South East Asia

février 2024 - juin 2025
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  • Day 37

    13 mars 2024, Cambodge ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Angkor (Again)

    My first alarm went off at 4.45 and I eventually got out of bed at 5, as the plan was to leave at 5.15. Once I had gotten ready and gathered my things I head downstairs to the lobby, preparing to get called late for being there 30 seconds after 5.15. Turns out neither Alfie or Daisy was there. After checking the other lobby, I texted him and waited until 5.20 until I tried calling where it went to voicemail. Hmm. Waiting another 5 minutes I lightly knock on their door, then knock a little harder until a very tired looking Alfie opens the door claiming his alarm never went off.

    Feeling smug I wait for them to get ready we cycle towards Angkor Wat, hopefully catching sunrise. Given the sunsets being shrouded by clouds, there wasn't much hope for a good sunrise but we gave it a shot anyways. Riding with headtorches, light started to break as we arrived and we make our way across the Rainbow Bridge into Angkor Wat. Walking through the outer gate we see that there was alot of other people who were here for the same thing, so we found a wall to sit on and woke up a bit more as we watched it get lighter and lighter with no sun. Eventually, the sun rises above the layer of cloud / haze quite far above the horizon.

    Needing a good breakfast, we head towards the small section of shops and restaurants where we witness the fierce competition for the exact same menu. We were seated at the 007 James Bond table and I ordered some rice whilst Alfie and Daisy ordered pancakes and fruit - with the fruit coming underneath for some reason. We say no to people trying to sell us the same few things about 100 times before paying and heading towards the Wat.

    We do a perimeter around the walls and see loads of monkeys doing their thing (Daisy's first monkey experience) - with the highlight being the newborns hanging onto their parent's chests so they could get around. We head inside and wander around. The whole place was massive and very well maintained / restored and we could even go up the balcony and get a good view over the whole place, with a hot air balloon rising up not far from the Wat. On the cycle here we manages to avoid the heat but it was slowly getting hotter and hotter. We head out to the bathroom and apply some suncream where I buy my 2nd 1.5L bottle of water of the day.

    From the balcony we could see a temple on a hill in the distance so that was our next mission. Cycling over didn't take long but the walk up was definitely harder. It was a good trail up and not too long but with the heat rising and energy dropping we took a decent break halfway - passing a temple nestled in the jungle on the way up. We get to top and wander up and over the 5 layer pyramid. We come down and around the opposite side - accidently walking through the construction worker's base - as they all watch confusingly as we walk past their hammocks. It was incredibly awkward but eventually we get through and make our way back down the hill. By the bottom I was seriously low on energy and needed a sugary fruit smoothie to revitalise me, so I ordered a mystery fruit combo and it was such a good feeling. It was the level of ice cold that makes your chest hurt slightly as you drink it - which is very uncomfortable but worth it.

    We cycle back towards Angkor Wat and head towards a chain of other Temples we hadn't seen. We got some much needed lunch and another drink and after miscommunicating about the price, we headed out once again. I was revitalised 100% and on high spirits but shortly after I accidently took a wrong turn which meant that we took a trail through the woods instead of the road which was pretty awesome. Going along the sandy red dirt tracks on our mountain bikes through beautiful trees was the kind of riding I loved. We emerged onto the road at a ticket checkpoint where the dude was quite surprised to see that we had no guide with us. He wished us a good day and we went onwards.

    It was starting to get later in the afternoon and we had to get the bikes back in the evening so we quickly check out a few Temples and a decent sized lake. Our final temple was Ta Prohm, which reminded both Daisy and I of Temple Run, with the run down and overgrown temple with long corridors and many turns. We then set our sights back on Siem Reap. We decided to split up so I cycled solo whilst Alfie and Daisy went at a bit more of a leisurely pace. I returned my bike, got my 50 dollar deposit back and grabbed a beautiful piece of chicken from a street vendor and chowed down before showering off and chilling in the pool until the others got back.

    It was about 7 now and there was a quiz on at our hostel that night so we headed out to grab some food to enjoy whilst we hopefully dominated quiz night. I grabbed some fried noodles, beef and egg as well as a tub of oreo rolled ice cream with unlimited toppings. By the time we got back (at pretty much 8 on the dot) my ice cream was pretty much melted. The quiz started at 8.30 and I devoured both my noodles and my ice cream soup (whic hwas amazing by the way) it was time to quiz. 7 teams and 5 rounds, our first challenge was to pick our team name. Not being able to chose a good enough name we ended up not putting any name.

