• Beth Vogelzang
toukok. – kesäk. 2019

The Ancient History Tour

A trip to Egypt, Greece, Italy, Crete, Malta and Turkey. Lue lisää
  • Chasing Volcanoes!

    25. toukokuuta 2019, Italia ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    This afternoon, we had a bit of a hike up mountains, which proved more difficult than it should have...our GPS decided to ditch the fast strand as, and take us on tiny back roads...anyone who follows us regularly know this seems to be a bit of a habit! Anyway, by late afternoon, we found ourselves at the base of Mount Etna, but unfortunately, our diversions meant it was too late to head up on the cable car. Possibly just as well, as it remains snow-capped, and it was cloud bound.

    It is a very interesting area though, as there are lava fields surrounding the place! We spent a little while here, walking through the volcanic rock, that crunched underfoot. Etna is a very active volcano, with the last eruption in February, followed by an 4.9 earthquake. There was rain today, and all the cars were covered in dirt, likely as a result of dirt spewed by steam from the volcano.

    Leaving Etna, we had a quick 50km drive to Messina - we figured we had better look at the home of the Gelato, but sadly we were disappointed. This is a very large city, a port, and nothing quaint about it. Couldn’t even find the Nirvana of gelato here...haha.

    Across the straits, we could see Calabria, on the toe of Italy’s boot. Another big, but famous city.

    We then headed back towards Taormina. This is a hill-top town, with a Greco-Roman theatre that is still in use. Our hotel is below the cliff set on a tiny private beach, of volcanic sand. The view from our room, sensational, and the sound of the lapping waves through the French doors will lull us both to sleep very well. We are just about to head to dinner, and I am sure we will sleep very well! Tomorrow, we catch the cable care up to the town proper and explore!
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  • Syracuse, Sicily to Catania

    26. toukokuuta 2019, Italia ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    We checked it of our lovely hotel in Taormina, an walked to the cable car, which takes you to the upper township. It was tourist central, so incredibly busy. We headed for the main attraction,a Greek theatre,still in operation. At least, they’ve set up a plywood stage and do some shows or other. Completely detracts from the historical value, in my opinion, but whatever. The view from the theatre was fabulous.

    We left Taormina, and with plenty of time on our hands, headed for Syracuse (Siracusa). A beach side town, not very pretty, had lots of ruins, but not very accessible! We did not linger, as we were quite tired... we headed to Catania, where the Mercure Grand Excelsior awaited.

    After check in, we decided that we had had enough Italian food for a while, as Paul scouted a Chinese restaurant with insteps of the hotel. It was cheap, and the novelty of the Chinese speaking Italian was worth it. The food, however, was quite possibly the worst Chinese food ever eaten. Absolutely dreadful, and I paid the price all night, with the worst reflux... lesson learned! Haha

    Today we had a leisurelly start, we wandered around Catania, which is just another city, and found the main square. There was a big cathedral, which was lovely inside. It struck midday as we entered, and the organist started playing, which was quite surreal. St Agatha was laying in a glass coffin, her hands blackened, but her face must not be in such good nick, as it was covered by a mask...she was martyred around 251 AD, so I guess she can be forgiven. Every year they celebrated the Feast of St Agatha, and she is rolled out in two ancient carriages from the 1800s. While in the cathedral, I urged Paul to the Confessional, as it had been a while...then we realised we only had 6 hours till our ferry, so not enough time for Paul to come clean...haha.

    We wandered back to our hotel, and as t was now drizzling with rain, and there was a km t I theft, we caught a taxi (luxury!). We have checked in to the ferry (an I note resting process in itself, as you are driven around the port in a mini van to check in, then a short wait in a bar, then minivan drives you on tothe ship!

    We are heading for Valletta Malta, arriving at about midnight. New country, next adventure! Will check in tomorrow night, kids! Looking forward to this one!
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  • Cathedral of St John

    27. toukokuuta 2019, Malta ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    This Cathedral is dedicated to the Order of StJohn. It is quite an amazing Baroque spectacle. The floors are inlaid marble headstones for the Knights of the Order of St John, and are incredibly ornate - I have posted a couple of pics. There was so much to see in here, and really beautiful. The Maltese Cross is very prominent throughout, as well as St John, the healer...

    I climbed up the balcony, which was high above the alter, to get some high shots above the church...it was a stunning building...
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  • Catania to Valetta, Malta

    27. toukokuuta 2019, Malta ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We left Catania Sicily by ferry, arriving at our hotel by 3am, after a 2 hour delay, and being left stranded a the port. Our hotel is fabulous, in a great location. We had a few hour sleep, then had the best breakfast so far on the trip. Time to hit t by we road,and walked to the township. First stop,we went to to was the Royal Palace and Armoury, which was interesting... They made em pretty small those days...

