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Latin America 2021
  • Gemma Craig H
  • Gemma Craig H

Latin America 2021

Et 142-dagers eventyr av Gemma Craig Les mer
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  • Reisens start
    11. januar 2021
    Gemma Craig HLatin America 2021Gemma Craig H
    1

    Mexico Day 1 - Cancun Town

    11. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    After a long and delayed flight we finally arrived to our hotel at midnight local time - after watching a weird local TV programme which seemed like a mixture of Love Island and Takeshi's castle we settled for a well earned comfortable sleep!

    We set off early for a mexican breakfast at a place called '100% Healthy' which was definitely a questionable claim based on the volumes of cheese flying around! After surviving the confusion of being asked how I wanted my eggs cooked following what I thought was a perfectly spoken Spanish order we both enjoyed a delicious breakfast, a combination of eggs, tomato, cheese, ham, peas, cactus and who knows what else!

    We then set about sorting currency, local sim card and other necessities before a walk along a pathway surrounding a seemingly deserted development that we assume will be beautiful once finished but actually seemed like something from '28 days later' or central London on lockdown 3!

    We then wanted to try out some street food at a local park (Parques de Papales) and had empanadas which were ok but very greasy and we also had a platter of tacos/quesidillas and some of the spiciest dip you could imagine from El Rinconcito de Puebla a local restaurant.

    After all that food we managed to find a nice bar near our hotel called Hunters for a few drinks before heading back to the room.

    That evening we were both keen for some traditional mariachi music and after some research settled on La Parrillas which didn't disappoint! The service was brilliant with waiters laughing and joking between carrying up to 4 glasses (the size of small buckets) full of margaritas around on their heads and the band walked between tables playing classics and lots of traditional Mexican songs! The food here was amazing also, fish toastadas were something else!! (Thanks Paul and Jo if you're following for the cash for our first dinner!)

    We then headed back to the hotel for an early one knowing we had a long bus/ferry journey the next day!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 2 - Holbox Island

    12. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    We were up early again this morning for a bus journey to Chiquila before a ferry across to Holbox Island. The bus was surprisingly nice given the price and made the journey easy. Arriving at Holbox we discovered there were no cars on the island and everyone gets around by golf buggy, luckily our hotel was only a short walk from the ferry port.

    We're staying at Casa Ch'ujuk which is part of a group of hotels - the other is right on the beach and luckily we have access to that as well. After a quick walk round most of the island we settled on the beach loungers for the afternoon. For lunch we ate at Las Panchas and they served up a beautiful Shrimp Ceviche which was so packed full we had to leave some but the sauce was incredible.

    That night we found a bar playing live music which had 3 different restaurants inside similar to Boxpark called Barba Negra. We had the best tacos so far with various combos of Mushroom, Fish and cactus!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 3 - Holbox Island

    13. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    We had a chilled out day on Wednesday starting with breakfast at Amiete and relaxed by the beach. We found a lovely bright traditional Mexican place on Holbox square for Lunch called El Cocal De Holbox. Right after we arrived back at the hotel for the afternoon the heavens opened UK style (we timed it perfectly hah).

    Once the rain stopped we decided to venture out for some dinner to Arte Sank, a tiny vegan cafe that Craig found (number 1 on trip advisor for the whole island)! What should have been a simple walk was like being a contestant on total wipeout as all the roads were flooded!

    We had some drinks at a place called Hot Corner which had a great atmosphere and a live band. Due to the flooding all around we joked that it was like being in Venice!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 4 - Holbox Island

    14. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After another nice breakfast on the beach at Amiete, we went to visit the local dog shelter. We found out in advance that you can help out by taking the dogs for a walk on the beach. My dog Niquila was really underweight - you could see all her ribs but she still seemed happy enough to be out on a walk. Obviously, as soon as we reached the beach, Niquila did a huge diahrroea poo in the sand right in front of a lovely hotel (and we only had one poo bag each)!! 💩 So that was fun.

    After returning the dogs we went to Roots pizza, the best place on the island to try lobster pizza. Although I try to avoid wheat, meat and dairy, it was an absolute yes to all 3 if in lobster pizza form! And it was so good.. probably the best pizza we've ever had.

