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Europe 2022 - 2023
  • David Du Buron
  • EDuBu
  • David Du Buron
  • EDuBu

Europe 2022 - 2023

A 432-day adventure by David & EDuBu Read more
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  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    1View from atop Veriga Tower in Kamerlengo Castle
    Kamerlengo CastleInside Kamerlengo CastleAnother view from atop Veriga Tower1Another view from atop Veriga TowerQuick History of TrogirTrogir City Loggia3Spomenik braniteljimaPorte Du NordSt. Lawrence's CathedralDoor to St. Lawrence's CathedralCrkva sv. Ivan KrstiteljView of old town Trogir from Čiovo island

    Trogir Croatia

    September 18, 2022 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    As we continue to head south down the adriatic coast we make our was to Trogir. It's a cute port town on the dalmatian coast known for its old town sitting on a separate island with connection to the mainland and another larger island. It boasts a tiny castle as well as a few older church's and monestaries. The old town itself was very cute with winding alleyways and plenty of restaurant and shops along with a daily market on the mainland.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
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    Bol, Brac Island Croatia

    September 23, 2022 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    On Friday we took a day trip via ferry to our of the islands on the coast; Brac Island. They have the famous Zlatni rat beach with a beautiful promenade lined with pine trees. We spent the day checking out the quaint town of Bol and snorkeling at the beach.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Entrance to Diocesan's Palace
    The Vestibule of Diocesan's PalaceArtists representation of The Vestibule of Diocesan's Palace in its original form2Diocletian's Cellars still contains many shops as it maybe did for centuries beforeThe Baptistry / Temple of JupiterInside the Baptistry and a statue of Saint John the Baptist in backA sphinx, apparently the oldest thing here as it was taken from Egypt.A view from besides Saint Domnius CathedralSaint Domnius Bell Tower and Cathedral2Ruins of the Vomitorium with Saint Domnius Bell Tower in the background1A westerly view of Saint Domnius Bell TowerA northerly view of Saint Domnius Bell TowerA easterly view of Saint Domnius Bell Tower3The view from an archway in Saint Domnius Bell Tower6Short video of scenes around Saint DomniusInside Saint Domnius CathedralInside Saint Domnius CathedralPeople's Piazza with a view of Church of Our Lady of the bell tower in the backgroundThe Venetian Tower2Statue of Gregory of Nin1Ruins of Benedictine monastery of St. Euphemia

    Split, Croatia

    September 25, 2022 in Croatia ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    We've spent five days in Split which is the largest city with the exception of the capital Zagreb. It's certainly the largest city on the coast. It's a beautiful one at that, featuring a large old town with the most notable landmark being Diocletians palace built in 350. The original palace (built for the Roman emperor Diocletian) encompasses about half of Splits old town. We saw the Palace, Bapistry (originally a Temple of Jupiter), Saint Domnius Cathedral. We also climbed the Saint Domnius Bell Tower to see beautiful views of the city.

    If you're into Game of Thrones, a few key scenes were shot in the old town here. Diocletians palace was used as a stand in for the Daenerys Targaryen liberated city of Meereen. The Diocletian's Cellars were used as the caves where Daenerys kept her dragons.

    Split was originally founded as a Greek colony and later brand the capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia. From there it was owned by the Byzantines, Venice, and Croatia. It was fought over by the Hungarian Empire, but apparently never conquered.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    One of the many tower fortifications around the island
    The Land Gate aka Kopnena Vrata or Vrata od Grada2Town walls, restaurant area, and the mainland of Croatia.Croatian mainland as seen from Korcula. So close, it seems swimable.The plaza "Trg kralja Tomislava" just outside the Land Gate.1St. Michael's Church3View of more of the island of Kocula from Old townOld Town alleywaySt. Peter's ChurchSt. Peter's Church appears to be a store showcasing wood carvings of a local artist now.2Park ForetićChurch of St. JustinOld Town LoggiaMain road leading up to St. Mark's CathedralKorcula Town MuseumSt. Mark's CathedralChapel inside St. Mark's CathedralOld Town Ancient stairs2Pano of Mainland CroatiaMarco Polo House7Walk from the main port, up the Land Gate to St. Mark's Cathedral

    Korcula, Croatia

    September 26, 2022 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Korcula was a pleasant surprise. What was supposed to be a week of solid rain had turned into only partially cloudy and occasional rain.

    Korcula Town is most known for being the birthplace of Marco Polo. It's old town seems to be not quite as old as it appears, the stair case and "Land Gate" leading up to the rest of old town was built in the 15th century. Old Town is encircled by St. Mark's Cathedral in the center and has a number of towers along the sides. One of which now appears to be a cocktail bar.

    The history of Korcula Town and Korcula island matches many of its mainland counterparts. First settled by semi-nomadic Illyrian tribes, before being overtaken by the Greeks. According to their legends the first Greek to found a settlement here was the Trojan hero Aeneas or his friend Antenor.