    After a general knowledge, true / false, Cambodian, celebrity baby picture and a music round, with 2 bonus rounds where me and Alfie had to pop 2 balloons with our backs, and then I had to shotgun a beer it all came down to the marking. We were pretty confident we were doing well until they started reading the answers and realised it had gone terribly. The answer I was most proud of was knowing Beethoven's Für Elise which the neighbour to our hostel had been playing a 5 second snippet of on repeat the whole time we had been here in a feud against the music from our hostel. It was petty and was driving me clinically insane - especially as I could here it whilst trying to sleep too.

    After realising we had lost to the group of drunk lads from Devon, it was time to retire and head to bed.
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  • Day 36

    12 mars 2024, Cambodge ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Siem Reap Countyside

    Today was a (mostly) solo day and I was hyped. Firstly I could lay in as much as I wanted whilst Alfie had to go to the airport to pickup Daisy (more on that later). After having a beautiful lie in til 10, I went to find some breakfast and I decided to cycle South of Siem Reap towards Tonlé Sap - the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia. First things first, it was sweltering. The heat hadn't hit its max yet but paired with the humidity that Cambodia seemed to dominate Thailand over- I was a very sweaty dude.

    On the way, there was a temple that sat ontop of a 140m tall hill. This might not seem very high but looking around it was FLAT. Flatter than the notoriously flat Kent. If it wasn't for the haze (presumably from the Northern burning season) I'm sure I could have seen Kent too. This is why this seemingly small hill towered above the vast rice fields and small villages. A sign somewhere called it a mountain - which it definitely isn't - but given how much I struggled getting to the top I'm going with that.

    My first challenge was getting to the base of the mountain - my GPS was pretty spotty and its quite hard to navigate whilst the sun glares off your phone screen. Add the sting of sweat and suncream in my eyes and its a difficult combo. After finally finding the right road I made my way up the fairly gradual incline. Fairly gradual to my eyes but not my body. Holy shit I could barely move forward without having to stop to rehydrate and walk my bike up. I'm not exaggerating by saying that in the few minutes I sat down enough sweat had fallen on my phone that I couldn't use the screen any more. Cue 2 Spanish people casually making their way past me, seemingly without a single bead of sweat. This had me intensely questioning my plans for bikepacking this summer.

    After getting to the ticket checkpoint 2/3 the way up, it seemed that they had left their Angkor tickets at home and they couldn't go up any more. After composing myself once again I attack the rest of the hill, stopping one more time before eventually reaching the top. After yet another sit down in the shade I now had no hope for the summer - the only possibility of success being from the lack of humidity.

    I had the ruins of the temple almost exclusively to myself which made a very peaceful break, sitting on a bench amongst the trees overlooking the endless fields & surrounded by the sounds of nature. Eventually some local kids come to the trees near me - with a few strung together sticks - trying to knock peppers out of the tree. It wasn't long before the young boy climbed up the tree to grab them instead. I think seeing tourists is quite a novelty to Cambodian children as they're always very enthusiastically saying hello whenever you pass them. The view of the lake was okay but I could barely tell it was there with the haze.

    After thinking I had lost my earphone and spending a while searching for it, I had found it under my bike just as I had given up all hope of finding it. We take those wins. I cycled back down the hill in maybe a fiftieth of the time and effort and decided to cycle towards the lake. I took a back road through a very rugged dirt track which passes through a small village who definitely were living a very basic life - with nothing but fishing and farming in the area. Their houses were also built about 5 meters off the farmland on precarious wooden stilts - assumedly for the rainy season?

    I make it to a checkpoint close to the lake where it was revealed I wasn't allowed to cycle to the lake and had to get a boat tour if I wanted to see the floating village. Deciding against spending over 30 dollars for something I wasn't that interested in, I found a very small place for food where I enjoyed the small breeze from the ceiling fan whilst I ate some much needed lunch. After, I thought I had a few hours of daylight left to try and explore as much as I could so I really wanted to get out into the countryside. Finding a route with written directions online I headed back to Siem Reap to start my route - cycling along the very construction site esque "river".