    In the evening we decided to do a bar crawl for our last night. We finally saw a sunset at the rooftop bar of Hotel Mittoz. We moved on to Casa Las Tortugas a fab beach front bar with some lovely Texans that we met in the previous bar. They taught us all about tiquila and mezcal (smoked tiquila).. at least we now know it comes from the Agave plant. We finished the night in a craft beer bar on Holbox Square with more margaritas and shots (and a hangover - perfect idea for the next day's 2 ferry and 2 bus journey to Cozumel).    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 5 & 6 - Cozumel

    16. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    After a day of travelling (which was surprisingly easy) we arrived at Cozumel around 6pm. After dropping our bags at our lovely guest house Caribo Cozumel, we headed out for some local food at Taquiera El Pique. It was a recommendation for its Tacos Al Pastor (spit roasted pork) and they were amazing!

    After a good sleep and a morning exercise we set off to explore the island with a walk around. There are so many great looking bars and restaurants scattered across the promenade and after some research we settled on a local Burrito place for lunch called Gorditos. I accidentally led us to the wrong restaurant so we ended up eating at Crazy King Burritos instead! They had two sizes available, one of which was a tortilla the size of a table... luckily they showed us examples before I had the chance to order 'the crazy special' which would've placed me into a self induced food coma no doubt. The 'small' shrimp burritos we ended up with were beautiful!

    After chilling at our hotel for the afternoon we walked down to 'Lobster Shack' for dinner - I had the roll and gem had another burrito. It was perfect again and today was definitely the best overall so far regarding food! Afterwards we went back via the supermarket where we got chatting to Alex, a local diving instructor that was now out of work.. We spoke badly in Spanish and he helped us with translations and also offered us some great tips for snorkelling spots along our trip!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 7 - Cozumal

    17. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Not sure if we mentioned but the new Gemma and Craig are much more budget conscious than we were on our last trip so we had another self made breakfast of porridge and cereal at our hotel (probably also good for our waist)!

    At 2pm we had a lunch and tequila tasting booked at Casa Mission, only a two minute walk from the hotel. The food was delish - it included a margarita, soup, nachos, and any main from the menu.

    Then on to the tiquila tasting... We tried 4 tiquilas: some aged longer than others, resulting in a darker colour. They were all pure agave - none of them burned and were dangerously close to drinking water. Then we tried 4 liquors. I loved the chocolate one and Craig loved the coffee.    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 8 - Cozumel

    18. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Today was our last day on Cozumel Island and we decided to hire a car to explore the more remote beaches on the island. After initially insisting on a little Micra/Fiesta type car my head was turned seeing so many of the older nicer looking colourful Jeeps flying around so we went for one of those...

    After a quick look round it to identify as many of the most obvious scrapes and dents as we could (there were loads) we tried to set off... With no handbrake the car was already in gear which was an immediate stall. Finding first gear was easy enough but second was a mystery and 3rd, 4th and 5th impossible. After a while we discovered 1st 2nd and 4th and after a call to the hire company finally how to get it into reverse.

    After that everything went smoothly as the roads were huge and very quiet. The scenery was beautiful and the beachs we stopped at for an hour or so each were worthy of at least a few days!

    Arriving back safely to the hire place we had Tacos de Altor at our favourite local spot and jumped on the next available ferry back to Playa Del Carmen - time for some beach days over the next week or so.... Lovely!!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 9 & 10 - Playa Del Carmen

    20. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We didn't visit the 'Hotel Zone' in Cancun but I imagine it would be similar to the '5th Avenue and Tourist Beaches' of Playa Del Carmen. Walking on our first day exploring we found lots of American'isms from chain shops to guys dressed as Spiderman! However only a few blocks away from the madness we found so many great restaurants offering great deals and amazing food! We had burritos, pork tacos, falafel and various Egg based breakfast dishes all from £4-£6 each!

    We had two quiet days really - exercising in the morning and relaxing on the quieter locals beaches in the afternoon! These days were easily the hottest since we arrived.

    The first evening we relaxed in the room and played cards and the second we decided to check out some of the rooftop bars. Firstly a bar at the top of the Thompson, which had sofas in the swimming pools and lots of great views across the town, here we got chatting with the barman Juan about our travels and showed him our planned route. He gave us some recommendations from his hometown of San Cristobal De Las Casas (which was already on our list, something he seemed quite proud about).