    The island then became part of the Roman province of Illyricum after the Illyrian Wars which happened about 220 BC. From there it came under Byzantine rule in the 6th century, fell to "Slavic invasions" in the 7th, came under Venetian control in 998 as part of the Principality of Pagania.

    From there, it seems their rule got a bit fluid. In the 13th century, it loosely governed by the Hungarian Empire and the Republic of Genoa (that one is new). It then seemed to flip flop between Venetian and Hungarian rule. In 1806 the French conquered the island. Then the British in 1813 who then gave it back to the Austrian Empire as a result of the Congress of Vienna. In 1815 ( that's a tough two decades).

    Their history becomes a bit more familiar after that. It became part of Yugoslavia after WWI. Then had German Nazi rule during WWII becoming Yugoslavia again after WWII. After the wars of the 90s it became part of Croatia where it rests today.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Kings Landing
    Pile gate, used in seasons 2 and 3The Jesuit Steps. The site of Cersei Lannister's Walk of Shame.Shame! Shame!Rectors Palace: Daenerys visits the Spice King to request ships to carry her army across the sea1Tyrion Lannister sightingDominikanski samosas, protest speech against the Lanisters delivered hereDominikanski samostanCommon marketplace featured across many seasonsST DOMINIKA STREET Scene from Mothers Mercy episodeWalls of Kings Landing3Pile Harbour. Used as the sea entrance of King's Landing

    Game of Thrones - Dubrovnik, Croatia

    October 1, 2022 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Kings Landing in the Game of Thrones was filmed in Dubrovnik. Originally season 1 was filmed in Malta but the government there did not like the film crew so they moved the set to Dubrovnik starting in season 2. You may recognize some of these images of Dubrovnik old town from the HBO TV series.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    2Dubrovnik Old Town as seen from Lovrijenac Fortress
    St. Blaise's Church in the back left and the Rector's Palace on the right1Lovrijenac Fortress in the background1Dave with Tvrđava Minčeta Fortress in the backgroundAlleyway ending at St. Nicholas ChurchOnofrio's Fountain, Church of St. Salvation (left)St. Blaise's Church and the The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in backSerbian Ortodox Church of the Holy AnnunciationChurch of St. Ignatius1Dubrovnik old town as seen from Tvrđava Minčeta Fortress2The old port on the east side of old townDubrovnik new town1Ronald Brown Memorial House museumSt. Blaise's ChurchDubrovnik sea cliffsDubrovnik Old Town Walk

    Dubrovnik, Croatia

    October 3, 2022 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The inevitable charm and beauty of today’s Dubrovnik lies in its long and rich history. Over the many centuries of its existence, Dubrovnik has established itself as an independent, powerful and influential city. Its specific geographic position helped in the development of successful merchandising and maritime tradition. Dubrovnik has always been valued as a safe harbour, shielded by the group of islands rising in front of it, but also being intersection of the important maritime and trading routes.

    It is believed that Dubrovnik was founded in the 7th century when Croatian tribes expanded to the area in attempt to hide from the barbarians. They formed a number of small settlements that gradually, over the centuries, merged together, forming a single city shielded by the today famous ramparts.

    Dubrovnik soon established itself as a prosperous trading and maritime center at the Adriatic and Mediterranean Sea. Despite turbulent historical circumstances, Dubrovnik fought to preserve its trading autonomy and valued independence in dark medieval times, even under the Venetian reign.

    The era of true prosperity of Dubrovnik begins with the foundation of the Republic of Ragusa or the Dubrovnik Republic in the 15th century. It was an independent aristocratic republic, with its own authorities (the Rector and the counsellors), currency and flag with an image of St. Blaise, the city patron. The Republic of Ragusa was the first European country to abolish slavery. The age of prosperity and well-being reached its culmination in the 16th century with the development of the maritime trade and the local merchant navy, placing Dubrovnik among the most valued trading contractors in the world. The era of financial security and development helped in the formation of a specific lifestyle in the city. A circle of humanists supported the blooming creativity resulting in magnificent artistic achievements in architecture, urbanism, poetry, literature and science. Some of the most famous buildings from that period include the Church of St. Blaise, The Dubrovnik Cathedral and  the Rector’s Palace. However, the era of prosperity was replaced with the deep political and economical crisis in the 17th century culminating with the great earthquake in the 1667, which almost destroyed the city. Balancing between the wars against the Turkish Empire and the Venetians and struggling with the ongoing crisis, the Dubrovnik Republic ceased to exist in the 18th century as a result of Napoleon’s decision. It became a part of the Dalmatia, a region at the south of the Croatian coastline, sharing its political and historical destiny to the present day.

