Picos de Europas

août 2023
  • Pam Simpson
A couple of weeks exploring a bit of Spain I've never been to! En savoir plus
  • Pam Simpson

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  • Espagne Espagne
  • Angleterre Angleterre
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  • 13empreintes
  • 15jours
  • 114photos
  • 48j’aime
  • Early start!

    9 août 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Felt like I'd only just settled jnto a deep sleep when I was rudely awakened by the alarm 😫. 0530 and up for a quick shower before walking to the railway station. I'm off on a bit of a walking holiday, sometimes on my own, sometimes with a group of (up to now) strangers.
    I've signed up to a week's walk in the Picos with Explore! Holidays, but am taking a few days either side to relax (might need it after this hol!) and enjoy the French/Spanish 🌞shine.
    Apart from being just a tad tired (understatement), and railway staff being on a go-slow, the train journey was straightforward and easy. What worried me was getting through Gatwick looking like I knew what I was doing 😆. However, there were loads of staff (unlike Stansted) and I sailed through to airside - phew🫡.
    Biarritz was enjoying a 31° day - I can cope with that - and as Mick and I had already scouted out my hotel when we were here in June, I managed to walk straight to it (a miracle, given I'm geographically challenged and usually 180° out!) The hotel is right next to Les Halles, the market, so lots of shops! My room is up in the roof but clean and mostly comfy (lumpy pillows😖).
    After settling in I took myself out for a wander along the seafront. There was a good sea breeze so it was lovely and, of course, a 🍺 may have been involved 🙄😂
    I had a fab Japanese ramen for supper, followed by something I thought would be healthy because there were strawberries involved. How delightfully wrong can you be?😋
    There was no chance of a good night's sleep, though, with the band (see vid) playing just around the corner until about 11.00pm😫😂 and it being very hot up in the eaves of the hotel. I must have slept for a few hours, though👏👏👏, but I'm looking forward to a good night's sleep in Irun tomorrow 🥱🥱🥱
    En savoir plus

  • Almost a camino day!

    10 août 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Thank goodness for double glazing! It managed to keep out much of the noise from the early morning market, but not the binmen at 0300 😂. I managed over 7 hours sleep according to my fitbit - I don't believe it for one minute, it certainly didn't feel like it 🥱🥱🥱. But I didn't have to leave the hotel until 1100 so woke up slowly, leaving when I felt almost human.
    After an initial 'getting lost' (no surprise there, then!) I recognised the road I should have been taking to the railway station, which was about 5km away. The sun was hiding behind a layer of cloud so it was a very pleasant bimble, much of it seeming to be upwards. I managed, though, to 'get lost' again within sight of the station! How did I manage that?🤔🙄😂
    Having purchased my ticket (thanks to a very nice lady who removed me from the queue and did her magic very quickly at the ticket machine) I saw that my train to Hendaye was leaving immediately from the platform on the far side of the tracks 😱. The driver, though, saw me looking at him and delayed departure until I'd legged it under the pass, bless him, cos the next train was 90 minutes later!
    The journey along the coast was gorgeous and the sun had appeared, so it was lovely to relax with a croissant and a coke for half an hour.
    This is familiar territory because it's the journey Julie and I took last year when we started our Camino del Norte from Irun, so with a short walk over the bridge from Hendaye, I was in Spain. I'd also booked a much nicer hotel (real pillows and no noise - yet...) so after a lunch of tortilla I was able to put my feet up for a bit.
    I was restless though, so took myself out for a longer walk through to Hondarribia, where I'm staying on my return leg. I stopped for a beer, of course, and walked back without seeing much of the town - don't want to spoil my next visit🙄😆. It seems I've walked nearly 20km today!
    After a bit of a rest I went out for supper, but nothing interested me, so it's a beer and a sandwich back at the hotel, then a chocolate mousse (or two🙄) for dessert. And, I think, an early bed - keep your fingers crossed!
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  • Bilbao

