• Day 12 - Hiking in the Pyrénées

      Ayer, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      I was awoken at 5am by Jackie informing me that it was raining. Thank you for that information! I dozed listening to the rain until 6.30am, when the rain subsided and I needed a wee. When I got up I discovered that rain gets through just a mesh door and we had puddles in the tent amongst all our electricals. We had also left the camp chairs etc out overnight.

      Instead of going back to bed, I continued researching cheap campsites along the south west coast of France. Jackie managed to surface at 8.05am, then spent the following hour beautifying herself. The biggest drama of the morning was searching first the tent, then the car and finally the whole campsite for her sunglasses. The ridiculous thing about this whole episode is that Jackie never wears her sunglasses as sunglasses, but more as a glorified alice-band. We set off at 9.10am, ten minutes later than my itinerary read.

      It was a 36 mile (one hour) drive south to the Pyrenean village of Lescun. It was a pleasant journey, with just a short 10 minute uphill hairpin drive to the village of Lescun which is perched at an altitude of 900 metres. We got lucky and found a free parking space in the village centre as soon as we arrived.

      After parking up, we donned our walking boots, trainers and rucksacks then headed to the start of a hike on my AllTrails App. Jackie will kill me for saying this, but for some reason she went commando in her Navratilova’s Mk 2.

      Our route I had selected was a listed as a 2.7 mile moderate hike around a circular route up and down a mountain. It was a cool start, but as soon as we ‘Buster Shuffle’ (I’m not going to explain) and started climbing the clouds disappeared and we were under the beating sun.

      A French trio of a similar age were just ahead of us and we caught up and chatted with them every time they took a rest break. The man and two women were very lovely and chatty.

      The hike was an absolute delight with stunning scenery at every turn with huge birds of prey soaring above and below. My best guess (as a young ornithologist) is that they were Eurasian Griffin Vultures. Butterflies were everywhere, but sadly so were the French cousins of our horseflies, which feasted on our sweat sodden bodies.

      The hike was recorded as 3.1 miles long, with an elevation gain of 1,115ft and took us a total of 2 hours 28 minutes, but in our defence we stopped for ages trying to get a decent photo of the vultures and butterflies. I failed.

      I could describe the hike in more detail, but hopefully my photos tell the story!!!

      We arrived back in Lescun just after 1pm dripping with sweat from head to toe. We identified the restaurant of our choice then returned to the car to change out of our sodden clothes….well I did.

      We returned our chosen lunch stop, Hotel Du Pic D’anie and sat down at an outside table in the square. There were two restaurants in the village square both with outside tables occupied by fellow hikers, including our French trio, but the village surprisingly could not be in any way described as busy.

      We ordered 2 very well earned large draught beers, then an omelette dish and a tart dish. The very likeable waiter later brought out 2 omelette dishes. When I corrected him, he was so so apologetic and offered to give me a free beer to compensate whilst they freshly cooked my tart.

      The food was delicious, homemade and with locally sourced ingredients. It was all very lovely and went down well with a 2nd large beer each.

      For dessert, I ordered a cheesecake that wasn’t a cheesecake, but contained locally produced cheese, which was the waiter’s particular preference.

      When we went to pay, the friendly waiter who had already knocked off for the lunchtime shift had left instructions not to charge me for the dessert. How very nice!

      We drove back to camp via an Intermarché Supermarket and bought more provisions, mainly wine and sweets.

      We returned to camp and to our horror discovered that we had 2 new vehicles as neighbours. The 1st occupants we saw were 2 lookalike ‘Onslow’ brothers in white vests drinking beer.

      One of their vehicles was a traditional mobile home, but the other brother had a transit van with a double bed on a raised shelf in the back. It was then that it was confirmed to us that these were true ‘pikeys’. And we know this from firsthand knowledge of such a vehicle!

      It was 32*C with very little shade back at our pitch, so we headed to the pool. We were enjoying the relative peace when the Englishman who had the pool outburst the previous evening arrived.

      He was fantastic entertainment for all the wrong reasons. He is a deaf northerner with a dour accent who talks loudly and incessantly.

      His wife commenced lengths of the pool whilst he crept in with a pool noodle under his armpits. He clearly can’t swim, so treads water up and down the pool.

      Every time his wife got anywhere within earshot he would bellow questions at his swimming wife or just relate stories at her.

      Both Jackie and I strained our ears over the general pool hub-bub to hear what he was loudly saying, but it was difficult. Then all of a sudden it went quiet and we both astonished to him him bellow “…She is not really bothered. Just like you and sex”. His wife just swam off.

      Soon after, a brother and sister, probably 6 - 8 years old, arrived at the pool whilst their parents watched from an outside table. The siblings were jumping in and out of the water, when suddenly old misery guts referring to the kids shouted to his wife, “F@cking retards can’t read the signs”.

      He constantly returned to the theme that people couldn’t read the pool signs. I was biding my time to jump down his throat and tell him he was the f…ing retard for wearing his flip-flops around the pool. Everyone else left their footwear outside the pool and walked through the foot bath as per the sign!

      He and his wife departed sometime later and he then found another English couple to rant and rave about the pool rules not being complied with. He was still going when we left the pool area 30 minutes later.

