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Spring Fling into the Mediterr
  • SailingSealaVie
Apr – Jun 2023

Spring Fling into the Mediterr

A 66-day adventure by SailingSealaVie Read more
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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the MediterrTraveler
    Sanctuary of Montagna SpaccataTurks GrottoTurks GrottoGaeta harbour1Serapo Beach where we anchoredLegend: 3 splits created as Christ diedChapel of the Crucifix between 2 walls

    Gaeta to Gulf of Naples

    May 21, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    A bad night of rolling, swinging, rocking but woke up to a calm and sunny morning. We rowed ashore to climb the promontory and visit the chapel suspended between the split rocks. In our typical 'good' luck fashion, it was closed for repairs! Fortunately, we could see it as we motored away from the anchorage. We visited the other church, saw Turks Grotto in the other split and wandered up the cliffs then came back to the boat. We set off for the island of Ischia in the Gulf of Naples and had a mix of weather- sun, light to no wind, calm sea, and rain. Coats on, off, on, off but it was warmer than it has been. Sadly, we passed garbage floating. 😡🤯😖 We anchored off the beach at Porto d' Ischia after checking forecasted wind and waves. We watched ferries arriving and departing simultaneously and continuously! It's as busy as Nice airport! It rained off and on as we settled in for the night.Read more

  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the MediterrTraveler
    Porto d'Ischia
    1Aragonese castle on Castello d'IschiaIsola di Procida; note private yachtCapo MisenoPerfect night in Porto Miseno

    Porto d'Ischia to Baia and Porto Miseno

    May 22, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We woke up to a lovely morning and rowed ashore before 0800 as our stove gas had expired last night and I needed my cappuccino! Unlike other places, stores didn't open until 0900-they must be on island time! We then motored to Baia (mainland) where we stopped for diesel. A power boat about 55ft. came in behind us to fill-up. It took over an hour, 2200 litres and his bill was €6000! 🤯 We motored down the bay to check out an anchorage and decided it was too industrial so turned around. The wind had come up and Bob decided he didn't like the way the dinghy engine was bouncing so, while we we were motoring, he climbed into the dinghy, removed the engine and climbed back onto our boat! Maybe he should try out for Cirque de Soleil! We ended up at Porto Miseno, a little harbour with beautiful rock formations and lovely hotels on top of cliffs above us. We were entertained with a live band playing good music and we had front row seats for fireworks set off about 2 boat lengths away! A beautiful night under a crescent moon, with familiar melodies and gorgeous fireworks. Perfect.Read more

  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the MediterrTraveler
    Beach and our boat beyond outer wallLovely hotel and gardens, Porto Misenowedding 👰🤵‍♂dinghy!

    Napoli

    May 23, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After coffee ☕ in the early morning sun in the cockpit, we motored to Naples where we anchored the boat and Bob rowed us behind the breakwater. We discovered there was a beach and 2 fishing boats selling their catch. We have to say the fish were pretty small and not as varied compared to the fish markets on the Atlantic coast. We tied up our dinghy hoping it and our sailboat would still be there later! 😬 We wandered along the seawall and through the old part of Naples where they were setting up for some music concert. The streets were festooned with streamers celebrating a sports win along with drying laundry hung out of the windows. We stopped for pizza lunch along the sea front but we were not pleased when told you have to go online to view the menu and later found a €5 sitting charge on the bill!😡 We wandered back and discovered both boats were still there! 😀 Bob started rowing us out with comments from a fellow at the dock that I should be rowing for the Captain. HA! Bob got his workout 🚣‍♂️as he was battling the wind then we sailed back to Porto Miseno. Bob rowed again against the current, and we walked to the grocery store. Discovered a lake! Perfect for dinghy sailing. I rowed us back, made dinner and listened to the music and watched fireworks again.Read more

  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the MediterrTraveler
    Mt. Vesuvius in the haze
    CapriCapriIsolotta Galli where the Sirens sing to sailors1AmalfiAmalfiSalerno

    🚤🛳⛴🛥🚢😡😬

    May 24, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We left Porto Miseno in the smog and haze keeping watch for the many ferries coming and going from various islands and Naples. We could hardly see across the Bay. As we got closer to Capri and the Amalfi coast the sea traffic increased considerably with tour boats, private power boats, fishing boats, ferries, a cruise ship and a freighter. We had to take evasive action numerous times to avoid near collisions. The power boats come so fast towards / behind you and they don't change course until the last moment or until we've slowed and turned and then we're subjected to their heavy waves and engine wash. So much for courtesy and who has the right of way!🤯 If anyone has seen the movie 'Bowfinger', we felt like Eddie Murphy's character crossing the freeway!😲🥺😤🤯
    The Amalfi coast is beautiful with spectacular hotels on high cliffs with winding paths to the sea. I wouldn't want to get to the bottom and realize I'd forgotten my sunscreen! Bob says at those 5🌟hotels, it would be delivered on a silver platter. Very different from our 1/2 🌟 ship! 🤣
    We cruised into Amalfi but carried on to Salerno as there wasn't a suitable anchorage. We anchored behind the cruise ship port off the beach and main street with palm trees, lovely buildings and a castle on the mountain above. Once the tour boats stopped for the night, it was calm. Once again, we were treated to fireworks🎆!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the MediterrTraveler

