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Spring Fling into the Mediterr
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Spring Fling into the Mediterr

SailingSealaVieによる66日間のアドベンチャー もっと詳しく
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  • 旅行の開始
    2023年4月4日
    SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    2
    1

    Arrival Port Saint Louis, France

    2023年4月11日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    An 8:00 a.m. delivery had us up and walking from the hotel 3 kms. to the Port in order to meet Sea la Vie as she arrived from Hendaye. The delivery went smoothly and into the water she went...she still floats! Lots to sort out and to put together, including the mast, but Day 1 complete under a sunny sky and le Mistral wind and a few temporary bad tempers!もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    grocery run
    solar panels on biminiVery impt. cargo!my sunny corner out of the wind

    Progress!

    2023年4月15日, フランス ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    Today is our 5th day on the boat and all is proceeding well with only minor hiccups and a few 🤬!
    On day one after the boat went into the water, we got the engine going (tempoarily), the dodger and bimini up, the solar panels in and powering up and the living quarters emptied of sails and organized. The engine overheated which required Bob to don his diesel mechanic hat to repair, to no avail.
    Day 2: The Volvo mechanic came, blew into the in/outtake tubes, added some grease, et voilà, success! 10 minutes and €€! Bob had done the correct repairs, he just didn't know the tricks of the trade in spite of having a lot of hot air!😁🤪
    Bob worked on the mast, putting it together and sorting stays and lines while I was the swabbie, cook and general gofer.
    Day 3: More of the same.
    Day 4: Mast on! Stays attached and tightened so the mast won't fall over 😬 👍.
    Today the boom, and the lines are on but we do not dare to add the sails or we may take flight!
    The weather has been sunny with temp. from 5C at night to 22C but the wind!😯🤯💨💨💨 It blows 22-50 kms! Today we've reached +55 kms! I've told Bob we'll be staying at the dock until the wind slows down. Peut-être un mois???! Fortunately there are no waves although we woke up one morning at 0300 hrs. being tossed and turned. We leapt out of bed to rescue parts topside before they rolled into the sea!
    The 6km (round trip) by 🚲 to the grocery store is a challenge due to the wind but easy returning as the wind carries us home!
    Electricity is at a premium so only items under 500W can be plugged in. I figured out our heater worked after suffering a couple of nights/mornings and a cold 🚽 seat! 🥶 Sadly, the hairblower wattage is too much so I am back to my Medusa-like coiffure and Bob looks like he's been electrocuted!
    Bob the Barista has been re-employed under the threat of mutiny or keel-hauling, depending on the hierarchy of the day!
    We've met some lovely people, U.K., Swiss, Dutch and French. We enjoyed drinks at the yacht club and were questioned whether we were true sailors after stopping at 1 🍺 (to their 5!)
    The boatyard has a huge number (1000) of boats on land here in various states of seaworthiness, including 1 each from Quebec and Halifax! Catamarans seem to be the most common. The town has a harbour full of boats and there is another huge boatyard down the road. The town is typically French: shops close over lunch and on Sundays.
    Experiencing today's terrifying wind, I'm beginning to wonder whether canal cruising and stopping at cafes/pubs is the life for me?!    もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    2

    What a difference...

    2023年4月19日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Waking up Monday morning was a dream as the wind had dropped and it was calm and quiet! No howling, screeching, whistling wind, no whitecaps on the water and the boat was steady and level. We were able to get so much done in one day: both sails on, reconnected the bilge pump, swabbed the deck of salt and grit, rebuilt and installed the windvane and installed the depth sounder/speedometer. This last exercise required us to remove a plug in the bottom of the boat letting the sea 🌊 in 😬 and replacing the plug with the instrument. I expected a geyser to shoot upward soaking and blinding us while the boat filled...but it flowed in gently to sea level and we plugged it without difficulty and only a bit of water to sponge up.
    We've met a lovely 🇬🇧 couple and have shared 2 evenings and a game of Mexican train. They are heading west in their catamaran to the Canal de Midi up to Bordeaux and we are heading East. We'll share 1 more evening tomorrow with them and their guests. We are awaiting 2 deliveries then we'll set off towards Marseille provided Le Mistral wind doesn't blow again!    もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    leaving boatyard, Port-Saint-Louis
    Arriving Anse du Verdon (tall white tower)1

    We're off!

