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  • Day 17

    dolmans of Antequera-drive

    May 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    on the road at the early time of almost noon and it is 31 degrees according to the car. tried to rest the foot a bit and leave it open to the air in the am. also a good chance to catch up on posts. we are heading to the Dolmans of Antequerra. it's just over an hour away. intersting drive. Lots of olives in the fields and I think there may be almonds too. we saw almonds at the museum-Archaeological Dolmens of Antequera-. On getting closer to Antequerra we saw what looked like tour busses parked in the fields. We wondered what they were doing, but on closer inspection it was the buses for the workers in the fields who were harvesting onions. you could small the pungent smell of the onions and see the white bulbs. There were fields of corn and I think sunflowers being irrigated by the same types of overhead sprinklers they use at home. lots of beautiful rock formations all tend to be sloping up like a mesa and then huge drop offs along the sides. lots of caves. there are also towers on the tops of some of the high points. not sure which era they are from.. some are listed as Torre of ...on Google maps.Read more

  • Day 16

    paella then drive Mirador La Hoya

    May 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    after dinner I wanted to go back to the west side of ronda for the sunset. I would have preferred to walk but I now have yet another blister on my foot so we decided to drive. we got onto the same road we had walked down yesterday ctra las molinos but it was so busy due to the fair ronda romantics that we decided after we had stopped at the Mirador La Hoya Del Tajo (Lookout Point) did some birding and took our sunset pic that we would return going around the north side. it was a very very narrow road. lots of farms in this depression in front of the huge sandstone that ronda sits on. you have to go up and through a cleft in the rock to get back onto the road that we had taken earlier in the day to get to the cave pileta (road a374) it was a bit nerve racking but we made it. Google had us follow something that took you above a374 luckily we didnt follow Google. itbis very much like a sloping mesa as you go through the cleft on the north west side. we saw eurasian goldfinch, stone chat and lots of swallows in the meadow at the lookout point. the stone chat is a black headed bird with a red breast and white shoulder neck area. he sits on the tall stalks perching then hovers over his prey, catapillers and dragonfly the returns to his perch. there were quit a lot of them. rough guide says there are eurasian crag Martin's also here and I suspect what I thought were swallows may have been these ones too.Read more

  • Day 16

    river walk

    May 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    the tour of the caves was 2 hours. we had our lunch up there after under the shade of some trees on the path. I though I nay have seen a brown deer like animal across the way on the limestone but not sure. after we went to this tiny hamlet of estacion de jimera de libar. I had hoped the walk in the andalucia book was in the shade but it was not. it s 32 degrees and probably the hottest part of the day. we saw a path in the shade on the other side of the river and we had passed a bridge so we backtracked but the bridge did not go over the river only over the train tracks. this walk was a bit cooler but by now we were cranky and colin was concerned we wouldn't be back in time to make dinner so we walked under the train tracks in the village and back to the car. the team did go by us just after 1600 so it would be possible to do this walk 7 km starting at benaijan the next village and taking the train back as recommended in the book. but not for us today, it was too late when we started and we were at the wrong end.Read more

  • Day 16

    cueva la pileta

    May 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    we have reservations for the 1300 English tour of these prehistoric caves. pileta is a Roman pool. these caves were discovered in 1904 by a local farmer Jose bullon Lobato when he noticed thousand of bats 18,000 coming out of the caves in the eve. he was after the guano to fertilize his olive trees. eventually a French anthropologist visited in 1912 and the caves have been well known ever since. the original farming family who discovered it are still the caretakers and visits are restricted to 20 per visit and maybe 5 tours a day. there was a bus on this narrow winding road ahead of us and we wondered if they were heading to the cave...they were it was a bus full of school kids. the caves are 15 degrees and humid. there are rails and you have a light between 2 people. you have to be careful as the stairs are very slippery but what a magical place. there are stalagmites that grow up at a rate of 1 cm every 100 yrs and stalacites, drapery that hang down. there are drip stones cascading down. the mountain is limestone and calcium carbonate is the mineral that precipitates out to form these structures. there is iron in some of them causing a red/brown colour, black in others from manganese. there is also black caused by black smoke of the prehistoric inhabitants. the 1755 earthquake caused some of these stalacites to break off. the paleo art dates from at least 30,000 yrs ago. there is ongoing dating research verifying the dates using both carbon 14 methods and uranium. a Quebec university is involved and took samples 3 weeks ago. they take the pigment from the paints to check when that pigment was created. animal fat is used as a binder. ochre for red, black is used later in neolithic period , and I'm not sure what the brown pigment was. they would actually clear a space on the walk to create a canvas to create their images. many images of horses, goats and even fish in paleo. considering we are a bit away from the ocean this is interesting. there has been a bit of rope found. I wondered how they got into these caves as there are many off shoots. there is also evidence of them using oyster shells as a type of candle.
    there is both paleolithic 30,000 yrs with the red paintings and then neolithic with black paintings and more black lines they think to make lunar calendars. there was also a birdman.....very similar to ones we have seen at writing on stone and at mesa verde.
    there are pottery shards from bronze or copper age, and stone mills similar to what we saw in mexico...so maybe in the early agriculture era. our guide said the earliest inhabitants paleo were probably an extended family group of 40 people the later groups were only around 11. they calculate this based in excrement analysis and charcoal from the hearths. there was one point where the guide 'played' the stalacite. and it had a beautiful harmonic sound depending on where the fingers tapped. early paleo music??? this spot was opposite a pic of a stick man with a bow and arrow so neolithic at least. the next hall, the hall of fishes he had had us all turnout the lights for 10 sec and be perfectly quiet. it was so quiet. I dont know how they would have found their way if their candles went out...the guide also stamped his foot on the floor....after the lamps were back on and the echo was amazing. like a big base drum. under this hall of the fishes that is open to the public there is another cave that descends down 40m called the big pothole. these areas are under study and they have found skeletal remains. the skeletal remains are 5.000 yrs old for human and there are also animal bones. The walkway in was built in 1941 by the son of the discovered Tomas did with just a hammer and chisel. there are no photos in the caves, just the torchlight of the guide to illuminate the images.
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  • Day 15

