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Tim In Japan
Tim In Japan

Tim In Japan

Former IT office worker, now liberated to chase a dream! Read more🇦🇺Wooloowin
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  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Leaving Wakkanai port
    1Roiling clouds over Mt Rishiri as we near Rishiri islandOdishomari town, biggest town on Rishiri island1What, are you people STILL following? (Life on the rocks)Mt Rishiri from the roadAlmost back at Odishomari town (hooray!)

    Rishiri Island

    September 22, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Since the weather's been so great, why not hit the water and check out one of the outlying islands? The Heartland Ferry company runs ferries 3 times a day to Rishiri and Rebun islands. Although I could take the car, it is a prohibitively expensive round trip to do that so the car has the day off. As it is, its around 50 AUD for the return trip to Rishiri island as a passenger.

    It's an early start as I want to take the first ferry of the day at 7:15. I have the choice of 1st class, 2nd class and no class (economy). Naturally I choose the last option as comfort and luxury are wasted on me (and I'm also tight btw).

    Like all ferry trips, there's interesting views of the port of departure, interesting views of the port of arrival and a lot of boredom in between. I look in vain for whales, dolphins, really just anything in the water but not much is happening. Just the odd whiff of tobacco from the smoking section 😝

    We arrive at Odishomari ferry terminal a bit after 9. The weather looks decent on the island, it might be a good hiking day. The ferry I was on continues on to Rebun Island but that's too far afield for me today.

    Rishiri island is around 60 km in circumference. Mt Rishiri sits seething in the middle of the island, an active volcano around 1700 metres high. It dominates all views of the island interior, and is visible from much of the North Hokkaido coastline.

    I decide to take the Soya bus to Kushtugata, which is 12-13 km from the ferry terminal. Owing to my inexperience with Japanese buses (what with having a car and all) a young lady has to help me out paying the fare (750 yen or just under 9 AUD) when I exit the bus. My idea is to walk back to the ferry terminal along the coastline and catch the 2:35 pm ferry back to Wakkanai.

    As it turns out, 13 km is a long way. The day is a bit warmer than I would like, not too much sea breeze coming through so I eat my lunch on some rocks at the beach (cue 4th photo). I'm able to stretch out and rest in the cool air for a few minutes, but unfortunately I still have over 7 km to walk and time is getting shorter.

    Eventually I make it back to the ferry terminal. Plenty of time up my sleeve. The ferry pulls in around 2:10 and what seems to be a thousand people disembark. Yet there's a queue of around 40 people standing by to get on. Why do this, everyone will get a seat! What's worse is that I'm IN the queue, regretting my decision as my tired feet yammer for a break.

    Fortunately I'm able to rest up in the 105 minutes or so it takes to return to Wakkanai. There are fewer people on board than when I came over, at least in economy. Still are some smokers doggedly pursuing their dreams of an early death 😜

    We disembark from Wakkanai and go our separate ways. A few people are in front of me as we walk back into the town. I hear the man in front of me exclaim, then I see what he sees: there's a STAG munching on vegetation in a car park. It's very close to the footpath we're on, so a little disconcerting 😯    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Hokumon Shrine at the front of Wakkanai Park
    Deer alert1A prayer to the heavens, at duskA prayer to the heavens, different perspectiveWakkanai at dusk. Hotel Saharin is the pinkish building next to the jetty roadMonument at dusk

    Wakkanai Park

    September 21, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    So I've driven back to the Hotel Saharin at Wakkanai. After a breather, there's still some time left in the day. Wakkanai Park is close(ish) by, so around 5 I walk on in.

    I hadn't realized that the park is on a hillside so it's a bit of a climb to reach different stages of the park. The entrance of the park is fronted by the Hokumon Shrine (a Shinto shrine) and shortly after that I walk past a small group of deer grazing on park vegetation. There is a fence between them and me, but a largeish stag is close to the fence. Easy, big fella, I don't want any trouble 🤐

    Some of the views over Wakkanai are magic. There's also sadness in some of the monuments over the loss of Japanese lives during the Russian WWII annexation of Sakhalen Island.

    I'm in a sober state of mind heading down from the park. I pass another grazing deer, it can't be more than 3 metres away. It's been one of the best days I've had in Japan as far as photos go, also one of the most affecting days. Vale ...    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Looking back, before reaching the White Road
    Near the start of the White RoadWhite Road countryside, including a wind farmMore countryside past the White RoadCountryside4Just about my favourite photo, sunlight shimmering on the water and Mt Rishiri in the background

    The White Road

    September 21, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Soya Park is around 14 km WSW from Cape Soya. There's nobody else in the park when I arrive so I'm able to eat my lunch in peace and quiet.

    The real reason I'm here is that there is a 2.3 km thoroughfare known as the "White Road" that winds through some countryside and has excellent views. I don't have a lot of information as to where it is, but in an unprecedented event I actually find it 🤤

    Conditions are perfect today as I traverse ... one guy taking photos of his motorbike is the only vehicle I see for ages. There are quite a few wind turbines in the area but the wind is not blowing today.

    Because conditions are so good, I continue on at the end of the White Road. Eventually nature calls, which of course coincides with the arrival of the first car I've seen in over an hour. Sod's law, I suppose. Move on, nothing to see here ...

