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  • Tim In Japan

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A 36-day adventure by Tim In Japan Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 23, 2017
    Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    1

    Asakusa, Tokyo

    August 23, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Made it to the Red Planet Hotel by 9:30. Flight was delayed to 11:45 out of Brisbane. Takes ages at Narita airport to progress through fingerprint and retinal scans. Made it on to the Keisei Skyliner with a minute to spare! Had to cart my luggage between the Ueno Keisei station and the metro station a few 100 metres away. No problems catching the metro and eventually found the hotel. It's hot and humid in Tokyo, I was sweating checking in. Photos from my hotel room window.Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Breakfast
    On the north wall of Senso-ji1Senso-jiCarp in a small stream1Otaca Sweets GF display1What's for dinner?

    Asakusa day 2

    August 24, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    It's 34 degrees and humid today (weather app says it feels like 41). I've bought my breakfast from the Family Mart and it was OK. Coffee at Starbucks (I walked past it ok, give me a break jeez!) Walked through the Asakusa shopping streets, then off to the adjoining parkland that contains the Senso-ji Buddhist temple and other temples. No photos allowed inside the temples.
    Bought some GF cakes from Otaca Sweets, should be interesting.

    My data SIM is operational so I'm connected! Have bought a Pasmo card, which is like a Go Card on steroids. It can be used in vending machines as well as on all trains in Greater Tokyo.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    12

    Tokyo Skytree

    August 24, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    This is the tower shown in my first post and it is a 25 minute walk away. I'm on the 12th floor of this hotel. I left just after 7 (still 31 degrees) and arrived around 7:30. I bought a "fast combo" ticket for around $46. It's a tourist thing, you bypass the queues and can go to both viewing platforms (350 and 450 metres). The tower itself is 634 metres high; the first photo gives some background on its construction (one for the engineers out there).
    Much like Centrepoint in Sydney but with Thomas the Tank Engine, anime and seasonal themes. A video I took encapsulates this as well as the crowd. Unfortunately you have to become a premium member to upload video 😣    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    1Dharma wheel (which fascinated me)Honkan Japanese GalleryHyokeikanMuseum garden and teahouse, not open at this time of yearSort of a selfie used by stealth, the elderly couple behind me are lunching

    Tokyo National Museum

    August 25, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    There is so much to see in Tokyo's museum district in Uenoonshi park. I spent most of the morning in the National Museum's Honkan building, which hosts the Japanese Gallery. It had so much information from pre-BC artifacts through to a history of Buddhism in Japan, the rise of the Samurai caste and much more.
    There are several other buildings in the complex that I didn't have time to see. I'd like to come back when the weather cools. It's been 35 degrees, humid and breezeless for a couple of days. We're all suffering here 😥    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    1Home of the kid loving clown
    1Didn't go in, spared some poor young girl some foreign middle-aged creepiness

    Akihabara

    August 25, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 30 °C

    So I only brought 1 USB to micro USB cable with me. Why not go to the mecca of Japanese electronic stores and pick up a cable there? Not a difficult assignment using the Metro to get there. Found the cable I wanted and also picked up a Galaxy S8 phone cover. Took some video to show how big these stores are ( they adjoin the train station).
    Walked around the surrounding streets for some time, they're ideal for anyone interested in anime, video games, maid cafes and general cuteness. Saw young teens advertising "services" in schoolgirl outfits, this seems to be a national obsession.
    Had an iced mocha in Starbucks (yes, again!) just to beat the heat.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    1