    2023年4月23日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    After waiting a week for packages, it turned out 1 hadn't been sent and the other was stuck in a FedEx warehouse 😡! We decided to set off. The sun was shining and the wind was light so off we went with our dinghy towing behind. The Golfe de Fos is a large industrial gulf with freighters anchored on one side and on the other, mussel farms and shellfish cages. We sailed out to the Mediterranean to a little cove, Anse du Verdon, where we anchored mid afternoon. The beach was filled with people swimming (sea water temp 19C! 🥶) and paddling and walking along the limestone rocky fjord. 2 other boats were anchored but left late afternoon. Perhaps it was a sign we should have followed! We were protected from the increasing wind💨 but not from the swell. We had dinner and we were rewarded with a beautiful evening sky and its reflected colours. The clear night was full of 🌟 with a crescent 🌙 as we rocked, rolled and swung around our anchor! 😬😖🥱もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    1

    Rockin' rollin', swingin', oh Marseille!

    2023年4月24日, フランス ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    As we rolled, rocked, and swung on the anchor in Verdon, I kept watch as Bob slept unperturbed😴 while sleeping sideways to keep from rolling! We had agreed to keep watch in case the anchor dragged, but it turned out I was the only one who kept watch🧐😡! I stayed up until 0500 hrs. watching the moon set, the constellations drift, and the harbour lights flicker, ensuring we weren't ending up on the beach or the rocks. After sleeping a couple of hours🥱, we got organized to sail to Marseille. The clear blue sky and glorious sun were deceiving as there were weather warnings of swells and winds💨 +50 kms! Bob said, "It'll be fine; it's all downwind." 😬🙄We hauled the dinghy aboard and set the mainsail double reefed (smaller) and headed out. As soon as we got out of the harbour and into the swells🌊 and wind, we realized it was too much sail, took down the mainsail, and let out a small portion of the jib. In spite of locking things down below, there were doors swinging and banging and canisters falling from the shelves creating a small mess of scattered containers and food. I secured things, and once we turned downwind, it was relatively smooth surfing! The wind howled, whistled, and moaned along with boat creaks, sail flapping, and alarms warning of +25 knot winds. Unsettling, so Bob steered and I watched the coastline. The coast has small communities dotted along the limestone cliffs worn away by wind and waves. Otherwise, it's quite scrubby looking, and the houses seem to blend in even with their faded red roofs. After 4 hours and only seeing 1 other sailboat,  a freighter, and a cruise ship, on went the motor, we rolled the sail in and came towards the harbour. We looked for the conspicuous landmarks - Notre Dame high on the hill, 3 church domes near the water, and the Fort tower to lead us past the piers and the buoys. Relief! I had another moment of panic when the Capitainerie asked if we had a reservation...but he found us a spot. The harbour is packed with boats without finger docks between, so reversing in is necessary to make it easier to get off. Fortunately, our neighbours had lots of bumpers to fend us off, and Bob did an excellent job squeezing us in. After a tidy up and a late lunch, we walked around the harbour that was bustling with people, cars, motorbikes, bicycles, and ferries coming and going. Nous sommes arrivés!もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    Port MiouHighest cliff along the Mediterranean coastline

    Marseille and beyond

    2023年4月29日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After spending 4 nights in Marseille with some daytime visits to churches, forts, museums and bakeries, we sailed off for Port Miou. The sailing was a mixed bag of tacking, motorsailing then reefing (too tilty!) and finally an easy comfortable tack to the harbour. The coastline has steep limestone cliffs with crags, holes, pinnacles and ridges with pine trees growing from the crevices at gravity defying angles. The entrances to the Calanques (fjords) are well camouflaged until another boat appears seemingly out of the rock wall! There were mooring balls for us to tie up to fore and aft but other boats had to tie up to rings in the rocky wall either by paddling their dinghy over or swimming! We watched the comings and goings of boats in and out and kids jumping from the cliffs into the clear, cold water. The night was so different from Verdon 😁! In the morning, we hopped into the dinghy and motored up the harbour which goes far back and is full of boats. We headed back to the Calanques outside Port Miou and ran out of gas halfway! 🤦‍♂️🤦🏻‍♀️Bob rowed us back to Sea la Vie where we filled up and set off again. I'm sure the hikers on the cliff were laughing at us! There are lots of hikers, kayakers, stand up paddlers and, near the beach, rock climbers. 😬 We took a hike then set off sailing. Interestingly, the geology changes from the white limestone west of Cassis to brown rock full of striations and recesses east of Cassis, and the hills become forested. It was lovely sailing and motoring to Île des Embiez where we anchored off the beach. The island was built up by Paul Ricard (liquor) and it has a marine research centre, aquarium, and is a nature reserve. The flora is beautiful. The harbour and shops around it are lovely, clean and well maintained. A desirable and popular place to visit even in a misty overcast day.もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    From Fort Agathe, 1 of 11 forts!our anchorage off the beach11By-the-wind-sailor, called Vilella Vilella, I caught in my colander!millions of these Vilellas between Porquerolles and Saint Tropez

