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  • skip's retirement travelGreeceskip's retirement travel

    St. Seraphim Monastery

    6. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    It is said that this is the only monastery in the world dedicated to the Russian St. Seraphim of Sarov. They also claim the largest bell tower in the world, shown in the 1st picture.
    The rest of the pictures are a sample of the monastery: a small chapel, the meditation garden, the entry gate with icons, the main building and inside the church.Les mer

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    Nafpaktos Old Town

    6. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    I'm told that Nafpaktos is named after an ancient Athenian naval base of that name. This has been an important naval site since antiquity. The decisive naval Battle of Lepanto occurred near here, driving the Ottoman navy from the Gulf of Corinth.
    The 1st 2 pictures are of the small Venetian port, one daytime, one nighttime, taken from opposite sides of the quay. The old town was built up around the port. The 3rd picture is of the square across from the old port. The 4th picture is a night scene near the port. If you look between the buildings, you can just see the port.    Les mer

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    Castle of Nafpaktos

    6. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    This site dates back into Greek antiquity when the town was inside the walls. The oldest structures were destroyed in an earthquake. The current fortress, most recently restored by the Venetians, is built on the acropolis of the ancient city.
    The fort has unique wall a unique arrangement. 2 walls run down the hill the the port (see the old town Nafpaktos post) plus the are 4 transverse walls, dividing the castle into 3 levels that could each be defended if the lower was breached.
    This is one of three fortresses in reasonably close proximity that protect the entrance to the Gulf of Corinth. The naval battle of Lepanto occurred near here where the Ottoman navy was defeated by allied navies.
    The 1st picture looks up to the castle from the old Venetian port. A few sections of the walls down the mountain are visible.
    The rest of the pictures are of various places inside the fortress.    Les mer

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    Rion and Antirion fortresses

    7. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The castle at Nafpaktos (see another post) is one of 3 forts protecting the west entrance to the gulf of Corinth. These are the other 2. While Nafpaktos is well up the steep hillside, both of these are at the shore of the bay.
    The map marker is at Rion. Antirion is on the opposite bank. The 1st picture looks under the bridge from Rion to Antirion. The 2nd picture is the inside of Antirion. It seems every time the Ottoman navy was repulsed, they burned this fort which the local forces rebuilt. This is all that's left.
    The remaining 4 pictures are all at Rion. The 3rd picture looks at the old gate in the original Ottoman walls. The 4th picture is of the former hammam or Turkish bath. The 5th picture is of the powder magazine built by the Venetians after they took over and extended the fortress.
    The last picture looks across the large inner courtyard, showing the Venetian walls and bastions they added in about the 17th century .    Les mer

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    Patras Roman Bridge

    7. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Like many archaeological sites, this bridge was buried and currently sits below the surrounding soil elevation. It was built in 2nd or 3rd century CE over the River Kalliaios that has since meandered to a new course nearby. It was part of the Roman Road in this region.
    These are all taken at the site except the last one. That one was taken at the archaeology museum (see another post) to show what it looked like when it was excavated.
    This is considered a 2 arch bridge, but there is a 3rd arch sitting at an angle. While I don't have confirmation, my guess is that this arch is over a tributary or other drainage into the river.
    Also note that the paving stones atop the bridge are original to the Roman builders.    Les mer

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    Voundeni

    7. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    This is a Mycenaean (think Agamemnon and the crew in the Iliad: they were from Mycenae) settlement dating to about 1500 BCE. Voundeni is in Achaea, putting it at the fringe of Mycenaean territory.
    The site includes the settlement at Bortzi Hill and the nearby necropolis. The necropolis had been extensively excavated. So most of these pictures are taken there.
    The 1st picture is taken from the top of the hill above the necropolis. Bortzi Hill is in the background. The 2nd picture is taken from the same spot but at a different angle to get a better look at the archaeological excavations of the tombs.
    The 3rd picture looks closer at at one of the excavated tombs, showing the ramp down in. The 4th picture is taken inside a smaller tomb, while the 5th and 6th look at a large tomb. The 5th picture looks down a short section of the entry ramp to the door into the tomb. The walls are actually slanted inward. The last picture is inside that same tomb. It was the largest one I visited.    Les mer

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    Archaeological Museum of Patras

