, no mater what I did, my brain had a language work out. I have a semester of college Spanish and 3 years of high school Spanish and I live in California, and it was barely enough to get by. Consider that if you visit.
    6. Take tours as often as you can, or explore on your own, the City is full of things and history is everywhere.
    7. In my limited experience use Uber (I paid 12,000 pesos for an hour and half ride to the airport) don’t get in a yellow taxi (I paid 6,000 to go about 10 blocks).
    Ending thoughts —Definitely come to Buenos Aires I recommend it. Stay for awhile so you understand a little better the economics,daily life, and general joy of the people. This is a city that moves fast but you need to take it slowly.
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  • San Francisco Plaza

    November 5, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    My Airbnb is located in what is called the “New City”, which seems to be almost the office and urban neighborhood and where the super mall is (see the other post for that location)
    But the real pleasure of Quito is the Old City. This is the plaza and church of San Francisco which I thought was an apt location to start my exploration of the area.
    Quito is the land of volcanos. Not only is it built on the side of a volcano it is surrounded by volcanos.
    And to offset the volcanos there are churches. So many of them. One street has 7! And they are all beautiful inside and out. Most have nuns and priest who live there. There are bells on ropes and choirs. Most of them you can’t take pictures in but trust me the gold I lay is beautiful.
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  • El Panecillo

    November 5, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Well, this picture of her back is all I’m getting. It started to rain, then hail, then lightning and thunder and more hail. I thought it was fairly intense and was a bit worried about the rain. It absolutely poured. The bus stopped for about 20 minutes. Then I saw people scurrying back from the monument and I saw that people were actually out and looking at the monument and they were running back to get on the bus!
    I just sat there watching it rain.
    Afterwards I asked the guide if that rain was incredible! She said no. It’s just rain and happens most afternoons this time of year. I said surely the thunder and lightning and the hail was unique. Nope it’s just November in Quito.
    And now you know.
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  • New Town

    November 5, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    My AirBnB is in the area called New Town. I guess as opposed to Old Town. After walking around and going into the nearby shopping mall I can see why. These photos are from Quito, not some high end mall in Irange County, California. And what a mall be without an auto dealership?Read more

  • Comparison Shopping

    November 5, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    In Ecuador they use the American dollar which makes it easier to compare prices. As expected some things are crazy more (appliances, tvs and such) and some things like food are less expensive. Oh and the prices of the appliances are monthly charges are the credit price.Read more

  • Middle of the world

    November 6, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Ecuador is on the equator and there is a monument marking the location. The monument, as it turns out, isn’t exactly on the equator. More recent equipment places the actual location about 250 yards away but I felt it was close enough. Surrounding the monument are a dozen or more shops selling Ecuadorian tourist things but it was well presented and didn’t “feel” overly commercialized.
    Please note that about the same time I was sitting of the equator being the center of the world there was an earthquake in California, coincidence? I think not, just proof that I am all powerful…
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  • Looking down

    November 6, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    I remember when I was in Germany and crossed the alps into Austria. The mountain range I first learned about in the Sound of Music. Now I’m looking at a small part of the Andes and the Mindo region. There are so many mountains that I’ve heard of and now I’m seeing them. I’m happy that I can visit them. I put on my courage every day and one day maybe it won’t be something I put on, it will become something that I amRead more

  • Pululahua

    November 6, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    What a surprise to see an entire valley at the bottom! This is what happens when you are in a city built high up and the valley below is full of farm land. It is actually a caldera that last erupted in 467, and the name is from the original Cotocollao language. There are hiking trails to get down and a hotel up at the top with great views.
    I thought it interesting that there will be apartments built here with tennis courts of all things being a selling point.
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  • Teleferico 12,945 feet!

    November 6, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    I’ve been to “the top” of several countries. Top of Europe and Top of Innsbruck, and the top of Ecuador did not disappoint. I do believe it is the highest elevation I have ever been, not in a plane, at 12,945 feet ( 3,945 m).
    A ski lift type gondola ride takes 18 minutes to the top. I will admit at the top I got a little light headed and my brain felt funny. Obviously the lack of oxygen! The view was worth it and of course the photos will never do it justice.
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  • Street things

    November 7, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Traffic is the first thing I noticed followed closely with street vendors. These people walk up and down selling everything from avocados (3 for 1.00 ripe and very nice), to ice cream, soda, water, hot coffee, plastic badge holders, candy and gum. Everything is 1.00.
    There are street performers. I’ve seen them set up a slack line across the road and as you wait for the light you get a mini circus show. Jugglers are pretty popular as well.
    The other street thing are parking “assistants.” These guys work a block and will help you parallel park, back up, and generally make street life manageable. Of course they work for tips. I saw similar in Uruguay but there the street assistants wore special vests and there must have been some sort of management of them.
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  • I’m No Longer High

    November 7, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    It was a short visit in Quito.
    + more relaxed and hurried than Buenos Aires
    - more relaxed means lower energy
    + my apartment was like living in a designer set. Very pretty and actually functional.
    + another few days and I would have developed a true love of my neighborhood. I discovered new restaurants every day.
    + I saw all of the tourist things in Quito more time and I would have been doing day trips and long hikes in the rain forest.
    + I didn’t get elevation illness, but I felt lightheaded at the top of the telleferico.
    Don’t tell Buenos Aires but I like Quito better.
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  • Visual of Quito

    November 8, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    As we flew out of Quito I took these rather blurry photos of the lights. You can really see the valleys.

  • Cuenca First Impressions

    November 9, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    I see why 10,000 foreigners (ex pats) call this town home. At least on my first impression.
    Walkable, cheery, food options, calm (except for an obvious love of car horns), and nice weather.
    At least so far today….Read more

  • Veterans Day

    November 10, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    November 10 is Veterans Day in the US, the population of expats is so high in Cuenca that they have a Veterans Day ceremony here. I didn’t take many photos but it was very nice to watch. Oddly satisfying to be around so many speaking English after almost 35 days of hearing it so infrequently.Read more

  • Dinner

    November 10, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Went to dinner with my Airbnb neighbors. The restaurant selected was one of several in the courtyard of the old nunnery. The food was great and the view was excellent.

  • Museum Day

    November 11, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Cuenca is in the unique position of getting a ton of foreign and retired visitors. It’s a favorite of medical tourists especially dentists. There is also a medical center for US service members. All of these people bring their money and perhaps more beneficially they bring their free time. The two museums I visited today are both a direct result of the energy of foreigners.
    The first is the Arquelogical Museum )Indigenous Cultures) and the second is a house museum that focuses on the history of Cuenca through the 20th century .
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  • Ingapirca Ruins

    November 12, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    The Canari people of Ecuador created a large civilization. Yesterdays museum had many of their artifacts. The Canari worshipped the sun (or maybe the moon) and they lived a fairly quiet existence. Until the Incas came in. The Incas worshiped the sun (or the moon, whatever the opposite of the Canari). Unlike most conquerers the Incas preserved the basic buildings of the Canaria and incorporated them into their construction. They did the same with the people. In all ways it didn’t end well for the Canari who no longer exist. This site is one of the few that show both the Canari and the incas in the same place.
    I was in awe of the fact that I was standing on the site without much “supervision” and the site was from 500-1500 AD.
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