    Mt Fuji

    August 29, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    So a group of 16 meet up at Tochomae metro to hike Mt Fuji. The tour is run by Fuji Mountain Guides with 4 young guys (3 Americans and a Brit) as tour guides. It takes a long time to exit Tokyo as we're on the road by 7am during peak commuting period.
    The hike starts at the Subishiri 5th station, which is 1950m above sea level. Our goal is to reach Fujisan lodge (3400m) by late afternoon. We'll have an early night there, then leave for the summit at 2:30 am.
    Being of a certain age, I've retired the backpack and bought modern luggage. So I've rented a backpack and 2 hiking poles from the guides. It's immediately apparent that I can't fit all my gear into this backpack, so my daypack comes along for the ride. It starts initially attached to the backpack but that's too awkward so it becomes a frontpack later in the day.
    It's surprisingly warm and humid at 2000 metres. I'm wearing long trekking pants and sweating profusely (like most of the others). There's a lot of fog around so the views are non-existent. The 1st photo shows this. It's at one of the stations where we can take a break, have a toilet stop and buy drinks.
    We eventually make it to the Fujisan lodge by 4pm. The 2nd photo shows its location above the cloud layer. The 3rd photo shows the track leading up to the lodge with hikers. So dinner is supplied and is a curry with rice. Filling and quite flavoursome.
    We're turning in around 7pm. We each have a supplied blanket and sleeping bag but are tightly packed together. So if I lay on my back and stuck my elbows out I would hit 2 people. Some people sleep but my immediate neighbours both snore so I while away the hours in quiet desperation.
    Finally it's 2:30 and time to trek upwards. We go single file and encounter wind and freezing rain. Turns out the waterproofing wax I bought for my boots isn't that great. Awesome time to find out. There are a lot of hikers after the same goal. We get to the summit and mill around trying to take cover from the wind and rain. It's very cloudy but suddenly the sun appears! The crowd goes "oooh" and a mad scramble ensues to take photos. 15 seconds later the clouds are back and the opportunity is lost! Only for a couple of minutes as magically the clouds roll away and the sun is revealed in awesome majesty. These are my last 3 photos, including the obligatory "summit selfie".
    Anyway it's not smart to linger at the summit so we trek back to Fujisan lodge for breakfast. Chicken with scrambled eggs, very tasty. Everything is packed away and we make our descent. This is the reason that parts of my body no longer talk to me. With the weight I'm carrying my knees and toes cop a pounding. The terrain is mostly scree but there are sections involving rocks that were challenging. Thank God for the hiking poles!
    Eventually I make it back to the starting point. Time for a drink, a bit of a rest and then I'm off to Gotenba in the van. And that's the end of my Mt Fuji adventure.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    My room before dinner
    1Bedding configured while I'm eating1Dinner night 1The massage service I used1Dinner night 2The ryokan at night

    Yamagishi Ryokan, Kawaguchiko

    August 29, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    So the bus from Gotenba deposited me at Kawaguchiko station. I'm still wearing my hiking gear (including boots) but it's 29 degrees here and I'm carrying around a dry bag and a day pack. I stop by the ryokan where I will be staying. Check in isn't until 3 but I can leave my dry bag there until I check in. My luggage has made it from Tokyo, huzzah!

    When I do check in I'm taken through the formalities of dinner and breakfast, both supplied for the duration. I show the staff my dietary requirements in Japanese which causes considerable angst. So a tip for you coeliacs out there: either don't stay at a ryokan or put up with the meals and avoid the obvious gluten traps.

    The first two photos show my room (529) before and after dinner. So bedding is prepared while I'm eating (3rd photo). No footwear is worn at dinner or in the room. There is a small landing next to my door and a shoe rack. There is a low table for meals, impossible for a middle aged caucasian such as myself to negotiate, and also a smaller but crucially higher table which is more suitable.

    Dinner time is either 6pm or 6:30. Breakfast is 7:30, 8 or 8:30. I've asked for the 6:30 dinnertime and 7:30 breakfast time. I find the breakfast not so suitable so will skip the last 2. It will now be the GF weetbix, some yoghurt, cheese, fruit and cold coffee. Breakfast of champions, what!

    The ryokan has an onsen (public bath) available at no charge to guests. I've been once but didn't feel greatly improved. I think the 35 minute in-room massage was more effective. The Mt Fuji hike has definitely taken it out of me!    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    1
    1Lake MotosuMt Fuji view from Lake Motosu

    Laundry Day!

    August 31, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    So I've rented a car from the local Toyota franchise. It is a Toyota Vitz compact car, so it's not fast but is easy to park (photo 1). The first task is to do some laundry as the Tokyo heat and Mt Fuji trek have severely stretched my clothing resources.
    The coin laundry is on a main road and should be easily accessible, yet Google Maps insists on using back streets. Or it's just me. Anyway I eventually find it and decide on a machine (2nd photo). I have bought detergent and manage to follow all the steps to start a 27 minute wash (with the help of Google Translate). Once that is done I load up a dryer for 50 minutes.
    While the clothes are drying I drive to a park at Katsuyama rest area on Lake Kawaguchiko. It's pretty and tranquil, so I sit on the grass, eat my lunch and watch young people throwing a baseball and kicking a soccer ball. Back at the laundry, my clothes are bone dry. Mission accomplished!
    Later in the afternoon I drive around Lake Motosu. It's beautiful, serene and very quiet. Good views of Mt Fuji from here. Last 3 photos.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Cable car return trip
    Picture 1 from Mitake-san1Picture 2 from Mitake-sanView from route 411

