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  • Powell Ettinger

Romania

A 15-day adventure by Powell Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 13, 2022
    Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    Houses in bucharest

    August 14, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    First up, a guided tour of Ceaucescu's House in Bucharest. The obvious comparison is between the opulence of the Ceaucescu family home and the rest of the Romanian population. But it also illustrates what a dull life his family must have led.
    Also noticeable were the gifts from other (often) communist dictators. Decorated screen from North Korea, vases from Mao, huge carpet from the Shah or Iran, ivory from Mobutu, chess machine fro Gorbachev. .

    Also photos of family with surprising number of world leaders in addition to those above. The Queen, nixon, Carter, Castro, president of Germany, Bokassa, Kissinger, Mao, Ted Kennedy. . There must have been something about him that all of the above were happy to be seen with him.

    In contrast the open air 'House museum' in Bucharest is great. Someone with an amazing vision in 1930s decided to bring dozens of traditional houses from all over Romania and rebuild them in a park in Bucharest. How they found and transported the houses would be a great story. There are now more than 100 of these of many shapes and sizes, including few churches, old Mills, presses.

    The counterweight gate was fantastic, the sunken housed, the church and a lot of the carpentry were brilliant.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    Bucharest old town

    August 14, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Grotty in many senses of the word. Either dilapidated and covered in Graffiti or very touristy restaurants where the menu is mostly pictures of food, or girlie bars with music so loud Harpo Marx would complain. Or mix of all three. Didn't get into bucharest at all. Maybe there is nothing to get into. I won't hurry back.

    Only good bit was our hotel. The fantastic Grand Boutique Hotel. Highly recommended    Read more

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    Zarnesti train, wheeltapper and cricket!

    August 15, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Small 2 carriage train. Windows only open on 1 side. Bizarrely saw a game of cricket going on in a field by the tracks.

    An hour on Brasov station was a bit of a throwback to earlier days of railways. Shunting engines and a wheeltapper with a long handled hammer. Coupling an decoupling carriages and lots of men with flags and whistles.

    Update. Train back to Bucharest. Took photo of train engine. The driver looked outof the window and said 'Antika!'    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    Mountain hut applecake

    August 16, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Arrived in Zarnesti exactly on time and were met at the station by Cheery chappy Pensione owner and a lightly fat, unsmiley taxi driver, who it turned out would drive us t least 6-7 times in the next few days, and was really helpful - but we never even asked his name.

    Dropped at the Pensione where we spotted in the garen a large BBQ and undercover dining area - looked lovely, so after a quick frec=shen up we gathered in the garden in anticipation. Seemed slightly unusual that we would be eating with a man in a wheelchair and half a dozen other types, and the banners (We thought happy birthday but turned out to be the feast of Assumption) made us wonder.

    We were duly shepherded into a soulles dining room for a meal of hearty soup (Standard first course in all places visited) followed by pork stew and some cake, all OK but not what was hoped,

    We also had our first experience of Romanian waiting - your empty plate is whisked away as your last mountful touches your lips, and the next course put in front of you. As a result we had often finished our 7 pm meal at 7.20, leaving a long evening (with this case nothing to drink) to fill.

    So we wondered into town and found a cafe/pizzeria selling excellent looking cakes, so I indulged, and we drank the place dry of their non-alcoloholic beer. A local matey did tell us we could get a drink about 40 yards away in a house, and we could see several yoofs hanging around outside, occasionally zipping around town on the world's noisiect motor bike.

    We decided to save oursleves for the days ahead and retired.

    Next morning we were joined for our breakfast of white bread, salami and cheese by our guide, Andrea, who it turned out was as good a guide as we could have hoped for.

    Part time university lecturer in economics, fluent in English as well as a few other languages, and a dedicated outdoors type with a very good (English style) sense of humour.    Read more

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    Bear sanctuary

    August 17, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Libearty bear sanctuary, just outside Zarnesti, is set in 90 hectares of woodland. All the bears (118 when we visited) have been rescued from a variety of circuses, tiny cages at garages or cafes, and some private 'owners' are now living here.

