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A 17-day adventure by Powell Read more

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Trip start
August 17, 2023
morocco 23 Powell Ettinger
Essaouira language
August 17, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ 🌬 22 °C
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morocco 23 Powell Ettinger
Essaouira
August 18, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ 🌬 27 °C
Essaouira 2023 is much bigger than 1994 version. Beach area all built up and beach, like the rest of town, heaving with people but not on unpleasant way. Large percentage seem to be Moroccan tourists. Medina seems to have maintained its charm. Rows of small shops n cafes N restaurants selling stuff. Noticeably lots of sub Saharan artifacts, masks, mali doors etc. Some spectacular Thuya wood creations and quite a few paintings. Probably deserves a buying trip for stew gal.

Fish market quite something. Wasn't brave enough to buy fish and get it cooked by man with bbq.

Road Malaika excellent and food high restaurant level.Read more
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The journey to Marrakech
August 19, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 40 °C
Almost entirely across flat, hot, dusty plains. A few small settlements along the way, not a huge amount of interest - a very large cement plant on the way.
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The souks
August 20, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ 🌩️ 37 °C
The souks have been modernised a fair bit, but still as intriguing and fascinating as ever. Very little in the way of hassle at all which was very refreshing. Went early (10 ish) to avoid the heat, sans Kim who had had a chundering night. Made our way through the souk using brownian motion, and after a coke stop we visited the "Secret Garden". I reckon the price they charge for entry helps keep it a secret. Was nice, cool, and with a cafe and a few interesting bits and plants, but well over-priced.

Eventually found the blacksmiths souk - proper hot sweaty workshops with small men banging hammer on anvils and holding things over fires, all the the dark. More like what you hope for from a 15th century journey.Read more
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Dar Chibania
August 20, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 40 °C
Beautiful Riad in Medina but 20 minutes walk from Souk/ djma el fna. Excellent service too. 3 courtyards, roof terrace, lovely rooms, small pool often dominated by a (French/Italian?) family. Lots of cats to keep Caroline happy.Read more
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Foucauld Hotel and Berber cafes
August 21, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 38 °C
Expedition Foucauld Hotel. Trekked across the souk and Djmaa El Fna to the Foucauld Hotel, the old Exodus base from my trekking days, where I was based for most of 2 summers with some characters like Elgin Sharp (Animal), Phil Mansbridge (Bubka Mate), Mick Bromley and Cliff from Sherpa.

Looked dilapidated from outside, but open, so went inside. Desk man was Mustafa who I didn't remember, but he remembered the Exodus days and asked after David Gillespie and David Burlinson. Thami, the main desk guy from my days (Saddam Hussein lookalike) and Haj Ben Salim, the owner, both still alive and retired.

Dining room has been shut since covid, still has some of its old grandeur but needs lots of TLC and a new ceiling. Hotel still functions but i suspect not many tourists stay there now. Did venture up to the roof terrace to be reminded of what a splendid place this once was.

Afterwards headed to where I thought the old berber cafes were in search of lamb chops and chips. After much searching found something resembling one but it was disappointing - More touristy, very small portions, not much charm at all.Read more
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morocco 23 Powell Ettinger
Djma el Fnaa
August 21, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C
Saturday night in Djma el Fna. Absolutely humming. Totally vibrant but because it it rammed with Moroccans, not tourists - though many of them were probably Moroccan tourists.

Story tellers, snake charmers, cafes, juice bars, mint sellers, jugglers and musicians and bands all doing their stuff. Paul was enchanted - Kim was virtually assaulted by a very large Moroccan lady who grabbed her, drew some Henna on her hand while holding onto her very tightly, and then demanded something like £50 for 30 seconds unwanted attention.

Excellent tuk tuk ride home with stop for ice cream, and one for the driver.Read more
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Arous walk
August 23, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
First walk. Through valley, mostly orchards passed the 'smusher' (large new factory like building ' to Arouss valley. Then cut up over hill and back. A little scrabbly but a good little test to check fitness in heat.

The 'Smusher' is the apple juice factory. The whole Bougamez Valley is now dominated by apple orchards that appear to have created some wealth in the valley, and the apples are all sent to this smusher.Read more
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Achari
August 24, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
To visit my old friend Mohammed Achari. Haven't seen him for 30 years. Was difficult to find his house at first - it wasn't where I had remembered and also so many more buildings around it. We stopped and asked a few times for 'Achari's house' and everyone we asked knew where it was - he is obviously still a big cheese.

His youngest son, ......, met us at the door and showed us up to the balcony. It was a little emotional - Mohammed and i reminisced about a few of our mutual acquaintances, and he asked about Campbell (Mcdermid).

