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Camino De Santiago
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  • The World is Out There

Camino De Santiago

Léon to Santiago via the Frances Way Read more
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    Yaaaaaaa!

    June 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    I just asked for coffee and an after dinner drink with my dessert…., in Spanish!

    Con Cafe Americano y hoy in digestivo De Galicia? Chupito de hierves
    is a high-proof drink (although lower than that of thewhite pomace), typical of Cantabria,Galicia, Asturias Y Leon which is obtained from brandy or orujo that is mixed with aromatic herbs that give it a characteristic greenish tone. Some Galician pomace such as toasted pomace come from this by adding toasted or caramelized sugar.Read more

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    The Pilgrims Credential

    June 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Here’s what my Credential looks like so far. If you want a stamp, say “?Tienes selló por favor?

  • The World is Out ThereCamino De SantiagoThe World is Out There

    Contact!

    June 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Walking up the steep Rua Maior in Sarria, I suddenly look up as a couple are leaving a taberna. He and I make Eye contact and both cry, “I know you!” It’s Dave Jones and his wife from Seattle APoC! They started around May 1 in SJPdP. They have had a hard journeyRead more

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    Peruscallo

    June 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    "O God, who brought your servant Abraham out of the land of the Chaldeans, protecting him in
    his wanderings, who guided the Hebrew people across the desert, we ask that you watch over us,
    your servants, as we walk in the love of your name to Santiago de Compostela.

    Be for us our companion on the walk,
    Our guide at the crossroads,
    Our breath in our weariness,
    Our protection in danger,
    Our albergue on the Camino,
    Our shade in the heat,
    Our light in the darkness,
    Our consolation in our discouragements,
    And our strength in our intentions.

    So that with your guidance we may arrive safe and sound at the end of the Road and enriched
    with grace and virtue we return safely to our homes filled with joy.

    In the name of Jesus Christ our Lord, Amen.
    Apostle Santiago, pray for us.
    Santa Maria, pray for us."    Read more

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    Enochlophobia Tremens

    June 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Yikes! It’s like coming off the trail right into Disneyworld! School groups, church youth groups, families, friends, pairs, singles. Lots of brand new gear. I am reminded of a time when I’d been hiking the final segment of the John Muir Trail. We were three days out and had been sharing the trail with several hikers who’d come all the way down from Yosemite. We were lunching at the junction where the long hikers meet up with the Whitney Day Hikers-Trail Junction. Three days hikers, just out of REI passed by. Someone in our group pointed out, “My! Those day hikers smell pretty!” Causing a few of us a Heimlich Moment…Read more

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    Portomarin

    June 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Much quieter start today. Ancient road with walls on each side and trees grown into the walls. I get that twitch I get and break out my rain gear. Other pilgrims smirk and shake their heads, but in 200m a light spritzy, evanescence, just enough to wet you through hits and I hike on by as they dig out their kit. More ancient stone farm buildings. I meet an older man having a pipe while leaning on his bike. I see that he has an artificial leg, a really expensive metal one with an articulating knee joint. As I climb the steep hill, he hops on the bike charging hard and passes me. An inspiration. I link up again with Dave and Gerry Jones. Before reaching the bridge to Portomarin I face three choices. The choices are borne out on a board.: go right and stay safe, go left (the ancient way) which clearly leads to injury and death and a further route in green. I go left and where the two part are more indications of death with pictures showing a narrow steep slot canyon with no steps on the ancient middle way, I stick to the far left green route and am rewarded with life. I reach the bridge and ring the Liberty Bell, then I read the sign indicating that if I ring the bell, I am morally obligated to visit the sister city of Portomarin. Dave and Gerry wait for me on the other side. The bridge spans 500 over a fjord of water from a vast lake to the north. I arrive too early for checkin and wind up chatting with Dave and Gerry over a long 2 beer calzone lunch. Check in, shower and a machine laundry wash and dry set up in a garage in the hotel parking lot. This is the swankiest place in Portomarin a three star Parador called the Pousada de Portomarin…a nice treat. Laundry is 4€ with automatic soap, dry for 3€, the cheapest so farRead more

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    Portomarin to Vendas de Naron

    June 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Three good long climbs. Today I met Nacho from Alembres, a 25 year old business data consultant. Good talks about food and our countries. Feeling better today. Last night headache and stomach upset. Out of Portomarin another long bridge and another split in The Camino. I follow my Seattle APoC training and head left, but in half a mile I am stopped by four Spainiards who were worried they went the wrong way and hadn’t seen a fletcha Amarillo. I told them Camino Historico LEFT, Camino Complementario RIGHT…Mi Amiga Peregrina says Always left. 2 mas kilometers, no flecha..devoluciones. 100 m later there was a marker! Big Cheers and Left, Left, Left. Saw them at lunch and they said Americano Left! Well, I am from Seattle! LolRead more

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    Lounging on a Patio in Vendas de Naron

    June 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    OK if you were here it would go from great to perfect!