    Ile des Porquerolles to Saint Tropez

    2023年5月1日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A beautiful beach and anchorage. We met 2 other Canadian boats/people from Quebec!
    Île des Porquerolles initially colonised by Greeks then Romans. In the 16th century, criminals could seek asylum/immunity but many became pirates! That plan was later abolished.
    The area is a nature reserve with lovely hikes through pines, myrtle,cork, chestnuts and eucalyptus and the waters are a marine reserve. Idyllic.    もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者

    Saint Tropez, ooh la la!

    2023年5月2日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Mega yachts and racing yachts galore. Huge yachts with fenders/bumpers taller than me and dressed with fabric covers! When Bob asked where to dock our dinghy, the Capitainerie asked how big is it...really, 2 meters is of no consequence! 🤣 So we docked beside a 31 meter yacht, Blue Bird, built in 1938 for Sir Malcolm Campbell. A busy place with restaurants lining the port, all with white table cloths, fine china and offering champagne. Of course, €€€€€.もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者

    Saint Rafael

    2023年5月3日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We sailed up to Saint Rafael after our dinghy visit to Saint Tropez yesterday. It's actually much prettier than Tropez as the town is on a huge, lovely beach with a promenade, and the French requisite: a ferris wheel and carousel. There are 3 marinas and after stopping in one, had to move to another. Disappointing as the showers were cold and the electrical connection didn’t work! But we needed to stay as we had to train back to Marseille and didn’t want to leave the boat at anchor all day. But that’s another story...もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    Île Saint Marguerite, Fort Royal

    CANNES 👎

    2023年5月4日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    The sail up to Cannes was lovely passing gorgeous villas and yachts anchored including a 60 meter with a slide into the water off the bow! We anchored off the old port of Cannes for a quick look-see and grocery shop. There was so much construction going on as they are prepping for the Film Festival next week. We rowed over to a jetty but were told we could not stay as it's under construction and part of a hotel. So we rowed to the corner of the beach by the Palais des Congress where they were erecting canopies and tents for the Festival. A security guard let us through and we wandered past the mega yachts being polished, washed, and scrubbed, and along the hotel strip where hotel guests can rent a sunbed on the beach for 25€ and eat a slice of cheesecake for 20€! People were lined up to take a selfie while on the red carpet entrance to Palais des Congress! The cafés and restaurants were full ( a Norwegian cruise ship was anchored) and the town was glossy, shiny, polished. We grocery shopped and stopped at the boulangerie where I was reprimanded for touching the glass case showing the pastries.
    We walked back to the area where we had our dinghy, alerted the security guard who let us through, and walked down to the dinghy pulled up on the beach. The guard suddenly appeared and started a French diatribe that we weren't supposed to be there, this was an expensive beach for guests, we were tourists, and she was calling the police/security. Bob tried to explain and she walked away while calling for backup and wouldn't let us leave. This was the same woman who let us through! Fortunately, calmer heads prevailed and the 2nd security who came along just told us to leave and not come back as we were tourists, not guests. Perhaps they thought we were refugees in our rowboat? 🤣
    We rowed back and motored to Île Saint Marguerite, an island just off Cannes, and anchored for the night.
    For all its shine and gloss, it's a veneer that covers an unwelcoming attitude unless you are part of the wealthy, mega star elite. Disappointing.    もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    sunrise on Île Saint Marguerite
    17th century Fort RoyalChapel in Fort Royalour anchorageNice harbour with airport on the leftGorgeous villa coming into Villefrancheour view in the anchorageour anchorage view