I gave him half a dozen black and portrait white photos that Helen had taken of our muleteer team, Cheffi, Mohammed Ben Ali, Said, Lahcen and Mohammed's nephew Yousef. Mohammed promised to deliver the photos to the team.

Apparently Said was a useless muleteer but so funny and entertaining they often took him along!

Mohammed's youngest son is studying tourism, his daughter is a teacher in France and the eldest son i thinks worked for a car company.Read more
TravelerSpecial
8/31/23Reply
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morocco 23 Powell Ettinger
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Hot walk
August 24, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Set out on a walk in search of the legendary throne - .Still couldn't find it - As I discovered later when talking with Mohammed Achari i was in the wrong valley, I needed to drop down to Ait Bouli and then head up to the pass from there. Still, a good walk with ever increasing views. A couple of Hoopoe down by the village. The day got hotter and hotter as naturally we had set off a little late but a shower or two in the afternoon cooled us down.Read more
Traveler Hoopoe !
8/31/23Reply
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Day 1 walk
August 26, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
We met out guide, Mohammed, and two muleteers, Ishmael and ................ and headed through the orchards to the very pretty village of Arouss (Helen and I had history here) before heading up the Arouss valley.

We had glimpses of the top of Mgoun while following a wide hot track up the valley. Eventually we came to a beautiful spot, Ikiss, where we found a little shop selling cold drinks and carves - I bought a Shesh for old times sake, but had to be reminded how to put it on.

Lovely campsite next to a small gite and some shepherds buildings, with quite a few threshing pans about (look like golf greens).

Took a siesta during a thunderstorm but had dinner in the open air with great views back down the valleyRead more
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Ikiss
August 26, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
The campsite at Ikiss - Thunderstorms, great views, a couple of Blue breasted rollers and 2 hoopoes.
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Day 2. Ikiss to pass and down to plateau
August 27, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
Early start from Ikiss up to the pass. Slow steady climb with the views becoming more spectacular the higher we went.

Was passed by a very happy shepherd carrying a goat down to market from a shepherd's settlement - the highest ones we saw. Amazing spot with atmospheric smokeyness and goats.

Saw a few nomads making their way up to the Mgoun plateau.

Reached the pass about 10Am, fuelled by dates and peanuts, and stopped for half an hour. Lovely clear blue skies, some goats on a nearby rockface, a few wondering donkeys. The mules caught and passed us at this point.

We then headed down the valley, a long long steady descent passed many sheep and goats, and quite a few ground squirrels scurrying through the rocks. Carrying on down through a small gorge before climbing up uje side of the valley and crossing a plain over a small ridge. Below the ridge stood a shallow bowl with what looked like an area that would occasionally form a small lake, but now held out tents - A very welcome sight as it had been a longer walk than expected.Read more
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Plateau campsite
August 27, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Fantastic campsite - seemingly used by a few others as there was a little litter and some toilet paper, we cleared up what we could.

Set in a shallow bowl with trees and mountains around, and a 2 minute walk to the edge of a cliff overlooking the whole Ait Bougamez a fantastic spot.

Large flock of Bee Eaters flew over us a few times.

As on other nights Ishmael and...... had made a great meal on the single gas cooker - always amazed me what the mountain guys can produce. Turkey tagine treat. Excellent.

Also the village below uses this as a route for its water pipes, bringing water down from high up the valley - and someone had installed a tap so a great spot for a quick douche.Read more
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Bougamez to kalaat Mgouna
August 27, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Traveler Fabulous
9/3/23Reply
Traveler This is like a painting
9/3/23Reply
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Plateau campsite 2 - more fotos
August 27, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
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morocco 23 Powell Ettinger
Kalaat mgouna
August 28, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
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Day three of trek. Plateau to Imarin.
August 28, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
After watching a bit of sunrise over Ait Bougamez we descened a spectacular path to the village before crossing the plain and cutting through the orchards to Gite Imarin.

At the Gite Paul, a bit too much sun methinks, asked for 'Hot water' in German when he wanted cold water (in French).

Cold drinks, showers, apple juice and lunch all taken before heading off on road over high passes.

Gite Imarin was excellent, and Ibrahim and his young lady helper couldn't have been more helpful. Nnothing was too much trouble, and the asnwer to every request was alwways yes. I gave the young lady a small tip for which she seemed very grateful, and it was trousered quicklyRead more
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Sahro cafe
August 29, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
After pectacular drive through mountains was surprised to find ourselves on tarmac road. After a short disatnce a sign to a cafe so we turned up narrow 'drive'. Drive roped off at end so has a Long reverse after turning off main road, and the gazelles opted to walk back rather than risk my reversing. Back on main road, 75 yards along and another turn into cafe to be told I should have just taken rope down!