    A wonderful little hamlet of maybe 10 buildings and a small chapel. In 820, this was the site of a key defeat of the Moors by Spain by Alphonse II the chaste. That same year James the Greaters´ remains were discovered and Alphonse commissioned the cathedral to house them. His journey to Santiago to confirm the findings was the first pilgrimage here and defined the Primitivo Route. I met a strapping 6.5 foot tall 25 year old Spainiard who agreed his pilgrimage last year on the Primitivo was the hardest thing he had ever done…it’s known as a tough route.Read more

  • The World is Out ThereCamino De SantiagoThe World is Out There

    Mi Dios

    June 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Teach us, O God ,to view our life here on earth as a pilgrim’s path to heaven,
    and give us grace to tread it courageously in the company of your faithful people.
    Help us to set our affections on things above,
    not on the passing vanities of this world,
    and grant that as we journey on in the Way of holiness
    we may bear a good witness to our Lord,
    and serve all who need our help along the way,
    for the glory of your name. Amen    Read more

  • The World is Out ThereCamino De SantiagoThe World is Out There

    Bar Ligonde, Airexe, Spain

    June 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    I’m writing you to catch you up on places I’ve been.
    And you, had this letter, probly got excited, but there’s nothin’ else inside it.

    Didn’t have a camera by my side this time.
    Hoping I would see the World through both my eyes.
    Maybe I would tell you all about it when
    I’m in the mood to lose my way with words.

    Today, skies are painted colors of a Cowboy Cliche,
    And strange how clouds that look like mountains in the sky are next to mountains anyway.

    Didn’t have a camera by my side this time.
    Hoping I would see the World through both my eyes.
    Maybe I would tell you all about it when
    I’m in the mood to lose my way, but let me say

    You should have seen that sunrise with your own eyes
    It brought me back to life
    You'll be with me next time I go outside
    No more 3x5's

    Guess you had to be there
    Guess you had to be with me

    Today I finally overcame
    Trying to fit the world inside a picture frame
    Maybe I will tell you all about it when I'm in the mood to
    Lose my way but let me say
    You should have seen that sunrise with your own eyes
    It brought me back to life
    You'll be with me next time I go outside
    No more 3x5's
    Just no more 3x5's

    - John Meyer, 3x5    Read more

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    Palais de Rei

    June 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Got here in very short order, despite moderate discomfort. Should give some time to see this town and perhaps get a wax stamp from the store that offered the first Camino wax stamp, La Tienda de Ionut. This is the home of the Spanish ParaOlympic athlete Ionut Preda who has carved out his own business niche here. Dinner will have to be in town, as my lodging, La Cabaña had their main building burn down. But the log cabins were preserved! And they have a nice tented eating area for drinks and breakfast.

    Met Ronin a British cyclist living in New York. He started in London in early May and biked through France to St. Jean all The Way to here he will finish tomorrow. An avid vinophile, he was lucky to have met a winemaker in Bierzo who invited him to visit, so he carved out a 25 km detour near Villafranca del Bierzo. He reports that rural France is in very tough shape after Covid, being vulnerably dependent on the one market or the one baker in town.

    I went to Ionuts´ shop and got the amazing stamp (for free with a t-shirt!)    Read more

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    La Siesta

    June 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    If you are trying to get something done after a morning hike such as, banking, or market, or pharmacy, you must take into account Siesta.

    The Spanish word siesta derives originally from the Latin word hora sexta "sixth hour" (counting from dawn, hence "midday rest"). Due to this schedule, workers don't eat lunch at work, but instead leave work around 2pm and eat their main meal which is the heaviest at lunch time. Following the heavy lunch, they take a siesta or nap and have tea upon waking up. For dinner, they usually have a smaller meal.