      That evening Jackie knocked up a delicious hot and spicy arrabbiata penne pasta on our new snazzy cooker. We had a house music concert in the distance as a musical accompaniment to our dinner.

      Receptionist Lydia had told us about the concert, which was free, but we had forgotten about it. We could have been tempted to go. It sounded quite good.

      Song of the Day - Mountain at My Gates by Foals.
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    • Day 11 - Pool & Pizza Day

      4 de julio, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      I woke up at 5.50am, got up and stayed up to give Jackie an undisturbed lie-in being the considerate husband I am. The plan for the day was to do nothing but lie beside the pool and have a on-site pizza that evening.

      The weather forecast was for unadulterated sun getting up to 31*C, before 3 days of potentially unsettled weather in which we had plans to get out and about.

      Jackie arose just before 9am and insisted I put out our sarongs on the sun beds beside the pool to ensure our spot. Dutifully I complied at the same time an elderly chatty lady who was going for a swim. She seemed slightly irked when I laid out the sarongs and did a runner. I suspect she thought I was going to do a few lengths with her!

      We had toasted bacon sandwiches for breakfast then hit the pool around 10.30am, which we had totally to ourselves for the 1st half hour, before dribs and drabs turned up for a swim and left.

      Lunch consisted of cheese and crackers, cake and wine. Over lunch we selected our preferred campsite for our next week’s camping and sent them an email. Finally, we pre-ordered our campsite pizza (and frites for Jackie) for 8pm.

      We returned to the pool and lapped up the sun. A miserable French woman sternly told 3 boys off for presumably making too much noise. I was all for it, but Jackie thought that she was out of order. The boys went quiet and left the pool area, however within 10 minutes two different families arrived and the kids splashed and shouted about, causing the miserable French women and her husband to pack up and leave.

      Around 6pm, we received an email from our chosen campsite near Saint-Jean-de-Luz to say that they were fully booked…..bugger. We packed up pretty soon after, showered then started the research process all over again. We were struggling to find any camping accommodation on the Atlantic coast in the French Basque region that wasn’t fully booked.

      Our research and the whole campsite was disturbed by an Englishman at the pool shouting at two lesbians who were in the bar to keep their kids under control. The lesbians and their 3 children arrived last night and are in the pitch next to us. The kids are slightly feral, but I’m not sure they deserved such a dramatic outburst.

      Just before 8pm, we trundled down to the bar and bought 2 small draft beers and collected our pizza and frites. The pizza was ok but it was just ingredients sprinkled on a frozen pizza base and heated up. The frites were not much better. The beer was very strong, but the highlight of the night was a Welshman, who we had earlier exchanged‘Bonjours’, who whipped out his mandolin. He started playing (let’s say tentatively, to be kind) and singing, more like mumbling badly, various well known tunes (What is it with the Welsh? They are all convinced they are good singers!).

      He invited requests to play, but strangely he wasn’t able or didn’t know any of my suggestions!! It turned out he was using a tablet for the song words that had a limited number of song titles.

      An English couple with 2 dogs were sat on the Welshman’s table. The husband also attempted to play a second mandolin and then the wife started singing along, but when she did he stopped playing. Apparently her singing put him off. It was hilarious.

      All the other campers, including the dykes, had a lovely time singing along with the Welshman. It was a weird experience that could only happen when camping. You don’t get this sort of entertainment in a posh hotel!

      We ordered another strong beer and Jackie seized the opportunity of my ‘vulnerable mood’ to encourage me to book a hotel for a couple of nights in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. I did, I chose the best rated one on Booking.com at a cost more than I am normally happy or willing to pay for a hotel, but Jackie insisted it was a 30th wedding anniversary present to each other. It was hard to argue.

      We returned to our tent and after a wine nightcap, Jackie went to bed not long after 9.30pm. She was worried she would struggle to get up for her 7.45am alarm!!

      I stayed up for an hour longer, rueing my rash Booking.com purchase and seeing if I could offset the cost by looking for exceptionally cheap campsites to stay at for the remainder of our trip!

      Song of the Day - Swimming Pool by Marie Madeleine.
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    • Day 10 - Menu du Jour

      3 de julio, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      I woke up at 7am having had a wonderful sleep, possibly still stunned from my previous night’s fall. Apparently it also caused me to snore and keep Jackie awake all night. So much for the 10pm to 8am quiet time!

      I got out of bed, dressed and attempted to exit the tent. It goes without saying that I tripped up on the bulge at the tent door and my adventure sandal went flying. I have become a clumsy oaf!!

      I sat outside in the cool morning non-mountainous air and commenced my blog. Jackie finally joined me at 9am, claiming she had only had a total of two hours sleep. We had a coffee and faffed around. The weather forecast was cloudy, but brightening up at the end of the day.

      At 10am we went up to reception and spoke to the receptionist who didn’t speak quite as good English as Lydia had led us to believe. Anyhow, we managed to get her to book us lunch at L’auberge De La Fontaine in Laàs, which Lydia had highly recommended, particularly the €18 four course lunch. We had a table booked for 1pm, which was the latest we could arrive for lunch.