    The total walk I do is around 8.6 km. On the way back I spy a couple of deer in the distance. As I'm upwind of them they see me rather than smell me. They snort a couple of times, run a short distance, look back, snort again and run off. I take some photos but for reasons made clear in upcoming posts they're not attached here.

    The sunlight shining off the sea is extremely picturesque, especially with Mt Rishiri in the background (an active volcano on Rishiri Island). I drive back to Wakkanai, but there's more to come ...    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    1Typical bilingual road sign
    Soya Misaki music monument1The photo says it allCape Soya from an overlooking parkIn the park at Cape SoyaView from park overlooking Cape Soya

    Cape Soya

    September 21, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Wakkanai is a border town for Japan with Russia. Consequently the road signs contain Russian interpretations, which I haven't seen before.

    The 2 countries have been in territorial disputes over the islands between Russia and Hokkaido since the 1800s. The end of the 2nd world war allowed the Russian army to retake Sakhalen island, which remains in Russian hands.

    I drove around 40 minutes along the northern Hokkaido coast to reach Cape Soya, the northernmost point in Japan. The weather was excellent, affording great photo ops. A kind lady who was in charge of a tourist group took my photo for me at the monument.

    I walked up a road and stairs to a park that overlooked the cape. The Japanese built a watchtower here due to the tensions with Russia. I was there at midday and there was what appeared to be a service marking the downing of a Korean Air flight by the Russians in 1983 because it strayed into their air space near Sakhalen island. Lest we forget ...    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    The way up
    Autumn colours in the murkIntrepid hikers on the way upSteam ventsAutumn coloursView(?) from the ropeway observation deck

    Mt Asahidake

    September 20, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    It's good to have ambitions, right? Well my ambition for the day is to drive for just over an hour back into the Daisetsuzan National Park, take the Asahidake ropeway to 1600 metres, hike up to the summit of Mt Asahidake in around 4 hours, ropeway down then drive for 5-6 hours to Wakkanai in the north west of Hokkaido.

    If it all pans out it will be a L-O-N-G day. I've been checking the Asahidake summit weather for 3 days and it's been consistently predicted to be clear for this morning. So I'm up at 5:30 and in the car by 7. I reach the Asahidake ropeway a bit after 8, manage to score FREE PARKING (I thought that was a myth in Japan) and buy a ticket for the ropeway.

    As soon as we all cram into the ropeway carriage (me and the tiny retirees of Japan) and it starts upwards, it's obvious we have a real problem (the photos are obvious spoilers). What weather forecasts can't predict is FOG, and there's a lot of it around.

    At Sugitami Station (the ropeway end point) we are at 1600 metres. All photos were taken here or a little higher. There is an observation deck and a short trail of around 1km. I walk towards the summit trail and start upwards. I see a couple of men who must be at least 70 walking some distance behind me. Although the trail isn't that difficult (and for once I'm wearing the hiking boots) there is no view, just a foggy void.

    As a solo hiker, I'm concerned about not being able to see the trail on the way back. So I make the decision after 30 minutes or so to head back down. The 2 men behind me continue upwards. I pass some hiking groups with the same intention (photo of 1 group). Why are they doing this. The conditions aren't particularly pleasant AND THERE'S NOTHING TO SEE.

    I take some photos around the ropeway trails, occasionally the wind clears some fog and opens up some of the landscape. A photo of a couple of steam vents is below but the video I've taken captures their hissing.

    So I'm back down the ropeway around 10:30 and start my drive north. Not particularly eventful, but closer to Wakkanai I get to drive on a FREEWAY (that's right, free parking and a freeway on the same day 😲). My car GPS has a little glitch for a while, leading me off the freeway onto a parallel service road. I employ executive override and we're back on track.

    It's after 5 by the time I reach Hotel Saharin, my home for 3 days. Long day even without the summit hike.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    View from Sounkyo Onsen town
    Sounkyo Onsen townTaisetsu DamView from Kamikawa National HighwayView from Kamikawa National Highway4Pepper steak dinner in food court Asahikawa

    Sounkyo Canyon

    September 19, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Daisetsuzan National Park is Japan's largest national park. There are 2 main portals to the park. Today I'm going to the northern entry, which is via Sounkyo canyon.

    The weather is still on the iffy side in the hour and a quarter it takes to reach Sounkyo Onsen town. I had hoped to take the Kurodake ropeway and do a small hike. Think again, the ropeway's closed due to inclement weather. The poor lady at the local Tourist Information is run off her feet trying to help multiple tourists. I don't wait to talk to her but instead walk through the town. It's dead, once again not being in season. The town's setting in the canyon is quite scenic (first two photos).

    I decide to drive further into the park. Route 273 (Kamikawa National Highway) splits from route 39 (Taisetsu National Highway) just before Taisetsu Dam (3rd photo) and continues around Taisetsu Lake (4th and 5th photos taken on the way).

    Once I turn around, the weather takes a turn for the worst past Sounkyo canyon and I drive once again in (at times heavy) rain. So outdoor activities are off the agenda back in Asahikawa. I have a quiet night and enjoy a pepper steak in the food court (last photo).    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    On the way to Asahikawa
    Lavi Soup Curry restaurant (the best)3Mucking around2Mucking around

    Typhoon Talim

    September 18, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The weather starts to deteriorate on Sep 17, so I restrict myself to short local hikes around the hotel. On the web I find that typhoon Talim has hit the southern parts of Japan with a lot of rain, and even Hokkaido can expect much rain on the 18th. Oh joy!