Spectacular site for cafe, with amazing views. Also parking for camper vans and 1-2 rooms to stay in.

Chip butties with cheese and mayo - Glorious. Cats for Caroline to play with.

Comedy Old crone offering something for 50 dirhams for 'Hommes' in tiny dishevveled tent. Hate to think.

Cheesy chips n coke.Read more
wow [anne]
8/31/23Reply
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The road to Nkob
August 29, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
General confusion aas several new roads, none of which are marked on mao or in 'overland book'. After 1-2 false starts we headed into the hills on dirt road, which became more and more spectacular before climbing a set of switchbacks to a pass. Dramatic road, steep drops and then, to our surprise, tarmac and an amazing cafe (see seperate entry).

Descent to Nkob very spectacular with almost surreal scenery.Read more
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Nkob
August 30, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Aarrived in nkob and easily found Kasbah Imdoukal. Large Kasbah with very helpful matey peeps, small pool. No one else about. Beers ordered for roof terrace, but only 8 beers available, and no chairs on roof terrace.

Popped round corner foor excellent lamb kebabs and chips on small cafe roof terrace - Tinwafa cafe. Lamb kebabs and ships were excellent. Search of Nkob for ice cream failed.Read more
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Nkob to Skoura
August 30, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C
Original plan to drive along main road via Agdz ditched quickly when Riad man told us about new road across the mountains. So we set off on (what we thought was) the new road. Very spectacular climb into the mountains and some great scenery that prompted a new playlist to be put together on the hoof of cowboy music.

First 2/3rds of the drive were very spectacular, but after we followed a smaller track somewhere near Tagmount, the road deteriorated and it became hard going for a long (time wise) stretch. Still spectacular but enough already.

Only 2 enlivening moments were the spotting of a small chameleon crossing the road, and when Paul was driving over a sharp dip in the road and Kim couldn't see over the bonnet of the car that the road did go straight on, so she screamed as she thought we were plunging over the edge of a precipice.

Just as the road was getting very boring a large tarmac road appeared and whisked us to Skoura and our luxury (ish) hotel.Read more
Stunning....some aspects similar to Namibia ie the desert (! :)...but more mountainous [Anne]
8/31/23Reply
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Egypt, Tibet and Afghanistan
August 31, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Breakfast included unidentified smoked meat object - tasty but who knows. Then headed to Atlas Film studios. Guided tour from Driss Willis (allegedly) of some film sets and some items from films. Gladiator, The Mummy, Aterix and Obelix, Hercules (Watched a quick promo film for Hercules - Utter garbage). The big sets for Egypt and Tibet actually very impressive. A few camels wandering past and in the near distance a very impressive set from the Kingdom of Heaven.

They just finished Gladiator 2, but not much on the horizon. A lot of the sets thay have would now be created by CGI.

Went in search of Ice Cream as Paul's reward for seeing the camels first, then to Carrefour supermarket for wine (The Rabbi Jacob was in the house) and water. Chocolate also purchased but was in liquid form by the time we got back to Sawadi. Fended off the parking wallah who was asking for dirhams even though we never left the car. He did wave his arms at us as we pulled away to show us that the road was clear, but didn't merit any dirham.

Stopped in Skoura for lunch of lamb brochettes, but lamb was off so after a long wait chicken and beef skewers covered in larsley - Doh.

Driving back to Sawadi hotel across the Sawadi Wadi, realised we had to add three steps to heaven to the Moroccoplaylist.

Swim followed by pseudo miss world swim suit section from the french ladies.Read more
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Sawadi eco lodge
September 1, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
Buried deep in the palm groves the Sawadi eco lodge is an oasis. Pool, 4 acres of gardens, eccentric maitre D and charming matey peeps called Mansour.

A group of single (?) ladies all around the pool. French probably - Not sure of their purpose here but occasionally seemed like a middle aged miss world contest (with added) as they all posed together around the pool.

Mansour the fluting waiter with surprising English serenaded Caroline and I on his flute on the rooftop terrace as we watched the Blue moon.

Great meals but no wine - establishments in Morocco are allowed to serve alcohol under a special licence, but only the licence holder can buy the wine etc and the hotel owner was at home in Switzerland, so no wine available here. This prompted (really not the only reason) a trip to Ouazzarzate to the Atlas Film Studios, and the off licence!Read more
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Trip end
September 2, 2023