    Okutama

    September 1, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    So I've decided on a longish return drive to Okutama. I use Google Maps to navigate. It takes me along route 139. There are quite a few turns and many 30kmh zones. I take a pitstop at a rest area in Tsuru. It's extremely scenic past here with mountains, a river and multiple dams.
    As I progress to more remote terrain I hit a technical problem. Turns out my data SIM provider doesn't have coverage in this area so Google is gonski. Time to bone up on the car GPS system. It's not difficult as it supports destinations based on names or phone numbers (and is in English). Soon I'm back in the game.
    I eventually make it to Takimoto station. This is where I took the cable car up to Mitake-san, which is at 939 metres. The 1st photo is from the return trip as I had a good view down. At the top it's typically touristy but there are panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. I walk up a few trails before returning via the cable car to Takimoto.
    The car GPS selects route 411 for the return trip. I won't be back in Kawaguchiko until after 5 so I have limited stops. That's a pity as I cross a number of small and picturesque bridges which are well worth a photo. There's much less stress on this route. Eventually I turn on to route 137 which takes me back to the Ryokan.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Cable car at RV park
    Everyone wants a feedRV park near the pondFrom my hotel window in NaganoMy Teppanyaki menuTeppanyaki chef "makes fire"

    Towards Nagano

    September 2, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    It's 188 km from Kawaguchiko to Nagano, which is a long day's drive on the general roads. The mountains are a constant backdrop to the day even when I'm stuck in Saturday traffic. Plenty of 7-11 stores along the way for pitstops and stretching.
    Towards 10:30 I stop at a rest area which is an RV park. At first glance it's not impressive, but as I walk through it I warm to it greatly. There's a cable car and a pond with catfish and ducks, all jockeying for position should some scraps come their way. It would be a great lunch stop but it's sadly too early in the day. The first 3 photos come from this area.
    It's busy in the centre of Nagano when I cruise in. I end up parking in a multi-story car park, which takes ages as we have to wait for cars to exit first.
    My hotel room is typically small and has views to the south east (4th photo). I've looked online for Nagano restaurants and have found a Teppanyaki restaurant within 200 metres. It's menu is also online so I'm able to translate it.
    When I walk there I find there's a girlie bar next to the lift I am taking. Distracting. On the 9th floor the head waiter tells me it will take around 2 hours to go through all the courses. It actually takes 90 minutes. I'm really there for the 160 gms Australian beef but sit through the other courses. They present challenges as I dodge the croutons in the salad and try to work out how to eat a prawn with chopsticks. I end up just using my hands, which works for me. The chef gives me a cue for the photo ops, all in all a good night.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler

    Driving in Japan

    September 3, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Road rules are very similar to those in Australia, and it's definitely a plus that they also drive on the left side. That said, there are a few observations to be made.
    Roundabouts and one way streets. These don't seem to exist, although it's possible that I've gone the wrong way down a one way street. Unlikely as it would be signposted. I wonder what Japanese drivers make of roundabouts when they drive here?
    Road maintenance men. They are the matadors of the road, brandishing red flags to stop traffic and white flags with elaborate gestures for traffic to continue.
    Speeding. Everyone speeds outside of the cities. Some speed limits are definitely too low. If you want to drive at or under the speed limit, be prepared to be tailgated by a convoy. I drive to the conditions and see what other drivers are doing. There are speed cameras so I rely on their local knowledge.
    Rain. The roads don't seem to have adequate drainage so there are many MANY puddles when it rains. Large trucks coming the other way can create a tsunami that lands squarely on the windscreen.
    Road etiquette. Drivers are quite polite and unagressive. I haven't seen any road rage, I don't think it's in the national character. Quite a relief for me as they tend to be tolerant of my driving!
    Toll roads. These are prohibitively expensive, potentially 50AUD for 200 km. Fortunately both Google Maps and the car GPS support route editing to exclude toll roads. I inadvertently found myself on one the other day and I had to make a U-turn quite sharpish.
    Tunnels. If you're wanting to drive through scenic countryside, then you will encounter many tunnels. The longest I've driven through would be around 2km. How much money do they spend on infrastructure here?
    Hazard lights. Turn these on if you need to street park. Leave your car there as long as you like, even if you're blocking traffic.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Hakuba open garden
    Mountain view from Hakuba3Honda S660 roadster1