    I am staying in Asahikawa on the 18th and I'd hoped to pass through the towns of Furano and Biei on the way there. Unfortunately the weather is bleak most of the day so those plans are scuppered. I am wearing board shorts and thongs for the drive, which with my rain jacket makes me sort of weather proof.

    The wind really picks up in the central plain of Hokkaido between Takikawa and Asahikawa. Probably influenced by the mountains to the east.

    Asahikawa has a population of around 350,000 people, making it the 2nd largest city in Hokkaido after Sapporo. I'm staying at the JR Inn, which is right next to the train station. In fact, the hotel is part of the Aeon Mall complex, which comprises speciality stores (including a supermarket) and food court on the first floor, restaurants on 4F and the hotel on 5F. Note that in Japan there is no ground floor, so you normally walk in to 1F.

    All this is very handy as I can buy food without venturing outside. However, after driving all day I need some exercise so I run the weather gauntlet by walking in a local park. The city looks well set up as far as parks and tourism are concerned. It's surprising that the city is considered to be a gateway to other attractions rather than an attraction in its own right (like Brisbane I suppose).

    For dinner I select Lavi Soup Curry on level 4F (see 2nd photo). I have a braised pork soup curry with rice and drink a mango lassi. It is probably the most filling meal I've enjoyed in Japan. For less than 25 AUD.

    I also stock up on supplies at the supermarket, including a bottle of Furano wine (reasonably local to the area). Nothing better than donning hotel pyjamas and sipping on a cheeky red (3rd and 4th photos, taken BEFORE drinking).    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler

    Pop Buffet Restaurant

    September 17, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    On checkin to the Kiroro Tribute Hotel, I was asked if I would support a "save the planet" initiative by not having towels changed, bed linen changed etc for the duration of my stay. For this I was given 1000 yen (11-12 AUD) discount vouchers for dinner at the resort's restaurants. Sounded like a sweet deal so I was in 😚

    Which is actually restaurant singular as it is out of season. As my accommodation included breakfast, I had 4 breakfasts and 2 dinners at the Pop Buffet.

    I love a good buffet and Pop's breakfast buffet comprised both Japanese and Western elements. Day 1, I tried some of both but by Day 4 I had settled on boiled eggs, scrambled egg, ham, bacon and tomato followed by a banana and a bowl of fruit compote covered with yoghurt. And coffee, glorious coffee with multiple refills. Fill yer boots, son!

    Dinners had a set charge of 4000 yen (46 AUD) although my vouchers saved me 1/4. First dinner I ordered a glass of plum wine, which comes in a spirits glass with ice. Its taste was reminiscent of cough medicine I've tried in the past ... not necessarily a bad thing. 2nd dinner I ordered a bottle of saki. As it is a clear spirit it left no hangover. I quite enjoyed it.

    The dinner buffet took pride in offering Hokkaido specialities. I found the wasabi octopus quite challenging but made it through by channelling the Mt Fuji spirit. I enjoyed the "Genghis Khan" mutton, which is grilled, but my favourite was the Soup Curry. Basically you put vegetables such as broccoli, potato, carrot etc and meat or seafood into a bowl. You then ladle in the soup curry and add extra spices to taste. And you can add rice as you go! Super filling.

    Lots of nice pastries and cakes for dessert, all with gluten but I found the buffet was enough anyway. Wouldn't do it every night but well worth the money.

    NO PHOTOS.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Kiroro Gondola view from start
    Kiroro Gondola view from higher upView from top of Kiroro Gondola1Panoramic view of Otaru #11Panoramic view of Otaru #22Otaru Canal

    Kiroro Gondola and Otaru

    September 16, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    It's the weekend and you all know what THAT means ... yep, Japan's weekend warriors hit (ie. clog up) the road with a vengeance.

    With this in mind, I decide to minimize my travel by heading up the road to the Kiroro winter sports park. 1500 yen (17 AUD) buys me a round trip ticket on the Kiroro Gondola. It's quite a nice day and the views from the gondola are excellent, as the first 3 photos show. There aren't too many people around. I start a hike to Mt Yoichi but have to turn back because I HAVE BROUGHT THE WRONG FOOTWEAR. The trail is quite muddy and my hiking boots are in the frigging car 😣. Never mind, I think to myself, I'll do it tomorrow ... but of course the gondola is closed the next day due to excessive wind (insert coeliac joke here).

    So I decide to drive to Otaru which is due north on the coast. There is a panoramic view of the town coming down from the highlands - see photos. Being a Saturday it is really difficult to find parking, I'm in a queue for around 10 minutes. Walk to the canal which passes for a tourist attraction here.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    The Kiroro Tribute Portfolio Hotel
    2My hotel room #5701On the way to Otamanbe (South East coast)1West coast wind farmWest coast mountain backdropWest coast mountain backdrop

    South West Hokkaido Day 1

    September 15, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    My accommodation from September 14 to 18 is the Kiroro Tribute Portfolio Hotel (1st photo) where I stayed in room #5701 (2nd photo). This place is a resort that is heavily geared towards winter, what with the Kiroro ski fields up the road. It is also in the middle of nowhere so dining options are somewhat limited.

