South America

March - July 2017
A 127-day adventure by Tom Read more
  • 27footprints
  • 4countries
  • 127days
  • 136photos
  • 0videos
  • 10.7kkilometers
  • 7.6kkilometers
  • Day 1

    Lisbon Layover

    March 6, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Day 1... From London to Lisbon, my journey started in the Portugese capital. Nice city that doesn't feel like one. Old colourful buildings and charming cobbled streets. Also my second 'Couchsurfing' experience with a cool American - Vincent. Had a great evening and great hospitality. Off to the airport in the morning for a 10hr flight to Venezuela!Read more

  • Day 2

    Time to Fly

    March 7, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Hope the next 10 hours 'fly' by... Boarding the plane to Caracas. Goodbye Europe!

  • Day 2

    Caracas Arrival

    March 7, 2017 in Venezuela ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today I arrived in the capital of Venezuela. An hour with a non-licensed non-English-speaking taxi driver tested my Spanish, but we had some good (broken) conversations and laughs. It was reassuring to hear how bad the current situation is in Venezuela, and how Caracas is not safe for tourists, there's violence, hunger and the police are corrupt....
    Anyway, I arrived safely at Joel's place, a northern English Couchsurfing host who's been here a few years. He's a really cool guy, I was greeted with beers and I met a couple of his friends as we went out for some (amazing) local food. His flat, in the centre of Los Palos Grandes, is high up and offers some pretty cool views...
    If you were to carry 200 of the highest denomination banknotes in Europe, you'd be carrying €20,000. In Venezuela, you've got about a fiver.
    Read more

  • Day 3

    Crazy Caracas - Wednesday

    March 8, 2017 in Venezuela ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The last few days in Caracas have been a bit crazy to say the least...
    On Wednesday I went to the Parque Francisco de Miranda, a huge public park that felt like a jungle. I hired a peddle-boat on the lake and watched 3-foot long iguanas pace around the banks and jump in the water. Macaw Parrots are also common and easily spotted from their bright colours and loud sqwarks.
    The park also has animal enclosures, so I saw plenty of crocodile, monkeys, tropical birds and even a jaguar!
    Anyway whilst at the park, my host Joel got his motorbike stolen from outside the hospital. His minimal reacton told me this kind of stuff happens a lot... Late that afternoon I met up with Joel and 2 of his friends; Simon (a music producer from England), and Andrew (Funny Scottish teacher at Joel's School).
    We went on an interesting trip to the bank, where it turns out getting cash in this country is near impossible! From ATMs you can only withdraw around 3,000Bs (80p) as more will not fit out of the machine! So after a 2-hour wait and various procedures in the bank, we emerged with a ridiculous carrier-bag full of cash, worth only £20. We had intended to get ten times that amount but comedically wiped out the bank and come out with fuck all. Some saw the funny side, and I found it hilarious, but for the other 3 who live hear, a good long rant at Venezuela started, leaving me in stitches...
    That Night we had a bit of a party in Andrews flat, where I met several other people, English and Venezuelan, and got very drunk. Me and Joel ended up going to a local club at 3am to see other friends of his including American Laura and Canadian Kelly (her birthday). We stayed an hour or so and got back to the flat late, before heading to the rooftop to chill and look over the city night-scape with more rum. We must have got to bed close to 5am, and Joel was up for work at 7! What a hero, I don't know how he did it...
    Read more