    Nagano to Kanazawa

    September 4, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    It's a long drive to Kanazawa today. Firstly the route takes me west to Hakuba, which is a popular ski resort, although quiet at this time of year. The first photo is of an Open Garden area there.
    The route then takes me north through Otari to Itoigawa on the Toyama Bay coast. Quite spectacular views of both mountains and coastline. I have video only of this.
    From here it's west past Toyoma to Kanazawa. Lots of traffic, some congestion and not much scenery. I take a photo of a Honda S660 roadster (for you Joe) which looks pretty cool.
    I reach Kanazawa and pass my hotel on the left. I strain my eyes looking for hotel parking but there are workmen outside the hotel so I park in a street lot. Around $7AUD for the day, which is much better than hotel rates. I move my car to the hotel tower park the next day. Basically my car goes into a lift which goes up and dispatches my car somewhere on a higher floor. Problematic if you want to grab anything out of the car later! When you ask for your car, the process is reversed and the car rotates on a carousel in the lift. So you can drive it out directly without reversing.
    Anyway I check into my room at Hotel Mystays. It's a double SMOKING room of an impressive size (last 2 photos) but the cigarette smell is overwhelming on first entry. A/C helps but the smell is in the pillowcase and towels. That's the only downside as the hotel has a small gym and a free laundry. I use both of course.
    It also offers room service so I order a grilled pork on rice and lettuce meal for around 8AUD. Very filling! This hotel is better at catering to international tourists than the others I've stayed at. Highly recommended as long as you book a non-smoking room!    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Kanazawa city view
    Green marshmallowsKaisekito Pagoda near Hisagoike pondBridge across Hisagoike pondAnother city view

    Kenrokuen Garden

    September 5, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Kanazawa was spared Allied bombing during WWII as it contained no military targets. It was the 2nd largest city in Japan (after Kyoto) to have that distinction.
    Kenrokuen Garden is one of the top 3 gardens in the country and has been designated as a national site of special scenic beauty. There are tourist buses that run clockwise and anti-clockwise around Kanazawa's cultural precinct so access is pretty easy. I spent close to an hour walking around the garden. It also offers panoramic views of the city. More catfish spotted, thankfully they're not the same size as those in South America (as seen on River Monsters, if you've never seen it do yourself a favour!)Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    My guide (Atsuko) and some guy who really needs a photo stunt double
    2Gyokusenin-maru GardenGyokusenin-maru Garden

    Kanazawa Castle Park

    September 5, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    So across the road from Kenrokuen Garden is the Castle Park. They offer a 30 minute guided English tour, which today is conducted for my benefit by Atsuko. She grew up in Kanazawa and studied Mathematics 20 years ago at the University when it was located in the Castle Park. Prior to then it was also used as army barracks. These days the Castle Park is heritage listed.
    So the Maeda family used to be the 2nd richest family in Japan after the Shogun himself. They built the castle in 1583 with elaborate defenses and considerable weaponry, but it was never attacked. Unfortunately parts of the castle were destroyed by fire in the past but some buildings have been reconstructed. The Ishikawamon Gate is the main gate and a highlight of the castle.
    Atsuko leaves me near the Gyokusenin-maru Garden. Originally it was attached to a villa built by the 3rd lord for the widow of the 2nd lord. The villa is long gone but the garden still remains.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Fog on the way to Ainokura
    Ainokura from a distance1Ainokura gassho-style houseMore gassho-style houses at AinokuraWorld Heritage Listing explanation1Green is the colour on the way to Shirakawa-go

    Ainokura and Shirakawa-go

    September 6, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    So the weather is a bit crook in Kanazawa today. Not much value in walking around the city so I decide to drive to Shirakawa-go.
    Along with Ainokura and Suganuma, Shirakawa-go is World Heritage listed because they contain gassho-style houses. Most of these houses are 100 to 200 years old but the oldest could be 400 years old.
    The houses have been built to withstand heavy snowfall with an alpine like shape and are built from local trees. No nails are used.
    I find that while it might not be raining on my drive, there is considerable fog. This gives an eerie look to some of the photos.
    I drop in to Ainokura village first. It costs 500 yen (6 AUD) to park and look around. There aren't too many other cars here so it's comfortable to browse around. I took a number of photos with eerie fog backgrounds.
    I drive through Suganuma and notice more gassho-style houses. By the time I get to Shirakawa-go it is later in the day. There are a horde of tourists here so I backtrack to Kanazawa, where it's still raining albeit quite lightly.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Goju-no-to pagoda (5 stories) at Myojoji
    Inside Sanko-do at MyojojiMyojoji temple pondAround Komaruyamajoshi ParkAround Komaruyamajoshi Park1Around Komaruyamajoshi Park