    They are almost all allowed to roam the 90 hectares of woodland (securely fenced) ; the males are all sterilised as they have as many bears as they can cope with but more still arrive every year - including from Ukraine). They are fed every morning with food donated from supermarkets (bread, fruit, pizza, croissant etc) and can supplement their diets from the woodland.

    The Sanctuary is only open to the public for 2 hours per day and relies solely on visitors and donations for upkeep.

    They also have 2 wolves, 8 deer, some domectic animals and some turtles, all rescued.

    Each bear has a plaque with his/her name on - and there is a Seth - he gets around.

    Altogether a very impressive and worthy place, well run and with caring and thoughtful staff. https://millionsoffriends.org/en/libearty/

    The gift shop was crap though.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    To the meadows

    August 17, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Drove through the traffic of Bran and up a series of switchbacks to a large pensione (coke n cake) with splendid views. Set off walking - passed a lodge for sale with terrific views in all directions and into the woods . After a while emerged onto some meadows and a good lunch spot already inhabited by a couple of chaps who had just landed there after jumping off the PetrA Craiuli ridge with parachutes. Friends of Andrea of course. They had slept on the ridge in small hut overnight.

    Back through the woos and through very Austrian looking farmland to our lodge. GreT views, pretty farms, lush scenery and a newly built monastery.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    Bike ride

    August 18, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Hire bikes delivered to our lodge so, after a quick practice on e bikes we set off down the tortuous dirt road to Zarnesti. Andrea wen very slowly- too slowly- which was actually hard. Her mother hen side became very apparent. Kim was ordered to fall in behind Andrea as a 'learner ' but did manage to fall over at one point when stationary.

    Eventually reached Zarnesti and after a short ride o main road turned off to Vulcan. Very flat and suitable pointy ear jokes. Stopped in Vulcan for a breather and explanation about Saxon house style. Turned off and headed up long long hill. Andrea not comfortable, electric girls off miles ahead, me pedalling away and Paul M lagging a little. Mother hen uncomfortable and trying to be a cycling sheep dog which extended her physically to the limit.

    Eventually reached top at village of Holbav. Took a few minutes for Andrea to recover her breath and composure but ice cream and cold drink next to Collection of wildlife skins (bear, boar, cat..) and we were ready to go.

    Long downhill through village was best bit of the ride. More rural, old colourful houses and even a cart pulled by 2 oxen.

    Track became gravel/dirt and a very pretty valley. Turned off into side valley in search of a cave but we couldn't find it so too lunch by stream in shade.

    Back onto road and a stop in village without and a church. Tarmac reappeared as did cars and vans. Long long hot 'false flat' with a drink stop in hotel. 1 final climb over Small ridge (Andrea proved a point by leaving me floundering behind on the climb) and a fast downhill to Zarnesti.

    Taxis straight to Chocolate bar an beer before back to lodge for fantastic trout in garlic ad and polenta.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    Mihai and Rodica

    August 19, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Mihai and Rodica run the Hille Guesthouse in Magura - and it is te perfect illustration as to why the star system for accommodatio n is rubbish. There are no facilities (there is wifi), no TV is rooms, not tea and coffee machine, but you will struggle to find a better place to stay.

    Magnificent views is a fine start, and you notice these moments before, on arrival, you are greeted with a shot of home made plum brandy ( to be fair this is fairly universal in this part of the world) and maybe some cheese nibbles.

    But they are just a charming couple. Nothing is too much trouble. Aand the home cooking is magnificent. The fish and chips was fresh trout with a coating of garlic, pepper and polleta (i think) , and the chips were very herby.

    Dinner every night cnsisted of a soup course, lots of veggies with maybe pasta or veal. They were very aware of Caroline's Parsley allergy, but unfortunately added Loveage instead, which turns out to be from the parsley family, but stronger. Main course was stuffed pepper, or fish, or meat balls, or some other fresh local delicacy, and a home made pudding too - Mini doughnut, like Beignet, were my favourites, and washed down by (excellent) hoke made wine.