    The walk to the next bar was so brilliantly normal we both stopped to appreciate it, a bustling street (still probably only at about 30% capacity) with people all enjoying themselves made us feel so lucky! We arrived 5 minutes after the bar opened at The Palm Rooftop and expectedly we were the only customers, it was definitely more of a 1am club type place so we sat and took in the views with some good music for a drink but left just after to head back to the hotel.    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 11 - Playa Del Carmen

    21. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We had breakfast in a jungle and dinner a cave.. literally.

    La Cueva del Chango was the breakfast place on the other side of Playa (about 20 min walk from our hotel).

    Dinner was at Azul, a restaurant in a cave and it didn't disappoint. Our table was right next to a little lake and we even saw bats flying past us! The food was a little overpriced but we expected that given the cool setting.

    After blowing the budget for the day we grabbed some street food for desert. We decided to try Marquesitas.. a really thin pancake filled with Nutella and cheese... And they were actually quite nice!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 12 - Playa / Tulum

    22. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We had a wholesome final morning in Playa entailing a run and work out at the local sports centre and then an amazing breakfast at 'Bio Natural'. Craig had eggs Benedict and I had poached eggs with chips and beans (but a flavoursome spicy Mexican version)!

    Once fed and exercised we packed up and got the bus to our next destination - Tulum. After dropping our bags off in our hotel in downtown Tulum (the cheap part vs the very expensive beach resorts a few kilometres away), we explored the local area and stumbled across a bar selling $1 beers and then an Argentinian restaurant selling $2 empanadas which were AMAZING (we got some back in Cancun from a street vendor which were very average so couldn't believe how good these ones were!)    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 13 - Tulum

    23. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We set off early this morning on the 90 minute walk down to the beach and Yuppy area of Tulum! The walk itself was nice but even at 9am the heat was almost too much so next time will definitely be in a taxi!

    We settled on breakfast at Dune Hotel after an 8km walk - it was a great and a lovely location but it also made us realise that after you had paid to get into any of the hotels/bars/restaurants along the road it then gave you access to the beach!

    The beach was beautiful and we spent the next few hours exploring various bars and restaurants along the strip whilst taking refuge in any 'free' shaded areas we could find.

    We finally settled on a hotel/bar called Nomade which was perfectly set just from the beach on several levels and offered beautiful views of the surroundings! From here we took a taxi back to the hotel and had a great dinner at a local spot called Burrito Amor!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 14 - Tulum

    24. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We woke up and had a fabulous breakfast of fish tacos in Sabor De Mar. It was a tiny restaurant but completely full with locals and tourists.

    Next we hopped in a cab to Playa Paraiso, the best beach in Tulum according to the taxi driver. It was pretty busy and there were lots of beach bars paying live music. It was a few miles from the hotel zone and had a much more authentic feel than the other beaches. After a few hours on the beach we popped into a bar called Mezzanine which had a great view of the beach, really comfy seats and 2 for 1 margaritas.

    Our next stop was drinks at Azulik, a hotel renowned for its interesting architecture. It was like a huge tree house with a great atmosphere. We really enjoyed our time there but only stayed for one drink as it was pretty pricey!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 15 - Tulum

    25. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We decided to spend the day in the hotel zone by the beach. We had breakfast at Ziggys, a beach club which had pretty reasonable prices for breakfast.

    We then walked a few kilometres to Taqueria La Eufemia, stopping for a few photos with interesting sculptures along the way. The Taqueria was fab and we spent most of the day there. A friend recommended it to me as the only cheap beach front restaurant that doesn't have a minimum spend of $100 per person to use a sun lounger!

    We ended the evening with sunset drinks in Ceil Rose bar which had great views over the whole of Tulum.    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 16 & 17 - Tulum

    26. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We spent the day at Papaya Playa project, one of many beach clubs in the hotel zone. They all offer day passes where you commit to a minimum spend.. some seemed really pretentious but after lots of research we settled on this one and we're really glad that we did. The service was great, the food was amazing and the music was really good too.

    After enjoying a day of indulgence at Papaya Playa Project, we had a pretty quiet Wednesday. We found a really great sushi place for dinner that was only a few hundred metres from our hostel called 'Uno'.    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 18 - Tulum

    28. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We spent the morning exploring the Tulum Ruins. As impressive as they were, the view from the cliffs overlooking the sea was even more spectacular! We then walked along the beach and had breakfast at a lovely place called Casa Pescadores and stayed for a few hours on the sunbeds.