    First day there I drive down the east coast to Otamanbe, where I post a postcard to my Dad. The ladies running the post office are baffled by my appearance there. I leave them with the conundrum of how to place the stamps on the postcard without obscuring my text. I love messing with their heads! At the beach the country's love of plastic manifests itself in debris brought in by the tide.

    I drive further down the coast to Yakumo, visiting the Panoramic Park there, before heading back to the hotel. I decide to use the new car's GPS to set the route. All's well until the car instructs me to turn left off route 5 onto route 9. OK, I'll bite even though the route is 90 degrees to where I want to go. We then turn onto route 229 and continue on. After a while I notice a wind farm in the distance. What I don't see is any scenery to the west of me. It couldn't be ... but a couple of minutes later my worst fears are realized as I see the sea. So I've driven from the south east coast to the west coast! Which basically has circled around where I'm staying.

    The story has a happy ending as my car GPS does (eventually) navigate back to the hotel rather than just aimlessly taking me around the countryside until the car runs out of petrol and I die. To be fair, the west coast scenery is more majestic and there are many tunnels through the mountains. The last 3 photos show some of that scenery.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Sapporo TV Tower
    1View from the observatory at the top of Sapporo TV Tower1Cuteness in Sapporo TV TowerMy nemesis! In the greenhouse in Sapporo Botanical GardensOyster eatery in Odori Park2My rental car, a 4WD Toyota Vitz

    Sapporo

    September 14, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Owing to some dodgy planning on my behalf and a relative scarcity of available hotel rooms, I only have 1 day in Sapporo. I immediately realize my mistake as Sapporo is a happening place. It is also the easiest city to navigate as it uses a grid system. Very useful to someone like me with limited directional abilities (or none?)

    As it is autumn, Sapporo is in the middle of its autumn festival. This involves substantial food and drink in Odori Park, which stretches for many blocks. I have a guide map that tells me what is offered in each block of the park. But I've jumped ahead ...

    Firstly I stop for a coffee at Starbucks (what, again?! You should buy shares in the company blah blah blah I'm not listening). Quick quiz: how many Starbucks are there in the 2km between the train station and my hotel? Answer: 5 (seriously). I then pick up stacks of tourist info (in English!) from the tourist info place at the station.

    Given my limited time, I choose to range around the inner city. Firstly I walk to the TV Tower (1st photo) and visit the observatory at the top. Panoramic views over much of Hokkaido, the 2nd photo is just a sample.

    I then walk through Odori Park, taking in the atmosphere as many people have gathered to eat and drink. I deviate from the park to wander through the Botanical Gardens. In the greenhouse I spy a familiar palm tree and suppress my natural instinct to cut it down (impractical as I only have a Swiss Army knife).

    Finally it's time to eat and I choose a combo platter of lamb chop and 3 prawns. I make a decent fist of the chop with chopsticks, not so much the prawns. Continuing the seafood theme, I buy a plate of grilled oysters (5th photo) and find they're not too bad.

    I was meant to rent a car at 10am but it's closer to 2:30 by the time I reach Toyota car rental (which coincidentally adjoins the hotel where I stayed). Problems setting up the Bluetooth pairing, but that will have to wait. Time to hit the open road again!    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler

    Tokyo to Sapporo

    September 13, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    So I have a ticket for a shinkansen to Hakodate, which is a southern town on the island of Hokkaido. I have 12 minutes there to transfer to a JR line train which will take me to Sapporo. All up I will be travelling for 7 3/4 hours. Bear in mind my Brisbane to Tokyo flight took 9 hours.

    My shinkansen leaves from Tokyo station at 8:20 am. The station is a tad busy at that time of the morning and steering my megaluggage through the worker horde is challenging. All the more so as I need to go to track 21 and the clock is ticking. I eventually find the escalator to the right track with under 5 minutes to spare. I've run up a bit of a sweat and my right hand is bleeding for some unknown reason. It's a jungle out there!

    On board the train I cool down and relax. It's a smooth ride through Northern Honshu, then underground to Hokkaido. I make the transfer OK with time to walk extra distance to use the escalator rather than hauling my luggage up the stairs. It's a bit after 4pm when the train pulls into Sapporo.

    There's been some rain during the day but not at the moment. I decide to wheel my megaluggage 2km to the hotel, not the only one doing this! Later on I ring Aunty Joan via Skype to wish her a happy 90th birthday. I tell her I'm in Sapporo but it takes a while for the penny to drop that I'm not in Australia. She's had a big day so blame that.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    East Gardens layout at Imperial Palace, Tokyo
    Inside the East GardensInside the East Gardens1The capsule room on the 5th floor2Pod 510 (home sweet hole)2"What have I got myself into here"