    In the late 20th century, Croatia declared its independence followed by the Serbian aggression on Croatian territory. Dubrovnik was among the first cities to be attacked in 1991, suffering brutal destruction and significant losses. Most of the destroyed parts of the city are today restored, preserving the priceless beauty of Dubrovnik and once again establishing it as one of the most beloved Croatian summer destinations. It is now made more popular from HBOs Game of Throwns TV series which used old town dubrovnik as the filming location for Kings Landing.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Infamous snipers tower during the war

    Bosnian War and Mostar, BiH

    October 5, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    During our time in Bosnia, we had the pleasure of taking an excellent walking tour with 47 year resident who fought in defense of Mostar during the Bosnian War (see Sheva Walking Tour below). We also attended the "Museum Of War And Genocide Victims" in Mostar. In addition to the above I've also used the below linked article and YouTube video to supplement my knowledge. In this post, we will offer pictures and accounts of what we've learned.

    https://youtu.be/hHzmzuuGnhU
    https://www.culturalsurvival.org/publications/c…

    Sheva Walking Tour - Mostar
    https://www.mostarfreewalkingtours.com/

    To truly understand the conflict we need to go back to the WWII. I will try to do so quickly. Yugoslavia existed prior to the war, but Nazi Germany was able to institute a puppet government lead by the Croatian Ustaše Fascist government. The Ustaše performed genocide and ethnic cleansing on Serb Orthodox and Jewish in Yugoslavia. It has also been stated that the Serbs also did ethnic cleansing against Croats and Muslims during this time. This government was eventually overthrown by Slav freedom fighting "Partisans" led by Josip Broz Tito. After the war, Yugoslavia was reestablished and Tito was made "President for life." He held the country together with a message of Slav Brotherhood until his death in 1980. Despite the years of prosperity that Yugoslavia enjoyed, the sins of WWII were not forgotten.

    After Tito's death, economic troubles ensued and local elections of the republics of Yugoslavia started to vote for independence centered along Ethnic lines. First with Slovenia, and then Macedonia. Serbs gained power of the previous Yugoslavia government and then Croatia voted for independence along it's traditional borders. Serbia attempted to hold Yugoslavia together and attacked Croatia. There was also fear of more ethnic cleansing of Croatian Serbs.

    At this point, Bosnia and Herzegovina was a previously existing republic inside of Yugoslavia, but unlike the other republics, was not ethnically defined. The territory was largely half Croat, and half Serb, but also contained a strong Bosnian Muslim population (called the Bosniacs). Please see the below map for a better picture.

    https://qr.ae/pvejvX

    Croatia and Serbia seemed to have gone into a land grab mode and attempted to secure land of Bosnia and Herzegovina as part of their new nations. Attempts were made to divide BiH (the preferred abbreviation as "i" is Bosnian for "and") peacefully. However, because Bosniacs were not part of ethnically part of Croatia or Serbia this made things difficult. Both Serbia and Croatia invaded and pushed to create pure ethnic territory. BiH was caught in the middle.

    Mostar was of military significance, because of it's place on the Neretva river and the well known "Big Bridge" (today known as the "Old Bridge"). Both sides pushed in from the East and West and local Croat and Bosniac force attempted to defend the city and civilians. Most took shelter in the basements of large apartment buildings. Most notably a large one on Bulevar Street along the West bank. Croatian snipers shot at any targets that attempted to cross the street. Even today large sections of the building are still littered with bullet holes.

    During the conflict the historic old Mostar bridge was destroyed by Serb forces looking to solidify their control over the east bank. The bridge was then rebuilt in 2004 with UNESCO assistance. It was done so with pains taking process to use the same processes of the original bridge.

    Today Mostar is beautiful, but still contains ruins of the war. Some building have still not been restored or rebuilt. They stand as constant reminders of the atrocities and reflects the tensions that still exist today. Even now, Serbs, Croats and Bosniacs can attend the same schools, but are taught different History classes from their peers.

    There is a lot I'm leaving out there. The culturalsurvival.org article I linked above seems to be very complete and a good source.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Destroyed gravestonesEntrance to the Monument

    Partisan Monument, Mostar, BiH

    October 6, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    This was an unexpected sight for us today. Inside of Mostar, there is a Monument to the fallen freedom fighters of Tito's Partisan army who retook Yugoslavia from Fascists without help from Allied powers. Last July, that monument was vandalized. More than 600 gravestones were destroyed. In the past, this monument was the sight of graffiti of swastikas being painted on the outside gates (I heard about 2 years ago was the most recent).

    While we were there, a local man was paying his respects. We started talking, and he said he was taking his grandfather and neighbor's headstones home so they could no longer be vandalized. As near as I can figure, many others have done the same. There were many chips of headstones, but clearly not the remnants of 600.

    We helped him carry his neighbor's headstone to the entrance, where he waited for a taxi. This was a bit of a shocking way to start our last full day in Mostar. Very sad.