    There are lots of cute alleyways, and heaps of tourists, esp Brits.

    The next stop was the Co-Cathedral of St John. I’ll post this separately,as it was an amazing church inside.
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  • Ferry to Sliema, Malta

    28. toukokuuta 2019, Malta ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    In the afternoon, we took a small ferry across the harbour to Sliema, and wandered the streets for a few hours. We were really impressed by Valletta, it is so clean, interesting and very safe. All around the harbour are old forts, and battlements, remnant from Word Wars I & II.

    We had an early dinner, by European standards (at 7 pm), and then headed back to our hotel. Tired after the late night previously, and big day tomorrow. We had a very refreshing swim in the pool, and felt energised.

    Tomorrow, off to the Island of Gozo, before a late night flight to our next destination...
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  • Acropolis Now with John & Helen

    29. toukokuuta 2019, Kreikka ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    A long day, we caught up with good friends John and Helen, who flew from Heathrow. We arrived in Athens just after 1.30am, and they arrived at 2.45 am. Waiting for us was a driver, to take us to our accommodation. The journey was 45 minutes through empty streets (the best way to go!), and we checked in to our little apartment at about 4am and grabbed a few hours of much needed sleep. Later that morning, before we ventured out, we were moved into a bigger apartment which was a bit more room. That done, we went in search of much needed coffee and breakfast, only a hundred metres or so away.

    The next few steps had us in the shadow of the Acropolis. There was quite a queue to get in, and we were convinced to take a guide,including entry ticket to jump the queue. Good in theory, but the guide moved so slowly, she bored us to tears, so after 45 minutes, we escaped and headed up the top by ourselves. Lesson learned (note to anyone coming to the Acropolis: don’t be tempted to do this to beat the queue! Tickets are apparently available on line, and you will be able to scan and walk through!)

    It was quite arm, and a glorious day. The Parthenon (otherwise known as the Temple of Athena) is undergoing renovations, so there’s scaffolding and cranes around, but it remains an iconic structure.
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  • Temple of Hephaestus

    29. toukokuuta 2019, Kreikka ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    From wandering the Acropolis, we entered the lower grounds heading to the Temple of Hephaestus. This building was where a 500 strong council gathered to meet. Outside, a sculpture of Emperor Hadrian sat, in full regalia.

    Helen and I climbed what the boy’s affectionately named Backpacker’s Rock, but was actually called Areopagus Hill. This huge rock was where the Apostle Paul apparently delivered a sermon when he came to Athens. It’s quite a treacherous climb due to the granite being worn smooth from the millions of people who have climbed it over the Millennia.

    We then moved to a little church, dated 1000 AD, John took a thinking pose, before entering to light a candle to ensure our safe travels (at least, that’s what we think he was doing...)

    From there, we found a stunning spot for a beer break, and downed a few pints, as the day was warm, and we were getting a bit weary. Lots of laughs were had. Refreshed, off we went, wandering through the Plaka area, of restaurants, stall and shops. There was a stunning little sweet shop that took the fancy of Helen and I...

    After 18000 steps, we headed back to our apartment, to shower and ready to hunt and gather for dinner, and by that, I mean find a great restaurant.

    We had sent our scout Paul ahead, and he managed to find “Smile - the Family Restaurant”. We were sceptical, but we were tired and very hungry. What a gem, Paul redeemed his notorious restaurant seeking skills. We ordered the mixed grill (“for two”) with grilled kalamari, and grilled whole sea bream, and Greek salads. Suffice to say, we were absolutely stuffed and the food was amazing. We finished off with a dessert of Greek Yoghurt, with chocolate and mint (think Arnott mint slice biscuit, though John suggested toothpaste was closer haha). We explained the art of a flat white (and they succeeded well, and in return, they convinced us to try Metaxa, a Greek brandy, somewhat reminiscent of cough syrup! We laughed and then meandered around the corner to our apartment, and collapsed in to bed.
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  • Hellenic Parliament

    30. toukokuuta 2019, Kreikka ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    At 16.00 hours, we managed to arrive precisely at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, in front of the Hellenic Parliament Building. At this time, the Changing of the Guard occurred. The Evezone are an elite military force, who guard the Tomb 24 hours a day. They provided an impressive display for the 40 or so people who’d gathered to watch, and we were very lucky to be there...Lue lisää

  • Acropolis Museum, and Syntagma

    30. toukokuuta 2019, Kreikka ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    A slower start today, we headed out for breakfast and coffee, then headed into the Acropolis Museum, with the tickets we’d bought the previous afternoon to jump the queue (having learned our lesson the day before). This is a brand new structure, which has been built over excavated ruins still being unearthed, and large areas of the floor of the museum are glass, so you can see the ruins beneath.