    The Capsule Experience

    September 12, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    So I want to go from Matsumoto to Hokkaido. Rather than flying (which would be waaay too convenient) I've decided from the get go to take a bullet train to Sapporo, which is the Hokkaido major city.
    So I drive to Nagano, weather isn't great again, and drop off the car to the Toyota rental place there. Now I wheel my megaluggage to the train station (which is fortunately not far) and buy a shinkansen (bullet train) ticket to Tokyo via a vending machine. So far so good. It takes around 90 minutes to travel between Nagano and Tokyo. The leg room is surprisingly spacious in the seats, and there are no issues in reclining them. While it will always be quicker to fly, it is more convenient and comfortable to travel by shinkansen.
    Tokyo Station is huge as it services metro lines, shinkansen lines and regular JR (train) lines. I find the east exit as I want to drop my megaluggage at the Nishonbashi Bay Hotel. This gives me a couple of hours to wander around. It's good to be back in Tokyo! I haven't been around this area before so I walk to Chiyoda Park, which houses the Imperial Palace. Whilst that is off limits, it is free to walk through the East Gardens. They are substantial in their own right and deserve more time than I can give.
    Back at the hotel, I check in and am given a locker key and a floor card for pod 510. The locker isn't that big so my megaluggage will stay in storage on the 2nd floor. There is a guest lounge on the 2nd floor as well with a TV, powerpoints and the ubiquitous vending machines.
    I go out to eat at a local English-style pub called the Rose and Crown. I can sit at the bar and eat a meal there, which is tres convenient. I order the roast beef as it comes with vegetables (something I crave) and drink a couple of ginger highballs. The pub fills up while I'm there, mostly local workers letting off steam after work.
    Back at the hotel, the time eventually comes to take to the capsule. I'm conveniently 😣 on the top tier so I have to scale a ladder in and out. The capsule itself is reasonably spacious and has fan and light controls. It also has a light shade that pulls down and locks into place. While it is reasonably sound proof, you do hear people coming in and out of the capsule area. I think this is the reason that I wake up from time to time (and not the feeling that the walls are closing in). It's one of the things you try once, it only cost 57AUD and it's a valid stopover option.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    On the way to Matsumoto
    3Buddhist shrine in a rest area on the way to MatsumotoRyokan Seifu-so (my digs for 2 nights)Matsumoto CastlePeriod costumes at Matsumoto CastleAshish, proprietor of Doon Sukodo Indoyama

    Matsumoto

    September 11, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    <rant>
    If you like wide streets and big 4WDs, don't come to Matsumoto. I'm staying in a place that is on the canal. It is on a narrow lane ("street" would be an exaggeration) that supports 2 way traffic along with cyclists and pedestrians. I will never complain about Brisbane cyclists again!
    I miss the turn off to my destination because the car GPS tells me to turn down what appears to be a footpath. It is actually navigable by car (if you hold your breath). As to the left turn at the end of this footpath, there could be pedestrians, cyclists and 2 way car traffic to contend with .
    </rant>
    Route 158 into Matsumoto is in part a narrow track through the mountains with a tree canopy, switchbacks and hairpin turns. The Kamikaze spirit lives on in the local motorists. Being a Sunday, there are many hikers out and about. Matsumoto is the most touristed town I've been in since Kawaguchiko and there are a number of other Westerners staying at the Ryokan, including a couple from Geelong.
    I visited Matsumoto-jo, which is the local castle and was built in the late 16th century (like the other castles I've visited). Must have been turbulent times. The castle tour entails walking/climbing up very steep stairs to the 6th floor keep. I'm always on guard for low beams!
    That evening I dine at an Indian popup eatery called Doon Shokudo Indoyama. It's a one man show owned and run by an expat Indian called Ashish. He has good reviews on Trip Advisor which appeals to the young Mittel European travellers that I see there. I have a chicken curry which he cooks while chatting. He has a brother in Orange (NSW) which surprises me.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    View of Kokorobe Bridge from the outbound train
    Power plant next to Unazuki damSelfie on the way to Meiken OnsenThe littlest hikerView of Kurobe river inbound2Monkey suspension bridge inbound near Unazuki (look closely)

    Kurobe Gorge

    September 9, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    This is what I hope will be a highlight of my first stint in Japan. People come for the day from far flung Tokyo and Kyoto. I'd prefer not to do this on the weekend but today's weather is near perfect, better than yesterday's.
    It turns out to be a long day as I leave the hotel at 7:30 and return a bit before 5pm. It is possible to get to Unazuki station (the starting point of the Kurobe Gorge train) by public transport but it's more convenient to drive.
    The route takes me ENE around Toyama Bay to Kurobe and then SSE into the mountains to Unazuki. I buy a ticket at 8:53 for the 9am train. There are 3 stations after Unazuki where one can stop. Tickets can be bought at each station. I decide to go to the last station (Keyakidaira) and am the last person to board the train. I'm sitting in the regular (ie. cheap) carriage, which is open to the elements and contains backless bench seats. There is some spray that comes through in the tunnels but that's all part of the adventure.
    The other people on the train are mostly families and elderly people. Most don't stray too far from the station when we disembark at Keyakidaira station. There are a couple of trails to onsen and open air hot baths that are close to the Babadani river. This river looks like it would be used to generate hydroelectric power. There is a strong smell of sulphur around the hot baths. It's a very warm day, last thing I need is a hot bath!
    Opposite the Meiken onsen across a bridge, I take my shirt off for a little while so it can dry out. There's noone around, I'm in the shade and there's a nice breeze. It seems appropriate somehow.
    Back at the station, I buy some lunch in the upstairs bistro. In the land of vending machines, I put in money and push lucky button #24 to order a beef curry. A ticket prints with the number 580 on it. This number will be called out when my meal is ready, which is a slight hitch as I don't know the Japanese number system. I take the approach of waiting to see if anyone picks up a meal after a number is called. This fortunately works!
    I buy a ticket for a brief stopover at Kinetsura station, which is the next station along. Then it's back to Unazuki in the cheap seats, then home!    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Goju-no-to pagoda (5 stories) at Myojoji
    Inside Sanko-do at MyojojiMyojoji temple pondAround Komaruyamajoshi ParkAround Komaruyamajoshi Park1Around Komaruyamajoshi Park