  • Day 4

    Crazy Caracas - Thursday

    March 9, 2017 in Venezuela ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Another strange day in this crazy city...
    on Thursday I spent most of the day Hungover on the couch, drifting in and out of sleep, I felt terrible. Meanwhile Joel and everyone from the night before were somehow at work like normal!
    That afternoon Joel was told by the police that his bike had been recovered, so he drove down to the station to get it, but no bike. There was a mix-up and it was somewhere else, so Joel left only to find within the space of 5 minutes his car had been towed. A typical day in Caracas...
    Late that afternoon He picked me up and we went to the international school where they all work. I met his work friends, ex-wife and his lovely kids, Sid and Pearl. We looked around and had a kick-abount in the playground, before heading to an incredible steakhouse restaurant.. the food was amazing, and so cheap thanks to the exchange rate...
    After, we dropped the kids off and went to pick up a Venezuelan friend - Sergio. Long story short, Joel and Sergio met on the subway 2 years ago and have been friends ever since. Sergio is a young, educated, trilingual physiotherapist who was doing very well and lives in a nice place. However, thanks to the inflation and major problems in Venezuela, he has very few clients now, so no money or food, and he often goes hungry...
    Anyway he's a really cool guy, we bought him some food and he stayed with us in the flat. We chilled out and watched a hilarious film called Vacation. By the time it finished, my sides hurt...
    Read more

  • Day 5

    Crazy Caracas - Friday

    March 10, 2017 in Venezuela ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Today I managed to get out and see and experience a lot more of the city. Early morning Joel managed to get some money for me and Sergio before going to work. Me and Serg then spent the whole day together! He took me round the city, on the subway, through the rough 'barrios', and to his appartment. I got a really good feel of life here for the locals, and could appreciate the constant struggle that Venezuelans face.
    Our highlight was taking the 'teleferico' cable car from the city to the top of Mount Avila. The incredible mountain separates Caracas from the Caribbean Sea, so you can imagine the views from the top were insane. We had some more local food at the top whilst taking in the views. I didnt take a phone or camera for fear of being robbed, and we got some dodgy buses to and from the cable car, as well as being hassled by various locals, and on entry i got charged ten times more for being a white European. So, I was constantly reminded of where I was...
    After the mountain we walked down the main commercial boulevard and through the city centre as the sun set. This was an experience in itself. The place was very busy and packed with people, desperate beggars, street sellers, and the corrupted police. I wouldn't feel safe if I was alone. It was around 7pm, and Sergio was explaining how everyone was rushing to get home, shops were closing, and the city disappears before it goes dark. After 7.30, you see no-one on the streets, the thriving city becomes a ghost town, thanks to its dreadful reputation at night. However, I can understand why; we saw an angry driver pull out a gun and point it down the street shouting in road rage, and this was earlier in broad daylight!
    Anyway, we arrived safely back at Joel's place after an amazing day together, and started the Friday night drinking before heading to Andrews house once again for a bit of a party. Rum, music, and Chinese takeaway saw us into the early hours and I had a great last night in Caracas.
    Read more

  • Day 6

    Week 1 - Caracas, the crazy capital...

    March 11, 2017 in Venezuela ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Car Horns and tyre screeches, gunshots and police sirens. The sound of the concrete jungle that is the capital of a country in despair. A normal day in 2017 Caracas is chaotic. With the highest inflation rate of any country ever, Venezuelas economy looks beyond saving, which hits the capital hard. The middle class have left, businesses gone bankrupt, people are hungry and what little money they have is worthless. About 5 years ago the rare 100-Bolivar banknote was worth $20. 2 years ago it was worth 50¢. Now so common, it makes good toilet paper, with a value of 2¢. Most of the problems I have seen are because of this horrific situation, and it seems people are desperate, unhappy and just trying to survive. Large favellas called 'barrios' surround the city and are some of the most dangerous places in the world. I've seen these places from the safety of an unlicensed, 50 year-old broken fully-packed vehicle called a public bus. I've seen people routing through bins,  police forcing bribes, and even a gun pulled out of a car window in road-rage!