    Noto Peninsula

    September 7, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    So it's time to leave (currently wet) Kanazawa to go to Toyama. It's not much over 60km between the two cities. Since I have all day to get there, I plan to take the long way round by driving north up the West coast of the Noto peninsula, crossing over to the East coast of the peninsula then driving through to Toyama.
    It sort of turns out that way, but bear in mind that driving in Japan always takes longer than you expect. The weather is also a factor but not at first. The way north from Kanazawa takes me on to an expressway, which is easy driving but not scenic. No tolls in this area, thank goodness.
    I decide to visit Myojoji Temple on the way through. It was founded by the Buddhist Saint Nichizo in 1294. There is some rain so I've put on a rain jacket. The monk that sells me a ticket lends me an umbrella anyway and tells me to walk clockwise through the site, which includes a pagoda, hall, tomb, cemetery, pond and garden. I don't walk into the buildings as my shoes are muddy.
    From here the weather starts to deteriorate and I've lost network coverage. I cross over to a town called Nanao on the peninsula east coast. I park in the Nanao Art Museum car park and eat my lunch while it rains outside.
    I put on my waterproof gear and go for a walk in the rain. This takes me past an area called Komaruyamajoshi Park. It contains walking trails that go past a number of shrines (last 3 photos). Very pleasant, even in the rain.
    Eventually I go back to the car and head towards my hotel in Toyama. The rain becomes heavier for prolonged periods but thankfully has eased up by the time I get to the hotel.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    View of Kokorobe Bridge from the outbound train
    Power plant next to Unazuki damSelfie on the way to Meiken OnsenThe littlest hikerView of Kurobe river inbound2Monkey suspension bridge inbound near Unazuki (look closely)

    Kurobe Gorge

    September 9, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    This is what I hope will be a highlight of my first stint in Japan. People come for the day from far flung Tokyo and Kyoto. I'd prefer not to do this on the weekend but today's weather is near perfect, better than yesterday's.
    It turns out to be a long day as I leave the hotel at 7:30 and return a bit before 5pm. It is possible to get to Unazuki station (the starting point of the Kurobe Gorge train) by public transport but it's more convenient to drive.
    The route takes me ENE around Toyama Bay to Kurobe and then SSE into the mountains to Unazuki. I buy a ticket at 8:53 for the 9am train. There are 3 stations after Unazuki where one can stop. Tickets can be bought at each station. I decide to go to the last station (Keyakidaira) and am the last person to board the train. I'm sitting in the regular (ie. cheap) carriage, which is open to the elements and contains backless bench seats. There is some spray that comes through in the tunnels but that's all part of the adventure.
    The other people on the train are mostly families and elderly people. Most don't stray too far from the station when we disembark at Keyakidaira station. There are a couple of trails to onsen and open air hot baths that are close to the Babadani river. This river looks like it would be used to generate hydroelectric power. There is a strong smell of sulphur around the hot baths. It's a very warm day, last thing I need is a hot bath!
    Opposite the Meiken onsen across a bridge, I take my shirt off for a little while so it can dry out. There's noone around, I'm in the shade and there's a nice breeze. It seems appropriate somehow.
    Back at the station, I buy some lunch in the upstairs bistro. In the land of vending machines, I put in money and push lucky button #24 to order a beef curry. A ticket prints with the number 580 on it. This number will be called out when my meal is ready, which is a slight hitch as I don't know the Japanese number system. I take the approach of waiting to see if anyone picks up a meal after a number is called. This fortunately works!
    I buy a ticket for a brief stopover at Kinetsura station, which is the next station along. Then it's back to Unazuki in the cheap seats, then home!    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    On the way to Matsumoto
    3Buddhist shrine in a rest area on the way to MatsumotoRyokan Seifu-so (my digs for 2 nights)Matsumoto CastlePeriod costumes at Matsumoto CastleAshish, proprietor of Doon Sukodo Indoyama

