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Romania

August 2022
A 15-day adventure by Powell Read more
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  • Powell EttingerRomania
    Day 2

    Houses in bucharest

    August 14, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    First up, a guided tour of Ceaucescu's House in Bucharest. The obvious comparison is between the opulence of the Ceaucescu family home and the rest of the Romanian population. But it also illustrates what a dull life his family must have led.
    Also noticeable were the gifts from other (often) communist dictators. Decorated screen from North Korea, vases from Mao, huge carpet from the Shah or Iran, ivory from Mobutu, chess machine fro Gorbachev. .

    Also photos of family with surprising number of world leaders in addition to those above. The Queen, nixon, Carter, Castro, president of Germany, Bokassa, Kissinger, Mao, Ted Kennedy. . There must have been something about him that all of the above were happy to be seen with him.

    In contrast the open air 'House museum' in Bucharest is great. Someone with an amazing vision in 1930s decided to bring dozens of traditional houses from all over Romania and rebuild them in a park in Bucharest. How they found and transported the houses would be a great story. There are now more than 100 of these of many shapes and sizes, including few churches, old Mills, presses.

    The counterweight gate was fantastic, the sunken housed, the church and a lot of the carpentry were brilliant.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomania
    Day 2

    Bucharest old town

    August 14, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Grotty in many senses of the word. Either dilapidated and covered in Graffiti or very touristy restaurants where the menu is mostly pictures of food, or girlie bars with music so loud Harpo Marx would complain. Or mix of all three. Didn't get into bucharest at all. Maybe there is nothing to get into. I won't hurry back.

    Only good bit was our hotel. The fantastic Grand Boutique Hotel. Highly recommended    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomania
    Day 3

    Zarnesti train, wheeltapper and cricket!

    August 15, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Small 2 carriage train. Windows only open on 1 side. Bizarrely saw a game of cricket going on in a field by the tracks.

    An hour on Brasov station was a bit of a throwback to earlier days of railways. Shunting engines and a wheeltapper with a long handled hammer. Coupling an decoupling carriages and lots of men with flags and whistles.

    Update. Train back to Bucharest. Took photo of train engine. The driver looked outof the window and said 'Antika!'    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomania
    Day 4

    Mountain hut applecake

    August 16, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Arrived in Zarnesti exactly on time and were met at the station by Cheery chappy Pensione owner and a lightly fat, unsmiley taxi driver, who it turned out would drive us t least 6-7 times in the next few days, and was really helpful - but we never even asked his name.

    Dropped at the Pensione where we spotted in the garen a large BBQ and undercover dining area - looked lovely, so after a quick frec=shen up we gathered in the garden in anticipation. Seemed slightly unusual that we would be eating with a man in a wheelchair and half a dozen other types, and the banners (We thought happy birthday but turned out to be the feast of Assumption) made us wonder.

    We were duly shepherded into a soulles dining room for a meal of hearty soup (Standard first course in all places visited) followed by pork stew and some cake, all OK but not what was hoped,

    We also had our first experience of Romanian waiting - your empty plate is whisked away as your last mountful touches your lips, and the next course put in front of you. As a result we had often finished our 7 pm meal at 7.20, leaving a long evening (with this case nothing to drink) to fill.

    So we wondered into town and found a cafe/pizzeria selling excellent looking cakes, so I indulged, and we drank the place dry of their non-alcoloholic beer. A local matey did tell us we could get a drink about 40 yards away in a house, and we could see several yoofs hanging around outside, occasionally zipping around town on the world's noisiect motor bike.

    We decided to save oursleves for the days ahead and retired.

    Next morning we were joined for our breakfast of white bread, salami and cheese by our guide, Andrea, who it turned out was as good a guide as we could have hoped for.

    Part time university lecturer in economics, fluent in English as well as a few other languages, and a dedicated outdoors type with a very good (English style) sense of humour.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomania
    Day 5

    Bear sanctuary

    August 17, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Libearty bear sanctuary, just outside Zarnesti, is set in 90 hectares of woodland. All the bears (118 when we visited) have been rescued from a variety of circuses, tiny cages at garages or cafes, and some private 'owners' are now living here.

    They are almost all allowed to roam the 90 hectares of woodland (securely fenced) ; the males are all sterilised as they have as many bears as they can cope with but more still arrive every year - including from Ukraine). They are fed every morning with food donated from supermarkets (bread, fruit, pizza, croissant etc) and can supplement their diets from the woodland.

    The Sanctuary is only open to the public for 2 hours per day and relies solely on visitors and donations for upkeep.

    They also have 2 wolves, 8 deer, some domectic animals and some turtles, all rescued.

    Each bear has a plaque with his/her name on - and there is a Seth - he gets around.

    Altogether a very impressive and worthy place, well run and with caring and thoughtful staff. https://millionsoffriends.org/en/libearty/

    The gift shop was crap though.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomania
    Day 5

    To the meadows

    August 17, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Drove through the traffic of Bran and up a series of switchbacks to a large pensione (coke n cake) with splendid views. Set off walking - passed a lodge for sale with terrific views in all directions and into the woods . After a while emerged onto some meadows and a good lunch spot already inhabited by a couple of chaps who had just landed there after jumping off the PetrA Craiuli ridge with parachutes. Friends of Andrea of course. They had slept on the ridge in small hut overnight.