      We showered, put on our best clothes and left at 12.15pm for the 7 mile drive to Laàs. We arrived 15 minutes later to find the restaurant already virtually full with lunchtime diners. We were shown to our reserved romantic table for 2. It was like we were celebrating our 30th wedding anniversary! The restaurant was quintessentially French as Lydia had promised.

      We ordered the ‘Menu du Jour’ (also known as a Plat du Jour) and a large carafe of red wine. The waitress had doubts that we understood the size of carafe we were ordering, so she returned with two sizes of jug. We obviously chose the larger one.

      The red wine was sumptuous and slipped down nicely. The 1st course arrived as a huge vat of Béarnaise Garbure, a hearty peasant soup with ham, duck, beans and numerous vegetables. We managed 2 bowls each.

      The 2nd course was a large plate of Parma ham and succulent melon. The 3rd course was Guinea fowl, potatoes and petits pois à la française. Meat on the bone is generally a challenge for me, but I overcame this obstacle to the extent that I picked up the carcass and nibbled the meat off the bone like the locals were doing. As I always say “When in Rome”. We ate the lot.

      The final course was dessert. There was a choice of nine desserts, Jackie ordered the crème brûlée and I had the tart avec apricots. Delicious. We finished the meal with a café au lait each.

      It had been a superb lunch experience and the best part was the entire meal had cost us just €50. We were so impressed, I left them a nice tip AND because we will probably be going back!

      During lunch, an elderly woman turned round and said it was nice to hear an English voice. It turned out to be an American woman called Mary who was having lunch with her husband, Bob and their Australian shepherd dog. We learnt that they moved to Navarrenx from North Carolina in 2003. They are friends with the previous owners of our campsite and have a grandson currently studying economics at Brighton University (small world). Mary told us that they lived in the pink house near the Fontaine Militaire in Navarrenx and she would love it if knocked on their door if we were passing. I hope she wasn’t just being polite, because she may live to regret saying that!! As they were leaving, Bob recommended another local restaurant which he reckoned was the best in all of the south of France.

      We returned to the campsite via Audaux, where we located Bob’s restaurant recommendation, Auberge Claverie. We were too full just now for a second menu of the day, but we will definitely visit during this coming week .

      As we were leaving we were followed out by the three diners sitting behind Jackie. The 2 women followed us into La Boutique du Palais De La Principaute, where we were confronted by a golden throne. One of the ladies suggested Jackie sit on it for a photo, but Jackie declined, by saying “No thanks, it’s so tacky”. As soon as she uttered those words, it dawned on me that the 2 ladies worked in the boutique. I ushered Jackie out of the building as quickly and as discreetly as I could with her exclaiming “Well I thought it was”.

      I didn’t obviously take a photo, but I did find the throne on a website which I screenshotted and included in the photos for this blog.

      We continued on back to camp and festered in our camp chairs too stuffed to contemplate going out for a walk. At 6.30pm, the sun was out and we summoned the energy to go walking. Jackie donned her new Navratilovas Mk2, which is a short beige skirt with built in undershorts that had a large gap in the gusset for air circulation, presumably.

      Our first stop was the very enticing town swimming pool directly outside our campsite. Mary had told us that it was closed during CoVid, renovated and it never properly opened again. She liked to swim and was going to complain about its closure to the town mayor.

      We then commenced my planned walk down Rue De La Fontaine Prat, then down Chemin De Bererenx, where we were attacked by spinning crop water sprayer. At the bottom we reached the river, Gave d’Oloron, where an unsavoury looking family had set up camp and were splashing around in the river. It would have been a very scenic spot if there had been no-one else around to blot the landscape.

      We walked back the way we came and got attacked by the water sprayer again. Jackie tried but failed to outrun the spray with her little legs pumping below her Navratilovas. She reminded me of someone, then it finally came to me - Lofty from ‘It Ain’t Half Hot Mum’.

      We continued into Navarrenx and located the Fontaine Militaire, then Bob and Mary’s house with pink shutters. It looked nice, but not as big as we had anticipated and it didn’t have a garden. We returned to camp around 8pm, stopping at Carrefour Express on the way, where we bought bread and bacon for breakfast.

      Cake and wine completed the evening, while we tried to plan the itinerary for the coming days and future campgrounds.

      Song of the Day - Feast of Consequences by Fish.
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    • Day 9 - And Now For Something……..

      2 de julio, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      ……..Completely Different.

      I woke up 6.20am with Jackie bashing my leg to inform me that there was an animal rummaging around outside the tent. Under sufferance, I donned my boxers and went to investigate. There was nothing there, but we later deduced that it was a flock of sparrows attacking a stale slice of bread we had kept to feed them in the morning.

      Needless to say I couldn’t get back to sleep, so I sat outside, completed my blog and watched an episode of Boardwalk Empire on my iPad with coffees until Jackie finally surfaced over an hour later.

      The weather was cloudy and didn’t reach above 24*C, but that didn’t stop us sweating profusely as we disassembled camp. It took us about two and a half hours to pack everything away into the car until it was bursting at the seems. Luckily we didn’t have an extra keel to load us down even further!!!

      We did have one major issue in that I had tightened the valve on my airbed so tight that we couldn’t undo. Our fingers were red raw with trying. After all our attempts had failed, I resorted to carrying the fully inflated double airbed across the site to a foreign couple of campers with a catamaran. He kindly produced a pair of adjustable pliers that did the trick. Note : We need to buy some tools.