    The Wikipedia page has a good photo of how the Monument used to look.

    https://hr.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partizansko_gro…    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Old Mostar Bridge, reconstructed in 2004
    Old Mostar BridgeOld BazaarNeretva RiverOld BazaarKoski Mehmed Pasha MosqueKarađoz Beg Mosque - This was Emily and David's FIRST time in a Mosque!1Small Bridge at night. This bridge was used as a trial run for the "Old Bridge."Vendor selling pomegranate juice from their local farm. Gave me kind of a dry mouth feel.Mortar River's Club. They ensure safety of bridge diversOld Mostar and the bridge1Bazaar coppersmith shop2A look at 3 types of stone floor in old town. Wear good shoes!More stone floorsSerbian Orthodox ChurchNeretva River and the jumping platform. Diver's Club uses this to test potential bridge divers.Anti-corruption Mural / Antikorupcijski Mural1We actually got to see a bridge jump. We were told the water was about 5 meters deep

    Mostar, BiH (Bosnia and Herzegovina)

    October 6, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Mostar is the crown jewel of BiH, and what many consider the prettiest city. It was once the capital of Herzegovina before joining merged with Bosnia post Yugoslavia breakup. Although tensions between ethnic groups and remnants of the war exist today, Mostar is very much on a comeback swing when it comes to tourism. Today its a very welcoming city, with friendly people and a beautiful old town. The old bridge is Mostars pride and is a beautiful sight to see. In warm weather the local men jump from the bridge after gathering enough money from the crowd. Together with local copper smith's (five families still exist in the city), a bustling Bazar selling jewelry, sobering museums, cashmere scarfs, and Mostar silk it is truly a hidden jem worth visiting.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
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    Central Bosnia, BiH

    October 7, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Today we made the journey by bus from Mostar to Sarajevo BiH. These are some of our photos on the 3 hour ride past Blidinje National Park to our northwest, through central BiH along the Neretva river and Tresanica river headed east to the nation's capitol.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Fountain on Ottoman side of town
    1Rugs for sale1551 building first used for selling silkLatin Bridge and pink museum where Franz Ferdinand was shotOld Bazar and mosqueBathing fountain outside of Gazi Husrev-beg MosqueSpot on the wall is where assassination occurred of Franz Ferdinand and wife sofia in carSt Marys Orthodox Cathedral2Streets of Ottoman eastern half of city. Full of shops, merchants, tea and coffee housesPark by side of the river2On top of yellow bastion, old wall reminents with beautiful view of Sarajevo enjoyed by allOrthodox churchKovaci cemeteryCity hall2View from yellow bastionOttoman street by old bazarOttoman architecture and libraryMore scenes from old bazar on Ottoman sideExample of Austro-Hungarian empire style buildings3

    Sarajevo, BiH (Bosnia and Herzegovina)

    October 8, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina and a prominent center of culture in the Balkans. Because of its long history of religious and cultural diversity, Sarajevo is sometimes called the "Jerusalem of Europe"or "Jerusalem of the Balkans". It is one of a few major European cities to have a mosque, Catholic church, Eastern Orthodox church, and synagogue in the same neighborhood.

    The city arose in the 15th century as an Ottoman stronghold, when the latter empire extended into south eastern Europe. Sarajevo suffered a series of attacks from the invading AustroHungarian empire which took a foothold in the city in the 1800s. In 1885, it was the first city in Europe and the second city in the world to have a full-time electric tram network running through the city, following San Francisco, California. In 1914, it was the site of the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand by a local Young Bosnia activist Gavrilo Princip, a murder that sparked World War I. This resulted in the end of Austro-Hungarian rule in Bosnia and the creation of the multicultural Kingdom of Yugoslavia in the Balkan region.

    Later, after World War II, the area came under control of the communist Socialist Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina as nationalism became more predominant in the 80s and 90s.

    In 1984 the socialist republic hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics, which marked a prosperous era for the city. However, after the start of the Yugoslav Wars, the city suffered the longest siege of a capital city in the history of modern warfare, for a total of 1,425 days, from April 1992 to February 1996. This was during the Bosnian War and the breakup of Yugoslavia, under nationalist ethnic passions that tore families apart and resulted in genocide and massacres.
    With continued post-war reconstruction in the aftermath, Sarajevo is the fastest growing city in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

    This has been such a wonderfu and unique l city to explore. They have a cultural meeting line that runs through the city streets separating the AustroHungarian side of the city from the Ottoman. There is a very stark contrast between the large multistory ornate buildings from the AustroHungarian empire compared to the more primitive 1 story Ottoman huts/homes on the east side of the city. Sprinkled in are mosques, orthodox and catholic church's as well as Jewish synagougs. It's truly a melting pot here of cultures religions and ethnicities.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Faces of those missing from SrebenicaMothers wait to claim loved ones remains identified as having been armed with explosivesCaskets of 599 men from Srebrenica and 1 womanA mother giving blood as a DNA sample to help find her family

    Srebrenica massacre, Sarajevo, BiH

    October 8, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today, David and Emily toured the "Gallery 11/07/95" in Sarajevo. A photography gallery showing pictures of victims of Genocide at Srebrenica on 11/07/95 (July 11th for Americans). This is a tough subject, but terribly significant to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Mostar museums also dedicated exhibits to this event and the western world shares responsibility. It feels important that we mention this event as well.