    7. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    This museum houses artifacts from the Patras region dating from as far back as the 17th century BCE through the Roman period. The museum is divided into 4 sections: 3 permanent and one for special presentations that change regularly. The current temporary exhibit relates to the Greek Civil War. I admit I omitted this from my visit.
    The 3 permanent exhibits are private life, public life and cemeteries. As the names imply, the exhibits look at history through 3 lenses: how people lived at home; how life transpired in the polis or public square; and cultural practices around death.
    The 1st picture is a broad view of the private life section, and the 2nd is a similar view of the public life section. The 3rd is the cemetery or necropolis section.
    I admit to a fascination with mosaics, and there is a large display here. There are floor and wall designs and public space design, too. These are 3 examples: a home floor mosaic; a public wall mosaic likely related to periodic games as the top level is music and drama while the bottom is athletics; and a floor mosaic with the central character being the cyclops of the Odyssey receiving his wine.    Les mer

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    Aqueducts of Patras

    8. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    There are 2 aqueducts here. Due to new road construction, the ancient engineering works we're discovered: one Roman, the other Ottoman.
    The 1st 2 pictures are of the ruins of the Roman aqueduct that most likely dates to the time of Hadrian in the 2nd century CE. This aqueduct ran for about 6.5 km to supply water to the acropolis which is where the Patras Castle (see another post) is located. It is said that this ancient engineering marvel continued supplying water to Patros until the 17th century.
    The rest of the pictures are of the medieval aqueduct built by the Ottomans, probably in the 15th century. The 3rd picture is of a reconstructed section of the ottoman aqueduct that was removed for road construction. It is located next to the remains of the Roman aqueduct. The 4th picture shows where the aqueduct was cut. You can see the shape of the water channel at the top center of the section. The last picture looks across the new road to a section of the aqueduct that is still standing.    Les mer

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    Patras Castle

    8. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    This castle dates to the 6th century CE and is located on the ruins of the ancient acropolis of the ancient city. It was built up by Justinian after an earthquake. Amazingly, the fortress remained in use even up to world war 2.
    The 1st picture looks through the main gate that makes a right turn inside the gate tower. The 2nd picture is of the inner fortress or what might be termed the keep. The 3rd picture looks across the area just to the left of the tower of the keep in the 2nd picture.
    The 4th picture is part of the wall and looks like it might be cannon embrasures. The 5th picture is taken from the top of the tower looking down on the courtyard inside that inner fortress or keep. The last picture looks out a gate to ruins of a bastion and the gulf of Corinth.    Les mer

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    Odeion of Patros

    8. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    This Roman theater dates to the middle of the 2nd century CE. Like so many archaeological sites, this was buried and the land reused for different purposes. One of those purposes was a cemetery. Hence the sarcophagi in the 1st picture that were excavated here. The ancient structure was rediscovered accidentally during construction work of the port. It has since been restored, seats about 2,500, and is used for various performances and festivities.
    The 1st picture is the outer wall behind the stage. The 2nd picture is the restored amphitheater. The 3rd picture looks down on the stage from the top is the seats in the 2nd picture.
    The 4th picture is an entrance arch, and the 5th picture is of unrestored ancient stairs up to the seats. The last picture is the backstage area. The outer wall in the 1st picture is to the left.    Les mer

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    St. Andrew Cathedral, Patras

    8. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The patron saint of Patros is St. Andrew. It is said that the apostle Andrew came here and preached. And that he was martyred here. The cathedral is dedicated to him. He is credited with untold miracles, not the least of which was helping to lift an Ottoman siege.
    The 1st picture is of the new cathedral. The old one is to the right. The 2nd and 3rd pictures of are the interior of the new cathedral. The 4th picture is a reliquary containing bones of St. Andrew, and the 5th picture of the X-shaped cross or saltire holds remains of the cross upon which he was crucified. I'm told that his crucifixion was on a cross of this shape. You may know that Andrew is also the patron saint of Scotland, and the Scottish flag contains a saltire. No surprise.
    The last picture is in the smaller old cathedral.    Les mer