    It wasn't long til I abandoned the route and just used Google maps to find the closest remote countryside that I could - not having the sunlight or energy to go any further. I followed a red dirt track and eventually chose a peaceful enough spot to sit and take in the start of the sunset through the thick haze. After lying on the floor and most likely getting ants in places I didn't want them - I sit up to the noise of lots of quacking. I then see that a farmer was taking a huge flock of ducks for a walk and was probably walking them back home - very cute. Not wanting to cycle back in the dark I left the peaceful fields of ox and plants and start heading back.

    By now I was exhausted and dehydrated nomatter how much water I drank so this was a massive slug. When I get back I change into my swimming trunks as quick as I can and shower off the layer of dirt and dust before cooling off in the pool. I chill for a while before getting out ready to meet up with Alfie and Daisy for dinner. After showing me their humongous room, we head out to the night market. After catching up with eachother I come to learn that Alfie managed to head to the WRONG airport to go and pickup Daisy. In all fairness Google Maps did him dirty and shows the recently closed airport as the only airport and the new one doesn't appear atall. Alfie thought he was gonna get scammed by the TukTuk drivers instead he scammed himself having to spend the money having to go from Siem Reap to the old airport to the new airport and back to Siem Reap.

    We eat, walk through Pub Street, head to a supermarket for even more water and head back to go to sleep ready to get up early enough to catch a 6.15am sunrise at Angkor Wat.
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  • Day 35

    11 mars 2024, Cambodge ⋅ ☁️ 35 °C

    Angkor

    After living the 2 wheeled life in Thailand, it was time to mix it up. 2 wheels but no engine it was time for some cycling. After some waffles for breakfast (barely anywhere was open) we went to a local rental place and got a couple mountain bikes. It was either mountain bikes or a city rider - unfortunately no road bikes. I got mine for 3 days whilst Alfie got his for only 1, meaning I paid 4 bucks per day whilst he paid 5. Not wanting to leave our passports behind as a deposit we went to an ATM and got some money out and then we were good to go. With our bikes, helmets and locks we headed towards the Angkor site.

    Angkor is famous for Angkor Wat but the whole area has many Temples and buildings from the 8th to 15th century. People spend many days exploring the area so we brought a 3 day ticket and decided to check out some of the other Temples as we were waiting for Daisy to arrive before we went to Angkor Wat.

    Cycling past Angkor Wat's busy looking entrance we head further North and enter the Southern Gate of the large walls that enclose lots of ruins - with the Bayon Temple standing in the centre. Walking around the ruins was amazing. So many of the bricks had collapsed and a slow restoration project was underway but seeing the intricate carvings from hundreds of years ago around the maze like hallways was so interesting to see. Heading up and around the enclosed walls, there were loads of other ruins to see like Baphuon (a very cool pyramid), Phimeanakas (a slightly less cool but still cool pyramid), Terrace of the Elephants (honestly just a platform), and Tep Pranam & Prasat Preah Palilay (ruins enveloped by the jungle).

    Eventually all of the cycling in the sweltering heat and made us hungry and very thirsty, so we stopped in a restaurant where the vibe of Cambodia (or atleast the touristy areas) was cemented. From about 100m outside the restaurant, a lady basically runs after us to ask us to eat at her restaurant. Showing us a menu with items $7 a pop I was happy to say no but in an instant it became $4 with a drink included. We were back to the old Turkish haggling ways and I wasn't too happy about it. After a gargantuan meal which made us both feel as full as we ever had we decided to slowly make our way to the next temple.

    We headed North toward Prasat Preah Khan, another square micro city with a big moat and a big wall around it. This one had some information at the entrance which was really interesting to read about the history, the architecture, the decorations, and the restoration efforts. This place was even more maze like than the other, with hundreds of doorways and hallways linking together. Most had been blocked by rubble but it was still cool, with 4 main hallways leading to a small pillar right in the centre. Cambodia had apparently gone through different religious phases, with this temple being built in the brief Hindu phase by the King, meaning there was alot of different statues and decorations than there were in other Temples. We head out the West side and sit by a large square lake with a small square island in the centre. After cooling down a tad and appreciating the Cambodian love of squares, we head back to our bikes and cycle back to Siem Reap.

    Alfie returns his bike and I lock my bike to a brick wall outside the hostel and I go for a swim in the pool to cool down. Immediately I feel so much better without the sweat and suncream and I probably spend about an hour chilling, listening to the group of British holiday makers sitting by the pool. Eventually I dry off and we head to the night market for some food, where Alfie goes for a classic 2 mains as 1 just wasn't enough for his huge appetite. This time we were lucky enough to sit on normal size chairs. After, I try and find something sweet but it seems that the Cambodians don't really eat dessert. After passing an ice cream place for being too expensive, I went for a pancake with chocolate, expecting a similar roti to Koh Tao. I was wrong and definitely got what I paid for. I miss sticky mango rice.