    11 août 2023, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    After a very nice breakfast at the Hotel Alcazar (forever the Hotel Alcatraz), where I've stayed before with Mick, it was off to Colón, but not before I'd managed to save a couple of Nutella portions at brekkie - my fave😂.
    The Euskotren from Colón to San Sebastian Amara Station took about half an hour, from where I could either change to another train to Bilbao (3.5 hours) or walk to the bus station and take the bus (less than 1.5 hours). No contest! I even found my way to SS estacion de autobuses in almost one go! Amazing😂.
    The weather was fantastic and the beaches were packed, as was San Sebastian. The station is having a new facade, but I think they're keeping one little bit, which I love.
    I'd hoped to grab an ice cream or something before my bus, but I ended up having just 5 minutes to get on, so food would have to wait😕. It wove its way through the very green, beautiful countryside, despite being on autoroutes, and we arrived in Bilbao at about 2.00pm. Next challenge - finding my way to my hotel... After a 180° disaster or two (what else?🙄) I managed to find my accommodation in Bilbao old town.
    After settling in with a lunch of bread, tomatoes and Nutella, I ventured out for a wander. The old town is pretty small so there weren't too many places to get myself lost in, as long as I stuck local 😆. In fact , I found the hostel Julie and I had stayed in last year when it was 45°! The kaleas are narrow and very interesting. I'm not sure what the naked gentleman was selling, but I don't think it was his body😂.
    My wanderings took me to the local food market, which is the most fantastic building with amazing stained glass windows, and to the old cathedral and the church of St Anthony. Unfortunately there was an entry charge for both, which is one of my pet hates 😖 - I won't pay to go into a church where I want to sit quietly!
    I still haven't had my ice cream yet - maybe later - but am currently sitting in a bar two doors down from the hotel. The bar's blasting out rock (in Spanish) and it takes me back to me yoof!
    Well, ice cream dream achieved, along with a very nice salmon and veg, and a local Bilbao beer. Dessert was vanilla ice cream with orange juice - most peculiar but very nice!
    I've managed, thankfully, to work out how the ceiling fan works, so although I'll be cooler when I sleep, I'll probably wake up with a mouth like the bottom of a bird's cage! 😜 😂
    I'm meeting my walking buddies tomorrow, so all change...
    En savoir plus

  • Making new friends 😊

    12 août 2023, Espagne ⋅ 🌫 15 °C

    After yet another disturbed night's sleep (too hot, noisy fan) I had a pretty relaxed start to my day. I had to be at Bilbao Airport by 1130 to meet the Explore! rep and my other walking buddies, and reckoned it'd take me about 30 minutes to walk to the Intermodal (the big bus station) where I'd get the airport bus. It should've taken me that yesterday, but with my 180° mistakes... 'nuff sed!😂 Bilbao was just waking up, it being the weekend, and it was interesting dodging the street cleaners!
    Anyway, after a leisurely start and a sort of second breakfast at the Intermodal (tortilla of course!) I got to the airport with plenty of time to spare.
    Juan was already there, big Explore! sign displayed so I couldn't miss him, as were Becky and ... I've forgotten her name already - here we go🙄🤔😂. Could be Linda, but then it could be Sandra...
    Anyway, there are 13 of us and at the mo (I still haven't spoken to everyone) over half of us are from the education sector 😫😆 - what would you expect, though? It's already resulted in some very interesting conversations!
    We had a 3 hour minibus journey ahead of us, about 2 of which skirted the same route Julie and I had walked on the Norte last year - I much preferred this method of travel. Then, after a quick snack stop, it was another hour winding up and up into the Picos de Europa. There were some fantastic views over the edges of the roads 😱 and some pretty sharp hairpin bends with cows in the way!!!
    This is serious mountain climbing country (not that we'll be doing any of that) and there are lots of paths leading through the three massifs that make up the Picos, some of which we'll be tackling over the next week.
    Sotres is the highest town (village?) in the Picos and even has its own albergue! Camino, anyone?
    Everyone seems to be really lovely. We're a mixed bunch, but I've found 2 fellow scousers, so there should be a few laughs, too.
    First walk tomorrow is 19km, I think, but we don't start til 0930 so I think it's going to be just fine 😊😊😊. We have mist right now, but a good walking temperature of 22° is forecast. That'll do!
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  • Bloomin' 'eck!