    Matsumoto

    September 11, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    <rant>
    If you like wide streets and big 4WDs, don't come to Matsumoto. I'm staying in a place that is on the canal. It is on a narrow lane ("street" would be an exaggeration) that supports 2 way traffic along with cyclists and pedestrians. I will never complain about Brisbane cyclists again!
    I miss the turn off to my destination because the car GPS tells me to turn down what appears to be a footpath. It is actually navigable by car (if you hold your breath). As to the left turn at the end of this footpath, there could be pedestrians, cyclists and 2 way car traffic to contend with .
    </rant>
    Route 158 into Matsumoto is in part a narrow track through the mountains with a tree canopy, switchbacks and hairpin turns. The Kamikaze spirit lives on in the local motorists. Being a Sunday, there are many hikers out and about. Matsumoto is the most touristed town I've been in since Kawaguchiko and there are a number of other Westerners staying at the Ryokan, including a couple from Geelong.
    I visited Matsumoto-jo, which is the local castle and was built in the late 16th century (like the other castles I've visited). Must have been turbulent times. The castle tour entails walking/climbing up very steep stairs to the 6th floor keep. I'm always on guard for low beams!
    That evening I dine at an Indian popup eatery called Doon Shokudo Indoyama. It's a one man show owned and run by an expat Indian called Ashish. He has good reviews on Trip Advisor which appeals to the young Mittel European travellers that I see there. I have a chicken curry which he cooks while chatting. He has a brother in Orange (NSW) which surprises me.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    East Gardens layout at Imperial Palace, Tokyo
    Inside the East GardensInside the East Gardens1The capsule room on the 5th floor2Pod 510 (home sweet hole)2"What have I got myself into here"

    The Capsule Experience

    September 12, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    So I want to go from Matsumoto to Hokkaido. Rather than flying (which would be waaay too convenient) I've decided from the get go to take a bullet train to Sapporo, which is the Hokkaido major city.
    So I drive to Nagano, weather isn't great again, and drop off the car to the Toyota rental place there. Now I wheel my megaluggage to the train station (which is fortunately not far) and buy a shinkansen (bullet train) ticket to Tokyo via a vending machine. So far so good. It takes around 90 minutes to travel between Nagano and Tokyo. The leg room is surprisingly spacious in the seats, and there are no issues in reclining them. While it will always be quicker to fly, it is more convenient and comfortable to travel by shinkansen.
    Tokyo Station is huge as it services metro lines, shinkansen lines and regular JR (train) lines. I find the east exit as I want to drop my megaluggage at the Nishonbashi Bay Hotel. This gives me a couple of hours to wander around. It's good to be back in Tokyo! I haven't been around this area before so I walk to Chiyoda Park, which houses the Imperial Palace. Whilst that is off limits, it is free to walk through the East Gardens. They are substantial in their own right and deserve more time than I can give.
    Back at the hotel, I check in and am given a locker key and a floor card for pod 510. The locker isn't that big so my megaluggage will stay in storage on the 2nd floor. There is a guest lounge on the 2nd floor as well with a TV, powerpoints and the ubiquitous vending machines.
    I go out to eat at a local English-style pub called the Rose and Crown. I can sit at the bar and eat a meal there, which is tres convenient. I order the roast beef as it comes with vegetables (something I crave) and drink a couple of ginger highballs. The pub fills up while I'm there, mostly local workers letting off steam after work.
    Back at the hotel, the time eventually comes to take to the capsule. I'm conveniently 😣 on the top tier so I have to scale a ladder in and out. The capsule itself is reasonably spacious and has fan and light controls. It also has a light shade that pulls down and locks into place. While it is reasonably sound proof, you do hear people coming in and out of the capsule area. I think this is the reason that I wake up from time to time (and not the feeling that the walls are closing in). It's one of the things you try once, it only cost 57AUD and it's a valid stopover option.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler

    Tokyo to Sapporo

    September 13, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    So I have a ticket for a shinkansen to Hakodate, which is a southern town on the island of Hokkaido. I have 12 minutes there to transfer to a JR line train which will take me to Sapporo. All up I will be travelling for 7 3/4 hours. Bear in mind my Brisbane to Tokyo flight took 9 hours.

    My shinkansen leaves from Tokyo station at 8:20 am. The station is a tad busy at that time of the morning and steering my megaluggage through the worker horde is challenging. All the more so as I need to go to track 21 and the clock is ticking. I eventually find the escalator to the right track with under 5 minutes to spare. I've run up a bit of a sweat and my right hand is bleeding for some unknown reason. It's a jungle out there!

    On board the train I cool down and relax. It's a smooth ride through Northern Honshu, then underground to Hokkaido. I make the transfer OK with time to walk extra distance to use the escalator rather than hauling my luggage up the stairs. It's a bit after 4pm when the train pulls into Sapporo.