    However, if you see past the reality of these problems, you experience a city with charm, natural beauty, and some really cool people! Groups of brightly coloured Macaws, vultures, and tropical birds fly around the city and are very vocal. Towering palms, mango trees and thick vegetation line the streets, and in the local park there are iguanas, sloths and other wildlife. Caracas is in a beautuful valley, and separated from the Caribbean coast by the impressive coastal mountains and El Avila national park. I took a long cable car ride to the top of the Avila mountain with Sergio, a cool local Venezuelan who, like most people, is struggling to live and wants to leave the country. The views on both sides from a sunny 9,000ft were incredible, with the bright-blue carribean sea to the north, and the expansive  Caracas to the south. Being with Sergio for a couple of days was very eye-opening; I learnt a lot about the city, country, and the spanish language, but was constantly reminded of the problems Venezuelans face.

    Since arriving in Caracas, I have stayed with Joel, whos been in the city for 2 years, and is probably the coolest guy I've ever met. He works at the international school and has introduced me to so many amazing people; friends, colleagues and his family! It's been great meeting so many people, we've had some incredible food and a couple of great nights out. I'm very grateful to Joel for hosting and giving me all the help, and it's thanks to him for my amazing Caracas experience.

    I left England 6 days ago, and have had a great first week of travel. Thank you Vincent for hosting me in Lisbon, and thanks to Joel and all his friends in Caracas. I'll be back! Now it's time for a long overnight journey to East Venezuela, where the Orinoco Delta awaits...
    Read more

  • Day 7

    A long journey to the jungle delta...

    March 12, 2017 in Venezuela ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today I got lucky. I'm genuinely surprised to have arrived at the Orinoco Delta camp with no major problems or hassle. Of course, that doesn't mean that the journey was pleasant, fast or safe.
    I started with a premature taxi ride to the Caracas Bus terminal. The driver says stay inside, it is not safe when it goes dark. My first problem is that there are no buses to Tucupita today (my destination town), so I buy a ticket for Maturin, a city close-by. My second problem is I'm very early, I have nearly 3 hours to wait in a scary run-down depot with everyone staring at you knowing you're a foreigner. Truth be told, the time passed and I got on the bus (realtively) easily after talking with a few locals. The bus set off (an hour late) and was quite empty, so i got some alright sleep.

     My third problem came when we pulled into some bandit-looking town and the driver instructs everyone to get off. We are about halfway to Maturin, and have to board another bus waiting for us. This one is old, disgusting and packed. We get on and fill every available seat with none to spare. Hot and cramped we set off with a bang and a grind. The drivers all over the place, probably drunk, and the sounds of the bus aren't comforting...

    It's 2am and dark. I have a good view out of the front window, and I see the distant sky glowing orange. As we get nearer, the sky becomes brighter. Then, over the horizon appears several balls of fire. We drive through endless oil refineries, with tall stacks that emit enormous bright flames 200ft above the ground. On all sides of the bus the sky is alight as though it were sunrise, from the countless columns of burning fire. Venezuela sits on the worlds largest natural oil reserve, and these refineries go on for hours...
    I eventually arrive at Maturin in an equally run-down depot and ask about catching a bus to Tucupita. I get very lucky, as one is just about to leave. The woman explained that if I were a few minutes later, I would have waited 24 hours for the next one...

    This bus is comfortable and I sleep into the early hours before arriving at Tucupita 8am. What a shit-hole, but I strike lucky again meeting Carlos, a man here to pick up his wife, and who actually speaks a little English. I gratefully take a ride with them to the river, where I will aim to hitch a boat-ride into the delta. However, he tells me my destination is very far and there are very few boats on a Sunday...

    On arriving at the river there are many locals gathered and police everywhere. We see the dead body of a national guard laid on the ground, and people mourning. The body is bagged, taken away in a van, and people leave. Carlos leaves too and I explain my gratitude for his help, as I am now left alone on the shore thinking what the fuck just happened!?
    I strike luck a third time. Within 5 minutes of the commotion, 4 guys lower a boat into the water, and I approach to ask about getting to the delta camp. After some awkward exchanges of broken Spanish, I realise they are heading to a settlement close to my camp, and after offering a generous amount of money, I climb on-board and we speed off down the wide open river. This boat looks shit, but my God is it fast!