    During the war in Bosnia in the early 90s, the UN did not want to get involved, but did eventually declare the eastern city of Srebrenica (right near Serbia) a safe zone. The city was quickly flooded with war refuges and dealt with water and food supply issues. Srebrenica quickly became a slum, but those inside were thankful for the opportunity to escape war. A Dutch peacekeeping force was dispatched to protect the city from attackers and used an old Factory at Potočari as their base of operation.

    By July 11th, 20K to 25K refuges were in the general Potočari area. Bosnian Serb forces (aka VRS) began to surround Srebrenica and Dutch forces denied access of sufficient refugees into the Potočari compound. Eventually the Dutch forces proved insufficiently armed and were forced to evacuate. No more UN forces or air support was dispatched to the aide of Srebrenica.

    Male refugees were separated from women and children. From there mass execution of males began. Bodies were buried in multiple mass graves. In some instances, to hide their war crimes, bodies were dug up and moved to secondary graves, and sometimes into even tertiary mass graves.

    Today, through DNA analysis, 6,838 victims have been identified. However, the list of missing persons is currently at 8,372 and DNA analysis continues to this day. In some instances, entire families were wiped out so no DNA analysis can be used to identify bodies. The identities of those families have been lost. Many mothers and widows still believe their men may still be found as a war prisoner, but continued visits from the Bosnian Federal Commission of Missing Persons are usually not met with years of happiness.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    The Old Temple
    Reconstructed Attar Shop that sold herbal remedies.Attar shop plaqueAshkenazi Synagogue1Ashkenazi Synagogue

    Ashkenazi Synagogue and The Old Temple

    October 10, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    In Sarajevo, BiH, there still exists a long Jewish history. That history began (sort of, there was a small Jewish population prior) in 1492 when Jews from Spain were expelled after proclamation from the Catholic Monarchs of Spain, Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon. Those Jews migrated to many places, but many made their way through Italy or by boat to Istanbul and eventually settled in Ottoman controlled Sarajevo.

    The Ottomans allowed freedom for the Jewish community, but were treated as 2nd class citizens like any other non-muslims in the Empire. Shortly after their arrival, The Old Temple was erected in 1581. It suffered significant fire damage twice, but has withstood both Nazi occupation and the Bosnian war. Today it is a Museum of Jews in Bit.

    The Ashkenazi Synagogue was built in 1902 and has also survived Nazi occupation and the Bosnian war. It is significant, not only for its size but a relic it told inside. It contains the Sarajevo Haggadah. A relic assumed to have been written in or near Barcelona in the 14th century and made the journey with the Jewish fleeing of Spain. It is a handwritten, beautifully illustrated telling of the story of exodus and was almost destroyed in Italy in 1609 during the inquisition. Today it is read during a ceremony on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Unfortunately David and Emily could not attend for fear of missing our flight on Tuesday. It is considered a one of a kind and a significant Jewish artifact.

    As previously mentioned in other posts, while there was Nazi occupation during WWII there was also a fascist group called the Ustasa, and made up of, most notably, Croats. In 1941 there were 14,000 and 22,000 Jews in BiH and 12,000 to 14,000 in Sarajevo. 12,000 were victims of Fascism. Today there are only 281 Jews living in BiH as there were also victims of the Bosnian war.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    3Pljeskavica - minced veal and beef (top) and Pileci fileti - Grilled chicken (bottom).
    1Baklava2Fresh Pomegranate Juice from street vendorPomegranate machine that pressed our juice while we watched1Tuna appetizer at the four rooms.1The Four Rooms of Mrs. Safija1The Four Rooms of Mrs. Safija1Hercegovački japrak: grape leaves stuffed with ground Veal and cabbage1Veal gnocchi and pork skewers w potatoe and veggies2Lamb and chicken thigh dishes w/ potato, rice, and tomato1Veal sausage with grilled veggies and bread1Shakshuka - eggs baked in our homemade tomato salsa with herbs & spices, served with Somun bread2Burek (bottom), Grilled vegetables (left), and veal bean soup (top)

    Food of the Balkans (primarily BiH)

    October 10, 2022 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We've had a lot of fabulous dishes here in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Most of them are meat and vegetable based. They have great soups as well as some truly delicious authentic specialities. Here are some photos of meals over the last few weeks.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    The so called water tower1Excavated cannon balls from the fortress grounds1Before and after photos of the reconstruction1The "Water Tower"Flags of the "Water Tower"Catapult replicaZawisza Czarny plaque 1Zawisza Czarny plaque 2Zawisza Czarny plaque 3Gate to the fortress that used to be a highway tunnel. Notice the damage on the archway from buses.

    Golubac Fortress, Golubac Serbia

    October 12, 2022 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Golubac Fortress has had a tumultuous history. Prior to its construction in the 14th century, it was the site of a Roman settlement. During the Middle Ages, it became the object of many battles, especially between the Ottoman Empire and the Kingdom of Hungary. It changed hands repeatedly, passing between Turks, Bulgarians, Hungarians, Serbs, and Austrians, until 1867, when it was turned over to the Serbian Knez, Mihailo Obrenović III. It sits on the Danube River on the Serbian side and has beautiful views of Romania on the other side of the river.