      We drove out of Camping Campéole Navarrosse Plage at 10.50am loaded to the gunnels apart from our stomachs. Jackie informed me we would stop for breakfast once we were on the road. The SatNav was set for Moilets-et-Maa on the longer, but lower emissions route.

      An hour and a half later, we rolled into Moilets-et-Maa having passed numerous patisseries and boulangeries that for one reason or another didn’t appeal to Jackie. I knew she secretly wanted a McDonalds.

      We stopped at Moilets-et-Maa because it apparently had a child-free (adult only sometimes means something entirely different!) campsite and one of the best beaches in the region. The town centre was like a fairground, so we headed to the beach and encountered tourists/surfers that apparently thought it was acceptable to walk down the middle of the road looking at their phones and oblivious to the oncoming traffic ie me. Jackie prevented me from hooting my horn at these idiots and thus road rage was averted.

      At the end of the road to the beach there was a turning down a narrow private road that our SatNav was sending us to the ‘child-free’ campsite. Jackie insisted we drive down it, which i stupidly did with a couple of snooty locals looking at us in disbelief or maybe disgust. Two hundred metres down the road we encountered a locked gate to the campsite that clearly was closed and unoccupied. Brilliant!! We looked for somewhere to turn round but there was not a hope in hell of such a manoeuvre. Instead we had the indignity of reversing the entire 200 metres back the way we came with local residents coming out to watch without a hint of an offer to help. We drove out of Moilets-et-Maa with no intention of ever returning.

      At a convenient moment I set the SatNav to take us to the little and apparently quaint coastal town of Saint-Jean-de-Luz. The route took us alongside Lac d’Hossegor and on to Capbreton, whereupon I espied a suitable Boulangerie that Jackie couldn’t find fault with. The Boulanger spoke perfectly English and was very helpful. I ordered a massive slab of cheese and bacon quiche, whilst Jackie bought a ham and cheese baguette along with a couple of cafe au laits.

      We ate it outside under a parasol to keep the fine drizzle off, whilst keeping up to date with the test match cricket score. We can’t actually listen to the BBC commentary while we are abroad…..much to Jackie’s relief!

      My lunch break was ruined alas, when I received a couple of gloating WhatsApp videos from my brother of him and his family, who are also holidaying in France, stand-up paddle boarding. I was impressed briefly, until I realised they were actually having paddle board lessons with an instructor AND they were wearing wetsuits. They probably also had a central fin on their boards!!

      We continued our journey now in Basque Country, passing through the outskirts of the regional capital city of Bayonne (Famous for its chocolate apparently), then took the bypass around Biarritz. Shortly after 3pm we arrived in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, once home to whalers turned pirates and now a popular beach holiday destination with stunning French Basque architecture.

      We drove through the ancient town centre streets to the sandy beach surrounding the crescent shaped bay and instantly loved the look of the place. We vowed to research the possibility of camping in the area. We didn’t stop to explore as we needed to get to our next campsite and in any event we never came across an empty parking space.

      It was an hour and 48 minute (60 miles) drive eastwards on non-toll narrow rural roads to our next campsite at Navarrenx. Our journey passed dozens of ‘Fromage’ establishments and farms and it was slow going as we encountered numerous farm vehicles including a ginormous combine harvester. We followed it for several miles before I built up the courage to overtake the monstrous vehicle.

      Just after 5pm we arrived at the fortified town of Navarrenx in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques. It wasn’t how we imagined it. We had visions of it being up a mountain surrounded by higher mountains, but we hadn’t spotted a single mountain or even big hill on our drive!

      We located the Beau Rivage Campsite, parked up and introduced ourselves to Lydia in reception. Lydia was English with a West Country accent and most importantly extremely helpful. We advised her we had a big tent and she ensured we had an adequately large pitch. She advised us about walks, places to visit and restaurants.

      We then set up camp in our spacious grassy pitch no. 7 and even managed to squeeze our car along side the tent. We somehow managed to develop an unsightly bulge on the floor entrance to our tent. We shifted the tent poles backwards and forward, loosened and tightened guy ropes, but nothing would flatten the bulge. I can guarantee it won’t take long for one of us to trip up on it.

      It was getting late, so we changed and made ourselves look half presentable. We walked into the fortified town centre and to Le Taverne de St Jacques. We ordered a couple of burgers and fries, because the menu was in French and the waitress only spoke a little English. We couldn’t be bothered and too hungry to translate the menu. We also ordered a litre of house rose. It was all very lovely. Thank god Jackie didn’t get her way and stop for a Big Mac earlier!!!

      We waddled back to camp whereupon Jackie promptly fell asleep in her chair. I sent her to bed and did some googling on my iPad with the luxury of free fast campsite WiFi and a glass of wine. The silence was golden around the campsite that has a strict quiet time between 10pm and 8am.

      At 11.30pm, I decided to call it a night. I silently crept off to the shower block with my toothbrush in hand. I descended a small wet grassy slope, when both my feet skidded from under me and my back hit the ground with a massive whack and a cry of pain from me. I was winded and battered, but the worse part was that my Apple Watch started bleeping loudly with the message ‘It looks like you have taken a hard fall’. SOS Emergency Call. It was a right kerfuffle as I struggled to turn the my bleeping watch without calling the emergency services.