    We head back (running into a small group of very enthusiastic happy ending massagers trying to sell us a good time), shower, and head to sleep. As Daisy was arriving tomorrow, we were doing completely separate things so I had nothing to wake up for.
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  • Day 34

    10 mars 2024, Cambodge ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    Bangkok > Siem Reap

    We woke up nice and early (this is becoming a habit now) and checked in for our bus. After filling out our immigration slips we went to 7-11 for a super healthy breakfast of a toastie and chocolate, with some snacks in the reserve. Our host / stewardess / whatever you call it was a lovely girl called Alex who was very clear about what the process of the day was gonna look like, especially with the border crossing & VISAs.

    It was about 10am by the time that we stopped at our first stop to pick up lunch - way too early for it but we met someone on our bus who just so happened to have graduated from Uni of Bath last year. What are the chances of that? We board back on and on the way to the border Alfie points out a couple "armed vehicles" going the opposite way (they were definitely tanks). When we get there the process was super simple - we were even given a lanyard with a map on. We get stamped out of Thailand, wait a bit in international waters before getting stamped into Cambodia with our eVISAs.

    Back on the bus, we make our way towards Siem Reap and arrive a few hours later. It was quite a long journey but that bus had free WiFi so I kept myself pretty occupied on YouTube for the whole journey. When we arrive, we hop off and head 10 minutes towards our hostel - being offered about 1 million TukTuks on the way. We check in and pay the ridiculously cheap rates for a bed (less than 4 pounds!?), sort our stuff and go out and about for a quick explore.

    We were a tad early for the night markets and some dude started chatted to me whilst Alfie was getting food. Turns out he ran a school for underprivileged kids and I ended up not having a choice but donating. Not really understanding the new currencies (they used both Riel and US Dollars) I ended up giving him 20,000 Riel which might sound like alot but was less than 4 Pounds. I brought some more suncream after being robbed at the airport, and we head to "Pub Street" and grab a 75 cents glass of Cambodian beer before heading back to our hostel.

    Alfie ends up calling his mum by the pool, where I head out and down the river for a "quick" Mother's Day call. 2 hours later I call my sister and we catch up before I grab some dinner. For some reason the Riverside Market has loads of cheap food but the chairs and tables are made for toddlers. Feeling like a giant I ate my first Cambodian meal and thoroughly enjoyed it.

    I head back to the hostel, shower, shave, and try to sleep whilst 2 Spanish girls (probably thinking they were being quiet) chatted away at a normal volume at midnight a couple beds away.
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  • Day 33

    9 mars 2024, Thaïlande ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Phuket > Bangkok

    We woke up, I had a smoothie for breakfast, and then we checked out. We then realised we had absolutely nothing better to do than to sit in the cool lobby until we needed to head to the airport. After grabbing a small lunch of garlic bread (literally garlic and butter on white bread) and spring rolls we ordered a grab and headed towards the airport. The driver was on facetime to his wife the whole journey but it was a nice comfortable cool SUV so no complaints from me. We arrive and the driver gave all his change to us as he didn't have enough to break a 1000 bill then we headed inside.

    We check in Alfie's bag where the dude upgraded our seats to the emergency row and we headed towards security. Not having enough time to sort my bag beforehand I awkwardly try and get all my liquids and electronics sorted before heading through the scanner. Unfortunately, my suncream and aloe vera were too big and had to be axed. After forgetting my phone in my pocket, we explored the small domestic lobby of the airport, with the emptiest airport I had ever seen. With a strange red bannered Subway and a weird assortment of shops. We chilled for an hour before boarding started.

    I don't know why but we were in boarding in Zone C which meant we got to board first. We had decided that Zone C people we simply built different, the go getters of the airport, the real rise and grinders. Upon getting on the plane, my extra legroom seat was actually and extra extra legroom seat, with no seat infront of me atall. With absolutely nothing stopping me or my legs I enjoyed the little luxury. One downside is that my tray was about 2m infront of me and impossible to reach. Luckily, our super fancy high tech seats had trays inbuilt into the arm rest. I was truly living the poor man's first class. A short plane ride later and we land back in Bangkok. Feeling deja vu from 30 days before, it was extremely weird that Thailand was already almost done with.