    Problem number 4 came when the oversized engine blows up at full speed. Well, that's what it sounded like as I was thrown forward off the bench and the boat came to an abrupt stop. The guys didn't react much, and after pulling off the engine cover and sticking their hands in, the engine was started up again in minutes. It was music to my ears. I smiled and gave the thumbs up as a wave of relief hit me. It didn't last long though, as the same thing happened a few minutes later.

    After 2 hours, 3 stops, and 6 more 'break-downs', Venezuelas finest speed-garbage-can slowed down and approached the camp at 1pm. By some miracle, I had arrived safely (and with all my stuff) at my home for the next month in the heart of the Orinoco Delta. And this place is jungle paradise....
    Read more

  • Day 8

    Arrival at the Orinoco Delta Lodge...

    March 13, 2017 in Venezuela ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    I have arrived in the Orinoco Jungle, at my home for the next 4 weeks, and it deserves an introduction...

    La naturaleza vive aqui, or 'Nature Lives here' is the moto for this place. The phrase is painted in 21 different languages at the entrance to the lodge, and rightly so. The Orinoco is a wild jungle; a vast network of waterways teaming with wildlife. In the skies I've seen Macaws, Toucan, Pelican, Eagles, and in the trees howler monkeys, bats, and tropical birds. I've seen giant lizards, toads the size of your head, butterflies bigger than birds and a variety of bizarre insects. The fauna is equally impressive with towering palms, banana trees, many colourful flowers, and in the water are plentiful fish, piranha, crab, and crocodile. I really am in the wild, and the sounds of the jungle remind me so; by day the incredible and diverse chorus of tropical birds, by night the constant chatter of a million cricket-like insects. Although very much loud and alive, this riverside paradise is the definition of tranquility.

    Upon arriving at the 'lodge' I was very impressed, not only by the beauty, but the size of this place. There is an enormous open central lodge looking over the river with decking above the water. Pathways extend from both sides giving access to the 40+ guest-cabins and other lodges that all face the river. Everything has been built by hand mostly with wood from the jungle, bamboo interiors, palms for roofing, and all surrounded by tall trees, thick vegetation, and swamp. The lodge layout is perfect; a well-established and harmonious part of the jungle.

    The transformation of the delta at dawn is incredible. I've woken up before sunrise a few times already to sit out on the river and absorb the tranquility. Before sunrise, the insects quieten, and the birds are still silent. The undisturbed water is smooth like silk, a mirror for the sky, and it is the only time when all is calm. The sky warms through shades of pink and orange, high wispy clouds become colourful, and the scene is reflected perfectly by the water. It gets brighter, the sun is risen, but it takes 30 minutes to appear above the high jungle canopy on the other side of the river. When it does, the lodge and jungle burst into flames of colour and character, and the orchestra of a million tropical birds fill your ears. A breeze picks up, the water is now rippled as if flowing, and the sounds and sights of the delta are transformed in minutes.

    The transformation of day to night is not as spectacular. I'm sure the sunsets here would be insane but the lodge faces East and the jungle behind blocks any view of the last hour of sunlight. Nevertheless, there's something special about dusk. As it darkens, the oil lamps lit, and the lodge lights switched on, there is a calmness again about the jungle. The water becomes still once more, and reflects what little light is left in the sky, as the army of relentless mosquitos emerge after dusk. On one occasion I witnessed a bright full moon rise above the palm trees just after sunset. However, most nights are clear, so when its dark the sky is spectacular. This place is remote, so the milky way shines bright (alongside fireflies) to the earie night noise of chirping insects.
    Read more

  • Day 14

    Week 2 - Life as a lodge volunteer

    March 19, 2017 in Venezuela ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    My first week in the Jungle of the Orinoco Delta (Please read my blog; 'An introduction to the Orinoco' before this)