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    Olympia, Athletics

    9. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Most of us are most familiar with the great games held every 4 years beginning in the 8th century BCE that continued for as much as 1,200 years until they were suppressed as part of the ending of pagan worship.
    The 1st picture is the gymnasium where athletes trained for running and the pentathlon. The 2nd picture looks at the Palaestra where athletes trained for wrestling, boxing and jumping. I also understand that there were times when philosophers spoke and taught here.
    The 3rd picture is in the stadium, taken from the top of the slope at one end. There is a guy towards the bottom to give a sense of scale. It's huge. Also, in the lower right is the entrance for the athletes. It was originally vaulted. The 4th picture looks down the entry path to the athletes' entrance. Along the left side is a series of statue bases. Each held a bronze statue of Zeus, paid for by the fines paid by each athlete who cheated. The base was inscribed with the name of the athlete and how he cheated.
    The 5th picture is of the unique triangular column on which stood a statue of Nike, the goddess of victory. The statue is in the museum (see another post).
    The last picture is the Bouleterion, I think. The Bouleterion is where officials and athletes swore their sacred oaths before the game at the altar of Zeus Horkios housed within.    Les mer

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    Olympia, Religious

    9. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    This site is probably most famous for the original Olympics (776 BCE they say), but it was first and foremost a religious site. I'm told that there were as many as 70 temples here at one time.
    The 1st known human activity dates at at least the 4th millennium BCE, but the activity we might associate with ancient Greece began about the 10th century BCE. The oldest monumental building here is the Temple of Hera, dating to the 7th century BCE. In the 1st picture,. The altar of Hera is in the foreground. It is here that the ceremony of lighting the Olympic torch takes place to start it's journey to light the flame at the games every other year. In the background is the temple itself.
    The 2nd picture is of the temple of Zeus. The one standing column is a reconstruction. I wish I could give a sense of scale. The column is more than 20 meters tall. It is here the famous 13 meter tall statue of Zeus, one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world, stood. The 3rd picture is of some of the ruins of columns next to the temple. They are more than 2 meters in diameter. Again, I hope this helps with scale. See also the post for the archaeology museum. The pediments have been reconstructed there.
    The remaining 3 pictures are of more ruins. There is just so much here that I simply don't remember which is which.    Les mer

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    Olympia, the rest

    9. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    In a place as large, important and active as this, I'm sure you can recognize that there will be more than religious and athletic activity and facilities present. To start with, the UNESCO listed historic site is more than 260 acres.
    For example, there were baths as in the 1st picture. The 2nd picture is also part of a bath complex. (You knew I had to get a mosaic in here somewhere.)
    The 3rd picture is of a building referred to as the octagon. This is where Nero stayed when he competed in the games.
    The 4th picture is the Leonidaion, I think. The Leonidaion is where dignitaries we're entertained while visiting.
    The long narrow building in the 5th picture is the workshop of Pheidias, the sculptor of the famous statue of Zeus in the temple here, among many more.
    The last picture is the only circular building in Olympia. It is the Phillipeion, started by Phillip and finished by his son Alexander the Great.    Les mer

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    Archaeology Museum of Olympia

    9. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    This is one of the most important museums in Greece. It houses artifacts discovered in this region, most notably from the site of ancient Olympia (see other posts).
    The 1st picture is of a reconstruction of one of the pediments from the temple of Zeus (see Olympia, Religious post). Again, scale is an issue. That is 29 meters long. And the figure in the center (Apollo) is more than 3 meters tall.
    The 2nd picture is the statue of Hermes and Dionysios. Hermes is taking a break on the journey from Zeus to the nymphs who will raise Dionysios. The 3rd picture is of Nike, Goddess of victory on a portion of the triangular column (see Olympia, Athletics post).
    The 4th picture is Hittite or Assyrian bronze lions head found at the site, attesting to the importance of this place in the wider region.
    The 5th picture is an artist's conception of what the famous statue us Zeus might have looked like, based on contemporaneous descriptions (see Olympia, Religions post).
    The last picture is a model of what the entire site might have looked like at it's peak.    Les mer

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    Temple of Apollo Epikourios