    We get Alfie's bag, hop on the metro and take our ride to the last stop. A short walk in the lovely Bangkok pollution and we were meant to hop on another metro line that took us close to our hostel. Unfortunately, I cannot read and Google lied to me as it was a bus line instead. Seeing almost no difference in the ETA, I deicde we should walk the 50 minutes - something that I'm not sure Alfie was totally on board with. One sweaty walk later we make it to our hostel near Khao San Road and check in. Our hostel had a very strange vibe, being both quite nice arty place and a shit hole.

    It was now time for some food. After 1 month in Thailand having beautiful Thai cuisine for breakfast, lunch, and dinner - it was time to have 1 last proper Thai meal. Naturally we head to Domino's and order a large Hawian pizza to share. I know what you're gonna say - not only did I not go for a classic Pad Thai but I didn't even go for a Thai flavoured pizza? That's right, I have no regrets, it was one of the cheapest pizza and I have been craving some Western comfort food so leave me alone.

    We then head to 7-11 for some Western drinks - Alfie going for coke and me opting for Fanta. We then head to our hostel, shower and head to bed. Alfie then knocks on my curtain and says that something had leaked all over his shoes and socks and gave me a sopping wet sock to feel. Laughing at him I close my curtain and leave him to deal with the consequences.
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  • Day 32

    8 mars 2024, Thaïlande ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Phi Phi Islands

    Honestly today was kind of a blur as I was exhausted and felt a bit ill all day so I'm gonna keep it short.

    Got some breakfast from 7/11 then got picked up from our hostel and headed to the port where we met out guide. Our boat was half English and half Russian guide so we definitely had a diverse group of people - most of which definitely weren't our age. After a long boat journey we arrive at Viking Cave and Phi Leh Bay. It was a nice view but the water was filled with so many exact same boats as ours. We did some swimming in a small section was okay but helped wake me up a tad.

    We then went to Maya Bay - famous for being in the movie "The Beach" which I had never heard of. It was a lovely bay but you couldn't swim in the water and was filled with 100s of people getting the exact same selfie for their Instagrams. We then headed to Phi Phi Don - the main island where people stayed filled with loads of hotels and restaurants. We walked a few minutes for a buffet lunch which I'm sure was okay but I had a serious lack of appetite so felt like I was force feeding myself. As I sat there I felt something on my foot, I kicked my foot and eventually it came off. I looked down to see what it was and to my horror it was a HUGE COCKROACH. Immediately I put my feet up on my chair and wanted to leave as soon as I could. I laid on the beach before we boarded our boat again and covered in sand, we headed to see Monkey Beach from afar.

    Our final stop was Khai Nok Island with a similar vibe to where we had been so far, beautiful and busy. I laid on the beach like a corpse wanting to be back at our hostel as soon as possible before washing the sand off in the small designated swimming area - passing a group of women singing half submerged - very odd. We make our way back to Phuket then driven back to our hostel. The day was okay, I'm sure me feeling terrible didn't help but I probably wouldn't do it again - even in sunnier weather. Special shoutout to the dickhead I had to sit next to on the boat the whole day (not Alfie) who insisted on spreading his legs as much as he could as often as he could.

    When we got back at 6pm I pretty much showered and got to bed straight away - opting for some snacks from 7-11 instead of dinner.
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  • Day 31

    7 mars 2024, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Phuket

    After a much need lie in, we moved out stuff downstairs to a shared dorm after a nice night in a private room. We didn't have much of a plan for the day so we headed out in search of somewhere to do our washing. We chuck our stuff in and head for breakfast. After a smoothie and some chicken and rice, we put our clothes on to dry and Alfie went for a haircut whilst I chilled at the hostel. With a much better trim than Daisy left him with, we picked up our washing, then headed to a local park by suggestion of our hostel owner.

    We had realised that staying in the Old Town meany that there wasn't alot to do, most tourists went to Patong as there were beaches and a bit more of an atmosphere but to be honest I didn't mind too much. The 3rd task (after washing and haircut) that we needed to do was to book our island tour for the Phi Phi Islands tomorrow. I say we but in all reality Alfie had already found the tour and booked it so I just sat there and agreed. Whilst he was doing this I had to record a short speech for why I wanted to be social sec next year in mountainairing. I would like to say this was quick and easy and I got it first try but that was not the case. After getting over the initial hurdle of talking to a camera I must have repeated it 10 times before I finally got a take that Iiked. Alfie, however, didn't so another 10 takes and I got one we were both happy with.

