Navia to Tapia de Casariego

Day 14: 27 km / 16.8 miles

After a week of hiking in shorts, the morning finally felt cool enough to zip the legs back onto my convertible pants. The relief didn’t last long—the day warmed up quickly—but it was a reminder that the weather along the coast can change from one day to the next.

At 27 kilometers, this was my longest day yet on the Camino. Surprisingly, I enjoyed every step of it.

The route was filled with more of the things I’ve come to love about Asturias: outrageous hydrangeas in every color imaginable and charming Camino-themed yard decorations. One of my favorites was a pair of seagulls cleverly crafted from white high-heeled pumps. Everywhere I walked, there seemed to be another creative display waiting around the corner.

What strikes me most is the effort that local residents put into welcoming pilgrims. The decorated gardens, handmade signs, painted shells, and whimsical sculptures add so much personality to the route. They make it clear that pilgrims are not just passing through—we are noticed and appreciated. Throughout Asturias, I’ve found people to be remarkably friendly. A cheerful “Hola” or “Buenas” is common, and while “Buen Camino” is usually reserved for fellow pilgrims, the warmth of the local people has been just as memorable as the scenery.

One of the highlights of the day was taking a coastal alternative that added a few extra kilometers. On paper it made an already long day even longer, but there was no question it was worth it. With dramatic ocean views and rugged shoreline, it felt like the perfect farewell to Asturias. As I walked, I found myself reflecting on how much I had enjoyed this region and how quickly the days had passed.

When I arrived in Tapia de Casariego, I discovered the albergue was closed, so I booked a small hotel near the beach instead. The owner handed me beach towels, and before long I was back in the water.

The swim was exactly what my body needed. I floated on my back, drifted with the waves, and spent a while simply sitting in the surf, letting the cool seawater soothe tired legs and feet after the longest stage of the trip. Afterwards, I stretched out in the sun, spending about ten minutes on each side while my improvised Camino “tankini” dried.

It was a perfect ending to a hot day and a fitting goodbye to Asturias.

Dinner was equally memorable. A friend a few days ahead on the Camino had recommended a local restaurant, and the paella paired with a glass of Albariño tasted every bit as good as promised. After 27 kilometers, the meal felt thoroughly earned.Read more