    Many artefacts have been removed from the Temple of Athena (the Parthenon) and displayed here, a lot reconstructed and “completed” with plaster, so the visitor can appreciate the final art works...quite amazing.

    Leaving the museum,we walked towards Hadrian’s Gate, and the Gardens of Syntagma. A lush, but untamed area of gardens in the centre of Athens, near the Parliament House.
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  • Delphi and Patras

    1. kesäkuuta 2019, Kreikka ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We left Athens after collecting our hire car, and headed toward our first hotel. On the way, we stopped an an overlook, Arachova. The town itself was very quaint, but we pushed on reaching the archeological site of Delphi. Had a 5 minute cool rain drizzle, followed by some camera issues (horror!) but the site was very interesting with a “stadia” (running and athletics track) at the top. Below the site is a museum, with artefacts recovered from the site. From there, we drove to the town of Patras, and our apartment. We grabbed the chance to use the washing machine (always a joy to find on vacation!) then headed out to find dinner. All the restaurants in these towns seem to centre around a big square, and after getting directions, we found the spot. Then came decision time. We decided to go to the one where all the people were. “Talks” - a great decision! The manager apologised that all the tables were booked after 10.30pm, but if we could be done by then, we were welcomed. It was only 8.30, so was fine. The food was great, and the music cranked up Greek Latin Swing. It was awesome! We’ve since searched on google, and have downloaded. Sated with food, wine, ouzo and music, we reluctantly left, and headed back home. It was a fabulous place for a birthday dinner!Lue lisää

  • Sparti to Corinth

    3. kesäkuuta 2019, Kreikka ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today we left Sparti heading for Corinth, and for John & Helen to take a handover for their home for the next 4 months, the Captain John, a 46 foot Bavaria. On the wat, we stopped at a site of ancient ruins - Mycenae. This was a fortress perched high upon a hill, with magnificent views over a very fertile valley, all the way to the sea.

    It was a quick stop, as we needed to be in Corinth by 12.30, which we made easily. Reaching Corinth, we headed to the Marina where Giannis was waiting for John & Helen. Our first meeting with the Captain John! Once loaded aboard, John and Helen had their briefing for a few hours, Paul and I went for a walk in the township scoping our restaurants for dinner.

    Once Giannis had finished, we asked directions for a supermarket to provision up. It was a problem on a Sunday, but Giannis saw a local cop,who radioed other officers, who reported where a large super market was open on a Sunday! So,off we went! European supermarkets are always an adventure, but Greek even more so! No recognizable brands, but even to see what the ingredients are is often a big challenge! Haha. We headed back to the boat, and off loaded, but then Paul had to drive back to Athens (an hour’s drive, to drop off the car). We put the groceries away, and the wind had picked up. Many boats were coming into the marina for shelter and one tried to raft up next to us, but as it was so windy, not a good idea. He left. Another boat came in late, and moored next to the break wall. At 11pm, we saw his boat listing deep, it appears his keel was stuck on something, and the emergency boat came to help release him. Don’t know if it was successful, as the boat was still there the next morning, not listing though, but tide was up.

    We when came back from dinner, we were relaxing when a fireworks show started about 10.30pm. Paul came back by this time, having to wait for a train. We’d seen a wedding, and figured the fireworks were for that! Very cool way to spend the first night aboard!

    hot and tired after a long day, headed into town for a
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  • Corinth to Epidavros

    3. kesäkuuta 2019, Kreikka ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Today we set sail, and the first task was lining up for the Corinth Canal. This is a narrow 4km long man-made isthmus. It is one way traffic at a time, so the boats line up to wait till it’s our turn. It’s quite fascinating going through, and quite narrow. At the other end, you have to moor, and complete paperwork for the harbour master, paying the tolls of course. We took the opportunity to fill up with diesel as well. As with all of Greece, cats abound, and one little white cat took a shine to Paul. Such a shine, that it jumped on the boat when we weren’t looking! It got quite miffed when I grabbed it and tossed him back to shore!

    We sailed for a couple of hours, mooring at Epidavros, disembarking and then could a taxi to the ruins of an ancient theatre. It was very impressive as it was mostly intact, and had amazing acoustics! Paul impressed us all by singing Waltzing Matilda for the masses, which when we were a the top of the stadium, could hear clearly. Regrettably I was not quick enough for video,capturing only the last few seconds...what a trooper!

    We decided to have a home-cooked meal tonight, and John excelled as usual. Beth decided to jump in the water to test it out - cool, but do-able!