    There's been some rain during the day but not at the moment. I decide to wheel my megaluggage 2km to the hotel, not the only one doing this! Later on I ring Aunty Joan via Skype to wish her a happy 90th birthday. I tell her I'm in Sapporo but it takes a while for the penny to drop that I'm not in Australia. She's had a big day so blame that.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Sapporo TV Tower
    1View from the observatory at the top of Sapporo TV Tower1Cuteness in Sapporo TV TowerMy nemesis! In the greenhouse in Sapporo Botanical GardensOyster eatery in Odori Park2My rental car, a 4WD Toyota Vitz

    Sapporo

    September 14, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Owing to some dodgy planning on my behalf and a relative scarcity of available hotel rooms, I only have 1 day in Sapporo. I immediately realize my mistake as Sapporo is a happening place. It is also the easiest city to navigate as it uses a grid system. Very useful to someone like me with limited directional abilities (or none?)

    As it is autumn, Sapporo is in the middle of its autumn festival. This involves substantial food and drink in Odori Park, which stretches for many blocks. I have a guide map that tells me what is offered in each block of the park. But I've jumped ahead ...

    Firstly I stop for a coffee at Starbucks (what, again?! You should buy shares in the company blah blah blah I'm not listening). Quick quiz: how many Starbucks are there in the 2km between the train station and my hotel? Answer: 5 (seriously). I then pick up stacks of tourist info (in English!) from the tourist info place at the station.

    Given my limited time, I choose to range around the inner city. Firstly I walk to the TV Tower (1st photo) and visit the observatory at the top. Panoramic views over much of Hokkaido, the 2nd photo is just a sample.

    I then walk through Odori Park, taking in the atmosphere as many people have gathered to eat and drink. I deviate from the park to wander through the Botanical Gardens. In the greenhouse I spy a familiar palm tree and suppress my natural instinct to cut it down (impractical as I only have a Swiss Army knife).

    Finally it's time to eat and I choose a combo platter of lamb chop and 3 prawns. I make a decent fist of the chop with chopsticks, not so much the prawns. Continuing the seafood theme, I buy a plate of grilled oysters (5th photo) and find they're not too bad.

    I was meant to rent a car at 10am but it's closer to 2:30 by the time I reach Toyota car rental (which coincidentally adjoins the hotel where I stayed). Problems setting up the Bluetooth pairing, but that will have to wait. Time to hit the open road again!    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    The Kiroro Tribute Portfolio Hotel
    2My hotel room #5701On the way to Otamanbe (South East coast)1West coast wind farmWest coast mountain backdropWest coast mountain backdrop

    South West Hokkaido Day 1

    September 15, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    My accommodation from September 14 to 18 is the Kiroro Tribute Portfolio Hotel (1st photo) where I stayed in room #5701 (2nd photo). This place is a resort that is heavily geared towards winter, what with the Kiroro ski fields up the road. It is also in the middle of nowhere so dining options are somewhat limited.

    First day there I drive down the east coast to Otamanbe, where I post a postcard to my Dad. The ladies running the post office are baffled by my appearance there. I leave them with the conundrum of how to place the stamps on the postcard without obscuring my text. I love messing with their heads! At the beach the country's love of plastic manifests itself in debris brought in by the tide.

    I drive further down the coast to Yakumo, visiting the Panoramic Park there, before heading back to the hotel. I decide to use the new car's GPS to set the route. All's well until the car instructs me to turn left off route 5 onto route 9. OK, I'll bite even though the route is 90 degrees to where I want to go. We then turn onto route 229 and continue on. After a while I notice a wind farm in the distance. What I don't see is any scenery to the west of me. It couldn't be ... but a couple of minutes later my worst fears are realized as I see the sea. So I've driven from the south east coast to the west coast! Which basically has circled around where I'm staying.

    The story has a happy ending as my car GPS does (eventually) navigate back to the hotel rather than just aimlessly taking me around the countryside until the car runs out of petrol and I die. To be fair, the west coast scenery is more majestic and there are many tunnels through the mountains. The last 3 photos show some of that scenery.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    Kiroro Gondola view from start
    Kiroro Gondola view from higher upView from top of Kiroro Gondola1Panoramic view of Otaru #11Panoramic view of Otaru #22Otaru Canal

    Kiroro Gondola and Otaru

    September 16, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    It's the weekend and you all know what THAT means ... yep, Japan's weekend warriors hit (ie. clog up) the road with a vengeance.