    Île Saint Marguerite to Villefranche (Ni

    2023年5月5日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    After our hasty exit from Cannes, we motored a very short distance to Île Saint Marguerite where we anchored for the night. There is a 17th century Fort Royal where the "Man in the Iron Mask" was imprisoned. His identity has never been established and the mask was apparently velvet. The anchorage was lovely and quiet with a few small power boats there for the afternoon and 5 sailboats for the night. Bob rowed us ashore in the morning and we walked through the pine and oak forest to the Fort. We had seen lots of kids on a small beach and there they were having breakfast outside after sleeping at the Fort! The French version of our outdoor school! We continued walking around the island then returned to our boat with me rowing us back. Lovely clear turquoise water. As we sailed towards Nice, we saw a large school of big fish jumping and splashing and a flock of birds flying and diving above them. No idea what they were but there were fishing boats nearby. As we were cruising towards Nice, there were planes overhead about every 2 minutes. As Nice is the 3rd largest city in France, it's no wonder. The runway runs along the water so we had a good view of comings and goings. We had a slight disagreement about whether to go the marina in Nice or to an anchorage just beyond. I wanted to do laundry and I knew the marina had facilities. Bob thought we could anchor and go by dinghy to the marina in Villefranche. Which we did but arrived 10 minutes after the Capitainerie closed. 🤦🏻‍♀️😡 The town centre and another laundrette are up a steep 10 minute climb so I gave up. Dirty for another day. ugh. A Celebrity cruise ship was at the entrance to the anchorage and, unbeknownst to us until later, was blocking the swells. They left and the rocking, rolling, up, down, swinging began! Bob put out another anchor to keep us lined up but the wind shifted all night so he was up adjusting and sleeping between shifts. I was just up. The night was neither happy, nor clean, nor restful! We had decided we were going to Corsica, a 95 mile journey, so set the alarm for 5 a.m. I needn't have bothered with the alarm!もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    Departing Villefranche with a full moon
    sunrise1gourmet(?!) lunch on the govilella vilellaCorsica and that is snow!Sea Cloud Spirit1sunset (our first unobstructed view)

    Corsica, on arrive!

    2023年5月6日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We started at 5 a.m. with a full Flower moon and the wind about 10 knots outside the anchorage. Bob raised the anchors, 1 by hand, the other by electrics, then off we motored until the sun came up. There were some minor swells and waves but comfortable. When the sun came up, we double reefed the main and were sailing at 6.5 - 8 knots. It didn't last though as the wind started to slow so we motor sailed then motored. We were alone on the sea as the only 2 nearest boats were 25 and 40 nautical miles away. We could still see the French coastline after 25 n.m. and 3 1/2 hours but we didn't see Corsica until 5 1/2 hours later (and only because it's so mountainous and with snow!) and it was another 7 1/2 hours before we docked! 3 times we saw an interesting fin out of the water that looked like it was waving at us and I finally figured it must be a seal flipper. More vilellas in huge patches floating along and 2 dolphins paid a visit. Strangely, no birds. At 1500 hrs. Captain Bob announced that after traveling North we were now at our most Southern point to date! Woohoo!
    The sun was setting and we could see conspicuous buildings on the land. A Club Med ship and a square rigged cruise boat set off from Calvi. The lights on the coast twinkled on, the lighthouse flashed and we motored into Calvi, Corsica, after almost 17 hours. Arriving to a new harbour is always challenging but doing it in the dark is even more so. It's easy to confuse lights in the town and harbour with navigation lights but our chart, Bob's sense of direction and following a distant boat ahead made it relatively stress free. We docked with the help of a boatload (12) of Czech🇨🇿 kids on a scout sailing trip! It was Saturday night at 10 p.m. and the music and lights on the harbourfront were at full volume and power! The dj /bands were playing English speaking covers, even Abba! We both showered then fell into bed after a long day and a sleepless night before. Lovely to be in a calm harbour. 😴    もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者

    Calvi, Corsica

    2023年5月7日, フランス

    Our day in Calvi was a mixture of chores and touring. I got my laundry done, woohoo, and met an Australian couple in the laundromat, who are visiting Corsica then off to walk a section of the Camino for the 3rd time! You meet interesting people doing laundry! Went to the grocery store since they close early on Sunday then we walked the harbour front and stopped for lunch. Later, we walked to the Citadel where there are apartments inside the walls. Wandered out to the point along a cliffside trail then up to the top. Back along the streets and shops. Calvi reminds me a little of Guernsey with the harbour right in front of the town. Unfortunately, the music was LOUD again and lasted until 1 a.m., despite it being Sunday night. Bob and I wondered who the djs were catering to since we've mostly seen gray hairs👩‍🦳🧑‍🦳 like us here! Even so, it was lovely to get into clean pjs and sheets!もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    Swabbie Bob
    leaving CalviCalvi Citadel as we're leavingCap CorseIsland off Cap Corse