      What an end to the evening. We have definitely announced our arrival!!

      Song of the Day - The Sound of Silence by Disturbed.
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    • My kingfisher photos!!I'm guessing Jackie has already lost the central keel at this stageOur last night in Camping Campéole Navarrosse Plage

      Day 8 - Paddle Board For Sale….

      1 de julio, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      ….One Careful Owner, Hardly Stood Up On….oh and a missing central keel.

      We woke up having had the best sleep so far. The previous night’s hypnotist must have been better than I thought or maybe it was the alcohol!

      After breakfast of coffee and toast, Jackie put on some washing while I finished my blog.

      Once our freshly washed clothes were hung up on the line we hit the beach. It is our last full day at this campsite and I had promised myself that I would be standing up on my paddle board by the end of our week here, so I needed to get practicing.

      I went straight out on the board and immediately fell off 5 times flat on my back. Jackie waded out and told me that my technique was all wrong. I need to relax and stay still on the board, which seems impossible for me particularly with my arthritic right foot. As I stand up I start to shake violently all over and raise a leg and hop about like a flamingo with MS before keeling over dead.

      Jackie took over, stood up and paddled off into the distance. I’m close to admitting defeat.

      We later took it out for a sit down paddle back to back. I suspect we looked like a particularly ‘sexy’ version of the Kappa logo.

      Our paddle turned into a water safari, when I spotted a metallic blue flash in the bushes to the side of the lake. It turned out to be a pair of Kingfishers known in France as martin-pêcheur and are a protected species in France since 1981. You cannot catch them , hunt them, or even pick one up when it is dead!!!

      Jackie couldn’t see anything because she was not wearing her contact lenses or glasses, so we returned to the beach.

      It was nearly one o’clock, so we retired to the shade for lunch. Jackie knocked up a selection of cheese on crisp breads with a beer and wine

      After lunch I went out solo on the paddle board with my waterproof camera in search of the kingfishers Maybe I could become an expert aquatic wildlife photographer instead. Hopefully my kingfisher photos will be testament to that!!

      I learnt to recognise the kingfishers distinctive shrill "tchiii" call as they flitted past me and out of sight on several occasions. Each time I tried to prime my camera to take a photo the little buggers flew away. Eventually one rested on a branch and I pointed the camera and shot blindly at him.

      I returned later with Jackie now wearing her glasses. The oaf on the back fell off the board and evidently scared the kingfishers away. Jackie soon got bored when they didn’t return and made inane comments that she had spotted a jaguar, then a crocodile. I paddled her back to the beach because she was nothing more than a hindrance. Apparently I am now a boring twitcherer!!

      I did have one final unsuccessful attempt to capture the kingfishers in their natural habitat. Jackie also had a final stand up paddle that lasted just a few seconds twice!

      We finished the remainder of the afternoon sun on the beach with a glass of wine or two and contemplated the packing up process.

      Around 7pm I carried the paddle board back to camp and turned it over to deflate it. It was then that I discovered that the larger central keel was missing, which explained why the board had become less stable so that even Jackie struggled to stand up on it.

      I was mildly irritated to say the least, particularly as I had repeatedly said to Jackie to be careful of the keels when she insisted on lying on the board on the beach and when she persistently grounded the board on the shallow sand banks in the lake.

      Apparently I could have lost the keel when I kept falling off. I’m starting to wonder if it was an act of sabotage to prevent me becoming a master paddle boarder.

      The packing up commenced in stony silence. We had more cheese and crackers for our tea and had an early night.

      Song of the Day - Sabotage by Suede.
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    • Day 7 - Enter the Sandman

      30 de junio, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      It had been an incredibly hot night in the tent. I was kept awake until 1.30am by what sounded like a party on the beach.

      I went for a wee around 6.30am and saw that the sunrise had turned both the sky and lake pink. By the time I got back and grabbed my phone everything was orange.

      We got up around 8.30am for coffee and toast, then packed up for an exploratory day out.

      As we were leaving, I picked up my wraparound sunglasses, but Jackie piped up, “Don’t take them, I’ve packed your nice new ones in my rucksack”. How thoughtful!!

      We broke the shackles and drove out of the campsite around 10am following the road clockwise around Le Lac de Cazaux et de Sanguinet. It was a stunning 16 mile drive which took us through pine forests and soon views out into the Atlantic Ocean.

      Within half an hour we arrived at our first stop, La Dune du Pilat. It is free to visit La Dune du Pilat, but for people like us arriving by car there is a very reasonable €7 parking fee.

      La Dune du Pilat is the highest sand dune in Europe and consists of 60 million cubic meters of sand. The Pilat Dune measures 100 to 115 m high, depending on the time of year. . The dune is 2.7km in length and 500m wide. It also shifts roughly one to five metres per year eastwards due to the tides and occasional heavy winds. It’s the only moving dune on the Aquitaine coast.

      It attracts more than two million visitors each year. Let’s hope they don’t all decide today’s the day!!