    Back through the woos and through very Austrian looking farmland to our lodge. GreT views, pretty farms, lush scenery and a newly built monastery.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomania
    Day 6

    Bike ride

    August 18, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Hire bikes delivered to our lodge so, after a quick practice on e bikes we set off down the tortuous dirt road to Zarnesti. Andrea wen very slowly- too slowly- which was actually hard. Her mother hen side became very apparent. Kim was ordered to fall in behind Andrea as a 'learner ' but did manage to fall over at one point when stationary.

    Eventually reached Zarnesti and after a short ride o main road turned off to Vulcan. Very flat and suitable pointy ear jokes. Stopped in Vulcan for a breather and explanation about Saxon house style. Turned off and headed up long long hill. Andrea not comfortable, electric girls off miles ahead, me pedalling away and Paul M lagging a little. Mother hen uncomfortable and trying to be a cycling sheep dog which extended her physically to the limit.

    Eventually reached top at village of Holbav. Took a few minutes for Andrea to recover her breath and composure but ice cream and cold drink next to Collection of wildlife skins (bear, boar, cat..) and we were ready to go.

    Long downhill through village was best bit of the ride. More rural, old colourful houses and even a cart pulled by 2 oxen.

    Track became gravel/dirt and a very pretty valley. Turned off into side valley in search of a cave but we couldn't find it so too lunch by stream in shade.

    Back onto road and a stop in village without and a church. Tarmac reappeared as did cars and vans. Long long hot 'false flat' with a drink stop in hotel. 1 final climb over Small ridge (Andrea proved a point by leaving me floundering behind on the climb) and a fast downhill to Zarnesti.

    Taxis straight to Chocolate bar an beer before back to lodge for fantastic trout in garlic ad and polenta.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomania
    Day 7

    Mihai and Rodica

    August 19, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Mihai and Rodica run the Hille Guesthouse in Magura - and it is te perfect illustration as to why the star system for accommodatio n is rubbish. There are no facilities (there is wifi), no TV is rooms, not tea and coffee machine, but you will struggle to find a better place to stay.

    Magnificent views is a fine start, and you notice these moments before, on arrival, you are greeted with a shot of home made plum brandy ( to be fair this is fairly universal in this part of the world) and maybe some cheese nibbles.

    But they are just a charming couple. Nothing is too much trouble. Aand the home cooking is magnificent. The fish and chips was fresh trout with a coating of garlic, pepper and polleta (i think) , and the chips were very herby.

    Dinner every night cnsisted of a soup course, lots of veggies with maybe pasta or veal. They were very aware of Caroline's Parsley allergy, but unfortunately added Loveage instead, which turns out to be from the parsley family, but stronger. Main course was stuffed pepper, or fish, or meat balls, or some other fresh local delicacy, and a home made pudding too - Mini doughnut, like Beignet, were my favourites, and washed down by (excellent) hoke made wine.

    We were joined on the 2nd night by a young (ish) chinese couple, Ke and Xu Xwei, who were also on a walking week holiday booked through Romania Active. They are both PHD students currently studying plant science in Germnay. Very unusual to meet independent Chinese travellers, and they were great fun. Good English, informative and a good sense of humor.
    Chocolate bar. Food sherry wine food.    Read more

  • Powell EttingerRomania
    Day 7

    Ridge walk to Bran

    August 19, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Said goodbye to Mihai and Rodica after another top breakfast including cheese on toast - some of which were added to the surprisingly light lunches of 1 white bread cheese sandwich and an apple, which if you don't like white bread, cheese or apples isn't great for a full days walk, and if you are Caroline and don't like all three then........

    a short flat start passed the chocolate bar before an hours uphill to reveal magnificent views, across to the Bucegi mountains, back to Piatra Craiuli mountains and down to Zaenesti.

    a quick stop atop a rocky outcrop with fantastic views before undulating across the ridge through woods and across meadows accompanied by the whining calls of several buzzards and seeing hundreds of butterflies.

    After packed lunch in a meadow including a super sweet n juicy nectarine we descended through beautiful cool woods towards Bran.

     Paul slipped at one stage so Andrea moved him to position 2 for a while before reinstating Kim to the no2 spot.

    As we descended to Bran we met three large Romanians walking up the hill carrying shovels and a guitar case. This very dodgy looking expedition turned out to be a metal detecting trip looking for artifacts from some Austrian battle.

    Shortly before reaching Bran we got our first site of Bran (Dracula's) Castle so Kim and Paul enacted a quick Love bite.

    Bran was as overcrowded as expected so we found a quiet cafe for a minty lemonade and Caroline found a beautiful kitten (Sophie) who was very happy to be cuddled and stroked - One of the highlights of the trip for C.

    Our usual 2 drivers appeared and transferred us to Pensione Daniela in Moieciu de Sus. A reasonably standard Pensione (Austrian style) run by the lovely friendly Daniela and her rotund husband. Daniela spoke some French so comms were mostly in French.

    Paul and I had been fantasizing about big peices of meat and the site of a BBQ being lit got the taste buds going, before Andrea announced that we would be having cabbage rolls for dinner.

    To be fair, the cabbage rolls were very good (Award winning apparently) and stuffed with (pork?) mince.    Read more

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