    My first week at the Lodge has been a real mixture of highs and lows, hard work and relaxation, adventure and confinity, conversation and silence. However, it has been an incredible experience so far and I'm very happy to be here.
    Throughout the week there have been at least 7 of us working here, a few others have come and gone on occassion. They're all Venezuelan and seem nice, but are generally untalkative, and speak absolutely no English, with the exception of Johanna - the woman in charge. Immediately I found it difficult to communicate as my Spanish is poor, and when there is conversation I cannot understand any of it. The language here is spoken lazily, without proper pronunciation and at incredible speed! I have managed to have the odd short chat in broken Spanish, but rely on body language and basic phrases, something very familiar from Tanzania.. Anyway I can only really talk to Johanna in English, and mostly sit and smile in silence at meal times. This should be good for improving my Spanish, but only time will tell. The situation improved slightly on Wedneday with the arrival of Anthony, the creator and owner of the lodge. Originally from Palestine, Anthony is an American citizen who discovered the Orinoco Delta when backpacking Venezuela 25 years ago. He had the vision to create this place, and has built up the lodge from just a few initial cabins to the size of a village today. He's cool and speaks perfect English so we get on.

    The typical day here starts at 6.30am when the rising sun illuminates my cabin and the chorus of birds begin like the perfect morning alarm. Breakfast is around 7am, after which everyone gets to work doing various things around the lodge. Although the lodge could probably cater for 100 people, there have been no guests this week so not much to do as a volunteer. My typical tasks have been cleaning, cleaning, and more cleaning. Whether it be surfaces, furniture, floor or kitchenware, I've learnt that cleaning is a soul-destroying job that I will not be doing in the future. It's been difficult at times, as my willingness to help and asking for more jobs have been met with 'oh, can you please clean the...' *Eurgh!* Thankfully there are other less monotonous tasks like watering plants, feeding the Parrots, washing the dogs, and answering the phone. The others are busy with maintainence, gardening, fixing up boat engines and all sorts, but by midday everyone gathers for lunch and then the afternoon is a bit more relaxed for me.

    Since Anthonys arrival I've been able to play music through the bars speakers, making work more enjoyable, and he has taken a keen interest in my photography skills. One night I showed him some of my best shots from around the lodge and he was really impressed. We talked about his website and social media, and he is now asking me for photos inside guest-cabins and all sorts that he can use for attracting more guests. After telling him about my degree in design, he also wants me to photoshop edit the best photos at some point, and add logos etc. for posting online. Having a little side-project on the go is nice, especially when you're passionate about photography! Anyway, life as a volunteer is pretty easy and the incredible setting makes up for the boring tasks.

    This week there have been 2 stand-out days for me; non-suprisingly two boat trips out of the lodge. The first was a routine afternoon job to go to the nearest town of Boca with Callo and get weekly supplies. It was the first time I was able to enjoy the rivers, and sat on a comfortable boat with sunshine and a breeze in my face, it felt good. The boat was fast, but we still travelled 45 minutes to get to Boca, showing just how deep in the Jungle the lodge really is. We bought gasoline and supplies, filled 4 enormous Jerry cans with drinking water, and I went to a small 'shop' to buy a few bits. We then waited for Anthony, who arrived with his wife in a jeep full of supplies, which me and Callo loaded onto the boat before heading back to the lodge. The ride back through the open delta in the late afternoon sun was amazing, and I had a grin the whole way.

    The best day for me however was Friday, when a trip to get wood for building became a crazy day-long jungle adventure. This was the highlight of my trip to Venezuela so far, and deserves a separate blog post - please read it!

    However mind-numbing some of the work here may be, it's experiences like these that make being here so worthwhile. In the afternoons I have started going on solo Kayaking adventures too, and are aiming to do so every day to experience as much of this place as possible. To sum up my first week in the Orinoco Delta, I've worked hard, but for the rewards of this wild yet tranquil place, it's been worth it.
    Read more