    Noto Peninsula

    September 7, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    So it's time to leave (currently wet) Kanazawa to go to Toyama. It's not much over 60km between the two cities. Since I have all day to get there, I plan to take the long way round by driving north up the West coast of the Noto peninsula, crossing over to the East coast of the peninsula then driving through to Toyama.
    It sort of turns out that way, but bear in mind that driving in Japan always takes longer than you expect. The weather is also a factor but not at first. The way north from Kanazawa takes me on to an expressway, which is easy driving but not scenic. No tolls in this area, thank goodness.
    I decide to visit Myojoji Temple on the way through. It was founded by the Buddhist Saint Nichizo in 1294. There is some rain so I've put on a rain jacket. The monk that sells me a ticket lends me an umbrella anyway and tells me to walk clockwise through the site, which includes a pagoda, hall, tomb, cemetery, pond and garden. I don't walk into the buildings as my shoes are muddy.
    From here the weather starts to deteriorate and I've lost network coverage. I cross over to a town called Nanao on the peninsula east coast. I park in the Nanao Art Museum car park and eat my lunch while it rains outside.
    I put on my waterproof gear and go for a walk in the rain. This takes me past an area called Komaruyamajoshi Park. It contains walking trails that go past a number of shrines (last 3 photos). Very pleasant, even in the rain.
    Eventually I go back to the car and head towards my hotel in Toyama. The rain becomes heavier for prolonged periods but thankfully has eased up by the time I get to the hotel.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Fog on the way to Ainokura
    Ainokura from a distance1Ainokura gassho-style houseMore gassho-style houses at AinokuraWorld Heritage Listing explanation1Green is the colour on the way to Shirakawa-go

    Ainokura and Shirakawa-go

    September 6, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    So the weather is a bit crook in Kanazawa today. Not much value in walking around the city so I decide to drive to Shirakawa-go.
    Along with Ainokura and Suganuma, Shirakawa-go is World Heritage listed because they contain gassho-style houses. Most of these houses are 100 to 200 years old but the oldest could be 400 years old.
    The houses have been built to withstand heavy snowfall with an alpine like shape and are built from local trees. No nails are used.
    I find that while it might not be raining on my drive, there is considerable fog. This gives an eerie look to some of the photos.
    I drop in to Ainokura village first. It costs 500 yen (6 AUD) to park and look around. There aren't too many other cars here so it's comfortable to browse around. I took a number of photos with eerie fog backgrounds.
    I drive through Suganuma and notice more gassho-style houses. By the time I get to Shirakawa-go it is later in the day. There are a horde of tourists here so I backtrack to Kanazawa, where it's still raining albeit quite lightly.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    My guide (Atsuko) and some guy who really needs a photo stunt double
    2Gyokusenin-maru GardenGyokusenin-maru Garden

    Kanazawa Castle Park

    September 5, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    So across the road from Kenrokuen Garden is the Castle Park. They offer a 30 minute guided English tour, which today is conducted for my benefit by Atsuko. She grew up in Kanazawa and studied Mathematics 20 years ago at the University when it was located in the Castle Park. Prior to then it was also used as army barracks. These days the Castle Park is heritage listed.
    So the Maeda family used to be the 2nd richest family in Japan after the Shogun himself. They built the castle in 1583 with elaborate defenses and considerable weaponry, but it was never attacked. Unfortunately parts of the castle were destroyed by fire in the past but some buildings have been reconstructed. The Ishikawamon Gate is the main gate and a highlight of the castle.
    Atsuko leaves me near the Gyokusenin-maru Garden. Originally it was attached to a villa built by the 3rd lord for the widow of the 2nd lord. The villa is long gone but the garden still remains.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Kanazawa city view
    Green marshmallowsKaisekito Pagoda near Hisagoike pondBridge across Hisagoike pondAnother city view

    Kenrokuen Garden

    September 5, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Kanazawa was spared Allied bombing during WWII as it contained no military targets. It was the 2nd largest city in Japan (after Kyoto) to have that distinction.
    Kenrokuen Garden is one of the top 3 gardens in the country and has been designated as a national site of special scenic beauty. There are tourist buses that run clockwise and anti-clockwise around Kanazawa's cultural precinct so access is pretty easy. I spent close to an hour walking around the garden. It also offers panoramic views of the city. More catfish spotted, thankfully they're not the same size as those in South America (as seen on River Monsters, if you've never seen it do yourself a favour!)Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Hakuba open garden
    Mountain view from Hakuba3Honda S660 roadster1