    13 août 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Where to start? Today has been the most amazing day scenery-wise, despite low lying cloud, but it has also been exceptionally challenging!
    I have far too many fab photos to share, but I'll try to pick out the best.
    We started, after a very nice breakfast, with a short drive up yet another winding road, closing our eyes and leaning over every time another vehicle came our way😅. Our walk was a 19/20km one and I swear 15 of them were uphill! That may be a slight exaggeration, but not by much!
    The sun hadn't cracked the clouds when we started so it was interesting walking through the cloud, getting a tad wet but appreciating it. It wasn't cold and I was soon 'glowing' profusely 😂. We'd been warned to take a lot of water - there was only one spring on the route, although there was a refuge we would stop at, too, so I'd packed 2 litres, surely enough until we reached the spring or the refuge?
    From the start it was uphill, uphill and more uphill, but we were rewarded with the most amazing views above the clouds. It was truly stunning 😍. I was pleased not to be right at the back of the group (that was to come😂) but it felt like ages before we stopped for a breather! When we're walking a camino, there are quite a few photo opportunities, i.e. rest breaks!
    We passed a cheese cave, where the local Cantabrian cheeses are matured for at least 4 months, and we have a local cheese tasting to look forward to.
    I'm not sure how long it took (seemed like hours!) to reach the refuge, but it was most welcome! The building is left over from the local zinc mining that took place in the Picos, the last mine only closing about 50 years ago, I think. We walked on the scree left over from the mining activities and we were often sliding backwards, losing our footing, which was a bit worrying! A local warden walked with us, keeping up the rear, to make sure we were all okay.
    On the way we encountered the local sheepdogs... The one in the photo was wearing a spiked collar to protect him from the wolves!!!😱
    After reaching a plateau, we started our walk downhill, which was slippy slidey, too, but a welcome change to up, up, up. The sun had come out, too, so lots more water was drunk!
    After a 30 minute lunch break (and a wild wee) we began walking through a fab beech forest. This bit was lovely and we really got a move on. It was damp and green and fabulous! Funniest bit was when two of us stayed back for wild wee number 2, only to be greeted by 2 walkers going the other way! We'd seen next to no-one all day 😆. Sod's Law!
    Then, surprise surprise, it was more up! "Only 20 minutes", said Juan. Well, it was 24 minutes and such slow going! But, at the top - our vehicle 👏👏👏, thank goodness!
    A very welcome beer was enjoyed when we got back to the hotel, followed by a shower and our evening meal. Now it's time for bed🥱🥱🥱, I think I'll sleep very well tonight!
    Apparently, tomorrow is similar 😱. I'm hoping my body will have forgotten by then😂😂😂.
    En savoir plus

  • Good grief!😂

    14 août 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    So... yesterday was a real challenge - we walked approximately 19km and ascended/descended 780m both ways. Today's walk was 'different ' according to Juan, our guide. No further details 🙄, although we knew it was an 800m ascent/descent in about 17km.
    We began with a car journey of about 30 minutes to somewhere remote - every time we passed a car park I said a prayer of thanks - not so far uphill for us, I thought. Ha!!! Ha indeed!🙄😅
    From our car park we walked across a beautiful meadow - well, it was across and up, all in one. The meadow was where the Moors and the Visigoths had fought in AD718.
    We then passed the refugio that would welcome us with a cold beer on our way down 👏👏👏. There followed a rather strenuous hike, mostly uphill (although there were a few flatter bits of the path), to a 'saddle' where the huge monolith of the Naranjo de Bulnes stands. The last hour or more's walk, cos I was slow, was entirely uphill 😱. It was one of those "it's just around the corner" walks, but it was never just around the corner apart from when it was, of course😜😊. It was an amazing walk and I sort of loved it!
    The huge monolith thing will host the World Championship Mountain Climbing Competition next year, so I'll definitely be watching out for that!
    On the pic attached, there are actually at least 2 climbers - challenge to find them!!!
    After a very nice lunch, it was off downhill, and I mean downhill! The first part was the steep gradient it'd taken me over an hour to walk 😱. I managed to slip/slide and land on my bottom a couple of times, but no harm done, I have plenty of padding 🍑😅. We continued like this for ages until we reached the refugio for a well-earned beer 👍. Oh, and we were overtaken by mules on both legs! Apparently, daily supplies are carried by the mules, and once a year a helicopter delivers all the non-perishable! Poor mules!
    Our journey down was a lot quicker than our journey up, believe it or not, and we arrived back at our hotel in plenty of time for a beer👏👏👏.
    Tomorrow's pretty much all downhill. We'll just have to see🙄😅🥰. Hope the pics do the day justice!😘
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  • Well!!!