    dinner at el campillo

    May 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    we walk up the same path we did the night before, but this time in dusk. we get to the top and el campillo is the restaurant right there so we sit down and eat. we had passed 3 English ladies asking where the gates were on our way up. As we are finishing our meals they will come back up and will have a drink at this same restaurant. they are keen travelers so good conversation with them. I had the biggest leg of baby goat, it was good but enormous and colin had the Iberia sirloin pork also very good. my water in the beautiful blue bottle cost the same as Colin's beer! this restaurant is on the plaza maria auxiladaria and has a lovely sunset view. after dinner on our way back to the car we will pass an old mineratre- minarete de san sebastian which was converted to the belfry of san sebastian church. tbe church is no longer there but the mineratte still stands. we found our way to the puerta de filipe v gate and over the upper bridge-puenta virgo through the padre jesus neighborhood which is now very quiet and back to the car.Read more

  • Day 15

    lower walls

    May 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    it is windy after the concert so we head back to the car to get our sweaters. we want to go back to the west side of ronda where we were last night at the Puente del viente or windy gate to catch the sunset from tbe next gate which was arco del Cristo. we take the lower arab bridge on the east side and walk the lower walls. we end up on a steep set of stairs going up close.to iglesia del esliatus santo- the holy spirit church. it is of brown ashlar masonary built on top of an old mosque in gothic renaissance style. we pass iglesia ma auxilliadora.- shrine of Mary Helper of Christians, the beautiful large white and yellow church built on the highest point in Ronda. now we find another set of steep stairs these ones going down to calla del prado nuevo which will turn into ctra de los molinos. this is the road that connects o the path going to the puente del viento gate and then down to the arco del cristo.Read more

  • Day 15

    casa don bosco- spanish guitar

    May 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    we got tix for the Spanish guitar concert by Paco Seco, recomended by Rick steeves. it was in the Casa muse don bosco. built in 1850 and remodeled. it was used as an orphanage after the original family died with no descendants. it was run by a religious order. there are a lot of religious paintings about. the gardens were beautiful with a lot if tile work overlooking the gorge. this was the house and patio with the painted urns, we saw from the other side the night before. lots of white flowers, Rose's lilies a huge wisteria. the concert was magnificent. he played both classical guitar, andalusian folk and flamenco. The dexterity if his fingering was amazing. he is on spotify!Read more

  • Day 15

    off to the museum

    May 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    we were trying to find the municipal museum as it has a good archeology section, but we were having a hard time finding it. we ended up back in the plaza maria auxiliadoe where we had walked down last night. no worries there was a nice Spanish guitarist playing so we just sat and listened and ate more cookies. eventually we did find the museum in the Palacio de mondragon- it was a moorish palace at one time, today it is the municipal museum.there are 3 architectural styles: mudejar style patio, the castilian style patio, portico and wood beams, works done in the 17th century and then the entrance patio also from the 17th century and remodeled in 18th this was the one with the red arches. . there was a lot of written info on the prehistoric and caves in the area....there are a lot of caves. some nice recreations or dioramas and a few artifacts. the patio courtyard is a part of the building from the moorish times.Read more

  • Day 15

    heavenly cookies

    May 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    we made it to plaza duquesa de parcent. lots going on in square in preparation for a weekend festival. there is the old iglesia de santa maria la mayor church, brown colour. this amazing lilac scented tree on the way to the plaza and the convento de santa isobel where we buzzed , the nun opened the door and we paid 8 e for 500g of cookies....they were light and airy and very tasty....Read more

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