    Pompei and Salerno

    May 25, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    On Thursday we took a side trip by train from Salerno to Pompei. The train, by comparison to French trains, was clean, modern, had English notices and announcements, was inexpensive and on time. What is surprising is that the Italians we've met do not speak much English whereas the French do.
    Pompei was fantastic! A bit of a lineup and a wait to get in but quite efficient and once in, you could wander wherever and avoid the crowds/tour groups. It's a marvel that so much has been uncovered and is intact. Even blown glass perfume vials and carved hair pins with such intricate details! Piecing together frescoes is the ultimate jigsaw puzzle. Amazing.
    Yesterday we wandered around Salerno. We visit a lot of churches for the architecture and to see the opulence. Some are so full of glitz and some are in such inaccessible places it makes you wonder how, why??? They are a contradiction of the beauty and the macabre.
    After paying cigarettes ☠ and beer🍺 to the young fellow at the fuel dock to look after our dinghy, we motored back to the sailboat. We were visited by a Swiss couple who invited us onto their catamaran for drinks which turned into dinner. It was a lovely night and they gave us lots of info and advice on harbours and places. They know another sailing couple from Bella Coola! It's always a pleasure meeting new people and hearing their stories.
    Salerno is our last southern spot before we head north again and leave the boat at an as yet to be confirmed marina.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the MediterrTraveler
    our Swiss neighbours

    Heading North again

    May 27, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I winched up the dinghy and Bob pulled up our anchors and we waved farewell to our Swiss neighbours. We discovered that the anchor buoy was no longer attached and was just floating. It's no wonder we were mystified last evening at our position!
    We decided to sail/motor further out from the Amalfi coast in order to avoid the traffic and their wake. At the Sirens, Captain Bob announced we had reached our furthermost southern position and we were now heading North. 🥺 Due to the lack of wind, he also announced we were a motor boat, not a sailing vessel! That changed as we reached the channel to Capri and we were sailing once again, 'running the gauntlet' of ferries, power boats, and tour boats. Only 1 evasive tactic required but, oh, my nerves! 🤯😬😖 As we came back into Porto Miseno, it was crowded! Everyone was out for Sat. in the sun. We anchored beside 2 rafted catamarans which had a crowd of young people dancing, singing and playing ball. We had dinner in the cockpit and watched as everyone left and we had the harbour to ourselves again. Lovely music from the hotel and fireworks ended a good day.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the MediterrTraveler
    Cap faro Miseno
    Gaeta medievale

    Sunny Sunday

    May 28, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We left Miseno and headed toward Gaeta staying clear of 4 ferries, 3 tour boats and a cargo ship as we rounded the Cap from Miseno. Lots of space but lots of waves 🌊. ugh. From then on it was lovely and quiet with basically no one but us! The sailing was perfect with the wind increasing, naturally, as we were heading in to the Port. Due to wind and wave direction, we anchored off the old town rather than where we had been before under the cliffs at the beach. It obviously was a good spot because 4 other power boats decided to anchor within a boat length of us! 🤯😖😬 We watched with both concern and amusement as they shouted with arms gesticulating while untangling their anchors! We up and moved and finally had the space to ourselves. Eclectic choices of music from the bar entertained us and put us to bed.Read more

  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the MediterrTraveler
    monitoring trafficIsola Ponza white cliffsPonzaour anchorage neighbour. His "dinghy" fits inside!