    Calvi to Macinaggio (west to east side)

    2023年5月8日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We didn't intend to go north around Cap Corse this day, notorious for its wind and waves, but we were lulled by the calm sea, light winds and warm sunshine...HA! As we got closer to the cape, the wind increased, as did the swells so we double reefed the mainsail in anticipation. What was supposed to be a short jaunt up the coast ended up being 10 hours and around the cape! The west coast is mountainous and rugged with few communities and few harbours. So we decided to keep going and into a marina on the east, Macinaggio. The wind had completely switched from blowing from the west to blowing from the southeast. 2 dolphins jumped beside us, which I think of as a good omen. We motored into the calm water of the marina before sunset but the wind was still blowing us. I think Bob is training me to be an Olympic standing long jumper. He keeps telling me to jump onto the dock below, with the lines, while we're a meter away, and moving!😬🤯🥺😡
    It was what we call "amateur" as our lines were not clear so there was a lot of pulling and wrapping and tying and switching before we got locked down and secure Whew! Anchoring is a lot less stressful than docking but not necessarily calm. Docking vs anchoring...always advantages and disadvantages to both. Naturally, the wind dropped later and it was a calm and quiet night. 😴    もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    Macinaggio
    cliff walkislet, we'd passed it the day before coming inventuring in...first swim!

    Town, trails and beach

    2023年5月9日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A lovely day walking through the very small town of Macinaggio, along the beach and up the hills. This area has rolling hills and beaches between. There are lots of hiking trails so we wandered inland after crossing the town beach (where we might have anchored) then came above the next beach over. We came back along the sea cliffs - a very rocky path and back to the town. We decided to go in the dinghy to the other beach. The dinghy is folded up like a surfboard so there is a bit of work required to set it up: unfold and prop open, put the 3 seats in, lift it into the water and Bob puts the engine on while balancing. It's quite heavy without the engine so we use a halyard with me cranking the winch💪 while Bob steadies it. Off we went, passing some jellyfish, to see an islet with a tower and then to the beach where there is a beach bar/cafe. The bar was busy and there were others sunbathing, walking, a group of hikers setting off, and a few swimmers but by no means was it crowded. I eventually got my nerve up and ventured in. It was refreshing and lovely and the day was hot enough not to feel cold when we came back motoring in the dinghy. A fun day.もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    between Macinaggio and Bastia
    survival trainingNapoléonSaint John the Baptist ChurchCalm Vieux Bastia!

    Another day, another docking disaster.

    2023年5月10日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We got up early to be at the fuel dock when it opened at 0800 hrs. and to get an early start to Bastia even though it's a short distance. The wind started out at 14 knots so we set off with a reefed main and a partial jib. The wind got shifty and slowed so we motorsailed. The sea swells were from the SE and the wind shifted to W so the waves were mixed 🤢. Nestled on the hillsides, in varying shades of green, are houses, communities, vineyards, and olive groves. Looking at those houses on the mountainsides, I always wonder how far someone has to go to get milk! As we got closer to Bastia, the wind came whistling and howling down the mountainsides and our +25 knot wind alarm kept sounding. We went into the 1st little harbour recommended as an all weather safe harbour and were told they were full, even though we could see empty spaces. 😡👎That would not happen in Holland or Atlantic France as they let you raft up. In the Mediterranean, they want to pack as many boats in so boats go stern in to the dock with a mooring line off the bow and no finger docks between. So we went back out and down to the vieux port of Bastia where the water was calm but the wind was still blowing 25 knots. As we neared the quay, we realized there was a ledge jutting out just under the water! Reversed quickly then turned and went stern in with me jumping on the quay to attach stern lines. I enlisted a couple passing by to hold lines but now the boat was being blown sideways onto the quay! There was a flurry of leaping on and off, a gathering of bumpers and pulling of lines to get us perpendicular to the quay. We ended up with 2 heavy duty mooring lines attached to cement blocks under water and 3 dock lines on the windward side and 2 on the other to hold it against the wind! We joked later that it would be tough to explain to the insurance co. how a boat sank in a marina! 🤷‍♀️ We were secure, and doubly so when the wind calmed that evening to nothing! 🤦🏻‍♀️
    With the wind still howling, a group practicing survival skills leapt into the water beside us. We didn't see them climbing into the liferaft but I'm sure it was challenging in that wind! We went for a wander, passing Napoléon's statue made to resemble Jupiter, and visited the the biggest church in Corsica built in 1636 with a pulpit made of marble and an organ loft built to resemble the stern of a ship. We made plans for the next day's train adventure to Corte, in the mountainous centre of Corsica. A stress free night.👍    もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    vineyard
    Snow on the mountains!Corte and the Citadel left of the VCitadel walls and a sheer drop!