    Until 2019, the fortress was not open to tourists. One of the reasons was that the fortress was used as a highway. Cars used to drive though the main gate and exit on the other side and continue down the west bank of the Danube. Today, there is still visible damage to the top of the main gate where busses and trucks scrapped the top.

    The fortress also has historical significance for Poland, and is frequented by Polish tourists. A polish national hero, Zawisza Czarny, or Zawisza the Black, died at the castle after a failed siege. He died attempting to save the King who was accidentally left behind while fleeing the Fortress to the east bank of the Danube. He returned and saved the King against the Ottoman Turks who held the fortress at that time.

    The fortress has one tower named "The Water Tower" the one with flags on top. This tower was not originally in the water, but a dam was built down stream raising the water level. Thus it was given its name much later.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    1Recreated settlement showing how the trapeziod bases would have been covered1

    Lepenski Vir, Eastern Serbia

    October 12, 2022 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Libesnski Vir is an archeological site in Eastern Serbia that Dave and Emily visited with a tour group from Belgrade. The site was discovered in the 1960 when the Iron Gate I Hydroelectric Power Station was being planned along the Danube River. Surveyors were analyzing the bank of the river and before it got flooded to make an artificial lake.

    During that surveying the archeological site was discovered a previously unknown civilization. The settlements dated back to between 9500 & 7200 BC. That makes it the earliest known European settlement.

    All of the houses in Libesnski Vir have a trapezoid base, which was perplexing to archeologists at first. If you look at mountain across the Danube, there is a migraine with a distinct trapezoid shape. It is now believed they may have worshiped the mountain and modeled their houses after it.

    Today the museum dedicated to Libesnski Vir site is a recreation. The original was flooded when the dam was finished.

    After we visited the Archeological site, We had a lunch feast at a hill top restaurant serving local Serbian food. There were only 5 of us with the tour guide, so we had more than enough food.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Saint Sava TempleDoorway and interior of Saint Sava Temple1Interior of Saint Sava Temple1Video of entering Saint Sava TempleNational Assembly of the Republic of SerbiaBelgrade Fortress1Ružica Church1Inside Ružica Church1Video of entering Ružica ChurchNational Museum and Republic SquareHoly Archangel Michael Orthodox Church1Interior of Holy Archangel Michael Orthodox ChurchEdge of Belgrade FortressDisplay inside the Serbia Military MuseumDisplay inside the Serbia Military Museum1Plaque inside the Serbia Military MuseumSt. Mark Orthodox ChurchInside St. Mark Orthodox Church

    Belgrade, Serbia

    October 16, 2022 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Belgrade is the capital of Serbia and former capital of Yugoslavia. It's also one of the most polluted cities in the world based on air quality and you could certainly tell. Its most significant landmark is the Beogradska Tvrđava, an imposing fortress at the confluence of the Danube and the Sava rivers. The fort is a testament to the city’s strategic importance to the Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, Serbian and Austrian empires, and it's now the site of several museums as well as Kalemegdan, a vast park.

    The city of Belgrade itself was destroyed 44 times throughout the course of its history. Most recently in WWII where half of Belgrade was totally razed. Today its a very fun, younger, and somewhat modern city. It's known for its quaint Bohemian district loaded with cafes, restaurants, and bars in a nature setting. It feels similar to parts of Boston. They have a predominate night club scene with floating clubs situated along the banks of the Sava River. They also have tons of breweries and orthodox cathedrals downtown. It's home to Tito's residence and mausoleum which we toured as its now part of the Yugoslavia museum not far from the city center.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Name of Mary Catholic church
    Petrovaradin Fortress1Petrovaradin Fortress and the Danube RiverSat Na Petrovaradinskoj Tvrdjavi (re: The Clock Tower)1Danube River and an Old Bridge support painted like a Yellow SubmarineNovi SadNovi Sad Synagogue1Novi Sad SynagogueNovi SadReformed Christian Church & mural named "Стамбена зграда"Freedom Square & Name of Mary Catholic church1Name of Mary Catholic churchFreedom Square4Dave at a PubMural (I couldn't find a name for it)1Butternut squash for 10 anyone?1I can't figure out what this is a picture of. :(

    Novi Sad, Serbia

    October 19, 2022 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Novi Sad is the second most populous city of Serbia and located along the Danube river. It's also the capital of the autonomous province of Vojvodina. Vojvodina is lesser known, but has a similar situation to the other autonomous province in Serbia, Kosovo. Both are ethnically segregated from the rest of Serbia. Kosovo being largely Albanian Muslim, and Vojvodina being Hungarian and a little more religiously diverse (Serbia is mainly an Orthodox country). Both autonomous provinces had the same status I the former Yugoslavia, while being part of larger Serbia. While Kosovo has voted for independence, Vojvodina has not taken those steps yet.