    10. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This remote temple is the 1st site in Greece to be added to the UNESCO world heritage list. The temple as it is dates to the 5th century BCE, and it replaced an earlier temple to Apollo. The name means Apollo the Helper for the god's aid in war.
    The temple has been well studied as it contains a number of unusual features. It is the oldest building containing all 3 orders of columns: Doric around the outer walls; Ionic supporting the interior; and a single Corinthian column in the center which is the oldest Corinthian column yet found. The temple is important to the history of architecture.
    Missing from the temple is the original 31 meter long marble frieze. (It's in the British Museum.) It depicts Hercules, Centaurs, Amazons, and more.
    A large restoration project is under way. The temple is enclosed in a tent to protect it, and these pictures reflect the work.
    The 1st picture looks into the main door between 2 columns. The 2nd picture looks at a bit more of the restoration work. The 3rd picture looks down one side. You can see that the older columns to the rear lean. They will be moved and the base rebuilt to stabilize everything. Notice, too, that the restored columns are whiter the the ones to the rear. These have been cleaned. It will eventually be all white.
    The 4th picture looks into the center of the temple. The column base with the protective fence is the base of the Corinthian column. The 5th picture is the rear wall where a large niche was provided for offerings to the gods and goddesses including Apollo, Artemis and Aphrodite.
    The last picture is of what is left of the 7th century BCE older temple to Apollo. The protective tent is visible in the background as the "new" (2500 year old) temple was built over part of the older one.    Les mer

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    Ancient Messene

    11. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Ancient Messene is similar to Olympia in many ways, except that Olympia is primarily a religious site where Messene is primarily a capital. This is the city founded in 369 BCE by the general who led the battle against Sparta that finally gave Messenians their independence. It became the primary home for Messenian exiles who returned after independence.
    The 1st picture is the great theater that can seat 10,000. The 2nd picture is the north stoa of the upper level of the agora. The 3rd picture is the fountain of Arsinoë, named not for the sister of Cleopatra but the daughter of a local noble.
    The 4th picture takes in the stadium with the gymnasium and palaistra together in the background.
    The 5th picture is the Asclepion, the main building for administration and decision making of the city. The Temple of Asclepius is in the center.
    The 6th picture is the Odeion in the building for the city council.    Les mer

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    Pylos Castle

    11. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Also called Neokastro (New Castle), this fortress was built by the Ottomans in the 16th century to protect what is said to be the best natural harbor on the Peloponnesian peninsula. And, they used it as a naval base. There is an old castle built by Franks, but it is difficult to reach and mostly destroyed.
    The 1st picture looks over the natural harbor and waterfront of modern Pylos. You can see the protected harbor entrance in the background. The 2nd picture looks through the battlements across the harbor entrance to the peninsula on the far side.
    The 3rd picture looks down on some interesting battlements on one of the landside walls. The 4the picture looks across towards the gate. The building to the left is an old barracks building that now houses 1 of 3 museums in the castle.
    The 5th picture is the iconostasis in the church. This building was built as a mosque by the Ottomans and converted to the church when the Turkish forces lost the castle.
    The last picture is taken from the end battlement nearest the harbor entrance looking back up through the fortress. To the left is the church that, to me, looks like it was a mosque. (It was.) And up to the right is the inner fortress. The open area was where the old town was located inside the outer walls.    Les mer

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    Archaeology Museum, Sparta

    12. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This is a small museum in Sparta that is particularly well done. There are artifacts here dating to the neolithic period through the Roman era, from Sparta and the surrounding area.
    There are 2 principal galleries. One focuses on life in Sparta during the classical period when they we're known for their intense physical education. They do this by following Leonidas as he grew and worked through the system.
    The other gallery shows a collection more typical of archaeological museums: recovered shards, mosaics, jewelry, etc.
    The 1st 3 pictures are in the Spartan life section. The 1st picture shows several items, most notably what is called the Leonidas Bust. The 2nd picture is a couple mosaics showing life scenes. The 3rd is an overview of this section.
    The rest of the pictures are in the other section. These are artifacts found here but don't necessarily relate to the training regimen.    Les mer

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    Acropolis of Sparta

    12. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    In ancient Greece, the acropolis (literally, high city) was the place of government, where elites lived and where the main religious sites were located. Unfortunately, most of the ancient site is not well preserved, though it is now protected as a park.
    The most notable of the ruins is the theater in the 1st picture that was taken from the "nose bleed" seats. The theater is really from the Roman period, but there is a record of a theater here several centuries BCE. It is thought that the Roman theater might be built upon the older one.
    The 2nd picture looks over a small Byzantine church to the "round building," as it's called. No one really knows what this building was for.
    The 3rd picture looks over Tunis on the hill approaching the acropolis. The 4th picture looks out at the view from the acropolis.
    The 5th picture is of the ruins of the temple of Athena Chalkiokos at the highest point. Chalkioikos refers to bronze sheets that decorated the interior walls.
    The last picture is identified as the Basilica of St Nikon from about the 10th century.    Les mer