    Train adventure

    2023年5月11日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today was a land adventure day to the middle of Corsica, a town called Corte, on a narrow gauge train. It travels along the coast making lots of stops then turns inland and up in the mountains past vineyards, and olive groves and small communities. There are 19 mountains taller than 2000 meters on Corsica! The Citadel of Corte is one of 7, is the only one built inland, and was started in 1419. It's built upon a rock above the town and is also called the "Eagles Nest". In 1769 the building of the Citadel continued. There is an anthropological museum of Corsica at the Citadel and the town of Corte also has a university! We had our last French meal (at least until we return to Paris to fly home!) at a restaurant around vieux Bastia. Bob says he's had his fill of moules frites and it's time to move on to Italian food 🍝🍕🍰🍨!もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    raising the flagNorthwest side of ElbaNorth side of PortoferraioPortoferraio's many ferries

    Au revoir France, ciao Italy!

    2023年5月12日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Our departure from Bastia was completely different from our arrival: we undid all the lines and drove out! No fuss, no bother, no wind! 😀 We set off for Elba in the sunshine with a little wind so set the sails but kept the motor on. Close to 2 hours later, we could see the mountains on Elba and Bob removed the French flag and raised the Italian courtesy flag. As we cruised along the north side of Elba, the wind switched and brought with it a spectacular lightning and thunder storm 🌩⛈. We anchored in a calm bay protected from the north wind...until it switched to west with stronger winds and waves! So, we lifted the anchors and decided to go around the corner to Portoferraio where we could either anchor or go into a marina, weather depending. It was pouring with rain, wind and waves, and lightning and thunder above us but as we got closer to Portoferraio, the sun appeared, the bay was calm, so we anchored amongst other sailboats. It stopped raining but there was still flashes of lightning all evening and into the night. We did 2, in the dark, "anchor dances" where we lift the anchor and reset it because it's dragging, and finally got a good hold. We had our GPS coordinates so checked that they hadn't changed over time. Bob was sleeping 😴 soundly as I did a final check and fell asleep to the gentle rocking and quiet.もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    dinghy opened up and lifted
    walk up to Fort Falconeview over the town and inner harbourlooking westfledgling seagullsailboat races around the island

    Portoferraio to Porto Azzurro

    2023年5月13日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After a swinging on the anchor but a calm night we took the dinghy into Portoferraio for a walk around the town and up to Fort Falcone, a seaside fortress built between the 16th -18th centuries. Lovely views of the town, bays and beaches. We picked up some pastries, not so different from French, and motored back to Sea la Vie. We headed North again (!) but as we rounded the corner, Captain Bob announced we are heading south from now on! We are not at our furthest (Calvi) but soon, maybe tomorrow! Sadly, the weather was not southern like (or like Vancouver apparently) as it was cloudy, cool and rained off and on. We motorsailed past ferries coming and going (they are constant!), the Italian mainland town of Piombino, only a few nautical miles away, and sailboats in Saturday afternoon races. It was only 17 n.m. to Porto Azzurro on the east coast of Elba but the weather made it feel longer. We anchored in a sheltered bay in front of a lovely hotel and beach, across from the Citadel and the town. A few other boats came and went in the anchorage with one boatload swimming! The rain stopped and it was a quiet night but cool and damp. I was wanting our plug in heater but a hot water bottle sufficed.もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    anchored off this hotel beach
    Porto AzzurroCitadel, Porto Azzurrowalled town, Talamone