    Nagano to Kanazawa

    September 4, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    It's a long drive to Kanazawa today. Firstly the route takes me west to Hakuba, which is a popular ski resort, although quiet at this time of year. The first photo is of an Open Garden area there.
    The route then takes me north through Otari to Itoigawa on the Toyama Bay coast. Quite spectacular views of both mountains and coastline. I have video only of this.
    From here it's west past Toyoma to Kanazawa. Lots of traffic, some congestion and not much scenery. I take a photo of a Honda S660 roadster (for you Joe) which looks pretty cool.
    I reach Kanazawa and pass my hotel on the left. I strain my eyes looking for hotel parking but there are workmen outside the hotel so I park in a street lot. Around $7AUD for the day, which is much better than hotel rates. I move my car to the hotel tower park the next day. Basically my car goes into a lift which goes up and dispatches my car somewhere on a higher floor. Problematic if you want to grab anything out of the car later! When you ask for your car, the process is reversed and the car rotates on a carousel in the lift. So you can drive it out directly without reversing.
    Anyway I check into my room at Hotel Mystays. It's a double SMOKING room of an impressive size (last 2 photos) but the cigarette smell is overwhelming on first entry. A/C helps but the smell is in the pillowcase and towels. That's the only downside as the hotel has a small gym and a free laundry. I use both of course.
    It also offers room service so I order a grilled pork on rice and lettuce meal for around 8AUD. Very filling! This hotel is better at catering to international tourists than the others I've stayed at. Highly recommended as long as you book a non-smoking room!    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler

    Driving in Japan

    September 3, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Road rules are very similar to those in Australia, and it's definitely a plus that they also drive on the left side. That said, there are a few observations to be made.
    Roundabouts and one way streets. These don't seem to exist, although it's possible that I've gone the wrong way down a one way street. Unlikely as it would be signposted. I wonder what Japanese drivers make of roundabouts when they drive here?
    Road maintenance men. They are the matadors of the road, brandishing red flags to stop traffic and white flags with elaborate gestures for traffic to continue.
    Speeding. Everyone speeds outside of the cities. Some speed limits are definitely too low. If you want to drive at or under the speed limit, be prepared to be tailgated by a convoy. I drive to the conditions and see what other drivers are doing. There are speed cameras so I rely on their local knowledge.
    Rain. The roads don't seem to have adequate drainage so there are many MANY puddles when it rains. Large trucks coming the other way can create a tsunami that lands squarely on the windscreen.
    Road etiquette. Drivers are quite polite and unagressive. I haven't seen any road rage, I don't think it's in the national character. Quite a relief for me as they tend to be tolerant of my driving!
    Toll roads. These are prohibitively expensive, potentially 50AUD for 200 km. Fortunately both Google Maps and the car GPS support route editing to exclude toll roads. I inadvertently found myself on one the other day and I had to make a U-turn quite sharpish.
    Tunnels. If you're wanting to drive through scenic countryside, then you will encounter many tunnels. The longest I've driven through would be around 2km. How much money do they spend on infrastructure here?
    Hazard lights. Turn these on if you need to street park. Leave your car there as long as you like, even if you're blocking traffic.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Cable car at RV park
    Everyone wants a feedRV park near the pondFrom my hotel window in NaganoMy Teppanyaki menuTeppanyaki chef "makes fire"

    Towards Nagano

    September 2, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    It's 188 km from Kawaguchiko to Nagano, which is a long day's drive on the general roads. The mountains are a constant backdrop to the day even when I'm stuck in Saturday traffic. Plenty of 7-11 stores along the way for pitstops and stretching.
    Towards 10:30 I stop at a rest area which is an RV park. At first glance it's not impressive, but as I walk through it I warm to it greatly. There's a cable car and a pond with catfish and ducks, all jockeying for position should some scraps come their way. It would be a great lunch stop but it's sadly too early in the day. The first 3 photos come from this area.
    It's busy in the centre of Nagano when I cruise in. I end up parking in a multi-story car park, which takes ages as we have to wait for cars to exit first.
    My hotel room is typically small and has views to the south east (4th photo). I've looked online for Nagano restaurants and have found a Teppanyaki restaurant within 200 metres. It's menu is also online so I'm able to translate it.
    When I walk there I find there's a girlie bar next to the lift I am taking. Distracting. On the 9th floor the head waiter tells me it will take around 2 hours to go through all the courses. It actually takes 90 minutes. I'm really there for the 160 gms Australian beef but sit through the other courses. They present challenges as I dodge the croutons in the salad and try to work out how to eat a prawn with chopsticks. I end up just using my hands, which works for me. The chef gives me a cue for the photo ops, all in all a good night.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Cable car return trip
    Picture 1 from Mitake-san1Picture 2 from Mitake-sanView from route 411

    Okutama

    September 1, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    So I've decided on a longish return drive to Okutama. I use Google Maps to navigate. It takes me along route 139. There are quite a few turns and many 30kmh zones. I take a pitstop at a rest area in Tsuru. It's extremely scenic past here with mountains, a river and multiple dams.
    As I progress to more remote terrain I hit a technical problem. Turns out my data SIM provider doesn't have coverage in this area so Google is gonski. Time to bone up on the car GPS system. It's not difficult as it supports destinations based on names or phone numbers (and is in English). Soon I'm back in the game.
    I eventually make it to Takimoto station. This is where I took the cable car up to Mitake-san, which is at 939 metres. The 1st photo is from the return trip as I had a good view down. At the top it's typically touristy but there are panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. I walk up a few trails before returning via the cable car to Takimoto.
    The car GPS selects route 411 for the return trip. I won't be back in Kawaguchiko until after 5 so I have limited stops. That's a pity as I cross a number of small and picturesque bridges which are well worth a photo. There's much less stress on this route. Eventually I turn on to route 137 which takes me back to the Ryokan.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    1
    1Lake MotosuMt Fuji view from Lake Motosu

    Laundry Day!