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    Sparta

    12. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    A modern city today with ruins scattered about. Sometimes opposed to Athens sometimes allied. The site of the ancient acropolis of Sparta is the subject if another post.
    Sparta is the home of Menelaus and Leonidas. In fact, the 1st picture is the statue of Leonidas that is the counterpart to the statue at Thermopylae (see another post). The 2nd picture is of Leonidas' tomb in the center of Sparta.
    The 3rd picture is of the ruins of Greco- Roman baths.
    The 4th picture is of the remains of a Byzantine cross-in-square design church.
    The last picture is of another Byzantine church. This one was on the basilica style    Les mer

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    Mystras churches

    13. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    There are lots of churches in the middle city, most of whom where in the many monasteries that flourished here. The 1st 2 pictures give a look at the architecture of a couple. The 1st is the Church of the Evangelistra that isn't open. The 2nd is St Theodore. This was the main church of the largest monastery in Mystras at that time (Brontochion). Only one monastery remains active and that had been converted to a convent (Panagia Pantanassa).
    The rest of the pictures are in the churches. I was there in the morning, and as churches of the time faced east, there is glare in some of the pictures. Unfortunately, I took so many photos, I can't recall which pictures are which church.
    Pictures 3, 4, and 5 are iconostases. The 6th is a bit of the stunning, ancient frescos here.    Les mer

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    Mystras

    13. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Mystras is a medieval/Byzantine city a short distance from Sparti, as modern Sparta is known. It was founded by the Franks in the 13th century in the aftermath of the 4th crusade, beginning as the citadel on the hilltop.
    In the middle of the 13th century, the Byzantines began to push the Franks out, resulting in a period of insecurity. During this period, the local population built and moved to a new Byzantine city below the fortress. This is the current historic site.
    Byzantine cities of this period are typically built on a hill, with the upper city for the rulers, the middle city for what might be called the middle class and the lower city for everyone else. Each section was walled with strong gates for successive defense if necessary.
    The 1st picture is taken in the citadel looking from the high point back down toward the gate. The 2nd picture is in the citadel chapel.
    Below the citadel is the upper town. The 3rd picture is taken from the upper town looking up to the citadel. The 4th picture is the palace, currently under reconstruction. This building was the administrative heart of this region. The 5th picture is the gate between the middle and upper cities. The cobblestone street and walls are typical. The last picture looks over the middle city ruins to the view.
    The lower city is mostly gone. So I didn't take pictures. Most of the buildings in the middle city that can be identified are churches and monasteries. I'm putting some of those in another post.    Les mer

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    Olive and Olive Oil Museum

    13. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    This is in my experience a unique and interesting place. It is a museum that traces the olive tree from wild to cultivated, with all its varieties and traces the use of the olive through the centuries for food, medicine, oil and more. Finally, they trace olive oil production methods over time. The 1st picture is a summary chart of all of this.
    The 2nd picture is of replicas of different olive oil amphorae from different time periods. The 3rd looks at various types of lamps that used olive oil for its fuel source.
    The last 3 pictures are in the museum's outdoor space where they have built replicas of original olive crushing and pressing equipment that has been found in Greece and Cyprus. The 4th and 5th pictures are olive crushers, and the last is an olive press.    Les mer

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    Kosmas

    14. november 2021, Hellas ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Kosmas is a typical small mountain village typical for the Peloponnesian Peninsula. The village is known from the 16th century, but locally there was an ancient town with s temple to Apollo.
    The 1st picture is of the town square. This was just after church and the square had lots of people, much like everyone going for brunch back home. The 2nd picture is in the local church that is usually closed. Arriving just after the service was fortunate as I got to visit.
    The next 3 pictures look at the village. I took the time to try yida, the local goat soup said to be unique here. It was very good.
    The last picture looks across the valley back to the village. It's too bad that this picture doesn't give a sense of the hair-raising cliffs and gorges the road navigates to get here.    Les mer

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