      After parking the car, I could see that it was blazing hot and sunglasses were essential to protect the eyes from the reflective white sand. Jackie handed me my new sunglasses case , which I opened and to my utter disbelief I discovered that it only contained Jackie’s reading glasses.

      To say I was not impressed would be an understatement. I had visions of my retinas being scorched and I would need to read by braille for the rest of my life.

      We walked along the lengthy sandy entranceway to the dune with various cafes, gift shops, toilets and information centres on either side. We were sweating profusely by the time we reached the bottom of the sand dune and of course my eyes were burning.

      We had 2 choices, scale the steep sand mountain in front of us or walk up the 160 step stairway to the top. We chose the latter which was more than enough exertion for one day, particularly without sunglasses to protect my eyes.

      There were plenty of tourists on the top of the dune, but not too many to annoy us, even when 2 coaches of school kids reached the summit.

      We took the usual photos and even dropped down to a lower ridge for a better view of the entrance to Arcachon Bay. It was geographically stunning. I could describe it further, but I’ll let the photos do the talking (or not!!).

      We shimmied down the vertical sand slope back to where we started and then walked back to the car covered head to foot in the very fine sand. Sand was in every pockets, shoe and sock and for some reason stuck to every inch of my oiled up body and head. We were probably there for not much more than an hour, but it was definitely worth the visit.

      Our next stop was the Decathlon store ten minutes down the road in La Teste-de-Buch. I had hoped to buy a pair of binoculars, because annoyingly I had forgotten to pack mine. I didn’t like the bins they had for sale, so instead we bought a flashier (and more expensive) new gas cooker and a couple more expensive (but bigger) gas canisters.

      Next stop on the itinerary was Cap Ferret. It was just 15 miles across the water from La Dune du Pilat, but 43 miles on the shortest route around Arcachon Bay. It was a pleasant but sedate drive to Cap Ferret which took over an hour. We stopped near the end of the Cap Ferret peninsula outside a restaurant called Chez Hortense.

      It had its own private garden and mains started at €45. We decided it was too upmarket for our taste, so we walked to the water’s edge and took some photos back towards La Dune du Pilat. It was spectacular with mist hanging low under the dunes.

      We drove back along the Arcachon Bay shore line and found a collection of eating establishments. After a bit of too-ing and fro-ing we settled on Chez Boulan, which turned out to be a posh oyster shack and NOT a restaurant as the owner was keen to inform us. We were sat at a table under a large parasol with a view of the bay.

      There were only 3 things on the menu - oysters, shrimps or pâté. Jackie ordered 6 oysters and I ordered the country pâté. It was delicious and washed down with a bottle of Sauvignon blanc and a couple of bottles of complimentary ice cold water. It was €41 well spent.

      After lunch we circumnavigated Arcachon Bay and back to Biscarrosse with the windows fully down to get some air. When the outside air temperature reached 38*C even I relented and let Jackie close the windows and put the air conditioning on. I had visions of the 2 ‘bigger’ gas canisters in the back of the car exploding!

      We returned to E.Leclerc (Sponsors of the Tour de France Polka Dot Jersey) and bought 3 x 5l boxes of white wine and some snacks.

      Back at camp, I had a quick dip in the lake that was warmer than most baths I’ve had, then we relaxed in the shade with a wine or two and fed the sparrows our non-Lays crisps.

      After showers, we returned to the Pétanque arena for our final match at this venue. In the first game, I built up a commanding lead 12-5, but inexplicably Jackie fought back and beat me 13-12. She then decided that pizza was more important than pétanque.

      As we were packing up, 2 polite young French boys asked if they could play with our boules, which we obviously agreed to. They played a game with their parents before returning them to us.

      Jackie ordered a spicy pizza which we ate with our own beer, whilst watching a Hypnotist act on stage. The hypnotist did a lot of talking in French, which we obviously didn’t understand before finally getting nine people up on stage and putting them to sleep. He did this by putting his arm around their necks in some sort of choke hold, then snapping their head to the side. I wasn’t sure if we were watching hypnotism or mass murder!

      The only thing of note during the show was he made one woman keep running off stage as if she was desperate to use the toilet and another woman was clearly only pretending to be hypnotised because she kept giggling. I am still not convinced by it all, but the show made for an entertaining end to the day.

      Song of the Day - Hypnotised by Simple Minds.
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    • Day 6 - Not an Expert Just Yet

      29 de junio, Francia ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

      Woke up at 5.30am feeling slightly sunburnt.It had been a hot day which we had spent under the blazing sun often on the water. I went for a wee and witnessed a gorgeous sunrise.

      I watched several downloaded episodes of The Office (US) which annoyingly is being taken off Sky tomorrow.

      We emerged from our tent at 8.30am to discover our neighbours had already gone and others were nearly packed up to go. It wasn’t long before I was sent to the grocery shop with a list of what to buy. I failed on every count according to Jackie.

      The special offer bread ran out of date too soon, the 3l box of wine looked too yellow and was probably too sweet, the milk was semi skimmed not skimmed, the crisps we discovered at lunch were not the best (not Lays) and I didn’t buy any fruit because it looked too complicated!