    Isola Ponza

    May 30, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We spent Monday wandering Old Gaeta and discovered the Italian national pastime of closing attractions ⛪🕍🕌 and museums🏤⛲🎠 whenever it suits them! The town is a maze of alleys, lanes, staircases, arches, broken buildings and lovely homes with rooftop gardens and views. We met a German fellow who lives aboard his catamaran with his wife and 10 month baby and another baby arriving! He was busy putting nets around the lifelines. 👍A calm night and we set off the next morning for Ponza, by all accounts, a place with gorgeous water and spectacular rock formations and cliffs. Once again there was little to no traffic so a lovely transit although little wind. We anchored off a lovely beach and Bob dipped his toes while I swam around the boat. The water temp was 24C! The wind started blowing in with some waves but the forecast was for light wind and waves. LIES! We thought we were settled for the night but we got bouncier and blown so made a decision to move around to the other side of the island even though it was dark. Donned our life jackets and we motored out, bouncing, splashing, crashing in the waves. I vetoed Bob's idea of trying to lift the dinghy while bouncing in the waves and decided to go into the town harbour rather than around the island. It was still an exposed harbour but somewhat less and there were other boats anchored so we joined them. Needless to say, a rocky, scary ending to what had begun as a glorious day. No sleep 🥱for me!Read more

  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the MediterrTraveler
    1

    Spectacular Ponza

    May 31, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After a sleepless night for me, I was able to catch 40 winks after Bob got up at 6. The wind and waves had lessened but it was still bouncy so we decided at 0715 to go around to the west side of the island. As we rounded into the bay, there were 14 other masts! Some had left the harbour in the dark to escape the east wind and swells. Although there were lots of boats, it was not crowded and there was plenty of room between us. Spectacular cliffs, caves and rock of different colours. The water was beautiful with a sandy bottom and occasional rocks and grass but we couldn't see any fish life. We motored in the dinghy to explore the shore. By the late afternoon, the wind and waves had shifted and were coming at us from the west so we packed up and moved to the east side again. Fortunately, when it shifted again it was light enough and of no concern. 2 ferries came in and left, other boats arrived from the west side, the church bells chimed a tune every half hour and the setting sun lit up the colourful houses. A calm and restful night.Read more

  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the MediterrTraveler
    following the ferry as the sun is rising
    sunrise leaving Ponza1practicing using the sextant1

    Last sailing day

    June 1, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Up before the sun as we planned a long day (66 n.m. 11 hours) to Fiumicino/Rome where we leave the boat for the summer. We left with the ferry and motorsailed for awhile, then motored, then sailed. A beautiful day ( maybe we should have stayed in Ponza at the beach? 🤔) with very little boat traffic and what we did see was far off and heading south to our north. One power boat was aimed at us but he changed course before Bob blew the horn and after I tersley told him to call on the radio or change course! I don't like playing "chicken"! I called the marina to advise we were at the mouth of the river and they hailed us and took our lines as we rafted up to 2 other boats. Lovely not to have to leap off! The marina staff were welcoming and helpful, even offering to loan us a car. I'm not prepared for another wild and thorny walk! The evening was calm on the river with an otter swimming by, birds calling and chirping from the island in the river. Peaceful. A perfect ending to our last sailing day.Read more

  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the MediterrTraveler
    ducks and goats!
    wedding in progress

    Bike: 67 kms, walk: 18 kms, sail: 0 n.m.

    June 5, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Since arriving in Fiumicino/ Tiber River, we have been in clean up mode and readying the boat for summer storage. We took our dinghy for a spin up the river which has marinas and boats of all sizes and types along both banks. We also scouted out how to get to Rome by transit which led us on a not so merry ride going in circles and backtracking with no success! We did see a lot of Fiumicino and the beach area though! In the end, we decided to take the wild and thorny route but on bikes Sunday morning so there was little traffic and no thorns. Whew! There aren't words to describe how busy and crowded Rome is. We stepped off the train at the Coliseum and could see the line extending completely around the Coliseum and down the road to Circo Massimo, so that ended any thought and desire to wait to enter! We walked and viewed the different ruins from outside the gates, wandered through gardens and crept into a church hosting a small wedding. The area around Trevi fountain was 15 people deep so I had to forgo throwing my coin for fear of taking out an eye! I'm thankful I saw Rome as a teenager. If it's ruins you want to see, I'd recommend Pompei over Rome although the Coliseum is spectacular in its magnitude.
    We enjoyed the stories of our neighbour, Walter from Austria, who has sailed all his life, including a 5 year sailing trip around the world. I have boat envy: he has a dishwasher, washer & dryer and a watermaker plus another 17 feet in length!
    He agrees with our analysis of Italian boaters: typically macho with speed and power a priority, inattentive bordering on negligent, and unaware of anchoring space! Otherwise, friendly and helpful with a laid back attitude to work schedules on land!
    One day left then we fly early to Paris where we overnight and fly home Thursday. I'll miss the calm river habitat with its bird song, the fragrant scents of jasmine and honeysuckle bushes, and the beauty of the palm and lemon trees, the bougainvillea and the sun on the water. But I'm ready to come home and join in the fun with friends🥰 and family❤, particularly 2 energetic, imaginative and inquisitive children! 😍😘    Read more

    Trip end
    June 8, 2023
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