    For dinner, we had a reservation at Bak, in the hotel zone. I'd read great things before hand and it really lived up to our expectations. There was a DJ and the music was great! We both ordered Tacos with sides of truffle fires, guacamole and Mac and cheese. The staff were really fun and danced around with sparklers... I wish I got a picture!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 19 - Tulum

    29. januar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    For our final day in Tulum we has breakfast at Habitas. It's a renowned hotel in Tulum where people pay a small fortune to stay in one of the beach front yurts and enjoy the on site activities like yoga, meditation and massage (we actually had to walk around a ring of people meditating on the path to the restaurant hahah). Obviously I had to check the place out and we'd already learned that you never really pay more than £10 for a breakfast even in the fancy places (hence why we visited most of the nice places for breakfast)!

    We relaxed on the beach in the afternoon and walked to a wine bar for the evening. I found a great Mexican Sauvignon blanc called Puerto Nuevo that is £4 per bottle so we bought 2 to take away. Craig also found a lovely beer called Ocho Riales.. one to look out for again!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 21 & 22 - Bacalar

    1. februar 2021, Mexico ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    After a day on the buses we dropped our bags and took a walk around Bacalar just before sunset. That evening we were tired so settled on a veggie burger at 'Mango Y Chile' and a marquesita from the town square before an early night.

    The next day we wanted to check out the beautiful Bacalar lakes and heard about a natural lazy river that sounded perfect! Before that we needed breakfast and naturally I settled on the first place we saw that was open, it was a locals place that only seemed to be serving meat... I mentioned to the older guy who was presumably the owner that 'ella no como carne' as I ordered my plate of shredded something (I think pork, possibly chicken?) he nodded and smiled and I assumed would come back with some bread and guacamole maybe?? Anyway as I'm eating away he slides over a plate of what we both assumed to be fried pineapple, a lovely gesture and alternative for the veggie we thought! I tried it and said to gem that it had to be the nicest pineapple I'd ever eaten, she tried a piece immediately knew it was meat!! Called the guy over to ask 'que es?' and he goes 'Piel' and pinches his skin!!! Turns out 'ella no Como carne o piel' is needed with the older generation over here!

    Gem recovered and we had a great afternoon relaxing down the lazy river at Los Rapidos!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 23 - Bacalar & Valladolid

    2. februar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    After pre booking a sunrise paddle boarding trip for this morning and getting a sensibly early night last night in preparation for the 5.40am alarm, everything seemed to be ruined when gem woke us up at 6.25am asking why the alarm hadn't gone off!

    After scraping ourselves together and somehow climbing over the hotels locked front gate we luckily grabbed a taxi and made our 6.45am meeting point in perfect time! We were rewarded with the most amazing pink/purple looking dawn sky over the harbour which made us even more excited to get on the boards for the sunrise!

    Our guide Hector was nice and we had a hungover Italian called Marco with us as well. The first stop was around 20 mins out into the lagoon where we tied the boards to a rope for coffee and sunset. After chatting and watching the sun come up we headed to the black cenote which we were told goes hundreds of metres deep before heading back to shore, remarkably nobody fell in!

    Afterwards we had a long bus journey to Valladolid - which luckily had a 2 hour stop over in Tulum and knowing the area meant we could have one last lunch at 'Burrito Amor' to kill the time.

    Arriving into Valladolid we immediately headed to the town square and watched the sunset around the local church, we also finally got our first mexican churros from a local stand and they were definitely worth the wait!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 24 - Valladolid

    3. februar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We spent the morning exploring the beautiful colonial style streets and buildings in Valladolid.

    We stopped for lunch at Nena Nena, a traditional Mexican cantina. The owner was really helpful and picked out 3 dishes containing chickpeas, beans and mushrooms for me to try. He did the same for Craig with lots of tasty meat options.

    That afternoon we headed to a Cenote only 5 minutes away from the main square. A Cenote is a sinkhole filled with water and there are lots of them in this part of Mexico. We enjoyed a swim in the cool water and watching the locals jump in from the sides (someone jumped from where Craig is standing in the picture!).    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 25 - Valladolid

    4. februar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We woke up early to visit Cenote Seytun - the most famous Cenote in Mexico. Since it was only 10km away Craig suggested running there. Although I work out most days I haven't ran in about a month so I ran just under half and hopped in a taxi for the other half! (Craig is still doing impressions of me wheezing trying to keep up).

