Amman

Stayed at the Khan Khediwe Hotel. Perfectly located in downtown and walking distance to the old downtown, Roman Theatre and Jordan Museum. Hotel is new and very comfortable.

Amman is interesting. First impressions are that it is dirty and run down and it is, but at the same time it is pretty exciting. If you want adventure, just be a pedestrian here. Sidewalks are non-existent or broken and the only thing rarer than pedestrian crossings are unicorns. Crossing the street is a game of stepping in front of a car and daring it to hit you.

The city is built on seven hills (Question: Why do these ancient cities always have SEVEN hills - Rome, Istanbul, Amman, Jerusalem?) and they are pretty serious. Streets go back and forth in switchbacks and houses are terraced up cliffs.

Everywhere downtown including the alleys either side of the hotel is one giant street market. Unlike some of the bazaars in Istanbul, these are not for tourists. Seems that sometimes for a block or two all the shops are in the same sector. All shoes, then small appliances, or fans, or tools and hardware. Locals just know where to head to do the shopping.

Had dinner at a takeaway joint up a back lane a block from the hotel (convenience was more important to me than Michelin stars). I noticed a staircase at the back and went up to find a dining room of plastic furniture. Ordered from the menu a lamb with vegetable stew. Came with a big pita and it was a fantastic flavour. With a bottle of water bill was 3.50 JD. Beat the iced tea on Rainbow Street for value.

Very short visit of course, with Day 1 being the main walking tour as shown on the map. I just did what is called 'downtown' and did not get out to the mosques and museums that are recommended. Weather was mostly clear and warm and a moderate 13,176 steps walked.

Day 2 was morning only as I was headed to pick up the rental car at noon, so a short walk to the Jordan Museum and back.Read more