Tapia to Ribadeo

Day 15: 9 miles / 14.6 km
You’d think that after two weeks of walking the Camino—and with a relatively short day ahead—I would have navigation completely figured out. Not quite.

The coastal variant leaving Tapia presented a few challenges. Some of the paths had been planted with corn, ranging from tiny shoots to stalks nearly a foot high. In places, the footpath seemed to disappear altogether, plowed under and reclaimed by the fields. A bit of bushwhacking through tall grasses was required before I finally emerged from the weeds and found the familiar yellow arrows and scallop shells once again.

Once back on track, the route meandered pleasantly through farmland and small villages. One of the day’s highlights was a generously stocked donativo stand. Alongside the usual snacks were oranges, lemons, apples, and the largest kumquats I’ve ever seen. They were sweet, juicy, and exactly what I needed on a warm day of walking.

The route continued past more beautiful beaches and several impressive campgrounds. As someone who enjoys camping, I couldn’t help but notice how spacious and well-equipped they were, tucked into some spectacular coastal settings.

The most memorable moment of the day came at the bridge crossing from Asturias into Galicia. Stepping across felt significant—not just because I was entering a new region, but because it marked the end of this year’s Camino journey.

Ribadeo is my Santiago.

There was no Compostela certificate waiting for me, and no grand finish in front of the cathedral. Instead, there were two wonderful weeks of memories, photographs, friendships, and experiences that felt every bit as meaningful.

Over time, I’ve realized that I no longer feel the need to push myself to reach Santiago every time I walk a Camino. This stretch through Asturias gave me something I value even more: freedom. Freedom to stop for a swim whenever a beautiful beach appeared. Freedom to take coastal alternatives simply because they looked interesting. Freedom to linger over conversations, make new friends, and enjoy unhurried meals. Freedom to say goodbye to pilgrims continuing onward while being perfectly content with where my own journey would end.

For this year, Ribadeo was enough. More than enough.

And as I crossed into Galicia, I felt grateful for every step that had brought me there.Read more