    15 août 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Not sure what to call today apart from Well!!!
    The day was described in the brochure as a 10km walk with 1,150m of descent. Juan said it was around 12km. My fitbit tells me a different story😅. According to it, I've walked over 19km, which will probably be about 18km depending on the length of my stride🙄🤔😂.
    We began the day walking through a bit of a meadow, joining a sheep drove after about 15 minutes. It was pretty obvious that not many sheep, or shepherds, had used this track in a while, but it was a lovely meander through some very green countryside. There were a few hairy bits where we had to beat back the brambles and watch our step, but nothing compared to the previous 2 days, although I have the scratches to prove it was a hard day!😂
    We'd been told there would be a 'short' ascent of about 15 minutes at the end of the drove, but we just hadn't been told how steep it was 🙄🤬😅. It was, thankfully, a concrete path to the main road towards the village of Treviso, where we'd be enjoying a lunch stop, so it certainly wasn't the slippery surface we'd encountered on either day 1 or 2! A half hour route march along a thankfully level road took us to Treviso to enjoy our packed lunch. I'd ordered a cheese tortilla bocadilla (a large sandwich on crusty, Spanish bread). When I opened my lunch... well, it was a cheese bocadilla - no spread, no nothing, only cheese 🙄😂. I gratefully swapped with one of my walking buddies, who really enjoyed it. I had tortilla which was, to be honest, disappointing 😞 🙄. But a coke zero and a Mars Bar soon put that right!
    Treviso is in Cantabria and is one of the places that makes its own cheese, storing it in the cheese caves we'd seen on day 1, so there was a bit of a tasting and, I have to say, it is absolutely amazing 😋😋😋.
    Until 1991, Treviso was only served by the track we were going to tackle next. This was the 1,150m descent we'd read about, and was bloomin awful! Anyone wishing to visit a large city, e.g. Santander, had to take themselves off down this track, catch the bus and do their business, return to the track and ascend 1,150m!!! 1991! 33 years ago! Unbelievable and incredible! The local postie only visited a couple of times a week and I'm sure he travelled by mule or something similar! One of the photos shows a wiggle of white lines - that was our route😱🙄😂 - whilst the other shows the track meandering down the mountain.
    The track consisted of chunks of limestone, some tiny, some medium sized and some absolutely massive. I only managed to fall over once today - not bad, and no bones were broken 👍, but the sheer concentration we had to put in to staying upright was very tiring!
    We were lucky enough to see nesting vultures on the limestone rockface, but they were so difficult to photograph! Nothing will match the splendour of finding a Griffin vulture circling over your head, taking food to its young, born only 2 or 3 weeks ago. Yet another amazing experience.
    On our way down, we also found a herd of goats resting on the hillside. They were massive and followed us noisily as we left the valley.
    Our walk brought us to a hydro-electric station and then up to the minibus, thank goodness! We were all really tired (see pic of Nick😂) but before we got back to the hotel, we picked up Juan's grandson from school. He's 5 yrs old and very sweet🥰🥰🥰. A mad, raucous evening meal (I wasn't involved, I promise 🙄) has seen me in bed by 9.30pm! Think I might get the painkillers ready for the morning...
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  • Some extra photos...

    15 août 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Some extra photos. One of our group recorded most of our walks on Strava and I've tried to put them in order but, to be honest, one day was as difficult as another so it doesn't matter 😅
    The snake is a poisonous Seoanes Viper which one of the blokes bent down to photograph 🙄😋😅. He'd taken a day off walking, so thank goodness the snake was more frightened!!!
    And Juan is the large bloke on the left of the first photo. He's built like an ox and has more energy than the lot of us put together! Oh, one more of his stories... he and his nephew were the stuntmen for an action piece in a James Bond/Mission Impossible (that kind of thing) film, spraying bullets at a building as they abseiled down it 😱😅😅. Priceless!!!
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  • Wow!