    Novi Sad is most well known for the near by Fruška Gora national park. The park is a mountain with 11 monasteries asking the top. It's a popular pilgrimage spot for Orthodox Christians. Unfortunately, we were not able to make the pilgrimage ourselves.

    One of the other main attractions is Petrovaradin Fortress. The fortress was built in the 1600s but excavations have found evidence of habitation in the area of Petrovardadin since 19,000 to 15,000 BC.

    Pictures are coming.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    1Wine cellar
    Left to right: sesame seed honey, linden honey, & meadow honey2A few modern bee hives on premOld wicker basket hives2Types of bees.Old wine production equipment1Wicker bee hives again. If I understood our guide correctly, the church model is a bee hive too.Information about their wine cellar. Yes it was very moldy inside.Wine cellar entrance3Wines from our tastingSremski Karlovci townPalace of the Common FundsSt. Nicholas CathedralInside St. Nicholas CathedralKarlovci Gymnasium... I didn't realize it was a gym? Weird.

    Bee Museum & Sremski Karlovci, Serbia

    October 21, 2022 in Serbia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    In Sremski Karlovci, Serbia, just south of Belgrade, among the Danube River, David and Emily went to a wine and honey tasting. The site also had a Museum dedicated to bee keeping and also the family trade and history of the owners, the Živanović Family and their trade.

    The Živanović Family beekeeping for 155 years continuously through five generations. The tradition started with Professor Jovan Živanović, at about 1865, and is regarded as "the "father of rational beekeeping" in this part of Europe and in these regions." He also taught beekeeping and biology in Vienna.

    At that time, bee keeping was done by creating a wicker basket, and covering it with a mixture of mud and cow dumb (every bee's dream). An example can be seen in the pictures. However, to harvest the honey, the bees had to be killed. Jovan Živanović created the first "modern" hive in this area, where the side could be removed and the bees could be shaken off the hive, saving the bees.

    Not to bury the lead, but the tasting we had here was very interesting. We got to try two native varieties: Prokupac (a grape), and Bermet (a spiced dessert wine). In addition, the honeys were a meadow honey, a sesame seed honey and a linden honey. The tasting had 7 wines, 3 honeys and a guided museum tour by a Živanović and it cost 650 RSD... about $5.50 a person. I feel like all of that could have cost $650 in Napa. Crazy good price. We'd recommend it.

    Quickly, the town itself was very quaint. It features Karlovci Gymnasium, a big fancy yellow building which is the second oldest secondary school in Serbia.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Tsarevets Fortress with Ascension Cathedral high in the background
    Entrance to Rock Hewn Church of Ivanovo. Doorway was a bit short.Plaque @ Rock Hewn Church of IvanovoPlaque @ Rock Hewn Church of Ivanovo1Rock Hewn Church of Ivanovo2Rock Hewn Church of Ivanovo2Rock Hewn Church of IvanovoRock Hewn Church of IvanovoVeliko TarnovoVeliko TarnovoVeliko TarnovoVeliko TarnovoVeliko TarnovoChapel of St. George the Victorious1Tsarevets Fortress1Tsarevets Fortress1Ascension CathedralAscension Cathedral1Tsarevets Fortress

    Northern Bulgaria

    October 25, 2022 in Bulgaria ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    From Bucharest we did a day trip to northern Bulgaria. We visited the Rock Hewn Church of Ivanovo. These churches were carved by Orthodox Monks. There are 5 such historical sites and we only visited one of them.

    We then visited Veliko Tarnovo the capitol of medieval Bulgaria during its second Empire. Of note here is Tsarevets Fortress. A huge defensible position as it is almost completely surrounded by the Yantra river (it's worth looking at it on Google Maps, that river was completely drunk). The fortress is connected to the main town by an old stone bridge.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Bucharest Arch of Triumph
    Twilight BucharestView outside out AirBnB we were over the church Biserica ItalianăDambovita RiverRomanian Athenaeum1Romanian AthenaeumRomanian National Museum of ArtMonument to the Heroes of the Air4Restaurant Caru’ cu bereTeatrul Național BucureștiNational Military ClubUniversity of BucharestPalace of the Deposits and ConsignmentsPalace of the Deposits and Consignments & Caru’ cu bereSaint Demetrius ChurchSaint Demetrius Church1Stavropoleos Monastery Church

    Bucharest, Romania

    October 26, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Bună from Romania!

    Home of Transylvania (more on that in a few days) and Gypsy culture (the proper modern term is Roma or Romani). Bucharest is not a terribly old city. In 1977 an earthquake decimated much of Bucharest, leaving much of their city more modern.

    Romania is an interesting place. The name Romania is derived from a belief that they are descendants of the true Roman Empire. This MIGHT be related to the fact that when the Roman Empire split into east and west, the Eastern Roman Empire (aka the Byzantine Empire) had its capital in nearby modern Istanbul.

    So generally, Romania feels a kinship with Italian culture. The Romanian language is very similar to Italian. For example, Hello is Salute, and goodbye is La Revedere which sounds like Arrivederci.