    Mother's Day

    2023年5月14日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We had a lovely calm night and instead of going into Azzurro, we/Captain Bob decided we should get an early start at 7:30! The day was lovely in that we had a decent wind from behind so we motorsailed and sailed down to Talamone on the mainland. Not much to see along the way as we were far enough out so our view was of sun, clouds, waves, distant islands and shores. The sun was shining and the seas were with us so it was calm, and peaceful. The typical pattern is for the wind to increase in the afternoon and, right on schedule, it started blowing as we were coming into Talamone bay. We were anchoring so it was not a problem and our anchor dug in as the 22 knot wind swung us around. Bob suggested that taking the dinghy off the foredeck would reduce the windage and lessen the swinging. So, Bob made a cradle using lines, directed the aim and I winched it up 💪. As I was lowering it to the water, the cradle lines shifted, the boat went vertical into the water and filled up! The seats were still above water and Bob was holding it so I grabbed a bailing pot and climbed in and started scooping hoping it wouldn't list too far and send me overboard! The water actually felt quite lovely but I wasn't prepared to take a dip! Once the bailing was done, I requested a cocktail, in a fancy glass, with my favourite chips! The kids called so the day was a success. ❤The entertainment was watching windsurfers and kite surfers zip around the bay at incredible speeds in the wind. Eventually the wind calmed and it was a peaceful night.もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    From the Citadel in Talamone looking NW
    departing Talamonespectacular places on the edges of cliffs1sunset at Riva di Traiano (Civitavecchio)

    Talamone to Civitavecchio

    2023年5月15日, イタリア

    We were up early and hoped to find a grocery store for supplies so we hopped into the dry dinghy 😉 and Bob rowed us ashore. It was before 0800 so we wandered around the walled town, the Citadel and popped into a church. The little grocery store didn't have much that we needed but we managed to get the essentials: 🧀 and 🍷! We set off motoring past lovely villas, hotels, terraced gardens and spectacular cliffs. The sails went up and the rest of the day was further out so not too much to see. The wind and swells kept increasing and we reduced sail and surfed along. Not unlike the day to Marseille but not as wild! Civitavecchia is a major cruise port and we saw 4 cruise ships, 1 ferry and 1 riverboat cruise ship. There were also a number of freighters anchored out. We went into a marina a bit further on. Fortunately, it was calmer in the harbour and there was a fellow directing us to a spot and helping us to dock stern in with a mooring line at the bow. What a relief that I didn't have to do any leaping! It was a long 9 hour day so we got settled, had a drink then walked along the harbour to find a restaurant for dinner...and everything was closed!😪😡 We walked back to the boat wondering what we could eat for dinner besides the cheese and wine. I found a can of ratatouille, sliced the last of the bread and made salad. It sufficed. I was prepared to be disappointed at the facilities but found they were spacious, clean, with 🔥 water and a normal shower head. It felt luxurious! My mood improved considerably! However, I find it baffling that there were a number of restaurants, cafes, bars and boating stores at the marina but no grocery store and everything was closed! We used to joke on our bike trips that Mondays in Germany were always "ruhetag" /closed so maybe it's the same here! The wind continued its 20 knot blowing with a bit of rain but with a spectacular sunset and we called it a day's end.もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    art on the Tiber?
    boats rafted up and down the rivercat beds at the marina

    A walk on the wild & thorny side😡😬

    2023年5月17日, イタリア ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    After a bit of a rocky night due to swells in the marina, we set off for Fiumicino(Rome). We motorsailed downwind and it was lovely as the weather improved, the wind was about 10 knots and we were moving with the swells. We could see planes coming and going from Rome's Airport as we neared the entrance to the Tiber River. With swells behind us, we surfed into the entrance reminiscent of Cap Breton but less wild as the entrance is wider and the wind and swells not as strong. Up the river there are boatyards all along and boats rafted 4 deep. We rafted up at a funky little marina with goats on the island across and numerous cats at the marina. A small problem tying up after catching our bumper on someone's bow anchor but a number of people leapt across boats to help. After our late lunch, we set off walking to town following Google maps for the best route. A 3.4 km walk we thought, except there are no sidewalks and no shoulders and the roadside bushes were full of thorns! The traffic was busy and when cars were coming too close to the edge, we'd leap into the bushes! We made it after an hour and said we'd bus back. Well, after a long and tedious Sim card installation requiring a passport (didn't have it but found a picture on the phone) and the repetition of a sentence in Italian (!) acknowledging who Bob was (dialect coaching required), we wandered around trying to find the right bus. It's now coming on 6 p.m. after a full day; the bus wasn't coming and there were no taxis available. So we set off walking a different route and ended up walking through a field of tall weeds and grass. When we finally got back to the boat at 7:30, I was covered in burrs, scratches and had thorns in my underwear! 🤯😖
    We were happy to eat, drink 🍺 shower🚿 and fall into bed. I don't think we'll forget that walk anytime soon!    もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者