    It was a much calmer night’s sleep in calm waters!
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  • Mykonos to Heraklion

    8. kesäkuuta 2019, Kreikka ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Today we sad a sad farewell to John and Helen, as they set forth on the next 3 months and 3 weeks of their Odyssey. The winds were up, so getting us back to the new port of Mykonos so we could disembark was always going to be a challenge. However, the gods were smiling then, as the Harbour master allowed us to berth on the good side of the harbour, in calm waters, and John and Helen executed a perfect parallel mooring, complete with perfectly placed (old tyre) step, allowing clumsy Beth to get off with dignity (unlike her usual method of hands and knees!). As the sailed away into the sun, Paul and I made the short walk to our ferry site, and proceeded to wait. We were supposed to board the super fast catamaran ferry at 13.15 hours, arriving in Heraklion at 19.30, with quick stops in Eos and Santorini. When we checked in, they told us our direct ferry was cancelled, but we were to change at Santorini. No probs, we said. However, that time came and went, with no ferry. They assured us all would be fine and we’d make the connection. Then, at 3pm, they announced all the tickets would have to be reissued,and those going to Eos & Santorini would go at 4pm. However, no good for us, as that means we would miss the onlyconnection to Heraklion til the next day. They’d put us upon a hotel. Nope, we said, not good enough. So, they said they’d pay for flights there. Ok we said. Only problem, was that we had to go back to Athens first, then Heraklion. Then they said we could catch the town bus to the airport. Nope, we said. So they sent a car for us. Then,had to sit around airport til 21.30. That plane was late! Ugh, we were then worried we’d miss the connection in Athens, but fortunately, got there with minutes to spare. We hailed a cab at Heraklion airport, taking us to our lovely hotel, who were waiting with welcome drinks, and a lovely room. Finally in bed by 1.30am!Lue lisää

  • Heraklion

    9. kesäkuuta 2019, Kreikka ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    After a disaster day yesterday, we took to the streets of Heraklion, following the Venetian fortress walls. We came across some gorgeous churches, a fountain built in 1649, wonderful back alleys and laneways, and fishing boats at the harbour...Lue lisää

  • Heraklion - Knossos

    10. kesäkuuta 2019, Kreikka ⋅ 🌫 24 °C

    Today we picked up our hire car and drove to Knossos. I’d learned about Knossos in my Ancient History class at high school, so I had a good idea of Minoan civilisation, and the history here, though have to admit, after the Museum of Herculaneum, which was excellent, we were underwhelmed...and their management of crowds, large tour groups and passageways leads much to be desired! still, it is a tick off the bucket list!Lue lisää

  • Knossos to Chania

    10. kesäkuuta 2019, Kreikka ⋅ 🌫 26 °C

    From Knossos, we headed to Chania, and our hotel at Platanias. The hotel was a big resort on the beach, and we had a lovely huge room, with a big sun drenched patio. Wonderful! The following day we jumped in the car and drove to Balos Beach. Amazing! The last 7 km was dirt road, and we learned that Europeans have no idea how to drive them refusing 9 go faster than 5km/hr! And they were mostly rentals!!!

    At the end, there was a 2km walk, but omg, was it worth it! A stunning beach and amazing views. Lots of local wildlife in the form of belled long-haired goats and donkeys.
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  • Istanbul to Dubai

    14. kesäkuuta 2019, Turkki ⋅ 🌫 25 °C

    First leg of 3 flight trip home, 28 hours in total. Sitting in the lounge at Istanbul, you can see I have a flush. One white wine and a G&T later. Flying Business all the way, so should not feel too terrible when we get home early Sunday morning!Lue lisää

  • Dubai to Bangkok.

    15. kesäkuuta 2019, Thaimaa ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Just landed, a few hour to spare... Shower then duty free? Why not!

  • Home!

    16. kesäkuuta 2019, Australia ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Cannot recommend Qantas Business class at all. Compared to Emirates, it's K-Mart to Harrods. Paul's entertainment system did not work at all, and as it was full, he couldn't be moved. They gave him a bottle of red to take home, and 5000 frequent flyer points as compensation (big deal)! The seats were not comfortable, and their amenities kit was very K-mart. The food was nothing compared with Emirates. It was a shame, as it was the longest leg. We were actually booked on an Emirates A380 flight for that last leg, but Emirates decided to pull out of the Bangkok-Sydney route, so we were transferred to a Qantas flight. Paul then tried to book the Dubai to Sydney direct, but there were no seats... Big shame!

    Anyway, glad to be home!
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    Matkan lopetus
    16. kesäkuuta 2019