Luarca to Navia

I left Luarca under a blanket of morning fog, giving the town and coastline a quiet, almost magical feel. The plaza was being set up for a Medieval Market, which I am sure would be fantastic, if only I had time to spare. As the route climbed away from the harbor, I passed more of the whimsical gardens and Camino-themed artwork that have become one of my favorite features of the Camino del Norte.

One yard featured a pilgrim and scallop shell sculpture made entirely from Estrella beer caps—a creative tribute to both pilgrims and local beer. Up the street, little train planters seemed to be the gardening trend of choice, each one overflowing with flowers and greenery. The colorful displays continued throughout the morning with hydrangeas, angel’s trumpets, roses, and morning glories brightening the route during the ascent.

The walk itself was pleasant, with rolling countryside and coastal views appearing whenever the fog lifted. By the time I reached Navia, I was ready for a little indulgence.

The hotel had a spa, making it the perfect place for a Camino recovery session. A 30-minute massage loosened up the muscles, and time spent in the hydrotherapy pools and sauna felt like a luxury after nearly two weeks on the trail.

Later, I wandered through town and found dinner, but Navia never quite clicked with me the way some of the other Asturian towns had. It wasn’t a bad place—just lacking the charm and energy I’d found elsewhere along the coast. After dinner, I headed back to the hotel, happy to enjoy a quiet night and get some rest before another early start in the morning.Read more