    We took a walk around the park, which seemed to be Phuket's running park - as evening came in runners flocked to running in circles around the lake. Next to us, this dude set up an industrial sound system then started singing his heart out - maybe to encourage the runners? This park also had 2 giant dinosaur models which I thought were awesome - Alfie wasn't as impressed. After forcing him to take my picture we went on our merry way to our next destination - a viewpoint on top of a hill.

    I wish we had rented a scooter as it would have made our journey alot shorter. 1 hill with a shitty footpath later we had made it to the viewpoint at the top overlooking Phuket with the Big Buddha statue sitting in the distance on a hill. I grab a smoothie and Alfie grabs a coconut and after getting attacked by bugs for a while we sat and enjoyed the view and the sunset (it was too cloudy for a good view) whilst some monkeys messed about on nearby cars.

    We head to grab some food at the Indy Market again and then head to sleep ready for our tour tomorrow.
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  • Day 30

    6 mars 2024, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Khao Sok > Phuket

    After waking up at 6am for our 6.30 morning safari I felt like a train had hiy me, but it was all worth it for being able to see the beautiful sky when I opened the door to our hut, still laying in bed.

    Our safari was okay, we saw some monkeys and some birds but honestly I was so tired I kept falling in and out of sleep even sitting on the hard wooden planks. Eventually we got given some binoculars which helped keeping me awake but not by much. We returned back at our camp where I went for a quick wake up swim before being treated to a lovely pancake breakfast with maple syrup and jam.

    We checked out of our huts and got back onto our longtail boat before reaching the original dam again. We said goodbye to our guide (unfortunately I never got his name) and hopped into a van headed towards a restaurant for a very early lunch. We sat by this nice bridge surrounded by fans and had a free 100 Baht budget to chose from.

    After what felt like way too long, our driver says its time to go and we headed back to HQ. It was about 1pm now and our bus was scheduled at 4pm, but there was another at 2pm which meant we were gonna try and go to the bus station and see what they could do. To our suprise, the lady at the desk called ahead and said if we could get there on time there was enough space for us to get on. She then arranged travel for us and we hopped in the back of a truck and we arrived. However, once arriving it turned out that apparently there wasn't space for the 2pm bus so we had to wait for the 4pm.

    After a boring wait, we made it onto the bus and it definitely was far from luxury. The AC barely worked and there were alot more people than seats. So after sweating my ass off on the leather seats, drinking water than had been heated by God knows what, half the people get off which let's me move seats and stretch out a little for the rest of our journey.

    We get into Phuket just before 8, and having been told that busses into the Old Town were finished for the day we order a Grab and make our way to our hostel. There had been a slight mixup with our room but it meant that me and Alfie got a private room to ourselves for 1 night all it meant is that we had to share a bed. I saw this as an upgrade though I'm not sure Alfie agreed. The bed must have been a Super King as it was the size of 2 singles. We dropped our stuff and headed to Phuket Indie Market to grab some food. At this market they had a very enthusiastic dancer on stage with the musicians which was so funny I could barely watch.

    We headed back and it wasn't long before I had showered and passed out as I was that tired.
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  • Day 29

    5 mars 2024, Thaïlande ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    Khao Sok National Park

    After waking up bright and early for our breakfast, we head to "Our Jungle Camp" HQ and wait for our van to be ready to leave. We drop our bags and board the minivan and head towards a 7-11 to grab and water and snacks we needed for the trip. A short trip onwards and we arrive at Rajjaprabha Dam where we meet our guide for the next 2 days. After paying our fees we eventually board our longtail boat and head into Cheow Lan Lake.

    Cheow Lan Lake is a 185 square kilometer man made lake. In 1987 they built a massive dam and flooded the forest for hydropower, flood control, and fishing. This lead to a beautiful clear lake with towering cliffs and jungle both in and around it. Our longtail boat took us through part of it, until we reached our small village of floating raft houses. There was a clear scale of luxury as you looked along. Me and Alfie were staying in their basic package, a small bamboo house with mattresses on the floor and mosquito nets (which for me is still plenty enough) but others had fancier materials, with bed frames, and ensuites.