    16 août 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today was a very relaxing day, apart from the last uphill slog which, according to Juan, is always '15 minutes' with no indication of gradient 🙄😆.
    We began with a 2 hour journey to Potes. The original plan was to stay overnight in Potes after yesterday's hell of a descent from Treviso, but as it's August and holiday season, no hotel will accept a one night stay. So we travelled from Sotres to Potes and it was great! The scenery is just stunning, and there are very few towns or villages to pass through, so it's pretty much the Cares Gorge all the way. Sheer rock faces and meandering rivers. We're walking the gorge tomorrow, so you'll hear more of that!
    On arriving in Potes we made our way to the Monastery of St Toribio of Liebana, dating from the 18th century. This is a very special place for Christians because there's a relic of the cross of Jesus Christ contained within the golden cross you can see. And this is a bit of the same cross that was presented to King Charles III at his coronation (think I've got that right!). It was a very special place for me, too, cos I found a camino waymarker! This is an official 3 day detour on the Camino del Norte that Julie and I started last year. I even got myself a pilgrim's stamp from the pilgrim office - as daft as this may sound, this was a really special place for me, even though we were only there for a whistle-stop tour! 🥰 The best bit, though, was the fact that as soon as I'd stepped foit in the monastery doorway, my sins were forgiven. Some of my walking buddies suggested I might try bouncing back and forth over the threshold.🙄😂😂
    After the monastery we drove on to Fuentes, where a cable car was waiting for us! This was a 4 minute journey up into the clouds and beyond, to the top of ... another mountain! But the views on emerging from the cloud layer were just glorious! The sun was shining, and it was simply amazing!
    Our day's walk started here - we were to walk the 18km back to Sotres, stopping for lunch on our way down. Thankfully, it was a very gentle slope for the most part, and we were all able to move back and forth between each other, getting to know each other better and usually having a good laugh!
    Juan tells us some great stories - today's was that his wife's great (great?) grandfather was a shepherd in the mountains here and was asked by a hunter to guide him back to the lodge up there when they were lost in the snow. Seems this hunter was the Spanish king at the time and became a lifelong friend of Sonya's great (great?) grandfather! That's the lodge with the red roof. It was a gift from the British King (? maybe?) and was transported from the UK to Spain. Inside is (apparently) as it was over 100 years ago. To be honest, Juan could tell us anything and we'd believe him 🙄🤪😆.
    The cross and memorial were to a Sotres man who died in a horrendous winter in the 1940s - there was no food in Sotres so he set out to find some, dying as a result. It would certainly be a vicious winter in these parts!
    The '15" minutes uphill was probably more like 20, but it brought us to our lovely hotel where we showered, ordered a glass of wine and ate a first class meal.
    It only leaves me to say good night 🥱😴🥱😴🥱😴
    I've added a photo from yesterday. If you zoom in you can definitely see a Griffin vulture!!!
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  • The Cares Gorge - make like a goat!

    17 août 2023, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Phew! I thought we'd done all the hard stuff! There hasn't really been a day when I haven't been physically challenged, although yesterday was the least challenging. But today!!!
    It was described as a 24km walk with 300 metres of ascent and descent. What they forgot to say was that that ascent and descent happens pretty much at the beginning (and so the end) of the walk!
    A 30 minute minibus journey took us to Poncebos, where we started the ascent. Problem was, so did the world and its dog🙄 - quite literally, poor dogs! So the near enough 300 metres of ascent took about 50 continuous minutes. You couldn't stop because the path was pretty narrow and to stop would've caused a traffic jam, and the ground was made up of rocks - both fixed and moveable! I'm pretty pleased that I was able to do this - it was heart-pounding stuff (at my peak my heart was beating at 144bpm) - so it was a welcome change to walk on some flat ground!
    The path was only about 1 metre wide - sometimes wider, sometimes narrower - and 12 kms long in all, between Poncebos and Cain. The drop to the side was steep and precipitous and, don't forget, this was 2 way traffic🤪🙄😂.
    There were quite a few mountain goats bimbling around, and they liked to lick the salt from your legs😆.
    So, 12km in and we reached Cain, where we stopped for lunch. But... an hour later, we were on our way back!
    There were some ups and downs, but nothing compared to the approx 300m descent back into Poncebos. That was pure hell 😫😖😂. There were places where I couldn't even find steps for my feet (obviously I did, cos I'm here) but it just seemed to go on forever.
    But, 6 hours walking today and a good 24kms, and here I am, in bed, looking forward to a good night's exhausted sleep!
    It was a truly spectacular day, but this old nanny goat has had enough😂😂😂
    The first photo is of our group, and a vid of a flying Griffin vulture!
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