      Jackie cooked up scrambled eggs on toast with bacon for breakfast which was lovely. It seems she’s getting the hang of this cooking malarkey. An added breakfast bonus was that I somehow managed to connect my iPad to the E-Sim on my phone.

      It was late morning by the time we got to the beach. I continued to entertain the beach goers with my pathetic attempts to paddle board standing up.

      I must point out that Jackie fell off on her first attempt this morning and I caught it on video.

      We have used the board a lot to paddle around the lake. Our most effective position is sitting on the board back to back, which allows for greater leverage when one of us is paddling,

      It was another hot day and lunch in the shade couldn’t come soon enough. Today we had mature English cheddar cheese sandwiches and the inferior crisps I bought.

      Over lunch we had another revelation, when I discovered how we can connect our iPads to our phone E-Sims. All we had to do was turn Airplane Mode on, which makes absolutely no sense at all.

      The afternoon consisted of more paddle boarding antics and a wine induced siesta. Jackie improved at videoing, preferably without the commentary. I tried to add music to the video, but I should have played the accompanying soundtrack through a speaker and not through my phone as the 2nd video will demonstrate.

      I’ve come to the conclusion that balancing is not my thing particularly with my arthritic right foot and I’m afraid to admit that I think there is also a perfect weight to board ratio for it that I’m the wrong side of.

      I shall be withdrawing my application for my inclusion in the GB paddle board team at Los Angeles Olympics in 2028. I haven’t ruled out the GB canoe team, but most likely in the Paralympics at this rate!!!

      We left the beach around 7pm and Jackie announced that she didn’t feel up to another game of pétanque. She blamed it on having a swollen foot which she has self diagnosed as Policeman’s Foot. I think she means Policeman’s Heel, which it isn’t.

      After showers, we relaxed in the shade and chilled before dinner. I played my part by occasionally stirring the rice for our 2nd night of a very hot, but beautiful chilli con carne.

      Song of the Day - Don’t Fall by The Chameleons.
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    • Day 5 - A Balancing Act

      28 de junio, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      I had a good sleep and wasn’t awoken. I assumed that I obviously didn’t snore, but apparently I did and Jackie had hit me numerous times but I didn’t wake up. It might have something to do with my ears being waterlogged from all that paddle board falling.

      Breakfast consisted of toasted bacon sandwiches, which was the first decent bit of hot meat that we had eaten since arriving in France.

      After all the usual chores we hit the beach and did a circuit of the lake. I was sat down paddling on the front, whilst cocky Jackie stood up on the back and gave me a tutorial on how to stand up.

      Throughout the morning, I tried several times to stand on my board without success. An elderly gentleman offered to hold my board for me, but I declined for fear of kicking him in the head during a fall.

      On one occasion I managed to on the very back of the board long enough for it to sink then fly out of the water like Shamu, the killer whale.

      My best effort was when I got up for less than 10 seconds but my legs were shaking out of control like the proverbial ‘sh!tting dog’.

      My session ended when I took yet another tumble and smashed my shin on my oar, which smarted somewhat.

      I have no photographic evidence because Jackie claims she can’t see the screen on the phones.

      Jackie then took great delight in showing me how it was done by standing up on the board first time. She paddled around the lake and returned to shore as smug as you like.

      I intend to seek my revenge by trouncing her on the Pétanque court.

      Jackie started to make chili con carne at lunch, but realised that she had forgotten to pack a tin opener. I walked around the campsite with a tin of kidney beans in hand doing my best Marcel Marceau impression trying to find someone with a can opener. On my 5th tent /camper van, a nice man handed me a tin opener. Unfortunately cooking is not my specialty and when I tried to open my can, the opener went spinning across his lovely table. He opened the can for me to a chorus of “Merci, merci, Merci”. I’m not even sure he was French!!

      After lunch of sliced egg sandwiches, we took the board out yet again. It was now quite choppy as a welcome breeze had made its usual afternoon appearance.

      Jackie suggested I have another go at standing up, which was a ridiculous idea. Jackie thought that she was too expert now to be put off by the waves.

      In the space of two seconds flat, she had stood up and immediately face planted the board. It looked painful, but Jackie wasn’t going to admit that she had hurt herself. Oh dear, never mind. Sadly, it all happened too quickly for me to photograph it.

      After showers, we returned to the Pétanque Stadium. We were accompanied by a 3 piece rock band on the stage playing cover versions by the White Stripes, Metallica Dire Straits etc It was like playing at the Super-bowl!!!

      The 1st game I won easily 13-5. Halfway through other pétanque players arrived and we were forced to play the game properly and not a long game across 5 pitches.

      In the second game I inexplicably lost 13-6. I’d like to say I let Jackie win to stop her getting disheartened, but alas not.

      It seems that we both excelled at a sport then we stumbled and fell when we were getting too confident and blasé.

      We didn’t have time for a decider, instead we returned to camp for chilli con carne and an early night.

      Song of the Day - Stumble and Fall by Razorlight.
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    • Day 4 - Pétanque Champion

      27 de junio, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      It was a good nights sleep. I only got hit once. I got up just after 7am and wrote my blog, whilst Jackie wallowed in her pit.

      Breakfast consisted of a fruit platter and toast with our fancy little toaster gadget.

      After a short walk around the entire campsite and an inspection of the brand new swimming pool complex. We returned to our tent and hit the beach.