    A night visitor

    2023年5月18日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A good sailing day from the River Tiber requiring a number of tacks and we arrived at Anzio just before dinner. The harbour didn't look very busy so we went stern in between 2 others. A man came to help although shouting in Italian was not helping! An American couple was walking past and struck up a conversation. When the Italian told us €80 for the space but no toilets, showers or security, the American started negotiating on our behalf. In the end we were told it's the city's price so we decided to anchor outside the harbour off the beach. It was roly poly but we've had worse! At 9:15 p.m., we saw lights, heard an engine and whistling beside us. Bob went out to investigate and it was the Guardia coming to check our papers. We were in our pjs! The 3 men were very polite and friendly although translations were somewhat confusing - when asked how much cash we were carrying, Bob thought they were asking for the value of the boat! Bob received a very surprised look from them then finger rubbing gestures and pocket pointing cleared up that misunderstanding! After 30 minutes and a 3 page document completed, they left. We thought it was interesting/coincidence/suspicious that we got checked after refusing to pay the expensive harbour fee 🤷‍♀️. Who knows and no harm done.もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    Spring in Italy????
    Monte Circeoancient walls, hotels and villas and scary roads!our anchorage at Serapo beach, Gaeta

    Anzio to Gaeta and another visitor

    2023年5月19日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    After another roly poly night, we set off before 0800. I was happy to get moving. We set off along the coast which is very low with beaches backdropped by green hills and rocky mountains. We noticed a power boat without any markings on it coming up quickly behind us. More Guardia we wondered? Sure enough, the boat came within shouting distance to tell us we were in a military firing range zone! He asked where we were going and gave us a heading to maintain for 2 n.m. then we could carry on. It proved to be close to our heading anyway so no detour was required. We came to Monte Circeo, what used to be an island, and is where Odysseus lingered for a year under the spell of the enchantress, Circe, eating🥩 and drinking 🍷and enjoying her other attractions. There are massive walls of the ancient city of Circeii up the slopes of the mountain and lovely villas, and hotels on the rocky coast. The wind had picked up and the sun was finally making a comeback so we motorsailed avoiding logs floating ! 😬 From where, who knows! We came to the rocky promontory of Gaeta and decided to anchor off the beach beside the rocky cliff under ancient walls, a church and where the birds nest and swoop down to the sea. There were people swimming at the beach but before I could get organized to swim off the boat, it started sprinkling so I gave up the idea. It was calm and I could hear the water lapping against the rocks, the birds twittering and cawing and the church bells chiming. Lovely, and would be perfect without the rain!もっと詳しく

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  • SailingSealaVieSpring Fling into the Mediterr旅行者
    our calm anchorage
    Likeness? Bob and John Cabot

    What a difference a day makes...

    2023年5月20日, イタリア ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    After a calm night off Serapo Beach on the back side of Gaeta, we set out to round the promontory and go into the marina for laundry and info on summer storage. We rounded the corner into waves, swell and wind at 32 knots! We motored on thinking once we got to the harbour, all would be calm...no! Boats were rocking, bouncing and listing and we realized docking would be a nightmare so we headed back to the calm beach anchorage. It was a quick trip back! I was determined to get laundry done and stock up on groceries so we climbed in the dinghy and Bob rowed us ashore. We found the laundromat and grocery store, and walked into the marina. The staff were so welcoming and helpful and gave us info on where to eat and what to see. We took their advice and had a Gaeta special: a Tiella which is a savoury pizza pie with various seafood or vegetable fillings. We wandered around the medieval village and along the seafront in the light rain and wind. We got the laundry done and groceries bought and rowed back to the boat. As I told Bob, I am a low maintenance woman when I am prepared to row ashore to have clean and fresh smelling bedding and clothes, and that makes me happy! What didn't make me happy was that the wind direction was switching and the swells were coming in. It was Verdon/Villefranche/Anzio all over again! Bob slept on while I read until past 0300 when the rolling, rocking and bouncing lessened. Once again, when I woke up today, it was an opposite weather day!もっと詳しく

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