    On the way out of town I was lucky to be walking by the church as the host was opening it up. I got my stamp, dropped a € in the plate and sat in a pew. He’s bustling around and then hits the audio switch and on comes the St. Louis Jesuits and I lost it. He came and sat by me quietly. I shook his hand, Gracias Señor. Muy buen por mi corazone y mi spirito.    Read more

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    San Tirso

    June 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Santo Tirso has many churches dedicated to him owning to a cult like following. Saint Thyrsus is a venerated martyr who died in Phrygia after suffering many tortures. Eventually his persecutors took a saw to him, but half way through it became too heavy to manage and he was dispatched by beheading. That is why his device is the saw you see here on his right. You’d think he would be the patron saint of lumberjacks, but that is reserved for Simon the Apostle who died in a similar manner.Read more

  • The World is Out ThereCamino De SantiagoThe World is Out There
    A cabaceiro has the same function as a hórreo

    Palas de Rei to Melidé

    June 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Whew! When you’re not well, travel is stressful and worry can cause you to lose sleep. Went to the Farmacia and found the experience to be reminiscent of the pharmacist in Doc Martin! You make your request, there is a consultation, a discussion, a decision and a justification, then your Prep H is dutifully pulled from the correct storage drawer and given with a lengthy admonishment and an offer of instruction. Though when I pulled out my credit card, I did get the stink eye. So with my new meds, along with increased fiber pills, increased water and ibuprofen gel caps, The Way was well.Read more

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    Melidé

    June 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    At the end of dinner, a man, whom I thought to be Australian, turned me and asked, do you speak English? I replied, “Un poquito, why do you ask?” “Ha, Ha, an American!” And he limped off. His table mates explained that his shoes over the past two days and 25 km have been golf shoes and they are putting him in a taxi tomorrow. Samantha, Nick James and Grainne James are Irish and invited me over for a glass of wine. It was Grainnes’ 60th birthday yesterday and they are traveling the last 100km of The Del Norte Way. Eventually they will meet a larger group in Salamanca. A good time of fellowship and discussing parenting and Grainnes advice (she is a psychologist). Be open to reconciliation and “make an intentional space” for it.

    I will hike back to Furelos to try to catch its uncommon crucifix. The elder brother of the pair that runs Carlos 96 advises it’s a market day in Melidé which will be fun.
    Made it to the Igrexa de San Xoan de Furelos, but sadly the church has been closed since Covid. It’s crucifix is supposed to be unique since Christ is atypically pointing one hand to heaven while the other reaches to earth.

    Regrouped and found the Sunday market in Melidé and went to mass at Igrexa San Pedro de Melidé. Found the historical cultural museum across the street, housed in a former Hospital.    Read more

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    Pulperia Garnacha (octopus tavern)

    June 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    This is the place to go for octopus or Pulpo.

    I had Pulpo de La plancha, grilled with potato’s, olive oil, chives and Bierzo paprika

    Different texture. It’s chewy if mishandled/overcooked. Done correctly, it’s sort of like a dense filet mignon?. There are two distinct layer: one thin on the surface maybe 2-3 mm which includes the suction cups. This is best lightly crisped. Below that a much thicker layer, circular around the axial axis of the tentacle.

    You tenderize the inner layer by cutting pieces along a tangential axis, thinner slice = more tender, kind of like with corned beef    Read more

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    A Scout is Helpful

    June 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    This bridge that predates the Roman era, I saw in a display in the museum in Melidé, so I wanted to snap a picture. As I packed up, an older woman approached the bridge and stopped. She and I have been passing each other for five days. She looked at the bridge and then at the creek and started to cry. I asked, “Are you OK?” “Le Pont C’est tres deficile.” “The bridge is very difficult.” Pas problem, Granmere. Ici”. “No problem Grandma, here”. I got myself to the other side, took off my pack, put my poles down and went back over, where a line was forming with four Spanish bike riders who started immediately hollering. I said, “Uno momento por la abuela!” I signaled for her to take off her pack. She got wide eyed and almost started to say no, but then unbuckled and gave me her pack and poles. I held her hand and we inched across in small careful steps. She got a little tipsy and these two guys immediately hopped into the shin deep water on either side and steadied her. “Merci monsieur, merci.” “De ríen, Granmere. Aujeudui, nous allons avec Dieu”. “It’s nothing Grandma. Today we go with God”

    Oui! Oui! Merci beaucoups monsieur!”

    May I walk this day 
in the realm of grace, 
walking with You 
my feet firmly on your earth-path, 
my heart loving all as kindred, 
my words and deeds alive with justice. 
May I walk as blessing, 
meeting blessing at every turn 
in every challenge, blessing, 
in all opposition, blessing, 
in harm's way, blessing. 
May I walk each step in this moment of grace, 
alert to hear You 
and awake enough to say 
a simple Yes. 
Robert Corin Morris    Read more

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