    The Cenote was magical and we practically had it to ourselves (another Covid win). The water was particularly deep when we were there with the walkway submerged under 3m of water. At some points in the year you can walk out on it! We spent about an hour marvelling at the cave formation, bats and fish swimming around.    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 26 - Chichen Itza & Colarades

    5. februar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We pre arranged a private tour to take us to both Chichen Itza and Las Colardes today - setting off early to beat any queues we arrived to Chichen early enough to be one of only 30 or so people there!

    The centre piece known at El Castillo was the first thing you could see walking in and at just under 100ft in height it was a sight to behold. With 91 steps on each side and one at the top to denote a full year and impresive acoustics that meant it acted like an echo chamber it was so interesting to hear the detail and practicality that had gone in to making this building!

    We were guided around the rest of the site rather quickly but stopped at the Mayan Ball Court where a game between two teams was played with a small rubber ball and the target was to shoot the ball with your hip through small ringed hole on top of the wall!! We were told the losing team captain would lose his head! (Although speaking to another Mayan recently he mentioned them not being sure if it was the winning or losing captain that lost his head as it could have been seen as an honour/reward)

    After Chichen we headed on a 3 hour drive to the pink lakes of Los Colaradas. The process of making salt caused the water to turn pink in certain sunlights and the scale of the production was insane - we were told its the 2nd biggest producer of salt in the world! Unfortunately the sun wasn't at its brightest for our visit so the pictures don't do it justice, but it was amazing to see at the time!

    We finished our long day with another 3 hour drive to our next stop Merida and after checking in found a nice falafel restaurant called Pita before getting an early night!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 27 - Merida

    6. februar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We started the morning with some exploring and it was good to be back in the buzz of a big city. We checked out several squares/parks that were all nice but followed a similar style. We ended up on Paseo De Montejo which was a cool street with loads of buildings and monuments to Meridas founder. It had lots of impressive looking private mansions, art galleries and government buildings yet we found ourselves settling down in an Irish bar on the street called Hennessey's....

    After some refreshments and some street food at a market on the corner we headed back to the hotel for the afternoon. That evening we ate at a lovely restaurant Chaya Maya and the Pollo Pibil was beautiful!

    After, we caught a light show being projected onto the church in the main square which was cool and then the tail end of a live bands set in El Cardenal Cartina which was a great traditional Mexican bar! We got talking (and dancing) with some locals and an Aussie who warned us about the 11pm curfew yet suggested another bar which meant we would break said curfew anyway!! Naturally we suggested drinks at our hotel as it had a big open air lobby and pool area so after a stop at the shop off we went! They were great fun and we had a brilliant night, it finished with us making plans to join them tomorrow on a trip to Uxmal Ruins which we were reliably informed were better than Chichen Itza!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 28 - Uxmal

    7. februar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We both woke up this morning feeling tired and hungover after a late one. After breakfast I messaged our friends Ivan and Daniel to check if we were still going to be meeting that day, they replied saying they were on their way so we rushed to get ready.

    They planned to visit the Mayan Ruins of Uxmal themselves and we were happy to tag along. Similarly to Chichen Itza you were immediately greeted with the site of a huge pyramid on arrival, however at Uxmal everything was far more compact and that meant throughout the walk around you could always get different angles and see the main ruin from different heights! There also seemed to be far more nature and greenery at these ruins which only served to improve the views.

    On our drive towards the town for lunch we stumbled across a Mayan cave which also had a lookout tower with amazing views across the Mexican countryside. The cave itself was about 20/30ft down a rickety old ladder but similarly to the Cenotes the rock formations below were incredible - after being made jump by one too many bats we made our way back up to ground level and headed off for some lunch!    Les mer

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    Mexico Day 28 - Merida & Progreso Beach

    7. februar 2021, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We stopped for lunch in a small town where our friend Ivan grew up called Muna - there was a small locals chicken restaurant that was delicious, we were told its a mexican tradition to eat 'outside and with your hands' on a Sunday!

    From here we were off to Progreso Beach which was a drive back past Merida and was a lovely little beach. Unfortunately not fully open right now but we still got to try some local beach sweets and relax by the sea as the sun came down.

    Finally we drive down a famous road in Merida called 'paseo de montejo' which had a brilliant monument in the middle of a roundabout detailing various moments in Mexican history - it was a great final stop and a perfect day to showcase Mexican hospitality at its finest. We had both heard about peoples generosity and pride in their heritage but to join Daniel and Ivan for the day was a privilege and one of our best days so far!    Les mer

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