    With this in mind, I decide to minimize my travel by heading up the road to the Kiroro winter sports park. 1500 yen (17 AUD) buys me a round trip ticket on the Kiroro Gondola. It's quite a nice day and the views from the gondola are excellent, as the first 3 photos show. There aren't too many people around. I start a hike to Mt Yoichi but have to turn back because I HAVE BROUGHT THE WRONG FOOTWEAR. The trail is quite muddy and my hiking boots are in the frigging car 😣. Never mind, I think to myself, I'll do it tomorrow ... but of course the gondola is closed the next day due to excessive wind (insert coeliac joke here).

    So I decide to drive to Otaru which is due north on the coast. There is a panoramic view of the town coming down from the highlands - see photos. Being a Saturday it is really difficult to find parking, I'm in a queue for around 10 minutes. Walk to the canal which passes for a tourist attraction here.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler

    Pop Buffet Restaurant

    September 17, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    On checkin to the Kiroro Tribute Hotel, I was asked if I would support a "save the planet" initiative by not having towels changed, bed linen changed etc for the duration of my stay. For this I was given 1000 yen (11-12 AUD) discount vouchers for dinner at the resort's restaurants. Sounded like a sweet deal so I was in 😚

    Which is actually restaurant singular as it is out of season. As my accommodation included breakfast, I had 4 breakfasts and 2 dinners at the Pop Buffet.

    I love a good buffet and Pop's breakfast buffet comprised both Japanese and Western elements. Day 1, I tried some of both but by Day 4 I had settled on boiled eggs, scrambled egg, ham, bacon and tomato followed by a banana and a bowl of fruit compote covered with yoghurt. And coffee, glorious coffee with multiple refills. Fill yer boots, son!

    Dinners had a set charge of 4000 yen (46 AUD) although my vouchers saved me 1/4. First dinner I ordered a glass of plum wine, which comes in a spirits glass with ice. Its taste was reminiscent of cough medicine I've tried in the past ... not necessarily a bad thing. 2nd dinner I ordered a bottle of saki. As it is a clear spirit it left no hangover. I quite enjoyed it.

    The dinner buffet took pride in offering Hokkaido specialities. I found the wasabi octopus quite challenging but made it through by channelling the Mt Fuji spirit. I enjoyed the "Genghis Khan" mutton, which is grilled, but my favourite was the Soup Curry. Basically you put vegetables such as broccoli, potato, carrot etc and meat or seafood into a bowl. You then ladle in the soup curry and add extra spices to taste. And you can add rice as you go! Super filling.

    Lots of nice pastries and cakes for dessert, all with gluten but I found the buffet was enough anyway. Wouldn't do it every night but well worth the money.

    NO PHOTOS.    Read more

  • Tim In JapanJapan 1Traveler
    On the way to Asahikawa
    Lavi Soup Curry restaurant (the best)3Mucking around2Mucking around

    Typhoon Talim

    September 18, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The weather starts to deteriorate on Sep 17, so I restrict myself to short local hikes around the hotel. On the web I find that typhoon Talim has hit the southern parts of Japan with a lot of rain, and even Hokkaido can expect much rain on the 18th. Oh joy!

    I am staying in Asahikawa on the 18th and I'd hoped to pass through the towns of Furano and Biei on the way there. Unfortunately the weather is bleak most of the day so those plans are scuppered. I am wearing board shorts and thongs for the drive, which with my rain jacket makes me sort of weather proof.

    The wind really picks up in the central plain of Hokkaido between Takikawa and Asahikawa. Probably influenced by the mountains to the east.

    Asahikawa has a population of around 350,000 people, making it the 2nd largest city in Hokkaido after Sapporo. I'm staying at the JR Inn, which is right next to the train station. In fact, the hotel is part of the Aeon Mall complex, which comprises speciality stores (including a supermarket) and food court on the first floor, restaurants on 4F and the hotel on 5F. Note that in Japan there is no ground floor, so you normally walk in to 1F.

    All this is very handy as I can buy food without venturing outside. However, after driving all day I need some exercise so I run the weather gauntlet by walking in a local park. The city looks well set up as far as parks and tourism are concerned. It's surprising that the city is considered to be a gateway to other attractions rather than an attraction in its own right (like Brisbane I suppose).

    For dinner I select Lavi Soup Curry on level 4F (see 2nd photo). I have a braised pork soup curry with rice and drink a mango lassi. It is probably the most filling meal I've enjoyed in Japan. For less than 25 AUD.

    I also stock up on supplies at the supermarket, including a bottle of Furano wine (reasonably local to the area). Nothing better than donning hotel pyjamas and sipping on a cheeky red (3rd and 4th photos, taken BEFORE drinking).    Read more

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