    We were joined on the 2nd night by a young (ish) chinese couple, Ke and Xu Xwei, who were also on a walking week holiday booked through Romania Active. They are both PHD students currently studying plant science in Germnay. Very unusual to meet independent Chinese travellers, and they were great fun. Good English, informative and a good sense of humor.
    Chocolate bar. Food sherry wine food.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    Ridge walk to Bran

    August 19, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Said goodbye to Mihai and Rodica after another top breakfast including cheese on toast - some of which were added to the surprisingly light lunches of 1 white bread cheese sandwich and an apple, which if you don't like white bread, cheese or apples isn't great for a full days walk, and if you are Caroline and don't like all three then........

    a short flat start passed the chocolate bar before an hours uphill to reveal magnificent views, across to the Bucegi mountains, back to Piatra Craiuli mountains and down to Zaenesti.

    a quick stop atop a rocky outcrop with fantastic views before undulating across the ridge through woods and across meadows accompanied by the whining calls of several buzzards and seeing hundreds of butterflies.

    After packed lunch in a meadow including a super sweet n juicy nectarine we descended through beautiful cool woods towards Bran.

     Paul slipped at one stage so Andrea moved him to position 2 for a while before reinstating Kim to the no2 spot.

    As we descended to Bran we met three large Romanians walking up the hill carrying shovels and a guitar case. This very dodgy looking expedition turned out to be a metal detecting trip looking for artifacts from some Austrian battle.

    Shortly before reaching Bran we got our first site of Bran (Dracula's) Castle so Kim and Paul enacted a quick Love bite.

    Bran was as overcrowded as expected so we found a quiet cafe for a minty lemonade and Caroline found a beautiful kitten (Sophie) who was very happy to be cuddled and stroked - One of the highlights of the trip for C.

    Our usual 2 drivers appeared and transferred us to Pensione Daniela in Moieciu de Sus. A reasonably standard Pensione (Austrian style) run by the lovely friendly Daniela and her rotund husband. Daniela spoke some French so comms were mostly in French.

    Paul and I had been fantasizing about big peices of meat and the site of a BBQ being lit got the taste buds going, before Andrea announced that we would be having cabbage rolls for dinner.

    To be fair, the cabbage rolls were very good (Award winning apparently) and stuffed with (pork?) mince.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    Walk to old woman's house

    August 20, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Buffet style breakfast, including a liver snack (not popular) and the usual cold meats and cheeseswith an egg choice. All good but lacks variety. 09.03 start walking, down the road a little and then up up nd away, across a patch where a lot of soft fruit had fallen so was swarming with bees, wasps and butterflies, and then up to a meadow with a lovely looking new Pensione with sauna, hot tub. Sat on patio with many many wasps and had a drink - Caroline on the beer at 10.15 AM. Up int the wods and aound a hillside or two before emerging near the hamlet/Resort of Fundata. Another area looking very Austrian apart from a few traditional houses, lots of very lush meadows, a few cows and a general feeling of wealth and well being.

    Arrived at Ms. Stoian's 100+ year old house. Ms. Stoian was at a funeral but had left us a plate full of 4 types of cheese, red peppers, some 'Speck' (basically pig fat, fresh juicy pork stracthings) and the inevitable plum brandy with fresh donuts to finish off. beautiful old house and out building available to sleep in - very very traditional, and a small display of traditional clothing.

    We counted at least 6 dogs as well as chickens, 1-2 cows, some sheep and 2-3 veggie gardens. All seems very idyllic, but Ms. Stoian is 71 and must be a hard life, even though a tarmac road has just been built to her drive. She gets some help from her son but does a lot on her own - Would be an amazing place to stay though.

    Carried on down the hill to Moieciu De Sus and stopped for a highly refreshing lemon and mint juice - with honey - in fact I had 2..

    On return to Danielas we spotted the suitcase of Shansuo and Ke. Andrea had been hinting heavily that we should look into Danielas weaving shop/museum with was interesting but not tempting.

    Joined Chinese fiends for dinner. Asked if they were married and Ke said, with perfect comic timing and a huge grin 'no. Because she said No!'.

    Andrea was heading off after dinner and said to call her if we needed anything- so 30 seconds after she had left us we texted her to order 3 beers. PM had already asked Daniela and Andrea texted back to say 'you have hem already.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    Transfaragas

    August 21, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The Top Gear road. Trouble is this has made it very popular. Very cloudy day but broke through the clouds at the top.