      I had a tentative go on the paddle board and tried to stand up twice before deciding I wasn’t really feeling it. Instead Jackie and I went out sat astride the board, but the one oar was painful.

      I took the bull by the horns and drove to Intersport, where I purchased a double ended paddle and a pack of 8 pétanque boules. When in Rome and all that!

      I returned to camp and Jackie knocked up ham and mustard sandwiches. We had a beer and a glass of wine over lunch and to our horror we realised that between us we had drunk 5 litres of white wine in just under 24 hours.

      After lunch we returned to the beach and we both took the board out on the lake with my new paddle which can be used as a single double ended paddle or broken into 2 separate paddles which we preferred.

      I did try standing on my board again, but it was impossible as a stiff breeze was making the lake quite choppy.

      It was 6.30pm by the time we left the beach. We anticipated that the campground would be a lot busier as it was the weekend, but actually there was one tent less with none around us.

      We then headed up to the pétanque stadium for the first clash of the titans. There was quite a crowd, but if I’m honest I think they were watching the camp entertainment on the stage.

      Pétanque is a game played to 13 points scored by a point for each of your balls nearest the Jack.

      I thrashed Jackie 13 - 3 in the first game, but in the second game Jackie was leading 12 - 11, when I snatched victory from the jaws of defeat with 2 perfect throws to win the game 13 - 12.

      It was a thoroughly entertaining game. I’m already wondering how good I can get!

      We returned to camp and Jackie made dinner - sausages and salad. That stiff breeze played havoc with the gas cooker and Jackie had to move the cooker into shelter behind the tent.

      Minutes later I heard the sound of stamping feet and the ground shuddering. I went to investigate and found Jackie furiously stamping on a burning tea towel. She had burnt 2 tea towels which she had put under the cooker to make it level.

      The sausages were finished off with the electric hot plate, but sadly they were pretty disgusting. The 4 pork sausages which we paid over €1 each for were tasteless and very very salty. After a couple of bites we were forced to bin them and eat just the salad.

      We have had two disastrous meals in a row, I’m starting to wonder if it’s more about the chef!!!!

      I returned from doing the washing up to discover that Jackie had tried to make me a cup of coffee, but had broken the gas cooker. The flint to light it is knackered.

      The night finished with half a packet of biscuits and a glass of wine.

      Song of the Day - Ball and Biscuit by The White Stripes.
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    • Day 3 - Only One Clown in Town

      26 de junio, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      I had a fantastic sleep despite being awoken several times during the night by a sharp dig in ribs. Apparently I was snoring.

      I got up around 6.30am to the sun rising over Le Lac de Cazeau et de Sanguinet (or the lake). It was a sight to behold, particularly as there was not a soul about.

      I wrote my Penguins blog on my phone in the morning tranquility.

      Jackie got up an hour later & I was dispatched to the campsite shop for a baguette. We had ate our €1 baguette with our brought from home Bovril and jam.

      The next chore of the day was to do a big food and booze shop . We drove out to a E.Leclerc supermarket where we bought 20 cans and 6 bottles of beer, as well as 11 litres of wine and some food.

      After a homemade ham and mustard baguette AND a couple of glasses of wine back at camp, we (I) inflated our brand new Paddle board. Dressed in in just reflective sunglasses and a pair of board shorts, I looked the part as I nonchalantly carried the paddle board to the totally flat fresh water lake. The phrase ’All the gear ….’ springs to mind.

      Oh what a circus! Oh what a show! the circus clown had come to town and I was the afternoon’s campsite entertainment. I tried and tried to stand up and stay up on my paddle board but I fell off time and time again. I fell off at least 30 times over 3 sessions. My arms and legs were flailing everywhere. I also managed to lose my sunglasses (again). Two attempts at paddle boarding in my life and I’ve lost a pair of sunglasses on both occasions!

      Very occasionally I was able to step off the board to the side in a fairly dignified manner, but more often than not the board shot out to the side from under me and I crashed headfirst into the water. On several occasions, I ended up running backwards along my board and falling flat on my back into the lake. I also managed to reverse the trick by running forward along my board before falling in. On one of those occasions I face planted my paddle and gave myself a fat lip. I was battered and bruised.

      All this said and done (and with a bit of YouTube tuition) I did improve and I actually stayed upright for nearly 2 minutes on one occasion. I plan to be an expert by the end of this first week.

      The lake is very shallow which makes getting onto the board quite simple, but it means you hit the bottom when you fall off. Luckily the bottom is sandy for a fairly soft landing.

      Jackie after several wines, plucked up the courage to have a go. Infuriatingly on her second attempt she tentatively paddled out and back for around 3 minutes without falling off.

      She didn’t mention it more than 100 times that she was a better paddle boarder than me.

      Jackie made steak and salad for our dinner. The €7 steaks were tough and a real disappointment. I have been told to reiterate that the tough steaks had nothing to do with Jackie’s cooking!

      That evening I sorted out the E-Sim for Jackie’s phone. She had to get the campsite Wi-Fi for a day, which was €6 for the day and not €4 per hour as I had wrongly previously stated.

      Song of the Day - Send in the Clowns by Judy Collins.
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