    August 31, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    So I've rented a car from the local Toyota franchise. It is a Toyota Vitz compact car, so it's not fast but is easy to park (photo 1). The first task is to do some laundry as the Tokyo heat and Mt Fuji trek have severely stretched my clothing resources.
    The coin laundry is on a main road and should be easily accessible, yet Google Maps insists on using back streets. Or it's just me. Anyway I eventually find it and decide on a machine (2nd photo). I have bought detergent and manage to follow all the steps to start a 27 minute wash (with the help of Google Translate). Once that is done I load up a dryer for 50 minutes.
    While the clothes are drying I drive to a park at Katsuyama rest area on Lake Kawaguchiko. It's pretty and tranquil, so I sit on the grass, eat my lunch and watch young people throwing a baseball and kicking a soccer ball. Back at the laundry, my clothes are bone dry. Mission accomplished!
    Later in the afternoon I drive around Lake Motosu. It's beautiful, serene and very quiet. Good views of Mt Fuji from here. Last 3 photos.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    My room before dinner
    1Bedding configured while I'm eating1Dinner night 1The massage service I used1Dinner night 2The ryokan at night

    Yamagishi Ryokan, Kawaguchiko

    August 29, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    So the bus from Gotenba deposited me at Kawaguchiko station. I'm still wearing my hiking gear (including boots) but it's 29 degrees here and I'm carrying around a dry bag and a day pack. I stop by the ryokan where I will be staying. Check in isn't until 3 but I can leave my dry bag there until I check in. My luggage has made it from Tokyo, huzzah!

    When I do check in I'm taken through the formalities of dinner and breakfast, both supplied for the duration. I show the staff my dietary requirements in Japanese which causes considerable angst. So a tip for you coeliacs out there: either don't stay at a ryokan or put up with the meals and avoid the obvious gluten traps.

    The first two photos show my room (529) before and after dinner. So bedding is prepared while I'm eating (3rd photo). No footwear is worn at dinner or in the room. There is a small landing next to my door and a shoe rack. There is a low table for meals, impossible for a middle aged caucasian such as myself to negotiate, and also a smaller but crucially higher table which is more suitable.

    Dinner time is either 6pm or 6:30. Breakfast is 7:30, 8 or 8:30. I've asked for the 6:30 dinnertime and 7:30 breakfast time. I find the breakfast not so suitable so will skip the last 2. It will now be the GF weetbix, some yoghurt, cheese, fruit and cold coffee. Breakfast of champions, what!

    The ryokan has an onsen (public bath) available at no charge to guests. I've been once but didn't feel greatly improved. I think the 35 minute in-room massage was more effective. The Mt Fuji hike has definitely taken it out of me!    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    1

    Mt Fuji

    August 29, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    So a group of 16 meet up at Tochomae metro to hike Mt Fuji. The tour is run by Fuji Mountain Guides with 4 young guys (3 Americans and a Brit) as tour guides. It takes a long time to exit Tokyo as we're on the road by 7am during peak commuting period.
    The hike starts at the Subishiri 5th station, which is 1950m above sea level. Our goal is to reach Fujisan lodge (3400m) by late afternoon. We'll have an early night there, then leave for the summit at 2:30 am.
    Being of a certain age, I've retired the backpack and bought modern luggage. So I've rented a backpack and 2 hiking poles from the guides. It's immediately apparent that I can't fit all my gear into this backpack, so my daypack comes along for the ride. It starts initially attached to the backpack but that's too awkward so it becomes a frontpack later in the day.
    It's surprisingly warm and humid at 2000 metres. I'm wearing long trekking pants and sweating profusely (like most of the others). There's a lot of fog around so the views are non-existent. The 1st photo shows this. It's at one of the stations where we can take a break, have a toilet stop and buy drinks.
    We eventually make it to the Fujisan lodge by 4pm. The 2nd photo shows its location above the cloud layer. The 3rd photo shows the track leading up to the lodge with hikers. So dinner is supplied and is a curry with rice. Filling and quite flavoursome.
    We're turning in around 7pm. We each have a supplied blanket and sleeping bag but are tightly packed together. So if I lay on my back and stuck my elbows out I would hit 2 people. Some people sleep but my immediate neighbours both snore so I while away the hours in quiet desperation.
    Finally it's 2:30 and time to trek upwards. We go single file and encounter wind and freezing rain. Turns out the waterproofing wax I bought for my boots isn't that great. Awesome time to find out. There are a lot of hikers after the same goal. We get to the summit and mill around trying to take cover from the wind and rain. It's very cloudy but suddenly the sun appears! The crowd goes "oooh" and a mad scramble ensues to take photos. 15 seconds later the clouds are back and the opportunity is lost! Only for a couple of minutes as magically the clouds roll away and the sun is revealed in awesome majesty. These are my last 3 photos, including the obligatory "summit selfie".
    Anyway it's not smart to linger at the summit so we trek back to Fujisan lodge for breakfast. Chicken with scrambled eggs, very tasty. Everything is packed away and we make our descent. This is the reason that parts of my body no longer talk to me. With the weight I'm carrying my knees and toes cop a pounding. The terrain is mostly scree but there are sections involving rocks that were challenging. Thank God for the hiking poles!
    Eventually I make it back to the starting point. Time for a drink, a bit of a rest and then I'm off to Gotenba in the van. And that's the end of my Mt Fuji adventure.    Read more

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