    Very spectacular road but lots of traffic and shite parking around the top so 1 bu causes a mile long traffic jam. Lots of tat shops too. Maybe should have gone to Transalpino instead.Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    Sibiu

    August 22, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Biggest surprise so far. City of half a million people on a main road route but the centre is fantastic. And large. Where the centre of bucharest was tacky and touristy Sibiu is classy and beautiful.

    All the manhole covers in town, at least the ones we saw, matched. All look like they are 100 years old but are dated 2007.

    And the houses have eyes.    Read more

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    Sighisoara - most overrated

    August 23, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    UNESCO world heritage town famous for its walled citadel and ancient towers. The citadel is dominated by tourist tat shops all selling the same dreadful tat and tourist restaurants selling chicken and chips.

    There is a very old covered staircase which is just as it sounds and none of the towers are open to the public as far as I could tell.

    Vlad the impaler was born here so plenty of Dracula tat available.

    Managed to find a half decent restaurant run by a couple of hipsters, one of which spoke like a geezer but had never been to UK. Meal slightly spoilt by chain smoking neighbour and 2 kids chasing a very small noisy kitten.

    Accommodation was very unusual. Tiny courtyard with a nice seatting area bedecked with bric a brac. Rooms were tiny, dark and also with bric a brac but surprisingly functional with mod cons.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    Cabana Berg

    August 23, 2022 in Romania ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Our base for three days. Amazing views. Need by Kosmina who lived in Worksop for 8 years. Hot tub and fantastic 'summer kitchen,.

    Very friendly dog that appears in the evenings and a wary ginger tom hangs around.Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    Hot sweaty walk

    August 24, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Long long breakfast on balcony and spotted a 'cabana' marked on google map about 1 hour way. On assumption this would be likely the apple strudel hut we followed Google directions to discover it was down on the main road. Still a decent walk through the village, stop for a magnum n drink before a very hot n sweaty climb back to Cabana Berg.

    Kosmina appeared bearing pancakes, jam, pears, honey and other goodies. Pancakes and jam demolished we retired to hot tub.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    Hot, steep and thirsty

    August 25, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Walk listed on All Trails next to nearby reservoir. After a short detour to a supermarket pharmacy parked near the top of a dam and headed into the woods along a wide track. Hot and uphill (didn't start walking until 12.30) but not unpleasant.

    Quick lunch on top with surprisingly quite a few other people walking by and around. A steep downhill with 2-3 excellent viewpoints over the lake.

    problem started arising that CW had minimal water, and only I had food. The walk back along was much longer than expected, and 1-2 scarbbly bits, and with quite bad dehydration and not much food to work on, most of the party thought it was a very difficult walk and much too long. My diagnosis is that lack of water and food, and starting at 12.30, were the main problems - I thought the walk along the lake was great!

    Anyway emergency drinks and Ice cream taken before return to Cabina Berg for BBQ and wine.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomaniaPowell Ettinger

    Brasov, twinned with Ballsout

    August 26, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Long drive to Brasov but roads, mostly motorway, very good so made good time. Route took us close to Turda and Cunta to Brasov.

    Dropped car - Paky (Real name Andrei) was extremely helpful - even gave me a lift to the hotel. Best car hire ever!

    A quick walk to the Communist Museum - What an excellent place. Consisting of many memories and mementos from the time Romania was under communist rule. Enlightening and depressing.

    Air Bnb very central, a little noisy and a bit hot with no air con. Can't have everything.

    Met Andrea for an excellent dinner at her favourite bistro. I ordered something in Romanian that, after some giggling between Andrea and the waitress turned out to be Pigs 'ladies Bits'. Very tasty and juicy pork steaks were sevred and eaten - Endless innapropriate gags about the food items. Moved outside for a Kaiserschmarm pudding, after which Andrea insisted on a late night walking tour of Brasov, including up the hill to the White Tower,. A lovely idea but very difficult with a huge Kaiserschmarm bloat. Slept on my back that night.

    Slept surprisingly well, and taxi to the station for the train - for some reason we go there an hour early.

    Amazingly Andrea appeared on her bike carrying a full breakfast and other goodies - What a star she is. Kept us going all day until flight back.    Read more

    Trip end
    August 27, 2022
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