    The little village had more amenities than I expected, with toilets, showers, and even electricity during the day. First things first we put our stuff in our little hut then I stripped down to my swim suit and jumped straight into the water. It wasn't long until I was diving, front flipping and back flipping from the walkway into the water. The walkway however, felt like fire as it had been baking in the sun all day, so you either had to be very quick or wear flip flops. On my 2nd attempt of a backflip I got a little close for comfort to the walkway and Alfie banned me from any more flips.

    It was lunch time, where were served to a beautiful mix of rice, noodles, vegetables, fish, and omelettes with mango and dragon fruit to finish off. Even better is we could have as much as we wanted. After lunch, we headed straight for the kayaks where I was expecting to have one each, but Alfie wanted to go for a 2 in 1. This was a mistake. When I kayaked before it had been easy to control, but with 2 people it was chaos. At first we tried padding together but we couldn't go 5 meters before we meandered uncontrollably to the side. We eventually turn back and go back to swimming before it was time for our afternoon activity.

    We head back on the longtail boat to a section where there was a short hike before we would enter a cave. When we landed, the first warning we got was that there were wild elephants on the path yesterday and if our guide saw any elephants, or recent evidence there was a 2 step plan. Step 1: be very quiet. Step 2: run as fast as we could back the way we came. Very exciting.

    Along the trail to the cave, our guide pointed out various animals and plants along the route, even showing us the tracks for where elephants had walked, bamboo they had eaten, and trees where they had itched themselves. We're then taught some basic Jungle survival, and he showed us that with a "small knife" (it was a machete) you could get water from young bamboo, as well as find "bamboo worms" for a small snack. He then pulled some barely alive white worms from his backpack and asked if anyone felt hungry. With no one else volunteering, I thought "might aswell" and went for it. Feeling the poor little guy explode in my mouth wasn't a nice feeling. Neither was his chewy little body.

    We eventually make it to the cave where we are handed headtorches and warned about the many many big spiders that called the cave their home. Deciding to wear my big boy pants, I ventured down. Oh my god they were fucking massive. Disgusting little spindly creatures I can't believe I got as close as I did to the. By close, it wasn't close atall, I made sure I socially distanced as much as I could from those things, treating them like patient 0 of COVID-19. As we get deeper we see hundreds of bats flocked on the ceiling squeaking away. We turn back and it wasn't until we had left that I realised how tense I was.

    We wander back down the trail and board our longtail boat, ready for an evening "safari". I'm gonna be honest I'm not sure if our guide just didn't see any animals to point out but it was more of an evening snack eating festival. I'm not complaining of course I love snacks. We had dried rice crackers, banana in sweet sticky rice, and oreos taking in the serenity. That was when the massive diesel engine wasn't blaring.

    We get back to our floating raft houses and after another swim, it was time for dinner. It was similar to lunch, but we had a full on fish that had been fried and put on a plate. With none of us knowing how on Earth to eat this thing, we just started cutting small chunks off as best we could. I was terrible at this and almost ate maybe 5 small bones. The table next to us evidently had some experience as they had a perfectly meat free fish skeleton still intact. After chatting to a Canadian dude about travelling in Canada and Africs, we went to bed ready for our 6.30am safari.
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  • Day 28

    4 mars 2024, Thaïlande ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Railay > Khao Sok Village

    After grabbing another Thai omelette from our regular place on Tonsai, we go back to our hotel and pack, as well as apply for our Cambodia VISAs as it won't be long now till we're done with Thailand! How sad. One thing I had noticed about today was that it was hot and humid. Eventually we leave and make the walk through the jungle from Tonsai to Railay with our big bags. With the heat this was extremely uncomfortable and the new priority was to find somewhere in the shade with a fan. So, we go back to old faithful and go to the restaurant we were at yesterday and I order even more food and a ice cold watermelon smoothie.

    Eventually we head to the pier and grab a longtail boat over to a pier in Krabi, ready to wait for our minivan to Khao Sok. After being eaten alive by bugs, we realise we were in the wrong place and head to the right place to wait. The air was uncomfortable to exist in, with temperatures as high as 35° but feeling like 42° so you can imagine the relief of sitting in an air conditioned minivan. After lots of diversions to pick and drop people off, we get to Khao Sok and we walk to our hotel and check in. Somehow we had scored 2 double beds. Downside is the bathroom smelt like human shit.

    We head out for some food where I get some beautiful yellow noodles followed by the biggest portion of mango sticky rice I've ever been given. We head back and shower in the stinky bathroom then head to sleep. Around 2.30am I had my mosquito net fall down and smother me, so that was interesting to put back up.
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