    It's also notable that despite the affinity for Roman culture, the early inhabitants of Romania were a tribe called the "Dacia." In fact there is a Romanian car manufacturer of that name. They were one of the last tribes conquered by Rome because their fighters gave them a REALLY hard time. The Dacias were a highly sought after mercenary group for that reason. When the Romans did eventually conquer the area, it seems that many Romans migrated to the Romanian region, which further backs up their name as Romania. In fact, Dacians were known for having red hair (Celt ancestry?) and that is not common in modern Romania.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    11

    Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum

    October 26, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum, in Bucharest, Romania, was established in 1936 and "contains 272 authentic peasant farms and houses from all over Romania." (from their Wikipedia page)

    The houses have been originally built as far back as 1765. Many of the houses could not be entered, so we don't have many interior pictures. While the houses were taken from all over Romania, we observed many of the houses seem to come from the Transylvania region.

    It was good to get this perspective of Romania tradition and walk through this open air museum on a nice fall day. Bucharest had a "Peasant Museum", but it was closed for extensive renovations. That was disappointing, but the village museum was a great consolation prize.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Casa Sfatului in the center of The Council Square
    Brașov City HallBrasov old townBrasov old townThe Council SquareFountain in The Council SquareBrasov old town1The Black Church1The Black Church interiorOttoman Rugs inside The Black Church1Virgin Mary Mural2The Black Church organ1Brasov old townBrasov old townBrasov old town

    Brasov, Transylvania, Romania

    November 1, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Brasov is a city in the central Transylvania region about 100 miles north of Bucharest past Ploiesti and Sinaia. With a population of over a quarter million people, it is a busy city with both modern delights and plenty of historic, Old World facets and offers great scenic beauty with the Carpathian Mountains bordering on the south. Human settlement in Brasov Romania dates back to 9500 BCE during the Neolithic Age. Transylvanian Saxons, colonists of German descent, played a major hand in development via invitation from Hungary’s King Geza II. Continuous building and expansion of now-famous area fortifications happened during this period. German colonists who settled the city denied Romanians many rights they had always enjoyed, including religious freedoms and the denial of citizenship which forced them to close local businesses. In the 17th century and again in the 19th century a strong campaign for cultural, national, and political rights went viral with the support of thousands of Romanians living abroad. Brasov was delivered back to the Romanians in 1918 when a large majority of Germans were deported to Russia. Brasov’s population has always included a strong ethnic Hungarian minority along with a small percentage of Jewish residents.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    2Peleș Castle exterior
    Peleș Castle exteriorPeleș Castle exterior11Main entry wayKing Carol's Study1The Armoury Halls3The Old Music Room5The Dining Room - not too shabby1The Princely Apartment2The Guest Library1Apartment for Romanian poet and playwright Vasile Alecsandri1Romanian Queen Elizabeth's painting room3The Turkish Hall & Smoking room3The Royal Apartment and also where King Carol I died.

    Peleș Castle, Transylvania, Romania

    November 2, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Peleș Castle was the Royal summer residence of the Romanian Monarchy. The castle began construction in 1873 and it was decided that construction could not be completed as long as the King, Carol I, was alive. New wings as extensions were added until the King's death in 1914. At which point the construction halted, leaving side portions of the castle unfinished. This resulted in only side blank wall panels where paintings were planned.

    When the Communist Regime took over Romania, the monarchy was asked to leave. When Romania switched over to a democracy, the monarchy was invited to return, but upon their death, no new monarchy has been crowned. Today, Romania has 2 princesses, who still own Peleș Castle. While, Romania collects ticket sales and performs maintenance, the family is paid a sizable yearly rent on the castle.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    1Bran Castle
    Inner courtyardBran CastleQueen's roomHunting dagger display1Table with lame Elon Musk Halloween decorations2Emily looking for DraculaBran Castle Courtyard from Balcony2View of ruins of external wall from Bran CastleCrown Jewel replicas4Royal dining roomKingly outfitsVlad the Impaler family treeVlad the Impaler historyCourtyard again

    Bran (Dracula's) Castle, Romania

    November 2, 2022 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Bran Castle was built starting in 1377 as a defensible position between the Romania regions of Transylvania and Wallachia to the south. There was fear of Ottoman invasion through much of Romania at that time. Thus most of the true history of this castle was of a military castle, although the Monarchy well built Peleş Castle did spend at least one recorded night here.

    In 1987, Bram Stoker, an Irishman, wrote Dracula based on some research he did on Vlad the Implaler. He described a castle between Transylvania and Wallachia so everyone assumed he wrote about Bran Castle, but it does not match the description in his book. There is also no evidence, Stoker even knew the castle existed. Bram Stoker, also never visited any part of Romania. Also, Vlad the Impaler never set foot in Bran Castle.

    We were lucky to have been at the castle on Nov 2nd, two days after Elon Musk, had reportedly rented out the castle for a Halloween party. The castle still had some cheap Halloween decorations inside (guy looks like he went to iParty). Elon also reportedly never showed up to his own party that night.    Read more

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